Colloids and SurfacePhenomena

Aspects Of Make Up and Lipstick.

Group Members
CHAIN, KOK KEONG
LE, DIEUHANH THI
MCLAUGHLIN, KELLY E
VAN NATTER, RAINEE M
Date: 18th April 2002
 Introduction
• Definition of Cosmetic Ingredients
• Overview of Customer Requirements
• Role by Polymer and Surfactants
• Application in Cosmetic Products:
– Eye shadow and Blush
– Lipstick
– Liquid Cream
– Pressed Powder for both pale and dark skin
 Overview of Cosmetic
• Consumer aspect
– High quality
– Safe or non allergic
– Reasonable Price
– Multiple Performance
– Long Wearing
 Role by Polymer And Surfactant
• Polymer
– gel like, long chain carbon with cross-linked
conformation
• Encapsulation
• Firm distribution
• High internal surface areas, ideal sorption and desorption
mechanism
• Surfactant
– hydrophilic head group + hydrophobic tail
• Emollients, wetting agents, and emulsifying agents,humectants
• To promote lubricant, adhesiveness, slip and covering purposes
 What are pressed powder
properties?
• Slip
– Spread Easily, smooth feeling
– Rhapsody, Zinc Stearate
• Adhesiveness
– Cling Together
– Zinc Stearate, Octyl Palmitate
• Other Ingredients
– Coloring Pigments, Iron Oxide
– Shininess Appearance
– Not over darkness and chalkiness
Pressed Powder for both pale and
dark skin
Long Wearing Pressed Powder
(for a person having pale skin and dark skin)
Composition

Components Range
% by weight Pale skin Dark skin
(1) Talc, Rhapsody 70.0 - 90.0 90.5 (2M) 74.5 (4M)
(Filler/Matrix)

(2) Iron Oxides 0.1 - 10.0 0.5 15.0

(Colorants)

(3) Polyethylene, 2.0 - 6.0 3.0 0.0

Micronized

(4) Octyl Palmitate 2.0 - 8.0 3.0 0.0

(Liquid Binder)

(5) Zinc Stearate 2.0 - 6.0 0.0 3.5

(Solid Binder)

(6) Mineral Oil 70 cst. 2.0 - 9.0 0.0 7.0

(Liquid Binder)
ToTal 100.0 100.0
 Action and Mechanism
• Zinc Stearate
– Zn (C18H35O2)2,
– long hydrocarbon chain
– ideal physicals
• < 6% of moisture, alkaline, soluble in mineral oils
– promoting the powder flow ability
– reduced the interfacial tension
• Octyl Palmitate
– as liquid binder,
– provide cohesion
– as emulsifier, emollients
• Iron Oxide
– (Fe2O3) , Color Pigment
 How to Produce make up?
• Guidelines by Ultra. Chemical Inc.
– pulverize or to crush Rhapsody talc in to
powder form
– compress them into pan utilizing (200psi –
2000psi )
 Lipsticks
• Purpose:
– Protect lips from hard weather
– Color lips
• Objectives:
– Variation in color from application to application
– Lasts all day
– Removable with cleansers
• Basic categories of lipsticks:
– Matte: heavy in wax and pigment but lighter in emollients.
– Gloss: less wax and more oil to make the lips shinier.
– Long lasting: contains silicone oil, which seals the color the lips.
– Satin: combination of gloss and matte lipsticks.
– Frosted: include a pearl zing agent that adds luster to the color.
 Lipsticks
• Example of Lipsticks, Matte
• Formulation composition*
Components Range % by wt Preferred by wt
1. Candellela Wax 3.0-9.0 3.0
2. Ozokerite 1.0-4.0 1.0
3. Paraffin wax 2.0-5.0 2.0
4. Isosteryl Isostearated 2.0-10.0 10.0
5. Ultrapure HMP-S 8.0-10.0 10.0
6. Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 2.0-10.0 10.0
7. Castor Oil QS 51.6
8. Propyl Paraben 0.10 0.10
9. Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1-1.0 0.10
10. Colorants: D&C #7 CA lake 0.0-4.0 0.30
11. Red Oxide 0.0-3.0 1.5
12. Rhapsody Talc 4M 2.0-10.0 10.0
Total 100.0
*Ultra Chemical Inc.
 Lipsticks
• Function of Ingredients
1. Emollients
a. Castor oil:-extracted from castor plant
b. Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride:-oily liquid extract from plant
vegetable oil and dairy fats.
c. Isostearyl Isostearate
2. Emulsifiers
a. Paraffin Wax:-derived from petroleum
b. Ozokerite Wax:-ceresin wax, naturally occurs in mineral wax.
3. Preservatives
a. Propyl Parahen:-propyl-4-hydroxylbenzoate and prepare from p-
bromophenol
4. Colorants
a. D&C Red #7 CA lake:
b. Red Oxide
c. Ultrapure HMP-S
5. Binders
a. Candellia wax
 Lipsticks
• Processing
1. Heat the ingredients to 75-85degree Celsius
2. Mix until the batch is smooth and uniform
 Lipstick
Shapes, packaging and price

