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Defects library (Cut to Pack)

Prepared By
Sajid Rehman
Cutting
Defect type Root cause Corrective action

While cutting not follow grain


Make sure and completely
line according to the sample and
check every part of the
pattern.
pattern according to the
sample.

parts Over Lapping


Make sure to avoid this
types of errors all parts
It caused by the department of
should be align and should
carelessness
not be overlapped to each
other

Make sure during pattern


It caused by the department of
making all notches should
carelessness
be placed as per
requirement
Inside paper roll should be with cap,
Improper stacking,
over stacking should not be allowed,
missing cap of inside
roll position should be according to
paper roll.
given picture

Range bowing, bulging

Spreading adjustment should also be


Improper stick Improper stick apply on
proper while spreading the range stick
range.
should be properly done
Shade variation
in fabric to fabric It causes due to cutting
It can be controlled by serial wise
numbering not in
In same shade sequence on cut parts
cutting numbering on cut parts
number

Uneven cutting panel /


shape out

It can be controlled by providing proper


Improper cutter handling
guidelines of cutting handling
Put full concentration
It happens due to carelessness while cutting and follow
Excess cut cut line mark.

Misalign maker line


It happens due to plotter printing Before spreading the
and cutter handling marker must check it
printing.

During stitching the panels


must check panel
Discolor numbering or when you
Numbering or re-cutting issue.
required any panel re-
cutting must check shade
number.
Panel and parts uneven

It causes due to improper cutter Provide proper guidelines


handling while cutting

It can be controlled through


Wrong Size Numbering sticker It causes due to carelessness proper care while
numbering
Printing
Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Due to wrong direction of Screen should be aligned and as


print screen or misaligned per given standard, or specimen.
specimen.

Slanted print

After printing do proper curing


Due to Improper curing after
before send to washing to make it
printing process.
permanent.
Dull print

Missing word in print


Must check screen wording before
Its cause is blocked screen
printing all words should be
word or missing word during
according to buyer’s standard.
design making.
Broken print
We should first apply jell
Due to direct print in the print with changed
method

Pucker in print
Need to cured both fabric
Due to printed layer curing the layer on same place to
fabric Shrinkage mismatch with avoid puckering or bubbles
upper layer. at print area.
Embroidery
Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Upper side loose stitches Due to Upper thread


Tension loose

Need to adjust the


machine thread tension
from upper side

Loose emb inside area


Due to missing upper
tension thread with Need to adjust the bobbin
loose bobbin thread
Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Machine breakage Need to adjust machine


Bobbin thread out from mechanically
Inner side guff stitches head / Or tension is not
correct

This Problem occurred Replacement of against this


due to needle breakage / type of pkt
Position out at pocket embroidery When we change the
needle then machine
efficiency become slow
Defect type
Root cause Corrective action

Broken Embroidery Stitch

Need to adjust by
Due to thread broken
mechanically machine or
while emb or bad
used the best quality of
Thread quality or
thread and need to
bobbin thread finished
change bobbin as well
Defect type
Root cause Corrective action

Due to missing upper Need to adjust the


Slanted emb. tension thread machine tension

Due to missing upper Need to adjust the


tension thread machine thread tension
from upper side

Missing emb
Defect type Root cause Corrective action
/ defect picture Its root cause

Uneven grinding process This Problem face over size


Grinding Should be as per
given marking pattern /
grinding .
Counter Sample
Defect type Corrective action
Root cause

GMT

Wrong thread apply Need to follow approved Must be follow Counter


counter Sample / Trim sheet / Sample / Trim sheet /
Counter Sample Artwork Artwork
Defect type Root cause Corrective action
/ defect picture Its root cause

Loose patch using on machine

Due to machine Vibration


Need to adjust machine
fault patch become loose
Counter Sample before starting.
attached
Defect type Root cause Corrective action
/ defect picture Its root cause
Wrong pattern issue

Wrong Pattern

Correct Pattern Need adjustment in pattern


as per Counter Sample
Due to used wrong pattern
before start bulk production
to avoid broken stitch.
Defect type
Root cause Corrective action
/ defect picture

