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LEATHER
(natural)
TEXTILES
FUR (natural)
Hide=Pelt
LEATHER is a durable
and flexible material
created
by
tanning
animal raw hide (pelt)
and skin, often cattle
hide.
TANNING
is
the
process of treating skins
and hides of animals to
produce leather.
Fiber or fibre is a
natural
or
synthetic
substance
that
is
significantly longer than
it is wide.
YARN
Spinnin
g
(twistin
g the
fibres
togethe
r)
is a long continuous
length of interlocked
fibres, suitable for
use in the production
of textiles, sewing,
crocheting, knitting,
weaving, embroidery,
and rope making.
Thread is a type of
yarn intended for
sewing by hand or
machine.
Woven fabrics
Fabric
manufacturin
g techniques
(Weaving/
Knitting)
Knited fabrics
FIBRES
NON-WOVEN TEXTILE
FELTING
manufacturing
techniques
(matting,
condensing and
pressing fibres
together using
heat, pressure
and humidity)
felt
FIBRES
NON-WOVEN TEXTILE
bonded by
chemical,
thermal or
mechanical
processes into
textile products
Fibre to
fabric
video
NATURAL
MAN-MADE
VEGETABLE
ANIMAL
Seed
HAIR
Stem
Secreted by
glands
Leaf
Fruit
MINERAL
Formed in
rock and
lava
(asbestos)
Stem
Leaf
Fruit
Cotton
Flax
Manila
Coir (coconut
fibre)
Kapok
Hemp
Sisal
Swallow-wort
Jute
Pia
Kenaf
New
Zealand flax
Ramie
Yucca
ANIMAL
Animal Hair
Wool
Cashmere
Mohair
Angora
wool
Camel
Alpaca
Secreted by
glands
Natural Silk
MAN-MADE
Organic
Synthetic
polymer
Natural
polymer
Cellulose
Protein
Rubber
Natural
sugars
Inorganic
Metallic
Glass
STAPLE FIBER
is a unit of matter
which is usually at
least 100 times
longer than it is
thick. They are short
length fibers. All
natural fibers like
cotton, flax, wool
except silk are
staple fibers.
FILAMENT
FIBER
is a very long fiber.
The length of
filaments may range
from a few 100 mm
(Silk) to several km
(all Manmade fibers)
FLEXIBILITY/
PLIABILITY
The ability of a fiber to resist
repeated bending without breaking
it is called is flexibility or pliability.
IMPORTANT FOR END USE:
- Influence the hand/ feel.
- Draping quality for apparel
(clothing).
- Capacity to move with body&
permit freedom movement.
- Durability of end product.
It is important to
know this in
processing and also in
testing. Since fiber
moisture is
dependent upon the
ambient-air
conditions, it depends
heavily on the
climatic conditions
and the time of
exposure before
operation. Whereas
the strength of
cotton, linen, etc.,
increases with
increasing moisture
content, the reverse
is true for polyamide
fiber (nylon), viscose,
silk and wool.
UNIFORMITY
manufacturing process.
SECONDARY
Properties
PROPERTIES
PHYSICAL SHAPE
OF
FIBERS
Physical
wool
cotton
linen
cross section.
nylon
polyester
SECONDARY
Properties
PROPERTIES
OF
FIBERS
Physical
EFFECT OF CROSS
SECTIONAL SHAPE
Smooth surface reflect
light back to their
sources & appear shiny.
Silk has more regular
surface so gives distinct
luster.
LUSTER
Luster is the gloss,
sheen or shine that fiber
possesses. Determined
by the way light is
reflected from the
surface of the fiber.
SECONDARY
Properties
PROPERTIES
OF
FIBERS
FINENESS
Relative sizes,
diameter are
measures of fineness
of the fiber.
Physical
SECONDARY
Properties
PROPERTIES
OF
FIBERS
Physical
COLOUR
Fibers are available in wide range of colors. White or colourless fibers are preferred
as they can be dyed or printed with different colours.
