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FIBRES

MATERIALS USED IN FASHION

LEATHER
(natural)

TEXTILES

FUR (natural)

TEXTILES (fabrics) are


made from fibers
(fibres).

NATURAL FUR refers


to animal pelts (hides)
which
have
been
processed into leather
with
the
hair
still
attached.

Hide=Pelt
LEATHER is a durable
and flexible material
created
by
tanning
animal raw hide (pelt)
and skin, often cattle
hide.
TANNING
is
the
process of treating skins
and hides of animals to
produce leather.

Fiber or fibre is a
natural
or
synthetic
substance
that
is
significantly longer than
it is wide.

FIBRES the raw material used to


produce textiles. Fibres are the smallest
part of the fabric.
FROM FIBRES TO TEXTILES
TEXTILE
FIBRES

YARN
Spinnin
g
(twistin
g the
fibres
togethe
r)

is a long continuous
length of interlocked
fibres, suitable for
use in the production
of textiles, sewing,
crocheting, knitting,
weaving, embroidery,
and rope making.
Thread is a type of
yarn intended for
sewing by hand or
machine.

Woven fabrics
Fabric
manufacturin
g techniques
(Weaving/
Knitting)

Knited fabrics

FIBRES the raw material used to


produce textiles. Fibres are the smallest
part of the fabric.
FROM FIBRES TO TEXTILES

FIBRES

NON-WOVEN TEXTILE
FELTING
manufacturing
techniques
(matting,
condensing and
pressing fibres
together using
heat, pressure
and humidity)

felt

FIBRES the raw material used to


produce textiles. Fibres are the smallest
part of the fabric.
FROM FIBRES TO TEXTILES

FIBRES

NON-WOVEN TEXTILE

bonded by
chemical,
thermal or
mechanical
processes into
textile products

Fibre to

fabric
video

CLASSIFICATION BASED ON SOURCE OF


FIBERS fibres are classified into two large
categories: natural and man-made.

NATURAL

MAN-MADE

NATURAL FIBRES can be classified


according to their origin:
NATURAL
FIBERS

VEGETABLE

ANIMAL

Seed

HAIR

Stem

Secreted by
glands

Leaf

Fruit

MINERAL
Formed in
rock and
lava
(asbestos)

VEGETABLE FIBRES - Plant-based fibres


(cellulosic fibres)
VEGETABLE
Seed

Stem

Leaf

Fruit

Cotton

Flax

Manila

Coir (coconut
fibre)

Kapok

Hemp

Sisal

Swallow-wort

Jute

Pia

Kenaf

New
Zealand flax

Ramie

Yucca

ANIMAL FIBRES - consist largely of particular proteins. Protein is essential to


the structure and function of all living cells. The protein fibre keratin comes from
hair fibres and is most commonly used in textile production.

ANIMAL
Animal Hair
Wool
Cashmere
Mohair
Angora
wool
Camel
Alpaca

Secreted by
glands
Natural Silk

MAN-MADE FIBRES - Man-made fibers or chemical fibers are fibers whose


chemical composition, structure, and properties are significantly modified during
the manufacturing process. Man-made fibers consist of regenerated fibers and
synthetic fibers.

MAN-MADE
Organic
Synthetic
polymer

Natural
polymer
Cellulose
Protein
Rubber
Natural
sugars

Inorganic
Metallic
Glass

CLASSIFICATION BASED ON LENGTH OF


FIBERS
Fibers come as short fibers and long fibers and their
length is an important property of fibers.

STAPLE FIBER
is a unit of matter
which is usually at
least 100 times
longer than it is
thick. They are short
length fibers. All
natural fibers like
cotton, flax, wool
except silk are
staple fibers.

FILAMENT
FIBER
is a very long fiber.
The length of
filaments may range
from a few 100 mm
(Silk) to several km
(all Manmade fibers)

PRIMARY PROPERTIES OF FIBERS - A fiber must possess


these to qualify as a suitable substance for use in forming
textile fibers.

LENGTH TO WIDTH RATIO


The fiber must be long enough to
allow processing & slender (tipis)
enough to be flexible.