Due to missing upper


Need to adjust upper
tension thread
machine tension.
Missing sequence
Sewing
Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Broken stitch
The sewing tension in the
Bent needle used, incorrect
needle should be proper
timing of needle to enter loop.
adjust, perfect needle size
Incorrect sewing tension in the
for the thread size and
needle, incorrect needle size for
adjust correct timing of
thread size or used bad quality
needle at enter loop and
thread.
need to change thread.
Skip stitch

Educate the operator that


During thread cutting or they do not stitched loose
Broken stitch mishandling threads while sewing, also
careful while thread
trimming.

should be leave maximum


due to trimmed hanging thread
1 cm hanging thread in
from end of the side seam after
Broken over lock over lock operation’s to
overlock
avoid it.
Loose stitch
Lopper thread tension is
lopper adjustment problem
too loose need to increase
the tension numbers

Bobbin thread tension is


Bobbin thread tension problem too tight need to increase
the tension numbers
Loose stitch
poor joint
stitches due to joint stitch should be come each to other
multiple revers stitch with 2 or 3 stitches overlap
Poor reverse stitches stitches

Oil Stain Due to leakages in Need to check lubrication system and machine
machine should be neat and clean

Make sure the sewing machine knife and


frayed The edge of the cutting knife are sharpened and changed often ,
seam is extremely the knife’s should be adjusted properly in
frayed or rolls relationship to the stitch tongue on the needle
inside the stitch plate to obtain the proper seam width or width
bite also need to increase SPI.
Need to adjust SPI by SPI regulator and
Uneven SPI It is occurred due to use roller to make even SPI at the heavy
machine operations, also make sure to adjust
mechanically.

Make sure you are using the correct


capacity of folders and guides for the fabric
Puckering being sewn. Observe operator handling for
proper fabric movement to and through the
Tension Puckering
machine. Make sure the pieces are cut
(extreme Thread
properly in the cutting room and the proper
Tension) Machine
seam tolerances have been maintained so
Puckering (Uneven
the pieces are of equal length before
ply feeding)
seaming. If the plies have different stretch
Puckering
characteristics, position the ply with the
greatest amount of stretch are against the
feed if possible.
Educate the employee while
attaching the fusing that waist
It is happening during fusing
band should be lying without
attachment or improper folder
any crease, and use correct
Pleat folder according to the cut size.

•Regularly needle change with


proper records for selected
Needle cuts or hole Blunt needle using,
operations
Un suitable needle size using
for seams. •In Pre Production meeting
Threads size not matches
decide operations wise needle
with the fabric.
size by mechanic head
Pressure foot with sharp
edges. •Pressure foot and feed dog need
Feed dog with sharp edges.
to regular check
Feed dog not match with
fabric. Light feed dog / •As per the fabric mechanics
Heavy feed dog. Throat plate
need to change the feed dog as
size and needle size
well as pressure foot
Needle cuts or hole Operator every time seam
stitch removes and re - stitch
•Need to educate operators not to
remove and re stitch high
percentage of garments
Skip stitch

Bent needle used, incorrect


timing of needle to enter The sewing tension in the needle
loop. Incorrect sewing should be proper, perfect needle
tension in the needle, size for the thread size and
incorrect needle size for adjust correct timing of needle at
thread size, improper pattern enter loop. Use correct pattern.
program feeding.

Broken stitch

skip / broken stitch of bar Bent needle used, incorrect


The sewing tension in the needle
tack timing of needle to hook.
should be preper,perfect needle
Incorrect sewing tension in
size for the thread size and adjust
the needle, incorrect needle
correct timing of needle at hook.
size for thread size.
Bobbin should be drop
about an inch and half
before stopping.

Need to adjust bobbin tension for


bunches or knot.

Bunches of thread

Poor joint is occurred due to lose Need to adjust bobbin


Bunches of thread tension in bobbin thread thread tension

Misalign joints
Educate the operator for
It can be happened due to operator correct handling and use
handling or wrong feeding. needle feed for correct
joint.
Trained the operator to
keep even plies while
Open seam allowance/or less It is happened due to operator
attaching cut pieces and
seam allowance handling and improper
need to check the folder
adjustment in folders.
allowance to avoid frayed
in after wash garments.

