Integrated Term Project

SUBMITTED BY: Nikhil Sharma Seemta Choudhary

WHAT ARE NOVELTY YARNS?

Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure or fiber composition such as slubs, inclusions, metallic or synthetic fibers, laddering and varying thickness introduced during production. Man-made fibres, which can be modified during production, are especially adaptable for special effects such as crimping and texturizing.

History Of Novelty Yarns

Historically, the metallic thread was constructed by wrapping a metal strip around a fibre core (cotton or silk), often in such a way as to reveal the colour of the fibre core to enhance visual quality of the decoration. Ancient textiles and clothing woven from wholly or partly gold threads is sometimes referred to as cloth of god. They have been woven on Byzantine looms from the 7th to 9th Centuries, and after that in Sicily, Cyprus, Lucca, and Venice. The spinning wheel, invented in India and introduced to Europe in the Middle Ages, mechanized the process. The spinning wheel continued in use into the 19th century. James Hargreavess spinning jenny (patented 1770) operated a number of spindles simultaneously but was suitable only for making yarn used as filling. Several further modifications were introduced in Britain and the United States, but the Crompton mule effectively put yarn spinning on a mass production basis.

FUNDAMENTAL TECHNIQUE OF PRODUCTION:

Novelty yarns are produced by combining fibres of different origins, length, thickness, or colour. Blending is accomplished before spinning and is performed to impart such desirable characteristics as strength or durability, to reduce cost by combining expensive fibres with less costly types, or to achieve special colour or texture effects. The novelty produced , possesses the properties of both(or more) the yarns.

TYPES OF NOVELTY YARNS :

1.FANCY YARN:
Different coloured fibres can be blended together then spun as one yarn. The main feature of fancy yarns is improvised aesthetic properties. Two or more threads of different, softness, thickness, weight, colour or fibre content can be twisted together.

Some Important fancy yarns:

Boucl:
Boucl, or looped, yarns are created by loosely looping an effect yarn around a base yarn. They can be made of any type of fibre and are usually composed of three plies, or strands, wrapped around each other. The texture is created by spinning one of the three plies more loosely than the other two. Slub: A slub or thick spot in a yarn is created by varying the tightness of the twist of the yarn at various intervals.

 CHENILLE:
The soft, fuzzy surface of chenille yarns, which resemble pipe cleaners in appearance, can be created in several ways. Most commonly, a fabric is first produced and then cut into narrow strips resembling a yarn.

RIBBON:
Ribbon is a type of yarn that resembles a ribbon. It can be made from synthetic or natural fibres, such as silk or cotton. Some ribbon yarns are flat, while others are tubular in construction.

 CORKSCREW OR SPIRAL:
These are plied yarns where one yarn wraps around the other, rather than the yarns being twisted together. A spiral yarn has a higher twist than a corkscrew yarn. A spiral yarn usually has a thinner yarn wrapped round a thicker core. A corkscrew yarn has a softer bulkier yarn wrapped round a thin, firm yarn. MARL: Marl yarns are made by twisting. together two or more ends of different coloured yarns. The effect pattern is one of regular diagonal stripes of each colour.

STRUCTURES OF YARNS

2.METALLIC YARN:
Metallic yarns are often classified as novelty yarns and are created by adding a metallic fibre or yarn to the blend. These are not to be confused with actual wire used in jewellery that is sometimes knit or crocheted. Coated metallic filaments help to minimize tarnishing. When suitable adhesives and films are used, they are not affected by salt water, chlorinated water in swimming pools or climatic conditions.

Production method: There are two basic processes that are used in manufacturing metallic fibres. The most common is the laminating process, which seals a layer of aluminium between two layers of acetate or polyester film. These fibers are then cut into lengthwise strips for yarns and wound onto bobbins. The metal can be colored and sealed in a clear film, the adhesive can be colored, or the film can be colored before laminating. There are many different variations of colour and effect that can be made in metallic fibres, producing a wide range of looks.

3.UV Resistant Yarn :

Diolen UV-resistant is highly UV-stabilised polyester filament yarn that has very good dyeing properties and is easy to process. Compounds such as Titanium oxide ,Zinc Oxide, Silicon Oxide,Aluminium Oxide are used to create such yarns and fabrics. Provides 92% protection from UV rays and prevents skin diseases and skin cancer.

4.ANTI MICROBIAL YARN:

The yarn contains the active ingredient which makes the fabric bacteriostatic. A silver ceramic additive is permanently embedded into the yarn's polymer matrix within each fibre. Because the yarn is an inherent part of the fabric structure, it will not wash or wear out and offers antimicrobial protection for the life of the garment including the elimination of odour causing bacteria. Textiles made from this yarn are 100% safe for humans and do not affect allergies. Antimicrobial yarn has an extensive list of Regulatory Approvals and it is environmentally friendly and non-toxic.

Mainly used in undergarments and body suits. They prevent microbial infections and skin diseases .

5.FIRE RETARDANT YARN:

Fire retardant yarns are yarns that are naturally more resistant to fire than others through chemical treatment or manufactured fireproof fibers. Fabric flammability is an important textile issue, especially for stage drapery that will be used in a public space such as a school, theatre or special event venue. Fire extinguisher suit is made up this yarn. Also used in airplane upholstery.

6.WATER AND SOIL RESISTANT YARN:

Water and soil resistant finishes developed with nanotechnology mimic the natural self-cleaning property observed below in the lotus leaf. By binding with each fiber of the fabric, a durable micro-rough surface structure resembling peach fuzz on a molecular scale is created. This keeps dirt or fluid droplets on the surface of the fabric. Water and oil-based spills bead up on fabrics treated with this type of finish but the look and feel of the fabric are not affected and fabric breathability is maintained so you remain comfortable.

7.REFLECTIVE YARNS:
Reflective yarn is designed to increase night time safety. The front side of the fabric has a satin finish - lustrous and reflective whereas the back has a dull finish. It can be made of silk or a synthetic lookalike such as polyester. It reflects the light and is used to raise safety . Used in reflectors, construction worker jackets, gloves,etc.

MERITS AND DEMERITS:

MERITS: high delivery speeds low yarn production costs elimination of rewinding low end breakage rates yarn character similar to that of ring-spun yarn no wrapping fibres optically good mass evenness (well suited to knitted goods) better and softer handle than that of rotor-spun yarn smooth yarn appearance DEMERITS: low yarn strength high tendency to snarl higher number of fibers needed in yarn cross-section difficulty of keeping spinning conditions constant high air consumption increasing unevenness and imperfections with increasing spinning speed, and further reduction in yarn strength.

BIBLIOGRAPHY:
http://www.rieter.com/en/rikipedia/articles/alternative-spinningsystems/the-various-spinning-methods/open-end-spinningprocesses/friction-spinning/advantages-and-disadvantages/8 http://www.miniknittingstuff.com/yarn8.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_yarns

http://qctester.wordpress.com/category/yarn-utility-cloths/
http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/589392/textile/15732/No velty-yarns

BOOKS: Technical Textile yarns (woodstock publications) Yarn Texturing Technology