Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Javier Romero-Requejo Ana Gonzalez de Castro Eugenio Sanjun Hinna Mohammad Stefan Mairegger Petra Mitterruztner
Index
1.
2.
3. 4. 5. 6.
Introduction Distribution practices and fashion retailing Jeanswear Category Background Calvin Klein Inc. And Mr. Calvin Klein Warnaco Group Inc. And Ms. Linda Wachner Details concerning the relationship
Introduction
&
Speciality Stores
Warehouse Clubs
Department stores
Superior product placement High consumer service High Quality products Premium Price Broad Assortment Shop in Shops Concept
Speciality shops
Rapid growth in the end of the 1990s Smaller Scale Trend right merchandise Target segment of costumers One brand shops with high services
Sold of brand name merchandise at lower prices Limited investments in sales associates, real estate, inventory, display and lighting Out of season branded fashion and split lines Great discounts to speciality shops
Warehouse Clubs
Started in 1976, clubs stores grew very fast during 1980s and 1990s
Wide Variety of merchandise, in which consumers are required to buy large, wholesale quantities. High quality, low-priced, branded products Stores are spare and service minimal (No frills concept) In and Out items
1853 Levis Strauss introduced the first jeans Durable pants for gold miners American west image
Jeans evolved from utilitarian clothing to symbols of youthful rebellion Jeans became part of a unisex and basic look
Vanderbilt created a line of tightfitting, sexy jeans for woman Jeans became fashion
Early 90s jeans returned to basics cycle 1995 innovative silhouettes and washes became popular Many new brands were launched
1999 cK Calvin Klein had 27 % market share in womans department store jeanswear Department store status brand became stuck Discounters gained market share
In the 1970s the licensing took off as a low risk way to grow brands Distribution of fragrances, cosmetics, swimwear, footwear, furniture, cigarettes Licensing grew due to growth pressure Development of so-called diffusion lines- that made the designer accessible to the middle market
Licensing: designer received a percentage of wholesale sales volume in exchange for brand access rights. The degree of control and time horizons varied. Notable licensees
By the late 1990s fashion designers were reassessing licensing as a brand-building and revenue-generating tool
Many designers cancelled most of the companies licensed products Still licensing advocates remain
19.11.1942, Bronx (NY) New Yorks High School of Art and Design
Calvin Klein Inc.: 1968 with Barry K. Schwartz Starting capital: 10 000$
1977/82 jeanswear and underwear line Fragrances and other categories; over 40 Image through taboo-breaking and norm questioning ads
2000
Originally named Warner Brothers 1960 more fashionable styles for upscale clientele, sportwear, hosiery and sweaters. 1986 hostile leveraged buyout by private group led by LINDA WACHNER. Company held licences such as:
Founded in 1874
Joined Marketing department at Warnaco She was recluited from Warnaco to mastermind Maxfactor. When she heard that Warnacos CEO was planning to take his company private, she started a bidding war for the firm. She prevailed and purchased Warnaco in 1986 for $46,50 a share, or $550 million
She focus the company on its two mainstays: intimate apparel and menswear. The group jettisoned Dior which commanded a significant licensing fee. The companys debt was cut by 40% and doubled cash flow Wachner took Warnaco public in October 1991. New license deal with Fruit of the Loom. One of Wachners most notable business successes involved cK Calvin Klein underwear line:
It was at the time of the 400 license and trademark 300 acquisition. 200 Wachner moved to expand distribution across geographic 100 0 and channel bounds. (Asia, United States) She included the J.C Penneys chain and played in the demise of the Halston brand in 1983.
350
55
1994
1999
Sales ($ million)
Business model was replicated with other brands (Oscar de la Renta, Speedo, Ralph Lauren, etc), which were grown from niche contenders to mass-market leadership positions through channel-expansion strategis and fashion flair. Wachners strategy in handling the Hathaway mens dress shirt brand wasnt successul because of limited advertising support, expanded distribution and general declines in product quality stremming from the use of cheaper fabric blends and slimmer fits.
Hathaway brand was sold in 1996 Warnacos licensing agreement terminated in 1994
Net Revenues 2,114.2 MM 1,950.3 MM 1,435.7 MM 1,963.8 MM 916.2 MM 788.8 MM 703,8 MM 625.1 MM 562.5 MM 548,1 MM
518.1 MM
425.0 MM
1986
In 1996 Designer Holdings sold the license The jeanswear license created a growing business and mutual interdependency situation
800 600 400 700
472
200
0 1996 1999
License Agreement
$-Attention of point of sale
Ck allowed the sale of jeans to Costco for value of 32,5 milllion $ in order to output the excess from previous seasons After a 40 million $ investment improving cK stores total profits amounted from 400 to 700 millions $
*Ck is throwing stones at Warnaco *Distract the focus from highly deteriorated business state of Ck
Klein, himself appeared on CNNs Larry King Live shortly after the suit was filed and stated these practices have been taking place since Warnaco acquired the license three years prior.
The suit was settled in 2001 and sealed with a "fashionista air kisson the steps in front of a New York courthouse.
THANK YOU!