La Cucina Cortellesi

Recipes and Reflections

INDEX

REFLECTIONS PASTA & SAUCES

Marinara Sauce & Variations Basic Meat Sauce Baccala w/ Pasta see Baccala/Salt Cod Bolognese Sauce Clam Sauce Eggplant/Sausage Sauce Fettucine w/Dried Mushrooms Papardelle w/Chicken Liver Ragu Papardelle & Bunny Sauce Pasta Agli Olio Pasta Carbonara Pasta w/Cauliflower Pasta Ceci Pasta w/Peas, Ham and Cream Pasta Piselli Pasta Putanesca Pasta w/Shrimp & Fennel Perciatelli Amatriciana Pesto Sauce Pork Rib Sauce Rigatoni w/White Bolognese Sauce Tagliatelli w/Ricotta & Tomato Sauce Tuna Sauce White and Red

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NON PASTAS
Cannelloni Cappelletti & Variations Crespelle Gnocchi Manicotti Nonnas Chicken Ravioli Polenta also see Polenta Wedges Ricotta Dumplings Gnudi Risotto Risotto w/Asparagus Risotto w/Dried Mushrooms Risotto w/Fresh Mushrooms

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SOUP
Basic Chicken Soup Bean & Barley Soup Cod Soup Cucumber Vichyssoise Lentil Soup Minestrone Pasta Fagioli Potato & Leek Soup Rassolnick Senegalese Soup Vegetable Soup a la Chiusa

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BIRDS
Chicken Aunt Josephines Chicken Chicken Cacciatore Chicken Parmigiana Chicken w/Tuscan Aromas Roast Chicken Roast Chicken w/Fennel Sauted Chicken Livers w/mushrooms & Sage Duck Duck Legs & Carrots Roast Duck

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Small Birds Grilled Quail Quail w/Artichokes Grilled Quail w/Olives & Polenta Roasted Cornish Game Hen

MEATS/BUNNIES, etc.

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Bollito Misto Braised Lamb Shanks Calfs Liver w/Pancetta, Scallions & Sherry Chili Garlic-roasted Pork Shoulder Neopolitan Pork Chops Osso Buco Pigs Knuckle Lyonnaise Saltimbocca Romana Sausage & Broccoli Rabe Stuffed Peppers Tripe, yes TRIPE Veal Cutlets Veal & Peppers Rabbit Pappardelle w/ Bunny Sauce see Pasta Rabbit a la Jardinera Roast Rabbit w/Mustard sauce Rabbit Le Petit Fontaine

SWIMMERS
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Baccala/Salt Cod Baccala in Guazzetto Baccala Mantecato Baccala Mantecato w/Pasta Roses Baccala Salad Baccala on Toast Calamari Lyonnaise Stuffed Calamari w/Peas & Sun Dried Tomatoes Braised Squid/Tomatoes/Chiles & Swiss Chard Baked Cod w/Onions & Potatoes Cod, Potato & Fennel Casserole Cod, Potato & Hard Boiled Egg Fritto Misto di Pesce Frutta di Mare Hake & Bake Shrimp & Fennel Shrimp Fra Diavolo Shrimp in Marinade Baked Rollatini of Sole Sauted Filets of White Fish Sauted Filets w/Salsa Verde Sauted White Fish (Merluzzo)

VEGETABLES
Artichokes Sauted Baby Artichokes Artichokes Fried in Batter Artichokes w/curry Sauce Stuffed Artichokes

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Beans White Beans w/Oil & Sage White Beans w/Tuna Fish Escarole & Beans Fava Beans Braised Endive Celery Root Remoulade Cipolline Onions & Balsamic Vinegar Spanish Grilled Onion Eggplant Parmigiana Eggplant Sandwich Fennel w/Butter & Parmesan Cheese Potatoes Fingerling Potatoes w/Herring & Vodka Fingerling Potatoes w/Sage & Rosemary in Duck Fat Galette of Potato Gratin of Celery Root & Potatoes Mashed Potatoes w/pancetta & scallions Potatoes Anna Pumpkin Flowers in Batter Stuffed Pumpkin Flowers Slow Baked Tomatoes Swiss Chard Bruschetta Swiss Chard Patties

MISCELLANEA
Aioli Berro, Apio y Cebolla Bordelaise Sauce Chimichuri Sauce Grilled Figs w/Goat Cheese Frittata & Variations Pintxos Pissaladiere Polenta Wedges Tapenade Tomato Salad Vinaigrette Sauce

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DESSERTS
Blue Berry Tortoni Ricotta w/Black Olives

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Castellaras - Fayence

REFLECTIONS
This is not a cook book Rather, it involves a bunch of recipes that we have enjoyed over the years, punctuated with sage comments and sometimes relevant photographs. Some of the recipes are home made, others are hand-me-downs from grandmothers and great grandmothers, and still others come from all over the place. The theme tends to be Mediterranean. A few will not initially appeal to the unimaginative palate, but I am putting them down here lest they be forgotten. You can forget them later. Ah! the memories of childhood. All of this assembled wisdom and cookery is directed to and for the possible use or disregard by the immediate family (La Famiglia!). Other parties might not pick up on some of the references or old world comments. Outsiders who steal this information will be attacked in their dreams by rabid anchovies and relentless voracious squid. In the future you might consider adapting all of this with photos and comments for your own purposes.

IN THE BEGINNING, there was SOFFRITTO This is sometimes called Odori, or Mirepoix if you are in France Once you grasp this fundamental concept you have conquered twenty five per cent of all the mysteries of Mediterranean cuisine. It forms the basis for a great many dishes including soups, braised and roasted meat or fish, pasta sauces, etc. It is even good on toast. Basically, vegetables and seasonings are cooked over low heat in some type of fat, such as oil, butter, lardons (unsmoked 8

bacon), pancetta etc. The classic soffritto is chopped carrots, onions and celery sauted in olive oil, seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sometimes chopped peppers and seasonings such as thyme, rosemary, etc. are added. It serves multiple purposes. Tomatoes There is an area around Naples near Mt Vesuvius called San Marzano. For some reason soil, microclimate, etc. - the very best tomatoes come from this area. Hard to find, more expensive, but quite superior. Always use them if you can. Just as with fresh tomatoes, it helps to cut off the top near the stem to eliminate some bitterness. If practical, get rid of most of the seeds and a good bit of the watery liquid. It cuts down on the cooking time. If during the cooking process canned tomatoes taste a little bitter, add a sprinkle of sugar. Note: Cooking time except for meat sauce - is normally 30 or so minutes. Once the oil (fat) comes to the top it is about done. Olive Oil Always use good extra virgin oil (EVO), one normal brand for cooking and at least one more of higher personality (fruity) for drizzling on salads, sauces, toast, etc. Most recipes understate the amount needed (the same is true of garlic). Remember, olive oil smokes at a lower temperature than vegetable oil, so there are times such as when making breaded veal cutlets when vegetable oil or a mix of both is a better choice. Garlic Poor garlic, so misunderstood. The trick is not to allow it to burn. In many cases, as it begins to take on color it has already flavored its surroundings and can be removed. By the way, the raw taste/aroma is totally different from the cooked state. For instance, baked un-peeled garlic cloves can be spread on toast like butter. They are quite creamy and un-intimidating. A good rule is to use more than a recipe calls for. Onions - A cooked onion has no relation/comparison to raw ones. Generally, when sauting onions, they should be cooked for much longer periods 15 or 20 minutes or more so that they caramelize. Shallots are onions with a college education and very good in most places where onions are called for. Pasta Sauces There are twelve million ways, but always use quality products. Generally, it breaks down between red and white, white being all those without the blessing of tomatoes (butter/cheese, pesto, vegetables, pancetta, mushrooms, garlic/parsley, etc.). For some reason there is a tendency to over-sauce pasta. Use less so that the particular pasta type has more room to express itself. Note: only people who wear white sweat socks to the office eat bread with spaghetti. It would be like having a slice of bread with a baked potato. Dipping bread in sauce - now thats something else. Pasta In this country we tend to forget that pasta dishes dont have to be relegated to the main course. Try small servings of various pastas as a first course (or a risotto) to kick things off. Also, we tend to overcook the stuff. Al Dente! Toujours Al Dente! Plan to adjust the type of sauce to the pasta in question. Generally, wider thicker (papardelle, gnocchi) pastas or one with bumpy surfaces are better served with thicker sauces. Thinner sauces work better with pastas that have holes in them (perciatelli, ziti). Fresh made pasta is so readily available these days that it isnt in vogue to make your own. Nonetheless, home made pasta in its various forms is a knack easily learned. It is very satisfying. Gnocchi are the easiest. Keep in mind dry, boxed pasta is better for oil based sauces than fresh pasta since the fresh stuff readily absorbs the oil. Fresh and dry pastas are two different but equal worlds. Once in a while treat yourself to various high quality importedj (expensive) dry pastas. You will notice the difference.

Cheese Parmigiano-Reggiano reigns! But, study the subject because of the diversity of choices: soft, hard, goat cheeses, ricotta, fontina, asiago, mozzarella, pecorino. Each has its applications. What is better than fresh tomatoes with mozzarella, basil and olive oil?

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Anchovies (Lat. Engraulis Encrasicholus) Get over it! Human beings seem to have strong and unnecessarily negative views of these little bad boys. It is definitely an acquired taste, but given the opportunity, most people come to realize that anchovies add a subtle dimension to many dishes. The best ones are those preserved in salt, they keep forever. In the simplest of cases anchovies are splendid on roasted peppers along with parsley, extra virgin olive oil and s/p. Mixed with hot oil, garlic and parsley they are superb folded into slightly undercooked well drained spaghettini. Salt Cod Sometimes known of as baccala. Misunderstood is an understatement. This has been a staple of high quality cuisine for a thousand years. Maybe even a year or two more. Once washed and soaked in frequently changed cold water for about 36 hours salt cod has multiple applications little connection with fresh cod. The thicker sections are the best. Baccala is an important staple to the Christmas Eve fish fry. Brandade de Morue and its variations is famous worldwide, Embrace it! In all of its dimensions! Those who excel in this subject have earned a Baccalaureate! Parsley It has mysterious qualities and adds a lot, particularly, to pasta sauces. Always use the flat leaf type. The other stuff is purely decorative. Placed in a glass of water, and covered with plastic, in the refrigerator, it will keep for a week. During the day, it makes for a pleasant bouquet on the kitchen counter. Hot Pepper Flakes Otherwise known as peperoncino. Used properly it adds a very pleasant level of warmth to many dishes. If the seeds from the whole dried peppers are removed, the amount of heat is lessened quite a bit. A bunch of dried red peperoncino tied at the base can be hung in the kitchen to very good effect, and used as needed. Basil Fresh basil is always better than dried. It is very easy to keep a small potted basil plant and pluck off the leaves where required. Fresh leaves can be frozen by placing small amounts in plastic bags. Just drop the frozen pieces in any cooking tomato sauce. Try sprinkling cut up fresh basil on pasta prior to serving. Chopped basil and EVO blended together can be frozen in ice cube trays and used as needed. Other Herbs Oregano is probably the only herb that gets better when dried. Also, as with basil, its a simple thing to grow small pots of herbs such as sage, rosemary, thyme and savory. You save money and have a fresh attractive product. They can then be dried and mixed. Create your own Herbs de Provence. After six months or so throw them out and start over.

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Mushrooms Just as with having a bouquet of parsley in a glass of water on the kitchen counter, every cooking venue needs a package or two of dried porcini mushrooms. They have multiple applications and provide a very different and richer quality than fresh ones.

Salt Unfortunately, more rather than less enhances taste. Many recipes encourage little additions throughout the cooking process. Actually, you need 3 salts for general use: 1) plain stuff (kosher) to add to pasta cooking water, etc.; 2) A good quality sea salt Sel de Mer for normal flavoring; 3) A high personality one Fleur de Sel, Maldon for final touches in salads or finished foods. When your friends see these displayed you will gain in stature. You will be respected. They may even lend you money. Toast Sliced French/Italian toasted breads make a very nice accompaniment to vegetable or meat dishes. It also invites the addition of various spreads such as EVO, tapenade, aioli, chopped fresh tomatoes and onions, etc. Sometimes this is called bruschetta . As an off beat breakfast touch, cut in half a clove of garlic and rub it gently on toast. Sprinkle on a little EVO. A nice wake up call. Bread Crumbs Definitely make your own. Use day old stuff or fresh. Cut off the edges, chop up coarsely and put in a 250 degree oven for about a half hour. When fairly dry grind it up to a smaller size. The crumbs dont have to be tiny or even equal in size. No comparison to store bought.

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Infusions No pre-prandial cocktail should ignore the fulfilling qualities of dandelion or escarole juice. Heated, and after a trying day, there is no finer restorative on a late winter afternoon.

