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Aramids are the best known high performance fibres used for

protective clothing applications because of their inherent property to


protect the wearer from heat and flame.
High performance fibres are dyed by several methods among which
dope dyeing and piece dyeing techniques are commonly used.
Out of two, piece dyeing/conventional fibre dyeing technique is
mostly used because it is cost effective but on the other hand the
colour is not durable at elevated temperatures.
Although dope dyeing of fibre can resolve such problem.
Hence majority of industries are dyeing the high performance fibres
by piece/conventional fibre dyeing method rather than dope dyeing.
It is very difficult to discriminate dope dyed and piece/conventional
fibre dyed samples in naked eye because the both samples can be
made with equal shades.
Hence systematic evaluation of fibre sample is necessary to
discriminate the fibre/fabric sample that is dyed by different
methods.
The present work deals with the methods to discriminate dope dyed
and piece/conventional dyed high performance fibre or fabric.
DSC technique is used to study the energy changes associated with
various dope dyed and piece/conventional dyed fibres and fabrics
when exposed to linear heating program.
Micro spectrophotometer (MSP) is used to measure the changes in the
strength/intensity of colour associated with various dope dyed and
piece/conventional dyed fibres and fabrics.
Optical microscopy is used to assess physical presence of pigments in
the cross sectional area of dope dyed and piece/conventional dyed
fibres and fabrics.
The study reveals that the dope dyed and piece/conventional dyed
fibres and fabrics can be discriminated either qualitatively or
quantitatively using all the three DSC, MSP and optical microscopic
technique.
DYE
Dyes are molecules which absorb and reflect light at
specific wavelengths to give human eyes the sense of
colour.
Natural dyes - plants, animals, or minerals.
Synthetic dyes - are made in a laboratory. Chemicals
are synthesized for making synthetic dyes.
Colorants are either dyes or pigment and are
characterized by their ability to absorb and emit light in
the visible range (400-700nm).
Both dyes and pigments appear to be coloured because
they absorb some wavelengths of light more than
others.
DYEING
Dyeing is a method which imparts beauty to the textile by
applying various colours and their shades on to a fibre, yarn and
fabric.
Dyeing can be done at any stage of the manufacturing of textile
– fibre, yarn, fabric or a finished textile product including
garment and apparels.
The textile dyeing industry
HIGH PERFORMANCE FIBRES
Faster, stronger, lighter, safer....these demands are constantly
being pushed upon today’s researchers and manufacturers,
including protective clothing – routine or specialized.
High performance fibres aid enormously in allowing products to
meet these challenges
High performance fibres (HPF) are high technological
better performing traditional textile fibres.
High performance fibres (HPF) char above 400 °C and can
be exposed to temperatures up to 700 °C.
HPF are generally characterized by high tensile strength and
modulus as well as resistance to heat, flame, and chemical
agents.
Applications - the military, aerospace, protective apparel,
biomedical, civil engineering, construction, geotextiles, and
electronic areas, flexible technical textiles, high strength
ropes, and as reinforcements in rigid composites, marine
engineering, , and bullet proof vests. These materials, in
turn, are used in countless industries, such as automotive
etc.
Dope dyed fabrics are popular because of its high thermal
and UV resistance properties, high colour fastness to heat,
light, and wash, etc.
If dope dyed and piece dyed fabrics both are similar in
colour, denier, and other properties it is difficult to
discriminate.
Scientists are constantly seeking examination methods
that are non-destructive, fast in obtaining analysis results
and that have a high discrimination power.
By observing and measuring the linear dichroism of
pigmented fibres and conventional dyed fibres we can
easily discriminate both.
The aim of this work is to examine the occurrence of
dichroism in pigmented fibres and to compare the
dichroic effects found in dyed and pigmented man-made
fibres.
Dope dyeing in which the colorant is added to the polymer
melts, before it is extruded through a spinneret in to
individual fibers. As a result, the colorant is permanently
locked into the fiber and the fiber is colored throughout.
No fading problems.
It has better wash fastness
It has better light fastness.
It has high UV resistance
It has better rubbing fastness
Every time the colour is remade its always the same
Bigger lot can be produced without any shade variation.
The colours are bright, clear, clean and fast.
Application in Outdoor Fabrics, automotive fabrics,
carpeting, etc.
Environment friendly manufacturing process
High yields with low scrap
Wide range of colors can be produced
Customized products can be easily designed for value
added fibers.

