COSMETICS

BY
DR.S.SAROJINI
PROFESSOR
SVCP
 COSMETICS
 Cosmetic word derived from greek word ‘kosmeticos’
means to adorn. Cosmetic includes any article
intended for use as a component of cosmetic.

 According to drug & cosmetic Act & Rules, 1945

COSMETIC is defined as an item intended to be

rubbed, poured, sprinkled on, introduced into or applied to
the human body or any part for cleansing, protecting,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the
appearance.
FUNCTIONS OF COSMETIC PREPARATIONS

 Maintain body health & hygiene.

 Avoid premature ageing of skin.

 Give a sense of well being.

 Improve overall looks &

CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS

 According to their use.

 According to their function.

 According to their physical

nature.
PACKAGING GENERAL PROCESS USED
IN THE MANUFACTURING

The main processes used in the

manufacturing of cosmetics are as
follows:
 Emulsification
 Mixing
 Compaction
 Moulding
 COMMON MATERIAL USED IN
COSMETICS
 Water
 Anti-oxidants
 Preservatives
 Anti-microbial agents
 Humectant
 Surfactants
 Oils, fats & waxes
 Perfumes
 Colors
Some functional raw materials (active ingredients)
Herbal or plant materials
CONTROL OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION IN
MANUFACTURING OF COSMETICS

 Control of environment of manufacturing premises

 Control of personal hygiene
 Development of an effective cleaning & sterilization
programme
 Monitoring of quality of water supply
 Observation of quality of water supply  Use of adequate
preservatives
 Monitoring of microbial quality of cosmetics during
manufacturing stages.
PRODUCTS CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETIC
PRODUCTS
For the skin:
e.g. cream, powders, lotions, deodorants,
antiperspirants,Lipsticks etc.
For the nails:
e.g. nail polish, nail polish removers etc.
For the teeth & mouth:
e.g. dentifrices & mouth washes.
For the eye:
e.g. eye cream, eye lashes, eye liners.
For the hairs:
e.g. shampoo, hair dyes, hair removers, hair tonic,
hair sprays.
CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS

COSMETICS FOR HAIR:

 Shampoos
 Depilatories
 Shaving soaps & creams
 Hair dyes
 Anti dandruff products
 Hair tonics & conditioners
 Hair wave sets, lacquers & rinses
 Hair grooming preparations
 Permanent hair waving preparations & hair
straighteners
 Hair bleaches & hair colorants
 CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETIC
PRODUCTS
COSMETICS FOR EYE:
Eye shadows
Eyebrow pencils
Mascara
Eye liners
Cosmetics for nails:
Cuticle creams, oils & removers
Nail bleaches and stain removers
 Nail lacquers & removers
Fingernail elongators
CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS

COSMETICS FOR TEETH:

 Toothpastes
 Tooth powders
 Mouthwashes

COSMETICS USED AS MISCELLANEOUS

PURPOSE:
Alcoholic fragrance solutions
Cosmetics for babies
 Toilet soaps
 Essences & perfumes  Herbal cosmetics
 ACCORDING TO THEIR FUNCTION:
 I. CURATIVE OR THERAPEUTIC :
Antiperspirants
Hair preparations

II. PROTECTIVE : Face powder

III.CORRECTIVE :Face powder

IV. DECORATIVE:

 Lipstick
 Nail polishes
 Eye lashes
ACCORDING TO THEIR PHYSICAL
NATURE:
• Aerosols: After shave lotion
• Cakes: Rouge, Compacts
• Emulsions: Vanishing cream, Cold cream, All
purpose cream
• Oils: Hair oils
• Pastes: Tooth paste
• Powders: Tooth powder, Talcum powder.
• Solutions: After shave lotion, Hand lotion
• Soaps: Shaving soap, Toilet soap
• Sticks: Lipsticks, Deodorant sticks etc….
 FACIAL COSMETICS
•Some face cosmetics used for facial purpose
for cleansing, refreshing &
nourishing effects:
1. Face powders.
2. Compact face powders
3. Rouges
4. Cold Creams.
5. Cleansing Creams
6. Vanishing Creams.
7. Moisturizing Creams.
8. Foundation Creams
 FACIAL COSMETICS

10. Lipsticks
11.Bleaches
12.Shaving Media
•a) Lather shaving creams
•b)Brushless shaving creams
•c)Shaving soaps
•d)Shaving sticks
•e) After shave products
Eye Make up preparations :
a) Eye Shadow
b) Eye brow pencils
c) Mascara
COSMETICS ON FACE

