EVALUATION OF DRAW

TEXTURED YARN
Yarn properties
The following yarn properties are evaluated in false twist textured
Yarn
Mechanical properties such as
• Yarn tensile performance like as linear density , Tenacity and
Breaking Elongation,
• Crimp values like Crimp Contraction, Crimp Modulus And
Crimp Stability
• Intermingle frequency and strength.
• Coning oil level
Structural properties such as
• Crystalline orientation function,
• Crystal size and the
• Crystal perfection index
• Yarn Denier (linear density);
• Uniform linear density (U%);
• Number of filaments present;
• Lustre (titanium dioxide content);
• Spin finish level;
• Molecular orientation;
• Tensile properties;
• Filament cross-section uniformity;
• Freedom from package build faults;
• Package identification.
Denier
• Denier is defined as the weight in grams of 9000 m
of fibre or filament and is a unit of linear density or
mass per unit length.
• The decitex of a yarn can be easily and routinely
checked with the use of a wrap reel having a
circumference of 1m and a balance capable of
weighing accurately to four decimal places.
• The decitex of the POY is calculated by wrapping a
skein of 100 m of yarn and weighing it.
• To obtain the result in units of decitex the weight in
grams is multiplied by 1000
Uniformity of denier
• This is a measure of the mass variability per unit length
of yarn.
• The unit of measure is U%, which is a unit in use
throughout the textile industry and is statistically
equivalent to the percentage mean deviation.
• The test is based upon a system whereby yarn is passed
at constant speed through a capacitance cell.
• The changes in capacitance seen are represented on a
chart as the U% value.
• The change in capacitance, recorded by the tester, can be
directly related to the mass of the fibre within the
measuring cell.
• For textile operations the U% value of the POY should
ideally be <0.8%.
Number of filaments
• The number of filaments present is directly related
to the denier of the yarn.
Lustre
• The consistency of the lustre of the POY is
determined by the homogeneity of the polymer.
Skein shrinkage:
• The length contraction of a skein of yarn, held at a
prescribed load and after heating under prescribed
conditions.
• Tests are designed to simulate various down-
stream processing conditions.
Measurement of Crimp Properties
• The traditional test for measuring crimp and
shrinkage is an effective way to characterise
crimped filament yarns.
• In this case, the length of a crimped yarn is
measured without stretch and the length after
stretching.
• The percentage crimp is calculated by dividing
the difference in length by the length of the
yarn with crimp.
• ASTM D6774 – 02 (2010) Standard specifies a test
method for crimp and shrinkage properties for the
texturised yarns using a dynamic texturised yarn tester.
• This test method covers the determination of
– Crimp Contraction,
– Residual Fibre Shrinkage And
– Their variability of all types of filament yarns (POY, FOY, flat
yarns, texturised and bulked continuous filament (BCF)
carpet yarns) using an automated tester.
• This test method is limited to crimped, multi-filament
yarns ranging from 22.0 to 890 dtex (15– 800 denier)
and for BCF yarns from 890 to 4200 dtex (800–3800
denier)
Crimp contraction or percentage crimp
• It is the contraction of a crimped fibre or a
texturised yarn owing to the development of
crimp, expressed as a percentage of its
straightened length.
Crimp elongation:
• The lengthening of a crimped fibre or of a
texturised yarn after development of a crimp
when it is straightened under specified tension
expressed as a percentage of its initial length
Crimp frequency:
• The number of crimps per unit length of the filament
yarn.
• Different methods are in common use for expressing
crimp frequency, based on half or whole waves and
on straightened or unstraightened length.
• These bases must therefore be specified in any
quantification.
Crimp, latent:
• Crimp that can be developed by a thermal treatment
or by tensioning and subsequent relaxation.
Crimp liveliness:
• The tendency for a texturised yarn to develop
its crimp immediately after the reduction in an
applied tension.