E.g. Wool can be off white, tan, brown, gray or black.
Cotton is usually white or cream white. Jute can be golden brown. Linen is an off
white.
Manmade- exist in wide range .
MOISTURE ABSORBTION - All textiles are hygroscopic. That is, they absorb or
release moisture depending on the relative humidity of the surrounding air. Different
fiber types absorb different amounts of moisture depending on their affinity for
water. Relative humidity is the most important factor that affects the regain of
textile materials. The higher the relative humidity of the atmosphere, the higher is
the regain of textile material which is exposed to it.
MOISTURE
REGAIN
It is the ratio
between the weight
of water with the dry
weight of the
material express in
percentage.
MOISTURE
CONTENT
It is the ratio
between the weight
of water with the
total weight of the
material express in
percentage.
MOISTURE
CONTENT
It is the ratio
between the weight
of water with the
total weight of the
material express in
percentage.
ELONGATION
The amount of
stretch or extension
that a fiber will
accept before it
breaks is referred as
elongation.
ELASTIC
RECOVERY
it is the ability of a
fiber to recover its
original length
immediately after
removal of the load.
If fiber recovers
completely from
deformation, it exhibits
RESILIENCY
The ability of fiber to
return to its original
shape after
compression,
bending, creasing,
twisting or similar
deformation is
resiliency.
pilling effect
REACTION TO
ALKALIES
REACTION TO
ACIDS
Bleaches are
chemical solutions
designed to remove
discoloration.
Hydrogen peroxide
is used.
NON RESISTENT
Concentrated cold
or dilute hot mineral
acids such as
sulphuric acid, will
destroy it (Cellulosic
fibers; Wool fibers)
RESISTANT
to dilute acids.
Although wool is
damaged by hot
sulphuric acid, it is
not affected by
other acids, even
when heated.
IDENTIFICATION OF FIBERS
VISUAL
INSPECTION
Can identify a fabric
by its appearance
but accuracy in
identifying comes
through experience.
The appearance
properties of
different fibers can
help in identifying a
fabric. Ex:
- Silk is smooth,
shiny and fine.
- Cotton is also
smooth but looks
dull;
- Wool is most
definitely rough
looking.
BURNING TEST
CHEMICAL TEST
Burning test is a
simple and reliable
test. The burning
test does not
identify the fiber in
particular but
indicates its group.
- Cotton, flax and
rayon will have
similar results
when burnt as
they are all
basically
cellulosic in
nature.
- Cotton, Linen,
Coir smell of
burning paper.
- Silk, wool- smell
of burning hair.
Final verification of
fibers is done by this
test.
Acetone
100%
ACETATE
Soluble
Insoluble
Soluble
ACRYLIC
Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
COTTON
Insoluble
Insoluble
HAIR
Insoluble
Insoluble
HEMP
Insoluble
Insoluble
LINEN
Insoluble
Insoluble
Slightly
soluble
Insoluble
Slightly
soluble
Slightly
soluble
Chlorine
bleach 5%
Formic acid
90%
Soluble
Insoluble
depending on
type
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Solubleor
Insoluble
MODARYLIC
depending on
type
Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
NYLON
OLEFIN
POLYESTER
Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
RAMIE
Insoluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
RAYON
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
SILK
Insoluble
Soluble
Soluble
Soluble
Wool
Insoluble
Insoluble
Partially
Soluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Slightly
soluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Soluble
Insoluble
Partially
soluble
Insoluble
FOCUS ON
NATURAL FIBERS
COTTON
Effect of age
Effect of Heat
BURNING TEST OF
COTTON
In Flame
Ignites immediately
Removed From
Flame
Continues to burn
Odor
Burning paper or
wood
Light ash, blows away
Ash
ADVANTAGES OF COTTON
Environmentally friendly (only if organic - the process of
producing organic cotton is totally natural and pesticidefree. )
Durable
Is an excellent material for humid climates as it allows air
to flow and around the skin, creating a cooling effect. It
also absorbs the sweat and moisture from your body
which keeps you dry and more comfortable.
