DRAWING AND PAINTING

WEAVING
Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right
angles to form a fabric or cloth. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the
weft or filling. The method in which these threads are inter woven affects the characteristics of the cloth. [
Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven
through them.
The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven
products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill. Woven cloth can be
plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic designs.
Process and terminology

In general, weaving involves using a loom to interlace two sets of threads at right angles to each other: the
warp which runs longitudinally and the weft (older woof) that crosses it. One warp thread is called an end
and one weft thread is called a pick. The warp threads are held taut and in parallel to each other, typically in
a loom. There are many types of looms.

Weaving can be summarized as a repetition of these three actions, also called the primary motion of the
loom. Shedding: where the ends are separated by raising or lowering heald frames (heddles) to form a clear
space where the pick can pass.Picking:where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom by hand, an airjet, a rapier or a shuttle. Beating-up or battening: where the weft is pushed up against the fell of the cloth
by the reed. The warp is divided into two overlapping groups, or lines (most often adjacent threads
belonging to the opposite group) that run in two planes, one above another, so the shuttle can be passed
between them in a straight motion. Then, the upper group is lowered by the loom mechanism, and the lower
group is raised (shedding), allowing to pass the shuttle in the opposite direction, also in a straight motion.
Repeating these actions form a fabric mesh but without beating-up, the final distance between the adjacent
wefts would be irregular and far too large.

The secondary motion of the loom are the: Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a
regulated speed to make the filling even and of the required design. Take up Motion: Takes up the woven
fabric in a regulated manner so that the density of filling is maintained

TEXTILE DESIGN
Textile design is the process of creating designs and structures for knitted, woven, non-woven or embellishments of fabrics.
Textile designing involves producing patterns for cloth used in clothing, household textiles (such as towels) and decorative
textiles such as carpets. The field encompasses the actual pattern making as well as supervising part or all of the
production process. In other words, textile design is a process from the raw material into finished product. Fiber, yarn and
finishes are the key elements to be considered during the textile design procedure
Textile designing is a creative field that bridges fashion design, carpet manufacturing and any other cloth-related field.
Designs for both woven and printed textiles often begin with a drawing or watercolor sketch of the finished design. Traditionally,
drawings of woven textile patterns were translated onto special forms of graph paper called point papers which were used
by the weavers in setting up their looms.
Today, designers might use software, hand paint, or grab a pencil and paper to record their design. Patterns are often designed
in repeat to maintain a balanced design even when fabric is made into yardage. Repeat size is the distance directly across
or down from any motif in a design to the next place that same motif occurs. The size of the repeat is determined by the
production method. For example, printed repeat patterns must fit within particular screen sizes while woven repeat
patterns must fit within certain loom sizes. There are several different types of layouts for repeated patterns. Some of the
most common repeats are straight and half drop. Often, the same design is produced in many different colored versions.
Each version is called a colorway. Once a pattern is agreed upon, the design process shifts to choosing the proper fabrics
and then to getting the design printed on or woven into the fabric. Designer might want to use the method of dyeing or
printing to create their design.
There are many printing methods. For instance,

Direct (Blotch) Printing

Overprinting

Discharge Printing

Resist Printing

Block Printing

Roller Printing

Screen Printing

DYE
A dye is a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an
aqueous solution, and requires a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber.
Both dyes and pigments appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light more than others. In contrast with a dye,
a pigment generally is insoluble, and has no affinity for the substrate. Some dyes can be precipitated with an inert salt to produce
a lake pigment, and based on the salt used they could be aluminum lake, calcium lake or barium lake pigments.
Natural dye-The majority of natural dyes are from plant sources roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood, fungi, and lichens. Textile
dyeing dates back to the Neolithic period. Throughout history, people have dyed their textiles using common, locally available
materials. Scarce dyestuffs that produced brilliant and permanent colors such as the natural invertebrate dyes. Plant-based dyes
such as wood, indigo, saffron, and madder were raised commercially and were important trade goods in the economies of Asia and
Europe. Across Asia and Africa, patterned fabrics were produced using resist dyeing techniques to control the absorption of color in
piece-dyed cloth.
Synthetic dye-Types of synthetic dyes; Acid dyes are water-soluble anionic dyes that are applied to fibers such as silk, wool, nylon and
modified acrylic fibers using neutral to acid dye baths; Basic dyes are water-soluble cationic dyes that are mainly applied to
acrylic fibers, but find some use for wool and silk. Usually acetic acid is added to the dye bath to help the uptake of the dye onto
the fiber. Direct or substantive dyeing is normally carried out in a neutral or slightly alkaline dyebath, at or near boiling point,
with the addition of either sodium chloride (NaCl) or sodium sulfate (Na 2SO4) or sodium carbonate (Na2CO3). Direct dyes are used
on cotton, paper, leather, wool, silk and nylon. They are also used as pH indicators and as biological stains. Mordant dyes require
a mordant, which improves the fastness of the dye against water, light and perspiration. Vat dyes are essentially insoluble in
water and incapable of dyeing fibres directly. Disperse dyes were originally developed for the dyeing of cellulose acetate, and are
water insoluble. The dyes are finely ground in the presence of a dispersing agent and sold as a paste, or spray-dried and sold as a
powder. Reactive dyes utilize a chromophore attached to a substituent that is capable of directly reacting with the fibre substrate.
Methods
Dyes are applied to textile goods by dyeing from dye solutions and by printing from dye pastes. The methods are Direct application
The term "direct dye application" stems from some dyestuff having to be either fermented as in the case of some natural dye or
chemically reduced as in the case of synthetic vat and sulfur dyes before being applied. This renders the dye soluble so that it can
be absorbed by the fiber since the insoluble dye has very little substantively to the fiber. Direct dyes, a class of dyes largely for
dyeing cotton, are water soluble and can be applied directly to the fiber from an aqueous solution. Most other classes of synthetic
dye, other than vat and surface dyes, are also applied in this way.
Yarn dyeing

