Quality Training Course

Contents
Circular Knitted Fabrics
A. Fabrics Made with a Single Set of Needles (Single Knits)
i. Single Jersey
- Single Jersey with Spandex/ Elastane
- Pique
- Lacoste
- Baby French Terry
- Jacquard
ii Terry
iii. French Terry

B. Fabrics Made on Two Needle Beds (Double Knits)

i. Interlock
ii. Doubled Knitted Fabrics
iii. Double Knitted - Jacquard
iv Rib
Shaft Weaving: Schematic
()
Warping
Circular Knitting Machine

Circular Knitting Machine

 Single Jersey with Elastane

Piqu
Single


Jersey Lacoste
Fabrics
made Baby French Terry
with a
Weft single
Knitted Jacquard Terry Brush
set of
Fabrics needles
(Single Buckly Fleece One side

Knits) Reverse Plaiting brushed,

Terry Terry Terry Jacquard combed,
sheared &
/ Velour Polar Fleece (both side anti-pilling
brushed, combed & sheared)

Twill French Terry
Anti pilling polar fleece Both side
Knitted French brushed,
Fabrics Terry Cross French Terry (Mini French combed,
Terry) sheared
Fleece Double Knitted -Piqu but only
one side
anti-pilling
(, ) Healthy Fabric
()
Interlock
Pig Skin Both side
brushed,
Fabrics Double Knitted Fabrics Rib 11 combed,
Sucker sheared &
made
on two Rib 22 anti-pilling
needle Double Knitted - Jacquard
beds French Rib
Fancy Rib ( 11 +
Warp (Double Rib 22)
Knitted Knits)
Fabrics ( ) Rib Jacquard

Rib Pointelle
Classification of Knitted Fabrics
Definition after ISO 7839: 1984
Knitted fabrics are made from interlocking loops, formed from a single yarn or from many.
They are classified into weft knitted and warp knitted fabrics.

Characteristics Characteristics
May be made from a single yarn. Requires a full warp sheet. ()
() The loop-forming yarns are fed in the
The yarn is fed crosswise to the length of the direction of the length of the fabric. ()
fabric. () Can not be unravelled, usually does not
Can be unravelled (); may ladder. ( ladder. (,)
) Knitting needles always work together as a
Knitting needles can work sequentially or all unit. ()
together. ()
 Production

Weft Knitted Fabrics Warp Knitted Fabrics

Sequential loop formation on a Loop formation on a warp

flat machine knitting machine

Sequential needles:
Warp knitting:
Machines can be flat or circular.
Needles are usually of the latch type. Warp knitting uses one or more warp
() sheets. Each yarn is looped around a
needle and the needles are all moved
together. (
)
 Latch Needles
Needles and Sinker for Needles for Double
Single Knitting Machine Knitting Machine

 Single & Double Knitting Machines

Single Knitting Machine Double Knitting Machine

24250 500 Kg /
24250 Kg /

Single Knitting Machine

 Loop Formation

Latch Needles

/ /
The Intermeshing of Loops

Head (the needle loop), two legs, and two feet. The feet joining two adjacent
loops form the sinker loop. Fabric is formed by intermeshing loops. Each
loop has four intermeshing points in two pairs. The legs within a pair must
always intermesh in the same sense; both legs lying either under or over the
head of the preceding loop. The upper pair may intermesh in the opposite
sense to the lower pair, depending on the construction.

Loop characteristics
Face and Back of Knitted Loops ()
The lower pair of meshing points determine whether the loop is a face loop or
a back loop.
A back loop, is formed when the loop is drawn through the previous loop in a
direction away from the viewer: the legs of the loop lie under the head of the
preceding loop.
A face loop, is formed when the loop is drawn through the previous loop in a
direction towards the viewer: the legs of the loop lie over the head of the
preceding loop.

Leg
Head

Back loop Face loop

 Courses and Wales

A course is a row of loops produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting
cycle.

A wale is a column of loops produced by the same needle on successive knitting

cycles.

