BOM

Buyer- Supplier Production

Sampling generation for
Meeting order placed
po

Pre production Raw material Raw material

sample Fabric washing inspection procurement

Shipment
Production sample Finishing Packing

Shipment
 Spreading and cutting flow process

Preparation for
Planning Spreading Cutting
sewing
Spreading and cutting flow process
Spreads

Markers
Planning
Production

Manual
Spreading
Machine

Manual
Cutting
Machine

Ticketing
Preparation
for sewing
Bundles
 Planning

Spreads Markers Production

It translates customer orders into cutting orders

minimize total production costs

meet deadlines

seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

 Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability

Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making

Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed

Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization

Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and personnel

Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

 Cutting orders
leads to

Marker planning Lay planning

 The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut
planning.

The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and
shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.

One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.

A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.

Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.

Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:

table length,

type of equipment,

spread length,

spreading time and

cutting time.
Marker
is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes
to be cut from a single spread.

Marker making
is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified
style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)
 Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.

By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low
as possible.

It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These
include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such
as drill holes and notches.

Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save
or waste thousands of dollars a year.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Markers types:
Blocks or Sections
Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the
pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.

Block or section marker

Continuous
Continuous markers contain all the pattern
pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.

Continuous marker
Markers types:
Open marker
Marker made with full pattern pieces.

Closed marker
Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).

Closed marker
 Marker making

Computerized marker
Manually produced
making (CAD)
Manual marker
Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply

Tracing by pencil or tailors chalk.

Time consuming.

Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)

Accuracy depends on individuals skill.

 Marker making
Computerised marker
Accurate

Shortest response time.

Direct or digitized.

Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no omissions

Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the computer.

Can be printed/recalled/modified.

Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.

Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way
The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is
made with every pattern placed with the down
direction of the pattern in the same direction.

This mode is necessary for fabrics that are

asymmetric.

All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the down

direction, which is usually toward the left edge
(starting point where the legend is written).

The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but

least efficient of the three nap directions for a
marker.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is
made where there is no restriction of which way the
pattern are oriented.

The patterns may be oriented either down or up,

placed wherever they fit best, only making sure that
the patterns are on-grain.

The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most

efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down
The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated
N/U/D) is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way
marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/
Way marker.

In order to get a better fit between the patterns,

alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in
opposite directions.

This method is yields moderately good fabric

utilization, and good quality.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker Efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
It is determined for fabric utilization

Minimum waste

Factors affecting marker efficiency

Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc.)

Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces less flexibility)

Grain requirements
 Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting
table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process

Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker

Requirement of spreading Spreading equipment

Shade sorting of cloth pieces
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin
Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability table, vacuum table)
Alignment of plies Spreading machines
Correct ply tension

Elimination of fabric faults

Avoidance of distortion in the spread

Spreading equipment
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
Spreading machines
 Spreading

Manual Machine
 In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, if it is a roll, may be
supported by a frame and carried along the
table where the end is secured by weights
or by clamps.

The operators work back from the end,

aligning the edges and ensuring that there
is no tension and that there are no
wrinkles.
 Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to
end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time on the
spread.
Spreading machines may include:
A motor to drive
A platform on which the operator rides
A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends of
ply in place
A ply counter
An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides
A turntable
A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the
speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the fabric
being spread.
 Nap one way & face
one way spreading

Nap either way &

face to face
spreading
Spreading Mode
Nap one-way face to
face spreading

Nap either way &

face one way
spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.

Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading operators
(thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking along both sides of cutting table.

While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries
the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.

Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come back to starting
position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of spreading machine is called
as dead heading

Face one way Nap one

way

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face spreading
The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.

Difficult to achieve manually.

The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by catcher, at
layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher while the fabric
is being laid by the machine during its return movement also.

Face to Nap either

face way

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading
Most time consuming method of spreading.

The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.

At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and
return back to starting position without.

Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.

Face to Nap one

face way

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.

At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and start
spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead heading
by the machine in this spreading mode.