FLEXIBILITY/
PLIABILITY
The ability of a fiber to resist
repeated bending without breaking
it is called is flexibility or pliability.
IMPORTANT FOR END USE:
- Influence the hand/ feel.
- Draping quality for apparel
(clothing).
- Capacity to move with body&
permit freedom movement.
- Durability of end product.

PRIMARY PROPERTIES OF FIBERS - A fiber must possess


these to qualify as a suitable substance for use in forming
textile fibers.
STRENGTH (TENACITY)
Fiber must possess
enough strength to
withstand chemical or
machine processing.
Its related to
durability of fiber &
final product.
Nature produces
countless types of
fibers, most of which
are not usable for
textiles because of
inadequate strength.
Except for polyester
and polypropylene
fiber, fiber strength is
moisture-dependent.

It is important to
know this in
processing and also in
testing. Since fiber
moisture is
dependent upon the
ambient-air
conditions, it depends
heavily on the
climatic conditions
and the time of
exposure before
operation. Whereas
the strength of
cotton, linen, etc.,
increases with
increasing moisture
content, the reverse
is true for polyamide
fiber (nylon), viscose,
silk and wool.

PRIMARY PROPERTIES OF FIBERS - A fiber must possess


these to qualify as a suitable substance for use in forming
textile fibers.
COHESIVENESS/
SPINNING QUALITY

UNIFORMITY

It is ability of fibers to adhere/

To convert fiber into yarn, a

stick to each other or cling

fiber must possess similar

together during yarn

length & width, cohesiveness,

manufacturing process.

strength & flexibility.


It produces even yarns &
fabrics of uniform appearance.

SECONDARY
Properties

PROPERTIES

PHYSICAL SHAPE

OF

FIBERS

Physical

textile fibers under microscope

This includes average


length, surface contour,
surface irregularities &

wool

cotton

linen

cross section.

nylon

polyester

SECONDARY
Properties

PROPERTIES

OF

FIBERS

Physical

EFFECT OF CROSS
SECTIONAL SHAPE
Smooth surface reflect
light back to their
sources & appear shiny.
Silk has more regular
surface so gives distinct
luster.

LUSTER
Luster is the gloss,
sheen or shine that fiber
possesses. Determined
by the way light is
reflected from the
surface of the fiber.

cross sectional shape of different


fibers

SECONDARY
Properties

PROPERTIES

OF

FIBERS

FINENESS
Relative sizes,
diameter are
measures of fineness
of the fiber.

Physical

SECONDARY
Properties

PROPERTIES

OF

FIBERS

Physical

COLOUR
Fibers are available in wide range of colors. White or colourless fibers are preferred
as they can be dyed or printed with different colours.
E.g. Wool can be off white, tan, brown, gray or black.
Cotton is usually white or cream white. Jute can be golden brown. Linen is an off
white.
Manmade- exist in wide range .

SECONDARY PROPERTIES OF FIBERS - MOISTURE ABSORPTION


The amount of water a fiber can absorb from the atmosphere or water
bath may affect apparel comfort, fabric care, and textile processing &
fiber price.
HYDROPHILIC
Fibers that like or
absorb water.

HYDROPHOBICFibers that dislike


or do not absorb
water.

MOISTURE ABSORBTION - All textiles are hygroscopic. That is, they absorb or
release moisture depending on the relative humidity of the surrounding air. Different
fiber types absorb different amounts of moisture depending on their affinity for
water. Relative humidity is the most important factor that affects the regain of
textile materials. The higher the relative humidity of the atmosphere, the higher is
the regain of textile material which is exposed to it.

MOISTURE
REGAIN
It is the ratio
between the weight
of water with the dry
weight of the
material express in
percentage.

MOISTURE
CONTENT
It is the ratio
between the weight
of water with the
total weight of the
material express in
percentage.

MOISTURE ABSORBTION - The change in moisture content has a direct


impact on the properties of textiles, such as tensile strength, elasticity,
fibre diameter and friction. As textile yarns are sold by weight, if a drop in
humidity leads to a 4% reduction in weight it means yarns suppliers
(sellers) loose money. The ability of moisture release of fibers is improved
by textile structure (In production).
MOISTURE
REGAIN
It is the ratio
between the weight
of water with the dry
weight of the
material express in
percentage.