DISADVANTAGES OF COTTON
Cotton clothes will begin to fade after a few years,
particularly if left in direct sunlight.
Cotton is not a very weatherproof fabric. If left outside it is
also likely to be damaged by mold and mildew. Man-made
fabrics tend to be much tougher, and mold resistant
BURNING TEST
How It's
Made
COTTON
YARN
video
https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH_b3He
o48I
JUTE FIBER
JUTE
Jute is also called "the golden fiber" for its
color and high cash value.
It falls into theBAST FIBRE category
It is the second most important vegetable
fiber after cotton, in terms of usage, global
consumption, production, and availability.
Length
Physical
Properties
1.5-4mm
Diameter
0.015-0.020mm
Moisture
Regain(MR%)
Resiliency
13.75%
COLOR
Strength(Tenacity)
white, off-white,
yellow, brown,
grey, golden
3-4 gm/denier
Elongation
BAD
Physical Properties
Dimensional
Stability
Good
Abrasion
Resistance
Average
Average
Effect of Micro
organism
Good(better than
cotton)
Ignites
immediately
Continues to burn,
doesnt shrink
from flame
Burning paper or
wood
Light colored
BURN TEST
Burn Character: burns
quickly with bright flame
Smoke/Smell: burning
paper, burning leaves or
wood
Residue: It leaves no
melted bead and after
burning no sign of flame
is seen. The ash is gray
and smoke has no fume
hazard.
END APPLICATIONS
Fibre to
Fabric Cotton, Jute
- video
https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxvNiy
nMmk4
FLAX FIBER
FLAX FIBER
Tensile Strength:
Linen is a strong fiber.
BURN TEST
Burn Character: it
takes longer to ignite.
It is easily
extinguished by
blowing on it.
Smoke/Smell :
burning paper.
Residue: fine gray
ash.
How Linen Is
Made
video
https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=24yQ5R
8On2U
SILK FIBER
SILK FIBER
Effect of sunlight - Silk is more sensitive light than any
other natural fibre. Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause
partially spotted color change. Yellowing of silk fibre is
generally occurred due to photo degradation by the action of
UV radiation of sunlight.
Heat conductivity: like wool, silk is a protein fibre and is a
non-conductor of heat.
Absorbency: Silk fiber can absorb about 11% of its weight in
moisture but range varies from 10%-30%.
Lustre: high lustrous fiber.
SILK FIBER
Draping quality: silk fibre is flexible enough and
if used to make garments then the fabric drapes
well
Elongation - Silk fibre has an elongation at break
of 20-25% under normal condition.
SILK FIBER
BURN TEST
How Its
Made Silk
video
https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqFm_7K
yfHI
WOOL FIBER
WOOL FIBER
Non allergenic wool is not known to cause allergy and does not
promote the growth of bacteria. With microscopic scales, wool
fibres can trap dust in the top layers until vacuumed away.
Durable and elastic wool fibre can be bent 20,000 times
without breaking and still have the power to recover and return to
its natural shape. Quality wool garments look good for longer.
Easy care modern wool can be machine-washed; retaining a
small amount of natural oil, wool fibre resists dirt and grease.
Multi-Climatic wool acclimatizes to its surroundings.
WOOL FIBER
Effect of Resilience: Wool fibers can be stretched up to 50
percent of their original length when wet and 30 percent when
dry.
Effect of Organic Solvent: Wool does not affect in organic
solvents.
Effects of Insects: Wool affected by insects.
Effect of bleach: Chlorine bleach is ordinary harmful to the
wool. KMnO4, Na2O2 are utilized for bleaching.
WOOL FIBER
BURNING TEST
Burn Character: It burns
slowly. It sizzles and curls
away from flame and may curl
back onto fingernail (like
human hair). It is selfextinguishing
Smoke/Smell: It gives out a
strong smell of burning hair or
feathers. It gives out dark
smoke and moderate fume.
