AN ANALYSIS OF PERFORMANCE OF RING SLUB YARN IN SIZING AND WEAVING

Presented By Guided By Prof. A.I.THAKKAR SIR TRIVEDI ADITYA PARTH JOSHI

1. Introduction
1.1 Definition of slub A yarn that is spun purposely to look irregular in shape (length and diameter). Usually slub yarns are very regular in repeat and size (Shown in Fig.) . Denim made with slub yarns have the benefit of showing white streaks after denim is stonewashed, so it provides a garment with more character and interest. In denim industry, the production of slub yarns is becoming increasingly useful and prevailing compared to the conventional yarn. This increase is reported to the fabric effect gotten with slub yarn. Therefore, this fancy yarn type which consists of two parts, the slubs (or flames) and the spacing (figure), confers an aesthetic aspect which provides the initial impulse of attraction and may be the only factor that influences the decision to buy.

1.2 Sizing Starch, gelatin, glue, was that is added to fabrics in the finishing state to improve touch or weight and to help fabric lying in the cutting phase. Denim fabrics have almost 1 oz of sizing.

Sizing is also applied to reinforce warp yarns during weaving. Most common starches used are corn in the United Sates, rice in Asia, and potatoes in Europe, or PHOH and other chemical substances.
Sizing of the warp yarn is essential to reduce breakage of the yarn and thus production stops on the weaving machine. On the weaving machine, the warp yarns are subjected to several types of actions i.e. cyclic strain, flexing, abrasion at various loom parts and inter yarn friction. Sizing ingredients Adhesive: - Farina, maize, carboxyl methyl cellulose Lubricant: -Tallow, soap or wax Additive: - Zinc chloride, salicylic acid

1.2 Weaving Tsudakoma is the air jet loom on which this slub yarn is used. For that the various properties of yarn like tenacity, size pick up, ring spinning conditions, loom settings, as compared to ring yarn hairiness of slub yarn are to be considered.

Air jet looms are running on high speeds, almost above 800rpm, so a slub yarn should have that much strength which is necessary to restrict the breakage of yarn during weaving.
The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft insertion performance and are considered as the most productive in the manufacturing of light to medium weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton and certain man-made fibers (sheets, shirting fabrics, linings, taffetas and satins in staple yarns of man-made fibers);

2. Brief History of Working

2.1 Slub yarn preparation. Slub yarn is a yarn containing varying thicknesses which is produced by changing the speed of the bottom rollers on the spinning frame. We can achieve the various size and irregularity of slub yarn by slightly modifying the production process. Slub yarn began to be used in the creation of slub silk. It is generally used to make upholstery, lace, net curtains and house hold fabrics. It is widely been used to produce denim fabrics and more vivid casual wear 2.2 Slub Equipment for Ring frames Slub equipment

Multi-count/Multi-twist equipment
Slub Yarn with Fancy Draft

2.3 Data of Sizing process 2.3.1 Slub yarn Sizing A particular slub yarn of 9.0 slub had experienced a major amount of breaks in warping. This yarn was sized under following conditions: Viscosity: 50 ml in 6 sec Refract meter reading 6% Speed: 30 min/min Temperature was 90+/-5 Stretch was of 0.8 2.3.2 Size pick-up process The sizing machine influences the amount of size pick up in several ways. The amount of size pick up, or take up, is affected by the amount of tension applied to the yarn and the length of time the yarn is exposed to the size bath.

2.4 Weaving 2.4.1 Warp preparation Its warp preparation department produces high quality warps both for in-house weaving as well as commission beam warping, sectional beaming / section warping for sales to third party customers. The weaving mills are highly productive and flexible, with dobby and jacquard looms (air-jet, rapier and projectile weft insertion weaving machines) capable of producing fabrics over 5 metres (197 Inch) wide. Parameters like tension at sizing and weaving were equal for both slub and non slub yarn; though a striking difference in the working efficiency was observed.

3. Implementation of Project Work

3.1 Work at Ring Frame 3.1.1 DRAFTING

Drafting arrangement is the most important part of the machine. It influences mainly evenness and strength.
3.1.2 Slub Yarn Attachment

Electronic Function Key or Touch Screen panel to set the parameters of the Slub viz. Slub length, Slub Diameter, Slub Distance. User Friendly & Maintenance free. Up to 10 programs can be stored in the memory and can be called up at any time. Can be run with dual motor without affecting the Slub parameters The Slub formation is by Servo control and the clutch arrangement is eliminated totally.

3.2 Winding Process: After the drafting is over the slub yarn is now wound on ring bobbin, this ring bobbin are now fed to winding. 3.3 Warping Process: The cone/cheese produce in winding machine are now creel to enable warping process. Care is taken that both winding and warping are done with minimum or negligible stoppages and end breaks. Tension is duly mentioned throughout the warping process so as to yield a warpers beam with minimum or no faults. 3.4 Process Control in Sizing: Choice of Size recipe. Changes of yarn due to sizing. Technological changes due to sizing. Warp break occur in sizing.

3.5 Performance on air-jet loom:

3.5.1 Air Jet Loom

Air jet loom, as one of the shuttle less looms, transports a yarn into warps using viscosity and kinetic energy of an air jet. Performance of this picking system depends on the ability of instantaneous inhalation/exhaust, configuration of nozzle, operation characteristics of a check valve. 3.5.2 Warp faults. The speed and design of the shuttle-less weaving machines in general make the warp yarns slightly hairy compared to shuttle looms. Such hairy warp yarns do sometimes form small loose fibrous balls around warp yarns in heavy reed qualities. These small loose fibrous balls get woven into the fabric on the looms. 3.5.3. Types of loom stoppages

3.5.4 Factors influence the reduction of yarn breakages

3.5.5 Practical measures for the reduction of yarn breakages

4. Result
when a ring bobbin was used on winding machine to prepare cheese/cone, there was a clasimatt data showing that due to diameter consideration of the slub majority of the splicing was done because of the slub yarn. Analysis says that instead of splicing if knotting is carried out of a fancy yarn used as warp on Airjet loom then it serves better than spliced yarn. In weaving it was observed that slub yarn start to break when subjected to uneven tension from backrest to the area of drop pins and area of drop pins to the healds. To overcome it appropriate working and maintenance of the previous process should be done. And in weaving technology like sensitive back rest helps to achieve a relative less tension variation on the loom.

5. Conclusion
Ring frame, winding, warping and sizing are the preparatory for slub yarn to be used in weaving. So considering this process with different working conditions, a conclusion is reached that by varying various speeds in ring frame dimension of the slub like length of the slub, diameter of slub, interval of slub repeat. By making change in sizing recipe or sizing parameters to allow slub yarn to be competent enough to withstand wear and tear in weaving.

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