Human resources Requirements for Sustainable Production • Most of us know what fashion is. • Many of us know what sustainability is. • When it comes to exploring the relationship between the two, we can very quickly find ourselves on new ground. • For the relationship between fashion and sustainability is active and complex and each time we look at the key ideas or issues at stake, different aspects seem to come to light. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Sometimes what is emphasized is technical information about toxic chemicals or working conditions in mills and factories on the other side of the world. • At other times, the fashion and sustainability relationship seems best understood by looking at what goes on locally: networks of handcrafters; dyes made from species of plant found only in local hedgerows (borders); our individual laundering practices. Requirements for Sustainable Production • The truth is, of course, that sustainable fashion is all of these and more. • It is a celebration of ingenuity, vitality, care, resourcefulness and strong relationships between us and our world, expressed in garment form. • These sustainability values will help shape the future of fashion and give us a mental picture and about the direction in which we should head. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Part of this “shaping” involves reducing the impact of the fashion sector as it exists today - and it is a massive job. • For the production and consumption of fashion impacts hard on ecosystems, communities, workers and consumers in a variety of challenging and sometimes surprising ways. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Producing fashion clothes, and the textiles they are made from, is one of the longest and most complicated industrial chains in manufacturing industry. • It starts in fields with the cultivation of fiber crops like cotton and wool or in chemical plants where fibers like polyester are extracted; and ends up in homes, on our bodies and in landfill sites. Requirements for Sustainable Production • The journey in between involves the use of lots of labor, water, energy and processing chemicals and produces waste and pollution. • Thus it makes sense that sustainable fashion activity is underpinned by a deep awareness of the use of resources and how these resources are organized to meet people’s needs. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Central to this is “lifecycle thinking”, an approach that sees garments as a mosaic (combo) of inter-connected flows of materials, labor and move through phases of a garment’s life from fiber cultivation, to processing and transportation and into garment use, reuse and eventual disposal. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Such lifecycle thinking is inspired principally from the study of ecology, where each part of a system influences every other, and where overall system effectiveness is prioritized over the individual parts. • When fashion is looked at from a lifecycle perspective, what is revealed are “hotspots” of harmful impact and opportunities for the greatest whole system improvement. Requirements for Sustainable Production • For some fashion clothes, these hotspots of harm are linked to material choices. • Traditional views of sustainable fashion focus their attention almost exclusively on materials and their origin; on whether fiber is organically grown and fairly traded, or whether materials are from rapidly renewable sources or from recycled yarn. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Today for example over 20 major brands and 1200 smaller ones now sell organic fiber products. • Yet for many other fashion clothes, choice of materials has only limited effect on overall product sustainability. • In the case of frequently laundered clothes for instance, the overwhelming hotspot of harm is the use phase of a garment’s life. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Here it is our laundering choices, washing, drying and ironing behavior and perceptions of cleanliness that have most influence over our clothes’ sustainability. • Yet these flows of resources are only part of the story. • Fashion clothes are much more than the fiber and chemicals needed to make them. Requirements for Sustainable Production • They are signs and symbols, expressions of culture, newness and tradition. • They link us to time and space and deal with our emotional needs, manifesting us as social beings, as individuals. • Thus sustainability issues in fashion are as much about cultural, economic and social phenomena as material and manufacturing ones. Requirements for Sustainable Production • For in order to make sustainability happen in the fashion sector, there needs to be change at many levels: we need both root and branch reform. • Making such sustainability-inspired reform to fashion brings to the fore the sector’s key issues, these include: Requirements for Sustainable Production • Damaging agricultural practices where some natural fibers – most notably cotton – are cultivated with very large quantities of pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, water and energy in large farms, with no crop variety, have an effect to (1) Reduce the fertility of the soil (2) Create water pollution Requirements for Sustainable Production (3) Damage the diversity of plant and animal species (4) Develop pesticide resistance, leading to ever higher levels of pesticides being applied in order to control pests (5) Damage to workers’ health through exposure to acutely toxic pesticides. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Resource intensive fiber, fabric and garment manufacturing including significant use of energy and petrochemical resources for synthetic fibers like polyester; pollution to air and water from production of synthetic and cellulose-based fibers (like viscose); and for all fibers large water consumption, use of toxic chemicals and waste generation. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Exploitation of garment workers who experience labor abuses including poverty wages, excessive working hours, forced overtime, lack of job security and denial of trade union rights. • In recent years, working conditions in factories have been forced ever lower in what is called a “race to the bottom” as manufacturers compete on price for a place in the supply chain of big brands. Requirements for Sustainable Production • Damaging effects of fashion trends and imagery where the drive to constantly “renew” ourselves in the light of changing trends helps feed short-term thinking, psychological insecurity and rising levels of mental illness; while fashion imagery is linked to body issues and serious medical conditions like anorexia, which is now reaching record levels in young men as well as women. How does Hemp fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Hemp (Cannabis sativa) has a lot of good environmental criteria. • It is fast growing and smothers out other plants (including weeds) therefore not requiring any application of herbicide. • It appears to grow better in an organic system than in a conventional one. How does Hemp fair environmentally and socially as a material? • It grows well in cooler climates and little or no irrigation is required. • It grows to between one and four meters tall and yields around 6 tonnes per hectare and 20- 30% of the plant is fiber. • Hemp has far higher fiber yields than other natural fibers. How does silk fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Information on the environmental impacts of silk production is difficult to identify. • Silk worms are easily affected by agrochemicals, so it would seem likely that few pesticides are used in both the cultivation of worms, or in their diet (predominately mulberry bushes). How does silk fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The process of degumming the silk has traditionally used detergent and hot water which have implications for the environment if discharged untreated in large enough quantities. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The environmental impacts associated with the cultivation of cotton are well known and include: (1) Reduced soil fertility; (2) Soil salinisation; (3) Loss of biodiversity; (4) Water pollution; (5) Adverse changes in water balance How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? (6) Pesticide-related problems including resistance (7) Severe health problems relating to exposure to acutely toxic pesticides How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Intensive cotton production causes a range of environmental impacts; mainly in cotton producing nations. • Cotton is highly vulnerable to insect attack, is normally cultivated as a mono crop and therefore cannot be sustained without large quantities of pesticides and fertilizers. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • In mono cropping, the natural systems of nutrient cycling and pest control become redundant. • Pesticides account for more than 50 per cent of the total cost of cotton production in most of the world. • The most widely used groups of pesticides on cotton are insecticides and have been classified by the World Health Organization as 'moderately hazardous'. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • However, some insecticides that are widely used, especially in developing countries, are classified as 'highly hazardous', these are generally acutely toxic and are nerve poisons. • Cotton fiber production also requires large quantities of fungicides, herbicides and defoliants. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Large amounts of synthetic fertilizers (often based on nitrogen compounds) are also used and can result in nitrate contamination to water. • Fertilizer pollution of water can cause accelerated growth of aquatic plants and algae and lead to eutrophication, which can deoxygenate the water to a state in which it cannot support animal life. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Water consumption in cotton fibre production is another significant factor and ranges from 29000 litres in Sudan to 7000 litres in Israel. • As all irrigation water contains some soluble salts it causes soil salinisation, reducing fertility. • Cotton contains many impurities (seeds, dirt and plant residues) which have to be removed to convert it into useful textile fibers. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • About one third of the raw material is cotton fiber, the rest is seeds and impurities. • Hand picked cotton contains considerably fewer impurities than cotton which is machine picked. • Naturally colored fibers produce a fiber which does not have to be bleached or dyed. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Naturally pigmented or 'native' cottons were conserved by traditional people and have a range of colors including beige, brown, green and mauve. • However, there are a number of problems associated with these cotton varieties, such as short staple and fineness which has limited industry interest. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The genetic modification (GM) of biological species via the use of bacteria, fungi or enzymes has implications for the textile sector. • Two types of genetically modified cotton have been introduced in the last two years: Bt- cotton which contains a gene that enables the plant to produce its own pest-killing toxin, and herbicide resistant cotton developed to tolerate specific herbicide applications. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The reported benefits of both of these varieties lie in the reduced levels of pesticide application required. • However, like all GM technology there are concerns about pest resistance. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The first serious step towards organic cotton growing and processing was taken in Turkey in the early 1980s. • Since then, the amount of organic cotton produced has grown steadily – from 3,400 tonnes in 1992 to nearly 13,000 tonnes in 1995. • The number of acres of organically grown cotton in California, for instance, grew from 5,000 to 40,000 between 1998 and 2002. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • This led to 12,500,000 fewer pounds of agrochemicals being used. • Without the use of pesticides, crop yields fall when farmers first turn to organic methods. • For example, in Turkey, changing to organic production resulted in a drop from 3,160 to 1,500 kilos per hectare. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • But the yield gradually recovered, with production increasing to 2,750 kilos per hectare. • On average, organic cotton crop yields are about 14% lower than conventional cotton crops. • However, income is about 6% higher because production costs are lower. How does cotton fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Soil fertility, pest management and natural controls have all helped to reduce the presence of insects that can damage the cotton. How does wool fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The production of wool involves the use of pesticides, which cause particular impacts both as they are applied on the farm and in subsequent downstream processing. • Traditionally sheep have been dipped to control parasite infection. • The two pesticides most commonly used for dipping are organophosphates and pyrethoids. How does wool fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Exposure to the former is linked to severe nerve damage in humans. • This has led to an increased use of the latter which has given rise to a significant growth in incidences of water pollution as pyrethoids are one thousand times more toxic to aquatic life than organophosphates. How does wool fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The production of organic wool is extremely small-scale. • It requires that at least 75% of the food consumed by the sheep is organically grown. • In addition, the use of preventive medicine, pesticides and synthetic growth promoters are not allowed. • Organic sheep rearing is almost solely associated with organic sheep meat production. How does wool fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Major environmental impacts are associated with initial cleaning of raw wool (scouring). • Effluents arising from wool scouring are significant in terms of their pollution potential to both water and land. • Raw wool like all other natural fibers contains many impurities. How does wool fair environmentally and socially as a material? • It is scoured at hot temperatures in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) and detergent to emulsify the grease. • The process produces an effluent with high suspended solids content. How does Lyocel fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Lyocel is made from wood pulp, but is processed so that water and solvents are recycled with minimal loss, thus reducing environmental impact. • The process involves mixing wood pulp with amine oxide and then spinning the 'dope' into an amine oxide solution. • This is then purified and recycled back to the main process. How does Lyocel fair environmentally and socially as a material? • While the process of Lyocel production consumes few other resources, it appears to be energy intensive, although little information is available regarding energy consumption or other environmental impacts. • Properties: (1) Soft, strong, absorbent (2) Fibrillated during wet processing to produce special textures How does Lyocell fair environmentally and socially as a material? (3) Excellent wet strength (4) Wrinkle resistant (5) Very versatile fabric dyeable to vibrant colors, with a variety of effects and textures. (6) Can be hand washable (7) Simulates silk, suede, or leather touch (8) Good drapability (9) Biodegradable How does Linen fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The production of flax (or linen) is often carried out with the use of agricultural chemicals and in particular fertilizers and herbicides to control weeds. • The flax is often grown in cooler climates than other natural fibers like cotton and extensive irrigation is not required, so avoiding environmental impacts associated with water consumption, pollution and soil salinisation. How does Linen fair environmentally and socially as a material? • It is also suggested that fibers like flax and also hemp, jute and kenaf grow well on land unsuitable for food production and may help re-cultivate soils polluted with contaminants such as heavy metals. • The traditional process of degumming flax fibers from the stalk (retting) involves placing small bundles of stalks in water tanks, open retting ponds or running river water while the stalk rots and the fibres are separated from the woody core. How does Linen fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Water retting is linked to water pollution as nutrients from the decaying stalks promote high levels of BOD and COD. • Alternatives to water retting exist and include among others: dew retting, where plants are left to decompose on the ground with the right conditions of heat and moisture; and enzyme retting, in which enzymes are applied to the flax either in the field or in tanks and which avoid pollution problems associated with the traditional method. How does Nylon fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Nylon (or polyamide) fibres are based on a petrochemical feedstock. • There are several forms of nylon, in general