Ocean Waves Chp 10

Newest Extreme Wave (2006) Shark Park off Channel Islands (San Miguel), CA

 Announcements
MIDTERM Monday 4pm
Covers: Chapters 1-9 (excluding Chp 7), (not Todays)
40 Multi Choice Qs
5 Short answer Qs
All based on Lecture Notes/Qs
Bring GREEN Scantron (Bookstore)
#2 Pencil

HW-3 due Wed

HW-4, HW-5 (Nat. Bridges) due w/ Final
See Syllabus (website) for details

 Announcements
Your Homework
Do it!

If you dont you loose 30-45% of your grade!!!

Turn it in!
DONT WAIT TILL THE LAST MINUTE
HELP me to HELP YOU

FYI HW-3, Skip Question d) on Page 6

OUTLINE

In Search of The Perfect Wave

Development of Wave Theory
What is a Wave?
Wave Theory
Analyzing Natural Waves
Wave Generation by Winds
Wave Interactions with Seafloor
Applications of Wave Theory

 In Search of The Perfect Wave (1966)

OUTLINE

In Search of The Perfect Wave

Development of Wave Theory
What is Wave?
Wave Theory
Analyzing Natural Waves
Wave Generation by Winds
Wave Interactions with Seafloor
Applications of Wave Theory

 Development of Wave Theory

Sir Isaac Newton (1642-1727)
First mathematical descriptions of waves, 1687 Principia.
Proposed motion of water particles in a wave was circular

Franz Gerstner (1756-1832)

Develops 1st primitive wave theory
Particles traveling at the crest of wave move up/forward
Particles traveling at the trough of wave move down/backward
Motions traced a circle
Height @ surface = Height of Wave

 Development of Wave Theory

Ernst Weber (1795-1878) - Anatomy Professor
Wilhelm Weber (1804-1891) - Physicist
Built first WAVE Tank
Confirmed Gersteners circular Motions.

Development of Wave Theory

WWII Securing a Beach Head
Commanders wanted to Known type of Sea Conditions
Walter Munk
(Army Corp. Engineers)

With Harald Sverdrup (SIO)

Undertake Surf forecasting
Prediction of waves @
Given location/time

1960s_Munks lifes work

Deploys buoy devices etc.
Alaska New Zealand

Munk Concludes
Predictions of surfing conditions @ Honolulu possible, but from what
I know of the Surfing profession I dont suggest this as a lucrative enterprise ???
. . .Before his time. . . But TODAY >>>>

 High Tech Surf Forecasts Now Exist

Web Cams, Reports, Forecasts/ Conditions etc.
Surfers
How Many?
1,736,000.
-Rode a wave
Once/year
Estimates
5 -17 million. . .
Overall
1960s
10,000
Matt Warshaw
-Encyclopedia
of Surfing

 Development of Wave Theory

Technology Drives the Study of Waves
Wave Heights, Wind speeds, mea. using Satellites & Buoys

Major Application behind Study of Waves

Application to Coastal Engineering Problems
Vessel Safety @ Sea

OUTLINE

In Search of The Perfect Wave

Development of Wave Theory
What is a Wave?
Wave Theory
Analyzing Natural Waves
Wave Generation by Winds
Wave Interactions with Seafloor
Applications of Wave Theory

 What is a Wave?
Waves result from the movement of E through a medium
= progressive waves
e.g. oceanic, seismic, sound waves

Challenge Qs
What do Progressive Ocean waves arise from?
A disturbing Force
Force that Transmits E to the water column or surface via Wind or Earthquake
What are Waves from Episodic Events (e.g. Winds, Earthquakes) called?
Free Waves - travel without any further influ. of Disturbing force
What are Waves from Continual Events (e.g. tides) called?
Forced Waves - under continual influence of disturbing force
(e.g. gravity from Moon or Sun)

NOTE: Restoring Forces - Drain the Wave of its E

 What is a Wave?
Anatomy of a Wave
As E is transferred thru fluid the wave particles move in
circular motion aka orbital
Where is the Crest (Peak)?
Where is the Trough (Valley)

What is the Wavelength ()?

