Ecofashion:itsnotjustapassingtrenditsheretostay.

Ashish Raw
Fashion Design (2009-2013)
Introduction

Ecological fashion refers to a segment of the fashion industry where

the practices of design, production, distribution, usage and disposal
of a fashion garment have a benign impact on the environment.
These practices along with the values of global equity, fair trade,
social justice and responsibility are interconnected and form a solid
relationship.
Eco-fashion, refers to the use of environmentally sensitive fabrics,
responsible production techniques and ethical business
practice. Clothes and accessories that are made from natural
products such as hemp, bamboo, seaweed, wool or pinewood;
organic raw materials such as cotton grown without the use of
chemical fertilizers and pesticides are termed as eco friendly.
 Eco fashion has become one of the lifestyle issues of the twenty-first
century with some designers in the global and local fashion arenas,
developing their collections around this concept. It needs to:
remain a trend.
become best practice supported by all involved with the development
and production of eco fashion
. .
be sustainable and thereby ensuring a healthier environment.
Methodology
The methodology employed to review this paper is through
secondary research. I have collected articles and research papers
from different authors who have researched on eco fashion. I have
written my review paper on the basis of the information available
from the published articles, journals and research papers.
LiteratureReview
At present, eco-fashion is a very broad term.
Literature demonstrates that eco-fashion is the result
of the unification of the journalistic jargon of the 26.5
million employee and one trillion dollars worth global
fashion industry, and academic research on
sustainability. Terms that the industry uses to describe
eco-fashion are: green, sustainable and organic. Eco-
fashion first made its appearance in the 1990s with
consumers actively showing an interest in
environmental and ethical issues, vocalized by
pressure groups, GMOs, the press and international
conferences. Slowly many designers started using
ethically and organically produced fabrics for their
designs, but the main debut of ecological fashion was
during the New York Fashion Week of
Spring/Summer 2005, when the non-profit Earth
Pledge teamed up with upscale clothing retailer
Barneys to sponsor a special runway event called
Future Fashion.
Sustainable fashion belongs to the growing sustainability trend, which
in the fashion industry is directly linked to the philosophy of
sustainable design and production. Sustainability is described as
the development that meets the needs of the present without
compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own
needs". Since sustainable fashion is based on those parameters, it
can be considered to be a direct offspring of the ecology movement.
Green or organic fashion represents products that have been
designed, produced & distributed by organic, green or sustainable
methods.
Fashion classified as ecological, takes under consideration the effect
that it has as on the environment during its production process, but
also with the people involved. Thus, the ethics aspect of the industry
adds another dimension to the definition of eco-fashion.
 Organic cotton

Eco-fashion, refers to the use of

environmentally sensitive fabrics,
responsible production
techniques and ethical business
practice. Clothes and
accessories that are made from
natural products such as hemp,
bamboo, seaweed, wool or Organic bamboo
pinewood; organic raw materials fabric
such as cotton grown without the
use of chemical fertilizers and
pesticides are termed as eco
friendly. hemp

Organic wool
Eco fashion has changed from a trend into
a movement. From consumers to the
media and the fashion industry itself, the
roots of long-term, fundamental change
have taken hold. Consumer research
shows that there is an unprecedented
surge in concern with who makes clothes,
how they are treated and how the
manufacturing process affects the
environment. The mass media and high-
fashion glossies carry reports on how it is
cool to care. Businesses and retailers
have also caught on to the fact that it pays
to be ethical; while the costs for
companies doing nothing get ever-higher.
The Future Fashion show organized by the New York-based nonprofit
Earth Pledge has inspired many top designers to work with
sustainable fabrics for the first time. Several designers have since
made pledges to use organic fabrics in their creations. High end
designers and stores are now beginning to pay attention to make eco-
friendly fashion available. Barneys has commissioned sustainable
lines from Theory, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Stella McCartney. It also plans
to have its Christmas windows and catalog showcase green fashion.
To date, Banana Republic, Guess, and H&M have also launched
green lines, making sure that they don't lose out on the increasing
demand and popularity of all things green.
Wal-Mart has publicized a major initiative aimed at helping cotton
farmers go organic by buying transitional cotton at higher, certified-
organic prices, thus helping to expand the supply of a key sustainable
material.
 Future Fashion

