FUSING MACHINE

SEWN PRODUCTS MACHINERY AND

EQUIPMENTS
BACHELOR IN FASHION
TECHNOLOGY , SEMESTER IV
National Institute of Fashion Technology,
Gandhinagar

Presented ToJury

Presented ByAkshita
Sabharwal(GAN13AP13)

Content
1. Methods of Joining Materials
2. Why Fusing?
3. What is Fusible Interlining?
4. Technology of Fusing Press
5. Fusing Press
6. Evolution
7. Fusing Equipment
(Hand iron, Steam Presses, Flat-Bed Presses, Carousel,
Spot Welder, Stackers, Continuous Fusing Presses)
8. New Developments
(High Frequency Fusing Press, Direct Stabilization)

Content
9. How to choose the right fusing machine?
10.Accessories of a Fusing Machine
(Base Frame, Support for Creasing Devices, Unwinding
and Winding device, Automatic Lay-Up Stacker,
Unloading Slide)
11.Feeding System
12.Quality Control
13.Brands manufacturing fusing machines
14.Use of Fusibles for Mass-Produced Clothes
15. References

Methods of Joining Materials

Dominant process in the assembly of garments is
sewing.
Processes have been developed as alternatives to
sewing which change the way garments are designed,
constructed and assembled.
Those to be considered are:
1. fusing,
2. welding and adhesives,
3. moulding.

Why Fusing?
Fusing is an established routine process for attaching
interlinings.

Not all garment fabrics can be fused, and there will

always be some situations where sew-in interlinings
continue to be used, but in the vast majority of
garment making today, fusing is the more common
process. The reasons are both economic and technical.

What is Fusible Interlining?

The fusible interlining consists of a base cloth, and
carries on its surface a thermoplastic adhesive resin,
usually in the form of small dots, which will melt when
heated to a specic temperature.

Interlining

Fusible
Woven
Non-Woven
Knitted

Non-Fusible

Skirt Waistband with Slotted interlining

(When fused to the waistband and sewn to a skirt along one line of slots, the
band will fold more easily in the correct positions to give the correct width.)

Technology of Fusing
Process
The technology of Fusing Process demands a specic
combination of the following parameters:
(a) The fusing method

Single Fusing, Reverse Fusing, Sandwich Fusing, Double

Fusing, Top Fusing

(b) The fusing machine ; and

Flat-bed Press, Continuous Operation

(c) The components of fusing

Temperature, Time, Pressure, Cooling

Fusing Press
Presses basically fall into two categories, with different
modes of operation.
(a) Assemblies are either fused on a flat bed in a static
situation, or
(b) Conveyed continuously through a press in which they
are heated, fused and cooled without stopping.
All presses can be described as flat-bed or
continuous, irrespective of their size or complexity.

Evolution
Discovery of Nylon
in 1938, the 1st
synthetic bre

Need to develop
different
interlinings
Fusible interlining

Fro
Ma m P
ch lon
ine ke
to r an
Fu
sin d Pa
g M dd
ac ing
hin
e

(When Buckram
was widely used as
Interlining)

Fusing Equipment

Hand Iron
Only those interlinings that can be fused at relatively
low temperatures, low pressures and in relatively short
times are suitable for fusing by hand iron.
Limitations:
1.
2.
3.
4.

Temperature at glue line not known.

Pressure application is not uniform.
Time element completely dependent on operator.
Only small parts can be fused with any degree of
success by application of pressure by iron for a xed
time on to the fusible, covering the area step by step
and using steam to help the heat transfer.
5. Delamination may occur.

Steam Presses
Steam Presses with shaped bucks are not designed as
fusing presses but have been, and still are, used for fusing.
Limitations
1. Restricted in Temperature.
2. Press temperature is dependent onSteam Pressure, Steam Dryness, Pipe Insulation, and number of
presses drawing steam from the same line.
3. Pressure applied over full buck area is uneven.
4. Excessive shrinkage of top cloth may occur.
5. Resin may replasticize, leading to delamination.
6. Time element completely dependent on operator.

Flat-bed Presses
These consist of padded top and bottom bucks, with
heating elements in one or both of the bucks.
Bottom buck is static while top buck can be moved
vertically in order to open or close the press.
Advantage:
Fabric shrinkage is reduced since the fabric is held
under pressure throughout the fusing cycle.
Machine takes less space.

