Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Shrinkage:
Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than
its original size, usually through the process of laundry.Cotton
fabric suffers from two main disadvantages of shrinking and
creasing during subsequent washing.
1) Length wise
2) Width wise
Shrinkage
Cause:
Due to high tension during preparation of fabric which result in
excess stretch in yarn. This type of shrinkage is known as London
shrinkage. Due to swelling of fibers for fiber structure.
Glass plate
Illustration of Shrinkage on Woven Fabric Caused
by Fiber and Yarn Swelling
Shrinkage : Types
There are Two Kinds of Fabric Shrinkage:
1. Relaxation Shrinkage
2. Progressive Shrinkage
Relaxation Shrinkage
This occurs because the fibers and yarns are under tension when
the fabrics are made. Later when the fabric is wet in a tensionless
condition, relaxation occurs.
Progressive Shrinkage
This occurs each time a fabric is laundered. Unlike relaxation
shrinkage which occurs only once, progressive shrinkage
continues and the fabric shrinks a bit more with each laundering.
Of the major fibers, only wool and viscose rayon are subject to
progressive shrinkage.
Shrinkage: Types
Relaxation shrinkage:
During manufactures fabrics and their component yarns are
subjeceted to tension under varying conditions of temperature
and moisture content, after manufacturing when the fabric is
taken from the machine and keep on floor or store room, then
the fabric tends to shrink, this type shrinkage is called relaxation
shrinkage.
Felting shrinkage:
In case of wool fibers dimensional changes can be magnified by
felting shrinkage. When untreated wool fibers are subjected to
mechanical action in the presence of moisture.
Compressive shrinkage:
A process in which fabric is caused to shrink in length by
compression. The process often referred to as controlled
compressive shrinkage.
Residual shrinkage:
after washing the fabric is shrunk. This type of shrinkage is
Shrinkage : Causes-Influencing factors
Causes:
Shrinkage is mainly due to yarn swelling and the resulting crimp
increase during washing in case of cotton fabrics. Yarn swelling
percentage is more in polyester cotton blending yarn.
Influencing factors:
Twist factor: twist factor increases so that shrinkage will be
increases.
Stitch length: stitch length increases so that shrinkage will be
increases.
GSM: GSM increases so that shrinkage will be decreases.
Elasticity of yarn.
Shrinkage : Factors
The factors that control shrinkage in fabrics or garments
are:
The Micrex
Process
Processing Shrinkage:
All processing steps in a dyeing and finishing plant and in an
apparel manufacturing operation affect the dimensions of a
product. Some techniques have more impact than others. These
steps create processing shrinkage, which can be defined as the
dimensional change that a process adds to or removes from the
construction shrinkage of a fabric, and thereby changes the
residual shrinkage accordingly. Length and width dimensions are
both affected, and the fabrics may either be stretched or
consolidated. Most often, the length is stretched and the width is
reduced during wet processing. Some of this shrinkage is
composed of elastic shrinkage and can be easily recovered while
some of the change in dimensions may not be recovered, because
the elastic limits of the fabric as constructed have been exceeded.
Drying Shrinkage
Drying Shrinkage:
Drying shrinkage is defined as dimensional change in a fabric
when deswelling of fiber, yarn, and construction occurs in the
drying step. The structure shrinks upon itself as a result of the
physics of drying.
This swelling and deswelling phenomena along with mechanical
action is used in the AATCC Test Method 135-03. The test
uses a washing machine to wet out (swell) the fiber/fabric under
tensionless conditions and a tumble dryer to apply energy in the
form of mechanical tumbling with heat to deswell and fully relax
the fabric/garment. Tumble drying without restrictions (tension) is
a form of mechanical compression and allows for maximum
drying shrinkage to take place.
Elastic Shrinkage:
Elastic shrinkage is defined as a change in dimensions of a fabric as a
result of the ability of the fabric to freely relax from tensions experienced
during construction and other processing. In the case of cotton greige
knit goods, tensions in forming the knitted loop, from the takedown and
from spreader mechanisms on a knitting machine, are examples of
stresses that may induce elastic shrinkage, which becomes a part of the
construction shrinkage. The stress in transporting of fabric in bleaching
and dyeing machines as well as finishing operations will also induce
elastic shrinkage. Normally, the recovery from elastic stresses
(realization of elastic shrinkage) is fairly spontaneous when these
stresses are relieved, especially in a dry medium.
