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One of the chief essentials in
building is that the structure
shall be dry .
A damp building is unhealthy
to those who occupy it, it cause
damage to the contents of the
building , and it gradually D
impairs the parts of the
structure affected. a
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Causes of dampness :
There are various causes of dampness in walls, the chief of which are:

• moisture rising up the ground from adjacent ground

• rain passing from the tops of walls
• rain beating against the walls which may absorb the water to such an extent
as to show dampness on the internal faces
• the absorption of water from the defected rain water pipes D
Although most damp problems are much less serious than they actually look, a
whatever the cause, damp can be very bad for our health. From aggravating
respiratory problems to encouraging the emergence of mites and mould, the m
effects of damp can be serious, not to mention making the whole property
cold and unappealing. p
In many cases, damp can be unwittingly encouraged due to poor
maintenance. There are several causes of damp in the home, but all can be n
remedied. Damp can be in or around the roof, walls, floors, windows, doors
or pipe-work on any property. Often, if there is a damp patch visible inside e
the home, the cause can be identified from an issue on the exterior. For
instance, a wet patch at the top of a wall might be due to a leaking gutter s
outside. So let's look at the main damp causes:
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Rising Damp:
Rising damp is caused by water soaking up through porous materials into the
floors and walls of the property, and usually occurs in houses which haven't
got a damp proof course, or the course has failed to work properly. Any wall in
contact with the ground can suffer from rising damp, thus affecting walls both
inside and out - however it rarely comes up further than one metre in height.
Penetrating Damp:
Penetrating damp is caused by issues with the building or plumbing, where a
problem has allowed water to enter the property. Symptoms will usually only D
occur during wet weather, but it can affect roofs and ceilings, along with walls.
Penetrating damp can sometimes be caused by gutter or roof problems which a
have allowed rainwater to spill onto and saturate areas of wall. Penetrating
damp is most frequent in older homes, which have solid walls. A new build m
property with cavity walls offers more protection and is unlikely to suffer from
this type of defect. p
Condensation:
Condensation differs from rising and penetrating damp in that it's caused by
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excessive moisture that cannot escape from the property (as opposed to water
coming in). If there isn't sufficient ventilation, condensation will arise and
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moisture will be in the air, even if you cannot see it. Using radiators to
constantly dry clothes, not opening windows, poor heating, and even portable
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gas heaters can all contribute.
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Rising Damp (Salt Damp)

Rising damp (or Salt Damp, as it is known in many parts of the world) is not
the most common form of dampness encountered in buildings; this is left to
condensation. However, a high proportion of older buildings are affected by
rising damp to some degree or another, as shown in the graph below: D
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CAUSE:
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Rising damp in buildings occurs when
water from the ground rises up through p
the bricks and mortar of a building by a
process loosely termed as "capilliarity." n
In simple terms, the water rises up the
wall of a building in the same way that e
oil rises up through the wick of a lamp.
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The height to which the water will rise depends on several factors including
pore structure of the bricks and mortar and the rate of evaporation. Masonry
containing a high proportion of fine pores will allow the water to rise higher
than a coarse pored material.

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Ground Water and Hygroscopic Salts
Ground water contains soluble salts, the most significant
of which are chlorides, nitrates and sulphates. When
rising damp occurs, these pass with the water up the wall
and are left behind when the water evaporates. Over
many years of active rising dampness large quantities of
these salts accumulate within the masonry and decorative
surface, most becoming concentrated in a general ‘salt
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band’ towards the maximum height of rise as illustrated
in the diagram on the left. Both chlorides and nitrates are
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usually hygroscopic, (i.e.they can absorb moisture from
the surrounding environment) and, in general, the
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greater the amount of salts the greater the absorption of
moisture - especially under humid conditions. Thus, even
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though rising dampness may have been controlled by the
insertion of a remedial damp-proof course these salts
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alone can cause the wall and any contaminated
decorations to remain damp. It is for this reason that
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specialist replastering is such an important aspect of
rising damp treatment
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Treatment of Rising Damp:

Treatment of rising damp (known as "damp-proofing" or "dampcoursing")

typically involves the installation of a chemical DPC, such as Dampcheck Plus
using specialist injection equipment, followed by replastering using a salt
retardant additive such as Renderguard Gold. However, with the introduction
of Dryzone Damp-proofing Cream, the process has now been simplified. The
Dryzone system is based on a high-strength damp-proofing cream that is
injected into holes in the masonry without the need for an injection pump. D
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Penetrating Damp
How to Spot and Deal with Damp:
Rising Damp
It can be spotted in a number of ways - namely, if the walls feel damp and
cold to the touch, or if there is distinguishing mark on the inside walls.
Internal decorations can become stained and damaged, and plaster can
become loose.
Penetrating Damp
Penetrating damp can be tricky to pin-point, and often may require
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expert help.
A watermark might appear, and grow if the water continues to enter. If
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not fixed, plaster may start to perish. m
Condensation
Mould may appear on walls, ceilings, furniture and even curtains. There
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is usually a strong musty smell present and, unlike the other types of
damp, condensation is largely caused by the inhabitants of the property,
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rather than problems with the actual building. e
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Penetrating Damp
How to Prevent, Monitor & Treat Damp:
There are several simple measures that will remedy damp, so it is worth
looking over your property thoroughly before instructing an outside firm
to carry out expensive work. The problem may be something you can fix
quickly with an anti-damp product or a spot of DIY repair.