Grand Canyon

Mise en Place French for setting everything up ahead of time. Have the necessary tools( pots, pans, knives, etc.) at hand, prepare some things in advance (slicing, peeling etc). The simpler things are the easier the cooking task. Warm Plates Stick them in a 200 degree oven for a few minutes before plating. It makes a world of difference. Tidiness Clean up as you go along. Less confusion and youll be happier at the end of the day or the next morning. ~ JPC, May 2013

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PASTA AND SAUCES

This rolling pin was presented to your great grandmother by her husband (Paul) when she arrived in Wheeling, West Virginia from Capo dAcqua, Marche (in the mountains) in December 1913. He had his priorities. It was retired sixty two years later. Your other great grandmother and grandfather came about the same time from Geraci Marina, Calabria (by the sea). Both were excellent cooks although I lean towards the Calabria versions when it comes to marinara and meat sauce. The simplest, most basic and versatile red sauce of all is marinara. It was a quick fix for sailors (marinari) by adding crushed fresh tomatoes and basil to hot olive oil and garlic. Ten minutes. Basic Marinara Sauce 1/4 cup EVO 2 or 3 cloves of garlic thickly sliced 4 cups of tomatoes - preferably San Marzano fresh basil - hand full (frozen basil also works) fresh flat leaf chopped parsley - hand full (optional) a few hot pepper flakes

Heat garlic in oil until golden (not dark) then add tomatoes which you have already (a) cut off any bad tips (b) cut lengthwise and squeezed out much of the seeds and watery liquid (c) chopped or crushed by hand Cook a few minutes with medium heat then add chopped basil - after a few minutes add in the parsley, and salt to taste Continue simmering - 30/40 minutes or more - until sauce thickens. You can puree all or part to create a smoother sauce. Alternatively, add a thinly sliced onion to the EVO - before the garlic - and simmer several minutes until caramelized, then proceed as above. Onion tends to sweeten the tomatoes. Another excellent option: In EVO saut a diced Spanish onion, with a small shredded carrot and 4 thinly sliced cloves of garlic. Season with fresh thyme/salt/pepper and cook until wilted. Then add in the tomatoes, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes (Mario Batali).

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By the way, most people pour sauce over cooked pasta. It usually works out better to put the drained pasta into the sauce and mix it up. Sauce can be frozen for up to a few months in small containers for various future uses There are never ending variations/additions, such as: A) Vegetables - add cooked Swiss chard, broccoli, dandelion or zucchini to sauce and simmer. Or saut thickly sliced mushrooms in a little oil and salt then add to sauce (or while sauting them add in a little Marsala sweet wine). Or add a cup of green or black olives + some capers to the cooked sauce and simmer. B) Fish - (1) add 3 or 4 pieces of soaked(36 hrs) salt cod (baccala) to simmering tomato sauce and cook for 30 minutes (until tender to the fork) along with some hot pepper flakes. Towards the end sprinkle in some wrinkled black olives. (2) add chunks of canned tuna fish to the simmering sauce along with a sprinkling of capers. By the way, there are multiple qualities of tuna. Once in a while treat yourself to the best. (3) for the anchovy enthusiast put in rinsed anchovies with some wrinkled black olives C) Fresh Plum Tomatoes, cooked - drop in boiling water a few minutes, cool then remove skins, seeds and squeeze out the watery liquid. Caramelize sliced onions in EVO (adding salt) then add sliced garlic. After a minute or so put in the fresh crushed tomatoes and add a hand full of fresh chopped basil. From this point on the tomatoes can be cooked for any time desired since they are fresh. Twenty minutes will give more of a fresh tomato taste, simmering it longer will make it thicker and richer. D) Fresh Plum Tomatoes - 2 lbs - drop in boiling water, as above, then chop the skinned/seeded tomatoes and set aside. Force out some of the liquid. Mash 3 garlic cloves into a paste adding salt, then scatter the mashed garlic over the tomatoes, adding a little more salt. Stir and put in a bunch of torn up large basil leaves.

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Add in a pinch of hot pepper flakes, then pour in 1/2 cup of EVO along with s/p, stirring well to coat everything in the oil then cover and let marinate 1 or 2 hours at room temperature. By the way, this is great on toast or breaded veal cutlets (along with chopped red onion). Cook the desired pasta, drain well and pour into the sauce - adding freshly grated cheese. Ground black pepper. E) Cheese Cook any small pastas cavatelli, elbows, penne, etc., drain quickly and stir in fresh ricotta. Add ground black pepper and sprinkle on grated parmesan. Nowhere is it written that you cant stick on a few leaves of fresh basil. Great option: leave out the ricotta and add a room temperature beaten egg and re-heat.

Pop Pop is 80!

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Basic Meat Sauce 3 cans of tomatoes - preferably San Marzano - crushed - with most seeds and water removed 1/2 cup of EVO, or a little more 2 medium onions, sliced thin 6 hot/sweet sausages as you prefer 1 lamb shank 1 lb beef cubes

Note: Other meats can be added such as neck bones (highly recommended) of pork, lamb or veal. They tend to sweeten the sauce. Meat balls are an American creation but do add a dimension (see below). chopped parsley - hand full fresh basil, torn up - hand full 1 cup of red wine ( or less ) salt as needed

Brown the meats in the oil and put aside in a bowl (later pour off most of the residue liquid in the bowl) Saut the onions - slowly for several minutes in the oil, scraping the bottom to loosen anything sticking from the meat Add the tomatoes and the meats, stir well and raise the heat, add the wine Bring to a boil then simmer, adding the parsley and later the basil Depending on the amount of liquid, the sauce can cook 2 or 3 hours or much longer - the thicker you like it, the longer - It should never be watery. Add a pinch of sugar if the sauce lacks sweetness. Any pasta works, and it is great over polenta (on which I like to add sauted mushrooms) Fresh grated cheese

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MEAT BALLS mix1 lb of ground beef or beef/pork with a beaten egg, chopped parsley, a cup of grated parmigiano cheese, a handful or so of fresh breadcrumbs (or just chopped up fresh bread) S/P. Add a few drops of water to keep the mixture moist. Roll the mixture into soft balls about the size of a plum. Let sit in the fridge for 20 minutes and then brown them very well in olive oil. Put aside and add to the meat sauce about 45 minutes before finished cooking. There are multiple variations

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Bolognese Sauce 1 - SIMPLE RECIPE - not really 'Bolognese' but quick Heat in a heavy sauce pan 2 medium, thinly sliced onions in 1/4 cup of EVO When quite golden remove onions, leaving oil in pan Mix together 1/2 lb each of well ground beef (15% fat) and pork (15% fat), add to pan with a little salt and brown well. Spoon off visible fat. Add back the onions Turn up heat and add 3 or 4 cups of crushed (cut up or squeezed by hand) tomatoes Add some hot pepper flakes - if using a wholel hot dried pepper shake out the seeds and use only the skins Add chopped flat leaf parsley and simmer 30 or 40 minutes Serve with almost any pasta - perciatelli, penne, linguine, etc. - and grated cheese 2 - MORE COMPLEX VERSION There are multiple variations 2 oz pancetta, lean salt pork or guanciale(pig jowl)* 1/2 small carrot 1 small onion 1 small stalk of celery

The above should be finely chopped into almost a paste. A mortar is useful. 1/4 cup EVO 1 each chopped up chicken liver, gizzard, heart and neck - highly recommended, but not necessary 1 lb mixture of well ground beef, veal and pork (15% fat content) 1/2 cup dry red or white wine - good quality 4 cups of San Marzano tomatoes or fresh plum tomatoes (peeled/seeded) 1 tbsp tomato paste & 1/2 cup water (or broth) Salt - added to chopped meats

*Claude used to have this (jijada) for dinner at Las Marias. Tita cooked it and mixed it with boiled rice and he was happy. It made his coat glisten.

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In a heavy pot saut the EVO with the pancetta/carrot/onion/celery until golden. Add the ground meats and salt to the pot and brown thoroughly. Towards the end put in the chopped chicken liver/gizzard/heart/neck. Stir up frequently with a wooden spoon (breaking up any lumps) until well browned Add the wine and cook with medium heat until it more or less evaporates Add salt and freshly ground black pepper Add tomatoes, tomato paste and water - bring to a boil, lower heat, cover and simmer about 2 hours at this point you can strip the meat off the neck and toss out the bones Remove cover and continue cooking another hour to reduce excess liquid When done remove any excess visible fat This is great with most pastas, gnocchi, polenta or lasagna Grated parmesan or romano cheese

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Clam Sauce 1/4 cup EVO 3 or more cloves of garlic, sliced 1/2 cup of white wine hand full of chopped parsley 1 dozen (maybe a few more) little neck clams, scrubbed hot pepper flakes S/P

In a heavy iron skillet saut garlic in oil until golden, then add the wine and simmer briefly Add the clams and cook covered (shaking occasionally) until they start to open Add parsley and pepper flakes - salt to taste and simmer 2 or 3 minutes Cook pasta (linguini, spaghettini, etc.) 'al dente', drain and pour into pan of clams Note: You can create a Red Sauce by simmering crushed tomatoes in the oil/garlic for a few minutes before adding in the clams

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Eggplant/Sausage Sauce Charlie and Colette cooked this for us at the Castle and we have made it ever since - it can all be done in 45 minutes 1 medium eggplant, sliced 3/4 inch thick 1 lb loose sausage meat - sweet and/or hot 1/4 cup EVO 1 medium onion, chopped- or 3 or 4 chopped shallots 2 cloves thinly sliced garlic 2 cups of crushed plum tomatoes, fresh or canned 1/2 cup of white or red wine 3 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted - just shake them around in a hot pan for a minute or so salt pinch of hot pepper flakes

La Bastide Saint-Antoine - Grasse

Salt both sides of the sliced eggplant and place in a bowl under heavy weight (frying pan, etc.) for 1015 minutes Then pour off bitter liquid, wipe off salt and squeeze out excess moisture (If the eggplant is really fresh this step is not necessary)

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Cut into 1 inch cubes Saut garlic/onion in EVO then add in eggplant pieces, stirring and adding salt to taste Add in tomatoes and simmer until eggplant is done (maybe 20 minutes) Meantime brown and cook sausage meat in 3 tbsp of EVO, add pinch of salt, turn up heat, add wine and let evaporate Mix sausage into the pan of eggplant/tomatoes, stir well, add pepper flakes and sprinkle on pine nuts Serve with grated cheese Preferable pasta is penne rigati or rigatoni

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Fettuccine with Dried Porcini Mushrooms The dried porcinis offer up a more penetrating, woodsy flavor than fresh mushrooms 1 1/2 oz dried porcini mushrooms 2 or 3 tbsp EVO 2 oz pancetta, diced (or chopped lardons) 1 minced shallot 1 cup of heavy cream freshly grated nutmeg 1/2 lb fresh fettuccine or tagliatelle grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese S/P Chopped parsely (optional)

Place the mushrooms in a bowl and cover with 2 cups of boiling water for at least 30 minutes Drain well and set aside, straining the liquid into a measuring cup Place the porcini on paper towels and press to remove moisture, then cut the large pieces in half

Combine the oil, pancetta, shallot along with s/p to taste in a large skillet and cook with moderate heat until the shallot is golden Put in the mushrooms and cook, stirring, for 3 or 4 minutes Add in the cream and nutmeg and cook for about 2 minutes, then put in the strained mushroom liquid and cook over a very low flame until the sauce has the consistency of heavy cream. Stir often for 20 to 25 minutes. Do not let the sauce become too thick to nicely coat the pasta 24

Cook and drain the pasta then pour it into the sauce pan and, covered, let it sit for a minute or so Immediately serve on warmed plates, adding the parsley and cheese

This makes a very nice first course on a snowy night, maybe followed by roasted chicken or little boys on sleds

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Papardelle with Chicken Liver Ragu The wide noodles and thick sauce go very well tyogether 1 tbsp vegetable oil 3 or 4 tbsp pancetta, diced (prociutto will also be fine) 2 tbsp finely chopped shallot or onion 2 tbsp butter 1 garlic clove finely chopped 4 or 5 whole sage leaves 1/4 lb ground beef chuck 1/2 lb fresh chicken livers trimmed and dried 1 tsp tomato paste, dissolved in 1/4 cup dry white vermouth S/P 1 1/4 lbs of papardelle

Saut the shallot,oil and butter over medium heat until opaque,then add in the garlic followed by the pancetta and sage. Stir well for a minute then put in the beef along with a good pinch of salt and pepper. Break up the beef and cook it until it has lost its raw look. Add the cut up chicken livers, turn up the heat and cook them briefly until they too have lost their raw look. Lower the heat slightly then add in the tomato paste/vermouth and cook for 6 or 8 minutes. Correct for salt.

Cook the papardelle, drain and immediately pour into the sauce pan, stirring Grated parmesan cheese - A big red wine

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Papardelle and Bunny Sauce 4 tbsp EVO 1 large chopped onion 1 large chopped carrot 2 medium chopped celery stalks 2 or 3 large sprigs of rosemary and sage a 2 3/4 lb rabbit cut into 10 or twelve pieces 1 cup of good dry white wine 1 small (14 oz) can of chopped tomatoes 1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms - well rinsed 4 or 5 cups of chicken stock 1/2 cup chopped basil

In a heavy large pot heat EVO then add onion, celery, carrot, sage and rosemary - saut until golden+/- 10 minutes Add rabbit pieces and cook until golden - 10 or 12 minutes Add wine, reduce heat to simmer and cook until most liquid is gone - 20 minutes Mix in the tomatoes with juices, and the mushrooms Add most of the stock and all of the basil and simmer until rabbit is very tender - about 1 1/2 hours Add more stock if necessary Remove rabbit pieces and strip off the meat, returning meat to the sauce. Let sauce thicken - about 10 minutes You can also keep some of the rabbit in whole pieces and serve on the side with the rabbit sauce Grated cheese and a nice glass of vino For the squeamish you can substitute chicken thighs

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Pasta Agli Olio With this you should use a thin pasta, cooked 'al dente' and well drained 5-6 oz EVO, or more to suit your taste 4 or 5 cloves of garlic thinly sliced pinch of hot pepper flakes chopped parsley - a hand full freshly grated cheese

Testing the Beaujolais Nouveau Warm the oil then add the garlic and saut until golden, but not dark. Add the pepper flakes and turn up the heat Drain the cooked pasta very well and pour into the sauce - try to time the pasta so that it is done when the oil is hot enough to produce mild crackle S/P to taste Add grated cheese and sprinkles of parsley along with freshly ground black pepper Variations: - Add wrinkled black olives to the above - Leaving out the cheese - never put cheese on fish - add chunks of canned drained tuna fish to the cooking sauce + some capers - Add 6 or 7 anchovy fillets to the very hot sauce and stir in. Cheese is optional.

