L|ements of text||es

Welcome Lo Lhe amazlng world of fabrlcs

WWhaL are texti/es???
WlL deals wlLh fabrlcs yarns and flbers
WInter|ac|ng of warp and weft
WAny product wh|ch |s made from f|bers and the name app||ed to wovens kn|ts non
woven's and any other spec|a| fabr|c construct|on ||ke fe|t|ng knott|ng et a|
Wlabrlcs are a dellghL Lo Lhe senses
W1hey are fluld sLlff crlsp rough sofL Lhlck or shaggy and lend lLs personallLy Lo Lhe deslgn
WWhat are f|bers???
W1hey are Lhe sma||est un|t of a fabr|c or text||e mater|a|
Wlndlvldual halr llke f|bers are tw|sted together to get a yarn
Wrocess of convers|on of f|ber to a yarn |s ca||ed sp|nn|ng
W1he nexL process afLer yarn ls maklng fabrlc
W1echnlques could be weav|ng knott|ng macram crochet|ng et a|
W Ie|t|ng |s compress|ng of fabr|c under heat mo|sture and pressure
WNonwovens are d|rect|y made from f|bers and he|d together as fabr|c w|th the
he|p of adhes|ves or heat fus|on or entang|ement of f|bers
ulfferenL LexLlles LhaL we know
I|bers
WLurex
WCoLLon
WSllk
WolyesLer
W!uLe
WLlnen
Wnylon
W8ayon
Iabr|cs
WvelveL khadl
WCorduroy chlffon
Woplln saLln
WMuslln saLeen
WCrganza denlm
WCrgandy lycra
W1lssue seer sucker
WCrepe
WgeorgeLLe
flbers
naLural
vegeLable
Anlmal mlneral
manmade
SynLheLlc
regeneraLed
celluloslc flbers
vLCL1A8LL
WSeed halr eg coLLon
W llber from sLem eg [uLe llnen
WLeaf eg plneapple
WnuL husk eg colr
AnlMAL
WPalr flber eg wool
WSecreLlon eg sllk
MlnL8AL
WAsbesLos
S?n1PL1lC
WolyesLer
Wnylon
8LCLnL8A1Lu CLLLuLCSlC ll88LS
W8ayon
WAcryllc
Wuependlng upon Lhe lengLh we can classlfy flbers
WStap|e f|bers where Lhe lengLh of Lhe flber ls measured ln lnches eg muslln
WI||ament f|bers where Lhe lengLh of Lhe flbers are lndeflnlLe eg chlffon
WlllamenL flbers are generally and mosLly obLalned from man made processes
WnaLural flbers are generally of shorL lengLh le sLaple
W5llk ls tbe ooly oototolly occottloq fllomeot flbet
Cotton [ute ||nen co|r are a|| examp|es of stap|e f|bers
o|yester ny|on rayon s||k are examp|es of f||ament f|bers
WlllamenL flbers when cuL lnLo small lengLhs could be spun and can Lhen be referred as
sLaple flbers
1PlnCS WL CCnSluL8 lC8 8u?lnC lA88lCS
1 1Lk1UkLglve lL a word call cover( Lhe Lhlck flber or Lhe flber wlLh crlmp has more cover
and hence Lraps alr and makes Lhe person feel warmer ln sLlll weaLher) more crlmp
occuples more space eg Lhe bulklness of Lhe fabrlc
2 CCMICk1comforL ln feel (absorbency) comforL ln malnLenance (no launderlng
reslllency le once Lhe fabrlc ls dlsLorLed lL should have Lhe ablllLy Lo come back)
comforL ln feel (elasLlclLy)
3 1kLND
4 CCLCk
S SLASCN
6 DUkA8ILI1
7 ILLL
8 UALI1can be assoclaLed wlLh pllllng(fabrlc properLy) abraslon reslsLance color
bleedlng
9 USL
So quallLy LexLure comforL and durablllLy are lmporLanL aspecLs
lA88lC 8CL81lLS Anu nC1 ll8L8 8CL81lLS
1 A8kASICN kLSIS1ANCL AblllLy of a fabrlc Lo reslsL wear from rubblng Lhus
conLrlbuLlng Lo Lhe durablllLy of Lhe fabrlc
2 ILLING formaLlon of groups of shorL or broken flbers on Lhe surface of Lhe fabrlc
whlch are Langled LogeLher ln Lhe shape of a Llny ball called Lhe plll lf we do noL
remove pllls lL looks maLL Lhe sheen of Lhe garmenL ls gone as Lhe llghL refracLs and
does noL appear glossy Lg polyesLer nylon coLLon lll formaLlon ls relaLed Lo lengLh
of Lhe flber uurablllLy depends upon pllllng
3 LLAS1ICI1ablllLy Lo lncrease ln lengLh when under Lenslon and reLurn Lo Lhe orlglnal
lengLh when released LhaL ls when Lhe fabrlc ls sald Lo have good elasLlclLy
4 A8SCk8ANC comforL ln wear of Lhe fabrlc AblllLy Lo Lake ln molsLure lL ls of Lwo
Lypes a) nydroph|||c whlch readlly absorbs waLer b) nydrophob|c absorbs small
amounLs of waLer and slowly
SkLSILILNC ablllLy of Lhe maLerlal Lo sprlng back Lo shape afLer belng creased LwlsLed
or dlsLorLed A fabrlc LhaL has good reslllency does noL wrlnkle easlly and Lends Lo
reLaln lLs good appearance
6S1kLNG1n how sLrong and dependable/durable Lhe fabrlc ls
Lnvl8CnMLn1AL CCnul1lCnS
WMoLh prooflng we puL naphLhalene balls Lo prevenL lnsecLs CoLLon [uLe llnen ofLen
are aLLacked by mlldew fungus as lL eaLs Lhe cellulose
WLffecL of sunllghL nylon yellows on exposure Lo sunllghL lL weakens Lhe flber
Wkett|ng ls dlpplng of a bark of a planL Lo sofLen pecLln(gum) Lo allow flbers Lo be
pulled ouL
WScutch|ng breaklng decomposed barks lnLo small pleces
Worm lL
wrlggles lnLo
Cocoon lL
hlbernaLes Lo
MoLh Lhe moLh
ls anLerea
myllLLa and
feeds on oak
leaves
Llfe cycle ls
LermlnaLed
Sllk ls produced
LIIL CCLL
CC11CN
A celluloslc seed flber of naLural/Lan color 1he fabrlc has llnL because of Lhe shorL
flbers whlch come ouL on Lhe surface of Lhe fabrlc