MOISTURE
CONTENT
It is the ratio
between the weight
of water with the
total weight of the
material express in
percentage.

SECONDARY PROPERTIES OF FIBERS that measure the


strength of a fiber

ELONGATION
The amount of
stretch or extension
that a fiber will
accept before it
breaks is referred as
elongation.

ELASTIC
RECOVERY

it is the ability of a
fiber to recover its
original length
immediately after
removal of the load.
If fiber recovers
completely from
deformation, it exhibits

RESILIENCY
The ability of fiber to
return to its original
shape after
compression,
bending, creasing,
twisting or similar
deformation is
resiliency.

SECONDARY PROPERTIES OF FIBERS - ABRASION RESISTANCE


The wearing away of a material by rubbing against another surface is
known as Abrasion. Abrasion around collars, cuffs in apparels occurs as
fabric move & rub against another surface, such as human body, arm of
a chair.
In time some textiles become more lustrous like linen. Knitted wool
fabrics usually suffer from pilling effect.

pilling effect

SECONDARY PROPERTIES OF FIBERS - THERMAL PROPERTIES


Most textile fibers burn when exposed to a flame. Fiber with low
incidence of burning will be safer than fibers that burn quickly.
- Some fibers melt &drip- Nylon
- Self extinguisher Wool, silk
- Glow afterwards- Cotton , Rayon

SECONDARY PROPERTIES OF FIBERS - BIOLOGICAL PROPERTIES


The behavior of fibers towards insects, beetles, moths, microbes, bacteria,
fungi, mildews etc.

SECONDARY PROPERTIES OF FIBERS - CHEMICAL


PROPERTY
REACTION TO
BLEACHES

REACTION TO
ALKALIES

REACTION TO
ACIDS

Bleaches are
chemical solutions
designed to remove
discoloration.
Hydrogen peroxide
is used.

Cellulosic- Not harmed


by alkalines.
Protein- Harmful.

NON RESISTENT
Concentrated cold
or dilute hot mineral
acids such as
sulphuric acid, will
destroy it (Cellulosic
fibers; Wool fibers)
RESISTANT
to dilute acids.
Although wool is
damaged by hot
sulphuric acid, it is
not affected by
other acids, even
when heated.

IDENTIFICATION OF FIBERS
VISUAL
INSPECTION
Can identify a fabric
by its appearance
but accuracy in
identifying comes
through experience.
The appearance
properties of
different fibers can
help in identifying a
fabric. Ex:
- Silk is smooth,
shiny and fine.
- Cotton is also
smooth but looks
dull;
- Wool is most
definitely rough
looking.

BURNING TEST

CHEMICAL TEST

Burning test is a
simple and reliable
test. The burning
test does not
identify the fiber in
particular but
indicates its group.
- Cotton, flax and
rayon will have
similar results
when burnt as
they are all
basically
cellulosic in
nature.
- Cotton, Linen,
Coir smell of
burning paper.
- Silk, wool- smell
of burning hair.

Final verification of
fibers is done by this
test.

Acetone
100%

Hydrochloric Sulfuric acid Sulfuric acid


acid 20%
60%
70%

ACETATE

Soluble

Insoluble

Soluble

ACRYLIC

Insoluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

COTTON

Insoluble

Insoluble

HAIR

Insoluble

Insoluble

HEMP

Insoluble

Insoluble

LINEN

Insoluble

Insoluble

Slightly
soluble
Insoluble
Slightly
soluble
Slightly
soluble

Chlorine
bleach 5%

Formic acid
90%

Soluble
Insoluble
depending on
type

Insoluble

Soluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

Soluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

Soluble

Insoluble

Soluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

Soluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

Solubleor
Insoluble
MODARYLIC
depending on
type

Insoluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

NYLON
OLEFIN
POLYESTER

Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble

Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble

Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble

Insoluble
Insoluble
Insoluble

Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble

RAMIE

Insoluble

Insoluble

Soluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

RAYON

Insoluble

Soluble

Insoluble

SILK

Insoluble

Soluble

Soluble

Soluble

Wool

Insoluble

Insoluble
Partially
Soluble
Insoluble

Soluble
Insoluble
Insoluble
Slightly
soluble
Soluble

Insoluble

Insoluble

Soluble

Insoluble
Partially
soluble
Insoluble

Visual Diagnostics of Some Common Textile Fibers


under Magnification

FOCUS ON
NATURAL FIBERS

COTTON

Cottonis a soft, fluffy staplefiberthat grows in aboll, Under


natural conditions, the cotton bolls will tend to increase the
dispersion of the seeds.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON


Color

White, creamy white, bluish


white, yellowish white or
grey.
Textile Strength 3.5gm/den.
Elongation at
5-10%.
break
Specific Gravity 1.54
Moisture
Regain*(MR%):

Standard moisture regain is


8.5

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON


Elastic Recovery
Effect of Sunlight

Effect of age

Effect of Heat

It is inelastic and rigid


fiber
gradual
loss
of
strength when cotton
is exposed to sunlight
and the fiber turns
yellow.
It shows a small loss
of
strength
when
stored carefully
cotton is severely
damaged after few
minutes at 240C

BURNING TEST OF
COTTON
In Flame

Ignites immediately

Removed From
Flame

Continues to burn

Odor

Burning paper or
wood
Light ash, blows away

Ash

ADVANTAGES OF COTTON
Environmentally friendly (only if organic - the process of
producing organic cotton is totally natural and pesticidefree. )
Durable
Is an excellent material for humid climates as it allows air
to flow and around the skin, creating a cooling effect. It
also absorbs the sweat and moisture from your body
which keeps you dry and more comfortable.
DISADVANTAGES OF COTTON
Cotton clothes will begin to fade after a few years,
particularly if left in direct sunlight.
Cotton is not a very weatherproof fabric. If left outside it is
also likely to be damaged by mold and mildew. Man-made
fabrics tend to be much tougher, and mold resistant

BURNING TEST

BURN CHARACTER: It burns


quickly and may flare up
when lit. It gives a steady
flame/yellow flame. After
burning, it continues to glow.
SMOKE/SMELL: burning
paper. The smoke is gray or
white.
RESIDUE: The ash is fine and
soft and can be easily
crumbled. It is dark
coloured.

BURN TEST VIEW

How It's
Made
COTTON
YARN
video

https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH_b3He
o48I

JUTE FIBER

JUTE
Jute is also called "the golden fiber" for its
color and high cash value.
It falls into theBAST FIBRE category
It is the second most important vegetable
fiber after cotton, in terms of usage, global
consumption, production, and availability.

Length

Physical
Properties

1.5-4mm

Diameter

0.015-0.020mm

Moisture
Regain(MR%)
Resiliency

13.75%

COLOR

Strength(Tenacity)

white, off-white,
yellow, brown,
grey, golden
3-4 gm/denier

Elongation

1.7% at the break

BAD

Physical Properties
Dimensional
Stability

Good

Abrasion
Resistance

Average

Effect of light and


heat

Average

Effect of Micro
organism

Good(better than
cotton)

BURNING TEST FOR JUTE


In Flame
Removed From
Flame
Odor
Ash

Ignites
immediately
Continues to burn,
doesnt shrink
from flame
Burning paper or
wood
Light colored

ADVANTAGES OF JUTE FIBERS


Under stress jute extends only 0.5% to its
stable form and so gives wonderful
dimensional stability.
Protecting Environment
The hairy surface of jute fabric gives it a
capacity to grip
DISADVANTAGES OF JUTE FIBERS
The crease resistance of Jute is very low.
Drape Property is not good enough.
Create Shade effect and becomes yellowish
if sunlight is used.
If Jute is wetted it lose its strength

BURN TEST
Burn Character: burns
quickly with bright flame
Smoke/Smell: burning
paper, burning leaves or
wood
Residue: It leaves no
melted bead and after
burning no sign of flame
is seen. The ash is gray
and smoke has no fume
hazard.