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Pasta Carbonara The whole process is very fast Bacon will give this dish a smokier flavor, but I prefer pancetta. If using bacon you may have to add some EVO to the pan. 2 cloves of garlic, minced 1/4 lb pancetta well chopped 2 eggs, beaten room temperature some chopped parsley grated parmesan cheese, at least a 1/2 cup freshly ground black pepper

The thick grounds of black pepper give this dish its name. The pepper looks like small bits of coal. In a frying pan cook the pancetta until somewhat crisp, adding in the garlic along the way. Set aside. Meanwhile cook in salted water about 3/4 lb of pasta of your choice Mix the eggs, cheese and parsley together in a large bowl or pan When the pasta is done al dente of course drain it and immediately pour it into the egg mixture and stir well so that the heat of the cooked pasta cooks the eggs. Mix in the pancetta. If there is any doubt, quickly heat up the whole thing. Add a good bit of the ground black pepper and additional cheese Note: sometimes I include 2 kinds of grated cheese, using pecorino along with the parmesan SPEAKING OF EGGS Cook tubetti, or any small pasta, drain and quickly beat in a room temperature egg, letting the heat of the pasta cook it. Add cheese and ground pepper. The ultimate comfort food.

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Pasta with Cauliflower 1 lb tubular pasta (ziti, etc) 1 large cauliflower cut into separate pieces 6-7 tbsp EVO 8 cloves of garlic, cut in large pieces 7 or 8 anchovies, rinsed A pinch of saffron 1 cup of breadcrumbs fresh if possible 1 cup grated cheese

Cook cauliflower until mostly done Heat EVO, add garlic, brown, then add cauliflower pieces, stirring Add anchovies and mix in saffron (after mixing it with a little pasta water-from the cooking ziti) Cook pasta until half done, then pour into a oven dish Mix in 1/2 of the cheese, then add the cauliflower mix, stir up Put remaining cheese on top then sprinkle on the breadcrumbs Cook 30 minutes in 350 degree oven

Pousada do Solar de Rede Mesao Frio

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Pasta Ceci (Pasta and Chick Peas) 1 15 oz can, or dried chick peas soaked overnight and cooked in boiling water 3 tbsp EVO 2 cloves chopped garlic sprig of fresh rosemary 1 cup of chopped tomatoes (squeeze out seeds) hot pepper flakes - optional S/P 1/3 lb of broken up pasta, or elbow macaroni/ditalini etc

Puree 2/3's of the chick peas (or just mash up) Add garlic and rosemary to heated EVO and after a minute or so add in the tomatoes. Simmer for about 10 minutes or until the oil separates on top - then add in all the chick peas stirring well, over medium heat. Adjust for S/P Cook the pasta 'al dente' and add to mixture along with a little of the pasta water Grated cheese. Fresh or toasted Italian bread. Variation - you can always add chopped capacollo, salt pork, prociutto or pancetta and saut until golden before putting in the tomatoes and peas You can convert this dish into a soup by adding in hot beef broth before the pasta Very nice along with sauted spinach or swiss chard Red Wine, of course

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Pasta w/Peas, Ham and Cream A rich, colorful and elegant dish Because of the cream, this should be served promptly 2 lbs. of fresh peas or 1 good cup of frozen (naturally fresh are best) 1/2 stick of butter 1 medium size onion, chopped 3 or 4 slices of pancetta, cut into 1/2 inch pieces 1/2 lbs of boiled ham, cut into 1/4 inch pieces 1/2 cup of heavy cream Salt and fresh ground black pepper 1/3 cup of grated cheese

Instead of the pancetta, sweet capacollo is also great Any pasta will do, but something short with holes in it is recommended (penne or small rigatoni) If using fresh peas, cook them in a couple tbsp of butter and 1/4 cup of water, adding salt along the way. Cooking time depends on their freshness, maybe 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a skillet saut the onions in 2 tbsp of butter along with the pancetta until the onions are well cooked and the pancetta takes on a good color. Then add in the cut up ham and cook an additional 4-5 minutes. Note: If using frozen peas, put all 4 tbsp of butter in the skillet then saut the onions/pancetta/ham as above then stir in the frozen peas and cook until tender If using fresh, cooked peas add them into the completed onions/pancetta/ham, stir well and cook another 4-5 minutes until done Stir in the cream, correct for salt, grind in a good amount of the pepper and cook down the mixture over high heat until it achieves a rather thick consistency Immediately pour the drained, cooked pasta into the skillet, add grated cheese and mix well. Before the cheese, there is nothing wrong with adding in a dollop of butter. Because of the richness of the dish, a good accompaniment would be a crisp green salad blessed with balsamic vinegar dressing

32

Pasta Piselli (Pasta and Peas)* 2 tbsp EVO 2 tbsp butter 1 large onion or a few shallots thinly sliced 2 cloves of garlic thinly sliced 1 10 oz pack of frozen peas - or fresh if available flat leaf parsley, chopped S/P hot pepper flakes - optional 1 lb small pasta shells

Heat butter and EVO, add onions and cook until quite soft, then add garlic and simmer until golden Add peas and cook until tender, adding parsley later on

Under the fig tree

Season to taste and mix with pasta shells which have been cooked in salted boiling water Grated cheese and freshly ground pepper Variation - after cooking onion/garlic you can add chopped pieces of pancetta, capacollo or prociutto and cook briefly *Peas go well with many things try a pea omelet: cook sliced onions in butter/oil, add in the cooked peas then the beaten eggs. S/P.

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Pasta Putanesca One of the quickest of all sauces. Dont make this for your girl friend. 4 cups of fresh plum tomatoes or canned 1/4 cup EVO 1 tsp oregano pinch of dried hot pepper flakes hand full of black wrinkled or Nicoise olives 1/4 cup drained capers 4 cloves of sliced garlic 8 anchovy filets 1/2 cup of parsley salt

Drain tomatoes, cut open and squeeze out seeds and liquid. Chop up. Add to heated EVO and bring to a boil Add remaining ingredients one at a time, stirring and at high heat Reduce heat and cook a few minutes until thickened the EVO will float to the top Grated cheese Linguine

Under the figless tree

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Pasta with Shrimp & Fennel 1 lb large shrimp, peeled 1/2 tsp salt 5 cloves of garlic, minced 1/4 tsp fresh ground black pepper 1/3 cup EVO 1/3 cup flat leaf parsley, chopped 1/4 cup unsalted butter 1/3 cup dry white wine 1 1/2 medium size fennel bulbs, sliced into 1/4 inch thick slices 1 1/2 cups fish stock or clam juice 6 ripe plum tomatoes, seeded and diced 1 lb fusilli pasta 1/4 tsp hot pepper flakes

Slice shrimp lengthwise then in half, set aside Combine garlic and butter in a large saut pan and set over medium heat, until garlic starts to color Add fennel, tomatoes and pepper flakes - cook +/- 3 or 4 minutes, stirring frequently, until fennel is soft Turn down heat to medium and add shrimp, s/p and parsley. Stir 1 minute then add wine, raising heat to high until wine evaporates Add clam juice and cook 1 more minute Toss cooked fusilli on top and stir in the hot pepper

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Perciatelli Amatriciana Amatrice is very close to Capo d'Acqua. Remember Angelina Cortellesi? We visited her in Marche, Capo dAcqua (1978). Later she - a maiden lady moved to Amatrice. One day I will tell you of a curious thing she did. 4 tbsp EVO 1 small chili pepper or more, seeded About 1 cup of diced lean salt pork, guanciale(pig jowl), pancetta or even bacon 3 cups peeled plum tomatoes, crushed salt

Heat EVO in large frying pan and add the pepper and pancetta Remove pepper if it starts to burn When pancetta is translucent add the crushed tomatoes, lower heat and cook until reduced and darker in color - 20 to 25 minutes. Optionally, before the pancetta, you can add a thinly sliced onion and saut until translucent. I frequently throw in a few anchovies. Add salt to taste Grated cheese and black pepper Good with all pastas but excellent with perciatelli or bucatini

36

Pesto Sauce The Genovese invented this ligurian mixture 3 tbsp roasted pine nuts - optional 2 packed cups of basil leaves 1 large garlic clove pinch of sea salt 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 3 tbsp grated pecorino cheese 1 1/4 cups of EVO

Put all ingredients except cheeses and oil in a food processor and make a paste Since I am not crazy about pine nuts I usually leave them out Add cheeses, drizzle in the olive oil and combine well If you are serving this as a pasta dish the drained pasta should be a little moist Note: there are multiple variations - the cheeses can vary, parsley can be added or substituted for the basil, hot pepper flakes can be added when serving By the way, Pesto makes an excellent accompaniment to broiled fish or meat. SCHMEER it on top. If you are going to freeze the sauce, then leave out the cheeses and add them in when defrosted. Ice cube trays are useful for this purpose.

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Pork Ribs Sauce Jane found this one. OH! Sweet Mystery of Wife. 4 tbsp EVO 6 oz of water 2 lbs pork spareribs, cut into 2 or 3 inch pieces 1 tsp salt 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1/2 tsp pepper 2 cloves of minced garlic 1/4 tsp dried oregano 1 28 oz can of plum tomatoes, seeded and crushed 1/2 tsp garlic powder 1 6 oz can of tomato paste 1 1/2 tsp fennel seed

Heat oil in a casserole pot and brown the ribs Add onion and garlic, saut until golden Add tomatoes, raise heat and add remaining ingredients, stirring Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 2 hours or until meat is falling off the bone, stir frequently Good with all pasta, especially rigatoni Great winter fare Wonderfully messy

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Rigatoni w/White Bolognese Sauce EVO, enough to cover the bottom of a large deep saut pan 1/2 sweet onion chopped 2 medium carrots finely chopped 1 stalk of celery finely chopped S/P 1 lb of mild Italian pork sausage, removed from casing 1 lb of non lean ground beef 1 1/2 cups of dry white wine 2 cups of hot beef bouillon 1 1/2 oz dried porcini mushrooms rehydrated in 2 cups of boiling water 1/2 cup of heavy cream 1 lb of Rigatoni 3/4 cup of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Bagnols en Foret, with Mel

Heat oil and add in the onions, carrots and celery saut until almost tender. Add S/P and then the sausage/beef meats, breaking them up into small pieces. Brown well and then pour in the wine and simmer rapidly until it mostly evaporates add in beef bouillon Meanwhile coarsely chop the soaked mushrooms, add them and about a cup of the liquid to the saut pan once the wine evaporates. Adjust for salt and pepper. When the consistency is right, fold in the cream and remove from heat. When the rigatoni are done, reserve 1 cup of the pasta water. Drain the rigatoni and pour them into the sauce, adding some of the pasta water or mushroom water if the mix is too dry. Cheese, along with fresh grated black pepper

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Tagliatelle with Ricotta and Tomato Sauce This is another La Chiusa recipe, excellent with fresh made pasta 2 1/4 lbs fresh or canned tomatoes remove most seeds and watery liquid 5 small carrots finely chopped 3 small celery sticks finely chopped 2 medium onions finely chopped 1 bunch of basil leaves shredded 10 oz EVO pinch of sugar S/P

Heat the oil and add the above ingredients, bring to a boil then simmer until sauce thickens about one hour Cool slightly after cooking then pass thru a sieve twice 5 oz Ricotta 4 tbsp of milk pinch of nutmeg freshly grated S/P In a bowl mash the ricotta with a fork and slowly add the milk, stirring vigorously for 2 minutes Season with s/p and nutmeg Cook and drain the pasta, then mix in as much sauce as desired Transfer to warm plates and spoon the ricotta into the middle without letting it mix with the pasta/sauce. You can sprinkle on chopped parsley for effect.

Four Generations

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Tuna Sauce For whatever reason, canned tuna is totally different (and better, to my way of thinking) from fresh tuna. Always use the best quality, it makes a difference. White 3-4 tbsp EVO 1 onion thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves thickly sliced hot pepper flakes 1 can of tuna, liquid squeezed out splash of white wine capers S/P

Cook onions in the EVO until translucent, then add in the garlic and pepper flakes (to taste). After a minute or so put in the tuna, mix well, raise heat and add in the wine. Lower heat, add s/p and capers. Pour cooked drained pasta into the pan and mix well Red 1 or 2 garlic cloves thickly sliced 5 - 6 tbsp EVO hot pepper flakes 1 can of tuna liquid squeezed out 2 cups fresh plum ( or cherry ) tomatoes fresh chopped parsley

Saut the garlic and pepper in the EVO. Remove garlic, add the tuna (liquid squeezed out), raise heat* and stir well. Add the chopped/broken up tomatoes. After bringing to a boil, lower heat and simmer for 15 20 minutes until the sauce is thickened. Parsley. Serve immediately. Wrinkled black olives are an option as are capers *at this point you can drizzle in a half cup of good white wine if you so desire

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NON PASTA
Cannelloni A rich, elegant first course These are majestic relatives of Manicotti. The fillings and sauces are different, but the tubes (crepes) can be made the same way. See the Manicotti recipe. Spinach dough is a nice variation. 1 tbsp unsalted butter 8 oz. ground pork 8 oz. ground veal 3/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1 tbsp all purpose flour 1 cup whole milk 1 large egg, beaten pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, or a little more salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 or 2 cups of basic tomato sauce 1 cup bchamel sauce*

