Cutting Room

Costs
The cutting room has a greater effect on excessive
manufacturing costs than any other department
concerned with the actual production of garments.

 Internal costs – those incurred in the cutting

room itself.

 External costs – those incurred by other

departments as a result of the malfunctions of
the cutting room.
Internal costs
 Labour : Effective utilisation

 Material : 50% to 70% of the cost price of

most of the mass produced clothing and
largest cost component of a garment

 Efficiency
The factors influencing materials
utilization

Pattern accuracy

Marker waste

Spreading waste
External costs
 Coordination
 Defects
 Matching
 Accuracy
 Sewing
 Shading
 Quality
Production Process in the Cutting
Room

 Planning
 Spreading
 Cutting
 Preparation for sewing
Production process in the Cutting Room
Spreads

Markers
Planning
Production

Manual
Spreading
Machine

Machine

Die Press
Cutting

Computer

Shade marking/ticketing
Preparation
for sewing
Bundles
Cut order planning
 It translates customer orders into cutting orders
 coordinate customer orders with all the variables of marker
making, spreading, and cutting
 minimize total production costs
 meet deadlines
 seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space
Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning
 Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability
 Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making
 Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed
 Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization

 Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and

personnel

 Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

Most common considerations
1) Number of sizes in order
2) Number of colors in order
3) Max/min number of sizes allowed in marker
4) Maximum spread length
5) Maximum ply height
6) Percentage of overcut or undercut units
7) Fabric cost per yard
8) Usable cloth width
9) Width variation
10) Common lines among pattern pieces
11) Costs of marking markers, spreading, cutting, bundling
12) Fabric roll change time
 Results of
Cut Order Planning

Cutting Orders
Leads to

Marker planning Lay planning

Marker planning
 is to determine the most efficient combination of
sizes and shades for each order and to produce
the best fabric yield and equipment utilization
Lay
 is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared
for cutting
Lay planning
 is the basis of managing cutting room labor and
table space
Marker Making
Marker
 is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern
pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut
from a single spread.

Marker Making
 is the process of determining the most efficient
layout of pattern pieces for a specified style,
fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time,
skill and concentration)
 Marker Making

Manually produced Computerized marker making

Dimensions of marker
 Markers are made to fit the cuttable widths of
fabrics.
 Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the
pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.
 Continuous markers contain all the pattern
pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.
Splice marks are points in marker where fabric
can be cut and the next piece overlapped to
maintain a continuous spread. They are planned
in continuous marker.
 a. Sectioned or Blocked Marker

A STEPPED SPREAD

plies of varied length, spread at different heights

used to adjust the quantity of piece goods to the number
of garments to be cut from each section of the marker
Sections may be joined to form multi-size marker.
Pattern parts of one size in close proximity.
Advantageous when there is end-to-end shade variations.
 b. Continuous Marker

Contain all pattern pieces for all sizes included in a

single cutting.
Pattern pieces are grouped by size and shape of the
pieces rather than by garment size.
Better utilization because more flexibility in grouping
and manoeuvring large pieces and small pieces.
 SPLICE MARKER

Splice marks are points in a marker where

fabrics can be cut and the next piece overlapped
to maintain a continuous spread.
Maybe 1 inch or more.
Splices are needed when flaws are removed, a
roll change is made, or a short length of fabric is
used.
SPLICE MARKER

Splice marks are inherent when markers are

planned in blocks.
Splice marks are used to avoid excessive
fabric waste and incomplete pieces.
Types of Markers
Open marker – Marker made with full
pattern pieces

Closed Marker – Marker made with half

garment parts pieces for laying along the
folds of the tube (tubular knit)
Open marker
Closed Marker
Marker Modes
Is determined by the symmetry and directionality of
fabric.

 Nap either way (N/E/W)

 Nap one way (N/O/W)
 Nap up and down (N/U/D)
 The term Nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional.