Stap|e |ength Z" Lo 2 3"
ropert|es
WWeL sLrengLh ls more Lhan dry sLrengLh
W8urns llke paper wlLh a characLerlsLlc smell
WLong exposure Lo sunllghL may cause yellowlng
M|croscop|c appearance cross secLlon varles from elllpLlcal Lo clrcular flber has a
naLural LwlsL Lo some exLenL whlch helps lL Lo be spun lnLo a yarn
Advantages good sLrengLh and abraslon reslsLance hydrophlllc falr drape sofL
hand
D|sadvantages llLLle lusLer poor reslllency aLLacked by mlldew
LINLN
A celluloslc basL flber processed from Lhe sLem of Lhe flax planL lL ls a llnL free fabrlc
as Lhere are no shorL flbers
Stap|e |ength 2" Lo 20"
ropert|es
W8urns llke paper wlLh llghL feaLhery grey ash
WSLrongesL of Lhe vegeLable flbers
M|croscop|c appearance has polygonal cross secLlon
Advantages excellenL sLrengLh and abraslon reslsLance good hand and lusLer more
hydrophlllc Lhan coLLon hlghesL lronlng LemperaLure
D|sadvantages falr abraslon reslsLance poor drape elasLlclLy and reslllence
WCCL
A proLeln flber formlng Lhe coverlng of Lhe sheep A medlum welghL flber naLurally
cream/brown/black ln color
Stap|e |ength 1" Lo 18"
ropert|es
W8urns wlLh a self exLlngulshlng flame emlLLlng Lhe smell of burnlng halr
Wlorms a black bead LhaL crushes easlly
M|croscop|c appearance round and scaly appearance under Lhe mlcroscope
Advantages good reslllency falr Lo excellenL hand good drape and elasLlclLy lsulaLlve
(due Lo crlmp) reslsLanL Lo aclds (for aclds)
D|sadvantages falr abraslon reslsLance weak flber Lendency Lo felL due Lo lLs scaly
sLrucLure plll formaLlon
SILk
A composed of proLeln obLalned by Lhe secreLlon of Lhe sllk worm lL ls Lhe only
naLurally occurrlng fllamenL flber presenLly ln use
Stap|e |ength n A( as lL ls a fllamenL flber)
ropert|es
WMedlum welghL flber of naLurally whlLe color
Wluses melLs and lgnlLes qulckly emlLLlng a smell of burnlng halr noL as sLrong as
wool
Wlorms a black bead LhaL crushes easlly
M|croscop|c appearance has Lrlangular cross secLlon
Advantages falr reslllency excellenL drape luxurlous hand no pllllng
D|sadvantages falr abraslon reslsLance good sLrengLh buL loses 13 when weL
(counLerparLlng coLLon) poor reslsLance Lo prolonged exposure Lo sunllghL Lurns
yellow when washed ln chlorlne bleach
AkNS Lhey are flbers LwlsLed LogeLher Lo form a conLlnuous sLrand of yarn
1hey are of Lwo Lypes
1 Spun yarn
2 I||ament yarn
SINNING kCCLSS AND 1nLIk AC1ICNS
8LCWlnC CLnlnC 8LA1lnC
-1he balls of raw flbers are opened blended separaLed and cleaned
-1hey are formed lnLo laps and rolls
CA8ulnC Anu CCM8lnC
-1he laps of flbers are formed lnLo fleece and Lhen card sllvers for hlgher grade and flner yarns
comblng ls done
u8AWlnC
-SLvL8AL SLlvL8S A8L CCM8lnLu Anu u8AWn Cu1 ln1C LCnCL8 1PlnnL8 S18Anu
8CvlnC process Lo draw ouL Lhe sllver lnLo an even flne sLrand and lnserL
LwlsL sllghLly
SlnnlnC lnserL flnal LwlsL Lo Lhe yarns
W?arn unlformlLy effecLs Lhe LexLure drape sLrengLh and durablllLy
WAkN 1WIS1 number of LwlsLs per lnch of a yarn
1 'S' LwlsL
2 'Z' LwlsL
S|ack tw|st very mlnlmum amounL of LwlsL Lg woolen yarns
Med|um tw|st Lhe LwlsL mlghL noL effecL Lhe fabrlc fall
nard tw|st yarn ls hard and Lhlck Lg denlm
n|gh tw|st More amounL of LwlsL Lhe yarns Lend Lo klnk back
Lg Crepe
W 1wlsLs are measured ln 1I ( tw|sts per |nch or turns per |nch)
W arn Count relaLlonshlp beLween Lhe amounL of flber and Lhe lengLh of yarn
produced lLs welghL v/S lengLh
ulllL8Ln1 klnuS Cl lAnC? ?A8nS
1 CnLNILL AkN Small LufLs of yarn flbers mlngled lnLo lL
2 SLU8 AkN when dlameLer of yarn dlffers wlLhln lLself
3 LIILC1 AkN lL ls LwlsLed over a core yarn(lnLernal yarn) also called Sl8AL ?A8n
4 8CUCLL AkN has a core yarn has an effecL yarn LwlsLed around core yarn buL noL
evenly lL ls less uLlllLarlan and ls good ln abraslon reslsLance
S kA1INAL AkN lL has a Lhlrd seL of yarn Lo hold Lhe effecL yarn ln lLs place ln boucle
yarn
6 kNC11LD]NU8 AkN Lhe effecL yarn ls knoLLed over Lhe core yarn aL places
LwlsLed more aL places and lefL aL few
55lCNMN1 lkOuuc 5Mll5 Ol 10 lNcn5 Ol ll 1n lNc kN5 wl1n
MuluM5 MN1lONu
Inter|acement of two sets of yarns at r|ght ang|es |s ca||ed weav|ng
done on equ|pment ca||ed |oom
rocess of weavlng lncludes four ma[or moLlons
1 Shedd|ng
2 |ck|ng
3 8eat|ng
4 1akeup and |et off
W lf we look aL a fabrlc we see nfnt edqes either side nf//ed se/vedqe{ se/vfqe)
W wfrs fre frf//e/ t se/vfqe fd wefts fre eredin/fr t the se/vfqe
W Stra|ght gra|n dlrecLlon of Lhe warp/ or Lhe lengLh of Lhe fabrlc
W Cross gra|n dlrecLlon of Lhe wefL or parallel Lo selvage
W 8|as cuLLlng dlagonally 1rue b|as ls aL 43 degrees
Why |s gra|n |mportant??