In a large sauce pan heat 1 tbsp of butter until it foams. Brown the pork and veal, breaking it up into small pieces. Drain off any excess fat and add 1/2 cup of the cheese, the flour and milk and bring almost to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove the mixture from the heat and when cool stir in the egg, nutmeg, s/p. Set aside. Preheat the oven to 350 Once you have made the crepes (same as for manicotti), spoon about 3 tbsp of the filling on to the crepe and gently roll into a cylinder. Repeat until using up all the meat mixture. Spread half of the tomato sauce into a large baking dish and arrange the cannelloni, seam side down in a single layer. Top with the rest of the tomato sauce and then the bechamel. Sprinkle on the remaining 1/4 cup of cheese. Bake for 20-25 minutes until everything is bubbling and the edges are brown * Bchamel sauce: 5 tbsp butter, 4 tbsp flour, 3 cups of milk, 2 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp nutmeg Heat the butter then slowly add in the flour stirring over medium heat for 6-7 minutes. Heat the milk to almost a boil and add to the butter/flour, 1 cup at a time. Wisk until smooth, bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook for 10 minutes. Season with the salt and nutmeg

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43

Cappelletti The quintessential first course to Bollito Misto. They are cooked in the broth of the assembled meats (see Bollito Misto). By the way, it is all semantics. These fillings can actually apply to cappelletti, agnolotti, tortelloni or ravioli. Just the size and shape differs. Some can be cooked in broth, others in salted water and sauced. These are all great in just chicken broth or sauce. 1/4 lb each of ground pork and veal 1/2 cup of diced chicken breast, or turkey 1/2 cup of diced mortadella 2 tbsp sweet butter 3/4 cups of grated Parmigiano 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten S/P 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg 1/2 tsp lemon zest - optional

The wrappers for the filling are easily made (see below). Not quite as good, but more convenient, are wonton wrappers which are found in many markets. Cook the pork/veal in half of the butter until well browned Cook the diced chicken in the remaining butter until pink/done Put the pork/veal along with the mortadella thru a grinder, then add in the chicken and grind again until the mixture almost becomes a paste. Fold in the cheese/egg/salt, pepper/nutmeg.* Mix well and use immediately or place in refrigerator Once the cappelletti are made they can be kept a day in the refrigerator, or frozen. They are best cooked right away. If using wonton wrappers, place a rounded teaspoon of the mixture on the wonton, paint the edges with a beaten egg and fold over to form a triangle. Press the edges with the tines of a fork to seal well. Then, to make the cappelletti (little hats) fold the wonton opposite points together and press to seal. It makes a kind of dunce hat. Cook them in boiling chicken, meat or best, bollito misto broth *This same mixture can be used for cannelloni filling, just dont grind it up so much. i.e. not into a paste

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Homemade wrappers are done as follows: 2 cups of flour, 2 beaten eggs, 3 tbsp water, 1/4 cup olive oil Mix together the egg, water and oil then fold into a bowl containing the flour and slowly mix with a fork. As it comes together, use your hands to knead the dough. Transfer to a floured board and continue to knead until it becomes a smooth, soft ball (maybe 5 minutes). You should be able to stretch it. Wrap the ball of dough in plastic and let sit for 30 minutes at room temperature. Then cut off a piece and roll it out until quite thin. Cut the rolled out dough into roughly 2 1/2 inch squares and fill as with the wonton wrappers.

Try this Escarole filling as a variation 1/2 small head of chopped escarole 3 tbsp unsalted butter 4 oz ground veal 1/4 cup of grated parmesan 1/4 tsp fresh grated nutmeg 1 egg white 1 whole egg beaten S/P

Veal &

Cook the escarole in boiling salted water until tender maybe 1 minute 45

Drain and squeeze out as much liquid as you can Briefly brown the veal in a little butter set aside Heat the butter over medium heat in a skillet, add in the escarole and cook for 3 4 minutes, then transfer to a food processor along with the egg white, egg, veal, cheese, nutmeg and s/p Pulse slightly and transfer to a covered bowl. This can be kept for several hours in the refrigerator. When ready, place in the wrappers, etc. and cook in boiling broth Grated cheese

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Crespelle Serve these and you will be famous. People will talk. These are crepes stacked up like pancakes 8 high with goodies in between. One can serve 2 or 4 people as a first course. This recipe will make 8 or 9 crepes and the concept is the same as making manicotti except that you will use milk instead of water in the mix. Crepes 1/2 cup milk 1/3 cup flour 1 egg slightly beaten Pinch of salt 1 2 tbsp sweet butter for the crepe pan

Mix together the milk, flour, egg and salt Using an 8 inch pan make the crepes as with the manicotti recipe and set aside Filling Basic marinara sauce 1/2 tbsp sweet butter 1/2 cup shredded prociutto 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup whole milk mozzarella, shredded

There are many variations for the filling almost whatever you like Preheat oven to 400 Grease a 9 inch round cake pan (or something a little larger) with the butter Place a crepe in the pan and coat very lightly with some sauce, then sprinkle on a little prociutto, then some parmesan, then some mozzarella Put another crepe on top and repeat as above until the stack is complete Add a little sauce on top and then some parmesan Place high up in the oven and bake 15 minutes

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Gnocchi These are relatively unknown and superb when made correctly. They are a first or main course, or excellent as accompaniment to any meats that have sauces. Eight or ten can be a first course. This recipe - which can be done in under an hour - will produce 60 -70 gnocchi. They go very well with a butter/sage, marinara or meat sauce and cheese. If not used immediately, they can be frozen (first on a flat tray then placed in ice cube trays) 1 1/2 lbs of baking or russet potatoes 3/4 tsp of salt 1 large egg, well beaten 1 1/2 to 2 cups of all purpose flour

The amount of flour will vary depending on the moisture content of the potatoes Boil the potatoes in water to cover until tender, but not over cooked. When they are cool, peel off the skins, put them through a ricer and spread out on a large baking tray or board. Sprinkle with salt and let stand until cool and dry - about 15 - 20 minutes.

Pour the egg over the potatoes and then a cup of the flour, mixing it slowly together at first with a fork and then with your floured hands. Add more flour as needed but keep the mixture light since too much flour will make for heavy and dry gnocchi. Dont knead it any more than necessary. A good criterion is to cut the mass in half and examine the texture. It should look like cookie dough with lots of little holes - This can be mastered very quickly. Most of the Cortellesi grandchildren are experts. When ready, cut a hand full piece out and on a slightly floured surface roll it slowly into a stick about 1/2 - 3/4 inches thick Then cut off 3/4 - 1 inch pieces and toss them lightly with flour. Repeat this with all the remaining dough. The result will be 60 + gnocchi.

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As each little piece is cut off, place it on a flat surface and, using a fork roll the gnocchi so that the tines of the fork make indentations. The gnocchi will be slightly curled. This helps it hold on to the sauce. Nonna used her thumb. Cover with a clean towel and either cook in the next 5 - 10 minutes or freeze them. They can hold in the ice box for a while. Cooking: Drop them 6 or 7 at a time into salted boiling water and they will cook in 2 or 3 minutes - at which point they will come to the surface. Taste one to be sure, then remove with a slotted spoon and put them quickly into the sauce.

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Manicotti No one could make these as well as Grandma, but we come close This takes some work but will never be nearly as good in any restaurant. In fact they are rarely worth trying outside the kitchen. Crepes (pancakes) 1 cup of water 1 cup of flour 3 eggs beaten pinch of salt melted butter Filling 1 lb ricotta 1/2 lb grated mozzarella 1/2 cup of grated cheese 2 eggs chopped parsley

Note: This will produce about 10 manicotti. To make 30, triple the crepe portion of this recipe, but only double the filling. Filling: Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl Crepes: Mix together the ingredients except the butter - until quite smooth Use a 7 -8 inch non-stick frying pan - work in a little melted butter then heat until a drop of water sizzles Using a small piece of paper towel or cheese cloth rub in additional butter then quickly pour in the equivalent of 4-5 tbsp of the crepe mix - just enough to cover most of the pan bottom very thinly Quickly swirl the pan around to fill in the sides. When the top of the crepe shows some bubbles it is ready to turn over. Pick up the edge and quickly turn over and cook for about 15 seconds. Lift out and place on wax paper to cool. There is a knack to this that is easily learned. Repeat this with all the crepe mixture - even using 2 pans for speed. It is important to keep the bottom of the pan well but lightly greased. There will be about 15 crepes. This whole process can be done in under 30 minutes. When all the crepes are ready, place a dollop of the mixture in the middle of the crepe then fold the ends over so that it looks like a tube. Turn them over so that the seam is on the bottom. Repeat until the crepes are used up In an oven proof dish more or less 10" X 10" put in some marinara or meat sauce then fit in as many manicotti as will easily fit. Cover with some additional sauce. 50

Cover the dish and bake for about 20 minutes at 350 degrees Serve with grated cheese and a good red - this is great as a first course (2 or 3 per person) or as the real thing, along with a salad Note: Extra crepes can be frozen for future use(a few weeks or so at least). Place wax paper between each crepe and stack. They come to room temperature very quickly.

The 4 Campiti sisters Frances, Wilma, Olga and Teresa

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Nonnas Chicken Ravioli Lazy people buy them, real people make them This is an excellent first or main course, served with marinara or meat sauce. It is also very good served at room temperature. Usually the ones bought in stores are small - these are much bigger so that 2 or 3 can make up a serving. These will never be found in restaurants. This recipe will make about eight Lasagna dough cut into 4 5 inch squares can do Home made dough is vastly preferable and not hard to make. See Lidias Family Table page 159 (2 egg pasta) as an easy recipe. Filling: 2 cups of ground cooked chicken *and cooked spinach, roughly 2/3 chicken, 1/3 spinach If you dont have a grinder, just chop it up as well as you can *an older hen is preferable (fowl), it just has to be cooked a little longer (Paul may have one of these strolling around the yard) 2 tbsp of breadcrumbs 2 tbsp of grated cheese 1 tbsp of chopped basil 1/2tsp of grated nutmeg S/P 1 beaten egg

Mix together all ingredients, which should result in a moist but not watery mass It is important to squeeze as much water as possible out of the spinach first Taste the mixture for seasoning, there is a tendency to go easy on the nutmeg Place a couple of table spoons of the mixture on the cut dough squares and dampen the edges with either a little water or egg Place the other square on top and seal the sides by gently pressing a fork along the edges in two different directions. If not done properly the mixture can spill out while cooking, or the cooking water can enter the ravioli. Cook these, 3 or 4 at a time in boiling salted water, turning gently with a spatula once or twice so that all sides are cooked - perhaps 3 or 4 minutes (If in doubt, just taste an edge of the dough). Serve with sauce and grated cheese Once made and cooked they can be frozen for short periods 52

POLENTA You people are definitely too lazy to do this, but. Polenta has a wide variety of applications - main dish, first course, accompaniment to meats etc. In many ways it is an alternative to pasta. Cooked and cooled it can be cut into thick slices, fried in oil and served with grated cheese. Or you can put cheese (mozzarella, munster, goat) on the slices and heat them under the broiler. Cut into pie shaped wedges it can be served as a side dish for any meat that has gravy. Generally, polenta works well with most thick pasta sauces, particularly meat and or mushroom Obviously, the normal serving method is on plates. Your great grandmother (Nonna) had a more delightful, rustic approach - which goes over very well with guests. Instead of dishing the polenta out on plates and adding the sauce, she would do the following: on the kitchen/dining room table place a large clean square wooden board (one for making bead, home made pasta etc). With the applicable sauce ready at hand pour the cooked polenta out on to the board, creating a puddle about 1/2 inch thick - it will quickly take on a form. Then ladle the sauce - it should be on the thick side - on to the polenta and add grated cheese and fresh pepper. Then everyone sits around the table with a fork and cuts into the puddle, working towards the middle. No plates! Served with a big red wine, its a big hit. 2 cups of cornmeal 10 cups of water 3 tsp salt

Boil 5 cups of water over high heat Mix the cornmeal into the other 5 cups of cold water and stir rapidly to avoid lumps (the real enemy of polenta). When smooth, pour the mixture into the boiling water. Add the salt and lower the heat to a good simmer, stirring constantly. Let it bubble slowly for 50 - 60 minutes giving a lot of attention to stirring. When done, ladle on to plates - or the board, as above - and serve the applicable sauce on top with grated cheese and pepper

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RICOTTA DUMPLINGS - GNUDI There are at least two ways to do this and they are off the wall great Dumplings 12 oz of fresh ricotta 3/4 tsp salt 1/2 tsp black pepper 2 large eggs 1/3 cup parmesan cheese plus more for sprinkling 3/4 cup of flour 2 tbsp of minced chives marinara sauce

Mix all of the above, except the marinara sauce, in a food processor. Heat a pot of boiling water and, using a tablespoon, drop in golf ball sized blobs of the mixture. Reduce heat to a simmer and let cook for about 10 minutes. It is probably best to do this in 2 batches. Place the dumplings in a bowl of ice water. When cool, drain them and place in an oven proof dish, sprinkle with sauce and cheese and bake covered for 25 minutes at 400 degrees. Same concept, but different Gnudi 1 lb of fresh ricotta, drained 1 large egg 1 cup of dry spinach puree, from 20 ounces of spinach 1/4 cup of grated cheese parmesan or grana padano 6 tbsp of fine bread crumbs home made is best 1/4 cup of flour for rolling s/p

Blend together the eggs and ricotta then mix in the spinach, cheese, bread crumbs and s/p. Knead lightly. When reasonably firm form golf ball size pieces and then roll each one in the flour. Drop them one by one into boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes. They are done when they float to the top. Spoon on butter and sage sauce plus grated parmesan These are great as a first or main (lunch) course

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RISOTTO A few comments This is winter fare more than hot weather food, but great anytime. Inherently satisfying and a frequent substitute for pasta as a first course. There are a few basic issues when doing risotto Three kinds of rice can be used - Arborio, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano. Most people use Arborio. Read up on it. Never rinse the rice - it has to be dry. When the rice is added to the pot is has to be stirred in very well so that all the kernels are covered with the EVO/butter The cooking pot should be a wide, heavy skillet or deeper pot, but never copper or aluminum (the rice will discolor) A medium low flame and the slow incorporation of the hot broth are basic necessities The best cheeses are of the parmesan variety - Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano, etc. A wooden spoon is best for stirring Once the basic mixture is put together - i.e. butter(oil), onion, rice , wine, broth - additional additives are limited only by imagination - vegetables, mushrooms, meat, chicken, fish, sun dried tomatoes, or even nothing but grated cheese, saffron and freshly ground black pepper Clams make a great risotto: Steam open a dozen, save the juice. After blending in the butter/onion and rice, stir in the filtered juice. Substitute boiling water or more clam juice for the broth. When almost done, add in the whole or chopped clams. Parsley. Grated cheese doesnt really fit in here. By the way, no one thinks of serving rice in broth or soup (instead of pasta). Either cook it separately, or in the broth. Add cheese and pepper. Great.