N/E/W –with symmetric, non directional fabrics, pattern

pieces can be placed on a marker with only
consideration for grain line

N/O/W – all the pattern pieces be placed on a marker in

only one direction, horse print

N/U/D – all pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one

direction and another size placed in opposite direction.
eg. corduroy
ONE – WAY MARKER
Requirements of Marker Planning

1. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the

finished garment
 Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric
 Symmetry and asymmetry
 The design characteristic of the finished garment

2. The requirements of cutting quality

3. The requirements of production planning
Marker Efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan

 It is determined for fabric utilization

 Minimum waste
Factors effecting Marker Efficiency
 Fabric characteristics
 Characteristics of Pattern pieces, splitting
pattern pieces and creating a seam , reducing
seam allowances, hemwidth, adjusting and
modifying grainline, etc
Difference in face and back – print,
velvet, corduroy
Lengthwise directionality - NAP
Crosswise symmetry – Border print
Need for matching the fabric design –
mitering
Length of design repeat – small/big checks
Fabric width.
Markers containing large and small pcs 

The shape of pattern pcs.

Large pcs – less flexibility 

 Patterns are sometimes modified to increase efficiency

Splitting pattern pcs. and creating a seam

Rounding or slanting corners

Reducing seam allowance and/or hem width

Adjusting pattern dimensions without
noticeable change to fit & style.

Adjusting grain lines for hidden garment

parts.

Modifying grain lines specified by the

designer
 Plotting

The process of drawing or printing

pattern pieces or markers on paper so
they can be reviewed or cut.
Spreading
processes of superimposing lengths of fabric
on a spreading table cutting table or
specially designed surface in preparation
for the cutting process
Spread or lay-up
total amount of fabric prepared for a single
marker.
Spreading mode
Spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies
are laid out for cutting

Direction of the fabric:

 it may be positioned in two ways face-to-
face (F/F) or with all plies facing-one-way
(F/O/W)
Direction of the Fabric Nap:
 it may be positioned nap-one-way (N/O/W)
or nap-up-down
Spreading modes

F/O/W
N/O/W

F/F
N/O/W

F/F
N/U/D

F/O/W
N/U/D
Requirements of Spreading
process
 Shade sorting of cloth pieces
 Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
 Alignment of plies
 Correct ply tension
 Elimination of fabric faults
 Avoidance of distortion in the spread
 Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
Setup for spreading
 Verifying cutting orders
 Positioning materials
 Preparing cutting tables
 Preparing machines
 Loading machine
Reloading and delay time may use up to 70% of
the time required for the entire spreading
operation.
Methods of spreading

 Spreading by hand
 Spreading using a travelling machine
(100 to 150 yards per minute)
Fabric control devices
 Tensioning involves synchronizing the rate of
spreading with the rate fabric is unrolled
 Positioning devices and sensors monitor
position and control fabric placement during
spreading. (to improve quality in spreading)
Fabric control devices
 Width indicators may sound an alarm to alert
the operator when fabric becomes narrower
than the established width
 End treatment device are used with spreaders
but are separate and placed at the end of the
spread (end catcher and folding blade)
The nature of fabric packages
 Open fabric – rolled
 Tubular knitted fabric – rolled
 Folded fabric – rolled
 Folded fabric – cuttled
 Velvet - hanging
Open fabric – rolled

Folded fabric – rolled

Tubular knitted fabric – rolled
Spreading costs
 Labour cost
 Fabric Waste
 Splicing loss occurs with excessive overlap at splice
marks
 End loss occurs when the spreader reaches the end
of the marker and fabric must be cut from the roll or
folded back for the return lap
 Width loss occurs when the fabric is wider than the
marker and the extra fabric is not used
 Equipment purchase
Cut order plan
 Cutting room manager issues lays to
satisfy two requirements:

 The targets given in the cutting schedule

 The most economic batch size (economic
cut quantity)
Overview of economic cut quantity factors
Width of fabric Marker Type
Number of sizes

