Handle Properties of Fabric

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FIRST PART
©2004 www.vasantkothari.com 1
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INTRODUCTION
ɘ Aside from the visual color and design characteristics, there
are a number of physical attributes of fabrics that primarily affect
their aesthetic qualities.
ɘ The way a fabric feels when touched or the way it drapes are
of interest in product development.
ɘ Yet, despite their importance, these properties are among the
hardest to measure, and few standard methods have been
developed for determining them.
ɘ Traditionally, producers, retailers and consumers have
evaluated these properties subjectively and by practical
experience.
ɘ Aesthetic properties may be even more subjective than many
other aspects of textiles because what one person perceives as
appealing, another may find unappealing.
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Flexibility : ease of bending

Compressibility : ease of squeezing
xtensibility : ease of stretching
Resilience : ability to recover from
deformation
Density : mass / volume
Surface Counter : divergence of the surface from
the fabric plane
Surface Friction : resistance to slipping
Thermal Character : apparent difference in
temperature of the fabric and
©2004 skin
STIFFN SS
Stiffness is an important
characteristic of a fabric. The
importance of stiffness depends
on the end use of the fabric e.g.
a fabric required for a skirt
should have lower stiffness as
compared to suiting fabrics.
The most commonly instrument used for measurement of

stiffness of a fabric is Shirley Stiffness Tester. A rectangular strip of
fabric 6 in.X1 in. is mounted on a horizontal platform in such a way
that it overhangs, like a cantilever, and bends downwards. The
three test specimens cut parallel to the warp and three parallel to
the weft so that no two warp specimens contain the same warp
threads,
©2004 and no two weft specimens contain the same weft threads. 6
www.vasantkothari.com
The horizontal platform of the instrument is supported by two pieces
made of plastics.
These side pieces have engraved on them index lines at the standard
angle of deflection of 41½o, at which angle (41½o) = 0.5.
Attached to the instrument is a mirror which enables the operator to view
both index lines from a convenient position.
The scale of the instrument is graduated in centimeters of bending
length and it also serves as the template for cutting the specimen to size.
After cutting the specimen, both template and specimen are transferred
to the platform with the fabric underneath.
oth are slowly pushed forward.
The strip of fabric will commence to drop over the edge of the platform
and the movement of the template and the fabric is continued until the tip
of the specimen viewed in the mirror cuts both index lines.
The bending length can immediately be read off from the scale mark
©2004
opposite a zero line engravedwww.vasantkothari.com
on the side of the platform. 7
Four readings are taken from each specimen, one face up and
one face down on the first end, and then the same for the second end.
The mean bending length for warp and weft is calculated. The
higher the bending length, the stiffer is the fabric. ending length is the
length of fabric that will bend under its own weight to a definite extent.
FL XURAL RIGIDITY (G) : The flexural rigidity is the ratio of the small
change in bending moment per unit width of the material to the
corresponding small change in curvature i.e. a measure of stiffness
associated with handle:
FLEXURAL RIGIDITY (G) = 3.39 x w1 c3 mg/cm = w2 c3 x 103 mg/cm
Where :
W 1 = cloth weight in ounce per square yard
W 2 = cloth weight in gram per square centimeter
C = ending Length
ending modulus ( q ) : The stiffness of a fabric in bending is very
dependent on its thickness, the thicker the fabric, the stiffer it is if all other
factors remain the same. The bending modulus is independent of the
dimensions of the strip tested so that by analogy with solid materials it is a
measure of 'intrinsic stiffness'.
32 G 12 G x 10-6
Bending Modulus ( q ) = ----------- kg/cm2 or ------------------ kg/cm2
g13 g23
Where : g1 = cloth thickness in thousands of an inch

g2 = cloth thickness in centimeters
NDING L NGTH
The relationship among the length of the overhanging strip, the
angle that it bends to and the flexural rigidity, G, of the fabric is a complex
one which was solved empirically by Peirce to give the formula:
The bending length is

dependent on the weight of the
fabric and is therefore an important
component of the drape of a fabric C = L V1(ș)
when it is hanging under its own
weight. The bending length is The trouble of calculating
related to the angle that the fabric the function of ș can be avoided
makes to the horizontal by the by using standard instrument
following relation: where angle is chosen in such a
©2004 way that V1(ș) = 0.5
TH H ART LOOP T ST
Fabrics that are too limp to give a satisfactory result by the
cantilever method may have their stiffness measured by forming them
into a loop and allowing it to hang under its own weight. A strip of fabric
of length L has its two ends clamped together to form a loop. The
undistorted length of the loop /O, from the grip to the lowest point, has
been calculated for three different loop shapes: the ring, pear and heart
shapes as shown in Fig. If the actual length / of the loop hanging under
its own weight is measured the stiffness can be calculated from the
difference between the calculated and measured lengths Ñ
Where :
DRAP
Drape is the term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its
own weight.
It has an important bearing on how good a garment looks in use.
The draping qualities required from a fabric will differ completely
depending on its end use, therefore a given value for drape cannot be
classified as either good or bad.
nitted fabrics are relatively floppy and Woven fabrics are relatively stiff.
The Drapability of a fabric
depends on many factors such as
weave, cover factor, finish, etc.
Fabric with different weaves but
similar cover factor show difference
in drapability.
xamples : How Curtains hang?;
the appearance of skirt ; or the
hanging
©2004 cloth over the table. www.vasantkothari.com 13
The most commonly used instrument for measuring Drape is
CUSI
DRAP
In the T R.
test a circular
specimen about 10in. diameter is
held concentrically between two
smaller horizontal discs about 5in.
in diameter and the unsupported
area drapes over the edge under
its own weight. A light is shone
from underneath the specimen as
shown in Fig. and the shadow that
the fabric casts is traced onto an
annular piece of paper the same
size as the unsupported part of
the fabric specimen. The stiffer a
fabric is, the larger is the area of
its shadow compared with the
unsupported
©2004 area of the fabric.
A value known as drape coefficient F is
determine by considering the following :
AD = the area of specimen
Ad = the area of supporting disc
As = actual projected area of specimen
The Drape coefficient is given by«
As - Ad
F = --------------
AD - Ad
The Drape Coefficient, F, is the ratio of the projected area of the
draped specimen to its undraped area, after deduction of the area of
supporting disc.
In practice, it is very difficult to measure