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Risotto with Asparagus 20 stalks of young asparagus - cut off and discard the bottom 1/3, then cut in half and add the bottom parts to the hot stock for 30 minutes 6 - 8 cups of chicken broth 8 tbsp of butter 1 medium white onion, cut into 1/2 inch cubes 2 cups of raw rice 3/4 cup of good dry white wine 3/4 cup of grated parmesan cheese 2 fresh sage leaves (or 1/4 tsp of dried) freshly grated black pepper

Melt 6 tbsp of butter in the pot, add the onion and cook, stirring until transparent Add in the rice, raise the heat a little and stir well Pour in the wine and after it evaporates somewhat add in a cupful of stock, stirring and letting the stock be absorbed Continue this process for about 10 - 12 minutes, until rice is half cooked Add in the top third of the asparagus and carefully mix in, being careful not to break the asparagus Resume adding more stock - slowly to keep the rice thick - until done, about 8 - 10 minutes Shut off flame and add in the grated cheese, remaining butter, sage leaves and some black pepper Mix in, cover the pot and let sit for one or two minutes

A Bouquet of Flours

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Risotto with Dried Mushrooms This is done almost like the Fresh Mushroom recipe but actually has a distinctly different taste The dried mushrooms - about one cup - have to be soaked in 2 cups of hot or boiling water for 1/2 hour, then removed - save the liquid The steps are about the same, except you have to add 4 fresh sage leaves to the butter/onions Then add the rice, and the wine - now add in the mushrooms and a little of the soaking water before any of the stock, stir then start the ladling process, etc. Stir in cheese before serving and let sit for a minute or so Note: As one of many options, towards the end stir in small strips of boiled chicken

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RISOTTO with Fresh Mushrooms (Risotto al Funghi Freschi) Porcinis would be great but they are not generally found in the U.S. 12 medium sized mushrooms, maybe even mixed varieties 8 cups of beef stock (or mixed meat stock, which you can make from uncooked leftover meat pieces), or chicken stock 8 tbsp of butter 1 medium white onion, cut into 1/2 inch squares 2 cups of raw rice 3/4 cup of dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio 3/4 cup of grated Parmesan cheese 2 tbsp of chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

Bring stock to a boil and let simmer while preparing the mushrooms Separate the stems from the mushrooms and add stems to the stock, slice the caps to your preference and set aside Place 6 tbsp of the butter in the risotto pot and melt, then add in the onions and cook until transparent, stirring Add the rice, raise the heat a little and stir well to make sure all rice is covered with the hot butter When the rice shines, add in the wine, mixing well and let simmer until the alcohol evaporates Ladle in a cup of the stock, stirring until it is absorbed, then again and again - slowly - until rice is half done - 10 - 12 minutes Add in the sliced mushrooms and continue to ladle in more stock, allowing rice to absorb it, until done (al dente), 8 - 10 minutes more Turn off the flame and add in the grated cheese, parsley and rest of the butter Cover for a minute or two and serve with freshly ground black pepper

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SOUP
Basic Chicken Soup Next to Treasury Bills, chicken soup provides the greatest all around comfort to mankind Whether a numbered Poulet de Bresse or just a 66 day old Perdue, it only changes things from superb to not bad You have Soup, you have Chicken and, strained, you have a resulting Broth given to multiple applications 3 - 4 lb whole hen, rinsed - reserve the incidental extra parts(gizzard, neck, heart, liver, and feet if you are lucky) 2 medium onions 4 medium carrots 3 stalks of celery 1 small can or 4-5 fresh plum tomatoes S/P

Place chicken in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook until froth rises, which should be spooned off. Add the other fabulous chicken parts - gizzard etc. do not underestimate the value added of these morsels Add onions, carrots, celery and crushed tomatoes Cook over medium heat, partially covered, about 1 hour or until chicken is done Correct for s/p Variations: Add cooked tubetini/pasta or rice along with grated cheese Add to almost finished broth chopped escarole and cook a few minutes Note: Take a room temperature lightly beaten egg and stir it into very hot chicken broth! The heat will cook it. Grated cheese and ground pepper. Second note : In some hard to find places fresh chickens come with feet attached. Put this foot in your mouth very delicious. Strain what is left over. It freezes well and can be used for risotto, etc.

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Bean & Barley Soup 9 oz of cooked white beans 4 oz of pearl barley, or orzo pasta, cooked in salted water 2 fresh or canned tomatoes, seeded and quartered 2 carrots thinly sliced 1 stalk of celery thinly sliced 1 onion thinly sliced 5 oz EVO S/P

In a soup pot saut the carrots, onions and celery in the EVO for 10-12 minutes Add the beans + s/p and simmer another 20 minutes Add tomatoes and simmer 10-12 minutes Remove from heat and pass thru a sieve, adding boiling water as needed Add in the cooked barley and heat through a few minutes

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Cod Soup This is more like a loose risotto since it is rather thick Big time winter fare! Do not fail to try this as a first or main course. 1/4 cup EVO 2 medium potatoes - diced 2 medium carrots - sliced thinly 1 lb cod fillets - preferably on the thick side - cut into 1 or 2 inch pieces - if you want to go "uptown" red snapper is fine 2 cups of boiling water 1 tbsp white vinegar 1 quart (maybe a little more) of chicken or fish broth - preferably not from cubes 3/4 cup Arborio, etc. rice handful of parsley red pepper flakes S/P

Heat oil in a 6 quart pot, add the potatoes and saut 4-5 minutes Add the carrots and cook until softened, 2-3 minutes Add boiling water and the vinegar plus 1 1/2 tsp of salt Simmer +/- 10 minutes until vegetables are tender Add chicken broth then the rice and simmer about 15 minutes, stirring Add the fish chunks and cook until ready - maybe 5 - 6 minutes Remove from heat, add parsley, then red pepper flakes Put in warm bowls and add grated cheese (one of the rare times you can put cheese on fish) and black pepper

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Cucumber Vichyssoise A quick and easy summertime delight 1/4 cup of sliced onion 2 cups of diced unpeeled cucumber 1/2 of finely diced potato 2 cups of chicken broth 2 sprigs of parsley 1/3 tsp salt and 1/8 tsp freshly ground pepper 1/4 tsp dry mustard 1 cup of light cream or half & half

Place the onion, potato and cucumber in a saucepan along with the broth, parsley and seasoning. Bring to a boil and then simmer until the potato is barely tender maybe 10 minutes. Put the mixture through a blender and then chill thoroughly. When ready to serve stir in the cream.

LOasis - La Napoule

62

Lentil Soup 1 cup of lentils 2 quarts cold water (or chicken broth can be mixed in) 1/2 cup EVO 2 medium onions finely chopped 2 cloves of garlic, minced 2 small stalks of celery, chopped 1 medium carrot, chopped small amount of chopped parsley 1 bay leaf 1 28 oz can of plum tomatoes, crushed up 2 ham hocks (preferably un-smoked) or 6 slices of pancetta (or lean bacon) chopped up 1 cup or more of pasta, such as ditalini or even broken up pasta s/p

Wash lentils then add to 2 quarts of water with some salt - bring to a boil then reduce heat to simmer Meanwhile heat oil in a heavy large skillet and add ham hocks (pancetta, etc), onions, celery, carrot and garlic Cook a few minutes, until ham hocks are browned, then add parsley and 1 tsp of salt plus some freshly ground pepper Add the bay leaf and crushed tomatoes to the skillet, lower heat and simmer, uncovered, for 20/25 minutes-stirring once in a while Add all of the above to the pot of lentils and simmer for about one hour, or until the meat from the hocks is tender The skin is probably not for the diet conscious, but absolutely delicious The pasta can be cooked separately or added to the lentils/tomatoes and cooked until ready The problem with cooking it in the lentils is that it has to be consumed at that time. Cooked pasta sitting around in soup for a day or so becomes very uninteresting. Grated cheese

63

Minestrone Vegetable Soup There are multiple variations depending on the season and availability Battuto (paste) Variation 1: 1 celery stalk 1 onion 1 carrot 2 slices of lean salt pork 1 sage leaf 3 tbsp EVO Variation 2: 3 oz of pancetta or salt pork 1 tbsp fresh rosemary 1/4 cup of garlic cloves 3 tbsp EVO Soup 2 1/2 quarts of hot water 2 or 3 tsp salt 2 celery stalks chopped 2 carrots chopped 3 potatoes diced 2 medium zucchini in 1/2 inch pieces 1/4 cabbage (Savoy) head chopped 1/4 head of escarole chopped 1/4 head curly endive chopped 1 cup of fresh spinach leaves 1/2 medium onion cut in slivers 3 peeled plum tomatoes, crushed 1 cup fresh or frozen peas 1/2 cup canned chick peas (or more) with liquid 1/2 cup canned beans - cannellini, kidney, etc (or more) with liquid

1 cup of rice or small pasta

64

Battuto Chop all ingredients into a paste ( battuto) and saut in the EVO until golden - in a large pot To the pot add the hot water and salt - raise heat to boil and add in the celery, carrots and potatoes cook 10 minutes Add in the zucchini, cabbage, escarole, endive, spinach, onion, tomatoes, peas - stirring - and reduce heat - cook about 15 minutes Optional: at this time you can add the rice or pasta if desired, or later cook it separately. Its more controllable done apart. Then add in the chick peas and beans (crushing some of the beans to thicken the soup) - cook another 15 minutes or so When serving, you can pour it over a thick slice of toasted Italian brown bread and/or add grated cheese

VARIATION 1 lb of pork neck bones - rinse well in hot water and then add to the pot with the battuto and the 2 1/2 quarts of hot water, before putting in the vegetables Simmer a few minutes, skimming off any residue, then continue as above

65

Pasta Fagioli (Pasta & Beans) winter fare that is great all year long There are many interpretations and it is vastly underrated 2 or 3 slices of lean salt pork, pancetta, good bacon or capacollo 1 medium onion 1-2 garlic cloves 1 stalk of celery 3 or 4 tbsp EVO 3-4 peeled, seeded plum tomatoes - or 1 tbls of tomato paste 1 1 1/2 quarts of hot water 2 tsp salt 2 cups of cannellini or cranberry beans, preferably fresh - dried beans of course would have to be soaked overnight in cold water. If using fresh beans you need 1 1/2 lbs. If using canned beans, a 20 oz can along with the liquid (in which case you need only 1 quart of water) 2 cups of small pasta, or broken leftover pieces of mixed pastas-these are called maltagliati pasta grated cheese

The salt pork, onion, garlic and celery should be chopped up and minced into almost a paste a mortar is best for this - then added to a large pot with the heated EVO. Flavor with salt. Saut until golden then add the tomatoes and cook 4 - 5 minutes, stirring Add the hot water, salt and beans, bring to a boil and cook until the fresh beans are done (or just heat for 5 -10 minutes if using canned beans) Before adding in the beans, mash at least 1/3 of them. This will add substance to the soup. Add the pasta and continue cooking until done, adding more boiling water if needed (you can cook the pasta separately if desired) Note: The finished product should be on the thickish side, not very soupy Grated cheese and hot pepper flakes if desired

66

Potato & Leek Soup A basic staple of every blue collar French family, particularly on a cold winters evening The water in the recipe can be cut or substituted with chicken broth, which I feel is better. Stir in a spot of cream at the end, if you like. And black pepper. 2 quarts of boiling water salt 1 lb of potatoes, peeled and cubed 1 lb of leeks, tough green parts removed, cleaned and finely sliced 3 tbsp of unsalted butter

Add the potatoes and leeks to the salted boiling water (broth) and cook, covered, at a light boil Cook until the potatoes begin to fall apart - 30 to 40 minutes - i.e. when they easily mash against the side of the pot. If desired, you can puree the whole thing. Add the butter at the moment of serving.

67

Rassolnick This is a variation of the Russian recipe which normally uses a beef kidney instead of chicken livers. Jane makes this for Anatole.