FACE POWDER

COMPACT POWDER

ROUGE
FACE POWDER
Functions of face powder:
To impart a smooth finish to the
skin
Masking minor visible
imperfections and any shine due
to moisture or grease.
Desired properties of face
powder:
1.Covering power:
It is used to conceal various
defects of the facial skin, to cover
more area. Eg. Titanium dioxides,
zinc oxide, kaolin, magnesium
2.Absorbency:
These agents eliminate shiny skin in certain facal
areas by absorbing sebaceaous secretions and
perspiration.eg. colloidal kaolin, starch,
microcrystalline cellulose, magnesium carbonate.
3.slip:
To increase the fkow and ease of spreadability
these substances are added. Talc, Magnesium
stearate
4.Adhesiveness:
To cling powder well to the face. Eg. Talc, zinc
and magnesium stearate
FORMULA
S.NO INGREDIENTS
1. Talc
2. Kaolin
3. Chalk precipitated
4. Zinc stearate
5. Zinc oxide
7. Perfume
Procedure:
All the ingredients are mixed and sieved.
colors and binders are added without carry out
damp. The given ingredients are sieved they
are hot, dried in air.
Discussion
Zinc oxide is used as an astringent,
Magnesium stearate used as a binder and
adhering agent, Magnesium carbonate is used
to remove shine of talc , Kaolin in talc is
used as an adsorbent.
 FACE POWDER (10GMS)

Composition : Kaolin, talc, zinc oxide, magnesium

carbonate..
Category : For beautification purpose
Directions: To be applied over the face to stay fresh
and fragrant, use all over post bath.
CAUTION: FOR EXTERNAL USE ONLY
Storage : stored at room temperature and
preserved in a closed container.
 COMPACT POWDERS:
Compact powders are marketed in cake form and are applied to the face
with the help of a powder puff.
These powders can be considered as face powders compacted in the
form of a cake.
Compressed cake is placed in metallic or plastic receptacle .
Required qualities of compact powder:
Smooth texture
Evenly distributed colour
Good covering power
Ease of application
Perfect blending on skin
Good adhesiveness
Ease of removal without residual stain
Well formed cake which will not flake, crack or be too hard get
damaged during transportation or use.
 
FORMULATION:
Basically, all those raw materials which are used in
loose powder are used in compact powder.In
addition binders are used to form a cake of
desirable quality. There are five basic types of
binders
-dry binders eg; zinc stearate, magnesium
stearate
-oil binders eg. Lanolin, isopropyl myristate,
mineral oil
-water soluble binders. Eg, gum tragacanth,
gum karaya etc
ROUGE
Rouge is a cosmetic preparation which is used
to simulate the rosy freshness of young and
healthy cheeks or apply colour to cheeks.
Rouges are of four types
1. liquid rouge
2.cream rouge
3.compact cake rouge (dry rouge)
4.wax based rouge
Compact rouge contains a pigmented powder
with a binder which helps in compacting the
Desired qualities of a compact rouge:
Smooth texture
Evenly distributed colour
Good covering power
Ease of application
Perfect blending on skin
Good adhesiveness
Ease of removal without residual stain
Well formed cake which will not flake, crack or be too hard

FORMULATION:
Basically, all those raw materials which are used in loose
powder are used in compact rouge. .In addition, inorganic
oxides, certified colorants perfume and binders are used to
form a cake of desirable quality.
Cold cream is an emulsion,
which when applied on the
skin a cooling effect is
produced due to slow
evaporation of water present
in the emulsion. This are
generally prepared by
emulsification of oil and
water.
In olden days animal fat &
vegetable oils was used but
vegetable oils have rancid
 GENERAL METHOD OF PREPARATION OF
CREAM:

Formula:

Bees wax 5.0g

liquid paraffin 45.0g
White soft paraffin 10.0g
Hard paraffin 7.0g
Borax 0.2g
Water 32.8ml
Perfumes & Preservative
Q.S.
1)Melt the wax, white soft paraffin, hard
paraffin on a water bath.
2) Add liquid paraffin & heat the mixture to
70 C.
3)Dissolve the borax in water at 75 C &
add to melted fats with continuous
stirring.
4) Cool with stirring to 40 C.
5.Add the required quantity of
preservative & perfumes .
6. Transfer the cream to the container
while hot
 CLEANSING CREAMS
Cleansing creams remove facial
make up and keeps skin healthy by
removing grime, sebum and other
secretions, dead cells. This are
basically cold creams containing
detergent action.
In case of o/w type of cleansing
cream tweens are used along with
detergent to remove dirt.
Pepsin is added to make the facial
skin smooth.
TYPES OF CLEANSING CREAMS:
LIQUEFYING CLEANSING CREAMS
Emulsified creams of o/w type
Emulsified creams of w/o type
Liquefying cleansing creams:
In that contains simple mixture of mineral oil or synthetic
fatty materials
Rx,
Isopropyl myristate 25 gm
Liq. Paraffin 25 gm
White soft paraffin 30 gm
Paraffin wax 20 gm
Method: Melt & mix all the ingredients at 65 C, cool with
stirring & after over solidifying transfer into suitable
 2.Emulsified creams of o/w type
Rx,
Beeswax 12 gm
Liq.Paraffin 53 gm
Bentonite 0.7 gm
Borax 0.7 gm
Water 33.2 ml
Isopropyl alcohol 0.4 ml
Method:
Triturate bentonite, Isopropyl alcohol & Liq.Paraffin.
Heat beeswax at 750 C & dissolve borax with water at
750 C & slowly mix with oil phase with stirring until
temp. comes down at 400 to 450 C. & then transfer into
final container
 Emulsified creams of w/o type
Rx,
Liq. Paraffin 50 gm
Paraffin wax 5 gm
Bentonite 0.7 gm
Water 43.9 ml
Isopropyl alcohol 0.4 ml
Method: Triturate bentonite & Isopropyl alcohol &
some part of liq.paraffin to disperse bentonite. Paraffin
wax & remaining part of liq. Paraffin heated at 75C
then formed gel. Heat the water to 70 C & mix slowly
with oil phase with stirring until cream is obtained then
transfer into suitable container.
 VANISHING CREAMS
These are the O/W emulsion
which when applied to the skin
leave an almost invisible layer on
it hence; this are called as
vanishing cream. The main
ingredient used is stearic acid
which gives pearly white shinning
appearance to the cream.
These cream can be quickly
washed off because its O/W type.
In that, oil phase which melts at
above body temperature so, it
provides an invisible & non greasy
layer & produce very attractive
Stearic acid 18.0g
Glycerin 3.0g
lanolin 2.0g
Triethanolamine 1.0g
Water 80.0m
Preservative 1.0g
Perfumes Q.S.
Method: - Melt stearic acid & lanolin.
Then, mix water, glycerin & triethalonamine & warm
to same temperature as that of melted stearic acid &
lanolin.
Mix the to with continuous stirring & add perfume &
preservative.
Mix them thoroughly in order to obtained a uniform
product.
 FOUNDATION CREAMS
These are applied to face after
cleansing to provide a smooth
emollient base for facial makeup.
Act as skin protective and prevent
damage caused by sun or wind
Type: i)Mostly available in o/w
type & ii) W/O for dry skin
In foundation cream contains
fatty materials, Stearic acid,
glycerin, surfactants
preservative & Perfumes.
Fatty materials like bees wax,
carnuba wax, lanoline they act
Stearic acid 18.0g
pot hydroxide 0.52g
sodium hydroxide 0.18g
Cetyl alcohol 0 .50ml
Glycerin 18.0ml
Water 62.2ml
Preservative and
Perfumes Q.S.
Method: mix stearic acid & cetyl alcohol & heat at 75C
till homogenous mass is produced. Dissolve pot. & sodium
hydroxide in water & add glycerin. Heat the mixture at
75C. Then add this mixture to stearic acid solution & stir
until temper. falls at 40C then add perfume & allow to
stand. Then, transfer into suitable container
These are designated to be left on
skin for several hours. These creams
are applied at night, the layer of
cream prevent rate of transepidermal
water loss thus having moisturising
effect. It keeps the skin surface
smooth by its lubrication action.
These creams contain mineral oil,
vegetable oil, lipophilic
substances, humectant (glycerin,
sorbitol, propylene glycol)and water.
DENTRIFICES (Tooth paste and tooth powder)

Definition:
Dentrifices are preparations intended for use with or
without a tooth brush for the purpose of cleaning,
abrasion and polishing of teeth the accessible surface of
the teeth and are considered to help the mechanical
cleaning of the tooth brush.
TYPES:
Dentrifices are of two types:
The cleansing dentrifices
The therapeutic dentrifices
The cleansing dentrifices are those which
through their cleansing ability, clean the
accessible surface of the teeth, and thus indirectly
reduce the incidence of tooth decay, maintain
gingival health and bring about a reduction in
mouth odours.
The therapeutic dentrifices are those which
fulfill the above functions of cleansing ability
along with bactericidal, bacteriostatic, enzyme
inhibiting and neutralizing qualities or ability to
modify the tooth surface, reduce the incidence of
dental caries or aid in the control of periodontal
diseases
 Tooth paste
 