Shrinkage test:
Testing time: After dryer or before compacting.
Equipment used: Shrinkage board ,shrinkage scale,
measurement tape, scissor, washing machine, detergent.
Principle:
The specimen is conditioned in the specified standard
atmosphere and measured before subjection to the appropriate
washing and drying procedure. After drying and conditioning and
measuring of the specimen, the changes in dimensions are
calculated.
.
Working Procedure:Shrinkage Test
Working Procedure:
The sample which is done shrinkage test, spread on table. Then a
glass template put on sample fabric which is square size. There are
six mark on glass template and distance between two mark is 35 cm.
Marking the sample fabric by unchangeable marker. Then sample is
sewn by hand sewing machine. Sample is ready for washing. Simple
wash the fabric at 60c temp for 90 min. after washing the fabric is
taken out. Dry the sample as per any of the method. It can either be
Line Dry or Flat Dry or Tumble Dry.To find the dimensional change
read the Shrinkage/Stretch on 3 points on the Wrap side and 3 points
on Weft Side.Get the mean value of wrap-wise and weft wise
readings to get the Accurate Shrinkage or Stretch.
Working Procedure:Shrinkage Test
Procedure:
3. Two fine tipped black & yellow fabric markers are supplied
for accurate marking on light & dark color fabrics.
Example,
length of fabric before wash = 35 cm
length of fabric after wash = 33 cm
Now, Shrinkage % = {(35-33)/ 33} * 100
= 6%
Here, Shrinkage is 6%. Normally shrinkage is acceptable less than
5%. But it can be change in case of buyer requirement.
Calculation for shrinkage percentage:
Calculation for shrinkage percentage:
Where,
Lo = the distance between the datum line before
washing and
L1 = the distance between datum lines after
washing.
Expression of results:
Expression of results:
1. Calculate the mean changes in dimensions in both the length
and width directions accordance with the arrangement in ISO
3759 as follows:
Lycra Single
Lacoste -7.00 -7.00
1X1 Rib -7.00 -7.00
Lycra 1X1 Rib -7.00 -7.00
2X2 Rib -8.00 -8.00
Lycra 2X2 Rib -8.00 -8.00
Interlock -7.00 -7.00
Terry Fleece -5.00 -5.00
FOR 100% COTTON PLAIN
SINGLE JERSEY
ect of GSM on Shrinkage (Tumble Dry):
Samp Shrinkage
le No. 120 GSM 130 GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180 GSM
Lengt Width Lengt Width Lengt Width Lengt Width Lengt Widt
h wise h wise h wise h wise h h
wise wise wise wise wise wise
01 -6.5% -5% -4.4% -5% -3.62 -1.96 -3.32 -2.18 -2.18 -2.08
- -
02 4.51 4.16 -3.74 -2.09 -3.7 -0.96 -3.17 -2.5 -2.72 -2.13
% %
03 -5.74 -2.41 -4.15 -4.9 -3.43 -6.06 -3.37 -2.33 -2.74 -2.17
04 -4.44 -3.92 -4.22 -3.37 -3.18 -4.12 -2.94 -2.29 -1.17 -2.19
Now that shrinkage has been defined, the factors that have an
impact on performance will be looked at in detail. There are
many factors that relate to shrinkage. These include the fiber,
the yarn size and type, construction variables, wet processes,
finishing procedures, apparel manufacturing techniques, and
garment care methods.
Yarns, of course, are made with fibers and exhibit the same
characteristics as the fiber. Yet the manner these fibers are
oriented in a yarn will affect certain properties of the fabric
including shrinkage. Cotton singles yarns of high twist will
usually yield higher shrinkage values than yarns of lower twist
levels and will certainly yield greater skewing or torqueing.
Rotor spun