METHODS OF DOPE DYEING


There are four main methods of incorporating colorants
into manufactured fibres namely,
Batch Process
Injection Process
Chip Blending
Chip Dyeing
PIECE DYEING

Piece dyeing in this method, small batches of constructed


natural coloured fabric are dyed according to the demands
for a given colour.

METHODS OF PIECE DYEING

There are four main methods of incorporating colorants


into manufactured fibres namely,
Beck dyeing
Jig dyeing
Pad dyeing
Jet dyeing
The aim of this project is to develop methods for discriminate
dope/conventional dyed fibre or fabrics by qualitative and quantitative
measurement techniques.

To examine the presence or absence and distribution of


pigments in the fibre cross sectional area.

To quantify the fibre/fabrics dyed by different methods


using thermal techniques in order to assess the durability of
colour with respect to thermal aging.

To obtain the absorbance spectra.


The literature survey for any project forms the basis for the future
understanding of the project.
PART 1:

K. De Wael, T. Vanden Driessche have studied one hundred and


twenty dyed polyester samples with plane polarized light on their
dichroic behaviour by optical light microscopy (OLM) and micro
spectrophotometer in the visible range (MSP Vis). They were found
that most of these disperse dyed polyester fibres possess a strong
dichroism, which fall into two broad categories. Either a decrease of
intensity (hypochromic effect) or a change of hue (hypsochromic or
bathochromic shift of absorption bands) is noted. These dichroic effects
are related to the orientation of the dye structure with respect to the
polymer chains.
Part two is mainly deals with acid dyes which is the
most common dye class applied to these three fibre classes
such as polyamide, wool and silk. A few reactive dyes for
polyamide have been included. And K. De Wael , T. Vanden
Driessche have examined a number of dyed polyamide, wool
and silk samples with plane polarized light on their dichroic
behaviour by optical light microscopy (OLM) and micro
spectrophotometer with plane polarized light (MSP-PPL).
They were observed that most of these acid dyed peptidic
fibres possess dichroism, but these are weaker than the effects
previously described for polyester fibres. The small effects
may be not observed, especially for wool, but these can be
measured using MSP-PPL. In the three peptidic fibre classes,
for the first time, a so called “inverse dichroism” is observed
which appears in the absorption spectra as a hyperchromic
effect.
In part three K. De Wael, L. Lepot have examined a
number of dyed cellulosic fibres were with plane polarized
light on their dichroic behaviour by microscopy and micro
spectrophotometer (MSP-PPL). Significant dichroic effects
(mostly hypochromic effects and hypsochromic bands shifts)
were reported. The effect is related to the chemical structure:
some dye structures always possess dichroism (azo, stilbene,
thiazole and oxazine), some dyes demonstrate sometimes
dichroic effects (anthraquinoid, indigoid) while other
structures never demonstrate dichroic effects (sulphur,
diphenylmethanes, triarylmethanes, phthalocyanines). In
some cases a different dichroic behaviour was found for the
same dyes applied on cotton and on viscose.
K. De. Wael has examined a number of dyed acrylic
and acetate fibre samples were examined with plane
polarized light on their dichroic behaviour by optical light
microscopy (OLM) and micro spectrophotometer with plane
polarized light (MSP-PPL). He has observed that most of
these low birefringent fibres possess weak dichroic effects
that are very hard to observe with microscopy. However,
using MSP-PPL, the linear dichroism could be measured. A
comparison between the dichroic effects found for the same
disperse dyes on triacetate (TrAc), diacetate (Ac), polyester
(PES) and polyamide (PA) shows that the linear dichroism
follows the order: PA>PES >>TrAc, Ac.
K. De Wael , L. Lepot have examined a number of
pigmented fibre samples with plane polarized light on their
dichroic behaviour by optical light microscopy (OLM) and
micro spectrophotometer with plane polarized light (MSP-
PPL).They were found that about half of the samples show
a strong dichroic effect and another 20% have a weak
dichroism. Both regular (80%) and inversed dichroic effects
(20%) occur. The dichroic characteristics of pigmented
fibres can be compared to these of sheet polarizers. It is
suggested that the dichroic behaviour of pigmented fibres
depends strongly on the crystal structure (shape of the
pigment grains) and the draw ratio (orientation of the
polymer chains).
 In part six K. De Wael , L. Lepot, K. Lunstroot summarized the
results of previous work on the microscopic observation of linear
dichroism found in dyed fibres (polyesters, polyamides, wool, silk,
cotton, viscose, acrylics and acetates) and in pigmented fibres as
well as the measurements on these fibre classes using micro
spectrophotometer with plane polarized light (MSP-PPL). The
validation of this method is discussed and a practical tool is
proposed for comparing fibre traces with control fibres. The
limitations and strengths of this method are also revised.