the area AS as its shape is complicated
one. To measure the areas involved, the
whole paper ring is weighed and then the
shadow part of the ring is cut away and
weighed. The paper is assumed to have
constant mass per unit area so that the
measured mass is proportional to area.
The drape coefficient can then be
calculated using the following equation:
The higher the drape coefficient the

stiffer
©2004
is the fabric. www.vasantkothari.com 16
At least two specimens should be used, the fabric being tested both
ways up so that a total of six measurements are made on the same specimen.
There are three diameters of specimen that can be used:
Ȑ A 24cm for limp fabrics; drape coefficient below 30% with the 30cm sample;
Ȑ 30cm for medium fabrics;
Ȑ C 36cm for stiff fabrics; drape coefficient above 85% with the 30cm sample.
Figure shows a drape

tester fitted with a video
camera and computer for
instantaneous measurement of
the drape coefficient. It is
clamed that it gives results
equivalent to those obtained
with the conventional manual
method. oreover it does not
require as much time and skill.
CR AS R COV RY
Circular Dial
Clamp
Specimen
Leveling Screw nife dge
Õ Creasing of a fabric during wear is not a change in
appearance that is generally desired.
Õ The ability of a fabric to resist creasing is in the first instance
dependent on the type of fibre used in its construction.
Õ Creasing of a fabric results in the bending of constituent
fibres.
Õ Some fibre types such as wool and cultivated silk have a
good resistance to creasing whereas cellulosic materials such
as cotton, viscose and linen have a very poor resistance to
creasing.
Õ Many fabrics have resin finishes applied during production in
order to improve their crease resistance.
Õ This test was originally developed to test the efficiency of
such finishes.
Õ Crease recovery is measured quantitatively in terms of
crease recovery angle.
Õ The resistance to creasing
©2004
should be distinguished from the
ability to recover the creases already formed in the fabric.
A wrinkle free rectangular specimen
is folded in half and compressed
under a load for a specific time. The
load is then removed and the
specimen is allowed to recover for
the specified time. The amount of
recovery is expressed as the angle
between the limbs of the fold which
called crease recovery angle.
The test can be carried out in two atmospheres, either the standard one or at
90% RH and 350C.
Twenty rectangular specimens are tested, each measuring 40mm X 15 mm,
half of the specimens cut parallel to the warp and half parallel to the weft.
In the test the specimens are folded in two, the ends being held by tweezers.
Half the specimens are folded face to face and half of them back to back.
The specimens are then placed under a 10 N load for 5min.
They are then transferred immediately to the holder of the measuring
instrument and one leg of the specimen is inserted as far as the back stop.
The instrument is adjusted continuously to keep the free limb of the specimen
vertical as shown in Fig.
The crease recovery angle is measured, by reading the scale when the free
limb is vertical, 5 min after the removal of the load.
The following mean values are calculated
When a fabric is creased the resulting deformation has two components:
one is the displacement of fibres and yarns relative to one another and
the second is the stretching of the fibres on the outside of the curve.
The relative importance of these two mechanisms depends on the
radius of the curve that the fabric is bent into.
The smaller the radius of curvature, the more likely it is that the fibres
are actually stretched rather than the curvature being accommodated by
fibre displacement.
The unaided recovery of the fabric from creasing depends on the elastic
recovery of the fibres.
The elastic recovery of the fibres is dependent on the time-related
effects, such as stress relaxation.
The Test should including the following :

The Type of fabric tested
Number of test performed
Load Applied
Time of Creasing
Time of Recovery
ean Crease Recovery Angle
©2004 Warp way www.vasantkothari.com
specimen 22
Weft way specimen
THICN SS
¼ It might be expected that the thickness of a fabric is one of its basic
properties giving information on its warmth, heaviness or stiffness in use.
¼ In practice thickness measurements are rarely used as they are very
sensitive to the pressure used in the measurement.
¼ Instead fabric weight per unit area is used commercially as an indicator
of thickness.
¼ When a fabric is compressed, the space between the fibres is decreased
until they eventually come into contact with one another.
Heal¶ s Thickness Gauge
Several points require consideration in the practical application :
ˀ e nd ize of Presser foot : A circular foot is usually used
having diameter of Ǫ in. The ratio of the foot diameter to the cloth
thickness should not lass than 5 : 1.
ˀ e nd ize of t e Anvil : When a circular anvil is used it should
be at least 2 in. greater in diameter than the presser foot. In addition, if
sample is large there should be suitable support, like smooth plane
board, to the anvil.
ˀ Alied Pressure : Preferred pressures are recommended and may
be specified, e.g. 0.1 lb/in2 , or 10.0 lb/in2. Suitable weights may be added
to the presser foot to obtain these pressure.
ˀ Velocity of Presser Foot : The pressure foot should be lowered on to
the sample slowly at about 2/1000 in./sec.
ˀ Time : The thickness is read from the dial of the instrument when the
easily visible movement of the pointer has stopped.
ˀ Indiction of t ickness : A clock type dial gauge is rigidly mounted on
thickness tester. After setting to zero, it should be capable of measuring
to©2004
an accuracy of 1% for cloths of 5/1000 in. or more, and to 0.00005 24
www.vasantkothari.com in.
for thinner fabrics.
Three stages in the deformation of a fabric have been identified.
Firstly the individual fibres protruding from the surface are
compressed. The resistance to compression in this region comes from
the bending of the fibres.
Secondly contact is made with the surface of the yarn, at which
point the inter-yarn and/or inter-fibre friction provides the resistance to
compression until the fibres are all in contact with one another.
In the third stage the resistance is provided by the lateral
compression of the fibres themselves.
In the first and third stages of compression elastic deformation is

taking place, whereas in the second stage it is frictional forces that have
to be overcome both in compression and also in the subsequent
recovery.
The forces, which cause the fabric to regain most of its original
thickness after compression, come from the elastic recovery of the fibres
from bending and lateral compression.
Surface Hair x30
Optical method for measuring thickness