Dist. b/w peaks (crests)

What is the Wave height (h)?

Dist. b/w Crest - Trough

 What is a Wave?
Anatomy of a Wave
What is the Period of a Wave?
Amount of Time passing b/w wave peaks
(how far are the peaks apart in time)

What is the Wave frequency?

How often peaks are passing same point in time

 What is a Wave?
Classification of Waves
According to their?

Period
Wavelength
Frequency
Distributing force

 What is a Wave?
Summary
int

OUTLINE

In Search of The Perfect Wave

Development of Wave Theory
What is a Wave?
Wave Theory
Analyzing Natural Waves
Wave Generation by Winds
Wave Interactions with Seafloor
Applications of Wave Theory

 Wave Theory
Mathematical description of waves allows us to?
Predict behavior under diff. circumstances
Forecast their arrival on beaches

Surf forecasters make use of Wave theory to predict:

When & Where ocean waves have their greatest impact on shore.

 Wave Theory
Wave Speed (Velocity ~ V)
V = Wavelength / Period (Time) or

V=/T

Waves with different wavelengths and periods travel @ diff speeds

Since /T are proportional increases in Wind speed (C) lead to?
Increases in either Wavelength or Period or both
Note: the PERIOD does NOT change once Wave is formed

 Wave Theory
calculating wavelength ()

= T2g/2
T = period time
g = Acceleration of gravity 9.8 m/s-2 or (32 feet/sec)
= Pi ~ 3.1415

 Wave Theory
What are Shallow water waves?
Waves traveling in H2O whose depth is less than one-twentieth (1/20) of the
wavelength of the wave

What are deep water waves?

Waves whose propagation is NOT affected by the seafloor

What are intermediate water waves?

Surface waves in b/w the deep and shallow water approximations

or Velocity (V)

h/ > 1/2

1/20 > h/

 Wave Particle Motions

For Deep-water waves
Diameter of wave orbital
Based on Height

Challenge Question?
What happens to the diameter of
wave orbitals with depth?
They shrink (diminish)
disappear

 Wave Particle Motions

For Shallow-water waves
Diameter of wave orbital hits bottom
Becomes ovular b/c of:
friction/ drag effects etc.
e.g. notice Kelp moving
Back/ fourth

 Wave Energy (E)

E = 1/8 p g H2
P = water Density
g = accel. of gravity
H = height of Wave

~> 20 feet

~ 10 feet

WHAT TO KNOW
Equation states that:
E increases as the Square of the waves Height
i.e. if you 2X the wave height 4X Wave E!!!
e.g. 6 m (20 foot) wave has 4 Xs as much E as 3 m (10 foot) wave

OUTLINE

In Search of The Perfect Wave

Development of Wave Theory
What is a Wave?
Wave Theory
Analyzing Natural Waves
Wave Generation by Winds
Wave Interactions with Seafloor
Applications of Wave Theory

 Analyzing Natural Waves

Wave Interference
Challenge Questions
What is produced when Crests/ troughs of Waves are offset?
Destructive interference
Cancel each other out

What is produced when two wave Crests overlap exactly?

Constructive interference
Doubling of wave height!

 Wave Interference
Summary

 Wave E Spectrum
Knowing H and frequency of Waves wave E spectrum
@ given location / set of conditions exist?
Wave E spectrums

OUTLINE

In Search of The Perfect Wave

Development of Wave Theory
What is a Wave?
Wave Theory
Analyzing Natural Waves
Wave Generation by Winds
Wave Interactions with Seafloor
Applications of Wave Theory

 Wave Generation by Winds

From Atm. Winds to sea surface. . . .
Some wind E causes surface currents
Most Wind E waves
WIND

WIND WIND

WIND

 Wave Generation by Winds

Challenge Qs
What factors of wind determine the severity of the waves?
Speed of Wind
Length of Time in Blows (duration)
Distance over which it travels aka?
Fetch

Fetch

 From Calm to Fully Developed Sea

IT all starts with the Wind swells

Coming to a Shore
Near YOU!!!!