An Ingeo and recycled

polyester affair by
Heatherette. Habitual's organic cotton shirt
and denim jeans
A bamboo bodysuit with organic
wool sweater by VPL
2005
Maison Martin Margiela's
Stella McCartney's
ball gown made with three
summer dress made from
vintage wedding dresses
organic cotton

Rodarte's abaca,
cotton and silk cocktail dress
2008
 Efforts have been made to produce organic cotton, but cultivation is
likely to remain intensive since millions of small farmers from Third
World countries depend on it. An ideal alternative to cotton would be a
fast-growing plant, resistant to pests and illnesses, producing natural
anti-bacterial fabric, like the eco-friendly bamboo, which grows in
various countries and climates. Or other plants, like lempur, kapok,
hemp, jute.

Another issue is the wide use of chemicals in the treatment of fabrics:

chlorine-containing products used for bleaching and dyes containing
heavy metal not to mention the over-consumption of water and
detergents needed. However, the use of natural dyes requires highly
toxic mordants and chemical manipulations, (like for traditional indigo)
which doesnt make them more ecological than synthetic dyes.
Environmentalists are also concerned with the massive amounts of
clothes that are disposed of as waste each year both second-hand
clothing that has not outlived its life cycle and huge unsold stocks.
.
There are few options for this waste: either
incineration and landfill disposal or recycling. It is
technically possible to make new clothes out of
recycled cotton, which is broken down to fibre
form and then re-spun into coloured fibre yarn.
These environmental issues have raised equally
important questions on the labour conditions of
the workers in developing countries. Concepts
like Fair Trade and Ethical Fashion promote
international standards for labour: no child
labour, no excessive working hours, reasonable
wages, no exposure to dangerous and toxic
materials resulting in various diseases, a safe
and healthy workplace, and preservation of traditional
crafts.
 Year 2009 was declared as International Year of Natural Fibres by the
United Nations.
International Year of Natural Fibres 2009 aims at raising global
awareness of the importance of natural fibres not only to producers
and industry, but also to consumers and the environment.

Why choose natural fibres?

Naturalfibresareahealthychoicenatural fibres provide natural

ventilation. Wool garments act as insulators against both cold and heat
Bedouins wear thin wool to keep themselves cool. Coconut fibres
used in mattresses have natural resistance to fungus and mites. Hemp
fibre has antibacterial properties, and studies show that linen is the
most hygienic textile .
Naturalfibresarearesponsiblechoice
Natural fibres are of major economic importance to many developing
countries and vital to the livelihoods and food security of millions of
small-scale farmers and processors. They include10 million people in
the cotton sector in West and Central Africa, 4 million small-scale jute
farmers in Bangladesh and India, one million silk industry workers in
China, and 120 000 alpaca herding families in the Andes. By choosing
natural fibres we boost the sector's contribution to economic growth and
help fight hunger and rural poverty.
Naturalfibresareasustainablechoice
The emerging "green" economy is based on energy efficiency,
renewable feed stocks in polymer products, industrial processes that
reduce carbon emissions and recyclable materials. Natural fibres are a
renewable resource. Growing one tonne of jute fibre requires less than
10% of the energy used for the production of polypropylene.
Naturalfibresareafashionablechoice
Natural fibres are at the heart of an eco-fashion or "sustainable clothing"
movement that seeks to create garments that are sustainable at every
stage of their life cycle, from production to disposal. Natural fibre
producers, textile manufacturers and the clothing industry need to be
aware of, and respond to, the opportunities provided by growing demand
for organic cotton and wool, for recyclable and biodegradable fabrics,
and for "fair trade" practices that offer producers higher prices and
protect textile industry workers.
Abaca- Once a favoured source of rope,
abaca shows promise as an energy-saving
replacementforglassfibresinautomobiles
Ramie

Coir- A coarse, short fibre extracted from

theoutershellofcoconuts,coirisfoundin
ropes,mattresses,brushes,geotextilesand
automobileseats
Camel hair
Cotton- Pure cellulose, cotton is the
world'smostwidelyusednaturalfibreand
still the undisputed "king" of the global
textilesindustry
Sisal

Alpaca wool- Alpaca is used to make

high-end luxury fabrics, with world
productionestimatedataround
5000tonnesayear
Flax
Wool- Limited supply and exceptional
characteristicshavemadewooltheworld's
premiertextilefibre