terms chemicals are combined to form a polyamide salt. • The molecules of the two chemicals react under high pressure and heat. • The polymer is then extracted and cooled with water. How does Nylon fair environmentally and socially as a material? • While details of the production sequence for nylon fibres are well documented, information or analysis of the environmental impacts appear to be extremely limited. • That is with the exception of nitrous oxide (N2O) emissions from nylon production, which from a single UK site have a global warming impact equivalent to more than 3% of the UK's entire carbon dioxide emissions. How does Polyester fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The agents used in the manufacture of polyester fibre are oducts of the petrochemical industry. • Petroleum products are not solely used as feedstock, other fossil fuels are used to provide energy; the consumption of energy has far-reaching environmental implications, the most serious of which include climate change and ozone depletion. How does Polyester fair environmentally and socially as a material? • In general terms, water consumption in the production of manufactured fibres is lower than for natural fibres. • Polyester for example, can be processed by several routes, some requiring no water. How does Polyester fair environmentally and socially as a material? • In terms of emissions to air and water arising from the production of polyester fibres, the presence of a number of substrates have been identified which are perceived to have a medium to high potential of causing environmental damage if discharged untreated. How does Polyester fair environmentally and socially as a material? • These include: - heavy metal cobalt and manganese salts; - sodium bromide; - titanium dioxide; - antimony oxide; - acetaldehyde. How does Viscose fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Cellulosic fibres like viscose are formed from natural polymers which are then dissolved and extruded as a continuous filament. • A common source of cellulose for these fibres is fast growing soft woods such as eucalyptus, which have a harvest cycle of seven years. How does Viscose fair environmentally and socially as a material? • Eucalyptus is often grown as a monocrop and there are significant environmental issues associated with such plantations, such as loss of biodiversity. • Processing requires external inputs of energy, water and other raw materials and emissions are produced. • The cellulose is pulped in a sulphite-based process and then spun, both with significant environmental impacts. How does Viscose fair environmentally and socially as a material? • The production of viscose generates emissions to air in the form of sulphur, nitrous oxides, carbon disulphide and hydrogen sulphide. • Emissions from the process to water result in high levels of COD and BOD. • These emissions are all considered to have major potential for creating environmental problems if discharged untreated. Other Fibers • The Swiss company Rohner Textil developed a new material called Climatex which meets the textile Eco-Label "Eco-Tex 2000". • Climatex was developed as substitute for cotton which was causing environmental problems. • By substituting cotton with a new raw material the need for waste water treatment was solved. Other Fibers • Climatex is a patented mix of ramie, pure wool and polyester. • This gives it excellent seating comfort as ramie combines moisture absorption of wool with fast humidity transport of polyester. • TENCEL® was designed as an environmentally friendly cellulosic fibre to produce fabrics that maximise comfort and function. Other Fibers • It is a man-made cellulosic fibre derived from wood pulp which is harvested from managed forests. • Cellulose is the natural polymer that makes up the living cells of all vegetation. • TENCEL® is produced via an advanced 'closed loop' solvent spinning process, with minimal impact on the environment and economical use of energy and water. Other Fibers • It uses a non-toxic solvent which is continually recycled. • TENCEL® has been certified for use of the Oeko-Tex, Confidence in Textiles, mark (issued by the International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Technology). • As a natural fibre TENCEL® is breathable, absorbent and fully biodegradable. Other Fibers • LoooLo take great care in their choice of materials, the process by which fabrics are made, and even how their interior furnishings go to market. • They also use water-based inks, recycled paper stock and FSC (forestry stewardship council) approved paper products for our printed material. Other Fibers • In the future, they aim to encourage Canadian farmers towards sustainable production as well as educating consumers about the impact their choices make. • In 2003, they partnered with Rohner Textiles in Switzerland, inventors (in collaboration with William McDonough and Michael Braungart for DesignTex) of Climatex Lifecycle®; upholstery fabrics made from organic yarns and dyes free of toxic chemicals and hazardous bio-products. Other Fibers • LoooLo is the first company to use Climatex Lifecycle® yarns to create biodegradable interior furnishings. • The dyes in the Climatex Lifecycle yarns used for are free of all toxic chemicals and are still available in a full range of colours. Other Fibers • The dyes used in their yarns are processed in a ‘closed loop’ facility which means that the leftover dye baths never leave the facility and that the factory’s water purification system allows old water to be recycled and re-used. • They only use natural certified organic materials farmed both within Canada and abroad. • All products can be composted and will be reabsorbed by the earth within 1 year. Other Fibers • Terratex ® is a range of fabrics developed by Interface. • Made from 