*There are different shapes and packaging

of lipsticks. The prices are ranging from
$1.99 to $29.99, depending to the Brand
name of product, such as Lancôme , Avon,
L’Oreal, etc.
~40 sec

Eyeshadow & Rouge

• Purpose:
– To provide color
• Requirements & Objectives:
– Contain pigments
– Adhere to skin
– Have adequate “slip” to spread onto skin
– Limited solubility in perspiration (to avoid
streaking), but easily removable with cleansers
– Safe for eyes (preservatives)
~25 sec

Forms
Dry, Compact Solid, creamy

Liquid
suspension/ (Black
emulsion Opal/BioCosmetic
Research Labs)
Solid, stick
(Almay, Inc.)

(L’Oreal) (Wet N Wild)

(Brief Overview
Slide)

Rouge/Eyeshadow Ingredients
• Filler
• Pigments and Opacifiers
• Binders
• Emulsifiers
• Emollients
• Preservatives
• Absorbents
• Perfume Carriers
• Viscosity controllers/thickeners
Talc already discussed (kkc) -
don’t describe in detail
Below: esters and oils
Main Ingredients
• Dry, Compact Cosmetics:
– Talc (3MgO·4SiO2·H2O) (Filler)
– “Slip” and shine due to lamellar structure
– Very soft
– White
– Adheres to skin evenly
• Liquid/Gel Rouges:
– Water (Solvent)
• Cream/Solid Cosmetics:
– Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Solvent & Emollient)
– Octyl Palmitate (Binder & Emollient)
– Mineral Oil (Binder)
– Castor Oil (see “Lipsticks”)
(Marmion, Sagarin 223-224)
~15 sec

Pigments & Opacifiers

• Purpose:
– To provide the color for the cosmetic
– Opacifiers increase the opaqueness (coverage) of the applied
cosmetic color
• Objectives:
– Should not change color, bleed, or streak with pH changes,
water, or oil (perspiration)
– Should not fade significantly when exposed to light
– Be heat stable
– Be easy to add into product
– Be non-toxic
– All pigments of same particle size

(Sagarin 229-235, Poucher III 283)

5 sec- refer them
to web site
Common Inorganic Pigments
Pigment Structure Color(s)
Talc MgO·4SiO2·H2O White (Filler, Opacifier)
Zinc Oxide ZnO White/yellowish white (Opacifier)
Titanium dioxide TiO2 White (Opacifier)
Mica K2Al4(Al2Si6O20)(OH4) or White, pearlescence
H2KAl3(SiO4)3
Carbon black C(s) Black
Iron Oxides Fe3O4 Black
Iron Oxides, ochres, umbers Fe2O3 Red, brown
Iron Oxides, Yellow ochres Fe2O3·H2O Yellow-orange
Siennas Yellow, Brown
Ultramarines ~Na7Al6Si6O24S3 Blues, violets, greens, pinks, reds
Chromium oxides, hydroxide Cr2O3, Cr2O3·3H2O Yellowish (sage) green, bluish green
Aluminum powder Al (s) Silver
Ferric Ferro-Cyanide, ferric Fe4[Fe(CN)6]3XH2O, Prussian blue
ammonium ferrocyanide
3+
Manganese Violet ~Mn NH4P2O7 violet
Bismuth Oxychloride BiOCl Pearly lustre

(Marmion 99-111, Sagarin 228,233, PCI, Jones)

 Binders, Emulsifying Agents,
Surfactants, and Emollients
• Binders:
– Provide cohesion of powders
• Emulsifying Agents/Surfactants
– Promote the mixing of otherwise immiscible liquids
– Lower surface tension, promoting more even mixing
• Emollients
– Soften and smooth the skin
• ***Many cosmetic ingredients serve more than 1 of these purposes, and thus
they have been combined for the purpose of listing ingredients.