BURN TEST VIEW

END-USES OF JUTE GOODS

Bags and sacks for packing almost all kinds


of agricultural products, minerals, fertilizer,
cement
Wool packs and cotton bales
Wrapping materials
Carrier and backing fabric for carpet and
linoleum
Cordage and twines
Webbing and fabric to cover inner springs
in auto seats and upholster furniture
Cargo separator in ship

END-USES OF JUTE GOODS


Brattice cloth for mine ventilation and
partition
Filling material in cable
Roofing and floor covering apparel
Footwear lining
Wall covering and furnishing fabric
Fashion accessories
Jute geo-textile for erosion control and
many more.

END APPLICATIONS

Fibre to
Fabric Cotton, Jute
- video

https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxvNiy
nMmk4

FLAX FIBER

FLAX FIBER

Tensile Strength:
Linen is a strong fiber.

Elongation at break: Linen does not stress easily.

Color: The colour of linen fiber is yellowish to grey.

Length: 18 to 30 inch in length.

Lustre: It is brighter than cotton fiber and it is slightly silky.

Easily washed, retains shape.

Resistant to moths, oil, and chemicals.

Superior resistance to sunlight degradation.

END USES OF FLAX FIBER

BURN TEST
Burn Character: it
takes longer to ignite.
It is easily
extinguished by
blowing on it.
Smoke/Smell :
burning paper.
Residue: fine gray
ash.

BURN TEST VIEW

How Linen Is
Made
video

https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=24yQ5R
8On2U

SILK FIBER

PROPERTIES & USES OF SILK

SILK FIBER
Effect of sunlight - Silk is more sensitive light than any
other natural fibre. Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause
partially spotted color change. Yellowing of silk fibre is
generally occurred due to photo degradation by the action of
UV radiation of sunlight.
Heat conductivity: like wool, silk is a protein fibre and is a
non-conductor of heat.
Absorbency: Silk fiber can absorb about 11% of its weight in
moisture but range varies from 10%-30%.
Lustre: high lustrous fiber.

SILK FIBER
Draping quality: silk fibre is flexible enough and
if used to make garments then the fabric drapes
well
Elongation - Silk fibre has an elongation at break
of 20-25% under normal condition.

SILK FIBER
BURN TEST

Burn Character: burns


slowly and curls away from
the flame. /self-extinguishing.
Smoke/Smell: It smells like
burned hair or charred meat.
It gives out little or no smoke
and the fume has no hazard.
Residue: Doesn't shrink from
flame. It leaves a dark
irregular soft bead which can
be easily crushed. The ash is
a dark, gritty, fine powder.

BURN TEST VIEW

How Its
Made Silk
video

https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqFm_7K
yfHI

WOOL FIBER

WOOL FIBER
Non allergenic wool is not known to cause allergy and does not
promote the growth of bacteria. With microscopic scales, wool
fibres can trap dust in the top layers until vacuumed away.
Durable and elastic wool fibre can be bent 20,000 times
without breaking and still have the power to recover and return to
its natural shape. Quality wool garments look good for longer.
Easy care modern wool can be machine-washed; retaining a
small amount of natural oil, wool fibre resists dirt and grease.
Multi-Climatic wool acclimatizes to its surroundings.

WOOL FIBER
Effect of Resilience: Wool fibers can be stretched up to 50
percent of their original length when wet and 30 percent when
dry.
Effect of Organic Solvent: Wool does not affect in organic
solvents.
Effects of Insects: Wool affected by insects.
Effect of bleach: Chlorine bleach is ordinary harmful to the
wool. KMnO4, Na2O2 are utilized for bleaching.

WOOL FIBER

BURNING TEST
Burn Character: It burns
slowly. It sizzles and curls
away from flame and may curl
back onto fingernail (like
human hair). It is selfextinguishing
Smoke/Smell: It gives out a
strong smell of burning hair or
feathers. It gives out dark
smoke and moderate fume.
Residue: It leaves irregular
hollow beads that are brittle,
dark, and easily crushed. It
leaves harsh ash from
crushed bead.
Notes: shrinks from flame.