We stayed at La Locanda di San Ufficio, near Asti

3 tbsp barley 1 1l2 cups water 3/4 cup chopped onions 4 tbsp butter 1 boneless chicken breast cut into small pieces or 6 wing joints cut in half 1/2 lb chicken livers cut in halves 1 tbsp flour 1 cup of carrots, diced 1 cup of potatoes, diced 8 cups of chicken broth 2 dill pickles, diced S/P 1 cup of sour cream 1 bunch of fresh dill

Simmer barley in the water until soft - drain 68

Saut the onion in the butter until limp, add the chicken and livers. Continue to saut over high heat until the livers begin to color, then stir in flour. In a large pot combine the carrots and potatoes with the chicken broth and simmer until soft Add in the barley and the chicken/onion mixture, bring to a boil then simmer 20 minutes Add the pickles and s/p To serve, put the sour cream into a tureen and stir in 1 cup of hot broth, then add the rest of the broth Sprinkle on the fresh dill This is much better than it sounds

69

Senegalese Soup One of the great cold soups. Make it ahead of time. We sometimes serve this in cups as part of the hors doeuvres. 3 Granny Smith apples 2 tbsp unsalted butter 2 carrots chopped 2 cloves chopped garlic 1 lge white onion chopped 3 tbsp curry powder 2 tbsp flour 8 cups chicken broth 1 tbsp tomato puree 1/4 cup raisins 1/2 cup heavy cream chutney

Heat the butter and cook the apples, carrots, onions, raisins and garlic until softened (10 -12 minutes) Add the curry powder and cook stirring I minute Add flour and cook stirring 2 minutes Stir in the hot broth and tomato puree and simmer covered 1 hour 20 minutes Then stir in the cream and add a sprinkle of salt Simmer uncovered 10 minutes Let the mixture cool then puree Serve cold with a dollop of chutney on top

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Vegetable Soup a la 'CHIUSA' In April 2000 we stayed at the Albergo Fattoria La Chiusa in Montefellonico 10 oz white (cannellini) beans 5 oz carrots, thinly sliced 3-4 small celery stalks, thinly sliced 2 onions, thinly sliced 4 fresh or canned tomatoes, diced 10-12 leaves of Swiss chard, cut into long strips 1 white or Savoy cabbage, cut into strips ( remove the ribs ) 5 oz EVO boiling water or water cut with chicken broth - 4 or 5 cups 1 slice (per person) of toasted brown bread - optional

If using fresh beans, soak overnight in cold water, rinse and cook until done In a sauce pan heat the oil and add the carrots, celery and onions - saut until slightly tender Add tomatoes and cook 10 minutes Add the beans along with some of the cooking liquid and s/p - let simmer for 25-30 minutes. Along the way, mash some of the beans with a fork. Add cabbage, stir in and then add Swiss chard - let simmer for 45 minutes or so, adding water or broth as needed from time to time If including the toasted bread, place it in a warm soup dish and pour in the soup. Let sit for a minute. Grated cheese can be added as can a drizzle of EVO

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BIRDS

Bert (without Linda)

CHICKEN
Grilled or roasted chicken, cornish hens, quail all go very well with certain sweet fruit such as figs or semi-dried prunes. The same applies to rabbit. Try this. Ruffle some feathers! Cook some bacon or diced pancetta until crisp. Set aside. Put sliced garlic in same pan and cook until golden. Set aside. Split open a salted Cornish hen lengthwise (one piece) and brown skin side down in the bacon/garlic fat. Put the hen in a roasting pan and scatter over thyme and quartered fresh figs. Roast at 500 for 15-18 minutes, until done. Meanwhile, deglaze the bacon fat with a little lemon juice and pour it over the plated hen. Sprinkle on the broken up crisp bacon and garlic. Aunt Josephine's Chicken (Actually, Granddaddy's, or maybe even Nonna's-in any event Marchegiano) A whole chicken cut into 8 parts is fine, but 6 separate pieces (or more) of legs and thighs are better. Consider chopping the legs/thigh bones in half since smaller pieces brown better. 4 tbsp EVO 3 large garlic cloves, sliced thinly 1 cup of good dry white wine 4 sprigs of fresh rosemary, or 1 or 2 tbsp of dried S/P Pinch of hot pepper flakes (optional)

In the heated EVO slightly brown the salted chicken parts on all sides, then add the garlic slices After 1 minute, turn up heat and add the rosemary, stir to cover with the oil and add the wine 72

After a minute turn heat to simmer- add pepper flakes - and cover, turning chicken from time to time until done - about 40 minutes

Aunt Jo, Nonna and Aunt Vi

Variation: Instead of white, use red wine or drizzle on red wine vinegar Before adding wine/vinegar stir in a couple of hands full of whole or thickly sliced mushrooms. OR About 20 minutes before the chicken is done, put in some presoaked dried porcini mushrooms with a little of the soaking liquid. Cook, uncovered from time to time, to reduce excess liquid - the resulting gravy is great with rice , small pasta or polenta

73

Chicken Cacciatore (Chicken Hunter Style) In its simplest form this is nothing more than well-browned chicken parts with tomatoes, herbs and peppers, cooked up in a little wine and maybe some broth. There are multiple variations This one has a lot of moving parts but is well worth it 3 1/2 lb whole chicken, cut into 8 - 10 parts - alternatively (which I think is better) just legs and thighs 1 1/2 tsp coarse salt 1/3 cup EVO 6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 8 fresh sage leaves 1 or 2 sprigs of rosemary 3/4 cup finely chopped shallots 1/2 cup sun dried tomatoes, cut into strips (they may have to be soaked in oil or hot water first) 1 1/2 tsp of tomato paste 1 or more pickled hot cherry peppers, drained, seeded and quartered 1/4 tsp of hot pepper flakes 1 1/2 tbsp of red wine vinegar 3/4 cup of white wine 2 large red bell peppers, seeded and cut into one inch strips 1 to 2 cups of chicken or vegetable broth

Salt the chicken parts and brown in the oil - in a heavy casserole - over medium heat. Brown all at once and don't turn until one side is well caramelized, then turn and continue another 5 minutes or so. Drop the garlic cloves into and open spot in the pot and cook a minute or so, then scatter in the sage and rosemary In another open spot add in the shallots, stir and add the sun dried tomato strips Add the tomato paste in an open spot and toast for a few seconds Now tumble the chicken around the pot to distribute the seasoning Drop in the pickled pepper chunks and the red pepper flakes, adding some additional coarse salt Turn heat to high and add the vinegar - after a minute or so add the wine and cook another minute at high heat, stirring Toss in the peppers and stir - reduce heat to medium, turning the pieces now and then 74

Cook 5 or 6 minutes then ladle in 1 cup of the broth (this is probably all you will need), partially cover the pot and cook 15 to 20 minutes Place chicken/peppers etc. on a warm platter, scrape bottom of pan and strain the juices, which can be spooned over the chicken This can be served with pasta, gnocchi or just toasted Italian bread

75

Chicken Parmigiana Very good for company because they can be made mostly ahead of time This works equally well with veal cutlets (pounded, of course) Heat oven to 350 6 breasts of chicken cutlets (about 1/2 inches thick) S/P flour 2 eggs beaten fresh breadcrumbs basic marinara sauce thinly sliced mozzarella

One at a time salt the cutlets, dredge in the flour, dip in egg and then roll them in the crumbs. Set aside. Ideally, they should sit in the refrigerator for 20 30 minutes to allow the crumbs to adhere better Heat 1/2 cup of EVO and vegetable oil until a drop of water jumps around then lay in a cutlet one at a time so that the oil doesnt lose its heat. After a couple of minutes turn them for another minute or so, until nicely browned. Place the cooked cutlets on paper towels When ready, put a little sauce on the bottom of an oven tolerant dish and put the cutlets in side by side. Cover with some additional sauce and top with scattered mozzarella pieces. Cover the dish and bake for about 25 minutes. Optionally, you can sprinkle on parmesan cheese before the mozzarella, which is not a bad idea

76

Chicken with Tuscan Aromas Another one from La Chiusa in Tuscany 1 young roasting hen - about 3 lbs., cut into 8 pieces 2 oz butter 3 tbsp EVO 2 cups of chicken stock, maybe a little more 1 fresh onion, finely chopped 1 clove of garlic, chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 2 small ripe tomatoes, skinned/seeded/diced 1/2 stick of celery, finely chopped 5 oz red wine S/P 2 or 3 sage leaves mixed with 1 sprig of rosemary, chopped

Wash the chicken, dry it off and sprinkle with s/p In a sauce pan saut the onion, garlic, celery and carrot in the butter and oil, about 10 minutes Add the chicken parts, turning them over until slightly browned, adding boiling chicken stock from time to time - not too watery After about 30 minutes pour in the wine, and when reduced add the tomatoes Correct for s/p and cook for about another 10 minutes Garnish with leaves of sage and a sprig of rosemary

77

Roast Chicken There is no shortage of ways to roast birds, but this method produces an excellent result. A high class chicken helps a lot a poulet de Bresse kicks it up a notch but a nice free range chicken works well. You are what you eat is quite valid when it comes to birds. 1/2 cup of good butter, room temperature 4 lb. chicken S/P 1 lemon sprigs of fresh thyme or tarragon, or both 1 garlic clove peeled and crushed

Preheat oven to 450

Using your hands, smear the butter all over the bird and place it in a good sized pan. Rub salt and pepper all over then squeeze on the lemon. Put the herbs and garlic inside along with the lemon halves. Roast Birdy for 15 18 minutes. Baste. Reduce heat to 350 and cook about another 35 45 minutes, basting once or twice. When done it should be golden brown with crisp skin. Turn off the heat and let it sit in the oven door ajar for 15 minutes The juices in the pan make a splendid gravy on their own (over mashed potatoes etc), just whisk them around

78

Roast Chicken with Fennel Simple and fast 1/2 cup EVO 2 bulbs of fennel, trimmed and cut into 1/4 inch length wise slices 3 lbs of dark chicken - leg/thigh together - salted and rubbed with a little EVO

Heat oven to 450 degrees Put some of the EVO into a shallow roasting pan/corning ware and put in slices of fennel, overlapping if necessary to make them fit Drizzle remaining EVO over fennel, adding salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tourette sur Loup

Roast about 10 minutes, then place the chicken pieces on top - skin side up - baste chicken with some of the oil in the pan Roast about 15 minutes, baste again, turning pan in the oven - lower oven heat if chicken darkens too quickly Baste again and roast at least another 15 minutes or so, or until chicken is well browned and done Spoon over the pan juices

79

Sauted Chicken Livers w/Mushrooms & Sage Expand your horizons by realizing that chicken livers are excellent and lend themselves to many variations. Here is one. 1 small bunch of fresh whole sage leaves plus 3 or 4 leaves chopped 1 cup of flour S/P 12 oz. of chicken livers 5 tbsp butter or a little more small amount of EVO or vegetable oil 8 oz. small mushrooms, cut up 2 large shallots,, chopped 1/2 cup of balsamic vinegar 3 tbsp of veal or beef demi-glaze

Heat some oil in a small frying pan and cook the bunch of sage leaves until crisp. Remove and put aside. Place the flour and s/p in a bowl and dredge the livers, shaking off any excess In a large skillet melt 3 tbsp of butter, add the mushrooms, saut until tender then remove and set aside Raise heat to medium-high, add enough oil to coat the bottom and saut the livers until medium rare, a couple of minutes Remove the cooked livers to a covered plate Reduce heat and cook the shallots until tender 2 or 3 minutes then remove and set aside Pour off any excess liquid/oil and under medium heat add the balsamic vinegar and cook until reduced by half Add the mushrooms, shallots, demi-glaze, 2 tbsp of butter and chopped sage leaves Stir until well heated adding a tiny bit of water if necessary to thin the sauce Serve over toasted buttered bread adding some of the mushrooms on top along with the fried sage leaves

80

DUCK
Only a quack wouldnt like this one Duck Legs & Carrots 4 fresh duck legs (including thighs) 2 medium leeks - white and pale green parts - chopped = 1 1/2 cups 1 tsp sea salt 1/2 tsp ground black pepper 1 medium white onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced lengthwise 8 or 9 whole peeled garlic cloves 8 or 9 (or more) medium carrots, cut into 1/2 inch rings 3 sprigs of fresh parsley- always flat leaf 4 inch sprig of fresh rosemary 2 Turkish bay leaves - 1 if California 3 to 4 inch jalapeno chili pepper chicken broth - about 4 or 5 cups (fresh is best, if not store bought - not canned)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees Trim visible fat from duck legs, chop the fat and put in 12 inch heavy pan, and cook, stirring until melted Pat legs dry and sprinkle on salt/pepper Pour off all but about 3-4 tbsp of the fat, increase the heat until the fat is quite hot - not smoking and saut the legs 2 at a time skin side down until browned(4 or 5 minutes), then turn over and brown another 3 minutes Transfer the browned duck legs to a platter Discard all but about 4 or 5 tbsp of the fat from the skillet then saut the leeks, onion and garlic until somewhat soft, stirring - 3 or 4 minutes Add carrots and cook +/- 3 minutes, stirring and season with s/p Spread the vegetable in a large roasting pan Tie the parsley/rosemary/bay leaf with string and add to the vegetable Nestle the duck legs skin side up in the vegetables and tuck in the jalapeno pepper

81

Add in just enough chicken stock to fill the pan, but not cover the duck skins Bake uncovered until done - about 1 1/2 hours - the skins should be quite browned Serve with vegetables on the side

82

Roast Duck A 4 lb duck is usually only enough for 2 people - it is very nice served with braised red cabbage Preheat oven to 425 degrees Wash the duck and dry with paper towels, then sprinkle inside with S/P Cut off the wing tips - they only burn Rub the outside with S/P - prick the duck skin all over being careful not to enter the meat parts Tie the leg ends together and place the duck on a rack in the roasting pan, breast side up After 15 minutes reduce heat to 375 and continue cooking for 15 minutes Remove duck from oven - wasting no time - pour off all liquids and turn duck on its side Each 20 minutes turn the duck and pour off liquid Total time is about 1 3/4 hours, the leg joint will move loosely For 2 people, split duck down the middle A big red wine and maybe a salad of endive and beets (fresh cooked)

83

SMALL BIRDS
Grilled Quail

Whether frozen or fresh almost all quail bought in the U.S. have been frozen these little birds should be brought to room temperature before cooking They are surprisingly filling, so 2 /person is about right Rinse, then pat dry each bird inside and out Sprinkle inside and out with s/p and put inside a sprig of fresh thyme and /or rosemary and one crushed clove of garlic Press each quail down to flatten a bit and loosen up the bone structure Place a thin slice of pancetta on each bird and attach with toothpicks (A rosemary stem is more elegant) Place on grill and turn from time to time - cooking time will be about 25 minutes (most recipes say less time) Alternative: Butterfly the quail - split down the back and remove the spine, adding salt + black fresh pepper on the inside. Sprinkle on thyme or other herbs. Tuck the wings under to avoid burning. Option: Place under a heavy weight (a couple of iron frying pans) for 20-30 minutes. This forces out moisture and loosens the bones. 84

Grill skin side down then turn at least 15 - 20 minutes

Fougasse!!!