Figure shows the change in thickness with pressure for a soft
fabric together with the recovery in thickness as the pressure is removed.
The steep initial slope of the curve makes it very difficult to measure
thickness with any accuracy as a small change in pressure in this region
causes a large change in measured thickness.
The hysteresis between the loading and unloading curves is due
to the internal friction of the fabric. The difference in thickness at a given
low pressure between the loading and unloading cycles can be used as a
measure of resilience. There is, however, a time element involved as the
©2004 www.vasantkothari.com
fabric thickness can recover slowly with time after being compressed. 26
SH AR
The behaviour of a
fabric when it is subjected to
shearing forces is one of the
factors that determines how it
will perform when subjected to a
wide variety of complex
deformations during use.
A rectangular element of material A CD is subjected to pairs of

equal and opposite stresses which are acting parallel to the side of the
element. In the case of simple shear it is assumed that the element
deforms to a position shown by A 'C'D in such a way that its area remains
constant. The shear strain is defined as the tangent of the change in angle
between the side of the element ș. For elastic materials there is a linear
relationship between shear stress and the shear strain tan ș :
G tn ș
where
©2004 G is the shear modulus.
However, the shear
deformation that is found in
fabrics is not in general a
simple shear at constant area
nor does it confirm to any other
simple theoretical model such
as the length of the sides of the
original rectangle remaining
constant.
In this method the fabric is held rigidly by clamps at the top and bottom. A
vertical force 2 is applied to the fabric by using a weighted bottom clamp.
The horizontal force which is required to move the bottom clamp
laterally is measured together with the shear angle ș. However, in this
experimental configuration the applied force is not equal to the shearing
force as a quantity 2 ș has to be subtracted from the applied force.
This factor arises because as the clamp is displaced laterally it is also
raised vertically so that an extra force of W tan ș has to be supplied in
order to do this. Therefore:
©2004 Effective www.vasantkothari.com
er Force = F ± W tn ș 28
ore refined versions of this
apparatus have been designed to
fit directly onto standard tensile
testing machines so that shearing
can take place in each direction.
With such apparatus a full shear
stress-strain curve can be plotted
over one full cycle, a specimen of
which is shown in Fig.
Initially the line from the origin is followed to A, at which point the
load is reversed and the line then goes through to C. At this point the
sample has been sheared to the same angle in the opposite direction, the
load is again reversed and the sample is taken through a further half cycle
back to A. The path through A CD will then be followed on any subsequent
shearing cycle. It can be seen from this example that hysteresis occurs
when the direction of shear is reversed. This is due to the fact that when a
fabric is sheared, most of the force expended is used in overcoming the
frictional forces that exist at the intersection of warp and weft. These
frictional forces always oppose the applied shearing force whichever
direction it is applied.
ias xtension e
IAS XT NSION
Spivak and Treloar analysed the bias
xtension of fabrics but made the
assumption of inextensible warp and weft
yarns so that a fabric acts like a trellis
pivoted at the thread intersections as shown
diagrammatically in Fig. They calculated
that the shear strain in simple shear is
equivalent to:
tnș § ö
V
where è is the bias extension.
For infinitesimal strains this reduces
to er strin =
The corresponding shear stress
for infinitesimal strains is:
where ÿ is the applied
tensile force and and 2
have the same meanings
as in simple shear above.
The forces are usually
expressed in terms of
force per unit length.
Formability
Among the fabric properties that are specifically required in garment
construction it is necessary to identify the need for a fabric to be able to
be compressed in the plane of the fabric without buckling.
For instance at the cuff or collar of a garment the fabric is turned over
on itself which means that the inner layer of fabric has to conform to a
smaller radius of curvature than the outer layer.
In order to do this the outer layer has to stretch and the inner layer has
to contract. If the fabric is unable to accommodate this change in length
the inner layer will pucker.
The ability to deform in this manner was given the title of formability
and it is a measure of the amount of compression that a fabric can
undergo before it buckles.
The measurement of formability is derived from the bending stiffness
of the fabric and its modulus of compression.
The compression modulus cannot be measured directly as the fabric
quickly buckles.
It is, however, derived from the extension modulus by assuming that at
small strains, around zero on the force extension curve, the slope of the
curve is the same at positive and negative stresses as shown in Fig.
From this assumption:

where compression,
force,
compressibility, that is
the slope of the force extension
curve.
The force required to buckle a

sample of fabric of length / is
given by:
where
constant,
bending rigidity.
Substituting for in this equation,

the amount that a fabric of length / Within the limits of this equation the
can be compressed before it product is a specific property of
buckles is then given by: the fabric which determines how
©2004 much compression it can undergo
before buckling.
Fabric friction
Mesurement of Fric Friction
Flt Friction Test Friction Inclined lne
In this method a block of mass ¦ is pulled over a flat rigid surface
which is covered with the fabric being tested. The line connected to the
block is led around a frictionless pulley and connected to an appropriate
load cell in a tensile testing machine. This can measure the force
required both to start the block moving and also to keep it moving, thus
providing the static and dynamic coefficients of friction from the relation:
The coefficient of friction which is measured is specific for the two

materials in contact so that the choice of material for the block is important.
The block used may be a solid construction of a known material such as
wood or steel or it may be covered in fabric. In the case of a fabric covering
the choice is between a standard fabric which is used for all friction tests or
a portion of the fabric which is being tested.
A factor that can affect fabric friction measurements is the
presence on the fabric of finishes such as softeners which reduce the fabric
friction. These can easily be transferred from the fabric to the block so that
it needs to be cleaned or covered with a fresh piece of fabric before every
test.
The second method used for measuring fabric friction is the
inclined plane. This is shown diagrammatically in Fig. which shows a block
of mass ¦ initially resting on an inclined plane covered with the fabric to
be tested. The apparatus is arranged so that the angle of the plane ș can
be continuously adjusted until the block just begins to slide. At this point
the frictional force is equal to the component of
the mass of the block parallel to the inclined plane:
The normal reaction is equal to the component
of the mass perpendicular to the inclined plane .
As the coefficient of friction µ = Therefore:
This procedure as described measures the coefficient of static

