Role of Raw Materials In

Quality
At the time of developing the product we decides
the functional specifications of the product .
Functional specifications are based on the
performance expected from the product.
E.g. ; In the development of durable press shirt
the functional specification of the garment is that
IT IS WRINKLE FREE. The performance aspect of
this garment is that it remains wrinkle free under
specified conditions. To ensure the functional
feature of shirt we have to perform the
performance test
To check the variations generated due to
process variables
To check the performance
To ensure product features consistency right
from material specifications to functional ,
maintenance and product specifications.
Test is a procedure to achieve some result.
Only testing will not do any help, but it is
interpretation of the numbers generated ( test
results) which will help to identify problem
areas , if any.
Textile and apparel testing is destructive in
nature
 Testing is very
important aspect of
quality
management
Reason for Testing
Pre-purchase
Verify customer complaint(s)
Textile Testing
Standard Test Methods
Performance Standards
Atmospheric Conditions
 Sources of Standard
Test Methods

Committee D-13 of the American Society for Testing &

Materials (ASTM)
American Association for Textile Chemists and Colorists
(AATCC)
International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
Various National Bodies
Customers (Large Buying Houses, Retailers, etc.)
 Performance Standards

Committee D-13 of the American Society for Testing &

Materials (ASTM)
International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
Various National Bodies
Customers (Large Buying Houses, Retailers, etc.)
 Test Description Specification Test Method (1)

Fabric Weight Specified + 10 % A-8

Construction
Wales/Inch Specified + 5 % A-7
Courses/Inch Specified + 5 % A-7
Bursting Strength (lbs./Sq. In.) 50.0 min. A-10
Resistance to Pilling @ 5000 Rubs 4.0 min. A-14
Dimensional Stability (3 Laundering or Dry-cleaning)
Length (%) 5.0 max. A-6
Width (%) 5.0 max. A-6
Appearance Retention Satisfactory AATCC 143
Color Fastness to
Light (20 AFU) 4.0 min. A-4
Accelerated Washing/Dry-cleaning AATCC 61
Shade Change 3.0 min.
Staining 3.0 min.
Home Laundering
Shade Change 3.0 min. A-6
Staining 3.0 min. A-6
Crocking
Dry 3.0 min. A-2
Wet 3.0 min. A-2
Perspiration
Shade Change 3.0 min. A-3
Staining 3.0 min. A-3
Chlorine Bleach 4.0 min. AATCC 3
Non-chlorine Bleach 4.0 min. AATCC 172
Flammability Pass Class 1 16 CFR Parts 1610,1615 or
1616
1 - These are this organizations test methods.
 Property Test Method End Use
Jeans Casuals
Washed Appearance AATCC-124, IIB (3 washes) 3.5 3.5
Crease Retention AATCC-88C, IIC (3 washes) 4 4
Seam Slippage ASTM D 434 35 lbs. 25 lbs.
Shrinkage AATCC-135, IIB (3 washes)
Pre-cured, warp x fill 2% x 2% 2% x 2%
Post-cured, warp x fill 2% x 2% 2% x 2%
Pressing & Curing Appropriate Cycles 2% x 2% 2% x 2%
Washing 2% x 2% 2% x 2%
Total (press, cure, & wash) 3.5 % x 3.5% 3.5% x 3.5%
Non-permanent Press1 AATCC-96, IIE-3 (3 washes) 3% x 3% 3% x 3%
Tear Strength (Elmendorf) ASTM D 1424 3.5 lbs. 3.0 lbs.
Tensile Strength (grab) ASTM D 1682 60 lbs. 50 lbs.
Crockfastness AATCC-8
Dry 3-4 3-4
Wet 2-3 2-3
Colorfastness to
Abrasion AATCC-119 3-4 3-4
Colorfastness to Sublimation AATCC 133
30 seconds, dry contact heat @ 3500F 3 3
Colorfastness to Laundering AATCC-61, IIA
Shade Change 3-4 3-4
Staining 3-4 3-4
1 - Non-permanent press fabrics tested for shrinkage in a home washing machine and tumble dryer
must be hand steam ironed sufficiently to restore to a wearable level of smoothness before
measuring shrinkage.
2 - Crocking of dark colors and reds cannot be guaranteed because of limitations in the current
state of technology.
Testing ASTM Annual Book of
Standards Vol. 07.01 and 07.02