 
 Tooth Powders
 
 
 Liquid Dentrifices
FUNCTIONS:
The functions of a dentrifice can be broadly responsible
for

 Tooth cleansing
 Removal of dental plaque
 Inhibition of formation of calculus
 Tooth root polishing
 Reduction of incidence of Dental caries
 Reduction of periodontal disease
 Reduction of mouth odours.
REQUIREMENTS:
The basic requirements of a dentrifice are
as follows:
1.It should be efficient in removal of food
debris, plaque and foreign matter from the
teeth.
2.It should give fresh and clean sensation
3. It should be stable during storage
4. It should not be expensive
5. It should satisfy all the prophylactic claims
which are made.
DENTRIFICE FORMULATIONS:
Dentrifices can be in the form of paste,powder or
liquid, but paste and powders are widely used.The
functional ingredients of a dentrifice include
1.Abrasives
2.Detergent
3.Humectant
4.gelling agent
5.Flavouring agent
6.Anticorrosive
7.Preservatives
8.colours
9.Active ingredients
1.ABRASIVES:
Abrasives or frictating agents due to friction remove the
debris from the tooth surface without damaging it.The
commonly used abrasives are precipitated calcium
carbonate, dicalcium phosphate dihydrate, tribasic calcium
phosphate, light magnesium carbonate, sodium
metaphosphates, sodium aluminium silicate and dehydrate
silica gel.
2.DETERGENTS:
They lower the surface tension and loosen surface deposits
to suspend the debris which the toothbrush removes from
it
They should have good foaming properties. Examples are
sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium ricinoleate, diethyl sodium
sulphosuccinate.
3.HUMECTANTS :
This is used to prevent drying of tooth pastes and
to give plasticity to tooth paste
.Eg. glycerine, sorbitol 70% solution and propylene
glycol
4.GELLING AGENTS/ BINDING AGENTS:
This is included in tooth paste to maintain the
stability and to improve the and maintain their
consistency.
Eg. Gum tragacanth, gum agar, sodium alginate
methyl cellulose , Sodium carboxy methyl
cellulose
 
5.&6: FLAVOURING AND
SWEETENING AGENTS:
This imparts suitable flavour and taste to the
final product.
Eg. Spearmint, peppermint,clove,eucalyptus
and aniseed. Mentho gives cooling effect.
7. PRESERVATIVES:
Gelling agents may be responsible for
microbial growth
 
 
FORMULA

S.NO INGREDIENTS

1. Calcium carbonate bactericidal and bacteriostatic effect

2. Sodium lauryl sulphate detergent (synthe tic)

3. Glycerine humectants

4. Gum tragacanth binder

5. Peppermint oil flavor

6. Distilled water q.s

PROCEDURE:
1. T he gum tragacanth mucilage wetted with
glycerine and water mixture to get swelled and to
form a homogenous gel.
4. Abrasives (calcium carbonate) are addedslowly
with agitation to the previous mixture until a
uniform paste is formed.
5. To this flavours and soaps were
incorporated towards the end.
Large scale method of preparation: Stainless
steel vessels and equipments like jacketed
planetary mixer are employed for the preparation.
EVALUATION
1. Foam character
Test especially required for foam studies.
1gm of product mixed with 50ml of water taken in
measuring cylinder and shaken, foam thus formed
was studied for natural stability and washability
2. PH
PH of the dispersing 10% of product was
determined by PH meter. The PH shall be between
5.5 ands 10.5
3. Particle size
Particle size was estimated using optical microscope.
4.Spreadability:
Shall not be more than 8cm for one gram of paste
when tested.
5.Lead content – less than 20ppm
6. Arsenic content – less than 2ppm
7. Total viable bacterial count :shall be less than
1000cfu/gram
8. Fluoride content shall be a maximum of 1000 ppm for
fluorinated tooth paste and 50 ppm for non-fluorinated
tooth paste.
TOOTH POWDERS
Types
Tooth powders are classified into two types (i)
Foaming and (ii) Non-Foaming.
The tooth powder shall be smooth, uniform,
free flowing fine powder and free from foreign
matter. It shall be free from hard abrasive
materials. Tooth powder in granular or coarse
powder form is also marketed, e.g., Gopal tooth
powder and Nanjangoodu tooth powder.
Ingredients
Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate
Precipitated calcium carbonate
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Flavours and sweetners
Method of Preparation
All the powder ingredients are size reduced to fine
powder and sifted through 150 mesh s.s. sieve and charged
to the mixer (Double cone, V-blender). Liquid components
are added as such on top of powders in the blenders or in
some cases triturated with little of powders and then added
to the blender. Mixers run for 2 to 4 hours and the tooth
powder removed in polythene bags in drums and closed
tightly. Finally distributed in smaller packs, using filling
machine, sealed and labelled for sale.
EVALUATION:
(i) Fineness test
Particles retained on 150 mesh and 75
mesh sieve shall be maximum of 0.5 percent
and 2.5 percent.
(ii) Moisture and volatile matter –
Maximum of 5%.
NOTE: Other evaluation test are similar to
tooth paste
These are preparations are not popular but they are used for cleansing
purpose.
They are aqu. Or hydro alcoholic solutions
Formula:
Hard soap 6 gm
Saccharin 0.2 gm
Amaranth solution 1 ml
Cinnamon oil 0.5 ml
Peppermint oil 0.5 ml
Clove oil 1 ml
Alcohol 75 ml
P.W 100 ml

