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FIG: 1
Braided Rope Three general categories of braided construction exist: diamond braid with a core, diamond braid without a core (called hollow braid) and solid braid. Diamond braid is manufactured by weaving ends of yarn over and under, the same fashion in which the maypole dance is done. If there is a core around which the rope is braided it cannot be spliced. If no core exists, the rope is called "hollow braid". The outstanding feature of hollow braided rope is the ability to splice it. Lehigh encloses a splicing fid with instructions in every bag of hollow braid poly. Solid braid is very firm, round and tightly woven with a special lock-stitch construction which prevents unraveling when cut or torn. Solid braided rope stands up especially well to chafing of blocks and pulleys. This construction cannot be spliced. When the rope as well as the core are braided, the construction is know as "braid-on-braid" or "double braid". This is the strongest and most expensive of all rope
FIG: 2
Making rope is a skill that has been around for thousands of years. Once people got past vines and other natural materials for binding up things, they discovered that fibers could be combined and twisted into great lengths by taking advantage of the tendency of materials to remember their natural condition
Figure 1 shows the most often encountered form of laid rope. Laid ropes with the opposite twist pattern are said to be left hand laid. The lay of a rope is determined by examining the twist. If you look down the length of a rope and the primary strands spiral in a clockwise direction, it is right hand laid.
FIG 3
NATURAL FIBRES
Description: This 1" wide flat braid is made from the bark of the banana tree. Its rich contrasts of dark and light browns make this product a distinctive trim or edging accent. Most often used to wrap columns or log joinery, as well as trim over some of our other decorative wall and ceiling treatments
Appearance: 1" wide flat braid made using the bark of the banana tree. With beautiful contrasting light and dark browns in diamond shaped woven patterns, this material makes wonderful trim. Grade (Int. vs. Ext.): Best for interior applications, but may be used under a lanai or covered porch.
Bac-Bac Braid
Durability: Quite a rugged material, this is commonly used as lashing in its areas of origin. Size: 1" x 82' Stainability: Can receive a stain, but since it already has such rich colors, it is typically not stained.
FIG: 4
Materials: Natural Banana Bark
Description: The beautiful rich tans and browns of this hand twisted rope is a great alternative to other lightweight lashing, and gives extra detail and charm to any project. Quite a rugged natural product, this is commonly used as lashing in its native areas. Most often used to wrap columns or log joinery, as well as trim over some of our other decorative wall and ceiling treatments. Appearance: With the beautiful contrasting light and dark browns of the banana bark used to make it, this thin rope makes for a fantastic alternative to other ropes, and gives detail and texture to any project. Grade (Int. vs. Ext.): Best for interior applications, but may be used under a lanai or covered porch Durability: Quite a rugged material, this is commonly used as lashing in its areas of origin.
Size: 3/8" x 80' Strength: Easy to install; stapled, nailed, or applied with contact adhesive. Stainability: Can receive a stain, but since it already has such rich colors, it is typically not stained. Materials: Natural Banana Bark
SYNTHETIC FIBRES
Durability: Polyester rope is very close to nylon in strength, but has greater abrasion resistance and U.V. protection. Long lasting exterior rope, but does not stretch, so it cannot take shock loads. Size: Available from 1/4" to 1" thick, and in rolls of 600ft. Strength: Very strong, it is the number one general purpose rope in the boating industry. Stainability: Does not take a stain, but the sandy beige color of this rope ties in well with our other natural products Materials: Dyed polyester
FIG: 7
Figure 7 shows the way of joining bamboo strips with ropes to make a roof structure.
FIG: 8
Figure 8 shows the way making a bamboo framework tied with a rope made out of natural bamboo bark
FIG: 9
This scaffolding is not totally traditional. You may be able to see that the lashings at the joints are done with cheap poly ( made out of plastic polymer) rope, tightened with a small stick of bamboo.
FIG: 9, 10
One of the simplest bamboo joints is the drilled lashing. An upright pole is cut above a node, and a hole is drilled all the way through the pole, just below the node. A cross-pole is then secured to the upright, by a lashing through the hole. For maximum strength, a node of the cross-pole should be positioned on the upright. Lashing on both sides of the cross-pole node prevents the poles from shifting. A piece of wire bent in half (or an improvised wooden needle) makes threading cordage through the drilled hole easier, especially the last pass or two, after the hole is already packed with several strands of cordage (as shown in fig. 9 & fig. 10) Here is the completed joint, showing how lashings are made on both sides of the cross-pole node. ( as shown in fig 11 & fig. 12) The lashing is finished with a clove hitch around the upright, and a square knot. Tying lashings around any drilled hole is a good way to strengthen the joint, and helps prevent bamboo poles from splitting. The drilled joint can also be used to connect the end of a cross-pole to an upright, as shown here. For this application, the lashings should be tied above a node on the upright. Downward pressure on the cross-pole will simply tighten the lashings further, as they encounter the larger diameter of the node. This is one of the most basic principles used in bamboo construction; having the nodes work for you, to prevent slippage. .
FIG: 11, 12
WAYS OF JOINING BAMBOO WITH ROPE (green branch-lets for lashings) FIG: 13, 14
The green branch lets are flexible enough that they can be twined around themselves, to create a circular shape. The short side-stems help to lock the branch let loops together, to keep the lashings from unwinding themselves. Two such lashings, one going in each direction, are enough to make a single lightduty lashing. A cross-pole is then secured to the upright, by a lashing through the hole. For maximum strength, a node of the cross-pole should be positioned on the upright. Here is a completed lashing, made from two green bamboo branch lets. Once the green lashings dry out, they will lose most of their flexibility, but not their strength. Several branch lets can also be braided together, to create heavier lashing material. Small-diameter green bamboo stalks also make good lashings. The small stalks may develop lengthwise splits, as they are being bent around the crossed poles, but the lashings will still be strong. ( fig 13 & fig. 14)
FIG: 15, 16