Instruct the sewing


Usually caused by poor operator
operator to make sure for
handling
correct stitch
Drop stitch/slip
stitch

Usually caused by poor operator Instruct the sewing


handling operator to make sure for
correct stitch
Wavy stitch
Give the awareness to
Due to side seam and inseam sewing operator to match
seam joints are not meeting with joints from both side of
Roping each other from both sides. seams and use needle feed
to avoid it.

Pocket lining expose


Teach the sewing operator
to make correct method to
It is occurred by operator handling
do it and we can use CR top
stitch to avoid it.

Uneven guider stitch Teach the operator to


follow guider to make even
Because of operator handling distance between both sides
of the stitches
Drop stitch

Trained the operator to


Because of operator handling control sewing machine
that where they should
stop.

Uncompleted stitch

Educate the sewing


Insecure stitch operator there should be
Not done reverse stitch by operator
done reverse stitches (2 or 3
stitches )

Educate the operator they


Caused by poor operator
must follow marking and
handling and they are not follow
make sure they attach
marking
straight loop while bar
Slanted loop tacking.
Misalign bar tack Trained the operator to
It is occurred by operator follow correct placement
handling or presser foot pressure of the bar tack and also
check presser foot
pressure and maintenance
Slip bar tack

Wrong size pairing


Give proper awareness to
checker that they must
follow cutting
At the time of pairing by line
numbering( serial number,
checker
bundle number, shade
number, and size, inseam)
while paring.
Trained the operator to
follow marking or notches
while sewing and make
Due to notches /marking out by sure for proper handling
poor operator handling and can and the pieces are cut
be happened by fabric mill or properly in the cutting
Twisted leg uneven panel cut in cutting room. room also instruct to
cutting room that they do
not cut twisting/skewing
rolls

uneven top stitching edge

Need to check presser foot


Due to presser foot alignment and
machine maintenance and
pressure or poor handling of the
make sure proper operator
operator.
handling as well.
Need to add a proper
Poor operator handling
marking to make correct
Fly Shape out fly shape according to
required .

Extra allowance
Cutter must cut this part
according to given pattern
shape.
facing not cut in proper shape
Also flat lock machine
operator must follow the
edge of the part to avid it.
Need to give proper(even)
allowance for pressing in
Due to embroidery placement not
Un-even Allowance pattern, also keep
follow
embroidery placement
according to art work.

Side top HI-Low


Educate the operator that
The sewing operator is not
they must follow marking
following marking
to avoid it.
puckering at side seam
due to uneven panel
attached

Uneven width of bottom


Make sure the pieces are
opening cut properly in the cutting
These all problems are just
room and the sewing
because of uneven panels by
operator must follow all
operator handling / and excess
the marking and seam
allowance trimmed during safety
allowance accordingly to
Hiking / uneven bottom over lock or can be cutting issue
avoid them and also
as well
hem Observe operator
handling for proper fabric
movement.

wavy bottom hem


Instructed to sewing
operator that they must
follow marking and
Up and down pockets The reason is behind it improper
balancing should be even
follow marking at the operator
while making back yoke
end.
and waist band
attachment as well to
avoid it.

Uneven front pocket Instructed to sewing


opening operator that they must
The reason is behind it improper follow marking and
follow marking at the operator balancing should be even
ssend while making back yoke
and waist band attachment
as well to avoid it

The all cutting stickers


placement should be at the
Cutting stickers Wrong placement of the sticker in center of cut pieces in the
stitched marker and operator carelessness as marker to avoid it and make
well sure in sewing that they
should not stitched under
stitches
Operator must follow
Slanted back waist band 5 marking and
rise The reason for it operator , while making back rise
handling, fabric behavior uneven handling should be
cut pieces. proper, there should be
apply run stitch at the
raw body to avoid it.

inner part visible out side Belt point and back


pocket inner part will be
kept inside by proper
Poor handling of sewing operator
handling control to avoid
it

Fly shape kept slightly


Center front not straight curve with excess
Shrinkage problem
allowance in patron and
stitch accordingly
Trained to sewing
Seam joint out at crotch operator that while
Poor handling of sewing operator
inseam making operator
joints should be matched
each to other.