Rising Damp
Classic rising damp is usually worse at the bottom of a wall than at the D
top. Apart from blocked airbricks, the most common cause is 'bridging' -
when earth from the garden butts up directly on to the house wall, a
trapping moisture. This is a common problem, but can be remedied by
simply digging away all the soil to see if it makes a difference. If not, you m
may need to look into installing a damp proof course (DPC) - more on
these shortly - or if you have one, it is probably failing to do its job. p
In old properties, it may prove difficult to install a DPC, so chemical
methods - injected into the problem areas - may be the only solution. If n
the damp is rising through floorboards, a damp-proof membrane may
have torn, so it would be best to look into re-fitting. e
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Penetrating Damp

Penetrating damp forms when water gets in from the outside, so the first
step is to check everything in and around the property! Examine gutters,
downpipes, flashing, rendering and window frames in detail. Always
make sure that downpipes are unobstructed, and if the guttering has seen
better days, think about replacing it with new easy-to-fit plastic guttering. D
Check the rendering to see if it's cracked, plus look at re-sealing any gaps
around window frames. Be sure to check underneath window sills as a
there should be a drip groove to shed rainwater, before it gets to the
house wall. If this is blocked with moss, dirt or cement, clear it m
thoroughly.
An ill-fitted roofing felt on a flat roof will also cause damp. And a cracked p
wall can let in water, so repair with suitable filler, and fit insulation
rubber or weather bars to all door frames. An exterior waterproofing fluid n
is useful if your exterior brickwork has become porous. This will give it a
new water-resistant skin. It only needs to be painted on when the e
brickwork is completely dry and should also reduce heat loss inside the
house (as dry walls give much better insulation than wet ones). s
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Condensation

Condensation forms when warm air trapped inside the house meets cold
walls, and mould quickly spreads. To test, place condensation test strips
on the coldest walls - these will change colour if condensation is
occurring. A portable humidifier, which will suck up moisture in the air,
can help, as will maintaining regular heating, and adequate insulation.
Look at DIY film glazing, which can help if windows are the cause.
Humidity-controlled extractor fans can be a great help too. To remove
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mildew caused by condensation, scrub well with a mix of hot water and
bleach - leave it to work for several minutes, and then clean off
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thoroughly. m
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What is a Damp Proof Course?

To prevent water absorbed from the soil rising and causing dampness in th
ewall and any adjacent woodwork and plaster , a continuous layer of any
impervious material is provided. This layer is known as the horizontal damp
proof course.
The position of such a course varies from 150 to 300mm above the ground
level . The level should not be less than 150 mm. otherwise soil (forming
flower beds and the like) may be deposited against the external face of a wall D
at a greater height than the impervious layer and thus water may be
transmitted from it to the wall above the damp proof course. a
The second cause of dampness ( rains passing from the top of the walls) may m
be prevented by a horizontal damp proof course immediately below the top
course of brick work or some little distance below it. Thus in the case of p
boundary walls , the damp proof course may be placed immediately under the
coping and the parapet walls may be protected by continuing the cover n
flashing the full thickness of the walls. Similarly a horizontal D.P.C. should be
placed in a chimney stack at its junction with a roof. e
Vertical D.P.C. is necessary to exclude dampness in basement. s
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Modern homes, built over the last fifty years, normally have cavity walls - two
layers of bricks with a space between - and this can help prevent damp. And at
the base of the walls, a damp proof course (DPC) is usually installed, which
comprises of a waterproof covering, such as slate or a bituminous material.
Classic rising damp, where the damp is worse at the bottom of the wall,
usually will be remedied by a new DPC.

But even though an inadequate damp proof course can't be fixed, it can be D
replaced quite easily.
The simplest and most cost-effective method is to use a chemical injection, a
and all the equipment that is required can be hired. The DIY process involves
drilling the necessary holes (around 10mm), and ensuring they are downward m
sloping to about 150mm below floor level. The holes should be angled, so they
slope to the centre of the wall. Holes may be needed on both sides if the wall is p
especially thick. The brickwork around the holes sweats when there is enough
chemical injected into it, and the final and crucial step involves sealing the n
holes with mortar or plastic plugs.
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Check List

Wall ties dirty: Can cause damp spots to appear on the inside plaster,
sometimes with 'salt' or black mould.
Remedy - use a metal detector to locate the ties on the outside, examine with
a borescope and remove a brick or block from the wall and clean the ties.

