Know about Footwear

Origin of Footwear

● First shoes Ice Age, around 500,000 years ago - protect against
harsh climate.

● Scientific approach around 10,000 yrs ago

● Intial shoe- A single piece of leather

● Later with many pieces with threads

● 19th century, the first step to mechanise -by attaching sole & upper.
 Indian Footwear Industry
● India's share 2.6% in global exports (2005), and 0.76% in total
India exports (2007)
● India Exports Leather footwear worth $US 856.05 in 2006-07
● India produces more of gents’ than ladies footwear.

● Industry is labour intensive- small and cottage industry sectors.

● Leather shoes and uppers : Large scale units

● Sandals and chappals : From household and cottage sector.

● The major production centers India are Chennai, Ranipet,

Ambur , Mumbai , Kanpur , Jalandhar , Agra and Delhi.
 Why Footwear
● To protect the feet
● For special tasks-football, cricket, Hockey etc.
● As protection equipment:mining, fire fighting, oil
fields
● To cover abnormalities- orthopedic foot.
● Shoes for ceremonial occasions /fashion
Classification of Footwear

● Open type- Chappals, sandals

● Closed type- Shoe, Boot

Leathers & Non leather Footwear

 How to make shoe for foot

● Foot length-Shoe length

● Foot width
● Foot finger joints- Vamp point, tread
● Back bone height- back height
● Prominence of side bones at ankle joint, Quarter height
Departments in a FW mfg unit

Designing Department

Clicking Department

Closing Department

Making & Finishing Section

Other units
 Parts of Footwear

Last

Sole
Upper
Parts of Footwear
 Basic shoe styles

Derby
Oxfor
d

Monk Court
Basic shoe styles

Sandal
Moccasin

Boot

Mule
 Lasts

- "LAST" - forothe word "LAEST" - means foot print

- Last is not the exact replica of the foot but resemble on which
shoe is made.
- It has the shape and fittings of a shoe made on it.
 Last Types

Scoop last Solid last

Wood Plastic Metal

Telescopic-Hinge Conventional Hinge

 Last terminology

•Fore part
•Back part
•Front cone
•Toe spring
•Heel height
•Feather edge
Last Designing with CAD

1. Reference points
2. Centre line
3. Top line
4. Heel line
5. I/O surface
6. I/O Heel Surface
7. Bottom surface
 Last Making

3D scanners

3D digitizers
Last Manufacturing

Portable NC Lathes
Designing Section

1. Existing 2D Design can be tr

2. Design can be created direct

 Shoe piece creation
● Flatten 3D design
● Creating- Mirror, parallels, fillets, chamfer,Treatments
● Creating- markers, Drills, stencils, notches
Treatments (Allowances)
Lasting
Folding
Sea
m Overlap
Trim

Notches
Chamfer
s
 Treatments (Edge)
Skiving

Folding
Burnished
 Treatments (Edge)

Binding

Bagging
 Sizing system

Shoe size: It is the length of the insole

Std length

Shoe length >Last length > foot length

Sizing system: A range of shoe sizes

 Different Sizing system

1. French system (paris point/continental) : 35,36,37

Increment :8.46 in length

2. English system (British) : 6,7,8

Increment 6.66
3. American system : 6,7,8

4. Mondo point (metric system)

Increment : 5 or 7.5 mm
 Fittings

This is generally refers to girth of the last

These are represented was numbers or letters

Lasts are made not only with different girth measurements for
different length but also with different girth for same length

English system: A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H, XH..

French: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8..
 Grading

Cilkc for grading presenation

 Working with 2D Patterns

2D Data can also be transferred in to CAD using 2D Digitize

Dem
o
 Imput to Grading (2D/3D)

● Give Length/width increment

● From std system

● Customer increments

● Provide length & width of Standard

● Size range and quantity of each pattern- master si

Grading
 Data to Plotter/Cutter

• Graded data cane be send directly to Cutter

• Automatic Layout of patterns as per paper size
• Text/size marks can be printed
 Costing the Footwear

Necessity of cost calculations

1. Upper is the single largest item in the shoe

2. Profitability depends on Accurate Costing

3. To Control Consumption by clickers

Costing with CAD

Best Interlocks
●

Complete Shoe cost

●

Bill of Materials
●

Costing with different methods

●

Easily presentable Formats

●
 Clicking section

2D pattens are used for

cutting leather-manually

Cutting dies are to cut by machines

 Die-Less Cutting

•Single or multiple layers

•Computerised lay plan
•without Dies
Types:
1. Knife Cutting
2. Water Jet Cutting
3. Laser Jet Cutting
Modern Cutting Room
 Closing section

Preparation, fitting and stitching various

components of the upper to make a complete
Closed upper

Cut leather pieces are marked, glued and stitched

 Bottoming section

All the shoe components are assembled to make complete shoe

Toe puffs Shoes are manufactured with

using different techniques
Stiffeners
Insoles
Mid soles
Sole
 Construction techniques

Cemented

Strobel

Goodyear welted
Injection process
Moccasin
Construction techniques

Goodyear welted

Moulded
Rapid Prototyping

● Also called as 3D printers

● Creates replica of 3D models

● Replica of Models can be produced bef

 Why IT needed Footwear

1. Consumer Expectations
-Low cost, high quality
2. Competition
-Innovative products
3. Fashion
nformation Technology in Footwear Mf

1. Designing Section
• Last making
• CAD/CAM in Designing
• Grading
• Costing

2. Clicking Section
Lay out making
Cutting-Dieless cutting
nformation Technology in Footwear Mfg

3. Closing Section
- Preparation of Specification Sheets
- Automatic stitching machines

4. Making & Finishing

- Computer controlled machines
- Robotics

5. Sole Making
- Sole Designing with CAD
- CNC milling
Thank you

A.V.Suresh