Joints are not allowed if


Joint stitch any case of enter loop
thread is finished so please
It is occurred by operator handling 1st remove all stitch then re-
stitch and with the same
stitch ( Lock stitch or chain
stitch)

Make sure in cutting room


Reverse fabric at the time of laying range
It can be occurred in cutting room that small cut pieces should
or operator end. be on right direction and
also be care full in sewing
room while process.
educate to operator while
zipper fly attachment that
Inner fabric visible from they should stop stitch
Need to do correct method while
front rise before finishing (1cm)and
zipper fly attachment.
also need to improve
handling at the time of top
stitch of crotch

Zipper should be attached


slightly slant in before
Due to straight stitch apply while wash garment in order to
zipper attached avoid outside zipper
visibility and standing
slider
Short over lapping /zipper
visible outside and zipper
slider in standing position
Belt point upper part (Fly
Side) must be kept
smaller (3mm) than lower
part because after making
Cross belt Need to correct handling method
its eyelet both parts will
points for belt point.
be parallel and belt point
edge will be kept slightly
slant based on fabric
stretch ability to avoid it.

folding up waist
band point edge. At the time of Eyelet
making there should be
gap 8mm from belt point
It can be controlled to do correct edge instead of 11 to 12
placement of the button hole. mm so that belt point
become straight in after
wash.
Wrong color thread used All threads should be
apply according to given
lack of coordination / buyer’s thread code
irresponsibility number for this must
follow trim card or
analyses sheet.

Uneven loop length Trained the bar tack


operator for proper
Poor handling of bar tack operator. handling and make sure all
loops attached on loop
attacher machine
It can be controlled
It causes due to carelessness through proper care while
stitching and pairing.

Wrong labels
Washing
Defect type Rot cause Corrective action

1) Shade variation must


be controlled in before
Approved wash.
Shade Band 1) Shade variation in before 2) 100% checked on
wash. shading table before
2) Lot to lot variation. delivering the goods in
finishing.
Out shade 3) Process control must
be there.

1) Scrapping operator
1) It could be scrapping must be trained.
variation. 2) Spray operator s/b
2) Used wrong solution trained.
percentage in spray process 3) Spray s/b as per given
3) Wrong Scarping paper std.
(number of paper used) 4) Right %age of solution
Less or heavy scraping
used while spray.
1) Whisker operator
must be trained and
1) P/whisker operator
skilled.
negligence.
2) Must follow the given
2) Wrong emery paper used.
standard.
3) Un even spray intensity
Less or heavy chevron 3) Designated emery
paper used.

1) Resin %age must be


use as per defined
1) Intensity or %age of resin not
parameters.
Less / Heavy bubble used properly.
2) Operator must be
whickers 2) Heat or curing process not
skilled.
worked as per requirement.
3) Proper heat and
3) Temperature and timing not
temperature given to
maintained properly
the garment after resin
application.
1) New or un skilled
1) Operator must be skilled
operator.
and well experienced.
2) Improper Airing.
2) Follow given counter for
Less or heavy Distress/Distortion 3) Lack in awareness about
intensity and shape
intensity

1) Garments must be dry right


after the hydro.
1) Before wash press or
2) After Resin process
folding
garments should directly
2) After hydro garment dry
send to oven process with
in open air
Cracking minimum air exposure.
3) Avoids crease mark or
folding in before wash.

1) Garment should be flat on


Folding /Patches ballooning.
1) Operator is unskilled.
2) We have to be very
2) Improper airing during
conscious about required air
mannequin process
pressure and instruct line QC
as well.
1) Zipper should be as best
Zipper stain 1) Zipper is sub standard.
in quality.
2) Zipper is not closed during
2) Zipper must closed
process.
before wet process.
3) Cb6 chemical not added in
3) Cb6 chemical must be
washing
added in wet process.

1) Handling must be
controlled wisely.
1) Operators negligence and 2) We have to provide
Broken stitches handling issues. awareness about whisker
area, put sizing wise
pattern and use soft pad
during process.

1) Cropping must be done in


before wash.
Thread Mark 1) Loose thread in before wash.
2) Each and every garment
2) Uncut thread in before wash.
must be passed from
thread sucker machine.
1) Use refine stones
1) Heavy stoning and
2) Fabric knot must be
unrefined stone
checked and resort before
2) Fabric knot
cutting after stoning
Damage/ floating process it is damaged and
open.