Standard Test methods

Performance Specifications
Standard Practices
Body Measurements
Care Labeling
Testing Technical Manual of the
American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists
Standard Test Methods
Evaluation Procedures
Special Equipment and Materials
A Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology
Textile Testing
Atmospheric Conditions

65 % + 2 % Relative Humidity

700 + 20 F or 210 + 10 C

D 1776-04 Standard Practice for Conditioning Textiles

for Testing, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Volume
07.01
How Many Samples to Test?
Interpretation of Test Results
 Various Tests for
Fabrics/Clothing
Strength & Wear Dimensional Colorfastness Comfort Other Tests
Tests Stability to to and
Aesthetic
Tensile strength Washing Washing Pilling Flammability
Elongation Drycleaning Drycleaning Snagging Seam Slippage
Recovery Steaming Steaming Crease Recovery Fabric
Bursting strength Pressing Pressing Crease Resistance Sewability
Tear strength Perspiration Permanent Press Wear Testing
Abrasion Light Air Permeability
Degradation Gas Fumes Heat Transfer
Rubbing Moisture Absorbency
Abrasion Water Repellency
Drape
Hand
Light Source
Artificial Daylight [D-65]
Cool White Light [CWF]
Tungsten Filament Light [Domestic Light
Matching]
Ultra Violet Black Light [Whites & Fluorescent
Dyes]
TL-84 Light -Triphosphor fluorescent Light
[Point of Sale]
Fabric Claims
A. Fabric Weight
B. Fabric Count
( Construction)
C. Yarn Size/Yarn
Count
A. Fabric Claim
Fabric Weight - (ISO 3801/EN 12127)
The measurement of mass per unit area
of textile fabrics in garment or piece
goods form. It is depending by the fabric
count and the yarn size.
Weight per sq.meter (g/m2) = Weight in
grams (die cut sample) X 100
B. Yarn Size
Fabric Count - (ISO 7211-2/EN 1049-2)
Determination of the number of
warp/weft yarns or wales/courses per
unit distance in a woven or knitted fabric
respectively by using suitable
magnifying and counting devices or
raveling yarns from fabrics.
Pick Glass
Yarn Size
No Pilling
Slight Pilling
Moderate Pilling
Severe Pilling
Very Severe Pilling
 Testing
Fabric Colorfastness
Multi-fiber Fabrics
Style # 1 Style # 10

Warp Filament Dacron Type 55

Filling (Weft) 1/3 inch stripe, each of the following

Spun acetate Spun acetate

Bleached cotton Bleached cotton
Spun nylon 6,6 Spun nylon 6,6
Spun silk Spun Dacron type 54
Spun viscose Spun Orlon type 75
Worsted wool Worsted wool
Fadeometer
Fabric Smoothness
Seam Smoothness
Crease Retention
Testing
Sewing Threads
Fiber content
Diameter
Size (yarn count)
Twist and twist balance
Strength and elongation
Shrinkage
Colorfastness
Length per thread holder
Testing
Sewing Threads

ASTM D 204-02 Test Methods for Sewing Threads, Vol. 07.01

ASTM D 3823-01 Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing
Threads, Vol. 07.02
ASTM D 3693-02 Labeled Length per Holder of Sewing
Thread, Vol. 07.02
Testing
Zippers
Dimension
Strength
Colorfastness
Durability of finish
Operability
Testing
Zippers
ASTM D 2060-00 Measuring Zipper Dimensions, Vol. 07.01
ASTM D 2061-03 Strength Tests for Zippers, Vol. 07.01
ASTM 2059-03 Resistance of Zippers to Salt Spray (Fog), Vol.
07.01
ASTM 2062-03 Operability of Zippers, Vol. 07.01
ASTM D 3692-89(2000) Selection of Zippers for Care-
Labeled Apparel and Household Furnishings, Vol. 07.02
ASTM D 4465-97 Performance Specification for Zippers for
Denim Dungarees, Vol. 07.02
Testing
Colorfastness of Zippers
ASTM D 2054-99 Colorfastness of Zipper Tapes to Crocking,
Vol. 07.01
ASTM D 2052-01 Colorfastness of Zippers to Dry Cleaning,
Vol. 07.01
ASTM 2057-01 Colorfastness of Zippers to Laundering, Vol.
07.01
ASTM 2053-99 Colorfastness of Zippers to Light, Vol. 07.01
Testing
Buttons
Dimensions
Impact resistance
Colorfastness
Durability
Testing
Buttons
ASTM D 5497-94c(2000) Terminology Relating to Buttons,
Vol. 07.02
ASTM D 6840-02 Effect of Dry Cleaning on Buttons, Vol.
07.02
ASTM D 5171-00 Impact Resistance of Sew-Through Flange
Buttons, Vol. 07.02
ASTM D 6644-01(2002) Tension Strength of Sew-Through
Flange Buttons, Vol. 07.02
Testing
Snap Fasteners