Method: soap + saccharin + volatile oil in alcohol.Then

add amaranth solution & water to make up the volume.
LIPSTICK:
LIPSTICK:
DEF:
Lipsticks are semisolid preparations moulded
into sticks, and are essentially dispersions of
colouring matter in a base consisting of a suitable
blend of oils, fats and waxes.
It is used to
Impart an attractive colour
Narrow bad tempered lips may be widened
Broad lips made to to appear narrow
Emollient action
Decrease in cracked and chapped lips.
 
REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS:
1..Should have an attractive appearance, smooth
surface of uniform colour,
2. Free from defects such as pinholes, should be
retained during shelf-life,
3. Should not exudes oil, develop a bloom,
flake,cake, harden ,soften,crumble nor become
brittle over the range of temperatures.
4. Should be safe both dermatologically and if
ingested.
5. Should be easy to apply and should give a
stable colour.
INGREDIENTS OF LIPSTICK:
1.Colouring materials
2.Main bases and other bases
3. Oils
4.Others
1.COLOURING MATERIALS:
Colour is imparted to the lips in two ways
By staining the skin, requires dye in solution,
capable of penetrating the outer surface of the lips
By covering the lips with a coloured layer which
hide any surface roughness and give a smooth
appearance.
Eg. Insoluble dyes and pigments
Staining dyes:
Eg. Water soluble eosin and other halogenated
derivatices of fluorescin-tetrabromo fluorescein.
Pigments – titanium dioxide, calcium lakes, barium
lakes
2.MAIN BASES:
a)Beeswax binds oils and high melting point,
b).carnauba wax gives lustre to the product
c) Hard paraffin for stiffness,
d)ozokerite(mineral product)
e) cetyl alcohol for their emollient action on the
lips
Other bases: cocoa butter, Lanolin and
petroleum jelly , liquid paraffin, lecithin etc.
3.OILS:
Castor oil, Olive oil and almond oil used acts as
a plasticizing agent.
FORMULA
S.N INGREDIENTS For 100g For 20g
O

1. Hard paraffin 10g 2g

2. Beeswax 15g 3g
3. Lanolin 5g 1g
4. Cetyl alcohol 5g 1g
5. Castor oil 65g 13g
6. Eosin 1% 0.2%
7. Perfume 1% 0.2%
Procedure
The bases are melted first, then the
acid eosin is dissolved in alcohol with
the help of gentle heat.
The base is then added to the eosine
and the pigments are added.
Finally lipsticks are poured in
respective moulds.
 USES OF INGREDIENTS
Bee wax, hard paraffin  Base

Lanolin  Base to increase stickiness

during application

Cetyl alcohol  velvety application texture

Eosine  coloring agent

Hard paraffin  surface gloss

EVALUATION
1.Breaking point ( value minimum 20c)
To carry out this test lipstick is held
horizontally in a socket fitting over about
half inch of its base and weight is applied at
measured distance from the edge of support.
The weight is increased by applying
predetermined increment of weight for
every 30 seconds until the lipsticks break
2.Texture:
The prepared lipstick is checked for the
texture test
3.Colour match test:
The prepared lipstick was subjected for
color match test, also matched on the skin
4.Stability
At 40° C in hot air oven for half an hour.
5.Particle size analysis:
Particles are counted under the
microscope and mean particle size is
calculated.- Maximum 40 microns
6.Softening point- minimum 55 ₒC
7.Arsenic content – Less than 2ppm
8..Heavy metal – Less than 20 ppm
9. Microbiological examination:
Not more than 100 micro-organisms
per gram.
LIPSALVE: (2 marks)
It is a preparation used on lips
not for decoration but for
protection against exposure to
cold, in winter, in extreme heat
conditions and in very dry
humid climates.
PREPARATIONS OF EYE MAKE-UP