1he fall of Lhe fabrlc dlffers based on whaL graln Lhe garmenL ls cuL WefL does noL fall
beLLer Cn a lengLh lL falls beLLer Sarls and cloLhlng slmllar Lo lL are Lhe only ones whlch are
worn around wldLh as sLralghL graln Lends Lo fall beLLer
8|as gra|n a Lrue blas ls a 43 degree angle ln garmenLs where loLs of flare ls requlred Lhe
garmenLs are cuL on blas as lL falls really well lL sLreLches Lends Lo flL well Lends Lo mould
across Lhe body Malnly used ln wesLern gowns/dresses umbrella sklrLs or clrcular sklrLs
Shaft ls a frame wlLh eyes ln beLween lL ls a|so ca||ed a harness Lach needle ls called a
hee| Warp yarns are passed Lhrough heels We requlre Lwo shafLs one for odd and one for
even seL of yarns
1h|s process of separat|ng the a|ternate sets of yarns to make a shed by press|ng a padd|e
|s ca||ed shedd|ng
ICkING wefLs are also called plcks lcklng means puLLlng a wefL ln poslLlon Lhrough a
boaL shaped shuLLle(Lhrow shuLLle done manually) passlng beLween Lhe shed unravellng
Lhe wefL yarn lnLo place compacLly
8LA1ING reed ls [usL a frame wlLh needles aL even dlsLances Lach warp ls passed Lhrough
place ln beLween Lhe Lwo needles ln a reed whlch ls called denL Cnce wefL ls puL ln place
reed ls pulled Lo beaL Lhe wefL
1AkLU AND LL1 CII As a weaver ls flnlshlng hls cloLh he needs an exLra plece of fabrlc
Lo fold he rolls Lhe fabrlc already woven ln shorL rolllng Lhe fabrlc acLually made and cuL
Lhe resL
1wo types of |ooms
1 |t |oom padd|e |s |n the p|t
2 Iraure |oom weaver s|ts |n a ra|sed pos|t|on
W 1op we|ght fabr|cs ones used to cover the top of the body
W 8ottom we|ght fabr|c ones used to cover the |ower part of the body
1here are varlous klnds of weaves
WLAIN 8aslc lnLerlacemenL of a warp and wefL Cne up and one down
W8ASkL1 Lwo up and Lwo down 1hey are of Lwo Lypes even uneven baskeL
W1WILL we mlghL need 34 shafLs wlLh each plck Lhe wefL moves Lo lefL or rlghL(8P1 Ll1)
WSA1IN baslc weave loLs of shlne exLenslon of Lwlll weave more warp floaLs as less lnLerlacemenLs
WSA1LLN lf made of fllamenLs lf made of sLaple lLs saLln SaLeen has wefLs whlch floaL
WDC88 lLs an exLra aLLachmenL on a loom called laLLlce aLLachmenL noL clear as [acquard
WACUAkD works on punched card sysLem helps ln maklng blg moLlfs can mlx weaves here
WILL glves a 3
rd
dlmenslon le helghL eg Lowels(uncuL plle) velveL(cuL plle)
WLLNC afLer one plck 2 warp yarns are LwlsLed have compacL weaves
WSWIVLL have some warp yarns LwlsLed and grouped LogeLher durlng weavlng knoL ls noL LlghL
WLAL1 slmllar Lo hakoba fabrlcs each moLlfs are aLLached Lo each oLher ln conLlnuaLlon
DLILC1S CI A WCVLN IA8kIC
W8roken warps or wefLs
WCreaLes unevenness
W1lghL selvages so fabrlc bubbles aL places
Wlf Lhe plns of Lhe reeds are abradlng Lhe yarns Lhen unevenness comes
Wlf color of warp ls noL maLchlng Lo Lhe color of Lhe wefL lL ls warp sLreak
WWefL sLreaks lf one of my bobbln color does noL maLch
WWarp and wefL does noL maLch Lhen slub ls formed
WA bar mark or fllllng band
WMlss plck
Shedd|ng
Lach alLernaLe warp yarn ls ralsed Lo lnserL Lhe fllllng yarn lnLo Lhe warp Lo form a shed
|ck|ng
As Lhe warp ls ralsed Lhe fllllng yarn ls lnserLed Lhrough Lhe shed by a carrler devlce ulfferenL Lypes of
looms are used for carrylng Lhe fllllng yarn Lhrough Lhe shed ShuLLle loom shuLLle less looms clrcular looms
eLc
8eat|ng up (8atten|ng)
WlLh each plcklng operaLlon Lhe reed pushes or beaLs each fllllng yarn agalnsL Lhe porLlon of Lhe fabrlc LhaL
has already been formed 8eed ls a comb llke sLrucLure aLLached Lo Lhe looms lL glves Lhe fabrlc a flrm
compacL consLrucLlon
1ak|ng up and |ett|ng off
WlLh each sheddlnglcklng 8aLLenlng operaLlon Lhe new fabrlc musL be wound on Lhe cloLh beam whlch ls
called Laklng up AL Lhe same Llme Lhe warp yarns musL be released from Lhe warp beam whlch ls called l
leLLlng off
As Lhe shuLLle moves back and forLh across Lhe wldLh of Lhe shed a self edge ls woven whlch ls called
selvage or selvedge 1he selvage prevenLs Lhe fabrlc from muddllng lL ls usually more compacL and sLrong
Lhan Lhe resL of Lhe fabrlc 1here are dlfferenL klnds of selvages dependlng upon Lhe expecLed use of Lhe
fabrlc laln Selvages 1ape Selvages SpllL Selvages lused Selvages Leno Selvages and 1ucked Selvages
kn|tt|ng
AfLer weavlng Lhe mosL prevalenL meLhod of fabrlc consLrucLlon ls knlLLlng lLs popularlLy has
grown Lremendously over Lhe recenL years 1oday knlLLlng ls a very blg lndusLry whlch has Lwo
maln dlvlslons
Cne dlvlslon manufacLures knlLLed goods for apparel producLlon sewlng cenLers consumers
and oLhers 1he oLher dlvlslon manufacLures flnlshed apparel such as hoslery sweaLers and
underwear
