SKIN CARE

COSMETICS
Christina Avanti
Purpose of skin care cosmetics
1. Clean the skin
2. Preserve the skin’s moisture balance
3. Stimulate skin metabolism
4. Protect the skin from harmful ultraviolet radiation
Function of skin care cosmetics
• Support skin homeostasis function.
• cleansing,
• anti-drying,
• ultraviolet damage prevention,
• antioxidation
• clear up skin problems,
• whitening effect
• to prevent wrinkles, sagging skin and acne.
 Makeup removal
Face
cleansers
Face washing

Moisture retention
Basic care lotions
Humectant effect

Moisture retention

Humectant effect
Emulsions
Provide oil

Promote skin metabolism

Essences

Massage creams
Additional care
Packs

Powders
Roles of skin care cosmetics

• Maintain homeostasis in the skin

• Restore the skin to keep healthy and beautiful
• Delay aging in the skin
• Provide a solution to skin problems
Face cleansing cosmetics
Important consideration:
1. The object to be cleansed (skin surface)
2. The type of dirt adhering to the skin surface
3. The type of product to be used for the
cleansing
4. The cleansing method
Product Form (Formula type) Features
type
easy to use and feel good : but
Solid (soap, transparent soap, skin feels tight afterwards
neutral soap)

Special face cleanser with

excellent feeling and feather. It is
easy to use. Bases may be
Cream + paste (cleansing foam) selected in the range weakly
acidic to alkaline depending on
Surfactant- the purpose
based type
Weakly acidic to alkaline. The
Liquid or viscous liquid type weakly acidic base produces a
(cleansing gel) strong cleansing. The main type
of cleanser for hair and body

Granule/powder form Easy to use. As they contain no

(cleansing powder, face water, papain or other enzyme
cleansing powder) may be incorporated.
Product type Form (Formula type) Features
There are two types:
-which comes out like a shaving foam
Surfactant – Aerosol type (shaving foam - a gel which becomes a foam on use
based type type, after foaming type) (after-foaming type).

The emulsion type uses mainly the O/W

Cream + pastes (cleansing emulsion. The type in which oils are
cream) made into a gel has high cleansing
power. For heavy makeup.

O/W emulsion milky milk. Lighter feeling

Solvent-type Milky lotion (cleansing milk) after use than with cleansing cream. Easy
based to use.

Cleansing lotion. Contains large amounts

of nonionic surfactants, alcohol and
Liquid form (cleansing lotion) humectants. There is also a physical
cleansing effect as it is wiped off with
cotton wool. For light makeup.
Product type Form (Formula type) Features
The emulsion and liquid crystal types
containing a lot of oils have high
Solvent-based cleansing power and are rinsed off.
Gel (cleansing gel)
type They give a light feeling after rinsing
off. The water soluble polymer gel
type has low cleansing power.
Ingredients like surfactants and
alcohol are added to the oil in small
amounts. Rinsed off. When rinsed
Oil (cleansing oil)
off forms W/O emulsion. Soft and
moist feeling after use.

Peel-off mask employing water

soluble polymers. Skin has strong
feeling of being stretched. Removes
Others Pack (cleansing mask)
dirt from skin surface and pores
when peeled off.
 Ingredient Typical raw materials
C12~C18 fatty acids, oleic acid. Isostearic acid,
Soap (cleansing
Higher fatty acids 12-hydroxy stearic acid, plant and animal-
agent)
derived fatty acids
Sodium hydroxide. Potassium hydroxide,
Alkalis
triethanol amine.
Amino surfactants (N-acyl glutamic aid salts), acylmethyl taurine,
Otehrs POE alkyl ether phosphate salts, glycerol fatty acid ester, POE
surfactants glycerol fatty acid ester, POE alkyl ether, POE-POP block
copolymer
Fatty acids, higher alcohols, lanolin derivatives, beeswax, jojoba
Emollients (oils)
oil, olive oil, coconut oil
sorbitol., multitol, polyethylene glycol (300, 400, 600, 1500,
Humectants 4000), glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene
glycol, POE glucose derivatives
Ingre- Typical raw materials
dient
Preservatives, Ethyl paraben
water soluble Sodium acrylate, cationic polymers,
polymers, sodium alginate
scrubbing Low molecular weight polyethylene
granules, powder, nylon powder, etc
Others chelating EDTA and its salts, sodium
agents, hexametaphospate
Pharmaceutical Sulfur, glycyrrhizinic acid salts,
agents triclocarban

Colors, perfumes, antioxidants, purified water

General manufacturing methods for
cleansing foams
Higher fatty acid
Higher fatty alcohols
Oil phase Emollient (oil) Heating Stirring
Humectant dissolution 700C Mixing
Preservative Strong stirring

Purified water Dissolution

Water phase
Alkalis

Other surfactants Stirring

Chelating agent Mixing
Perfume
Pharmaceutical agent
Coloring agent Deairing

Filtering

Cooling
Types of cleansing foam
1. Higher fatty acid-based cleansing foams
2. Amino acid-based cleansing foams
 Lotion
Transparent liquid applied to the skin for the purpose of cleansing
and keeping it in healthy conditions and also helps maintain its
moisture balance

Types of lotion
1. Softening lotion
2. Astringent lotion
3. Cleansing lotion
 Type Purpose
Supplies moisture and humectants to the horny
Softening lotion layer to make the skin soft and keep it feeling
smooth and moist
Has astringent action as well as supplying
moisture and humectants to horny layer. Inhibits
Astringent lotion
sebum secretion. Gives light feeling on use and
prevents makeup from spoiling
Used to remove light makeup or as a face skin
cleanser. A lot of surfactants, humectants and
Cleansing lotion
alcohol are included in formulae to enhance the
cleansing action on the skin.
Lotion consisting of 2 or more layers. Most have 2
layers which are either oil and water or water and
powder. Unlike other lotions, they are shaken
Multi-layer lotion before use when they become either a milky
lotion or a powder dispersion. A major one of this
type is calamine lotion.
General method for manufacturing
lotions
Mixing
Purified water Dissolution
Water phase Humectant Solubilization
Room temperature
Buffer
Anti-fading agent