Hemp- Recent advances in the

"cottonization" of hemp fibre could open
the door to the high quality clothing
market

Angora wool
Jute-Thestrongthreadsmadefromjute
fibreareusedworldwideinsackcloth-and
helpsustainthelivelihoodsofmillionsof
smallfarmers

Cashmere
Silk-DevelopedinancientChina,where
itsusewasreservedforroyalty,silk
remainsthe"queenoffabrics"
 Considering a fashion products whole life span, about 45% of
fashion products can have a second or third life cycle prior to their
disposal. Since none of these categories require new fibres to be
grown, their impact on the environment -Carbon Footprint- for
production is minimal; thus, they qualify to be part of the eco-
fashion market segment. Products in their second life cycle are
categorized as second-hand, vintage, and refurbished. Vintage or
second-hand fashion products are garments that are of no use to
their original owner and are resold to another person.
Baseball Puffball Dress, made
from 26 nylon baseball jackets.
Sports uniforms were originally
designed to be hi-tech long lasting
uniforms, now they are non-
biodegradable and are often
discarded at the end of the
season.

Denim Dress, made from 41

pairs of Levi 501's. Jeans
were originally made to be a
long lasting workmen's
uniform, since becoming a
fashion garment they are
discarded long before their
use is over.
 The green consumer is no longer a niche target. Environmental
concerns translate into preferences for eco-friendly products,
especially for food and cars .In the United Kingdom, researches
show that at comparable price and performance, consumers would
rather purchase a green product and fashion does not seem ignored
by this eco-preference .As with many trends, young people seem to
lead the way to ethical behaviors in fashion by rejecting animal furs.
They are also promoting an eco-chic lifestyle, which corresponds to
the emergence of new forms of status-display via philanthropic or
environmental-friendly actions under the pressure of the economic
crisis. As stated in The Independent We used to spend our money
showing people how much money we have got; now we are
spending our money on supporting our moral concerns.
 Across the world, a growing segment of consumers are seeking
ethical or environmentally friendly products, which range from
organically grown product, to hairsprays, paper and in more recent
times clothing .For long, fashion and environmental concerns
seemed to be conflicting concepts, the first one implying products
with short lifecycles when the second one promotes durability,
sustainability and the reuse of products. Yet, a whole industry has
flourished around a number of brands devoted to being green such
as Veja or Patagonia and brands launching eco-collections such as
H&M, Zara or designers such as Marc Jacobs or Stella McCartney.
 Organic cotton t-shirts by ZARA

Recycled polyester dress by H&M

Eco collection by STELLA MCCARTNEY

 Ann-Kathrin Carstensen and Nuria Ana Schmidt, designers behind
the label Rita in Palma, work in collaboration with Turkish women in
Berlin to create the most beautiful accessories using traditional
crochet techniques. Focusing on the idea of a cultural exchange, the
label is recognized for it's fine craftsmanship, avant-garde designs,
and high-quality construction.

YOJ's philosophy is based on the responsibility that man must have

toward his fellow men and the Earth. Respecting nature and mankind,
YOJ only uses biological fibers and colors extracted from nature. Each
item is completely handmade, from the initial drawings to the final
tailoring details.

The latest eco-friendly fashion designer hails from Delhi, India. Ela by
Joyjit is a perfect balance of eco-friendly and edgy style. Using a wide
range of textures and hand woven embroidery details, Joyjit explores
the multi-faceted nature of sustainable fashion in his most recent
collection. Using un-dyed organic fabrics, there is a natural quality in his
effortlessly chic outfits.
 For consumers trying to balance their interests between consumption and the
environment, the pros and cons of green fashion are complex.

