CUCUMBER

CUCUMBER
 An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow
quickly as long as they receive consistent watering and warmth. Most
varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s
ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect
for pickling!
 There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush
cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines
shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the
crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties
grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that
grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
 Bush cucumbers, however, are nicely suited to containers and small
gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued
harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly
and ripen in about six weeks!
 If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific
varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom
‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a
few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING
WHEN TO PLANT CUCUMBERS
 Cucumber plants should be seeded or transplanted outside
in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after the last frost
date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost and
cold damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for
germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
 To get a head start, sow cucumber seeds indoors about 3
weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like
bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat
mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch
a few on top of the water heater.
CHOOSING AND PREPARING A
PLANTING SITE
 Select a site with full sun. Cucumbers need warmth and lots of light.
 Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure
before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8
inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy
and compacted.
 Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of around 7.0.
 Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy
soil by adding peat, compost, or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if
you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county
cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern
gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring. See our guide to soil
amendments.
HOW TO PLANT CUCUMBERS
 Plant seeds 1 inch deep and about 2 to 3 feet apart in a row, depending
on variety (see seed packet for details). For vines trained on a trellis,
space plants 1 foot apart.
 Cucumbers can also be planted in mounds (or “hills”) that are spaced 1 to
2 feet apart, with 2 to 3 seeds planted in each mound. Once plants reach
4 inches in height, thin them to one plant per mound.
 If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering
the hill or row with black plastic.
 After planting, mulch around the area with straw, chopped leaves, or
another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off
the ground to avoid disease.
 A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have
limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on
the moist ground. See how to build a trellis and support for vining
vegetables.
 Cover freshly planted cucumber seeds with netting or a berry basket if
you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
CARE
 HOW TO GROW CUCUMBERS
 The main care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need at
least one inch of water per week (or more, if temperatures are sky-high). Put your
finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to
water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
 Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t
encourage leaf diseases that can ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with
a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
 Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
 When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week
after fruit forms.
 When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are at least 1½ feet apart.
 If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to
side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
 If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant
food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting,
1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you
can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will
get stunted.
 If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid
damage to seedlings and vines.
 Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
HOW TO GROW CUCUMBERS
PESTS/DISEASES
Pest and Diseases
Little or No Fruit:
 If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease.
There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male.
Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time.
This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female
flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the
base that will become the fruit.)
 Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially
due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you
could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and
transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
 Remember, gynoecious hybrids require companion pollinator plants.
Pest and Diseases Cont…

 Squash bugs may attack seedlings.

 Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but
easily managed.
 Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet
(water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign
of its presence.
 Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can
cause disease.
HARVEST/STORAGE
HOW TO HARVEST CUCUMBERS
 Don’t let cucumbers get too large or they will taste bitter.
 At peak harvesting time, you should be picking cucumbers every couple of
days. They’ll grow quickly!
 Harvest regular slicing cucumbers when they about 6 to 8 inches long
(slicing varieties).
 Harvest dills at 4 to 6 inches long and pickling cucumbers at 2 inches long.
 The large burpless cucumbers can be up to 10 inches long and some types are
even larger.
 Cucumbers are best picked before their seeds become hard and are eaten
when immature. Do not let them get yellow. A cucumber is of highest quality
when it is uniformly green, firm, and crisp.
 Any cucumbers left on the vine too long will also get tough skins and lower
plant productivity.
 How to pick? Using a knife or clippers, cut the stem above the fruit. Pulling
the fruit may damage the vine.
 Keep them picked. If you don’t, as plants mature, they will stop producing.
HOW TO STORE CUCUMBERS
• Cucumbers are over 90 percent water. Store wrapped
tightly in plastic wrap to retain moisture.
• They will keep for a week to 10 days when stored
properly in the refrigerator.
The End
Thank You