Ethanol Dissolution
Preservative
Alcohol phase Room temperature
Perfume
Solubilizer
Emollient
Coloring
Coloring agent Toning

Filtering

Filling
Milky lotions
Intermediate to that of lotions and
creams. They are emulsions which contain
little oil and have high fluidity.
Purpose and functions of milky lotions
Purpose - function
Moisturizing/softening the skin
Stimulate skin circulaiton/increase softness
Cleansing/makeup removal
Uv protectionnotes
(daily use sun protection products)
Product category
Emollient lotion
(Have such names as Moisture Lotion, Milky lotion,
Nourishing Lotion. Nourishing Milk, Skin Moisture and
Moisture Emulsion. The emulsion type, oil and humectant
amounts and other factors are adjusted to suit the season,
different skin types and user preferences)
Massage Lotion
Cleansing Lotion
Sun Protect
(Called such names as Protect Emulsion. Sun Protector. UV
Care Milk)

Others (refer to the relevant sections)

Ultraviolet protection Sunscreen
Under makeup cream Makeup Lotion
Soften horny layer Horny layer Smoother
Elbow Lotion
Protect hair Hair Milk
For the body and hands Hand Lotion
Body Lotion
Types of milky lotion formulae and products
Oil
Emulsion
Emulsifier amount Tipycal products
type
(%)
O/W type Soap (higher fatty acid soap) Emollient Lotion
3~30 Sun Protect
Soap + non-ionic surfactant Hand Lotion
Non-ionic surfactant 10~50 Cleansing Lotion, Emollient Lotion
Water soluble polymer (polyer Massage Lotion, Emollient Lotion
10~40
emulsification)
Protein-based surfactant (protein Emollient lotion
10~40
emulsification)
W/O type Non-ionic surfactant 30~50
Massage Lotion
Organically modified clay minerals Emollient Lotion

Multiple Non-ionic surfactant (type are two types of emulsion-

Emulsion W/O/W and O/W/O. there are hardly
- any multiple emulsion products on the
market because there are many
stability problems with them)
 General method for manufacturing
milky lotions
Purified water Heating Emulsification Stirring
Humectant Dissolution Mixing
Water phase Chelating agents 60-700C
Alkalis
Coloring agent Emulsification
equipement

Heating Heating
Oil Dissolution
(include higher Dissolution Deairing
70-750C 60-700C
fatty acids)

Oil phase Surfactant Filtering

Pharmaceutical agent
UV absorbent Cooling
Preservative
Perfume
Storage

Filling
Creams
Creams are a skin care cosmetic which have been in general
use since way back in history.
 Purpose and functions of creams
Purpose/function
Moisturizing and softening action
Stimulate circulation, soften skin
Cleansing, makeup removal, etc
Under makeup cream, makeup base
Other specific purposes
eg. : UV protection
Depilatory action
Hairstyling
Deodorant
Shaving
Horny layer softening
Product type
Emollient creams (Nutrient Cream, Nourishing
cream, Moisture Cream, Vanishing Cream, Night
Cream, etc. in which the emulsion type, amount of
oil and humectant are varied to cater to the
season, skin type, preference, etc.)
Massage Cream
Cleansing Cream
Makeup Cream, Base cream, Pre-makeup Cream
Sunscreen Cream, Suntan Cream
Hair Remover
Hair Cream
Deodorant Cream
Shaving Cream
Horny Layer Softening Cream
 Formulation of different creams
Main ingredients Typical example
Cream Oil phase
type Emulsifier
Proportion Typical products Former naming
(%)
•Higher fatty acid soap Product with
•Non-ionic surfactant 10~20% oil phase
O/W •Protein-based and soap as the
10~30 Emollient Cream
type surfactant main emulsifier,
•Soap+non-ionic called Vanishing
surfactant Cream
30~50 •Beeswaax+borax+non-
ionic surfactant Emollient Cream Medium Cream
Massage Cream,
50~85
Cleansing Cream, Cold Cream
Emollient Cream
 Main ingredients Typical example
Crea
m Oil phase
Former
type Proportion Emulsifier Typical products
naming
(%)
20~50 •Non-ionic Emollient Cream -
surfactant
•Amino acid+Non-
ionic
surfactant(amino
W/O acid gel Massage Cream,
type emulsification) Cleansing Cream,
50~85 Cold Cream
•Organically Emollient Cream
modified clay
mineral
•Soap+non-ionic
surfactant
Anhyd
rous Liquefying Cream
100 Oily gelling agent -
oily (Cleansing Cream)
type
 Process chart for O/W type cream

Purified water Preliminary

Heat Emulsification Deairing
Water phase
Humectant emulsification About 700C
About 700C
Filtering
Fats, waxes
Liquid oil Heating dissolution stirring Cooling
Oil phase Surfactant 70-800C About 700C
Preservative
Storage

Perfume Filling

*Homomixer used
**Heat exchanger used
 Process chart of W/O type cream
Purified water Heat
Water phase Humectant
About 700C

Fats, waxes
Liquid oil Heating/Dissolution Stirring Preliminary
Oil phase Surfactant Emulsification
70-800C About 700C emulsification
Preservative
About 700C
Deairing

Perfume
Filtering

Cooling

Storage

Filling