Crimp stability:
• The ratio of the crimp of a fibre or texturised
yarn after a specified treatment to the crimp
prior to treatment, expressed as a percentage.
• The method for determination of the crimp and
the treatment must be reported.
Method of testing the crimp
• A skein of the the texturised yarn is hung on a support
vertically on a board, which had a graduate scale fitted.
• The initial reading L1 is noted down without stretching
the skein.
• Then a fixed dead weight is hanged to the skein so that
the crimps become straight.
• The dead weight selected should be such that it
straightens the yarn but does not stretch.
• The length L2 is noted down of the straight skein.
• The crimp percentage can be calculated by using the
formula
• [(L2 – L1)/L1] × 100.
Yarn crimp measurement
• The test method involved the application of a load
to a yarn hank immersed in water and measuring the
contraction of the hank on load removal.
• The crimp contraction test procedure according to
the German Standard DIN 53840 has more recently
positioned itself as a global test method used in
quality control laboratories.
• By thermally treating a yarn hank of measured
length, prior to applying pre-determined load times
to the hank, differences in hank lengths as a result
of the load application are automatically measured
Crimp contraction
• It is particularly important, as this is a measure
of the ‘bulking’ of the yarn, affecting the fabric
cover.
• It is largely influenced by twist level and heater
temperature in the draw texturing process.
crimp stability
• The ability of the crimp to withstand load
• Higher values, largely influenced by process
tension, bring about increased crimp resilience
to load
Crimp contraction, %
• (E%)= [(lg – lz) / lg] x 100
Crimp modulus, %
• (K%)= [(lg- lf) / lg] x 100 (2)
Crimp stability, %
• (B%)= [(lg – lb) / (lg – lz)] x 100
Here,
– lg is the length with loading at 500 cN,
– lz is the length with loading at 2.5 cN,
– lf is the length with loading at 25 cN, and
– lb is the length with loading first at 2500 cN for 10
seconds and then unloading to 2.5 cN.
Yarn shrinkage
• The determination of the yarn shrinkage, due to
thermal or hydrothermal treatment, is a further test
method for the texturised yarns and other yarn types,
for example, according to DIN 53 866 or ASTM D
2259.
• In this instance, testing is carried out on the yarn
hanks by determining an initial length (length lg1),
followed by a thermal treatment and a second length
measurement (lg2).
• Shrinkage is calculated by applying the following
formula:
• Shrinkage = [(lg1 - lg2)/lg1] × 100 (%)
Yarn intermingle measurement
• For quality control of intermingling, statistical
analysis of intermingle performance, including
node distribution and maximum distance between
nodes, are features in laboratory testing
instruments
• the facility to measure intermingle retention after
subjecting the yarn to selected underfeeds
(tension) within the test
• Package unwinding performance, based on a
statistical analysis of tension peaks during off-
wind at pre-selected test speeds.
• Broken filament count.
Package density measurement
• Package density is important in all process
specification optimizations to ensure good package off-
wind performance
Wickability Tests
• Wicking property is introduced into a man-made
fibre yarn by texturising.
• Wicking is the spontaneous flow of a liquid in a
porous substrate driven by the capillary force.
• This flow in the porous medium caused by the
capillary action is governed by the properties of
the liquid such as surface-wetting forces and
geometric configuration of the pore structure such
as yarn construction, number of fibres in cross
section, the randomness of internal structure, twist,
fabric structure and loop formation especially in
the air-jet-texturised yarn
The crystallite size
• It was measured using the Scherrer equation:
C.S.= K λ / β cosθ
where:
• K - the Scherrer constant (0.9),
• λ - the wavelength of CuKα X-ray (1.54 A),
• β - FWHM (full width at half maximum),
• θ - the Bragg angle.
Crystalline orientation function
• It was measured using the equation:
fc = (180o – FWHM) / 180o
Crystalline Perfection Index (C.P.I.)
The samples were calculated as:
C.P.I. = (d200 /d002 – 1) / 0.189