Disadvantage:
Tendency to crush pile fabrics such as velvet.
Pressure application may not be even with scissor-type
machine.

Flat bed fusing presses. (i) Vertical action. (ii) Scissor action.

Assembly made
on press tray or
brought to tray
pre-prepared

Tray pushed to
its fusing position

Fusing
cycle
complete

Tray manually
removed or
automatically
rejected.

Working of Machinery with Single Tray System

Flat-bed Presses
Single Tray Systems

Twin Tray Systems

Both are tted with device that automatically causes non-stick fabric
to roll over unfused assemblies as tray moves towards fusing area
(This fabric ensures fusibles are held in position).

Flat-bed Presses
Single Tray Systems

Twin Tray Systems

Types of Flat-bed press

Carousel (Flat-bed Press)

Another type of flat-bed
press is incorporated
into a carousel by using
three trays that
successively move
through loading, fusing,
and cooling stations.
Generally used for top
fusing of shirt and
blouse collars.

Spot Welder (Flat-bed Press)

Spot Welder

Used in conjunction with top-fusing method.

Stackers (Flat-bed Press)

Positioning the
Fusible

Assembly falls
onto lower buck

Fusing and
Preparation

Stacking

Such a flat-bed press is used for fusing bundles without

disturbing the bundle formation and incorporates two
moving bucks. It enables the operator to prepare the next
assembly while previous one is being fused.

Flat-bed Presses
Some general observations regarding flat bed presses follow:
(a) Pressure
Even application of correct pressure is necessary for efficient
fusing.
(b) Cladding
Its primary function is to compensate for small irregularities
in the metal platen. Perforated Silicon-rubber padding is the
most suitable material for this purpose, although initial cost is
high.
(c) Suitability of Purpose
The right machine for the right job.

Continuous Fusing Presses

Based on same principle whereby the unit for fusing is
transported through the fusing processes by means of
a powered conveyor belt.
These machines are mostly examined for
(a) Conveyor Type (End-to-end feed or return feed)
(b)Cover Belts
(c) Heating (Heating Plates or Cylinder Heating)
(d)Pressure
(e) Cooling (Air or Water)
(f) Take-off Systems (Manual or Mechanical)

Continuous Fusing Presses

Advantages:
Reduce any problems associated with fusing pile fabrics
such as velvet.
More operators can work on the same machine.
When Continuous work is to be done like fusing
waistbands.

Disadvantages:
Machine takes large amount of space.
Fabrics prone to heat shrinkage are likely to shrink more.

Conveyer Type
Conveyer Type
End-to-end
feed

Return Feed

Return Feed

 Materials
PTFE-(PolyTetraFluoroEthylene)
coated
and/or
laminated Fibreglass
Aramid Fabrics
Antistatic Single ply or Double ply, of thicknesses
0.25mm, 0.29mm, 0.30mm, 0.35mm, 0.48mm.
0.49mm etc.
Manufacturers
Fiblon Korea, Grundler, Hashima , Macpi Italy,
Meyer Germany, Oshima Japan, Veit etc.

Cover Belt

The conveyor system is two belts, one upper and one lower,
where the lower belt is the actual conveyor of the cloth and
fusibles.
Function of Upper/Cover Belt : Ensure that both cloth and
fusibles are held accurately in correct positions while being
transported through fusing process.
Speed of both belts must be synchronised in order to
prevent compression or extension of the materials.

Careful with the Belt!

Interlinings should not overlap. They soil the conveyor belt.

Temperatures set too high cause resin strike back and soiling
of the cover belt.
Cleaning agents should be used carefully, in order to avoid
build-up on belt inside, rollers or heating elements.
Covers or towels of cleaning bars or cleaning devices should
regularly be checked and replaced.
Transfer and strip-off blades should be cleaned in regular
intervals from resin and dust build-up.
The machine must be cleanedbefore shut-down
Tracking and Tension of the belts should regularly be
checked and readjusted, if required.

Heating
Heating System

Heating
Plates

Two Heating Surfaces positioned

above cover belt and other below
conveyor belt.
Surfaces
slightly
arched
to
intensify heat diffusion.
Both panels separately controlled
which enable any temperature
prole to be achieved.