Face one way Nap either

way

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Spreading costs
Labour cost
Fabric waste
Splicing loss
End loss
Width loss
 Cutting

Cutting

Manual Machine

Portable cutting Stationary Position

Scissors
knives cutters markers
Band
Straight Notchers
knife
knife
Die Drills and
Round cutting thread
knife
Servo markers
cutting
Plasma
cutting
Water jet
cutting
Laser
cutting
Scissors
 Portable cutting knives

Power system

Handle

Sharpening

Cutting blade

Blade guard
Up and down movement

One way thrust as the circular

blade makes contact with the
fabric
Straight knife
Round knife Base plate
 Portable cutting knives
Straight knife
Vertical blade
Reciprocates up and down
Corners and curves can be cut accurately
Most versatile and commonly used
Blades length - 6 to 14 inches
Spread depth depends on blade length &
adjustable height of the blade guard
All of the pieces cut from a lay are
identical
Round knife
Popular, light and fast.
Suitable only for cutting in straight lines
or very gradual curves, in depths of
about 15cm
Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or
bulky material, or lower lays of harder
material such as shirts
Small blade cuts single layer
A round blade contacts the spread at
an angle; thus, the top ply is cut before
the bottom ply
Stationary cutters: Band knife
Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless steel band
Fabric layers are guided by hand against the blade
Air cushion is provided below the fabric layers
Plies are stapled together to prevent slippage
Used for precision cutting to a depth of up to 300mm
Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are cut
precisely
Band knives are more accurate for small blocks or for
shaving small amounts off pre-cut blocks
Stationary cutters: Servo cutting
Overhead servo motor
Adjustable speed
Suspension system that
supports the knife perpendicular
to the cutting table
Knife is mounted on a swivel arm
It combines vertical cutting and
band knife cutting into one
machine
 Cutting
Stationary cutters: Die cutting
Dies are pre shaped metal outlines
Most accurate
Die cutting operation involves
Placement of fabric
Positioning the die on the fabric
Engaging the machine to press the die
into the fabric
Used mainly for leather, coated and laminated
materials
Areas where the same patterns are used over
a long period, e.g. collar, pocket flaps
 Cutting
Stationary cutters: Plasma cutting
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
Problems same as for laser cutting
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
 Cutting
Stationary cutters: Water jet cutting
Very high velocity, fine stream of water
High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on impact
As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum decreases and cutting
ability is reduced frayed edges
Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality
Leather, plastic, vinyl
High equipment costs
 Cutting
Position markers: Notchers
Notches can be cut by straight knife too but
accuracy is required
Specialized notching equipment provides
greater accuracy because a guide lines up the
notcher with the cut edge
Hot notcher consists of a heating element
(blade) that slightly scorches the fibers adjacent
to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)
Two types of notches:
Straight notch and V-notch
 Cutting
Position markers: Drills and thread markers
Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a hole and spirit
level
Used for reference markers needed away from the edge of a
garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.
A hole is drilled through the lay
Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible until the sewing
operator comes to use it
Loose weave hot drill is used which slightly scorches or fuse
the edges of the hole
Hypodermic (or dye spot) drill leaves small deposit of paint on each ply of fabric
ALL drill holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the garment
 Preparation
for sewing

Ticketing Bundles
 Preparation for sewing
Ticketing
Tickets carry details : style no, size,
ply no, bundle no., date issued
Operations may be incorporated for
payment purposes, control of work
and facilitating quality control
 Preparation for sewing
Bundling
Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done

Bundle ticket consists of :

Order no. 6015
Bundle no. 1430
Quantity 12
Style no. 3145
Size 12
Section collar
Spreading defects
Possible Pattern Defects:
Pattern parts missing Skimpy marking
Mixed parts Generous marking
Patterns not facing in the correct direction Marker too wide
on napped fabrics Not enough knife clearance
Patterns not all facing in the same freedom
direction on a one-way fabric Mismatched checks and stripes
Patterns not aligned with respect to the Notches and drill marks omitted,
fabric grain indistinct, or misplaced
Line definition poor

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, Managing quality in apparel products