Teori Gelombang dan Pasang Surut

Kuliah 1, 2, dan 3
 Coastal Profile
Figure 1
 The offshore
 Nearshore
 Beach
 Coast
WAVES ON THE COASTLINE
ZONES ON THE BEACH
Formation of actual breakers

Schematic cross section showing deep-water waves entering shallow water.

Wavelength decreases as wave height increases and the wave breaks.
Note the transition, breaker, surf and swash zones.
 Linear Water Waves
(The Small-Amplitude Theory)
kinematics, pressure, wave energy and power, group celerity

 The small-amplitude theory for two-dimensional, freely

propagating, periodic gravity waves is developed by linearizing the
equations that define the free surface boundary conditions.
 With these and the bottom boundary condition, a periodic velocity
potential is sought that satisfies the requirements for irrotational
flow.
 This velocity potential, which is essentially valid throughout the
water column except at the thin boundary layers at the air–water
interface and at the bottom, is then used to derive the equations
that define the various wave characteristics (e.g., surface profile,
wave celerity, pressure Weld, and particle kinematics).
 More detail on the small-amplitude wave theory can be found in
Wiegel (1964), Ippen (1966), Dean and Dalrymple (1984), U.S.
Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (1984), and Sorensen
(1993).
INTRODUCTION
Swell propagation is a « quasi » linear process outside
the surf zone

water particle trajectories in progressive waves

of different relative depth (Dean & Dalrymple, 1991; their fig 4.3)
Surging

• Flat, low waves

• Steep beaches
• Waves run close to shore prior to breaking

Spilling

• High, short waves

• Flat beaches
• Waves breaking substantial distances offshore
•Highly turbulent system
•Highest potential for nearshore sediment transport.
Shore-Normal Variations in the Reynolds Number (Re) and
the Froude Number (Fr) and Associated Bedforms

Re < 500 – Laminar Flow Fr < 1 – Sub-Critical Flow

Re > 2000 – Turbulent Flow Fr > 1 – Super-Critical Flow
For practical purposes, one considers that a wave is moving in
deep water when its wave length is less than twice the depth and
that a wave is moving in shallow water when its wave length is
more than 1/20 of the depth. In those two cases the dispersion
relations can be approximated (with a error less than a few%)
with the following relations :

in deep water :   gk in shallow water :  2  gk 2 d

2

T=10s, =156m d>78 m =1OOm d<5 m T=/sqrt(gd)=14s

d</20
So long waves (large period) fell the bottom at larger
depth than short waves, and the longer the swell is, the
more important the wave transformation is.

water particle velocities (Dean & Dalrymple, 1991; their fig 4.1)
 H cosh k (h  z1 )
  sin( kx1  t )
2 sinh kh
H sinh k (h  z1 )
  cos(kx1  t )
2 sinh kh
water particle trajectory (Dean & Dalrymple, 1991; their fig 4.2)
Particle kinematics progressive waves

H
  cos (kx  t )
2
H cosh k (h  z )
 C sin( kx  t )
2 sinh kh
 horizontal and vertical velocity

 H cosh k ( h  z )
u   cos(kx  t )
x 2 sinh kh

 H sinh k (h  z )
w   sin( kx  t )
z 2 sinh kh

Water particles in a wave over shallow water move in an almost closed circular
path near the surface. The orbits become progressively flattened with depth as
shown on the figure below.
 STANDING WAVE
Can be written as the superposition of two progressive
waves propagating in the opposite directions

H
  cos kx cos t
2
Hg cosh k (h  z )
 cos kx sin t
2 cosh kh
In shalow water, the wave period T necessary to
produce a seiche in a closed basin of dimension L is
T=2xL/sqrt(gd) or with wave lenght of two times L.
For an open basin on one edge, T=4xL/sqrt(gd)
distribution of water particle velocities in a standing wave
(Dean & Dalrymple, 1991; their fig 4.6)

There is no crest propagation.

 particle displacement in a standing wave

mean position (x1,z1)

H cosh k (h  z1 )
  sin kx1 cos t
2 sinh kh
H sinh k ( h  z1 )
 coskx1 cos t
2 sinh kh
 particle velocities in a standing wave

 H cosh k (h  z )
u   sin kx sin t
x 2 sinh kh

 H sinh k (h  z )
w    coskx sin t
z 2 sinh kh
 Engineering wave properties

Starting from a flat surface, it is the energy necessary to move the

water in order to get a wavy surface, because of the gravity force.

potential energy waves

(Dean & Dalrymple, 1991; their fig 4.11)
 potential energy

d ( PE )  dmgz
h 
z
2
xL xL
1 1 (h   )2
( PE )T 
L x d ( PE ) 
L  g
2
dx
x
H2
( PE ) waves  g
16
h2 H2 g
( PE )T  g  g
N

2 16 ( PE ) waves 
16
 n
H 2

n 1
 kinetic energy
u 2  w2 u 2  w2
d ( KE )  dm   dxdz
2 2

xL
1  u 2  w2
KE 
L x
h  2 dzdx

H2 mean energy, over one wave

KE  g lenght or one wave period, due to
16
the orbital velocities of the
water particles
 total energy

2
H
E  KE  PE  g
8
 wave power

power transmitted to a vertical surface of 1m width

from the surface to the bottom.
 energy flux

work done by the dynamic
pressure
F p
h
D  u dz

t T 
1
averaged over one
wave period
F
T  p
t h
D  u dz dt

t T 
1 cosh k (h  z ) gHk cosh k (h  z )
F
T t
h g cosh kh  2 cosh kh cos(kx t ) dz dt
 H cosh k (h  z )
p   gz  g cos(kx  t )
2 cosh kh

p   gz  gK p (z )

hydrostatic dynamic

cosh k ( h  z )
pressure response Kp 
factor cosh kh
 group velocity Cg
H H
  1 2  cos (k1 x   1t )  cos (k2 x   2t )
2 2
 k
1    , k1  k 
2 2
 k
2    , k2  k 
2 2

1   
  H cos( kx  t ) cos  k  x  t 
2  k 


group velocity Cg 
k
wave group characteristics
(Dean & Dalrymple, 1991; their fig 4.12)