85

Quail with Artichokes Unless you have semi boneless birds, this requires some finger use, but well worth it 8 quail salt & freshly ground pepper 8 slices of prociutto or pancetta 1/4 cup EVO 8 medium artichokes, trimmed and cut into wedges, or hearts of artichokes 8 cloves of garlic, lightly crushed 2 tbs tomato paste 1 cup of white wine 1/2 cup chopped parsley

Season each of the birds inside and out with S/P and wrap them in the prociutto, etc, securing them with a couple of toothpicks In a 12 inch saut pan heat the EVO until almost smoking, add the quail a few at a time and brown them very well on all sides. Set them aside in a warm place. Add the artichokes, garlic and tomato paste to the pan and cook, stirring, for about 8 minutes. Add the wine, cover and cook until the artichokes are tender 6-7 minutes. Throw in the parsley. Add back the quail, cover and cook with medium heat until done not overcooked maybe 7 8 minutes It makes a picture perfect presentation

86

Grilled Quail w/Olives & Polenta 4 Quail, butterflied and flattened - get their attention with a heavy frying pan S/P 6 cloves thinly sliced garlic 20 sprigs of fresh thyme 1/2 cup of heavy red wine 6 tbsp EVO 1 cup of yellow cornmeal 1 or 2 oz of minced pancetta 1 1/2 cup of chicken stock 1/4 cup of Nicoise olives 2 tsp of black olive tapenade

Place quail in a large bowl, season with s/p and scatter in half of the garlic and most of the thyme sprigs Pour in the wine and 4 tbsp of EVO, cover and marinate-refrigerated- about 4 hours, then remove quail and save marinade Bring 4 cups of water to boil and add 1 1/2 tsp of salt In a steady, slow stream, pour in the cornmeal, stirring constantly - cook about 25 minutes, stirring When done, pour polenta into an oiled 8 inch baking pan, spread evenly and set aside to firm up Once firm, remove from pan, cut into 1/4's, then in halves again = 8 triangles In a skillet heat remaining oil, add garlic and pancetta - saut until golden Add chicken stock and the reserved marinade - cook 5 minutes Add olives, tapenade and remaining thyme sprigs - add s/p - heat to simmer and remove from heat Grill the polenta triangles 3 minutes per side - i.e. browned (keep warm) Grill quail skin side down until browned maybe 7-8 minutes, turn and grill another 8-12 minutes or more until quail is done Place on a platter and pour heated sauce over quail and polenta DON'T INVITE ANYONE FROM THE AUDIBON SOCIETY

87

Roasted Cornish Game Hens Very easy and fast 4 fresh Cornish Hens 1 medium onion, quartered 4 tbsp cold butter 4 tbsp melted butter 2 tsp dried tarragon 1 tsp dried thyme 1 tbsp chopped parsley S/P

Remove the giblets (give them to your friends, or not) Season the hens inside and out with s/p. Place one quarter onion and equal amounts of the herbs in each of the hens cavities along with 1 tbsp of the cold butter. Tie the legs together and fold the wings back then baste the hens with the melted butter. Cook uncovered, in a preheated 400 degree oven for about 1 hour, basting 2 or 3 times along the way. Cooking time depends on the size of the birds. This goes particularly well with braised endive and a potato galette

88

MEATS/BUNNIES, etc.
Bolito Misto We had this with Charlie and Collette at Trattoria Vascello dOro in Carru -September 2007 when we stayed at the Luigi Einaudi Ospalita e Cantina in Dogliani. Fantastic. Essentially, a boiled meat extravaganza. One of the great classic meals. There are various adaptations. The resulting superb broth with cappelletti (or any small meat filled pasta) always provides the first course for this dinner. The four meats are invariably served with a salsa verde and/or hot spiced fruit pickles 1 1/2lbs of beef brisket 1 small chicken or part of a larger fowl(the rest of the fowl can become chicken/spinach ravioli) 1 1/2 lbs small beef/veal tongue (loosen up! This is excellent) 4 stalks celery w/leaves 2 carrots 2 onions 1/4 medium turnip 4 plum tomatoes 4 tsp salt several peppercorns 1 tsp marjoram 1 tsp thyme 2 bay leaves 1 small cotechino sausage

Leaving out the cotechino, place all the meats in an 8 quart pot with water to cover. Add the vegetables plus the salt and peppercorns. Bring to a boil and scoop off the froth. Add the herbs, reduce heat and simmer for 2 hours. If using chicken instead of fowl, add it in after 1 hour to avoid overcooking. You may cook the tongue separately and when done remove skin and add to the other meats near the end Meanwhile, prick the skin of the cotechino and bring to a boil in a good amount of cold water. Then, simmer for 2 hours. When the meats are done including the drained cotechino - cut the chicken into pieces, remove the skin from the tongue and cut thinly on the diagonal. Slice the beef and sausage. Put all on a warm platter with a little broth and serve with the salsa verde, etc..

89

Before hand, as the first course, strain the broth and cook the cappelletti then serve with grated cheese. Any remaining broth can be saved for future use. Salsa Verde This is best made using a mortar 2 cups flat parsley leaves, chopped 2 tbsp capers, chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped 1/2 cup EVO 1/2 cup wine vinegar salt to taste or, better, 2 chopped anchovies

Mix all together (except the EVO and vinegar) and mince, then put in a mortar Slowly add the EVO as you grind up the mixture into a thick consistency. Add the vinegar slowly and continue grinding into a spoonable paste. Taste for seasoning. Serve at room temperature.

90

Braised Lamb Shanks 6 Lamb shanks maybe 1/2 cup EVO 1 large carrot, sliced 4 garlic cloves, sliced 1 red onion, sliced 2 tbsp chopped hot pepper 28 oz can of good tomatoes, drained, chopped a few strips of lemon rind (go easy) 1 cup of dry white wine S/P

With about 4 tbsp of EVO, brown the shanks in a heavy sauce pot. Set aside. With another 4 tbsp of EVO, in a large casserole add the garlic, carrot, onion and cook until golden. Add in the tomatoes, pepper, lemon peel and wine. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and put in the shanks and S/P/. Cover the pot with foil, put on the lid and cook 2 1/2 hours on top of the stove, or in a 325 oven. Any small pastas orzo go well with this. Or rice/risotto!

Jane introduces butterflied leg of lamb to the Cote dAzur

91

Calfs Liver w/pancetta, scallions & sherry 2 1/2 inch thick slices of calfs liver 1/2 cup milk 3 thin slices of pancetta, chopped 1 tbsp(or so) of EVO/vegetable oil, divided 1/2 cup of all purpose flour mixed with 1/2 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp of freshly ground pepper 2 tbsp unsalted butter 1 cup thinly sliced scallions 1/4 cup of Cream Sherry 2 tbsp water

Soak the liver in milk 15 minutes Cook the pancetta in half (1 tsp) of the oil over medium heat until crisp, stirring now and then. Transfer to a paper towel, leaving the fat in the skillet. Discard the milk, pat the liver dry and dredge in the flour mixture. Shake off excess flour. Add the remaining oil to the skillet (with the fat in it), heat over medium flame. When the oil is hot add the liver, turning once until browned and no more than pink in the center - a total of about 4 minutes. Most times the tendency is to overcook liver. Much better pink. Transfer the liver to a warm plate Melt 1 tbsp of butter in the same skillet and over medium heat saut the scallions for about 1 minute. Add the sherry, water and a pinch of S/P. Cook until reduced slightly, about 1 minute. Remove from heat, add the rest of the butter, stir in and spoon over the liver. Sprinkle on the crisp pancetta. Note: This goes very well with mashed potatoes (see the recipe for mashed potatoes w/pancetta & scallions)

92

Chili I mean, this recipe makes a LOT which of course can be frozen in portions. Many ingredients. Very good. Beer and Bread as accompaniment. 1/2 cup EVO 1 3/4 lbs yellow onions, coarsely chopped 2 lbs sweet Italian sausage, removed from casing 8 lbs of beef chuck, ground 1 1/2 tbsp fresh ground black pepper 2 12 oz. cans of tomato paste 3 tbsp minced fresh garlic 3 oz. ground cumin seed 4 oz. plain chili powder 1/2 cup of Dijon style mustard 4 tbsp salt 4 tbsp dried basil 4 tbsp dried oregano 6 lbs about 5 35 oz. cans of Italian plum tomatoes, drained 1/2 cup burgundy wine 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/2 cup of fresh dill 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley 3 16 oz. cans drained - of red kidney beans 4 cans - +/- 5 1/2 oz each pitted black olives, drained

Heat the oil in a large soup kettle, then add the onions and cook over low heat, covered, until tender/translucent maybe 10 or 12 minutes Crumble the sausage and ground meat into the kettle and cook over medium-high heat until all is well browned. Spoon out as much excess fat as possible. Reduce heat to low and stir in the pepper, tomato paste, garlic, cumin, chili powder, mustard, salt, basil and oregano Add the drained tomatoes, burgundy, lemon juice, parsley, dill, and drained kidney beans. Stir well and simmer uncovered, for another 15 minutes Taste and correct the seasoning. Add olives and simmer another 5 minutes. Serve immediately. Refrigerate or freeze the rest.

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Garlic-Roasted Pork Shoulder This makes many meals, including sandwiches. Forget the health kick the crisp roasted skin is out of sight. 1 entire head of garlic, smashed and peeled 2 tbsp plus 1 tsp kosher salt, divided 1 1/2 tbsp dried oregano 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice 7 7 1/2 lbs bone-in pork shoulder with skin 1 tbsp ground fresh black pepper

Using a mortar & pestle if you have one mash the garlic with 2 tbsp of the salt, then stir in the vinegar, oregano, lemon juice and pepper Pat the pork dry. With a small sharp knife, cut a wide pocket under the skin at the large end, to separate the skin from the fat. Make about 1 inch deep slits in the meat under the skin and in the meat where there is no skin, then push the garlic mixture into the slits all over, rubbing whatever is left over the non skin part. Wipe the skin clean then rub on the remaining salt. Transfer to a glass or ceramic dish and marinate, covered/chilled at least 8 hours. Put pork skin side up in a flame-proof roasting pan, discarding the marinade, and bring to room temperature Heat oven to 350 with rack in the middle Cover the pan with parchment then tightly with foil and roast 2 1/2 hours. Discard the foil/parchment, add 1/2 cup of water. Roast uncovered adding more water when liquid evaporates until skin is browned and crisp and meat is tender 2 to 2 1/2 hours more. Transfer to a platter, reserving the juices, and let stand about 30 minutes. Pour the pan juices thru a sieve and try to discard most of the fat. Add 3/4 cup of water to the roasting pan and deglaze, scraping up the brown bits. Add back the pan juices plus enough water to make 1 1/2 cups. Bring to a boil and pour over the pulled meat and cut up skin as you please. This may be the best part of the whole thing!

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Neapolitan Pork Chops Very simple 3-4 tbsp EVO 2-3 cloves garlic, thickly sliced 6 thin pork chops that have some visible fat 3 tbsp tomato paste a sprinkle of white wine 1 green finely chopped pepper you can substitute sliced red peppers 1 lb of thickly sliced mushrooms S/P

Three Little Piggies

Optionally, add in some hot pickled peppers and/or fresh red peppers In a heavy skillet heat the oil and brown the chops on both sides Sprinkle with s/p and add in the garlic- cook for 30 seconds Add the remaining ingredients, cover and simmer over low heat until tender 30 to 35 minutes

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Osso Buco There is no more elegant dinner than this, along with a big red wine and risotto or even plain rice. 4 or 5 pieces of veal shank (2 1/2 - 3 inches thick) flour 2 tbsp butter 3 tbsp EVO 1 carrot diced 3 scallions sliced 1 celery stalk diced 1 leek washed and sliced 2 1/2 cups of marsala wine S/P 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs of fresh thyme or 1 tsp dried 3/4 lb fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

Preheat oven to 350 Dry the meat and tie each piece with cord to hold the meat on the bone In a heavy casserole heat the butter/EVO, dredge the meat in flour and brown well on all sides, one piece at a time. Remove to a bowl. In the same pan cook the carrots, scallions, celery and leeks. When softened (not browned) add back the meat, raise the heat, pour in the Marsala, bring to a boil then turn off the heat. Add in the S/P, bay leaf and thyme, then cover the pot tightly with foil and put on the lid. Place in the oven for about 2 hours, turning the pieces now and then, until the veal is done and pulling away from the bone. Remove the meat to a warm bowl and cut off the strings. Strain the juices and take off some of the fat. Put the juices back in the pan along with the sliced mushrooms and simmer until done and the juices somewhat reduced. Correct for seasoning Pour the juices/mushrooms over the Osso Buco pieces Remember- the marrow in the bones is fabulous. Extract it with a small fork. Option: Dont strain the juices, leave the vegetables in and add the mushrooms, then cook down until the mushrooms are done and the sauce is somewhat thickened

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Pigs Knuckles Lyonnaise

Sometimes called ham hocks. They make an excellent addition to bean or lentil soups. In this recipe they should be unsmoked and fresh. The vinaigrette sauce is great as is any mustard, chutney, chimichuri, or other spicy sauce 2 quarts of water or light chicken stock 4 pigs knuckles 1 stalk of celery 1 carrot, cut in half 1 large onion, peeled and stuck with 1 clove salt 1 bay leaf 1 large sprig of parsley

Casa Botin Madrid 1960, 2000

Vinaigrette Sauce 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 3/4 cup EVO 1/2 tsp Dijon mustard 1/2 tsp dry mustard freshly ground black pepper 1 tbsp minced gherkin 2 tbsp minced green pepper 1 tbsp well-drained capers 2 tbsp minced scallions 1 tbsp minced fresh parsley

Combine in a flame proof casserole the knuckles, liquid, vegetables and spice. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until very tender, 1 1/2 - 2 hours. Remove knuckles to a cutting board and cut away any fatty parts and bone. The outer skin is FABULOUS, just scrape away excess fat. Keep warm. Sauce: In a small screw top container combine the oil, mustard, s/p and shake up until smooth. Add in the rest of the ingredients and stir or shake vigorously. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Pour the sauce over or on the side of the warm knuckles Note: The broth resulting from cooking the knuckles can thereafter be used to cook white beans or chickpeas. Why waste it?