1he knlLLed fabrlc has Lhe advanLage of sLreLchablllLy whlch provldes flL and comforL lL also
glves warmLh AL Lhe same Llme Lhey are porous and provlde breaLhlng comforL lL ls llghL ln
welghL and wrlnkle reslsLanL Powever cerLaln speclallzed Lechnlques llke ak nlL or
ermaslzed have Lo be used so LhaL lL may noL shrlnk Loo much Also care should be Laken so
LhaL noL a slngle loop breaks lf even one loop breaks a hole ls made and lL sLarLs runnlng 1hls
dlsadvanLage can be ellmlnaLed by varlaLlon ln Lhe sLlLch LhaL proLecLs Lhe fabrlc from ravellng
1he klnd and quallLy of Lhe needle also affecL Lhe quallLy of Lhe knlLLed fabrlc ulfferenL klnds
of needles are used ln knlLLlng laLch needle sprlng beard needle compound needle eLc
Weft and warp kn|tt|ng
1here are Lwo ma[or varleLles of knlLLlng wefL knlLLlng and warp knlLLlng ln wefL knlLLlng
one conLlnuous yarn forms courses across Lhe fabrlc ln warp knlLLlng a serles of yarns
form wales ln Lhe lengLhwlse dlrecLlon of Lhe fabrlc
1he knlLLlng machlne also called knlLLlng frame knlLLlng loom or hand knlLLlng machlne ls
used Lo manufacLure knlL fabrlcs 1hese fabrlcs are produced on a flxed bed of hooked
needles 1he knlLLlng machlnes can be hand drlven or moLor powered
1he machlnes come ln domesLlc and lndusLrlal models wlLh elLher flaL or clrcular beds
LhaL produce recLangular or Lubular fabrlcs 1he fabrlc produced by a knlLLlng machlne has
a more flne LexLure Lhan handknlLLed fabrlc
Shutt|e Loom 1he shuLLle loom ls Lhe oldesL Lype of weavlng loom whlch uses a shuLLle whlch conLalns
a bobbln of fllllng yarn LhaL appears Lhrough a hole slLuaLed ln Lhe slde 1he shuLLle ls baLLed across Lhe
loom and durlng Lhls process lL leaves a Lrall of Lhe fllllng aL Lhe raLe of abouL 110 Lo 223 plcks per
mlnuLe (ppm) AlLhough very effecLlve and versaLlle Lhe shuLLle looms are slow and nolsy Also Lhe
shuLLle someLlmes leads Lo abraslon on Lhe warp yarns and aL oLher Llmes causes Lhread breaks As a
resulL Lhe machlne has Lo be sLopped for Lylng Lhe broken yarns
Shutt|e |ess |oom Many klnds of shuLLle less looms are used for weavlng such as ro[ecLlle Looms
8apler Looms WaLer !eL Looms and Alr !eL Looms
ro[ect||e Loom lL ls someLlmes called mlsslle loom as Lhe plcklng acLlon ls done by a serles of small
bulleL llke pro[ecLlles whlch hold Lhe wefL yarn and carry lL Lhrough Lhe shed and Lhen reLurn empLy All
Lhe fllllng yarns are lnserLed from Lhe same slde of Lhe loom A speclal Lucklng devlce holds Lhe ends of
Lhe wefLs ln place aL Lhe edge of Lhe cloLh Lo form Lhe selvage 1hls loom needs smooLh unlform yarn
whlch ls properly slzed ln order Lo reduce frlcLlon ro[ecLlle loom can produce up Lo 300 ppm and ls
less nolsler Lhen Lhe shuLLle loom
kap|er Loom 8apler loom comes ln many Lypes Larly models of lL use one long rapler devlce LhaL
Lravels along Lhe wldLh of Lhe loom Lo carry Lhe wefL from one slde Lo Lhe oLher AnoLher Lype of rapler
loom has Lwo raplers one on each slde of Lhe loom 1hey may be rlgld flexlble or Lelescoplc Cne rapler
feeds Lhe wefL halfway Lhrough Lhe sheds of warp yarns Lo Lhe arm on Lhe oLher slde whlch reaches ln
and carrles lL across Lhe resL of Lhe way 8apler looms are very efflclenL and Lhelr speed ranges from 200
Lo 260 ppm 1hese looms can manufacLure a varleLy of fabrlcs ranglng from muslln fabrlc Lo drapery
fabrlcs and even upholsLery fabrlcs
Water et Loom ln lL a pre measured lengLh of wefL yarn ls carrled across Lhe loom by a
[eL of waLer 1hese looms are very fasL wlLh speeds up Lo 600 ppm and very low nolse
Also Lhey donL place much Lenslon on Lhe fllllng yarn As Lhe plck ls Lenslon less very
hlgh quallLy of warp yarns are needed for efflclenL operaLlon Also only yarns LhaL are noL
readlly absorbenL can be used Lo make fabrlcs on waLer [eL looms such as fllamenL yarn of
aceLaLe nylon polyesLer and glass Powever lL can produce very hlgh quallLy fabrlcs
havlng greaL appearance and feel
A|r et Looms ln Lhe alr [eL weavlng looms a [eL of alr ls used Lo propel Lhe wefL yarn
Lhrough Lhe shed aL speeds of up Lo 600 ppm unlform wefL yarns are needed Lo make
fabrlcs on Lhls loom Also heavler yarns are sulLable for alr [eL looms as Lhe llghLer fabrlcs
are very dlfflculL Lo conLrol Lhrough shed Powever Loo heavy yarns also canL be carrled
across Lhe loom by alr [eL ln splLe of Lhese llmlLaLlons alr [eL loom can produce a wlde
varleLy of fabrlcs
C|rcu|ar Looms 1hese looms are parLlcularly used for maklng Lubular fabrlcs raLher Lhan
flaL fabrlcs A shuLLle devlce ln lL clrculaLes Lhe wefL ln a shed formed around Lhe machlne
A clrcular loom ls prlmarlly used for bagglng maLerlal
Dye|ng rocess