Cylinder Heating

Two parts: Inner and outer

cylinder.
Heat generated by inner core
is evenly distributed all over
the cylinder mantle.

Pressure
During heating and plasticizing stages, only a slight
pressure is exerted onto the components.
Full pressure is applied to effect the nal bonding after
components
have
been
heated
to
correct
temperature.

Cooling

The fused parts are carried over the cooling zone by a separate
conveyor band in order to prevent unnecessary cooling of the
main conveyor belts.

Take-Off Systems
Take-Off Systems

Manual
System

Mechanical
System

Through rotation of strip-off device along the upper belt, pieces

adhering to the belt are gently and effectively removed .

Continuous Fusing Presses

Continuous-Strip Fusing, Variation of the conveyor-driven continuousfusing press is a relatively small machine used mainly for fusing the
waist bands of trousers and skirts.

New Developments
Two major innovations in fusing technology that have
been developed in recent years are:
(a) High-frequency fusing, and
(b) Direct stabilization

High-frequency Fusing Press

Preparation for
fusing by high
frequency

High-frequency(Dielectric Heating)
Fusing Press
Heat is generated within the materials to be fused by passing them
through a high frequency alternating electric eld.
Due to differing dielectric
properties, adhesives attain a higher
temperature than the cloth.
Thus, it is claimed, fusing can be achieved with a signicantly lower
temperature of the top cloth, which helps to avoid heat stress in the
fabric.
Capable of fusing stacks of components about 10cm deep (multiple
sandwich method).
Productive machine.
Advantage:

Possibility of eliminating shrinkage and colour changes.

Heat generated by high frequency and not electric heating element.
Less pressure needed than conventional fusing presses.

Disadvantage:

Press must be set to allow for the particular natural or man-made materials being used,
the weight and thickness of those materials, and their moisture content.

Direct Stabilization
Polymer Paste Printing for Direct
Stabilization

Direct Stabilization
Stabilization material is printed directly onto top-cloth,
without the use of fusible interlinings.
Printing can be done in any direction in relation to top
cloth, thus providing more resiliency in specic areas
of garment.
Advantages:
Savings in fusible interlinings.
Versatility in handling of different types of application.
Elimination of nearly all work connected with cutting
fusibles.
Reduction of storage space and logistic problems.

How to choose the right fusing

machine?
Method: Is the machine capable of providing the
combinations required by the fusing methods employed
in the factory?
Capacity: What production of large and small parts is
required?
Loading: How and where are the units for fusing
assembled, and how are they fed into the machine?
Directly via trays or by conveyor belt?
Instrumentation: Are the instruments of measurement
that are tted to the machine accurate and reliable?
Cooling: Is it effective and what time element is
involved?
Take-off: Whether manual or automatic? Can a stacker
for small and large parts be attached to the press?
Cleaning: Can the protective covers or conveyor belts or

How to choose the right fusing

machine?
Safety: Are there devices to prevent accidents and to stop
the entry of wrongly positioned components? Is the machine
tted with an emergency stop?
Space and Location: Where will the machine be located, and
what space is required?
Installation: What energy sources are required- electricity,
compressed air, vacuum, water, etc. ?
Service: What technical help can the supplier provide, and
what is the availability of spare parts? What types and at
which levels should spare parts be carried out by the factory
in order to minimize machine downtime?
Maintenance: Can general and preventive maintenance be
carried out by the factory personnel? Is there any special
training required?

How to choose the right fusing

machine?
Cost: What is the total installed cost of the machine?
This could be considerably higher than the price of the
machine itself.
Pay-back: What pay-back time would be acceptable in
relation to the total investment required?
Investment: Can the factory cover the investment
required, or must the capital be raised from outside
sources? If self-nanced, what is the cost of diverting the
capital to the investment?

Accessories of a Fusing
Machine

Base Frame

The machine frame can be tted with height adjustable legs or

optional transport wheels for easier moving.

Support for Creasing

Devices

A special support for xing attachments can be assembled to

the attachment guidance.

Unwinding and Winding Device

Continuous roll to roll fusing is

possible for trouser and skirt
waistbands, maintaining product
integrity.