BURN TEST VIEW

How Its
Made Wool
video

https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibC7Vhlb
Enk

FOCUS ON
MAN MADE FIBERS

SYNTHTICS

POLYESTER FIBER

PROPERTIES OF POLYESTER
Any of numerous synthetic fiber
produced from coal, air, water, and
FIBER
petroleum products.

They are light and strong and weather resistant and easy to wash.

Resistant to stretching and shrinking and most chemicals

Quick drying

Crisp and resilient when wet or dry

Abrasion resistant

Able to retain heat-set pleats and creases

Very strong

Satisfactory draping quality

PROPERTIES OF POLYESTER
Very low absorbency.
FIBER

Heat conductivity better than acrylic.

Good resistance when exposed to light.

Good resistance to bleaches.

Fair resistant to alkalis at room temperature.

Good resistance to acids.

Resistant to insects.

BURN TEST
Burn Character: It burns
quickly and shrinks away from
flame, may also flare up. After
the flame, it burns slowly and
is not always selfextinguishing.
Smoke/Smell: It has a slightly
sweet chemical odour and its
black smoke and fume are
hazardous.
Residue: no ash is left. It
leaves hard, dark, and round
beads.
Notes: melted fiber drips black
smoke.

BURN TEST
VIEW

ACRYLIC

Acrylic is also called acrilan fabric


Acrylic fibersaresynthetic fibersmade from a
polymer (polyacrylonitrile) = natural gas and
petroleum.
DuPontcreated the first acrylic fibers in 1941 and
trademarked them under the nameOrlon.

BURNING TEST FOR ACRYLIC


In Flame
Removed From
Flame
Odor

Burns Quickly
Continues To Melt

Ash

Plastic Looking Bead

Acidic Odor

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity
Density

2-4.2 gm/den
1.16 gm/cc

Elongation at break

20 to 55%

Elasticity
Moisture Regain(MR
%)

Good
1-2.5%

Resiliency

Good

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Melting point

230C

Ability to protest
friction
Color
Light reflection ability

Good

Ability to protest heat

It can protest up to
150C temperature

Lusture

Bright to light

White or grey white


Good

ADVANTAGES OF ACRYLIC FIBER


They are light weight but have more
bulk.
They are odor and mildew resistant too
Cleans easily.
A transparency rate of 93% makes acrylic
the clearest material known.
DISADVANTAGES OF ACRYLIC FIBER
It is more expensive than glass.
If exposed to a direct flame it will melt
and eventually burn.

BURN TEST
Burn Character: It flare up at
match-touch, shrink from
flame, burn rapidly with hot
sputtering flame and drip
dangerously. They continue
melting after flame is removed
and are self-extinguishing.
Smoke/Smell: a strong acrid,
fishy odor. the black smoke
and fume are hazardous.
Residue: no ash is left just
beads that are hard, dark, and
with irregular shapes.
Notes: melted fiber drips
black smoke.

BURN TEST VIEW

END-USES OF ACRYLIC
FOR CLOTHING: Sweaters, Women's and Children's
Wear, Sports Wear, Socks, Knitted Underwear,
Pajamas, Gloves, etc
FOR HOME FURNISHINGS AND BEDDING:
Carpets, A Variety of Rugs, Upholstery, Cushions,
Blankets, Pile Sheets, etc.
FOR INDUSTRIAL USES: Felts for Paper Making,
Filter Cloth, Alternative Asbestos, Tents, Sheet, etc.
FOR OTHER USES: Rag Doll, Toys, Auxiliary Tapes
for Bags, Braids, Cloth for Bags, Wigs, etc.

NYLON FIBER

NYLON
Nylon with Polythene
Braided yarn
Nylonis

generic

designation

synthetic polymersknown

for

generically

a
as

family

of

aliphatic

polyamides made from petroleum.