(“European Commission”, Sagarin 257)

Only discuss
those found in
sample Common Binders, Emulsifying Agents, Surfactants,
formulation that
I pick and Emollients

• Zinc and Magnesium Stearate (dry binder)

• Caprylic/capric triglyceride (solvent/emollient)
• Octyl Palmitate (binder/emollient)
• Mineral Oil (binder/emollient)
• Petroletum (binder/emollient)
• Squalane (liquid binder/emollient)
• Isopropyl myristate (liquid binder)
• Waxes (binders/emulsion stabilizers/emollients/viscosity
controlling agents)
• Castor Oil (see “lipsticks”)

(“European Commission”, Sagarin 227,256-258,288,390, Poucher I 50,344)

 Preservatives & Absorbents
• Preservatives
– Purpose
• Inhibit the growth of micro-organisms
– Examples
• Parabens (esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid)
• Glyceryl Monolaurate
• EDTA
Paraben (p-hydroxybenzoate)
• Imidazolidinyl Urea
• Absorbents:
– Purpose: Absorb water/oil.
– Examples: Magnesium carbonate, Kaolin
• Perfume Carriers:
– Examples: Magnesium carbonate, Chalk

(“Product Dictionary”), (European Commission)

 Compact Powder Eyeshadow
(Compact Powder Rouge is manufactured similarly)
Talc (Filler) 64.7%(wt)
Ultramarine Blue (Pigment) 64.7%
Filler 20.0%
Octyl Palmitate
Pigment(Liquid Binder)
22.6% 7.0%
Squalane (Liquid Binder) 3.5%
Iron OxidesLiquid Binder
(Pigment) 10.5% 2.6% (Almay, Inc.)
Solid(Solid
Zinc Stearate Binder
Binder) 2.0% 2.0%
(Almay, Inc.) Glyceryl Monolaurate
Preservatives 0.6%
(monoglyceride) (Preservative) 0.5%
EDTA (Preservative) 0.1%
(Ultra Chem)

Procedure:
1. Mill, grind, mix dry powder ingredients
2. Spray liquid phase into powder while mixing
3. Distribute
4. Press
5. Dry

(Ultra Chem), (Sagarin 258-261)

 Liquid/Gel Rouge
Water (softened or distilled) 67%
Glycerin (solvent) 19%
Diethylene glycol monostearate
(emulsifier) 4.3%
Water 67%
Cetyl alcohol ethoxylate 2.9%
Other Solvents 19%
Titanium dioxide 2-3%
Pigment
Pigment 4.5% 2.0%
Emulsifiers
Iso-Propyl 9.6%
myristate (binder) 1.9%
CetylPerfumes
alcohol 0.2%
(L’Oreal)
(emulsifier/emollient)
Preservatives 0.15% 0.48%
Perfume 0.2%
Methyl paraben (preservative) 0.15%
Bromo acid (colourant) 0.02%
Procedure:
1. Heat and mix emulsion base.
2. Dissolve methylparaben in glycerin by heat (separate vessel).
3. Add water to glycerin and heat to 75°C.
4. Add water-glycerin mixture to emulsion base with slow, continuous stirring.
5. Allow to cool with continuous stirring.
6. Add perfume and pigment, including titanium dioxide, to mixture and mix
well.
(Poucher III 284)
 Solid (stick) Rouge
Castor Oil 77.4%
Candelilla wax 9.9%
Carnauba wax 2.7%
Color 10.0%
(Wet N Wild)
Perfume q.s.

(Processed similar to lipstick)

(Sagarin 254)
 Cream-Solid Eyeshadow
Petroleum jelly* (binder/base) 25.6%
Paraffin wax (binder/emollient) 22.6%
Isopropyl palmitate
(binder/emollient) 16.4%
Lustre Pigments
Binders/Emollients/ 10.3%
Pigments Emulsifiers 8.2%
82.0%
(Black Opal/ Beeswax (binder/emollient) 5.1%
BioCosmetic Research Labs) Pigment 18.5%
Oleyl alcohol (emulsion stab.) 5.1%
LanolinPerfumes
(emollient) 0.5%
4.1%
Cetyl alcohol (emulsifier/emollient)
Preservatives 3.1%
0.03%
Perfume 0.5%
Butylparaben (preservative) 0.02%
Propylparaben (preservative) 0.01%

Procedure:
• Heat together non-wax binders/emulsifiers/emollients
• Mix in preservatives and pigments
• Melt waxes and add with lustre pigments to base mixture
• Cool, and add perfume
• Pour into moulds and allow to set

(Poucher III 294)

 Mascara
Isoparaffin (Solvent) 69.7%
Pigments 12.0%
Beeswax
Solvent 5.4%
69.7%
Ozokerite
Waxeswax 5.4%
14.0%
Polyethylene
Pigments 4.2%
12.0%
Carnauba wax
Polyethylene 2.0%
4.2%
(Almay) Microcrystalline wax 1.2%

Procedure:
1. Mix polyethylene with about half the solvent
2. Heat to about 100°C with stirring
3. Add remainder of solvent
4. Cool rapidly
5. Add the pigments and melted waxes, and mixed thoroughly.