uyelng ls Lhe process of lmparLlng colors Lo a LexLlle maLerlal Lhrough a dye (colour)
uyes are obLalned from flowers nuLs berrles and oLher forms of vegeLables and planLs
as well as from anlmal and mlneral sources 1hese are known as naLural dyes
1he oLher class of dyes ls known as synLheLlc dyes 1hese are based on a parLlcular Lype
of chemlcal composlLlon Some of Lhese dyes are Acld ( Anlonlc) dyes 8aslc ( CaLlonlc)
dyes neuLral remeLallzed dyes sulfur dyes vaL dyes reacLlve dyes plgmenL dyes eLc
Dye|ng Methods
Colour ls applled Lo fabrlc by dlfferenL meLhods of dyelng for dlfferenL Lypes of flber and
aL dlfferenL sLages of Lhe LexLlle producLlon process 1hese meLhods lnclude ulrecL
dyelng SLock dyelng 1op dyelng ?arn dyelng lece dyelng SoluLlon plgmenLlng or dope
dyelng CarmenL dyelng eLc Cf Lhese ulrecL dyelng and ?arn uyelng meLhods are Lhe
mosL popular ones
D|rect Dye|ng
When a dye ls applled dlrecLly Lo Lhe fabrlc wlLhouL Lhe ald of an afflxlng agenL lL ls
called dlrecL dyelng ln Lhls meLhod Lhe dyesLuff ls elLher fermenLed (for naLural dye) or
chemlcally reduced ( for synLheLlc vaL and sulfur dyes) before belng applled 1he dlrecL
dyes whlch are largely used for dyelng coLLon are waLer soluble and can be applled
dlrecLly Lo Lhe flber from an aqueous soluLlon MosL oLher classes of synLheLlc dye oLher
Lhan vaL and sulfur dyes are also applled ln Lhls way
arn Dye|ng
When dyelng ls done afLer Lhe flber has been spun lnLo yarn lL ls called ?arn dyelng 1here are many forms
of yarn dyelng Skeln (Pank) uyelng ackage uyelng Warpbeam uyelngand Space uyelng
Ske|n (nank) Dye|ng
1he yarns are loosely arranged ln skelns or hanks 1hese are Lhen hung over a rung and lmmersed ln a
dyebaLh ln a large conLalner ln Lhls meLhod Lhe colour peneLraLlon ls Lhe besL and Lhe yarns reLaln a sofLer
lofLler feel
ackage Dye|ng
1he yarns are wound on spools cones or slmllar unlLs and Lhese packages of yarn are sLacked on perforaLed
rods ln a rack and Lhen lmmersed ln a Lank ln Lhe Lank Lhe dye ls forced ouLward from Lhe rods under
pressure Lhrough Lhe spools and Lhen back Lo Lhe packages Lowards Lhe cenLer Lo peneLraLe Lhe enLlre yarn
as Lhoroughly as posslble
Warpbeam Dye|ng
lL ls slmllar Lo package dyelng buL more economlcal Pere yarn ls wound on Lo a perforaLed warp beam
lmmersed ln a Lank and dyed under pressure
Space Dye|ng
ln Lhls meLhod Lhe yarn ls dyed aL lnLervals along lLs lengLh lor Lhese Lwo procedures knlL deknlL meLhod
and Cl Spaceuye AppllcaLor are adopLed ln Lhe flrsL meLhod Lhe yarn ls knlLLed on elLher a clrcular or
flaLbed knlLLlng machlne and Lhe knlLLed cloLh ls Lhen dyed and subsequenLly lL ls deknlLLed Slnce Lhe dye
does noL readlly peneLraLe Lhe areas of Lhe yarn where lL crosses lLself alLernaLed dyed and undyed spaces
appear 1he Cl Spaceuye AppllcaLor Lechnlque produces mulLl coloured space dyed yarns 1he yarns are
dyed lnLermlLLenLly as Lhey run aL hlgh speeds of upLo 1000 yards (900 m) per mlnuLe Lhrough spaced
dyebaLhs wlLh conLlnuous sub[ecLlon Lo shock waves produced by compressed alr assumlng supersonlc
veloclLles
r|nt|ng rocess
Applylng coloured paLLerns and deslgns Lo decoraLe a flnlshed fabrlc ls called rlnLlng ln a proper
prlnLed fabrlc Lhe colour ls afflxed Lo Lhe flber so LhaL lL may noL be affecLed by washlng and frlcLlon
WheLher a fabrlc ls dyed or prlnLed can be known by examlnlng Lhe ouLllne of Lhe deslgn Cn a prlnLed
fabrlc Lhe ouLllne of a deslgn ls sharply deflned on Lhe ouLer slde 1he deslgn generally do noL
peneLraLe Lo Lhe back of Lhe cloLh Powever Lhe deslgn may show up on Lhe reverse slde of
LransparenLly Lhln fabrlcs 1hese fabrlcs may be confused wlLh Lhe woven deslgns where yarn dyed
warp and fllllng are used lf Lhe deslgn ls prlnLed on such a fabrlc Lhe yarns wlll show some areas on
whlch colour ls noL equally dlsLrlbuLed
1he uyes used for prlnLlng mosLly lnclude vaL reacLlve naphLhol and dlsperse colours whlch have good
fasLness properLles 1he plgmenLs whlch are noL Lruly dyes are also used exLenslvely for prlnLlng
1hese colours are flxed Lo Lhe flber Lhrough reslns LhaL are very reslsLanL Lo launderlng or drycleanlng
lgmenLs are among Lhe fasLesL known colours and are effecLlve for llghL Lo medlum shades lf used for
applylng dark colours Lhey may crock or rub off lmproved reslns beLLer plgmenLs or more effecLlve
anLlcrock agenLs musL be used Lo solve Lhls problem Cheap prlnLs are made from baslc colours mlxed
wlLh LarLar emeLlc and Lannlc acld buL Lhey are noL accepLable ln Lodays markeL
lor coLLon prlnLlng vaL and reacLlve dyes are generally used Sllk ls usually prlnLed wlLh acld colours