Holding power
ASTM D 4846-96(2004) Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap
Fasteners, Vol. 07.02
Corrosion resistance
Testing
Hook and Loop Fasteners

Peel Strength
ASTM D 5170-98 Peel Strength (T Method) of Hook and
Loop Touch Fasteners, Vol. 07.02
Shear Strength
ASTM D 5169-98 Shear Strength (Dynamic Method) of Hook
and Loop Fasteners, Vol. 07.02
Hook and Fastener Shear
Strength
Hook and Fastener Peel
Strength
 Wear Testing
Can help evaluate the performance of new or existing
products compared to the performance of known
products.
Can be an excellent tool to gauge consumer acceptance
and product development.
Can help evaluate the suitability of existing products in
different end uses.
 Wear Testing
Can help evaluate the interaction of wear, laundering or
dry cleaning, daily stress-strain, environmental elements,
etc. on a given fabric, dye, finish, etc.
Can help determine what care instructions should be
furnished to the consumers so as to generate consumer
satisfaction.
 Points to Consider and Decide Before
Initiating a Wear Test

The objective
Compare a new product (design, construction, fabric, etc.) with
an existing product
Compare similar products with certain differences such as
fabric blend
To determine proper care label
To judge consumer acceptance of a new product
To arrive at a realistic performance standards for a product
 Points to Consider and Decide Before
Initiating a Wear Test

Properties to be evaluated (they will depend on the

objective)
How the product under wear test will be evaluated?
By visual ratings
By testing certain properties after a certain number of wears
Combination of both of the above
Points to Consider and Decide Before
Initiating a Wear Test

Length of test
The participants
Method of refurbishing (laundering or dry cleaning) and
who will accomplish this refurbishing
Wear Testing
Shirts and Blouses
Areas to Evaluate
Collar, right and left
Cuff, right and left
Elbow, right and left
Underarm, right and left
Pocket, right and left
Front, right and left
Back
Placket
Wear Testing
Trousers and Slacks
Areas to Evaluate
Front pocket area and below right and left fly
Knee, right and left
Back pocket area, right and left
Crotch area
Seat
Cuff, right and left
Crease
Wear Testing
Dresses
Areas to Evaluate
Collar or neckline
Cuff, right and left
Elbow, right and left
Underarm, right and left
Bodice, front and back
Skirt, front and back
Pocket
Hem line
Pleats
Wear Testing

Standard Guide for Conducting Wear

Tests on Textiles. ASTM D 3181-95
 In House Testing Or
Outside/Commercial Testing?
In-House Testing
Initial investment in testing facility (test equipment,
laboratory space, technician training, etc.)
On going expenses such as maintenance and calibration of
test equipment, utilities, office expenses)
Personnel issues (retention of qualified personnel, annual
performance reviews, pay raises, etc.)
Flexibility and quick response in testing
Consistency in performance of tests
Confidence in your own results
Outside/Commercial Testing
No initial investment in testing facility (test equipment,
laboratory space, technician training, etc.)
No on going expenses such as maintenance and calibration
of test equipment, utilities, office expenses
No personnel issues (retention of qualified personnel, annual
performance reviews, pay raises, etc.)
Reduced flexibility and quick response in testing
Availability of wide ranging testing capability
Confidence in test results based on the reputation of the
laboratory