Residue: It leaves irregular
hollow beads that are brittle,
dark, and easily crushed. It
leaves harsh ash from
crushed bead.
Notes: shrinks from flame.
How Its
Made Wool
video
https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibC7Vhlb
Enk
FOCUS ON
MAN MADE FIBERS
SYNTHTICS
POLYESTER FIBER
PROPERTIES OF POLYESTER
Any of numerous synthetic fiber
produced from coal, air, water, and
FIBER
petroleum products.
They are light and strong and weather resistant and easy to wash.
Quick drying
Abrasion resistant
Very strong
PROPERTIES OF POLYESTER
Very low absorbency.
FIBER
Resistant to insects.
BURN TEST
Burn Character: It burns
quickly and shrinks away from
flame, may also flare up. After
the flame, it burns slowly and
is not always selfextinguishing.
Smoke/Smell: It has a slightly
sweet chemical odour and its
black smoke and fume are
hazardous.
Residue: no ash is left. It
leaves hard, dark, and round
beads.
Notes: melted fiber drips black
smoke.
BURN TEST
VIEW
ACRYLIC
Burns Quickly
Continues To Melt
Ash
Acidic Odor
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity
Density
2-4.2 gm/den
1.16 gm/cc
Elongation at break
20 to 55%
Elasticity
Moisture Regain(MR
%)
Good
1-2.5%
Resiliency
Good
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Melting point
230C
Ability to protest
friction
Color
Light reflection ability
Good
It can protest up to
150C temperature
Lusture
Bright to light
BURN TEST
Burn Character: It flare up at
match-touch, shrink from
flame, burn rapidly with hot
sputtering flame and drip
dangerously. They continue
melting after flame is removed
and are self-extinguishing.
Smoke/Smell: a strong acrid,
fishy odor. the black smoke
and fume are hazardous.
Residue: no ash is left just
beads that are hard, dark, and
with irregular shapes.
Notes: melted fiber drips
black smoke.
END-USES OF ACRYLIC
FOR CLOTHING: Sweaters, Women's and Children's
Wear, Sports Wear, Socks, Knitted Underwear,
Pajamas, Gloves, etc
FOR HOME FURNISHINGS AND BEDDING:
Carpets, A Variety of Rugs, Upholstery, Cushions,
Blankets, Pile Sheets, etc.
FOR INDUSTRIAL USES: Felts for Paper Making,
Filter Cloth, Alternative Asbestos, Tents, Sheet, etc.
FOR OTHER USES: Rag Doll, Toys, Auxiliary Tapes
for Bags, Braids, Cloth for Bags, Wigs, etc.
NYLON FIBER
NYLON
Nylon with Polythene
Braided yarn
Nylonis
generic
designation
synthetic polymersknown
for
generically
a
as
family
of
aliphatic
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity
6.0-8.5 gm/den
Density
1.14 gm/cc
Elongation at break
15-45%
Elasticity
Very good
Moisture Regain(MR
%)
3.5-5%
Resiliency
Good
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Melting point
215C
Ability to protest
friction
Color
Excellent
White
Bright to light
Melts slowly
Removed From
Flame
Odor
Self extinguishes
Ash
Plastic bead
Unidentified odor
ADVANTAGES
High elongation
DISADVANTAGES
and
slack lining
rope
used
in
climbing gear
and
BURN TEST
Burn Character: Due to their
fabric finish, they quickly burn
and shrink to flame. After
flame, they burn slowly and
melt. They are selfextinguishing but drip
dangerously.
Smoke/Smell: Their odor is
like celery and but the fume is
very hazardous.
Residue: they leave no ash,
just hard beads. The beads are
hard, grayish and uncrushable.
Notes: melted fiber drips.