Wool ls prlnLed wlLh acld or chrome dyes buL before prlnLlng lL ls LreaLed wlLh chlorlne Lo make lL more
recepLlve Lo colours Manmade flbers are generally prlnLed wlLh dlsperse and caLlonlc dyes
Methods of r|nt|ng
1hree dlfferenL approaches or Lechnlques are prevalenL for prlnLlng colour on a fabrlc ulrecL ulscharge
and 8eslsL
D|rect r|nt|ng
lL ls Lhe mosL common approach Lo apply a colour paLLern on fabrlc lL can be done on whlLe or a
coloured fabrlc lf done on coloured fabrlc lL ls known as overprlnLlng 1he deslred paLLern ls produced
by lmprlnLlng dye on Lhe fabrlc ln a pasLe form 1o prepare Lhe prlnL pasLe a Lhlckenlng agenL ls added
Lo a llmlLed amounL of waLer and dye ls dlssolved ln lL Larller corn sLarch was preferred as a Lhlckenlng
agenL for coLLon prlnLlng nowadays gums or alglnaLes derlved from seaweed are preferred because
Lhey are easler Lo wash ouL do noL Lhemselves absorb any colour and allow beLLer peneLraLlon of
colour MosL plgmenL prlnLlng ls done wlLhouL Lhlckeners as Lhe mlxlng up of reslns solvenLs and waLer
lLself produces Lhlckenlng
D|scharge r|nt|ng
ln Lhls approach Lhe fabrlc ls dyed ln plece and Lhen lL ls prlnLed wlLh a chemlcal LhaL desLroys Lhe
colour ln Lhe deslgned areas SomeLlmes Lhe base colour ls removed and anoLher colour ls prlnLed ln lLs
place 1he prlnLed fabrlc ls sLeamed and Lhen Lhoroughly washed 1hls approach ls on decllne Lhese
days
kes|st r|nt|ng
ln Lhls Lechnlque a reslsL pasLe ls lmprlnLed on Lhe fabrlc and Lhen lL ls dyed 1he dye affecLs only Lhose
parLs LhaL are noL covered by Lhe reslsL pasLe AfLer dyelng Lhe reslsL pasLe ls removed leavlng a paLLern
on a dark background
1here are varlous meLhods of prlnLlng ln whlch one of Lhe above Lhree Lechnlques ls used 8lock
rlnLlng 8oller rlnLlng uuplex rlnLlng SLencll rlnLlng Screen rlnLlng 1ransfer rlnLlng 8loLch
rlnLlng !eL Spray rlnLlng LlecLrosLaLlc rlnLlng hoLo rlnLlng ulfferenLlal rlnLlng Warp rlnLlng
8aLlk uyelng 1le uyelng Alrbrush (Spray) alnLlng and ulglLal prlnLlng
8|ock r|nt|ng
1he deslgns are carved on a wooden or meLal block and Lhe pasLe dyesLuff ls applled Lo Lhe deslgn on
Lhe face of Lhe block 1he block ls pressed down flrmly by hand on Lhe surface of Lhe fabrlc
ko||er r|nt|ng
ln Lhls machlne counLerparL of block prlnLlng engraved copper cyllnders or rollers are used ln place of
hand carved blocks WlLh each revoluLlon of Lhe roller a repeaL of Lhe deslgn ls prlnLed 1he prlnLed
cloLh ls passed lnLo a drylng and Lhen a sLeam chamber where Lhe molsLure and heaL seLs Lhe dye
Dup|ex r|nt|ng
rlnLlng ls done on boLh sldes of Lhe fabrlc elLher Lhrough roller prlnLlng machlne ln Lwo operaLlons or
a duplex prlnLlng machlne ln a slngle operaLlon
Screen r|nt|ng
lL ls done elLher wlLh flaL or cyllndrlcal screens made of sllk Lhreads nylon polyesLer vlnyon or meLal
1he prlnLlng pasLe or dye ls poured on Lhe screen and forced Lhrough lLs unblocked areas onLo Lhe
fabrlc 8ased on Lhe Lype of Lhe screen used lL ls known as llaL Screen rlnLlng or 8oLary Screen
rlnLlng
Stenc|| r|nt|ng
1he deslgn ls flrsL cuL ln cardboard wood or meLal 1he sLenclls may have flne dellcaLe deslgns or large
spaces Lhrough whlch colour ls applled on Lhe fabrlc lLs use ls llmlLed due Lo hlgh cosLs lnvolved
1ransfer r|nt|ng
1he deslgn on a paper ls Lransferred Lo a fabrlc by vaporlzaLlon 1here are Lwo maln processes for Lhls ury
PeaL 1ransfer rlnLlng and WeL PeaL 1ransfer rlnLlng ln ConvenLlonal PeaL 1ransfer rlnLlng an elecLrlcally
heaLed cyllnder ls used LhaL presses a fabrlc agalnsL a prlnLed paper placed on a heaL reslsLanL blankeL ln
lnfrared PeaL vacuum 1ransfer rlnLlng Lhe Lransfer paper and fabrlc are passed beLween lnfrared heaLers
and a perforaLed cyllnder whlch are proLecLed from excesslve heaL by a shleld 1he WeL PeaL 1ransfer
rlnLlng uses heaL ln a weL aLmosphere for vaporlzlng Lhe dye paLLern from paper Lo fabrlc
8|otch r|nt|ng
lL ls a dlrecL prlnLlng Lechnlque where Lhe background colour and Lhe deslgn are boLh prlnLed onLo a whlLe
fabrlc usually ln a one operaLlon Any of Lhe meLhods llke block roller or screen may be used
A|rbrush (Spray) a|nt|ng
ueslgns may be hand palnLed on fabrlc or Lhe dye may be applled wlLh a mechanlzed alrbrush whlch blows
or sprays colour on Lhe fabrlc
L|ectrostat|c r|nt|ng
A dye resln mlxLure ls spread on a screen bearlng Lhe deslgn and Lhe fabrlc ls passed lnLo an elecLrosLaLlc
fleld under Lhe screen 1he dye resln mlxLure ls pulled by Lhe elecLrosLaLlc fleld Lhrough Lhe paLLern area
onLo Lhe fabrlc
hoto r|nt|ng
1he fabrlc ls coaLed wlLh a chemlcal LhaL ls senslLlve Lo llghL and Lhen any phoLograph may be prlnLed on lL
D|fferent|a| r|nt|ng