(Poucher III 305)

 Properties of Liquid Cream
• Cover blemishes in skin
• Even skin tone and texture
• Does not rub off
• Removable with cleansers
Liquid Cream Composition
Components Range (weight %)

Deionized Water
Hydroxethyl Cellulose 0.10 - 0.40
Xanthan Gum 0.40 - 0.40
Butylene Glycol 0.00 - 8.00
Lecithin 0.00 - 1.50
Polysorbate 20 0.00 - 1.50
Methyl Paraben 0.10 - 0.30
Iron Oxides 0.10 - 8.00
Titanium Dioxide 0.00 - 13.00
Talc, Rhapsody 4M 1.00 - 15.00
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 1.00 - 8.00
Isopropyl Myristate 1.00 - 8.00
Squalane 0.00 - 5.00
Stearic Acid 0.50 - 3.00
SE Glycerol Mono Stearate 1.00 - 4.00
Cetyl Alcohol 0.20 - 1.00
Fragrance 0.00 - 0.20
Additional Preservatives 0.00 - 0.50
 Function of Ingredients
• Humectants
– Reduce drying out of cream
– Moisturize skin
– Plasticize product
– Control texture
• Emulsifiers
– Create stable mixture of oil and water
 Function of Ingredients
• Emollients
– Smooth skin
– Soften skin
• Gums
– Protective colloid
– Suspending agent
– Film formation
 Function of Ingredients
• Vehicle
– Deionized water
• Filler/Matrix
– Talc, Rhapsody 4M
• Colorants
– Add color
– Iron oxides and titanium dioxide
 Function of Ingredients
• Fragrances
• Preservatives
 Processing
• Add deionized water to kettle and water
phase ingredients
• Disperse gums and pigments
• Heat to 75 deg C
• Combine oil phase ingredients separately
• Heat to 70 deg C
 Processing
• Add oil phase to water phase
• Cool to 35 deg C
• Add fragrance and preservatives
• Cool to 28 deg C
 Product -> Market -> Consumer
• Marketing Techniques
– Advertisement
• Visual, internet
• Odor, magazine
– Free Sample
– Counseling
• Product advice
– Consumer research
• questionnaires
– Efficiency
 Cosmetics Labeling
• Manufactures of cosmetics must print
certain information on the labels of each
product:
– The identity of the product
– The net quantity in metric units
– The name and address of the manufacturer or
distributor
– Any warnings or cautions necessary for the
safe use of the product.
 Labeling

• Types of labels
– White labels
– Clear labels
– Labels on the bottles
 Conclusion
• Characteristics of Polymer and Surfactant
– Suspension of cosmetic ingredients
– Favorable adhere to skin
• Eye shadow and Blush
– Color; binders (dry compact), emulsifiers (gel/cream)
• Lipstick
– Color; Waxes and vegetable oils as emulsifiers
• Liquid Cream
– Emulsifiers, preservatives
• Face Powder
– Reduce interfacial tension, adhere, slip
 References
Andersen, Kristin. “Cosmetic Colorants.” Healthwell. Penton Media (04 Apr 2002).
http://www.healthwell.com/hnbreakthroughs/apr98/colorants.cfm.
European Commission Enterprise DG UNIT F/3 - Biotechnology, Competitiveness in
Pharmaceuticals, Cosmetics. “The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.” (23 Oct
2001). http://eudrams1.is.eudra.org/F3/home.html - Inventory of Cosmetic Ingredients
Jones, Mr. “Photographic Chemical Descriptions.” (23 Mar 2001).
http://www.speakeasy.org/~mrjones/chemdesc.htm - photographic chemical site, used to get
pigment color of ferric ferrocyanide
Marmion, Daniel M. Handbook of U.S. Colorants for Food, Drugs, and Cosmetics. 2nd Ed. John Wiley &
Sons (1984).
Paint and Coatings Industry (PCI). (Iron Oxide Information)
http://www.pcimag.com/CDA/ArticleInformation/features/BNP_Features_Item/0,1846,13449,0
0.html.
Poucher, W.A., and G.M. Howard. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. Vol. I. 8th Ed. Chapman and Hall
(1974).
Poucher, W.A., and G.M. Howard. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. Vol. III. 8th Ed. Chapman and
Hall (1974).
“Product Dictionary.” Make Me Up (2000). http://www.emakemeup.com/ingredients.html - List
and short description of cosmetic ingredients
Sagarin, Edward, Ed. Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Interscience Publishers (1957).
Ultra Chemical Inc. “Pressed Eyeshadow, Matte.” (2000).
http://www.ultrachem.com/formulations/pressedeyeshadow.html.
Walgreens. http://www.walgreens.com. - Cosmetics photos.