PRESSING

PRESSING
• Pressing is the application of heat, moisture,
and pressure to shape, mold, or crease
fabrics, garments, or garment parts into the
geometric forms.
• Pressing may be done:
(a) During assembly to facilitate other
operations and improve quality.
(b) Final finishing process.
 PRESSING
• In-process pressing, or under pressing, is
done while a garment is under construction.
• It is used to crease, shape, and/or smooth
components for more accurate seaming.
• Sharp edges on garment components
increase accuracy in sewing.
• Finish pressing, or off-pressing, adds the final
shape to seams and garments.
 PRESSING
• Without finish pressing, even the most well-
executed seams will not have a pleasing
appearance.
• The time, temperature, pressure, and types
of mechanical devices used for pressing
depend on:
(1) Types of materials used.
(2) Shape or form that is desired in the final
garment.
(3) Degree of permanency needed.
 PRESSING
• The equipment used for pressing is designed to
control the heat, moisture, and pressure
applied during the pressing operation.
• Some equipment is designed to mold or set a
special shape into the garment.
 ELEMENTS OF PRESSING

• The three elements of pressing are:

(1) Heat
(2) Steam
(3) Pressure
• Heat is needed in most pressing processes to
soften fibers and stabilize and set the
desired shape.
 ELEMENTS OF PRESSING
• Temperatures must be selected to suit the
fibers, yarns, and fabrics used in a particular
style.
• Sources of heat include heated surfaces and
steam.
• Steam (moisture) is the fastest means of
transferring heat into the fabric.
• Heating water in a pressure boiler creates
steam.
 ELEMENTS OF PRESSING
• Higher the pressure, hotter and drier the
steam.
• Effective use of steam reduces the time for
pressing and the amount of pressure required
to shape the garment.
• Different fabrics require different amounts of
moisture and heat.
• Amount and dryness of the steam are critical
to the effectiveness of the pressing
operation.
 ELEMENTS OF PRESSING