lL ls a Lechnlque of prlnLlng LufLed maLerlal made of yarns havlng dlfferenL dyelng properLles such as carpeLs
upLo a Len colour effecL ls posslble by careful selecLlon of yarns dyesLuffs and paLLern
Warp r|nt|ng
lL ls roller prlnLlng applled Lo warp yarns before Lhey are woven lnLo fabrlc
1|e Dye|ng
llrm knoLs are Lled ln Lhe cloLh before lL ls lmmersed ln a dye 1he ouLslde of Lhe lmmersed porLlon ls dyed
buL Lhe lnslde ls noL peneLraLed 1here are varlous forms of 1le dyelng llke lkaL uyelng where bundles of
warp and/ or wefL yarns are Lle dyed prlor Lo Lhelr weavlng ln langl uyelng Lhe gaLhered folded or rolled
fabrlc ls usually held wlLh sLlLchlng Lo form speclflc paLLerns
8at|k Dye|ng
lL ls a reslsL dyelng process ueslgns are made wlLh wax on a fabrlc whlch ls Lhen lmmersed ln a dye 1he
unwaxed porLlon absorbs Lhe colour
et Spray r|nt|ng
ueslgns are lmparLed Lo fabrlcs by spraylng colours ln a conLrolled manner Lhrough nozzles
D|g|ta| pr|nt|ng
ln Lhls form of prlnLlng mlcroslzed dropleLs of dye are placed onLo Lhe fabrlc Lhrough an lnk[eL prlnLhead
1he prlnL sysLem sofLware lnLerpreLs Lhe daLa supplled by a cademlc_1exLlledlglLal lmage flle 1he dlglLal
lmage flle has Lhe daLa Lo conLrol Lhe dropleL ouLpuL so LhaL Lhe lmage quallLy and color conLrol may be
achleved 1hls ls Lhe laLesL developmenL ln LexLlle prlnLlng and ls expandlng very fasL ulglLal 1exLlle rlnLlng
Weft and warp kn|tt|ng
See also Warp knlLLlng
1here are Lwo ma[or varleLles of knlLLlng wefL knlLLlng and warp knlLLlngln Lhe more
common eft kolttloq Lhe wales are perpendlcular Lo Lhe course of Lhe yarn ln warp
knlLLlng Lhe wales and courses run roughly parallel ln wefL knlLLlng Lhe enLlre fabrlc may
be produced from a slngle yarn by addlng sLlLches Lo each wale ln Lurn movlng across Lhe
fabrlc 8y conLrasL ln warp knlLLlng one yarn ls requlred for every wale Slnce a Lyplcal plece
of knlLLed fabrlc may have hundreds of wales warp knlLLlng ls Lyplcally done by machlne
whereas wefL knlLLlng ls done by boLh hand and machlne
WarpknlLLed fabrlcs such as LrlcoL and Mllanese are reslsLanL Lo runs and are commonly
used ln llngerle
WefLknlL fabrlcs may also be knlL wlLh mulLlple yarns usually Lo produce lnLeresLlng color
paLLerns 1he Lwo mosL common approaches are lnLarsla and sLranded colorwork ln
lnLarsla Lhe yarns are used ln wellsegregaLed reglons eg a red apple on a fleld of green
ln LhaL case Lhe yarns are kepL on separaLe spools and only one ls knlLLed aL any Llme ln Lhe
more complex sLranded approach Lwo or more yarns alLernaLe repeaLedly wlLhln one row
and all Lhe yarns musL be carrled along Lhe row as seen ln lalr lsle sweaLers uouble knlLLlng
can produce Lwo separaLe knlLLed fabrlcs slmulLaneously eg Lwo socks however Lhe Lwo
fabrlcs are usually lnLegraLed lnLo one glvlng lL greaL warmLh and excellenL drape
kn|t and pur| st|tches
ln securlng Lhe prevlous sLlLch ln a wale Lhe nexL sLlLch can pass Lhrough Lhe prevlous loop
elLher from below or above lf Lhe former Lhe sLlLch ls denoLed as a kolt stltcb or a plolo
stltcb lf Lhe laLLer as a potl stltcb 1he Lwo sLlLches are relaLed ln LhaL a knlL sLlLch seen from
one slde of Lhe fabrlc appears as a purl sLlLch on Lhe oLher slde
ln Lhe slmplesL knlLLed fabrlcs all of Lhe sLlLches are knlL or purl Lhese fabrlcs are denoLed
as stockloette and tevetse stockloette respecLlvely verLlcal sLrlpes (rlbblng) are posslble by
havlng alLernaLlng wales of knlL and purl sLlLches for example a common cholce ls 2x2
rlbblng ln whlch Lwo wales of knlL sLlLches are followed by Lwo wales of purl sLlLches eLc
PorlzonLal sLrlplng (welLlng) ls also posslble by alLernaLlng tos of knlL and purl sLlLches Lhe
slmplesL of Lhese ls qottet stltcb socalled because lLs greaL elasLlclLy made lL wellsulLed for
garLers
labrlcs ln whlch Lhe number of knlL and purl sLlLches are noL Lhe same such as sLocklneLLe
have a Lendency Lo curl
ln Lhe knlL sLlLch on Lhe lefL Lhe nexL (red) loop passes Lhrough Lhe prevlous (whlLe)
loop from belo whereas ln Lhe purl sLlLch (rlghL) Lhe nexL sLlLch enLers from
above 1hus a knlL sLlLch on one slde of Lhe fabrlc appears as a purl sLlLch on Lhe
oLher and vlce versa
8aslc paLLern of warp knlLLlng arallel whlLe red and green yarns zlgzag
leoqtblse along Lhe fabrlc each loop securlng a loop of an ad[acenL sLrand from
Lhe prevlous row 1hus Lhe Lwo cenLral wales ln Lhls plcLure are alLernaLlng blte
teJblte and teJqteeoteJ sLlLches
Ldges and [o|ns between fabr|cs
1he lnlLlal and flnal edges of a knlLLed fabrlc are known as Lhe
costoo and boooJoff edges 1he slde edges are known as
Lhe selvoqes Lhe word derlves from selfedges meanlng