Automatic Lay-Up Stacker

Can be retrotted or factory installed. This stacker straightens

and stacks fused assemblies.

Unloading Slide

The exit for easy removal of the fused parts.

Feeding System
Feeding System

Feeding Belt

Separate Loading
and Fusing Belt

Extended
Feeding Belt
Right
Mounting
Centre
Mounting
Left
Mounting

Quality Control

Temperature Test Papers

Pyrometers
Peel Strength(Adhesion) Test
Dry Clean and Wash Test
Shrinkage Test

Fusing Problem

Caused By

Flattening Effect

Pressure too high

Shining

Pressure/ Temperature

Colour Changing

Temperature too high

Shrinkage

Temperature/ Moisture content too

high

Deformation

Pressure too high/ Wrong Handling

Hard Handle

Temperature too high

Orange Peel Effect

Moisture

Move of Interlining

Electrostatic/ Wrong Handling

Resin Soiling

Wrong Settings

Brands manufacturing fusing

machines

Veit
Martin Group
Macpi
Oshima
Astex
Fiblon

Veit Machines

FX DIAMOND 1000 / 1400

Exact temperature control

directly at the belt.
Consistent pressure over the
entire operating width.
Pressure System Adjustment
Machine.
Lowest
Reduced wear and tear of belt edge
through possible
contact-freeenergy
belt
consumption
due
to:
detection.
separate feeding
belt, of
no
Prevention of faulty fusing through start/stop-function
in the event
cooling of transport belt
a diversion from pre-set fusing parameters.
outside
of of the belts both
Consistent fusing quality due to optimized
cleaning
on the inner and the outer side. Consequently, major reduction in
soiling of roller and fusing material.

 The Heating Element

For perfect heat radiation, stability over the entire width
of the machine is essential. The heating elements
aluminium construction absorbs only little energy, thus
allowing best possible heat transfer to the fusing
material.
Pressure System
Pressure System
Standard Pressure
System C

Double Pressure
System CU

Double Pressure
System CFC-Flexor

Conguration of heating zones

BOTTOM or TOP.
Perfect adjustment of the heating zone is essential for successful fusing

Heating zone 3/2

bottom/top

For fabrics and interlinings

in outer wear.

Heating zone 2/3

top/bottom

For shirts and sportswear.

AX 450

Small yet powerful fusing

machine.
Offers same attributes as the
larger models.
Can be utilized for fusing
waistbands as well as fullfledged fusing of sportswear
and dress shirts.
Requires no compressed air.
Single
phase
electrical
connection.
or
over heating.

Rolling stand design.

Partial fusing capabilities.

Clear, simple color display for under
Set/actual temperature monitoring.
Separate upper and lower heat zones.

V-AST STACKER

Automatic stacking of fused

assemblies.
Choice of various belt widths.
Coupling of stacker lanes for
extra wide pieces.
Flat
transfer
of
fused
assemblies.
Pieces placed in order.
Pieces placed for precise
bundling.

Martin Group Machines

Shirts Fusing Machine Mod. 75/2C/5

Electronic control of whole equipment

High pressure (till 5kg./cmq.) which guarantees a very
high quality even for heavier productions
Two working planes to avoid dead times
Normal fusing

Shirts Fusing Machine Mod.

X 600 SH

Version with return belt and collection box for collars and wristbands

Upper and lower heating system with 2 independent electronic

thermostats (entry zone, preheating + exit zone).
Heating top with 9 resistive elements which allow the use of lower
temperatures or of a shorter manufacturing time.
System of resistance choking for a thorough uniformity of the working
temperature.
Pressure from 0 to 5 kg./sqcm. , Temperature from 0 to 210 C, Working

Garment Fusing Machine(JacketsCoats) Open Top Laminator

Double heating system with pre-heating that concurs to fuse with very
low temperature respect to the standard temperature.
Pressure system with OUT function for very delicate woven.
Inside and outside belts cleaning devices.
Carbon/graphite lower belt separation blade.
Automatic turn ON and turn OFF by digital timer.

Garment Fusing Machine(JacketsCoats) Open Top 70-100-124-140160-180

Equipped with back exit belt for retrieving adhesive fabric.