Fabrics made from bamboo or hemp, for example, are promoted as having
been raised without pesticides and also for growing much faster than cotton.
But the downside is that bamboo or hemp fibers are naturally tough and are
typically softened before being woven into fabric by using chemical
treatments, which cause more pollution.
Naturally softer fabrics made from soy have a mild impact compared to
cotton, according to environmental groups, but they are less durable, so
clothes wear out faster and have to be replaced more often which has an
environmental cost of its own.
Organic cotton, which has become trendy in recent years among eco-
conscious consumers because it is grown without pesticides, still represents
only a tiny fraction of the global cotton crop, about .02 percent, according to
statistics provided by several agencies. But organic cotton is not always used
in its pure state. The Department of Agriculture's standards do not regulate
textile production once cotton has been harvested, so as a fabric it may be
chemically treated, or printed with toxic dyes, and still be labeled as organic.
Though, it is still difficult to produce perfectly ecological garments on
a large scale. Clearly, the future of Eco-fashion depends on
scientific and technological innovation. The challenge will be to
produce anti-bacterial clothes, easily washed to save water, sun
protecting to face global warming, and durable enough to limit
waste All of this at the right price! Overall, Eco-fashion should be
the future and not just another fashion.
 ResultsandDiscussions
In my opinion, the success of eco fashion is currently largely dependent on
consumer participation, in other words consumer acceptance on eco fashion
products. The consumer buys what is required or needed, and might not be
not knowledgeable on eco fashion products or might not have an interest in
going green. Apart from this, current eco fashion products are pricier than
normal products. Success of eco fashion requires an intrinsic understanding
of the complexity in the development of eco fashion products and requires
that this should become best practice by all. By doing so, all products could
in future be considered as eco friendly.

Though, it is still difficult to produce perfectly ecological garments on a large

scale. Clearly, the future of Eco-fashion depends on scientific and
technological innovation. The challenge will be to produce anti-bacterial
clothes, easily washed to save water, sun protecting to face global warming,
and durable enough to limit waste All of this at the right price! Overall, Eco-
fashion should be the future and not just another fashion.
In a survey 120 respondents were recruited on a convenience basis,
half in France and half in Canada, 70 women and 50 men. Both
groups were perfectly matched on age and the Canadian group
mean. In both groups, the level of education was higher than
average; 2/3 of respondents had an undergraduate degree and 1/3 a
graduate degree. All respondents had higher than average level in
English. In addition, respondents in both groups were equally
interested in fashion
Environment protection, health impact and ethical concerns are the
best ranked motivations to engage in a green fashion purchase. Yet,
cross-cultural differences appear clearly in the appeal of organic
fashion. North American participants and respondents in the studies
have a positive image of the green fashion consumer who is
portrayed as much younger, trendy, sexy, self-confident and with a
unique style compared to the green consumer portrayed by the
European participants. For the latter, the green consumer is
perceived as wealthier and more rebellious: an activist with strong
convictions who is prepared to pay for the extra price to support
her/his ethical concerns.
Motivationstopurchaseecologicalfashion:
Environmentprotection,
Healthand
Ethics
Imageofthegreenfashionconsumer:
Smart
Sincere
Selfconfident
 The attributes for buying eco clothing Enhance quality of life and To support
n

the protection of the environment, are very important for most responders.
oisulcn
o
C

The two main barriers for buying organic clothing are not stylish and
expensive garments.

Targeting the environmentally conscious consumers might not be the only or

principal strategy organic clothing brands should apply for expanding market
share.

Certifications and correct labeling of garments are necessary in order to reach

those environmentally conscious potential shoppers.

Organic clothing needs a re-launch and promotional re-direction.

Marketers have a great challenge in educating consumers and disassociating

organic fashions from negative perceptions of the product as boring and plain.
 Ecological is expensive.

The products are simply more time-consuming to manufacture, their

demand is high, and the labor costs associated with fair production
are higher than typical methods of production.

Until organic fashion becomes more accessible, and thus less

costly, eco-fashion proponents will have to spin spending more in
terms of quality while getting substantially less in quantity.

It is still difficult to produce perfectly ecological garments on a large

scale. Clearly, the future of Eco-fashion depends on scientific and
technological innovation.
Eco-fashion is about making clothes that take into account the
environment, the health of consumers and the working conditions of
people in the fashion industry. Many leading stores are beginning to
stock eco fashion within its range although the prices of organic
materials are high. Green Fashion consists of clothing and accessories
that are reused, recycled or made from sustainable fabrics. Sustainable
fabrics include organic cotton, bamboo, hemp, corn, soy, peace silk and
other eco-friendly materials. Green fashion is important because it
causes less harm to humans and the environment.
Year 2009 had been declared as the International Year of Natural Fibres
under the aegis of The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United
Nations, to raise awareness of natural fibres and to promote their
efficiency and sustainability; and to foster an effective international
partnership among the various natural fibres industries across the world.

Ecofashionisanewkindofearthwarrior,providinganinfusionof
hopeforanabusedbutresilientplanet.
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Thank you