100% recyclable or renewable material. • Manufactured using increasingly sustainable processes. • Made to meet or exceed industry standards for quality and performance. • Recyclable or compostable at the end of it's useful life. Other Fibers • Teijin Polyester - In 2001, the Japanese company TEIJIN introduced a new method for recycling PET polyester. • The details of the method are not published but it includes decomposing polyester into two main components: ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid. • Dye and other contamination are then cleansed from the two components, and they are conclusively combined into PET polyester, which has the same quality as new polyester. Other Fibers • This new method, called “ECO CIRCLE”, reduces the energy demand by 84% and the CO2 emission by 77% compared to the production of polyester from mineral oil. • It requires and involves a network of companies from all over the world to sign up for and send back garments of TEIJIN polyester for recycling. Sustainable product development and production • Within the apparel industry the dialogue on sustainability has mainly focused on the production of 'green products' and the use of textile processing methods and supply chain strategies that reduce the sector's environmental footprint. But as we begin to think of sustainability in broader terms, the product development stage provides another key point in the product lifecycle that is worthy of a closer look. Sustainable product development and production • What is the vision for sustainable product development and how is technology supporting this vision? • With these questions in mind, researchers in the product development area of [TC]² are directing their investigations toward emerging systems that support the notion, 'lean is green'. Sustainable product development and production • Reducing development iterations and creating efficient transitions to manufacturing are of primary importance in this movement toward greater sustainability. • Thus, 3D product simulation, electronic communication of design and fit intent, and digital methods for printing and colouration are key components of this research initiative and the following section provides a brief highlight of related systems. Sustainable product development and production • Software tools for 3D visualisation of garments have been available for a number of years. • These systems support virtual dressing of avatars (digital humans or replicas) using 2 dimensional patterns digitised or created in a CAD system. • Thus, these applications have been developed for use by product developers rather than for consumers and are closely tied to the pattern Sustainable product development and production • Offerings are available from key vendors in the CAD area including Gerber Technologies in conjunction with Browzwear (V- Stitcher), Lectra (Modaris 3D Fit), Optitex (3D Runway Suite), Tukatech (e-fit Simulator), Assyst/Bullmer - a company recently acquired byHuman Solutions (Vidya) - and GCL Distribution (distributor of PAD System products and Haute Couture 3D). • The process for creating the 3D simulation normally involves virtually stitching 2D patterns together. Sustainable product development and production • In most cases the user can select from a set of generic avatars that can be customised in terms of body dimensions and shape to better reflect the target customer or 'fit model' attributes. • Fabric textures can be applied to the garment along with draping properties to enhance the aesthetics of the visualisation. • Once the garment has been draped, users can rotate the figure to review positioning of seams and design features such as pockets. Sustainable product development and production • A number of solutions support the ability to visualise areas of fabric stress and ease in relation to the avatar that is being dressed. • In some instances it is also possible to use drawing tools to illustrate changes to the style and add notes to the 3D rendering. • With the support of 3D viewers, this rendering can be sent to remote development and manufacturing partners to support clearer communication between parties. Sustainable product development and production • In related developments, [TC]² has engineered new technologies to support virtual fashion applications, one for use directly with 3D body scanning and another for use online or whenever a [TC]² NX-16 3D body scanner is not available. • The first technology provides the ability to rapidly produce high fidelity 3D avatars based on 3D body scan data. Sustainable product development and production • The process involves morphing a generic 3D avatar to exactly match the shape of the 3D body scan. • If the generic 3D avatar is "clothed" then the resulting output is a realistic representation of what that fashion article will look like on the person scanned. • This enables real-time virtual fashion visualisation. Sustainable product development and production • [TC]² has also developed an "Avatar Engine" for use when a body scanner is not available (such as in an online environment). • Using 3D statistics derived from thousands of human body scans obtained from the SizeUSA study, the Avatar Engine can generate a very realistic representation of a human with a relatively small number of measurements and shape inputs. • This tool can also be used for virtual fashion purposes. Sustainable product development and production • Virtual fashion applications using the Avatar Engine will be launched on the [TC]² supported web site ImageTwin in summer 2009. • Avatars created both from the NX-16 3D body scanner and the Avatar Engine can be used to support 3D product development efforts within commercial apparel CAD applications. • [TC]² is currently working with Optitex, Tukatech, Browzwear, and Lectra to further this capability. Sustainable