Nylon was intended to be a synthetic replacement for

silkIt replaced silk in military applications such as


parachutesandflak vests, and was used in many types
of vehicle tires

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity

6.0-8.5 gm/den

Density

1.14 gm/cc

Elongation at break

15-45%

Elasticity

Very good

Moisture Regain(MR
%)

3.5-5%

Resiliency

Good

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Melting point

215C

Ability to protest
friction
Color

Excellent
White

Light reflection ability Not good


Ability to protect heat Upto 150C
Lusture

Bright to light

BURNING TEST FOR NYLON


In Flame

Melts slowly

Removed From
Flame
Odor

Self extinguishes

Ash

Plastic bead

Unidentified odor

ADVANTAGES

High elongation

Excellent abrasion resistance

Highly resilient (nylon fabrics are heat-set)

High resistance to: insects, fungi and animals, molds,


mildew, rot, many chemicals

DISADVANTAGES

Attacked by oxidizing agents

High shrinkage in molded sections

environmental problems regarding its lack of being


biodegradable

END USES OF NYLON


Womens hosiery
Lingerie
Active sportswear
Soft floor coverings
Carpeting
Industrial uses include: Tire cord, machine parts,

such as gears and bearings


Automotive uses: Belts, Ropes, Parachute fabric

rip-stop nylon, intake manifolds, gas (petrol) tanks


carpet fiber

END USES OF NYLON


fishing lines
footwear
pantyhose
Wind pants
toothbrush bristles
Velcro
airbag fiber
slings

and

slack lining

rope

used

in

climbing gear

and

BURN TEST
Burn Character: Due to their
fabric finish, they quickly burn
and shrink to flame. After
flame, they burn slowly and
melt. They are selfextinguishing but drip
dangerously.
Smoke/Smell: Their odor is
like celery and but the fume is
very hazardous.
Residue: they leave no ash,
just hard beads. The beads are
hard, grayish and uncrushable.
Notes: melted fiber drips.

BURN TEST VIEW

SPANDEX (LYCRA)

Monofilament yarn

Spandexorelastane or elastomeric fiberis a


synthetic fiberknown for its exceptionalelasticity.
The name "spandex" is an anagram of the word
"expands".It is the preferred name in
North America; in continental Europe it is referred
to by variants of "elastane",

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

Tenacity

0.7 gm/den

Density:

1.21-1.35 gm/cc

Elongation at break

400-700%

Elasticity

Excellent

Moisture Regain(MR%)

0.6%

Resiliency

Very Good

Ability to protest friction

Excellent

Color

White or near white

Ability to protest heat

Not good

Lustre

Less bright

BURNING TEST OF SPANDEX

In Flame

Melts slowly

Removed From
Flame

Self extinguishing

Odor

Acidic

Ash

Plastic bead

ADVANTAGES OF LYCRA

IT IS USED IN CLOTHING BECAUSE ITS


LIGHTWEIGHT, COMFORTABLE, AND
BREATHABLE.
DUE TO ITS FITTING NATURE IT IS OFTEN
USED IN WOMEN'S CLOTHING RATHER THAN
IN MEN'S CLOTHING.
IT DRIES QUICKLY, MOISTURE WICKING AND
IT IS EASY TO DYE.
IT HASBACTERIARESISTANT NATURE,
BLOCKS ULTRAVIOLET RAYS AND SO IT IS
USED IN GARMENTS.
GARMENTS THAT ARE MADE USING LYCRA
ARE SOCKS,SWIMWEAR, EXERCISE
CLOTHING AND LEGGINGS.

DISADVANTAGES OF LYCRA
SINCE IT IS TIGHT-FITTING, NONCYCLISTS FEEL HARD TO ACCEPT ITS
APPEARANCE.
SOCIAL ACCEPTANCE OF THIS TIGHTFITTING IS STILL SLOWLY BEING
IMPLEMENTED.
IF THE LYCRA IS BEING USED AS A BASE
FOR GLUING, AS MIGHT BE THE CASE
IN A FOAM BODYSUIT, THE GLUE WILL
TEND NOT TO SOAK IN THEFIBERSAND
YOU WILL NOT GET GOOD ADHERENCE.

END APPLICATIONS

How It's
Made
Recycled
Polyester
Yarn video

https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyF9Mxlc
Itw

MICRO FIBER

MICRO
FIBER
synthetic fiber very small in diameter

Microfiber is
making them
super soft. Their diameter is 1/100th the diameter of a human hair
and 1/20th the diameter of a strand of silk.
Microfiber combines two basic fibers, Polyester and Polyamide (a
Nylon by-product). These fibers are usually split and formed into a
woven fabric of 80% Polyester (the scrubbing and cleaning fiber),
and 20% Polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fiber).