Contract details
MARKER UTILISATION

Fabric Properties Essential laying losses

Quality constraints ECONOMIC CUT Labour costs

QUANTITIES

Equipment constraints Material availability

Sewing room needs

Production rates Delivery deadlines

Disruptions
CUSTOMER REQUIREMENTS
Cutting plan example 1
 The contract details are as follows
 Size 10 12 14 16 18
 Quantity 40 90 80 25 25
The constraints on lay dimensions are:
Maximum lay height = 50 plies
Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked
The limit of four garments marked may seem
rather contrived but it allows the concepts to
be explained more easily
 It is useful to determine the theoretical minimum
number of lays required to cut the contract:
 Max no of gmts per lay is 4X50=200gmts
 The no. of gmts required = 40+90+80+25+25

=260 gmts
There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays
= 260/200 = 1.3
This gives a practical minimum of two lays to
cut the contract – the best that is possible
 Lay 1

Lay 2

The contract details

Size 10 12 14 16 18
Quantity 40 90 80 25 25

The worked solution is:

16 18 12 12 Lay 1 – 25 plies

10 14 14 12 Lay 2 – 40 plies
Cutting plan example 2
 The contract details are follows
 Size 12 14 16 18
 Quantity 100 160 120 60
the constraints on lay dimensions are:
Maximum lay height = 60 plies
Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked
 Theoretical minimum no. of lays required
are:
Max no of garments per lay is 4X60=240 gmts
The no. of garments required = 100+160+120+60
= 440 garments
There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays = 440/240
= 1.83

This gives a practical minimum of two lays to cut the

contract.
Lay 1 16 16 18 18 Lay 1- 60 plies

Lay 2 12 12 14 14 Lay 2 – 50 plies

 Cutting plan example 3
The contract details are as follows:

Size S M L
Quantity 300 600 400

The constraints on lay dimensions are:

Maximum lay height = 75 plies

Maximum lay length = 5 garments marked
Theoretical minimum no. of lays required are:

Max no of garments per lay is 5X75 = 375 gmts

The no. of garments required = 300+600+400
= 1300 garments
There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays = 1300/375
= 3.47

This gives a practical minimum of four lays to cut the

contract.
S S S S S Lay 1- 60 plies

M M M L L Lay 2 - 75 plies

M M M L L Lay 3 - 75 plies

M M M L L Lay 4 - 50 plies
COSTING OF CUT ORDER PLAN
– MATERIAL COSTS ( Example 4)
 You have received the following contract:

Quantity 1200
Size A B C D E
Quantity 1 2 4 2 1
Single gmt marker lengths (m) : 2.0 2.2 2.4 2.5 2.6

Other relevant information:

End allowance 3 cm per ply
Maximum number of plies 100
Maximum lay length 10 meters
Cost of the fabric is 3$
Cloth saving on multi-size or multi-garment marker is 5%
1. Determine targets:
Theoretical minimum no. of lays is a little more
complicated as the maximum no. of garments
must be inferred. Since the average length is
about 2.3 m per garment, the maximum
number marked will be 4
Theoretical minimum no. of lays = 1200/4X100
=3
Since quantities are not in multiples of 100,
three lays is an impossibility consequently,
the target must be four lays
2. Consider options
3. Make decision
A A E E Lay 1- 60 plies

B C C D Lay 2- 80 plies

B C C D Lay 3 - 80 plies

B C C D Lay 4 - 80 plies
4. Calculation of material

Marker for lay 1 (2.0+2.0+2.6+2.6) X 95/100 = 8.740 m

Marker for lays 2-4 (2.2+2.4+2.4+2.5) X 95/100 = 9.025 m

Ply lengths
Ply length for lay 1 8.740 + 0.030 = 8.770 m
Ply length for lays 2-4 9.025 + 0.030 = 9.055 m

Lay lengths
Lay length for lay 1 8.770 X 60 = 526.20 m
Lay length for lays 2-4 9.055 X 80= 724.40 m

Material costs
Total length 526.20 + (724.40 X3) = 2699.40 m
Total cost 2699.40 X 3.00 = 8098.20 $