A course A wale

 Basic Construction of Circular Knitted Fabrics

1. Knit 2. Tuck * 3. Miss (Float)

Piqu Jacquard
Single Jersey
*

 Tuck and Float (Miss) Loops

A tuck stitch comprises a held loop and a tuck loop, both intermeshed in the
same course. ()
Held loop: a loop pulled through the loop of the previous course and retained
by the needle over one or more courses. ()
Tuck loop: a length of yarn received by a needle but not pulled through the
loop of the previous course. ()
Float (miss) loop: a length of yarn not received by a needle and connecting
two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wale. (
)

A tuck stitch A tuck loop A float (or miss) loop

 Loop Formation
Latch Needles

/ /

Needle starts Needle ascends Loop descends Yarn is fed onto needle, Loop is
to ascend & crosses therefore
then latch closes and
horizontal edge of formed
needle descends
the machine
 Plain, Single Jersey
This structure is made with only a single set of needles. It is called single face,
plain or single jersey. (Jersey is a general name for knitted fabrics. It is not
restricted to any particular structure.
()
The two sides of the fabric have a different appearance. One side shows only
face loops, the other side only back loops.
()
It has relatively low extensibility in the width and tends to curl at the edges.
()

Plain, face back production

 Cross-tuck (Piqu)

Piqu-style relief patterning can be made on single or double jersey base
structures. The single jersey base is more common because it is lighter weight.
The pattern is formed by alternating plain and tuck loops within one course
and between one course and another.
(Piqu
piqupiqu)

Cross-tuck (pique), back

face
 Inlay (Loopback) - Baby French Terry

An extra (inlay) yarn is floated on the technical back, tucking at regular
intervals. Usually the inlay yarn is much coarser than the ground yarn. These
fabrics have a fine face and a bulky looped back which is often brushed or
raised.
(
)

Inlay or loopback, Inlay or loopback, back

schematic face
 Jacquard

When a color is not required on the face, the yarn floats on the back of the
fabric. A wide range of designs can be created . The fabric is not very
extensible, because of the large number of floats. Applications include fashion
pullovers and waistcoats.
(
)

Jacquard, schematic Jacquard, face Jacquard, back

 Plush or Terry

Plush or knitted terry fabric is made by including (plating) an extra yarn which
is made to form extended sinker loops. The plated yarn can be knitted at every
needle or on selected needles to form a pattern.
(
)
Cut plush, or knitted velour is made by cutting the plated yarn loops. The
fabric surface then resembles velvet (velour).
()

Plush or terry, Plush or terry Cut plush (velour)

schematic


 Two Types of Terry Fabrics

Reverse Plaiting Terry Velour ()

Face Face

Back Back

Loop
Loop

()
Different yarns between face and back,
Yarns of face and back are loop will be cut so that the structure of face
same, loop wont be cut wont be affected
 Rib Fabric

Rib fabrics are made on two needle beds with the needles in a staggered
formation. The loops are drawn in opposite directions so that face and back
loops alternate in each course. Both sides of the fabric show only the face
loops. The back loops are exposed only when the fabric is extended in the
width direction. Rib fabrics are very extensible in the width. Applications
include pullovers, waistcoats, underwear, socks.
(
)

Rib fabric production

 2x2 Rib, Broad Ribs

A wide range of rib fabrics can be produced, depending on the set-out of the
needles. The most popular is 2x2 rib which is made by taking every third
needle out of action in each needle bed.
(22)
The two sides of the 2x2 rib fabric look the same. If the fabric is stretched in
the width, the two rib loops are exposed between the two face loops. It is very
elastic in the width direction.
(22)

2x2 rib
 Interlock
()
Interlock is made on two needle beds in which the needles are directly opposed
an work alternately.
()
It takes two courses to make one row of loops on the face and back.
Both side show only face loops and look identical. The fabric is extensible, but
not very elastic.
()

Interlock production
 Double Piqu
Piqu
Double piqu is made on rib machines by a selection of knitted loops and
floats. The floats greatly reduce the width extensibility.
( piqu float
piqupiqu)

Double piqu, face back

 Rib Jacquard

In double jersey jacquard machines, the needles in the two needle beds
(cylinder and dial) can be selected either to knit or miss.
()

Jacquard, face back

Basic Characteristics & Applications of Woven Fabrics
()

Production Basic Applications

Characteristics

Woven firm,stable,dense, jackets and

low extensibility coats,suits,
Two sets of yarns,
and elasticity,cut costumes,
warp and weft
edges will fray. dresses, shirts
(length and width),
and blouses,
interlaced at right (,,
linings and
angles. ,,
interlinings, bed
,
( clothes, table
)
cloths, household
) textiles,drapes
and coverings.
Basic Characteristics & Applications of Weft Knits

Production Basic Applications

Characteristics

Weft knits Soft,supple,

Underwear,
voluminous, very
nightwear, baby
At least one yarn
extensible and
wear, socks and
running cross-
elastic,crease
stockings,
wise and forming
resistant, will
pullovers,
rows of loops
ladder. cardigans, caps
(courses). The
and scarves,
loops on each (,,
sports and leisure
row are ,
wear.
intermeshed with . ,
loops on the )
previous row.
(