 Vaman.G.Kulkarni has studied among the three major melt spun or


dope dyed fibers - PA, PET and PP, using a spectrometer. It clearly
shows that superior performance of solution dyed beige PA BCF
when exposed to bleach and weathering.

 Almar J et.al, have studied micro spectrophotometry of different


fibre, and concluded that The spectra of coloured fibres should be
compared to the reference spectra of non-dyed fibre to determine if
any absorbance present could be due to the dye.
• The microscope is an optical instrument that uses lenses
and mirrors to produce magnified images of microscopic
objects or microscopic areas of larger objects.

PRINCIPLE
• A microscope’s principle is nothing else than a simple lens
system for magnifying small objects.
• The first lens, called the objective, has a short focal length
(a few mm), and creates an image of the object in the
intermediate image plane.
• This image in turn can be looked at with another lens, the
eye-piece, which can provide further magnification.
The microscope spectrophotometer or micro spectrophotometer work
like this:

The colour measuring instrument consist of two main parts mainly

1. Optical sensor.
2. Signal processor.

 An optical sensor may be a spectrophotometer, it measures the light


reflected from the sample separately at each wavelength.

 Records the reflectance in visible spectral region from 380-720nm, at


an interval of 5, 10 or 20 nm.

 The SP is characterized by its light source, monochromator,


photodetector and specimen illuminating – viewing geometry and
condition.
Schematic diagram of Spectrophotometer

 The computer stores this information and the result is an optical


spectrum. This spectrum is plotted as an XY chart that shows the
optical energy at each wavelength.
 A MSP can be configured to measure transmission, absorbance,
reflectance and emission spectra.
 The technique was developed by E.S. Watson and M.J. O'Neill in
1962

 DSC is a thermo analytical technique

 The difference in the amount of heat required to increase


the temperature of a sample and reference is measured as a function
of temperature.

 Both the sample and reference are maintained at nearly the same
temperature throughout the experiment.

 Generally, the temperature program for a DSC analysis is designed


such that the sample holder temperature increases linearly as a
function of time.
SL.NO FIBRES COLOURS DENEIR

1 D/D NOMEX GREEN 1.3


2 P/D NOMEX GREEN 1.3
3 D/D CONEX GREEN 1.3
4 D/D POLYESTER BROWN 1.4
5 P/D POLYESTER BROWN 1.4
6 D/D VISCOSE BLACK 1.5
7 P/D VISCOSE BLACK 1.5
8 D/D MODACRYLIC BLACK 1.2
9 P/D MODACRYLIC BLACK 1.2
SL.NO FABRICS COLOR FIBRE BLEND

1 D/D NOMEX GREEN 100% D/D NOMEX

2 P/D NOMEX RED 100% P/D NOMEX

3 P/D NOMEX BLUE 100% P/D NOMEX

4 P/D NOMEX YELLOW 100% P/D NOMEX


DOPE DYED AND CONVENTIONAL DYED
FIBRE SAMPLE

Dope dyed PET fibre Dope dyed Modacrylic fibre Dope dyed Conex fibre

Fibre dyed PET fibre Fibre dyed Modacrylic fibre


Piece dyed Nomex fabric (Blue) Piece dyed Nomex fabric (Yellow)

Piece dyed Nomex fabric (Red) Dope dyed Nomex fabric (Green)
 Optical instrument
Optical Microscope
Micro spectrophotometer
Spectrophotometer
Colorimeter

 Thermal analysis

Differential scanning calorimetry or DSC


Thermogravimetric analysis or TGA
Instrument : Olympus compound microscope.