friction. The coefficient of dynamic friction may be measured by giving the
block an initial impetus and determining the angle at which motion just
continues.
AWA ATA SYST
Leaving apart the aesthetic appearance, the comfort
performance may be divided into two components, viz. echanical
Comfort and Thermal Comfort. While the thermal comfort is assessed
from the permeability of the fabric to the air, water and heat, the
mechanical comfort has been evaluated by the subjective method called
Handle¶, which is traditionally assessed on the basis of visual and
tactual impressions.
However, the researchers have attempted to express fabric
handle in terms of physical properties such as shear and flexural rigidity,
hysteresis of deformation, compressibility and surface smoothness. ut
this type of subjective evaluation is not very accurate.
The basic concept underlying the fabric objective measurement
technology is that necessary and sufficient instrumental measurements
should be made on the fabrics to specify and control the quality,
tailorability and ultimate performance of an apparel fabric. This led to the
development of S-F instrument in 1972, which were subsequently
upgrade
©2004 to S-F , by Dr. S.awabata in Japan.
In the early 1970s, The Hand valuation and Standardization
Committee was formed with the involvement of the Japanese Clothing
Industry. The main objectives of the committee were to :
1) Standardize the terminology and procedures used in subjective hand
evaluation.
2) Relate subjective hand expressions to fabric mechanical properties.
They developed empirical expression for Primary Hand expressions and
developed the concept of Total Hand Value (THV).
In order to translate these primary hands to THV, awabata used
2 stage translation method.
ultiple Linear
Mec nicl Proerties Primry Hnd Vlue
Regression quation
ultiple Linear
Primry Hnd Vlue Totl Hnd Vlue
Regression quation
The Definition of Primary Hand 38
0 ë

oshi Stiffness A stiff feeling from bending property. High-density fabrics made
by springy and elastic yarn usually possess this feeling strongly.
Numeri Smoothness A mixed feeling come from smooth and soft feeling. The fabric
woven from cashmere fibre gives this feeling strongly.
Fukurami Fullness and A bulky, rich and well-formed feeling. Springy property in
compression and the thickness accompanied with warm feeling
softness
are closely related with this feeling Ëÿ ¦ means 'swelling')
Shari Crispness A feeling of a crisp and rough surface of fabric. This feeling is
brought by hard and strongly twisted yarn. This gives a cool
feeling. This word means crisp, dry and sharp sound made by
rubbing the fabric surface with itself)
Hari Anti-drape Anti-drape stiffness, no matter whether the fabric is springy or
not. (This word means 'spread').
stiffness
ishimi Scrooping Scrooping feeling. A kind of silk fabric possesses this feeling
strongly.
feeling
Shinayakasa Flexibility with Soft, flexible and smooth feeling.
soft feeling
Sofutosa
©2004 Soft touch Soft www.vasantkothari.com
feeling. A mixed feeling of bulky, flexible and smooth
39
feeling.
Primary hands for men's winter suits
oshi
Numerii
Fukurami
Primary hands for men's summer suits

oshi
Fukurami
Shari
Hari
Primary hands for women's thin dress fabric

oshi
Shari
Hari
Fukurami
ishimi
Shinayakasa
The parameters Describing echanical Properties of fabric by S - F
Proerty Prmeter Nottions Unit
Linearity LT
| Tensile nergy WT
Tensile Resilience RT
Shear Stiffness G
Hysteresis at 0.5Å 2HG

Hysteresis at 5Å 2HG5
Rigidity
Hysteresis 2H
Linearity LC
nergy WC
Resilience RC
Frictional Coefficient IU

ean Deviation of IU D
Roughness SD
Thickness T
Weight W
6

Having defined the various primary hands, the next step towards
the handle standardization was the rating of the primary handle. The
following procedures were carried out to established the standard of the
primary hand.
Firstly, about a large no. of samples, both men¶s summer and
winter suiting produced commercially were collected. Then every expert in
the committee judged the handle for each primary hand as follows.
xperts divided these samples into 3 groups in order of feeling intensity,
strong, medium and weak. Then they again divided each of the resulting 3
fabrics piles into a further 3 subgroups in the same manner as the first
grading.
After this procedure, the fabric have been graded into 9 grades.
Sample
High edium Low
H H L H L H L L
Rating : Hand Value (HV)
©2004
10 9 8 7 www.vasantkothari.com
6 5 4 3 2 1 0 42
Those fabrics which have an entrends strong feeling and also a
extremely weak feeling are separated from the strongest and weakest
groups respectively, thus giving a total of 11 grades rated from 10 ± 0 in
order of the feeling intensity.
à
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The fabric handle which is concerned with fabric quality is the total
hand and this was also graded by experts. In the same manner as for the
rating of primary hand, each expert graded the fabric according to 6 grades
and rating from 5 ± 0 were give in order of quality level. The rating was
named Total Hand Value or THV.
Samples
V. Good Good iddle Poor V.Poor Not Use
Rting (THV) 5 4 3 2 1 0
Grding
©2004 xcellent Good Average Fair
www.vasantkothari.com Poor Not Use 43
Procedure for predicting Fabric Handle by the objective method :
Dr. awabata developed prediction equation by correlating
fabric mechanical properties and experimental Hand Values (HVs)
which were evaluated subjectively by experts.
The correlation between experimental HVs and the
experimental THV was studied to obtain the equation, predicting THV
from HVs. Now the completely objective method for obtaining THV is
possible as follows :
1) easurement of 16 parameters of the fabric mechanical properties
by means of instrumentation.
2) Conversion of 16 parameters to HVs of 4 primary hands for men¶s
summer suiting & 3 for winter suiting by means of conversion equation
3) Conversion of HVs to THV by means of a conversion equation.
In practice, these procedures are not carried out systematically
in separate stages. The mechanical data from S-F system are fed
into a computer and the computer calculates the HVs and the THV.
S ± F test instruments are widely used which have been
specifically developed for the measurement of these mechanical
©2004
properties. www.vasantkothari.com 44
? ?
The main instruments developed by awabata are :
ƅ E - FB 1 ± Tensile and Shear Tester
ƅ E - EB 2 ± ending Tester
ƅ E - FB 3 ± Compression
ƅ E - FB 4 ± Surface Friction & Geometrical Roughness Tester.
The unique feature of the awabata devices is their ability to