product development and production • While the majority of virtual dressing systems rely on the 2D pattern as the basis for draping, the product 'Virtual Fashion' (Reyes Infografica) offers an alternate strategy. • This tool provides users with a series of standard garment 'moulds' that can be edited to create new styles. • Once the style has been created, fabric properties and textures can be added for aesthetic value. Sustainable product development and production • While it is not possible to translate the 3D representation into a 2D pattern for production, this technology does offer an opportunity to quickly generate garment concepts in 3D. • As a result, it could have value for product ideation, specification, and animation. • The discussion of product visualisation and communication is incomplete without mentioning the value of Shapely Shadow's FastFit360 technology. Sustainable product development and production • This system uses digital technology to capture a series of images that, when knit together, provide the ability to view the physical sample in 3D. • As with the virtual garments, these images can be shared among development and manufacturing partners to facilitate improved communication of style and fit intent. Sustainable product development and production • Shapely Shadow has also developed a communication tool, FastFit360.com as a secure environment for sharing FastFit images and comments. • As virtual dressing and related technologies become increasingly viable, there is an opportunity for product development teams to harness these capabilities for early identification of style and fit issues. Sustainable product development and production • The application of these systems may reduce sample iterations and support cycle time reduction for development. • However, as with most emerging technologies, the currently technologies offer both rewards and challenges. • Thus, [TC]²'s research team is in the process of gaining a more in-depth understanding of the capabilities of available systems. Sustainable product development and production • This activity involves developing strategies for use and identifying application issues and barriers to adoption for the apparel industry. • Many of the vendors mentioned in this section have provided technology to [TC]²'s centre in support of this ongoing research and demonstration activity. Sustainable product development and production • Fabric colouration and printing are widely identified as hot spots for improving our environmental footprint and a desire to strengthen the links between market demand, product development, and manufacturing for colouration is not new to the industry. • Over the last decade, the introduction of digital printing systems has allowed product developers to bypass the screen making process for printed sample creation. Sustainable product development and production • Digital sampling offers the opportunity to print and review designs on fabric early in the process and reduce over development, screen engraving costs, waste streams and energy consumption associated with sampling. • However, until recently, this technology was not seen by the apparel industry as a viable resource for production and it has been possible to produce digital prints that could not be replicated via the screen method. Sustainable product development and production • More recent system advances are paving the way for broader adoption and the ability to connect sampling to digital production methods. • Emerging hardware systems provide significant improvements in print speeds and colouration chemistry has advanced to support printing on most fibres and fabrics. Sustainable product development and production • The development of pigment based colourants is of particular note, as these require only heat curing for fixation, as opposed to the steam/wash requirements of reactive and acid dye colourants that first entered the market for digital printing. • Pigments have great appeal at both the product development and production stage due to ease of processing and reduced water consumption and wastewater effluent. Sustainable product development and production • Researchers at [TC]² are particularly interested in emerging technologies and chemistries that will enable the development of digitally driven, waterless colouration systems that could provide benefits for both product development and manufacturing. • The digital print team is monitoring developments and vendor offerings in this area and conducting applied research with the assistance of demonstration partners. Sustainable product development and production • Researchers are working with Yuhan-Kimberly to understand the processing requirements and colour capabilities of their nano colourant pigment chemistry. • On the fabric side the research team has worked with contacts at Cotton Incorporatedand yarn manufacturer, Clovertex (recently merged with Tuscarora Yarns) to understand the potential of cationic cotton for digital printing and its ability to offer improved efficiency for colour fixation. Sustainable product development and production • [TC]² is also working with Sawgrass Technologies and Ergosoft to install textile related systems that will further support the broad digital print initiative. • In summary, creating a more sustainable product development scenario involves identifying systems and methods that create 'leaner' processes and direct links within the supply chain. Sustainable product development and production • Technology is playing a key role in this movement and ultimately, leaner processes that incorporate 3D visualisation and communication and/or digital printing strategies will allow companies to reduce waste and respond to consumer demands more effectively. • In the end, this will have a positive impact on the bottom line.