• Excessive moisture may cause shrinkage and

color bleeding and must be used under
controlled conditions.
• Pressure is applied to alter shape and
increase the permanency of the molding or
creasing.
 ELEMENTS OF PRESSING
• Too much pressure may distort fabric
surfaces, flatten textures, and create
permanent garment and/or fabric damage.
• Pressure may be applied by a mechanical
device or by steam.
• Mechanical pressure requires a combination
of solid surfaces such a tables, bucks, or irons
to mold the garment.
 ELEMENTS OF PRESSING
• Mechanical pressure is specified by the
amount of force per unit of time.
• When a buck press or shaping device is not
used, air or steam pressure depends on the
shape of the garment.
• Air or steam is blown into the garment to
expand to its full size, while heat and/or
steam are applied.
 ELEMENTS OF PRESSING
• Moisture and heat are extracted by the use of
a vacuum return system that extracts steam
as it penetrates the fabric.
• The vacuum pulls the steam through the
fabric, thus drying and quick-cooling the
fabric to set the new shape.
 PRESSING EQUIPMENT
• In the 1890s, men’s suits were pressed with gas-
fed irons weighing as much as 20 pounds.
• Gas was fed by a rubber hose to the center of
the iron and then ignited to produce heat.
• With this system, a presser could press 10 men’s
suit in a 10-hour day.
 PRESSING EQUIPMENT
• Solid-surface pressing equipment uses a firm
surface to apply pressure, while steam and
heat mold the fabric, garment, or garment,
parts.
• Pressure may be applied through rolling
action, gliding action, or compression.
• Solid-surface pressing equipment consists of
buck presses, irons, blocks, dies, rollers,
collapsible forms, and creasing and folding
blades.
BUCK PRESSING
BUCK PRESSING
 BUCK PRESSING
• Buck presses are commonly used by
manufacturers of slacks, skirts, and jackets, as
well as by most dry-cleaning plants.
• Components of a buck press include:
(1) A lower buck and a complementary
moveable head with a linkage system.
(2) Buck padding.
(3) Steam and vacuum systems.
 BUCK PRESSING
(4) Frame and table.
(5) Gauges.
(6) Manual or automatic controls for steam,
vacuum, heat, and pressure.
• Buck presses may be used for in-process
pressing and finish pressing, depending on
the requirements of the garment.
 BUCK PRESSING
• The actual pressing devices are a lower buck
and complementary head that move in a
scissor-like pattern.
• Bucks vary in length, width, and contour.
• The lower surface, or bed buck, is usually in a
fixed, horizontal position and supports the
garment during pressing.
 BUCK PRESSING
• The head is attached to the lower buck but is
mobile.
• The head moves down to cover the material,
as it rests on the bed buck.
• Steam is released and drawn through the
garment by the vacuum system.
• When the head is released, it returns to an
open position.
 BUCK PRESSING
• Timing of steam and vacuum applications is
critical to a quality operation.
• Buck padding serves to distribute steam
evenly, reduces the impact of steam on the
fabric, and provides a soft, resilient surface
for the fabric.
• Padding protects the fabric from shine caused
by high pressure and hard surfaces.
 BUCK PRESSING
• It also acts as a baffle to prevent uneven
steam pressure or high ejection velocities,
which may cause steam spots on the fabric
being pressed.
• Some fabrics are more prone to these
problems than others.
• Adjusting the amount of padding to suit the
fabric, improves the quality of pressing.
IRON PRESSING
 IRON PRESSING
• Iron pressing is a manual molding operation
in which pressure and heat are applied with a
flat contact surface.
• The iron-pressing workstation consists of:
(1) Iron.
(2) Power line.
(3) Bed buck.
(4) Iron support system.
 IRON PRESSING
• In most cases, the pressing combination also
contains a steam and vacuum system.
• Systems may be portable or stationary.
• The primary difference between iron pressing
and buck pressing is that the iron, which
serves as the head, and the bed are not
linked.
• Irons have flexible positioning, and their
positioning is the responsibility of operators.
 IRON PRESSING
• The only pressure that is applied is what the
operator places on the iron.
• Irons vary in weight and sole plate
dimensions and characteristics depending on:
(a) Type of pressing operation.
(b) Fabric.
(c) Area to be pressed.
(d) Quality specifications of the operation.
 IRON PRESSING
• Irons often have support systems to facilitate
handling and reduce operator fatigue.
• In many cases, irons have a ceiling suspension
system and swivel action, so an operator has
only to position and/or guide the iron and
does not have to lift it.
• At the completion of the operation, the iron
is released, and it retracts into position while
the operator positions a new item.
 IRON PRESSING
• Irons are used extensively for under pressing
operations and are more versatile and mobile
than other types of pressing units.
• Bed bucks, used with iron pressing also vary
in size, and occasionally surface contour.
 IRON PRESSING
• Newer bed bucks contain multiple surfaces
and varying levels so that several parts of a
garment may be pressed without
repositioning.
• Irons are the most commonly used pressing
devices.
 BLOCK/DIE PRESSING
• Block or die pressing is a molding process that
established a product’s conformance to a
form.
• Block pressing may change the surface
characteristics and dimensions of a product.
• The fabric or product is placed on a fixed
form (die) or block before pressure, heat,
and/or steam are applied.
 BLOCK/DIE PRESSING

• Block pressing may be used by hat and glove

manufactures to shape and mold their
products.
• Another form of automated die pressing is
used to fold and crease patch pockets and
pocket flaps.
 BLOCK/DIE PRESSING
• An operator positions the component over a
die and engages the machine, and folding
blades fold and hold the edges to the
underside for creases to be set.
• This may be used in tandem with automated
sewing to stitch the pocket in place.
• Die presses may also be used to shape and
mold collars, collar stands, and cuffs.