Wall ties rusting: can cause damp spots to appear on the inside plaster,
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sometimes with 'salt' or black mould.
Remedy - Use a metal detector to locate the ties on the outside, examine
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with a borescope and if necessary fit replacement ties before isolating or
removing the old ones, (see Check Wall Ties Project).
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Poor cavity insulation job: can cause cold spots on the inside plaster,
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sometimes with 'salt' or black mould.
Remedy - Try re-injection first, but if this is not successful remove a brick or
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block from the wall and check the cavity insulation. e
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Penetrating dampness: Due to poor 'pointing' (mortar in the joints
between bricks or blocks), crumbling or cracked brick faces (spalling) or
cracked or hollow render. Dampness that comes through the wall may bring
'salts' to the surface of the plaster and these 'salts' attract more moisture from
the air.
Remedy - rake out the joints and re-point with a soft mortar mix (6:1:1 -
sand/cement/lime) with a plasticiser additive in the mix (Renderproof) or
hack off and re-render, again with a soft mix, but using SBR to bond the new
render to the wall and the edges of the old render. Scratch well between coats
and damp the wall well before and after rendering, to slow the drying process
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(reduces the risk of cracking). a
Condensation: This forms on the coldest surfaces in a room and often grows
'black mould'.
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Remedy - hack off all the plaster and fit an Air Gap Membrane, plus
insulation.
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Damp course 'bridged' or covered by high ground, pathway, garden or
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abutting new structure, (e.g. conservatory, steps): the damp proof course
must be a minimum of 6 inches (150mm) above outside ground level, in order
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to avoid rainwater splash up causing penetrating dampness.
Remedy - Remove the obstruction or inject a new damp proof course at the
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proper level (see Damp Proof Injection - small jobs Project) s
Service fixing, pipe or wire penetrates the wall: pipes, wires, bolts and other
fixtures that pass into the wall can carry moisture inside, which may emerge
at that level or drip down and show elsewhere.
Remedy - remove the obstruction, or carefully seal the entry point. Pipes and
wires should always be routed to climb up the wall immediately before
entering the duct or hole, to avoid channelling the water by gravity.

Water pipes concealed inside the wall: usually heating or mains water, but
can also be boxed in foul water pipes or cistern overflows in modified houses.
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Remedy - remove the boxing or a brick or block from the wall to expose the
defect..
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Indoor Walls - ground floor, a quick summary checklist:
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Symptom - white, fluffy salts, plaster possibly 'blowing' off the wall -
'efflorescence' - you have a water source which needs to be found and
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eliminated. Use our Water Leak Checklist n
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Answer - Salt Neutraliser might work if you can find and stop the leak, or the
plaster may be too damaged and need replacement to our Specification.

Symptom - damp patches (at low level, right down to the skirting board) that
come and go - you have 'hygroscopic' salts that are attracting moisture from
the air.
Answer - you may have Rising Dampness, or your damp proof course may be
'bridged' by high outside ground, plaster on the inside or debris in the cavity
(cavity walls only). Rectify any defects and if necessary inject Quick Cream at
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the correct level to form a new Damp Proof Course. The plaster will need
replacement to our Specification.
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Symptom - damp patches on or around chimney breasts - sometimes showing
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yellow or brown stains in wallpaper or paint - you have 'hygroscopic' chimney
salts that are attracting moisture from the air, which may include tars and
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other chemicals from burning wood or coal. n
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Answer - these 'salts' are very difficult to hold back in the wall, even with the
replastering to our Specification carried out to perfection. We recommend
using Mesh Membrane - a type of dry lining - to allow you to replaster
using normal, lightweight plaster, with no risk of further 'salting'.
Products mentioned above:
Salt Neutraliser - a clear liquid used to neutralise 'salts' in render, plaster or
masonry, either to attempt to save otherwise sound plaster or as a preparation
prior to re-plastering to our Specification. Apply two coats, wetting in between
with fresh water.
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Mesh Membrane - easy to install dimpled plastic 'air gap' dry lining
membrane, supplied in rolls like wallpaper. Designed to cover damp or salty
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walls and provide a fresh surface for replastering with a modern lightweight
plaster (usually 'bonding').
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Quick Cream - new, easy to install, cream damp proofing product - no pump
required, no mess, no smell - includes injection nozzle extension. Designed to
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gently diffuse into the wall to form a water repellent layer - a 'damp proof
course' (DPC
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THANK YOU D
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