measure fabric mechanical properties at small stresses with high
sensitivity.
The advantage of this instrument is that it is designed such that
the same test pieces can be used on all four instruments, provided that
the tests are run in the appropriate order.
A skilled technician, thoroughly conversant with the system, will
take at least four hours per sample.
S-F 1
S ± F 1is used to determine both the
tensile and the shear properties of fabrics.
The initial distance between 2 chucks is 5
cm.
Shear test is done before tensile test
because tensile deformation is more than
the shear deformation.
mle ize
S±F 1
Tensile Test Using S-F 1
The principle of the instrument is to apply a constant tensile force to
fabric in one direction and to measure the amount of stretch on the
fabric.
The stretching deformation can be considered as a kind of biaxial
tensile deformation.
The sample is held by two chunks (A and ), and chunk is on a
movable drum connected to a torque detector.
A torque meter is used to measure the tensile stress and by sensing
the movement of chuck , a potentiometer is used to measure the
tensile strain.
Stretching the sample when the tensile force reaches the preset value,
it turns back and recovers to the beginning position.
There are two tensile rate adjustments as 0.2mm/sec or 0.1mm/sec.
This is done by changing the gears at the back of the instrument.
The tensile force (F) and strain (İ) are recorded on the X-Y plotter.
From the graph, LT, WT, and RT can be calculated.
The required Tensile
characteristics values are
obtained from the tensile
hysteresis curves as follows :
LT : Linearity ( Unit : non )
WT
LT =
Sample Portion etween Area under ¨ OA
Chucks A and
WT : Tensile energy per unit
area ( Unit : gf.cm/cm2 )
A
WT = area under the load
strain curve (Load Increasing)
RT : Resilience ( Unit : % )
B Higher value of RT indicate
O greater recovery from having been
stretched.
A Typical Force- xtension Area under load decreasing curve

Tensile Curve of Fabric RT =
WT
©2004 www.vasantkothari.com X 49
100 %
İm
W ere :
WT : Tensile nergy or the work done

Fm
while stretching the fabric until max.
force
İ : Tensile Strain
F : Tensile Force per unit width
İm : ax value of İ
Fm : ax value of F
W ere : LT : Linearity
W ere :
RT : Tensile Resilience (%);
WT¶ : Recovery work &
W ere :
Ë : tensile force during the recovering. 50
Shear Test Using S - F 1
A constant force is applied to the fabric by attaching a weight to the
fabric end on clutch A side. y turning the clutch off, chuck is freed and
able to move.
During the test, shear force is detected by a transducer and shear strain
is detected by a potentiometer.
The shear angle can be adjusted between 1 and 8 degrees by
presetting the potentiometer.
The quantities G, 2HG and 2HG5 are then measured from the curve
Initial Tension to Place Sample on Chucks Shear Deformation Under a Constant xtension
Sample
Shear weight
Ñè è
drum, which is connected to

torque detector as tensile
force detector.
Potentiometer
Shear Force Detector
Slide ar
| è
* These weights are metal plates, Clutch (off)

stamped with grams value for each one. The
grams are not the actual weight of the metal
piece,
©2004
but the actual weight to be www.vasantkothari.com
detected by 52
the torque detector. Principle of Shear Property Test
er stiffness à slope of shear force-shear strain curve
Force ysteresis t s er ngle of 0.5°
2HG = hysteresis width of curve at 0.5°
Force ysteresis t s er ngle of 5°
2HG5 = hysteresis width of curve at 5°
As with many other fabric properties shear can be problem if it is
too small or too large. elow approx. 30 N/m give problems in handling,
laying up and sewing. Conversely, above approx. 80 N/m then fabric can
be difficult to over feed, mould and create fullness over the sleeve head.
Shearing stiffness is the ease with which the fibers slide against
each other resulting in soft/ pliable to stiff/ rigid structures.
Lower values indicate less resistance to the shearing movement
corresponding to a softer material having better drape.
The required Shear characteristics
values are obtained from the shear
G : The slope measured betn
ø = 0.5 and 2.5º (gf/cm.deg)
2HG : Hysteresis of Fs at ø = 0.5º
(gf/cm)
2HG5 : Hysteresis of Fs at ø = 5º
(gf/cm)
A Typical Shear Test Force-Shear Angle Curve
W ere : G = Shear stiffness
W ere : 2HG = Hysteresis of shear force

at 0.5º of shear angle
W ere : 2HG5 = Hysteresis of shear force

at 5º of shear angle 55
Shear Hand Calculation
S±F 2
!
ending property is an important feature to evaluate fabrics.
Pure bending test is a component of the S-F system. It is used to
determine fabric bending rigidity. efore the invention of the S-F pure
bending test, Pierce¶s cantilever method was used to measure bending
rigidity.
The S-F pure bending method is a different method than the
cantilever test because the sample is bent to a uniform curvature.
It is also automatic and computerized, consisting of mechanical unit and
electronic unit.
The fabric sample is mounted on the
instrument. One chuck that holds one end of the
sample is movable and the other is fixed. The
moving of the sample edge by one of the
chucks enables the measurement of bending
properties. The figure shows the top view of the
mounted
©2004
sample on the instrument.
The special feature is that the whole sample is bent accurately in a arc
of constant curvature, and the curvature is changed continuously.
The detection of the bending moment by the instrument is 0.002
gf.cm ± 50 gf.cm at full scale.
Clamp interval is 1 cm.
Rate of bending is 0.5/cm.
aximum curvature is +/- 2.5/cm.
} Figure shows schematic of
S- F 2 ending tester. S±F 2
} A fixed jaw holds one edge
of a 2 ± 20 cm wide sample,
while movable jaw at a distance
of 1 cm holds the other edge of
the sample.
} The moving jaw follows a
fixed orbit tuning its head so
that fabric curvature increases
at a constant rate till the
required curvature is reached.
} A sensor attached to the
fixed jaw detects bending
moment of the sample and the
relationship between the
bending moment and the
curvature is obtained between
the©2004
set curvature limit. www.vasantkothari.com 58
The characteristic bending
Front Chuck
parameters are obtained from
ack
bending hysteresis curve as
Chuck
follows :
B : ending Rigidity per unit
fabric width, (gf. cm2 / cm)
= Slope bten 0.5 & 1.5 cm-1
curvature
Wind up of
Higher value indicates
xcess Sample
greater stiffness/ resistance to
bending motions.
2HB : oment of Hysteresis
per unit length (gf.cm/cm)
= Hysteresis at 1 cm-1
curvature.
ending, measured with S -