Sample preparation :

Magnification : 100X
Instrument : 20/30 PV Micro spectrophotometer for visible light
(350nm-850nm).

Samples : Dope dyed and piece dyed fibre samples.

Experimental Condition: Samples were illuminated with


transmitted light from a Halogen lamp through a 40X glycerin-
immersion objective.

Insert polarizer :

Absorbance Spectra : Distinct features were observed in the range


350-700nm.
20/30PV Micro spectrophotometer
Experimental conditions
Instrument : DSC1 STARe system METTLER TOLEDO.
Sample preparation
Balance : An automatic Mettler balance.
Weight of fibres : 2.5mg
Pan : Standard aluminium sample pans.
Temperature : 25°C to 350°C
Heating rate : 5°C /minute
Purge gas : Nitrogen gas flowing at a rate of 60ml/min.
Cooling temperature : 25°C
DSC1 STARe system METTLER TOLEDO
Dope dyed and conventional dyed samples were evaluated
for the strength of colour (intensity), Linear dichroism and
change of hue.

Linear Dichroism (LD):


Linear dichroism(LD)(λ) = Apara(λ)−Aperp(λ)

Dichroic Ratio (R):


Dichroic ratio (R)(λ) = Apara(λ)/Aperp(λ)

Change in hue (ΔMAX):


Δλmax = λmax(para)−λmax(perp)
 Optical microscopic technique will be used to quantify the
sample quantitatively where as other methods will be used as a
qualitative means of quantifying fibre sample.

 Dope dyed and conventional dyed fibre samples have been


examined using optical microscope at 100X magnification for its
cross section in order to high light the presence of uniformly
distributed pigment spots in the cross section of dope dyed fibre
sample and ring formation / effect on the morphology of piece /
surface dyed fibre samples.
Pigment distribution in dope dyed fibre 100X

Ring effect in conventional dyed fibre at 100X


Unpolarized light Parallel to the polarizer Perpendicular to the polarizer

On the left - is an image of conventional fibre dyed Viscose under unpolarized light;
the middle shows the same fiber oriented parallel to the polarizer; the right image
shows the same fiber oriented perpendicular to the polarizer.
Absorbance spectra of dope dyed Polyester
Absorbance spectra of conventional fibre dyed Polyester
The above figure shows the absorbance spectra of brown
coloured dope dyed and conventional dyed polyester fibre in
visible spectrum.

The fibre sample when illuminated with a polarized UV light


in a direction parallel to the fibre axis and perpendicular to the
fibre axis, a dichroic effect and chromatic shifts were observed
and also the intensity to the direction of fibre axis of polarized
uv light changing significantly.
SL. FIBRES COLOUR DENIER LD R ∆ΛMAX MICROSCOPY
NO

1
D/D PET BROWN 1.4 -0.06 0.86 -51.68 STRONG
2

P/D PET BROWN 1.4 -0.33 0.48 0 NO

 Shown the presence of Indigo and Blue. hence blue dominating


indigo. Hence brown is greater than bluish brown.

 No shifting of
The spectrum obtained for dope dyed PET fibres from micro
spectrophotometry shown the presence of different colours such as
Indigo and Blue when it is illuminated at different directions. blue
colour is having higher wavelength band hence blue dominating
indigo. Hence brown is greater than bluish brown.