Eye shadow

Eyebrow pencil

Mascara
 EYE SHADOW
 These are the preparations which
produce attractive moist looking
background of color to the eyes.
 They Applied to the eye lids.
 They are Available in various
shades
Types:

•Eye shadow creams

•Eye shadow stick

•Powder pressed eye shadow

 EYEBROW PENCILS

 These are hard pencils which are

used for darkening the eye
brows. Contains mainly black
iron oxide.
 Manufactured by pencil
manufacturers.
 Available in black and brown
color.
 In that contain a high proportion
of waxes to make them hard, so
that they can be moulded as a
thin stick & sharpened to a
 MASCARA
Mascara is a black pigmented
preparation applied to eye lashes or
eyebrows to beautify eyes. It is Used
to darken eyelashes or eyebrows and
increase their length. It is applied with
brush.
Types:
 Cake Mascara: melted wax

Cream Mascara: vanishing
cream base used
 Liquid Mascara: alcoholic
solu. With resin in which
carbon black is suspended.
 BLEACHES
These are agents which lighten
the skin colour.
The lightening of the skin colour
may be reducing pigmentation,
decolorise the melanin present or
prevent new melanine from being
formed.
They also protect the skin from
UV radiations.
The bleach contain sun screening
agent which prevent reoxidation
by UV light.
In the bleaches contain skin lighting
agents which are of following types
Opaque covering agents: e.g. titanium
dioxide, zinc oxide, talc, kaolin.
Oxidising agents: e.g. hydrogen peroxide,
sodium hydrochloride solution
Mercury compounds: e.g. red mercury
oxide
Some natural lighting materials are
butter milk, lemon juice, crushed
strawberries etc
They are used to remove hair,
particularly from men’s faces.
Some women's are also used for
removal of hairs from legs, under
arms.
Shaving media are 3 types:
 
Pre-shave products: for softening
of beard
 
Shaving products: shaving cream,
leather shaving cream
 
After- shave products: to refresh
Antiperspirants are play to
inhibit the flow of perspiration.
Deodorants are play to inhibit
the formation of bad odour in
perspiration by suppressing the
growth of bacteria or mask the
unpleasant odour.
Aluminium carbohydrate
shows both qualities.
 Antiperspirants mechanism of action
Antiperspirants contain substance having astringent
action & on reacting with skin proteins it causes
coagulation which is accompanied by a swelling at the
opening of sweat glands. This helps in blocking the
openings of sweat glands. Thus reduce the flow of
sweat.

Ideal properties:
Non-toxic
Non-irritant
It should have pH between 4 to 4.5.
It should have no effect on fabrics.
It should have astringent propertys
SHAMPOOS
Shanpoos can be defined as solid,liquid or s
emi-liquid preparations meant for cleansing
action to remove soil and dust from hair
without affecting natural gloss of hair.
PROPERTIES OF SHAMPOOS:
1.It should get easily removed by rinsing
2.It should be capable of removing soil,
excessive sebum and residues of setting
lotions,
3, It should provide a pleasant fragrance to
the hair.
4.It should leave the hair in soft and lustrous
condition.
5.Shampoo should impart a sufficient degree
of foam to satisfy the user.
6.It should be non-toxic and non-irritant.
TYPES OF SHAMPOO:
1.clear liquid shampoo
2.Liquid cream shampoo
3.solid cream shampoo
4.Oil shampoo
5.Powder shampoo
6.aerosol shampoo
7.D ry shampoo
8. Conditioning shampoo
9.Baby shampoo
10.Anti-dandruff and
medicated shampoo.
INGREDIENTS OF SHAMPOOS:
I.Primary surfactant :
Anionic surfactants are widely used as
detergents in shampoo. Eg. Sodium lauryl
sulphate, triethamine dodecyl benzene
sulphonate.
Detergents impart foaming and cleansing
action.
Cationic surfactants: Have low foaming and
cleansing action compared to anionics. Eg:
cetylpyridium salts.
2. Auxillary surfactants:
Non-ionic surfactants are used in combination
3. Additives:
a) Conditioners:Helps in lubricating hair and improves
handling properties of hair fibre. Eg: Lanolin and its
derivatives, glycerol and propylene glycol.
b) Viscosity modifiers:eg. Karaya gum, tragacanth,
carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and
carboxyvinyl polymers.
c) Opacifying and clarifying agents: eg. Zinc oxide and
titanium dioxide
d)Preservatives: to preserve the shampoo against bacteria
or mould contamination. Eg; butylated hydroxyl
benzoate, formaldehyde and quaternary ammonium
surfactants.
e) sequestering agents: These are required to prevent the
formation and deposition of calcium and magnesium soaps
FORMULATION OF SHAMPOO:
Principle
The shampoo cleanses the hair of
accumulated sebum , scalp debris and
residuals of hair grooming preparation by
invoving a number of complex, physical
phenomenon like wetting, foaming,
emulsifying and peptization. It acts by
lowering the interfacial tension to such an
extent that it always allows the dirt/ oil
particles to be displaced by the detergent
solution.
FORMULA:

S.NO INGREDIENTS For 100 gms For 50gms

1. Sodium lauryl sulphate 40gm 20g
2. Coconut oil 0.6g 0.3g
3. Anhydrous lanolin 0.6g 0.3g
4. Sodium chloride 1.2g 0.6g
5. Stearic acid 4g 2g
6. Sodium hydroxide 2.12g 1.6g
7. Preservative q.s q.s
8. colour q.s q.s
9. Perfume q.s q.s
10. Water 100ml 50ml
Procedure
Sodium lauryl sulphate ( detergent and surf actant agent) coconut
oil, anhydrous lanolin and sodium, chloride was dissolved in water,
sodium hydroxide is dissolved in water and added to the above and
heated at 70°. Stearic acid was melted separately and added to the
above at the same temperature with agitation cool the mixture add
perfume, color, preservatives and finally the volume was adjusted to
required quantity with distilled water

ANTIDANDRUFF SHAMPOO:
The major causes of dandruff are:
Dysfunction of the scalp
Microbial attack
Combination of above two
They can be controlled by using shampoo, it should be allowed to
remain in the hair half & hour & then washed with warm water &
after proper drying of hair, it should be massaged to increase the
blood circulation of the scalp
Antidandruff
Preparations
Formula:
Selenium disulphide
2.5 gm
Stabilizer 5 gm
Surfactant 17.5 gm
Water 75ml
Evaluation of Shampoo
The shampoo can be evaluated for
1. care of spreading
2. Lathering power
3. Efficient soil removal
4. Ease of rinsing
5. Case of combining wet hair, luster
of hair, speed of drying and setting of
dry hair
6. Safety
 HAIR DRESSINGS
•Hair dressings are mainly used for dry hairs for providing
extra gloss & also use for natural hairs.
•The main purpose is to apply a thin film of oil to maintain a
natural looking gloss without any appearance of oiliness.
•Qualities or Properties:
•Non-toxic

•Provide gloss & grooming action

•Provides anti-dandruff & wetting action

•Provides some degree of hair conditioning

No.of preparations used for
hair for Men & Women's are
as follows

Hair Conditioners
Hair tonics
Brilliantines
Hair waving & hair straightening
preparations

Hair conditioners: they reduce

the fluffiness & smoothness the
hair shaft & also provides smooth
texture to hairs which are
damaged by over shampooing,
bleaching & dyeing.
Hair tonics: they are applied to the hair for
curing baldness & also used for prevent or
cure the dandruff. In that contains,
rubefacient, an antiseptic & sebaceous gland
stimulant. They rubbed in night & wash on
next day using shampoos.

Brilliantines: they are mainly used for men

providing glossiness to hairs & keeping the
hair in place.
They are 2 types
Liquid brilliantines
Liquid brilliantines: in that type
contain oil with deodorised
agents i.e.kerosene or isopropyl
myristate. An alcoholic
brilliantines contains oil with
alcohol. It provides freshness &
stimulate the skin
e.g. castor oil, almond oil etc.
Solid brilliantines: in that
brilliantines are thicker by
adding waxes such as bees wax,
carnuba wax, paraffin wax etc.
Aluminium tristearate used as a
gelling agent for transparent.
 Hair waving & Hair straightening Preparations
These preparations used for men & women for their hair
style.
Some peoples having interesting to make straight hair from
curly hairs & some, interested to make curly hairs from
straight hairs

The curling of hairs required some devices like brush, hot

air blower & combs & these produce curly hairs produce
by this method is temporary.
Now a days hair waving liquids are presents in the markets.