What are Swells?

Long wavelength - surface waves (group)
traveled long distances
(more stable then wind waves)

 From Calm to Fully Developed Sea

What is Wave Steepness ~ S ?
S = H/
Challenge Q
What happens when steepness exceeds 1/7 or (0.142) ?
e.g. wavelength = 7m, wave height 1m
the formation of White caps
Discovered aboard FLIP

0.16

OUTLINE

In Search of The Perfect Wave

Development of Wave Theory
What is a Wave?
Wave Theory
Analyzing Natural Waves
Wave Generation by Winds
Wave Interactions with Seafloor
Applications of Wave Theory

 Wave Interactions with Seafloor

When deep water waves hit seafloor what happens?

1) Friction slows down wave, decreases wavelength

2) Orbitals become ovular
3a) Height/steepness of Wave increases
3b) Wave overly steep: S > 1/7 Breaks!

 Wave Interactions with Seafloor

Bathymetry Matters
RECALL

TUBE a product of an ocean floor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BOhDaJH0m4&feature=related

 WAVES
Now the Whole Package Comes together
A SUMMARY of Some Concepts & Big Waves
http://www.kqed.org/quest/television/science-of-bigwaves

OUTLINE

In Search of The Perfect Wave

Development of Wave Theory
What is a Wave?
Wave Theory
Analyzing Natural Waves
Wave Generation by Winds
Wave Interactions with Seafloor
Applications of Wave Theory

 SURF Forecasting
Confirming your knowledge
What are the major factors u need to form Considerable Waves?
Fetch (long distance for wind to blow)
Sustained High winds
Bathymetry effects
Most intense waves occur where?
It gets Very shallow Very fast
And or the wave bends around an obstruction

Pipeline, HI

Challenge Question
Could Anyone really surf Lake Tahoe?
?

What conditions would be needed?

Sustained High Winds
Lots of Fetch
What direction?

Bathymetric
Obstruction
where?

1600

So Locate the best Possible Surf break?

 11/29/2009- Powerful Winter Storm Hits Tahoe Basin

60-100 mph Winds from South!
It Can been done! and Was!!!

Munk would be proud

 Applications of Wave Theory

Tsunamis
A real Serious Threat!

Warning System (when earthquake registers Send the Alert)

Few minutes all you need get to Higher Ground (2nd story)

 Applications of Wave Theory

Tsunamis
Generated by vertical displacement of seafloor
(earthquakes)
Landslides
Eruptions

Do they Have Large or Small Wavelengths?

Very Large: When reach shore, What Happens?
a Big WAVE!

Challenge Question?
If out to see in row boat earthquake/ Tsunami Hits
Could you notice a change in sea level change?
NO b/c the very longggggg wavelength
Small sea surface height change/time

 Applications of Wave Theory

Tsunamis
Generated by vertical displacement of seafloor
Creates upsurge of Water
Propagates outward
Very Tall waves
Exceed sea level
ANIMATION / Summary
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Xebwzb3dDE&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g15sZ_d2WUY&feature=related

 Applications of Wave Theory Final Thoughts

Knowing what we Know about Waves
What can we do?
Early detection of Earthquakes etc.
Tsunami Warning System

Erosion Next Time (Beaches/ Tides etc.)

Can we make our own surf?

 Applications of Wave Theory

Human Made Surf Breaks?
A potential Reality
Will Bournemouth Surf Reef Ever Produce Waves? Australia

JUST NEED THE RIGHT conditions

-Pending . . .
http://www.kqed.org/quest/television/science-of-big-waves

 Remember Midterm Monday

Green Scantron
Study your notes

Have a Peaceful Weekend

ROGUE waves
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deX7R9RbmX0&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElpzfM5knYA&feature=related

Tsunami Graphic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Xebwzb3dDE&feature=related
Tsunami CBS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g15sZ_d2WUY&feature=related