F 2 ending Tester, is a
measure of the force required
59
to bend the fabric approx. 150°.
To find , bending rigidity, the
average of the two slopes is
taken. One value is when sample
is bent with its face surface
outside and the other is when
sample bent with its face surface
inside. This leads to
B = ( Bÿ ö B ) / 2
Similarly to find bending hysteresis,

2H , and the average of the two
hysteresis width at curvature 1 is
taken. Thus,
2HB = 2 ( HBÿ ö HB ) / 2
S±F 3 "#$"
Compressional property of fabrics is another mechanical property of fabric that
is necessary to evaluate.
The S-F -3 is used for measuring the compressional property of fabrics.
This tester is used to give a cyclic compressive deformation to a fabric within the
predetermine maximum load of compression.
The first procedure in the measurement is to set the upper limit force.
Then put sample on the bottom plate.
When the driving motor is switched on, a plunger (area 2 sq. cm.) starts to
descend and compress the sample at a constant rate.
When the compression reaches the upper limit force is preset, the motor
automatically turns to recovery process.
The maximum compressional force is 2500 gf.
©2004 www.vasantkothari.com S ± F 362
! There are two types of maximum strokes. A standard stroke is 0 mm to 5
mm and a large stroke is 0 mm to 50 mm.
! The S-F -3 consists of two units, a mechanic unit and an electronic unit.
! The electronic unit consists of amplifier and integrator.
! The mechanical unit and the working mechanism of the S-F -3 are
illustrated in Figure.
! The fabric sample to be measured is placed on the sample plate.
! The plunger for compression moves down at the rate of 1mm/50sec
(standard) to compress the sample.
! A potentiometer detects the displacement of the plunger.
! While the plunger compresses the
fabric sample, the output voltage of the
compressional force reaches the preset
voltage and the synchronous motor
reverses causing plunger to ascend.
! During the testing, pressure
versus thickness is measured
and ©2004 www.vasantkothari.com
recorded on the X-Y recorder. 63
The required Tensile characteristics values are obtained from the tensile
LC : Linearity ( Unit : non)

WC : Compressional nergy (Unit : gf.cm/cm2)
RC : Compressional Resilience ( Unit : % )
The extent of recovery, or the regain in thickness, when the force
is removed. Higher RC values indicates a high percent recovery from
being compressed.
WC = re () ö ()
re () ö ()

LC =
re ǻ ABC
re ()
RC = x 100
re ()
P
To
WC = P dT = A (lod incresing curve)
Tm
To
T P dT A (lod incresing curve)
m
LC = =
0.5 (Tm - To ) Pm Are under ¨ ABC
To
T P dT A ( lod incresing curve )
x 100 =
m
RC = x 100

To
P dT A ( lod decresing curve)
Tm
W ere :
T : Thickness of Specimen (cm)
To : Thickness of Specimen at max pressure Pm = 0.5 gf/cm²
Tm : Thickness of Specimen at max pressure Pm = 50 gf/cm²
S±F 4 %&'
This instrument is designed to measure surface properties.
The contacter which picks up the fabric surface property is of a special
design, which simulates the human finger.
The measured values are closely related to the hand touch-feeling of a
fabric.
Contactor for surface roughness is like a stapler¶s pin.
The detection of surface is very sensitive and the max. detection of the
fabric roughness is 0.5 micro meters.
This tester is used for determining the
coefficient of friction (IU), its variation
(D) and the surface roughness (SD)
of the fabric.
A tension load of 20 gf/cm is applied

to©2004
the sample. www.vasantkothari.com 68
©2004 Princile
www.vasantkothari.com of urfce Testing
69
Characteristics values obtained from S ± F 4 are as follows :
Frictional easurement :
MIU : mean value of the coefficient of friction (Unit : none)
MMD : mean deviation of coefficient of friction (Unit : none)
Roughness easurement :
MD : mean deviation of surface roughness ( mean deviation of
the thickness ) (Unit : micron)
IU - coefficient of friction, 0 to 1 value
Higher IU value corresponds to greater friction or resistance and

drag.
SD - geometric roughness, micron
Higher SD corresponds to geometrically rougher surface.
Princile of Friction Mesurement
As shown in Figure the sample is fixed at a winding drum, chunk A, and a

constant force is applied on the opposite end, chuck , which gives a tension to
the sample by pulling it down. During the testing, a winding drum moves the
sample by turning at a constant speed (1mm/sec). To measure the friction, a
contactor,
©2004 is placed on the fabric surface. y the rotation of the drum, the fabric
moves, and the contactor senses the fabric surface.
X Where :
1
MIU, µ =
X 0
µ. dl µ : Frictional force/ compressional force
l : displacement of the contactor on the

1 X surface of the specimen.
MMD =
X 0
| µ - µ |. dl X : 2 cm is taken in this standard
measurement.
To measure the geometrical
roughness, a vertical contactor,
which is at the top of the
instrument, touches to the fabric
with a constant force. While the
fabric moves, the
displacement of the contractor
is detected by a transducer.
After the drum turns 3cm, it
©2004 www.vasantkothari.com turns back to the starting74
Princile of urfce Roug ness Mesurement position with the same speed.
1 X

