Chapter 1 FINAL

C HAP T E R O N E
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
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GST R 133004424
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION

Clothing has existed since prehistoric times. Why do

people wear clothes?
Protection
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
Status
Modesty
Decoration
3

Decoration seems to be the most basic motivation for

dress.
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
4
Type of dress worn may be limited by:

Function: Style must permit required activities
Availability of materials.
Filipino
Southern
women
Russian
weaving
Slavshats
preparing
from bamboo
hemp fibers.
fibers.
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
5
Dress can be divided between draped and tailored

clothing.
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INTRODUCTION
6
Draped clothing is made from woven lengths of cloth, loosely

fitted, good for warm climates.
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INTRODUCTION
7
Tailored clothing is cut and sewn, is close-fitting, and is

good for cool climates.
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INTRODUCTION
8
There are also clothes that combine draping and

tailoring.
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
9
Technology limits or expands

options
Made by
hand
Mechanize
d
Powered
by
electricity
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INTRODUCTION
10
Social mores and customs may limit or expand clothing

choices
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INTRODUCTION
11
In the study of historic costume, there

are underlying themes related to dress
A theme is a recurring
or unifying subject or
idea. (Webster 1988)
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INTRODUCTION
12
Some themes that appear

throughout the study of the
history of dress include:
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INTRODUCTION
13
Social Life,
Social Class
Structure, and
Social Roles,
Including Those
Related to
Gender
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INTRODUCTION
14
Changes and/or patterns in social

behaviorwhat we might refer to
as lifestyles
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INTRODUCTION
15
The function of dress in the

social context can include:
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INTRODUCTION
16
Designation of gender differences
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INTRODUCTION
17
Designation of status
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INTRODUCTION
18
Identification of group membership
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INTRODUCTION
19
Ceremonial use of clothing
President Grover Clevelands wedding as reproduced in Harpers Weekly
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INTRODUCTION
20
Certain themes grow out of the

historical context, such as:
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INTRODUCTION
21
Politics:
Leaders as Style
Setters
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INTRODUCTION
22
Politics:
c. 1250
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INTRODUCTION
War and Conflict as Style

Setters
c. 1370
c. 1580
23
Economics:
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INTRODUCTION
The trade of textiles and

apparel
24
Technology: The production of textiles

and apparel
Massachusetts Textile Mill Worker

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INTRODUCTION

25
Communication:
The dissemination of
styles
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INTRODUCTION
26
CROSS-CULTURAL INFLUENCES IN DRESS
As cultures come into contact, there is a

reciprocal exchange of new ideas, resulting in
styles that are MIXTURES, and a process called
CULTURAL AUTHENTICATION
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INTRODUCTION
27
Mixtures are styles that incorporate components from several

cultures
The cheongsam combines traditional elements with Western cut

and fit.
28
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION

Cultural Authentication is the process whereby

elements of dress of one culture are incorporated into the
dress of another. Usually the culturally authenticated
style is changed in some way. Only rarely are entire
garments adopted. Erekosima and Eicher (1981)
Dashiki
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INTRODUCTION
29
Geographic location, the natural environment, and

ecology (the relationship of humans to their physical
environment) may emerge as themes that are
evident in dress.
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INTRODUCTION
30
Clothing is considered by some to be an art form
Isabella Clara Eugenia, Infanta of Spain, Duchess of Austria and Burgundy, Princess of
Belgium.
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INTRODUCTION

31
As an art form, it can be said to

grow out of the ZEITGEIST.
Zeitgeist, a German word, describes the complex

mixture of social, psychological, and aesthetic
factors often called the spirit of the times.
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INTRODUCTION
32
Influenced by the Zeitgeist or spirit of the times,

different art forms from the same era may display
similar qualities.
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INTRODUCTION
33
Themes related to clothing

as an art form include:
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION

The relationship
between costume of a
particular era and
developments in the
fine and applied arts.
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
35
Individual artists
and designers,
such as Gabrielle
Chanel,
contribute to the
view of costume
as art.
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
36
Revival of interest in earlier styles
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INTRODUCTION
37
Where does fashion fit into this

exploration of dress?
What is Fashion?
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INTRODUCTION
38
Fashion is a taste shared by many for

a short period of time.
Fashion is evident in many aspects of life.

CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
39
A complex technological system has

developed in the modern world that
facilitates:
Design
Manufacture
Distribution
Thereby making it possible for
men and women of all
incomes to follow current
fashions
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INTRODUCTION

40
Technology: Design Development

Line Creation
Line Development
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INTRODUCTION
41
Technology: Systems for Manufacturing Apparel
Pattern design
Marker making
Fabric cutting
Control of work-in-process
Control of sewing machines
Warehousing and selection
Electronic data interchange
Computerized printing
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INTRODUCTION
42
Technology: Distribution and Communication
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CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION

43
For Further Study

Pre-historic Clothing
Pre-historic Exeter:
http://pub2.exeter.gov.uk/timetrail/01_prehistoric/growth.asp
Clothing Worn By the Ice Man:
http://mr_sedivy.tripod.com/iceman4.html
Abstract Of Paper On Cultural Authentication
http://www.textilesociety.org/abstracts_2004/torntore.htm
Resources And Links On Folk Costume
http://www.costumes.org/ethnic/1PAGES/ETHNOLNK.HTM
Fashion:
http://www.fashion-era.com/sociology_semiotics.htm
Further Reading:
Eicher, Joanne B., and Barbara Sumberg. 1995. World Fashion, Ethnic, and
National Dress. In Dress and Ethnicity: Change across Space and Time,
edited by J. Eicher, 295-306. Oxford: Berg.
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
44
Image Credits
Image of tattoo shirt, courtesy of www.bewild.com
Image of the Leno Loom, courtesy of www.sofcon.cz
Image of Tatting Lace, courtesy of www.fundysights.ca
Image of Jackie Kennedy, c. 1960, courtesy of www.imperialclub.com
Dashiki, courtesy of www.vintage70sclothing.com
Various images in this chapter courtesy of www.clipart.com
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
45

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C HAP T E R O N E

Click anywhere in the slide to view the next

2010 Fairchild Books,

2010 Fairchild Books,

Clothing has existed since prehistoric times. Why do

2010 Fairchild Books,

Decoration seems to be the most basic motivation for

Type of dress worn may be limited by:

Dress can be divided between draped and tailored

Draped clothing is made from woven lengths of cloth, loosely

Tailored clothing is cut and sewn, is close-fitting, and is

There are also clothes that combine draping and

Technology limits or expands

Social mores and customs may limit or expand clothing

In the study of historic costume, there

Some themes that appear

Changes and/or patterns in social

The function of dress in the

Designation of gender differences

Identification of group membership

Ceremonial use of clothing

President Grover Clevelands wedding as reproduced in Harpers Weekly

Certain themes grow out of the

War and Conflict as Style

The trade of textiles and

Technology: The production of textiles

Massachusetts Textile Mill Worker

2010 Fairchild Books,

CROSS-CULTURAL INFLUENCES IN DRESS

As cultures come into contact, there is a

Mixtures are styles that incorporate components from several

The cheongsam combines traditional elements with Western cut

2010 Fairchild Books,

Cultural Authentication is the process whereby

Geographic location, the natural environment, and

Clothing is considered by some to be an art form

2010 Fairchild Books,

As an art form, it can be said to

Zeitgeist, a German word, describes the complex

Influenced by the Zeitgeist or spirit of the times,

Themes related to clothing

2010 Fairchild Books,

Revival of interest in earlier styles

Where does fashion fit into this

Fashion is a taste shared by many for

Fashion is evident in many aspects of life.

A complex technological system has

2010 Fairchild Books,

Technology: Design Development

Technology: Systems for Manufacturing Apparel

Technology: Distribution and Communication

Click on the @ button to view live feed from QVC.

2010 Fairchild Books,

For Further Study

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