 Despite histories that did not include milk

production or consumption, and genes for

lactase impersistence, many populations
are now drinking milk. Consumption is
declining in traditional milk-drinking
countries.
 Why is this milk consumption becoming
globally normative, despite culinary and
genetic differences among populations?
 How does milk contribute to discourse
about “growth” in ways that are
meaningful across the globe?
© 2011 Taylor and Francis
© 2011 Taylor and Francis
 Milk production and consumption in selected countries: 1990-2009.
total per capita kg
milk production (MT) ratio of fluid milk consumption ratio of
Country 1990 2009 2009 to 1990 1990 2009 2009 to 1990
Brazil 14500 28795 1.99 60.9 55.5 0.91

Mexico 6456 11305 1.75 37.7 40.2 1.07

United States 67005 85820 1.28 105.1 91.2 0.87

Canada 7975 8200 1.03 100.8 92.7 0.92

EU-27* - 137815 67.6

New Zealand 7746 16601 2.14 124.7 79.3 0.64

Australia 6435 9670 1.50 102.4 110.0 1.07

Japan 8190 7900 0.96 41.0 33.8 0.82

China 4751 29625 6.24 2.5 8.9 3.55
India 53500 109200 2.04 30.6 39.5 1.29
*European Union, 27 countries. EU-27 did not report statistics in 1990

Source: www.fas.usda.gov/psdonline/psdHome.aspx
Population estimates for per capita calculations from www.nationmaster.com
© 2011 Taylor and Francis
 Growth in milk production and
consumption are highest in developing
countries, particularly in China and India

 Consumption has declined in traditional

milk-drinking countries and in Japan,
where milk consumption surged in the
post-WWII period.

 Dairy industry seeking out new markets

© 2011 Taylor and Francis
© 2011 Taylor and Francis
The Chinese
Food Pagoda
(Source: Reprinted from Journal of
the American Dietetic Association
Dietary Guidelines and the Food
Guide Pagoda. 100(8), Chinese
Nutrition Society, pp. 886–888.
Copyright (2000), with permission
from Elsevier).

India uses the U.S.

Food Pyramid
© 2011 Taylor and Francis
 • Rhetoric emphasizes
that milk will enhance
the growth of Chinese
children and improve
“population quality.”
• Popular understanding
that greater milk
consumption underlies
the larger size of
Western populations
and the success of
their athletes.
• Milk as means by
Billboard featuring Liu Xiang, the which “size deficits”
Olympian hurdler, promoting China- can be overcome in
produced milk (Source: Getty Images. China.
Used with permission). © 2011 Taylor and Francis
 • Milk has a long history of usage in
India
• Cows are worshipped by Hindus and
milk (from both cows and water
buffalo has long been valued as a
food).

• Increase in milk consumption

particularly among the urban middle
class.

• Promotions emphasize milk’s links to

growth, with strong nationalist
overtones.

• Height is highly valued; milk as a way

of gaining height and strength.
Mother Dairy brand milk advertisement © 2011 Taylor and Francis
from India (Source: http://www.
motherdairy.com/campaign.asp).
 In India and China milk is linked to
Westernization and modernity, especially
economic growth and success
 Milk had similar links to modernity in early 20th
century U.S.
 Problems with safety and adulturation are
common.
 In U.S. milk is now promoted as a solution to the
problems of modernity (e.g. chronic diseases).
The link to growth is less compelling in the
context of concerns about “over-size” or
“excess” growth and among an aging
population.
© 2011 Taylor and Francis
 High rates of lactase impersistence do not
seem to be an insurmountable impediment
to the spread of milk drinking.
 Higher rates of consumption among
children, who likely still have some lactase
activity
 Yogurt and yogurt drinks are commonly
consumed and use traditional modes of
preparation –these reduce exposure to
lactose.
 No longer clear distinction between Marvin
Harris’s “lactophiles” and “lactophobes”
© 2011 Taylor and Francis