Whereas ∆λmax is zero for dope dyed PET fibres, hence there no
shifting of band of highest intensity to the lower wavelength or
higher wavelength.
Absorbance spectra of dope dyed Viscose
Absorbance spectra of conventional fibre dyed Viscose
SL. FIBRES COLOUR DENIER LD R ∆ΛMAX MICROSCOPY
NO

1 D/D
VISCOSE BLACK 1.5 -0.01 0.96 -39.66 STRONG
2
P/D
VISCOSE BLACK 1.5 -0.08 0.75 -13.24 STRONG

 Indigo to Blue and Green. Hence Green dominating indigo to


blue. Hence black is greater than greenish black.
 Indigo, green and Orange. Hence Orange colour dominating
indigo and green. Hence black is greater than orange black
 The spectrum obtained for dope dyed Viscose fibres from MSP
shown the presence of different colours such as Indigo to Blue
and Green when it is illuminated at different directions of
transmitted light. Green colour is having higher wavelength
band hence green dominating indigo to blue. Hence black is
greater than greenish black.

 The spectrum obtained for piece dyed Viscose fibers from MSP
shown the presence of different colours such as Indigo, green
and Orange when it is illuminated at different directions of
transmitted light. Orange colour is having higher wavelength
band hence orange dominating indigo and green. Hence black is
greater than orange black
Absorbance spectra of dope dyed Modacrylic
Absorbance spectra of conventional dyed Modacrylic
SL. FIBRES COLOUR DENIER LD R ∆ΛMAX MICROSCOPY
NO

1 D/D
MODACRYLIC BLACK 1.2 0.13 1.08 32.21 WEAK
2 P/D
MODACRYLIC BLACK 1.2 -0.6 0.47 -79.9 STRONG

 violet to indigo and violet to green. Violet to green colour


dominating violet to indigo. Hence black is greater than violet to
greenish black.
 violet to blue, orange and red. Hence red colour dominating violet
to blue and orange. Hence black is greater than reddish black.
 The spectrum obtained for dope dyed Modacrylic fibres from MSP
shown the presence of different colours such as violet to indigo and
violet to green when it is illuminated at different directions of
transmitted light. Violet to green is having higher wavelength band
hence violet to green dominating violet to indigo. Hence black is
greater than violet to greenish black.

The spectrum obtained for piece dyed Modacrylic fibres from MSP
shown the presence of different colors such as violet to blue, orange
and red when it is illuminated at different directions of transmitted
light. Red is having higher wavelength band hence red dominating
violet to blue and orange. Hence black is greater than reddish black.
Absorbance spectra of dope dyed Nomex Fibre
Absorbance spectra of the Nomex fabric
SL. FIBRES COLOUR DENIER LD R ∆ΛMAX MICROSCOPY
NO
1 D/D FIBRE
N307 GREEN 1.3D 0.02 1.05 -1.53 STRONG
2 P/D FIBRE
N307 GREEN 1.3D -0.9 0.42 -90.14 STRONG

Yellow, orange and Red, Red colour dominating yellow and


orange. Hence green is greater than reddish green.

violet to blue, blue and red, Red color dominating blue. Hence
green is greater than reddish green.
The spectrum obtained for dope dyed Nomex fibre from
shown the presence of different colours such as Yellow, orange
and Red, when it is illuminated at different directions of
transmitted light. Red colour is having higher wavelength band
hence Red dominating yellow and orange. Hence green is greater
than reddish green.

The spectrum obtained for piece dyed Nomex fibre from MSP
shown the presence of different colors such as violet to blue,
blue and red, when it is illuminated at different directions of
transmitted light. Red color is having higher wavelength band
hence Red dominating blue. Hence green is greater than reddish
green.
Absorbance spectra of dope dyed Conex
SL. FIBRES COLOUR DENIER LD R ∆ΛMAX MICROSCOPY
NO

1 D/D CONEX GREEN D -0.025 0.934 -15 STRONG


DIFFERENTIAL SCANNING CALORIMETRY (DSC)

DOPE DYED CONEX

Room temperature 350 ˚C

 There is no significant variation in colour of dope dyed conex


fibres when exposed to temperature between 25 to 350˚C.
B
5
Dope Dyed Conex
0

-5

Heat Flow (mW)