1) During Legger process area


Gum stain and machine must be clean.
2) We have to be very
1) Careless handling issue conscious during patch
attachment and resin
3) Avoid mishandling.
4) Operator must be skilled and
experienced.
We have to bind it
‘Improper binding/loose
properly as per
binding’
requirement.
Less/heavy
binding effect

Back staining Use same quality pocket


Low quality of pocket lining Or Use lining as same as GSS.
tint for base color matching Control shade variation in
garment and avoid tint.
We have to remove
these kinds of stickers
Mostly stitching doesn't remove
during mannequin
numbering stickers.
process Or inform to
Numbering stickers concern at initial stage
marks

We have to be very
conscious about required
Folding air pressure and instruct
marks ‘Improper Airing during mannequin line QC as well.
process’
‘Awareness’
We have to provide
1) This issue comes due to
proper awareness about
lacking of awareness about the
the required intensity to
required intensity.
quality checker as well
2) Improper pattern shape
as operator.

High & low whiskers

We have to remove
pattern edges before
using it.
This issue comes due to sharp edges
of pattern.

Whisker cut
marks
Pocket
lining We have to take out
pocket lining before
marks scrapping.
This issue comes due to pocket
lining.

We have to put garment


on pattern properly
before pattern whisker.
This issue comes due to D button
tack extra seam allowance.

Seam allowance
mark
Pp spray folding
We have to be very
conscious about
required air pressure
and instruct line QC as
well.
‘Improper Airing during
mannequin process’

Pp Spots
We have to wipe pp spot
from mannequin timely.

This issue comes due to PP spots on


mannequin.
Up & down
whiskers

This problem comes due to non- Use appropriate patterns to


parallel sizes in patterns fit

Pattern Pattern
Size:40/42 Size:38/40

Lycra broken
The use of ball point needle
and change it twice a day, or
bar tack should be done in
This problem arises due to the
pressure of bar tack and the use after washing clothes as per
fabric behavior and keep
of old needles, due to excessive
stress or high levels of heat in proper pressure and proper
ballooning . temperature in ballooning.
Finishing
Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Insecure button
Always use lock stitch
Machine adjustment issue.
machine to attach button to
And due to chain stitch.
secure it.

Always use original die to


attach button and make
sure it should be sustain on
Mold/ die problem
90 nuton.
Button Pulled up Also keep check on hourly
basis.

Always use original die to


attach button and make
sure it should be sustain on
Mold/ die problem
90 nuton.
Damage Button Also keep check on hourly
basis.
Always use original die to
attach button,
Based on fabric
Mold/ die problem strachbility if required
open fabric from shank wisher so we can add.
button Also keep check on hourly
basis.

Button position out


It can be controlled through
proper care while attaching
It causes due to carelessness button.
If required, add a marking
to attach this.

Always use original die to


attach button,
Mold/ die problem
Also keep check on hourly
Sharp nail (edges) basis.
It can be controlled
It causes due to carelessness through proper care while
Pocket lining fold during attaching Rivet.
rivet attachment

Missing wording
of It can be controlled through
proper care while attaching
rivet It causes due to carelessness Rivet.

Also keep check on hourly


basis.

Zipper should be proper


close / belt point tagging
It causes due to carelessness
must placed when send to
Broken zipper teeth wash to avoid zipper teeth
while blowing process.
It can be controlled
through proper care while
It causes due to carelessness
attaching patch.
reverse leather patch

unbalance L/P stitch


It can be controlled through
It causes due to carelessness proper care while attaching
patch.

Use Teflon pad while iron


Ironing issue. the garment, and avoid full
press on sensitive fabrics.
Iron mark
Need to set proper heat
and time according to
Improper heat
requirement to avoid
Insecure thermo label
insecure labels.

After printing do proper


Improper curing after printing. curing before send to
unreadable printing washing.

Pen Marking It causes due to carelessness


Avoid pen usage o
production floor and while
inspect the garment.
Unreadable barcode sticker

improper pasting of It can be controlled


barcode sticker It causes due to carelessness through proper care while
pasting barcode stickers
and carton packing.

Two different
country tag
packed in
same CTN
Wrong size packed

It can be controlled
It causes due to carelessness
through proper care while
packing.
Wrong size card
Thanks