Frictional coefficient µ is defined as
MD = 0
| T ± T |. dl the ratio of the frictional force F and
X
the nominal pressure N by which
W ere : the contactor is pressed on the
T : Thickness of the specimen at fabric surface.
position X, measured by contactor
T©2004
: ean value of T www.vasantkothari.com 76
The results can also
be displayed in the
form of a chart as
shown
diagrammatically
in Fig. Here the results
have been normalized
by the standard
deviation of each of
the corresponding
characteristic values
or hand values using
the following
relationship:
where:
X normalised mean,
p measured parameter,
p mean value of property for typical fabric,
ð = standard deviation of property for typical fabric.
y normalising the results they can all be plotted on the same scale. If
the values on the chart are joined together a 'snake' chart is produced from
which it can be readily seen which fabrics differ from the average.
Guidelines can then be drawn on the chart as in Fig. showing the good
zone into which the parameters
©2004 of high-quality fabrics fall.
d d

d

1) Production Control in Apparel manufacture
o Objective evaluation of fabric tailorability, finished garment app. & quality
o Objective specification for tailoring companies for fabric selection,
production planning, process control and quality assurance using fabric
mechanical and dimensional properties.
o easurement and control of the comfort, performance and stability of
fabrics and clothing during use, including laundering & dry cleaning.
2) Production Control & Product development in Textile anufacture
o It provide a common language for communication between fiber
producers, yarn manufactures, fabric manufactures and processors and
also between clothing manufactures and traders.
o It permits the rational application of engineering principles to product
specification, quality control and assurance, process control, product
development and process improvement
©2004 in textile manufacture.
FAT
FA RIC ASSURANC Y SIPL T STING

C

!" #

0 # #

!" #
# #

©2004

× FAST can predict how a fabric will perform when made up into a
garment ² an information of importance for fabric manufactures,
suppliers, finishers and garment makers.
× FAST consist of three instruments and a test methods:
c |

c |

c |

c |
! |
× Test results from FAST ² 1, - 2 and ² 3 can be recorded instantly
and automatically, FAST ² 4 results are recorded manually.
× The results are plotted on a control chart to provide a Fabric
Fingerprint, which indicates weather the tested fabric will be
suitable for the intended end use.
Parameters easured and Calculated on the FAST system

$
%
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1

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!

2
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*

3 % $&& '" ( +
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©2004
&
? FAST - 1
FAST-1 is a compression meter which measures the thickness of the fabric
under two fixed loads.
First the fabric is measured under a load of 2g/cm2.
and then again under a load of 100g/cm2.
The fabric thickness is measured on a 10cm2 area at two different
pressures, firstly at 2gf/cm2 (19.6mN/cm2) and then at 100gf/cm2
(981mN/cm2) using the apparatus shown.
This gives a measure of the thickness of the surface layer which is
defined as the difference between these two values.
The fabric is considered to consist of an incompressible core and a
compressible surface.
The fabric thickness measurements are repeated after steaming on an
open Hoffman press for 30s in order to determine the stability of the
surface layer.
Fabric Surface Thickness (T)

= Difference betn thickness measured at
2 & 100 g/cm2
Released Surface Thickness (TR)

= Difference betn
relaxed ST & ST
The difference between these two
thicknesses is a measure of the
amount of compressible fibre, or "pile"
on the surface of the fabric and is
know as the urfce T ickness of the
fabric.
Further measurements are taken after
the fabric has been steamed to obtain
a value known as Relesed urfce
T ickness
± T ickness and urfce T ickness do not themselves have any great

impact upon the tailoring performance of a fabric but are useful indicators
of any change or variation in fabric handle.
± If however the value of urfce T ickness is assessed against the
value of Relesed urfce T ickness, then the results assume much
greater significance
± A big difference between, thickness measured at 2 & 100 g/cm2, these
two values indicates that the finish on the fabric is unstable and is likely to
©2004 off during the final pressing
come www.vasantkothari.com
operation. 85

? FAST - 2
FAST-2 is a bending eter which is used to measure the stiffness or

conversely, the flexibility of a fabric.
The instrument works on the cantilever principle, which involves

pushing a fabric over a vertical edge until it has bent to a specified angle
(41.5o).
Stiff fabric will need pushing further to bend to this angle, whereas a
flexible, or limp one will fall quickly.
Ù The bending rigidity, which is related to the perceived stiffness, is
calculated from the bending length and mass/unit area.
Ù Fabrics with low bending rigidity may exhibit seam pucker and are
prone to problems in cutting out.
Ù They are difficult to handle on an automated production line.
Ù A fabric with a higher bending rigidity may be more manageable during
sewing, resulting in a flat seam but may cause problems during moulding,
as it is stiffer .
where C is bending length and is mass per unit area.
? FAST - 3
FAST-3 is an extension eter which measures the amount (in per cent)
that a fabric will stretch under three fixed low loadings (5, 20 & 100g/cm).
Fabrics are measured at all three loads in the warp and weft directions
and (at the lowest load only) in a bias direction of 45o.
ias extension is converted to Shear Rigidity which is directly related to
fabric looseness.
oth high and low values of Extensiility can have serious consequences
if the Garment aker is not aware of them.
Low Extensiility cn led to:
à Difficulties in producing Overfed
Seams
à Problems in oulding
à Seam Pucker
Hig Extensiility cn led to:
à The fabric being stretched during
laying-up, causing the cut panels to
shrink when they are removed from
the cutting table.
à Problems in matching patterned
fabrics, such as checks
? ?
z Some values of produced by FAST are not measured directly but are
calculated using a combination of values from different FAST instruments
and in some cases using athematical Constants.
z These properties are known as Derived properties because they are
not directly measured by any one instrument.
z ending Rigidity, described earlier, is a derived property because in
addition to the ending Length, fabric weight is brought into the
calculation.
z The measurements obtained from FAST-3 are important in calculating
two further derived values, Formability and Shear Rigidity.
z Extensiility is used in conjunction with the value for Bending
Rigidity to calculate the Formility of the fabric.
z er Rigidity is a measure of the ease with which a fabric can be
distorted in a "Trellissing" action and is calculated from the Bis
Extensiility measured on FAST-3.

