The role the UV rays play in inducing adverse effects at skin

a. UVB radiation on the DNA of keratinocytes induces carcinogenesis

b. UVA radiation on the dermis release of free radicals causes onset
of elastosis skin photosensitization and phototoxicity
Thus, important to arrange an appropriate skin protection strategy
Formulation of sunscreen products has increased and widened their
protection range development of precise standards
European Commission published the Recommendation 2006/647/EC :
a. protective efficacy of sunscreen products
b. related indications of use
 SPF = index of protection potential of the product from UVB

UVA protection value should keep a precise correlation with the UVB
protection value minimum UVA protection should be at least 1/3 of UVB
Critical wavelength value must at least, equal to 370 nm (290-370nm)
product able to absorb UV radiation at longer wavelength (UVA)
 Able to:
a. Ensure uniformity of skin application
b. Resistance to water, sweat and sand
c. Photo-stable
d. Reach the right synergic combination targeted for normal skin,
sensitive skin and babies avoid skin sensitization or
photosensitization
 2 standard methods :
a. ISO 24444:2010
b. US FDA 2011
Performed on phototype I, II, III skin based on Fitzpatrick classification.
 Cosmetic Europe (COLIPA)
Guidelines to evaluate SPF before and after water immersion of the
skin site where the sunscreen product has been applied
A products is water resistant (40 min immersions) or very water
resistant (80 min immersions)
if the SPF value after immersion is equal to more than 50% of the
value before immersion
 Selection of the right combination of UVB and UVA filters broad spectrum
protection, stability
Ideal aim is the highest protection with the minimum amount of UV filters
Best combinations
a. Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate + Ethylhexyl Triazone
3:1
b. Octocrylene + Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3:1
c. Octocrylene + Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane + Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol
Methoxyphenyl Triazine
d. Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Bemotrizinol) +
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone + Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
 For maximum UV protection the combination needs to:
a. + Inorganic UV filters
b. + Metal oxides as UV filters Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in
nanoparticles form
c. Undergo solubilisation of sparing soluble solid UV filters
For water resistant effect :
a. Preparing fully anhydrous formulation + film forming polymers;
b. NO emulsions