)
Basic Characteristics & Applications of Warp Knits

Production Basic Applications

Characteristics

Warp knits Firm,stable, Lingerie, lace, net,

smooth,moderate trimmings, elastic
At least one warp
extensibility and linings, swimwear,
sheet is formed
elasticity, crease sportswear,
into lengthwise
resistant, will not foundation
columns of loops,
ladder. garments,
with columns
(,, curtains, bed
connected
, clothes, industrial
laterally in a
. , textiles.
ziqzag fashion.
)
(

,
)
 Single Jersey with Elastane

Piqu
Single


Jersey Lacoste
Fabrics
made Baby French Terry
with a
Weft single
Knitted Jacquard Terry Brush
set of
Fabrics needles
(Single Buckly Fleece One side

Knits) Reverse Plaiting brushed,

Terry Terry Terry Jacquard combed,
sheared &
/ Velour Polar Fleece (both side anti-pilling
brushed, combed & sheared)

Twill French Terry
Anti pilling polar fleece Both side
Knitted French brushed,
Fabrics Terry Cross French Terry (Mini French combed,
Terry) sheared
Fleece Double Knitted -Piqu but only
one side
anti-pilling
(, ) Healthy Fabric
()
Interlock
Pig Skin Both side
brushed,
Fabrics Double Knitted Fabrics Rib 11 combed,
Sucker sheared &
made
on two Rib 22 anti-pilling
needle Double Knitted - Jacquard
beds French Rib
Fancy Rib ( 11 +
Warp (Double Rib 22)
Knitted Knits)
Fabrics ( ) Rib Jacquard

Rib Pointelle
 Single Jersey with Elastane

Piqu
Single


Jersey Lacoste
Fabrics
made Baby French Terry
with a
Weft single
Knitted Jacquard Terry Brush
set of
Fabrics needles
(Single Buckly Fleece One side

Knits) Reverse Plaiting brushed,

Terry Terry Terry Jacquard combed,
sheared &
/ Velour Polar Fleece (both side anti-pilling
brushed, combed & sheared)

Twill French Terry
Anti pilling polar fleece Both side
Knitted French brushed,
Fabrics Terry Cross French Terry (Mini French combed,
Terry) sheared
Fleece Double Knitted -Piqu but only
one side
anti-pilling
(, ) Healthy Fabric
()
Interlock
Pig Skin Both side
brushed,
Fabrics Double Knitted Fabrics Rib 11 combed,
Sucker sheared &
made
on two Rib 22 anti-pilling
needle Double Knitted - Jacquard
beds French Rib
Fancy Rib ( 11 +
Warp (Double Rib 22)
Knitted Knits)
Fabrics ( ) Rib Jacquard

Rib Pointelle
When placing an order, the following must be
defined:
()

1. Composition Buying office & Supplier /

Factory.

2. Fabric Weight (gm / m) Buying Office &

Supplier / Factory.

3. Yarn Count () Supplier / Factory.

4. Gauge (gg / inch) Supplier / Factory.

5. Fabric Width - Supplier / Factory.

Circular Knitting
Factory
Circular Knitting Machine

Circular Knitting Machine

Fabric Turning Machine

Brushing Machine

Anti Pilling Process

Functional aspects of double-layer sportswear
Sewing with Correct Needle

Damaged stitches

Undamaged stitches by using the

correct needle
C : 100% Cotton
CVC : Chief Value Cotton
Cotton / Polyester
Example: 80% / 20% , 60% / 40%,
55% / 45%
T/C : Polyester / Cotton
Example: 65% / 35%
SP : Spun Polyester (Staple Yarn )
(100% Polyester)
CVC 30 / 2 (Twist )

CVC 30 / 1 x 2 ()

C30 + C20 ()

C30 + OP 40D (Elastane, Spantex )

C30 + 100D/36F (100 Denier 36

filaments)
 (Spun Yarns / Short Fibers)
Example:
40/2 = 2 x 40/1 = 20/1
50/2 = 2 x 50/1 = 25/1
45/3 = 3 x 45/1 = 15/1

1. 2. () () 2-Fold (Ply) Yarn () 3-Fold (Ply) Yarn

Single Yarn 2-Fold (Ply) Yarn
 Filament Yarns / Long Fibers ()
Example : 40 Denier x 2 = 80 Denier