SPANDEX (LYCRA)
Monofilament yarn
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity
0.7 gm/den
Density:
1.21-1.35 gm/cc
Elongation at break
400-700%
Elasticity
Excellent
Moisture Regain(MR%)
0.6%
Resiliency
Very Good
Excellent
Color
Not good
Lustre
Less bright
In Flame
Melts slowly
Removed From
Flame
Self extinguishing
Odor
Acidic
Ash
Plastic bead
ADVANTAGES OF LYCRA
DISADVANTAGES OF LYCRA
SINCE IT IS TIGHT-FITTING, NONCYCLISTS FEEL HARD TO ACCEPT ITS
APPEARANCE.
SOCIAL ACCEPTANCE OF THIS TIGHTFITTING IS STILL SLOWLY BEING
IMPLEMENTED.
IF THE LYCRA IS BEING USED AS A BASE
FOR GLUING, AS MIGHT BE THE CASE
IN A FOAM BODYSUIT, THE GLUE WILL
TEND NOT TO SOAK IN THEFIBERSAND
YOU WILL NOT GET GOOD ADHERENCE.
END APPLICATIONS
How It's
Made
Recycled
Polyester
Yarn video
https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyF9Mxlc
Itw
MICRO FIBER
MICRO
FIBER
synthetic fiber very small in diameter
Microfiber is
making them
super soft. Their diameter is 1/100th the diameter of a human hair
and 1/20th the diameter of a strand of silk.
Microfiber combines two basic fibers, Polyester and Polyamide (a
Nylon by-product). These fibers are usually split and formed into a
woven fabric of 80% Polyester (the scrubbing and cleaning fiber),
and 20% Polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fiber).
GENERAL
PROPERTIES
OF
MICROFIBERS
-
Ultra-fine linear density (less than 0.1 dtex/f), finer than the most delicate
silk.
Extremely drapeable & Durability.
Very soft, luxurious hand with a silken or suede touch.
Washable and dry-cleanable.
Shrink resistance.
High strength, although the filaments are super fine.
Insulates well against wind, rain and cold.
Anti-microbial agents help to protect from the dangers of the bacteria that
cause odor and mildew.
Microfibre is hypoallergenic, and so does not create problems for those
suffering from allergies.
Microfibre is non-electrostatic.
Microfibres are super-absorbent, absorbing over 7 times their weight in water.
Microfiber dries in one-third of the time of ordinary fibres.
Microfibres are environmentally friendly
Improved breathability
Vivid prints with more clarity and sharper contrast
Appearance retention
Can be made windproof and water resistant
The greater fiber surface area also results in higher rates of dyeing at lower
temperatures, and decreased fastness to light, crocking (fastness to rubbing),
water & ozone.
FOCUS ON
MAN MADE FIBERS
NATURAL
(TRI)ACETATE FIBER
ACETATE FIBER
Triacetate is made by combining acetate with a cellulose pulp. This
produced a fibre which enhances certain of the properties already
found in acetate and diminishes somewhat some of the weaknesses of
acetate. Triacetate is often blended with cotton to improve wear and
performance of the latter, or with wool to counter shrinkage, improve
warmth and drip dry properties. It may also be combined with linen to
reduce the cost of the latter.
No static problem
Low resilient
Resistant to mildew
BURN TEST
Burn Character: burns quickly and can flare even
after flame is removed. It melts into a very hot bead
and drips very dangerously.
Smoke/Smell: the smell is like hot vinegar or burning
pepper. It gives out black smoke and the fume is
hazardous.
Residue: No ash is left by it. The bead is hard, brittle,
and can't be crushed.
RAYON OR VISCOSE
BURN TEST
Burn Character: burns
rapidly. It burns without
flame or melting and may
flare up. After the flame is
removed, it may glow a bit
longer than cotton.
Smoke/Smell: burning
leaves.
Residue: Unless there is a
fabric finish, it doesn't
leave any bead. soft gray
ash. It's smoke is a little
hazardous.
LYOCELL
TENCEL
MODAL
It is a type of rayon, a
semi-synthetic cellulose
fiber made by spinning
reconstituted cellulose,
in this case often from
beech trees.
Modal is used alone or
with other fibers (often
cotton or spandex)