? ?
Formility is calculated using values obtained from both FAST-2 and
FAST-3.
It can be described in scientific terms as Ú mesure of t e ility of
fric to sor comression in its own lne wit out ucklingÚ.
In practical terms, this type of compression is imposed upon the fabric
by a combination of thread size, needle size, thread tension and stitch
rate; a fabric which buckles easily under these types of force will form
Puckered Seams.
Formility is a direct indicator of the likelihood of Seam Pucker
occurring either during or after sewing.
Low Formability = Tendency to
???
er Rigidity is a measure of
the ease with which a fabric can
be distorted in a "Trellissing"
action and is calculated from the
Bis Extensiility measured on
FAST-3.
Low er Rigidity means that the fabric will be easily distorted in
laying-up, marking and cutting.
High er Rigidity means that the fabric will be difficult to form into
smooth three-dimensional shapes, causing problems in moulding and
sleeve insertion. Drape may also be affected.
? ?
? ?
FAST - 4
FAST-4 is not an instrument but a test method, used to calculate the

Dimensionl tility of the fabric.
In the test (which requires a laboratory oven), the fabric is subjected
to a cycle of drying, wetting and then drying again.
After each stage the fabric¶s dimensions in both warp and weft are
measured.
The results give valuable information to the garment maker as to how
the dimensions of a fabric will change when exposed to moisture.
The test method enables the Dimensionl tility properties of the
fabric to be split into to clearly identifiable components whose cause
and effect are quite different.
These are: Relxtion rinkge and Hygrl Exnsion.
?
Hygrl Exnsion is the reversible
change in the dimension of the fabric that
occurs when the moisture content of the
fibres is altered. Using FAST, Hygrl
Exnsion is defined as the percentage
change in dimensions of the relaxed
fabric from wet to dry.
This effect displays its most serious consequence as loss of appearance.
Panels constrained by seams try to grow but have nowhere to grow into, with
resultant loss of shape and in extreme cases, bubbling and delamination of
fused panels.
This type of problem typically occurs when garments are made in areas of
low humidity, such as the U, and exported to or worn in very humid climates
such as those in much of Asia. Fabrics with high levels of Hygrl Exnsion
also cause problems in pleating.
? ?
; Relxtion rinkge is the irreversible change in fabric dimensions
(shrinkage or expansion) that occurs when a fabric is wet out or exposed
to steam.
; Relxtion rinkge is caused by the release of cohesively set
strains which are imposed on fabrics during the late stages of finishing.
; In the FAST system, Relxtion rinkge is defined as the
percentage change in dry dimensions after release in water at room
temperature.
Where :
L1 = Length of dry fabric
L2 = Length of wet fabric
L3 = Length of dry fabric
â ë

â

â

â

â
6

â u

6

â

©2004

FAST Chart
The whole of the results

are plotted on a chart, shown
in Fig., which is similar to the
chart produced by the SF
system.
The shaded areas show
regions where the fabric
properties are likely to cause
problems in garment
manufacture.
These limits have been
determined from experience
and apply only to the
worsted suitings for which
the system was originally
designed.
a
d
FAST can tell how a fabric will perform.
Fabric Fingerprints can be used for..
Ƅ fabric specifications
Ƅ developing new fabrics
Ƅ comparing fabric finishing routs
Ƅ assessing stability of finished fabric
Ƅ predicting tailoring performance &
Ƅ predicting final garment appearance.
Abnormal Fabric Fingerprints point to potential problem
areas. Fast can pin-point these areas and enable one to adjust the
procedures before the problems become serious.

Handle Properties of Fabric

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Handle Properties of Fabric

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| | | |

 Flexibility : ease of bending

The most commonly instrument used for measurement of

FLEXURAL RIGIDITY (G) = 3.39 x w1 c3 mg/cm = w2 c3 x 103 mg/cm

Where : g1 = cloth thickness in thousands of an inch

The bending length is

In practice, it is very difficult to measure

The higher the drape coefficient the

Figure shows a drape

Leveling Screw nife dge

The Test should including the following :

In the first and third stages of compression elastic deformation is

Optical method for measuring thickness

A rectangular element of material A CD is subjected to pairs of

The force required to buckle a

Substituting for in this equation,

Flt Friction Test Friction Inclined lne

The coefficient of friction which is measured is specific for the two

This procedure as described measures the coefficient of static

Primary hands for men's summer suits

Primary hands for women's thin dress fabric

  Hysteresis at 0.5Å 2HG

High edium Low

V. Good Good iddle Poor V.Poor Not Use

The unique feature of the awabata devices is their ability to

A Typical Force- xtension Area under load decreasing curve

WT : Tensile nergy or the work done

drum, which is connected to

* These weights are metal plates, Clutch (off)

W ere : 2HG = Hysteresis of shear force

W ere : 2HG5 = Hysteresis of shear force

ending, measured with S -

Similarly to find bending hysteresis,

LC : Linearity ( Unit : non)

re () ö ()

 A tension load of 20 gf/cm is applied

IU - coefficient of friction, 0 to 1 value

Higher IU value corresponds to greater friction or resistance and

As shown in Figure the sample is fixed at a winding drum, chunk A, and a

l : displacement of the contactor on the

and then again under a load of 100g/cm2.

Fabric Surface Thickness (T)

Released Surface Thickness (TR)

± T ickness and urfce T ickness do not themselves have any great

FAST-2 is a bending eter which is used to measure the stiffness or

The instrument works on the cantilever principle, which involves

where C is bending length and is mass per unit area.

Low Formability = Tendency to

 FAST-4 is not an instrument but a test method, used to calculate the

The whole of the results

Fabric Fingerprints can be used for..

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| | | |

Flexibility : ease of bending

Hysteresis at 0.5Å 2HG

A tension load of 20 gf/cm is applied

Fabric Surface Thickness (T)

Released Surface Thickness (TR)

± T ickness and urfce T ickness do not themselves have any great

FAST-4 is not an instrument but a test method, used to calculate the