JACQUARDS

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 INTRODUCTION
Jacquards is a n additional attachment to the
machine to create an intricate and complex
pattern.
Origin of the word jacquard applies to weaving.
First invented in 1804 by Joseph Marie Jacquard.
The term was applied to knitting much later when
perforated card system was devised for
attachment to V bed flat knitting machines.
There are no. of mechanisms available were
needles are selected to produce knit in design.
Many designers make use of the jacquards pattern
for the intricate look of the garment.
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 TYPES OF JACQUARD
Apart from the woven fabric, jacquard fabric also
refers to a rib-based, double jersey weft-knit fabric
on which a figure or design appears in a different
color or texture.
Jacquard fabrics are further sub-divided into flat-
jacquard and blister fabrics.
The flat jacquard patterns have equal number of
loops in each wale of the pattern knitting.
It is not so with blister fabrics.
Commonly found jacquard fabrics are brocade,
damask and tapestries etc.

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 For each type the design width will be determined by the number of
feeds on the machine, the number of colors in the pattern and by the
number of different patterning selections made at each feed.

Three main types of jacquard fabrics recognized by the size of the

area may be classified as follows:
Intermediate jacquard: smallest design area with maximum design
width 24 wales.
Medium jacquard: max design width- approximately 48 wales.
Full jacquard: max design width approximately 144 wales.

As in an indication of typical sizes of pattern areas available produced

on 18 cut machines in rib jacquards fabrics are:
Intermediate jacquard:25 mm x 12mm (1 inch wide inch deep)
Medium jacquard: 50mm x 90mm( 2 inch wide x 3 inch deep)
Full jacquard: 140mm x 165mm ( 5 inch wide x 6 inch deep)

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 RIB JACQUARD

PATTERN WHEEL PATTERN DRUM PROGRAMME TAPE

Inserted jacks Peg type Vertical bad

Snipped jacks Selector type Circular band
Electronic band

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 RIBBED JACQUARD DOUBLE KNIT
"Ribbed" means that it is worked with alternating knit and purl
stitches with the knit stitches arranged in columns and the purl
stitches in alternating columns.
"Jacquard" means it is a two color pattern, also called Fair Isle.
Each row will contain short stretches of one color while the other
color is carried out of sight on the back.
"Double knit" means the fabric is reversible. Basically it's two pieces
of fabric with the private sides (insides) touching each other, but
both sides of the fabric are knit at the same time.
Each time a color changes, the two fabrics are joined together.
The resulting effect is that one side is a mirrored negative of the
other side.
Ribbed jacquard double knit fabric is one that encompasses all of
those features in one fabric

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 RIB JACQUARD MECHANISM
PATTERN WHEEL MECHANISM:
most widely used needle selecting jacquard
mechanism placed on knitting machine at 38-45
degree
it comprises of raising cam, wing cam and stitch
cam
the slots are filled with jacks of different types .
needle activated by high jack will rise to knit
position
if the slot is empty needle becomes inoperative
and stays to float position.
a low type of jack will raise the needle to tuck
position. 9
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 PATTERN DRUM
MECHANISM:
Pattern drum do not
operate on needles directly
they operate on jacks below
.
Two types:
1 multi-step selection:
selectors inserted in the
grooves of the pattern drum
2 peg drum machines:
metal pegs are inserted in
the holes of pattern drum 11
 TAPE PATTERNING DEVICES:
needles are selected by an endless tape, punched with
holes.

Punched Steel Tape Jacquard:

Modification of pattern wheel mechanism.
wheel contains special types of jacks.
The steel tape acts on pointed end of jack .
If there is a hole in tape, the jack remains
undisturbed so the jack butt engages the
cam and needle is raised to required
position.

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Punched Paper-roll Jacquard:
instead of steel tape , paper roll or plastic sheet
is used.
this gives unlimited scope for needle selection.
depth of pattern depends on length of roll.
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 CIRCULAR KNITTING JACQUARD
MECHANISM
1. A jacquard mechanism mounted in a circular knitting machine for
knitting a jacquard fabric, comprising:
a fixed selector cam having one track for guiding a knitting needle,
and a sliding slot.
a movable selector cam
a driving mechanism controlled to move movable selector cam
between upper position and lower position
2. The jacquard mechanism of claim 1 wherein auxiliary track
comprises a tucking track
3. The jacquard mechanism of claim 2 wherein movable selector cam
comprises a sloping front surface configured to lift knitting needle to
tucking position
4. The jacquard mechanism of claim 1 wherein fixed selector cam
comprises a vertical rail slot for guiding the movement of movable
selector cam
5. The jacquard mechanism of claim 1 wherein driving mechanism
further comprises a board coupled to and turned by servo motor and
having two wings spaced 180 degree.
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DEVELOPMENT OF JACQUARDS
The development of Jacquards which rely on
electronic (computer) information rather than
actual punched cards has greatly reduced the
costs of the equipment, materials and labour
required to convert a design into ready to
weave condition.
Recent Jacquards can connect to digital
networks, such as Ethernet, thus permitting
direct transfer of patterns from the design
computer.
The number of Jacquard hooks per mechanism
has been steadily increasing from around 1000
in the 19th century to over 12,000 at the end of
the 20th. 15
COMPUTERISED SINGLE KNIT JACQUARD
COMPUTERISED DOUBLE KNIT
JACQUARD

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 COST
The simplification of Jacquard mechanisms has
reduced the cost per hook of manufacturing a
Jacquard.
Lower purchase costs, especially since the electronic
versions.
no longer require support equipment such as punches.
This in turn has made possible the re-emergence of
the hand-loom Jacquards, such as the TC-1 and
TIS/SAMT systems.
These new mechanisms have brought Jacquard
technology well into the reach of schools and even of
some individuals.

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 ELECTRONIC DEVICES
The patterning capacity of a knitting unit can be made
unlimited by the use of electronic devices for selecting
the needles.
There is no limitation to the width and height of the
pattern.
The solid state circuits can now transform the light
energy into electrical energy, convert AC to DC and
amplify small amount of energy to a high voltage.
This way it reduces both the preparation time and cost
the of design as compared
to the mechanical one.

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 ADVANTAGES
Work done on incredible speed
Long lasting, do not wear out as the metal
component
Efficiency and reliability of electronic
components is greater
Space occupying mechanical parts can be
dispensed by light-weight transistors

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 CAD/CAM
pre-manufacturing with the help of computer based
products
to create prototypes
arcane software is used

INTERFACING CAD WITH ELECTRONIC JACQUARD

simplify both production and processing of jacquard design.
cardboard and pattern plate is replaced by magnetic tape in
electrical jacquard.
data required for shed formation is processed on the
available programming system which provides CAD.

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CAD software in jacquard
machine

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VINTAGE JACQUARDS

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DESIGNERS

MISSONI

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

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THANK YOU

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