GENERAL
PROPERTIES
OF
MICROFIBERS
-

Ultra-fine linear density (less than 0.1 dtex/f), finer than the most delicate
silk.
Extremely drapeable & Durability.
Very soft, luxurious hand with a silken or suede touch.
Washable and dry-cleanable.
Shrink resistance.
High strength, although the filaments are super fine.
Insulates well against wind, rain and cold.
Anti-microbial agents help to protect from the dangers of the bacteria that
cause odor and mildew.
Microfibre is hypoallergenic, and so does not create problems for those
suffering from allergies.
Microfibre is non-electrostatic.
Microfibres are super-absorbent, absorbing over 7 times their weight in water.
Microfiber dries in one-third of the time of ordinary fibres.
Microfibres are environmentally friendly
Improved breathability
Vivid prints with more clarity and sharper contrast
Appearance retention
Can be made windproof and water resistant
The greater fiber surface area also results in higher rates of dyeing at lower
temperatures, and decreased fastness to light, crocking (fastness to rubbing),
water & ozone.

FOCUS ON
MAN MADE FIBERS

NATURAL

(TRI)ACETATE FIBER

ACETATE FIBER
Triacetate is made by combining acetate with a cellulose pulp. This
produced a fibre which enhances certain of the properties already
found in acetate and diminishes somewhat some of the weaknesses of
acetate. Triacetate is often blended with cotton to improve wear and
performance of the latter, or with wool to counter shrinkage, improve
warmth and drip dry properties. It may also be combined with linen to
reduce the cost of the latter.

PROPERTIES OF ACETATE FIBER


Soft & smooth hand feel

Comfortable (breathes, wicks, dries quickly)

linings move with the body linings conform to the garment

deep brilliant shades with atmospheric dyeing meet colorfastness


requirements

light reflection creates a signature appearance

colorfast to perspiration staining, colorfast to dry cleaning, air and


vapor permeable

High melting point about 230 degree

No static problem

PROPERTIES OF ACETATE FIBER


Weak fiber with breaking tenacity of 1.2 to 1.4 g/d;

Rapidly loses strength when wet; must bedry cleaned

Poor resistant to abrasion.

Poor thermal retention; no allergenic potential (hypoallergenic)

Contains tenacity about 0.9-1.4 gm/den

Contains 6% moisture regain

Low resilient

Can be damaged by strong oxidizing agents

Resistant to mildew

low moister absorbancy, relative fast drying

BURN TEST
Burn Character: burns quickly and can flare even
after flame is removed. It melts into a very hot bead
and drips very dangerously.
Smoke/Smell: the smell is like hot vinegar or burning
pepper. It gives out black smoke and the fume is
hazardous.
Residue: No ash is left by it. The bead is hard, brittle,
and can't be crushed.

RAYON OR VISCOSE
BURN TEST
Burn Character: burns
rapidly. It burns without
flame or melting and may
flare up. After the flame is
removed, it may glow a bit
longer than cotton.
Smoke/Smell: burning
leaves.
Residue: Unless there is a
fabric finish, it doesn't
leave any bead. soft gray
ash. It's smoke is a little
hazardous.

BURN TEST VIEW

LYOCELL

TENCEL

MODAL

Lyocell is a form of rayon


which consists of
cellulose fibre made from
dissolving pulp (bleached
wood pulp) using dry jetwet spinning. It was
developed beginning in
1972.
As of 2010, Lyocell is
more expensive to
produce than cotton or
viscose rayon.

Lyocell fiber was


developed further as
Tencel in the 1980s.
Tencel is a sustainable
fabric, regenerated from
wood cellulose. It is
similar in hand to rayon
and bamboo, both
regenerated fabrics.
However, Tencel is one
of the most
environmentally friendly
regenerated fabrics

It is a type of rayon, a
semi-synthetic cellulose
fiber made by spinning
reconstituted cellulose,
in this case often from
beech trees.
Modal is used alone or
with other fibers (often
cotton or spandex)

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