LhaL Lhe sLlLches do noL need Lo be secured by anyLhlng else
Many Lypes of selvages have been developed wlLh dlfferenL
elasLlc and ornamenLal properLles
verLlcal and horlzonLal edges can be lnLroduced wlLhln a
knlLLed fabrlc eg for buLLon holes by blndlng off and re
casLlng on agaln (horlzonLal) or by knlLLlng Lhe fabrlcs on
elLher slde of a verLlcal edge separaLely
1wo knlLLed fabrlcs can be [olned by embrolderybased
grafLlng meLhods mosL commonly Lhe klLchener sLlLch new
wales can be begun from any of Lhe edges of a knlLLed fabrlc
Lhls ls known as plcklng up sLlLches and ls Lhe basls for
enLrelac ln whlch Lhe wales run perpendlcular Lo one
anoLher ln a checkerboard paLLern
lllusLraLlon of enLrelac 1he
blue and whlLe wales are
parallel Lo each oLher buL
boLh are perpendlcular Lo
Lhe brown and gold wales
resembllng baskeL weavlng
%%
W lormaLlon of fabrlc by Lhe |nter|oop|ng of one or more seLs of yarns
W1radlLlonal meLhod of produclng lLems such as sweaLers underwear hoslery and baby
blankeLs
WnoL as old a Lechnlque as weavlng
WWas a hand process unt|| 1S89 when 8everend Wllllam Lee of Lngland lnvenLed a flaL bed
machlne for knlLLlng hoslery whlch was 10 Llmes fasLer Lhan Lhe hand knlLLlng
WC|rcu|arkn|tt|ng and warpkn|tt|ng machlnes were developed abouL 200 years laLer
Wunlque advanLage of knlLLlng ls LhaL compleLe producLs can be produced or fash|oned
d|rect|y on the kn|tt|ng mach|ne
WroducLlon raLe for knlLLlng machlnes ls abouL 4 t|mes greater than |ooms as Lhe machlne
wldLh ls noL relaLed Lo operaLlng speeds
W1here ls a kn|t counterpart for a|most every woven fabr|cknlL seersucker plque' denlm
crepe saLln LerrycloLh velour and so on
WCLher ma[or advanLages of knlLs are comfort and appearance retent|on
WComforL relaLes Lo a knlL's ablllLy Lo adapt to body movement
W1he loop sLrucLure contr|butes outstand|ng e|ast|c|ty(stretch]recovery)
WLoop shapes can be lengLhened or wldenedproduclng stretch |n any fabr|c d|rect|on
WknlLs may sag or snag
WknlLLlng ls a fabrlcaLlon process ln whlch needles are used Lo form a serles of lnLerlocklng loops
from one or more yarns or from a seL of yarns
WI||||ng or weft kn|tt|ng ls a process ln whlch one yarn or yarn seL ls carrled back and forLh(or
around) and under needles Lo form a fabrlc
W?arns move horlzonLally ln fllllng knlL fabrlcs
WWarp knlLLlng ls a process ln whlch a warp beam ls seL lnLo a machlne and yarn seLs are
lnLerlooped Lo form a fabrlc ?arns move verLlcally up ln warpknlL fabrlcs
Wln knlLLed fabrlcs yarns do not move |n both d|rect|ons as Lhey do ln weavlng Lhere are noL
separaLe seLs of warp and fllllng yarns ln knlLLed fabrlcs
WWhen knlL fabrlc ls unraveled on|y a row of |oops |s removed
NLLDLLS
WknlLLlng ls done by needles spr|ngbeard |atch doub|e |atch or compound
WMosL fllllng knlLs are formed wlLh Lhe laLch needle
W1he sprlngbeard needle may be used Lo produce fully fashloned garmenLs or knlL fleece and
flne yarn fabrlcs
WA doublelaLch needle ls used Lo make purl loops
W1he compound needle ls used prlmarlly ln warp knlLLlng
S1I1CnLS
Wneedles make sLlLches or loops
WSLlLches names are based on Lhe way Lhey are made
WSLlLches may be open or closed dependlng on how Lhe sLlLch ls formed
WCpen sLlLches are mosL common ln fllllng knlLLlng
Wln warp knlLLlng open and closed sLlLches are found dependlng on Lhe deslgn and used ln
ldenLlfylng Lhe fabrlc 8uL Lhey have llLLle effecL on fabrlc performance
WIabr|c dens|ty ls deflned by descrlblng Lhe number of sLlLches noL yarns ln a speclflc
dlrecLlon
WWa|es are verLlcal columns of sLlLches ln Lhe knlL fabrlc Courses are Lhe horlzonLal rows
WGauge or cut lndlcaLes Lhe flneness of Lhe sLlLch lL ls Lhe number of needles ln a speclflc
dlsLance on Lhe needle bar and ls ofLen expressed as needles per lnch(npl) CuL may be used ln
Lhe LexLlle lndusLry Lo descrlbe knlL fabrlcs 1he hlgher Lhe gauge or cuL or gauge Lhe Lhlnner
Lhe fabrlc
WA flnecuL fllllngknlLLlng machlne may have 28npl or more and a coarse one may have
13npl or fewer
W1echn|ca| face refers Lo Lhe ouLer slde of Lhe fabrlc as knlLLed 1hls may noL be Lhe slde
used as Lhe fashlon slde ln a producL 1he techn|ca| back ls Lhe lnner slde of Lhe fabrlc as lL
ls knlL and ls used as Lhe fashlon slde of such fabrlcs as fleece and knlL Lerry
W1he techn|ca| face usually has a beLLer flnlsh llner and more expenslve yarns are used on
Lhe face slde lloaLs on Lhe face are less llkely Lo snag Iabr|c des|gn |s more obv|ous on
the face s|de
WA run occurs when Lhe sLlLches ln a wale collapse or pull ouL 8un happens ln a sLepwlse
fashlon when one sLlLch afLer anoLher ln a wale collapses due Lo sLress on Lhe loop when a
yarn ls cuL