HONEY

BEEKEEPING GROUP 1
1. E G A R O S A L I N D A 1 6 5 0 5 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0
2. D E L F I E R O B R A H M A N T Y A
165050100111019
3. B T A R I P R A B A S I N I 1 6 5 0 5 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 3 6
4. C H A I D A S A F I N A 1 6 5 0 5 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 3 9
5. FA J R I N N A D L I E F
BREED OF HONEY BEES

Italian – (Apis mellifera ligustica)

• Italian honey bees were brought to the
U.S. in 1859. They quickly became the
favored bee stock in this country and
remain so to this day. Known for their
extended periods of brood rearing,
Italian bees can build colony populations
in the spring and maintain them for the
entire summer. They are less defensive
and less prone to disease than their
German counterparts, and they are
excellent honey producers.
The Carniolan ‐ (Apis mellifera carnica)
• The subspecies A. m. carnica, from middle
Europe (Slovenia Region), also has been a
favored bee stock in the U.S. for several
reasons. First, their explosive spring
buildup enables this race to grow rapidly in
population and take advantage of blooms
that occur much earlier in the spring,
compared to other stocks. Second, they
are extremely docile and can be worked
with little smoke and protective clothing.
Third, they are much less prone to robbing
other colonies of honey, lowering disease
transmission among colonies. Finally, they
are very good builders of wax combs,
which can be used for products ranging
from candles, to soaps, to cosmetics.
The German ‐ (Apis mellifera
mellifera)
• The German or “black” bee are not
native to the New World, although
North America has about 4,000 native
species of bees. Honey bees were
brought to America in the 17th
century by the early European
settlers. This stock is very dark in
color and tends to be very defensive,
making bee management more
difficult. One of the German bees’
more favorable characteristics is that
they are a hardy strain, able to
survive long, cold winters in northern
climates.
The Caucasian – (Apis mellifera
caucasica)
Its most notable characteristic is its
very long tongue, which enables the
bees to forage for nectar from flowers
that other bee stocks may not have
access to. They tend to be a
moderately colored bee and, like the
Carniolans, are extremely docile.
However, their slow spring buildup
keeps them from generating very large
honey crops, and they tend to use an
excessive amount of propolis-the sticky
resin substance sometimes called “bee
glue” that is used to seal cracks and
joints of bee structures-making their
hives difficult to manipulate.
The Russian
• Russian bees tend to rear brood only
during times of nectar and pollen flows,
so brood rearing and colony populations
tend to fluctuate with the environment.
They also exhibit good housecleaning
behavior, resulting in resistance not
only to varroa but also to the tracheal
mite. They have excellent winder
hardiness. Bees of this stock exhibit
some unusual behaviors compared to
other strains. For example, they tend to
have queen cells present in their
colonies almost all the time, whereas
most other stocks rear queens only
during times of swarming or queen
replacement.
FEEDING BEES
WHEN
• Make up and use feeds of good quality pure sugar. White
granulated sugar is the most suitable source today.
• Pollen and water may also need to be supplied.
• For convenience, especially for larger scale beekeepers, obtain
a prepared bee feed from a suitable commercial source.
• Avoid feeding honey as it carries the risk of spreading bee
diseases and the odour increases the likelihood of robbing.
• Use the right method, time and type of feeder for the task.
• Avoid spilling or leaving syrup open to bees in the apiary.
• Take care to avoid robbing.
BEE CANDY

• Candy or bakers fondant was first used to feed bees in the 18th
century because it was the purest form of sugar then available.
• Today candy is used by many beekeepers to top up honeybee
colonies in winter and for use in package bees, queen mating
mini nuclei and queen introduction cages.
• It is best purchased from a bee supply merchant. If you wish to
make your own recipes can be found in relevant text books but
consistency tends to be variable when home made.
MAKING SUGAR SYRUP
• To make sugar syrup use white granulated sugar. With
modern production methods it makes no difference if it
was sourced from cane or beet.
• Do not use brown or raw sugars as they contain
impurities.
• The syrup should be made up in the proportion of 1 kg. of
granulated sugar to 630 ml. of water or 2 lb. sugar to 1
pt. of water. There is no need to boil the mixture but
using hot water helps. Stir regularly to remove the air
bubbles and dissolve all the crystals. When fully
dissolved the mixture is clear and a very pale straw
colour.
CONT.
• If syrup is stored for any length of time then a scummy black fungal
growth may appear. This can be prevented by adding a little thymol.
Thymol does not dissolve readily in water but a solution can be made up
in a small sealable bottle. Fill it to one third with thymol crystals* and
top the bottle up with surgical spirit. Add 2.5 ml. of this solution to 4.5 l.
of sugar syrup or half a teaspoon to a gallon of syrup. *Obtainable from
bee equipment suppliers.
• For some feeding, usually when it is for immediate use by the colony,
thin syrup is used. This contains twice the quantity of water and is best
made up for use as required.
• Sugar syrup can be stored and moved around in suitable clean plastic
drums. In the apiary a plastic watering can is a useful device for filling
feeders.
F E E D I N G WAT E R
• Honey bees require water for processing stores, making brood
food, maintaining humidity to ensure that eggs hatch, etc.,
and also for cooling the colony in hot weather. It is not stored
in the hive, although ‘reservoir bees’ will be carrying it in their
honey sacs.
• It is notable that feral honeybee colonies tend to follow water
courses when they swarm indicating the importance of water
to them.
• Apiary sites need to be assessed for the availability of suitable
water. Many public complaints are made because of bees
obtaining water from swimming pools, garden ponds, drying
washing, etc., especially during dry periods.
• If bees do not have adequate natural supplies, then provide a
supply by using a water feeder. Entrance-type feeders