Double heating system with preheating that allows to fuse using
temperatures slightly below average.
Sandwich also excellent for the most delicate fabrics.
Pressure system with selector of the OUT device that allows to
thermoadhesive the most delicate fabrics at zero pressure.
Equipped with return belt: it allows to collect the fused fabrics in the
front part of the machine.

Leather Fusing Machine Mod. EMS

120

Electronic control of whole equipment

Electromagnetic closing of plane, it
guarantees accuracy of pressure.
Automatic opening of the plane at the
end of the planned working cycle.
Safe hands" safety system.
Without Compressed air.

Oshima Machines

Low Temperature Fusing Machine

(OP-1600)

The air pressure system together with the special-made pressure

roller, ensure the precise pressure.
12 sets of special-made heating equipments minimize the
temperature differences.
Vacuum cooling system at the end of machine.
Rotary Strip-off device for strengthening the cleaning function and
avoid transforming of the nished fabrics.

Astex Machines

Astex 3024SC for Dress Shirt collars

and Cuffs

Dual, digital heat control, top

and bottom
Front loading table
Cool down timer
Endless Teflon belting system
Anti-pleating roller
Pneumatic pressure control
Solid state speed control
Return-to-Operator
cooling
conveyor - reduces operator
fatigue

ASTEX MODEL 6800SC

High Production Continuous Fusing System
Six Individually Controlled Heating
Zones
Six Actual Value Digital Temperature
Controllers
Tamper Proof Heat Controllers
Loading Shelves
Set Point Hi-Low Temperature Alarms
Rapid Response, High Reserve
Heaters
Top & Bottom Belt Cleaning Systems
Low RPM Rotary Top Belt Strip-Off
Automatic Present Cool Down Timer
Solid State Variable Speed Drive
Pneumatic Pressure Control
Multiple Safety Systems

Use of Fusibles for Mass-Produced

Clothes
Advantages For the Manufacturer
Garments can be produced with a consistent quality of interlining
construction.
Time and labour costs are saved by eliminating the hand and
machine operations required to attach the interlining to the topcloth.
Handling during production, especially of small components is
facilitated.
Differential shrinkage between top-cloth and interlining is reduced
to controllable proportions ( compared to traditional sew-in type).
Stitch pucker and the consequent distortion of sewn parts are
reduced.
The garment has a cleaner and fresher appearance upon its initial
presentation.

Use of Fusibles for Mass-Produced

Clothes
Advantages For the Wearer
Garment durability is increased.
The handle of the cloth is very slightly modied by the
interlining.
The garment retains its original shape after repeated
dry-cleaning or washing.
Crease-recovery time is considerably reduced.

References

Fusing Technology by Gerry Cooklin

Carr and Lathams Technology of Clothing Manufacture
Revised by David J. Tyler
http://www.alvanon.com/assets/les/newsarticles/SW_JUNE_
2013.pdf, 4/05/2015, 8:00 pm
http://www.martingroup.it/index.php/en/?
searchword=fusing&searchphrase=any&limit=20&ordering
=newest&view=search&option=com_search, 12/05/2015,
9:20 pm
http://www.martingroup.it/images/stories/pdf/laminator.pdf,
12/05/2015, 10:20 pm
http://www.martingroup.it/index.php/en/catalog/31garment-fusing-machine-jackets-coats/76-open-top-70-100124-140-160-180-en, 12/05/2015, 11:07 pm
All pictures have been clicked from Fusing Technology by
Gerry Cooklin and Veit Manual.

References
http://www.just-style.com/analysis/the-hidden-strengths-offusing-and-fusibles_id92947.aspx, 11/05/2015, 12:20 pm
http://oshima.com.tw/ASP/Product/Product.asp?
Lang=EN&Page=88, 12/05/2015, 12:30 pm
http://www.jesseheap.com/search.cgi?
Realm=All&Match=1&Terms=fusing
%20machine&maxhits=10&Rank=11, 12/05/2015, 1:14 am
http://www.veit.de/PPL/Veit/VEITdatapackage/VEIT_Classic_02
-1405.pdf, 12/05/2015, 1:20 am
http://www.blon.co.kr/home/home_all.html,
12/05/2015,

1:20 am
http://www.veit.de/en/ironing-and-pressing-garments/fusingmachines/unloading-slide-ax-450/, 13/05/2015, 10:20 am