Hair waving liquids consisting of thick colloidal solutions

of gum tragacanth, gum acacia, gelatin, sodium carbonate
or borax, glycerin & alcohol etc
Formula:
Gum tragacanth 1.2 gm
Alcohol 10.05 ml
Glycerin 5.0 ml
Sodium benzoate 0.5 gm
Water 83.8 ml
Perfume q.s
Method:
sodium benzoate + warm water +tragacanth to form
mucilage. Then, alcohol + perfume & add into above
solution & then add glycerin & stir continuously.
After application on the hair wash with water after
some time & apply oil. In that oil contains waxes,
perfume, lanolin & conditioners.
Hair dyes are used either to hide or mask the grey
hair or to change the colour of the hair.
Hair dyes are marketed in powder,liquid or
emulsion forms. The powder form is made into
aqueous solution and applied whereas the other two
forms are either directly applied or diluted before
application.
PROPERTIES:
 It should be non-injurious to the hair shaft,
but shall colour the hair without impairing the
natural texture and gloss.
TYPES OF HAIR DYE:
Hair dyes may be grouped as powders, liquids creams, semi liquids
and emulsions depending on the physical characteristics or they may
be temperory,semi-temperory and permanent colorants depending
upon their capability to retain the color top hairs.
 
TEMPERORY HAIR DYE ;
This impart colour to the hairs and washed off in the first application
of soap or shampoo used for cleaning. Individual can go on changing
the color of the hair.
SEMI-TEMPERORY:
This retains the color of hair upto six cleaning process by soap or
shampoo, though the colour is removed gradually each time
uniformly and becomes lighter.
PERMANENT HAIR DYE:
This remains for a very long time even with the use of soap or
shampoos.It consists of vegetable origin or salts of heavy metals and
coloring is effected usually by a chemical process.
CLASSES OF HAIR DYES:
1. Vegetable dyes
2. Metallic dyes
3. Synthetic organic dyes.

Vegetable Dyes:
Vegetable dyes are Henna and Chamomile.
Examples:
Henna leaf powder
Tulsi leaf power
Amla, dried full fruit powder
Myrobalan
The powder hair dye shall be a fine, free flowing powder without
any gritty particles.
Metallic Dyes:
As per Drugs and Cosmetics Rules. Dyes with Bismuth,
Silver,Copper, Nickel and Cobalt salts only are to be manufactured.
Synthetic Organic Dyes:
Synthetic organic chemicals like p-phenylene diamine (PPD),
P-tolulenediamine (PTD) are used as permanent dyes and gives
good result. There are two types Balck and Brown.

LABEL:
“Warning” shall not be used for dyeing eyelashes or eyebrows.
Instruction for use of the dye.
Shade of the dye.
“Declaration : Srylamine (PPD) not more than 3% after dilution
made as per instructions for use.”
List of critical ingredients present.
Expiry date as – For best results use before ……. Month and
HAIR REMOVERS
HAIR REMOVERS:
Unwanted hair can be removed by
1.Epilation
2.Electrolysis
3.Chemical depilation
EPILATION:
It involves uprooting of intact hair which is very
painful and may cause serious skin damage. It can bed
done by plucking, electrolysis etc.It contains mineral
oil, rosin beeswax, cooling agent, local anaesthetic
and antibacterial
 HAIR REMOVERS
2.ELECTROLYSIS:
It involves inserting a needle into the hair follicle
and hair root is completely destructed by means of
weak DC current. It is advantageous as it removes
the hair permanently.
3.CHEMICAL DEPILATION /DEPILATION
(U.Q - 5 marks )
It involves chemical breakdown of the hair without
injury toi the skin.An ideal delilatory should
remove the hair in about one minute without
irritation and preparation should be odourless.
It should have the following properties:
It should be non-toxic and non-irritant to the skin.
It should be economical,stable and easy to apply.
It should be capable of removing hair in 4-6 minutes.
It should not leave any stains.

Depilatories are available in powder,lotion,cream and paste forms.

The chemicals used in the preparation of depilatory are sulphides,
stannites, substituted mercaptans which are used along with
alkaline reacting materials and thioglycollates.
FORMULA:
Calcium thioglycollate
Calcium hydroxide
Calcium carbonate precipated
Cetyl alcohol
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Sodium silicate solution
Water perfume q.s