LOOMS
A loom is a device used to weave cloth. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to
facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but the
basic function is the same.
Types of looms

Back strap loom -Both simple and complex textiles can be woven on this loom. Width is limited to how far the
weaver can reach from side to side to pass the shuttle. Warp faced textiles, often decorated with intricate pick-up
patterns woven in complementary and supplementary warp techniques are woven by indigenous peoples today
around the world.

Warp-weighted loom -The warp-weighted loom is a vertical loom that may have originated in the Neolithic period.
The earliest evidence of warp-weighted looms comes from sites belonging to the Starevo culture in modern
Hungary and from late Neolithic sites in Switzerland.

Drawloom -A drawloom is a hand-loom for weaving figured cloth. In a drawloom, a "figure harness" is used to
control each warp thread separately.

Handloom -A handloom is a simple machine used for weaving.

Flying shuttle -John Kay (17041779) patented the flying shuttle in 1733. The weaver held a picking stick that was
attached by cords to a device at both ends of the shed. With a flick of the wrist, one cord was pulled and the shuttle
was propelled through the shed to the other end with considerable force, speed and efficiency. A flick in the opposite
direction and the shuttle was propelled back. A single weaver had control of this motion but the flying shuttle could
weave much wider fabric than an arms length at much greater speeds than had been achieved with the hand
thrown shuttle.

Haute-lisse and basse-lisse looms- Looms used for weaving traditional tapestry are classified as haute-lisse
looms, where the warp is suspended vertically between two rolls, and the basse-lisse looms, where the warp
extends horizontally between the rolls.

Ribbon weaving

Traditional looms

TEXTILE PRINTING
Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is
bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the
whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in
sharply defined patterns.
Methods of printing
There are seven distinct methods at present in use for producing coloured patterns on cloth:

Hand block printing Block printing by hand is a slow process it is, however, capable of yielding highly artistic results, some of
which are unobtainable by any other method.

Perrotine printing The perrotine is a block-printing machine invented by Perrot of Rouen in 1834, and practically speaking is the
only successful mechanical device ever introduced for this purpose.

Engraved copperplate printing The printing of textiles from engraved copperplates was first practiced in the United Kingdom
by Thomas Bell in 1770.The presses first used were of the ordinary letterpress type, the engraved plate being fixed in the place of
the type. In later improvements the well-known cylinder press was employed; the plate was inked mechanically and cleaned off by
passing under a sharp blade of steel; and the cloth, instead of being laid on the plate, was passed round the pressure cylinder. The
plate was raised into frictional contact with the cylinder and in passing under it transferred its ink to the cloth.

Roller printing, cylinder printing, or machine printing This elegant and efficient process was patented and worked by Bell in
1785 only fifteen years after his application of the engraved plate to textiles. Bell's first patent was for a machine to print six
colours at once, but, owing probably to its incomplete development, this was not immediately successful, although the principle of
the method was shown to be practical by the printing of one colour with perfectly satisfactory results. The difficulty was to keep
the six rollers, each carrying a portion of the pattern, in perfect register with each other. This defect was soon overcome by Adam
Parkinson of Manchester, and in 1785, the year of its invention, Bells machine with Parkinson's improvement was successfully
employed by Messrs Livesey, Hargreaves and Company of Bamber Bridge, Preston, for the printing of calico in from two to six
colours at a single operation.

Stencil printing

Screen-printing

Digital textile printing

Digital textile printing, often referred to as direct to garment printing, DTG printing, and digital garment printing is a process of printing
on textiles and garments using specialized or modified inkjet technology. Inkjet printing on fabric is also possible with an inkjet
printer by using fabric sheets with a removable paper backing.