-10

-15

-20

-25

-30

-35

-40
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350

Temperature (C)

•The DSC thermo graph of dope dyed conex shows no transition


which clearly depicts that there is either no absorption of heat or
release of heat by the sample.
Room temperature 350 ˚C

• There is no significant variation in colour of dope dyed Nomex fibres


when exposed to temperature between 25 to 350˚C.
DOPE DYED MODACRYLIC

Room temperature 350˚C

 There is no significant variation in colour of dope dyed


Modacrylic fibres when exposed to temperature between 25
to 350˚C.
Room temperature 350˚C

CONVENTIONAL DYED MODACRYLIC


Room temperature 350 ˚C

Piece dyed Nomex fabric (Red) and dope dyed Nomex fabric
(Green)
Room temperature 350 ˚C

Piece dyed Nomex fabric (Blue) and dope dyed Nomex fabric
(Green)
Room temperature 350 ˚C

Piece dyed Nomex fabric (Yellow) and dope dyed Nomex fabric
(Green)
Piece dyed fabrics of 100% Nomex fibre of various colours
such as blue, red, and yellow along with green coloured dope
dyed Nomex fabric were exposed to heat in DSC in order to
study the durability of colour with respect to temperature.

The above figures clearly show that there is a significant


variation in colour of piece dyed fabric samples when exposed
at room temperature 25 ˚C to 350 ˚C.

This change in colour of piece dyed fabric sample is due to


detachment of pigment which adhered to the surface of piece
dyed fabric.

This is confirmed by characterizing the dye samples of


different colours such as blue, red, and yellow used for dyeing
the piece dyed Nomex fabric samples.
DSC graph of Dope dyed Nomex
DSC graph of Piece dyed Nomex
The DSC thermo graph of dope dyed Nomex
shows no transition which depicts that there is
either no release or absorption of heat by the
sample.

The DSC thermo graph of piece dyed Nomex


fabrics shows colour change at temperature 230°C.
The DSC thermo graph of dyes shows endothermic reaction
which depicts that there is absorption of heat by the sample.

The blue colour dye starts to absorb heat at 226°C and 232°C
onwards it will start to melt.
The yellow colour dye absorbs heat at 173°C and 221°C onwards it
will be melting.

The red colour dye absorbs heat at temperature 154°C and 207°C
onwards it will start to melt.

By comparing the results of dye characterization with piece dyed


Nomex fabric sample, it can be conclude that the colour change of
piece dyed Nomex is due to dyeing method that is piece dying
because in case of piece dyeing the dye molecules adhering on the
fibre.
CONCLUSION
Dope dyed and conventional dyed fibre were discriminated by examining the
cross sectional area of fibres using optical microscope at a magnification of
100X, which confirmed the presence and absence of pigments. Hence optical
microscope is a simple method to discriminate the fibres that are dyed with
different methods.
Microspectrophotometer is also an optical means of measuring intensity /
strength of colour qualitatively when the fibre axis is parallel and perpendicular
to polarizer. On examining the fibres with MSP dope dyed fibres shown
significant colour change in parallel and perpendicular cross section also the
strength/intensity of colour is higher. Hence it can be deduced that the dope
dyed fibres has higher linear dichroism and dichroic ratio compared to
conventional dyed fibres.
Differential scanning calorimeter is one of the thermal analysis techniques to
determine changes in heat capacity of the sample with respect to time and
temperature. From thermal characterization we observed that significant
changes in colour of piece / conventional dyed fibres or fabric, but there is no
significant changes in colour of dope dyed fibre or fabric when fibre samples
exposed to linear heating program 25˚C to 350˚C. Hence the dope dyed fibre
samples has higher durability at elevated temperature compared to piece dyed
SCOPE FOR FURTHER STUDY

 Future work can be focused on analysis of fibre cross


section using scanning electron microscope (SEM) to get
better understanding of presence and absence of pigments
and its distribution across the cross sectional area of fibre
samples.

Also other simple thermal analysis system like thermo


gravimetry analysis (TGA) can be utilized to determine
the changes in the mass of the fibre samples at elevated
temperatures.
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