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From the Latin per fumum ( through the fumes ) because ancient
civilizations initially produced perfumes with resins fumigation (incense,
myrrh, benzoin).
Myrrh nuggets
Introduction Perfume grades
10-20 % 20-30 %
8-10%
Eau de parfum Parfum
toilette
Eau de toilette
Introduction The perfumes industry
Few perfumes are created by the luxury brands themselves. In France, only the
Grandes Maisons such as DIOR, CHANEL, GUERLAIN, HERMES, PATOU and
CARTIER have in-house master perfumers (the nose ) who creates the
fragrances.
Most of the time, the luxury brands call for a tender within F&F manufacturing
companies which create the fragrances for them.
Introduction The Flavor and Fragrance market
Givaudan
F&F market value (B$, 2014) : 16.5
Other 20%
33% Net sales (B$, 2014) :
Givaudan : 4.8
Firmenich
13 % Firmenich : 3.3
IFF : 3.1
Robertet
2%
Mane
IFF
4%
Takasago 12%
Symrise
5% 11%
Source : Leffingwell & Associates
Introduction Perfumes bestseller
(+)-cis--irone
Pomarose iris, violet
dry fruit, plum
Ethylmaltol
caramel, cotton candy
One Million (Paco Rabanne, 2008) La Vie est Belle (Lancme, 2012)
Created by Givaudan Created by IFF
Note : one ingredient with one characteristic smell (e.g. : cinnamon = spicy note)
Accord : combinaison of 2 notes (or more) that creates a new smell, different from each individual
notes. With more than 4,000 raw material available, the possibility are almost infinite !
Natural : from natural resource (flower, wood, animal) ; generally a complex mixture (e.g. :
Madagascar vanilla absolute).
Synthetic : the natural molecule is reproduced with organic synthesis. It is a chemically defined
compound (e.g. : vaniline) often more stable and cheaper than natural ingredients.
Artificial : the molecule does not exist in the nature (e.g. : ethylvaniline). Artificial materials
allow more creativity to perfumers and provide them access to smells that cannot be isolated
(e.g. : marine notes, leather notes).
Natural or
synthetic ?
www.olfatheque.com
The beginning of the modern perfumery
The coumarin
Coumarin
Tonka beans
Dipteryx odorata
The coumarin
The coumarin
Fougre Royale
(Houbigant, 1884)
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
C. Fehr, I. Magpantay, J. Arpagaus, X. Marquet, M. Vuagnoux, Ang. Chem. 2009, 121, 7357.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
C. Fehr, I. Magpantay, J. Arpagaus, X. Marquet, M. Vuagnoux, Ang. Chem. 2009, 121, 7357.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
C. Fehr, I. Magpantay, J. Arpagaus, X. Marquet, M. Vuagnoux, Ang. Chem. 2009, 121, 7357.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
C. Fehr, I. Magpantay, J. Arpagaus, X. Marquet, M. Vuagnoux, Ang. Chem. 2009, 121, 7357.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
C. Fehr, I. Magpantay, J. Arpagaus, X. Marquet, M. Vuagnoux, Ang. Chem. 2009, 121, 7357.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
C. Fehr, I. Magpantay, J. Arpagaus, X. Marquet, M. Vuagnoux, Ang. Chem. 2009, 121, 7357.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
(Z)-alkene
Sperm whale
Ambergris chunk
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
31 January 2013
Morecambe beach, Lancashire (UK)
9 lb ambergris chuck
=
130,000
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
Freshly expelled
ambergris
(-)-Ambrein (-)-Ambrox
odorless typicall ambergris
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
Ambergris after
maturation
(-)-Ambrein (-)-Ambrox
odorless typicall ambergris
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
-Ionone
()-Ambrox
D. Helmlinger, to Givaudan, Eur. Pat. Appl. EP 0.585.828, 1994 (Chem. Abstr. 1994, 121, 34867).
R. L. Snowden, J.-C. Eichenberger, S. M. Linder, P. Sonnay, C. Vial, K. H. Schulte-Elte, J. Org. Chem. 1992, 57, 955.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
-Ionone
()-Ambrox
D. Helmlinger, to Givaudan, Eur. Pat. Appl. EP 0.585.828, 1994 (Chem. Abstr. 1994, 121, 34867).
R. L. Snowden, J.-C. Eichenberger, S. M. Linder, P. Sonnay, C. Vial, K. H. Schulte-Elte, J. Org. Chem. 1992, 57, 955.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
-Ionone
()-Ambrox
D. Helmlinger, to Givaudan, Eur. Pat. Appl. EP 0.585.828, 1994 (Chem. Abstr. 1994, 121, 34867).
R. L. Snowden, J.-C. Eichenberger, S. M. Linder, P. Sonnay, C. Vial, K. H. Schulte-Elte, J. Org. Chem. 1992, 57, 955.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
-Ionone
()-Ambrox
D. Helmlinger, to Givaudan, Eur. Pat. Appl. EP 0.585.828, 1994 (Chem. Abstr. 1994, 121, 34867).
R. L. Snowden, J.-C. Eichenberger, S. M. Linder, P. Sonnay, C. Vial, K. H. Schulte-Elte, J. Org. Chem. 1992, 57, 955.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
-Ionone
()-Ambrox
D. Helmlinger, to Givaudan, Eur. Pat. Appl. EP 0.585.828, 1994 (Chem. Abstr. 1994, 121, 34867).
R. L. Snowden, J.-C. Eichenberger, S. M. Linder, P. Sonnay, C. Vial, K. H. Schulte-Elte, J. Org. Chem. 1992, 57, 955.
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
Price : 15,000 / kg
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
Molecules structure
Sambac jasmine analyzed with determination
Heaspace GC/MS
Fragrance and chemistry for more sustainability
Replacing pricy natural absolute with high fidelity synthetic blend : Sampaquita Jasmine
Raspberry ketone
4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)
butan-2-one
White musk are base note that round up and soften the whole
composition. They bring confort and increase the longevity of
the perfumes.
Fragrance and chemistry: improving customer safety
Oakmoss
Chypre (Coty, 1917)
Veramoss (IFF)
Conclusion