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Saltimboca alla Romana 8 2 oz veal cutlets pounded with a wooden mallet to 1/8th inch thickness 2 or 3 thin slices of prociutto per cutlet (i.e. 16+) 2 fresh sage leaves per cutlet (i.e. 16) EVO unsalted butter S/P flour marsala wine 1/4 cup chicken stock 1 cup

Season the cutlets lightly Lay 2 or 3 thin slices of prociutto on top of each cutlet, pressing gently so that they adhere Place 2 sage leaves on top of the prociutto a few inches apart and attach each with a toothpick Dredge the cutlets in flour, shaking off any excess and set aside Heat 2 tbsp EVO and 2 tbsp unsalted butter in a 12 inch skillet with medium heat Cook each cutlet, prociutto side up, turning once until veal side is lightly browned and the prociutto side is relatively crisp about I minute per side Repeat for remaining cutlets, adding EVO/Butter as needed Put the cooked cutlets aside and remove the toothpicks. Drain any remaining oil/butter from the skillet, place over high heat and add the marsala, scraping around the browned bits until the wine is reduced by half (1 -2 minutes) Add the stock and reduce by half (about 3 minutes) Stir in 4 tbsp of unsalted butter and reduce the heat to medium

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Add the cutlets back to the skillet, turning occasionally until the sauce thickens somewhat A very good accompaniment is sauted (or just buttered) spinach and a potato galette

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Sausage & Broccoli Rabe Here you can use hot/sweet, or sausage that is filled with other things (cheese, broccoli rabe, etc.) 1 lb of sausage (or more), cut into 4 inch pieces 4 tbsp EVO 4 large cloves of garlic, cut thickly 1 or 2 bunches of broccoli rabe (cut off the ends ) chopped in thirds 1 cup of chicken broth S/P hot pepper flakes

Blanche the broccoli rabe for 2 - 3 minutes in a little boiling salted water Meantime, in a large iron frying pan heat the EVO and start cooking the sausage. Alternatively, broil them, then add to the pan. When almost done, add in the garlic, and a little later the broccoli (well drained ) Stir well so that the oil covers the broccoli, add s/p, then put in the broth and some crushed pepper flakes (to taste, but definitely some) Raise the heat for a minute then lower it and cover Stir periodically until the sausage and broccoli rabe are done Serve with a salad and toasted rustic bread OPTION: This way is a little drier and a little richer 1) 2) 3) 4) partially cook the broccoli, as above, then saut in the oil and garlic cut sausage into one inch rounds and broil until done. add sausage to the broccoli along with hot pepper flakes leave out the broth

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Stuffed Peppers The cleaned out peppers can be cut in half lengthwise of course or stuffed whole with just the tops cut off. Try using a mixture of green and red. The ground meat can be a mixture of pork, beef and veal, or pork/veal, or even just beef 4 peppers 2 cloves of garlic, minced 1/2 small onion, minced 1/4 cup EVO 1 oz dried porcini mushrooms soaked in warm water for 15 minutes 3/4 lb of ground meat as above 1/2 to 1 cup of fresh breadcrumbs-make your own, its very easy and better 2 tbsp chopped sage S/P 2 tbsp chopped parsley 1/2 cup grated pecorino cheese

Heat oven to 350 Heat the garlic and onions in 1/4 cup of the EVO until well golden then add in the drained chopped mushrooms, saving the juice. Saut a few minutes. Stir in the ground meats and cook until the color turns. Remove from the pan and discard any obvious fat, then drizzle in a few tablespoons of the reserved mushroom juice and simmer until reduced to a glaze. Turn off heat. Add back the meat mixture along with the breadcrumbs, seasoning and cheese. Mix well. Fill the peppers, drizzle on a little EVO and bake for 35 to 40 minutes Add either a little water or chicken broth to the baking dish for moisture Note: Nowhere is it written that you cant throw in a few capers if you wish. OR, put an anchovy across the top! These freeze nicely

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Tripe (Trippa) I know, I know. The thought of it is frightening. Actually, its delicious and can be done in many ways. There are several variations (Roman, Tuscan, Milanese etc). 2 lbs fresh tripe washed and scrubbed a little 1 onion, carrot and celery stick 2 - 3 slices salt pork or pancetta, chopped up 1/4 cup EVO or butter, or mixed 1 onion chopped 1 small carrot chopped 1 small celery stalk chopped 2 cups peeled, seeded plum tomatoes S/P

Place tripe in cold water to cover, add the onion, carrot and celery stick plus same salt Bring to a boil and simmer for 30 40 minutes (until tender). Cool a bit and cut into finger size pieces. Throw out the vegetables. Meanwhile, heat the butter/EVO, add in the salt pork and cook until translucent. Add in the chopped vegetables and cook until somewhat tender, then add in the tomatoes along with a little s/p. Parsley can be added as an option. Cook about 10 minutes then put in the cut up pieces of tripe and simmer an additional hour +/-. Add a little water if too thick. Serve hot with grated cheese, and a red wine with real character Hot pepper flakes to some degree should be included George Moore used to play this

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Veal Cutlets Milanese In Buenos Aires breaded cutlets usually beef are called milanesas, which I suppose reflects their Milan origen. These cutlets can also be made with Pork, chicken or beef. In any case, the cutlets have to well flattened with a heavy wide knife, frying pan etc. to break down the muscle tissue (ask the butcher to do this). If very thin, small cuts here and there along the edges will prevent the cutlets from curling up while frying. By the way, this also works beautifully with sliced eggplant Since they are very good at room temperature the cutlets can be done well ahead of time This is for 6 cutlets Pat the cutlets dry then dip them in 2 beaten, seasoned eggs. Then cover with unseasoned bread crumbs* and press down so that the crumbs adhere. If you have the time, let the cutlets sit in the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. It helps the crumbs adhere better. Heat 1/2 3/4 cup of sweet butter/vegetable oil (or maybe cut with a little olive oil) in a large frying pan until the butter begins to foam or until the oil is about to sizzle Cook briskly in the pan until a golden crust forms on the underside then turn carefully and repeat on the other side. If doing more than one cutlet at a time make sure they do not touch. Depending on the thickness, the process takes about 2 minutes per side These are excellent alone, with a galette of potato, sauted spinach or with a mixed salad placed on top. Even as a sandwich! * The best breadcrumbs are fresh and homemade. Cut off most of the crust from Italian bread and let the bread dry out in a warm oven. Break it down in a blender or roll the bread up in a towel and crush it with a pan or rolling pin. Herbs can be added.

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Veal & Peppers 2 lbs of stewing veal, cut up 4 tbsp EVO 1 or 2 onions, sliced 3/4 cup of dry white wine 2 cups of drained chopped tomatoes 1 1/2 Lbs of mixed red and green peppers S/P

Optional: 10 minutes before done, add in a cup of blanched fresh peas Saut the onions in the oil until translucent and then brown the veal in batches, removing the pieces once browned. Turn up the heat and deglaze with the wine until the liquid is reduced to about 1/4 cup. Add back the veal pieces and the tomatoes along with S/P. Bring to a boil and cook covered with medium heat for 30 minutes. Put in the cut up peppers and cook about another 30 minutes. The resulting sauce will nicely accommodate some cooked little pastas or sliced boiled potatoes. There is nothing that says you cant sprinkle in some hot red pepper flakes

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RABBIT lapin-coniglio-conejo
Always underestimated, in all its multiple forms Rabbit a la Jardinera We discovered this one in San Sebastian in August 2005 1 rabbit cut into 8 pieces, remove most of the visible fat 2 - 3 tbsp EVO 1 onion chopped 1 green pepper, seeded and chopped 2 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped - or a small can 1 bay leaf S/P - fresh ground pepper always 1 cup of white wine 2 - 3 cups of hot broth, beef or chicken 4 artichoke hearts cut in half 1 cup of peas, or more

In a heavy iron frying pan saut the onion/tomato/pepper (the soffritto) in the EVO until the onions are golden (about 10 minutes) Turn up the heat and add in the pieces of rabbit (dont forget the liver) and the bay leaf, stirring to cover the rabbit with the juices for a few minutes, then reduce heat 105

Add the s/p (a chopped hot pepper will add a little kick to the process) Add in the wine and cook 5 -6 minutes, stirring Add in the broth to cover, then the artichokes, then the peas Stir, cover and cook about 45 minutes Serve with a "big" red

You said a moment ago That Everybody You Look at Seems to be a Rabbit. Now Just What Do You Mean By That Mrs. Spraque?

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Roast Rabbit w/Mustard Sauce Lapin Roti A La Moutarde This could be the most popular French recipe for doing Bunny The Dijon mustard can be mild, hot or with seeds, as you wish Baked tomatoes go very well with this (as does a potato gratin) 3 tbsp EVO plus some for the roasting pan 6 tbsp Dijon Mustard one rabbit cut into 6 or 8 pieces 2 tbsp chopped fresh basil 1 tbsp chopped fresh oregano or savory 1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary S/P 10 garlic cloves, unpeeled

Onion Jus 2 onions finely chopped, 1/4 cup dry white wine, some chopped fresh parsley - this becomes the gravy to pour over the cooked bunny

Father Bob and Grandma Barrett

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Heat oven to 350 Mix the EVO and mustard in a bowl and brush generously on to the rabbit pieces, reserving some for basting Put the pieces into an oiled pan, sprinkle on a little oil then the basil, oregano, rosemary and s/p. Roast for about 45 minutes (until tender), adding the garlic cloves after the first 15 minutes. Baste a few times to prevent the meat from drying out. When the rabbit is done remove to a warm platter with the garlic and cover to keep moist Baked Tomatoes 2 large tomatoes 2 tbsp EVO plus some for the baking dish 3 tbsp of fresh bread crumbs 1 garlic clove, minced some fresh chopped parsley S/P

Cut the tomatoes in half (sideways) and scoop out some of the soft stuff then place them in an oiled baking dish, cut side up In a bowl mix together all the baked tomato ingredients and spread it on the cut tomatoes. These can be cooked in the oven with the rabbit, taking them out after about 12 15 minutes (when the skins split a little). Set aside and keep warm. Onion Jus Add the onions to the roasting pan and fry them on top of the stove with medium heat until golden (3 -5 minutes). Then add in the wine and bring to a boil, stirring. Toss in the parsley. Pour this over the rabbit Place the tomatoes along side

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Rabbit Le Petit Fontaine We have been going to the same restaurant - Le Petite Fontaine - for several years in Collobrieres. It is famous for its homemade chestnut ice cream. This rabbit is very simple, quick and delicious If frying Bunny bothers you, dark chicken pieces can be substituted 1 medium sized rabbit, cut into 8 pieces 1 cup of lardons - cubes of good bacon/pancetta/even capacollo can be substituted 1/4 cup of vegetable oil 15 - 20 un-peeled cloves of garlic 1 cup - more or less - of white wine Herbs de Provence, or your own mixture of rosemary/savory/thyme/oregano S/P

Salt and pepper the rabbit pieces and brown in the oil - along the way add the lardons and allow to 'melt down' a little Shaking the pan constantly, add in the unpeeled garlic and cover the pan After one minute de-glaze the pan with the wine then add in a good sprinkling of the herbs Continue to shake the pan so that the rabbit is constantly turned The pan should be partially covered Continue to cook and shake until tender, about 1/2 hour This goes very well with sauted mushrooms Le Petite Fontaine serves it with Tomatoes Provencale and Potatoes au Gratin When you go to Collobrieres you have to visit the Chartreuse de La Verne monastery which is about a 20 minute drive thru the woods

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SWIMMERS
In June 1972 we drove to Iguazu. We stopped here on the way back to fish. Paul and I caught this Dorado and we all had it for dinner, including Don Julian.

de la Patria Upper Parana

Paso

Baccala/Salt Cod
Pre-soaked salt cod baccala, that is cooked in some form of tomato/marinara sauce to which is added hot pepper flakes and wrinkled black olives is about as good as it gets. This is excellent as a main course alone or as a pasta sauce. Baccala in Guazzetto (in Marinara sauce) The difference here is the flour dusting. Otherwise it is a simmering marinara sauce into which pieces of baccala have been added. There is nothing wrong with just frying the fish (dusted with flour) in oil as a side or main course. See the Fritto Misto recipe.

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1 3/4 lbs. of baccala - soaked for about 36 hours, changing water frequently - then cut into bite sizes 4 onions sliced paper thin 1 28 oz can of tomatoes hand full of finely chopped parsley 3 tbsp white flour S/P 9 oz olive oil for frying 4 tbsp EVO for the sauce

Toss the fish in the flour, shake off any excess and fry in the heated olive oil until golden Dry off on paper towels Heat the 4 tbsp of EVO in a sauce pan, add the onions and saut until translucent Add the crushed tomatoes (without the juices) and season with S/P Add a pinch of sugar and cook over low heat for about 15 minutes Add the fried baccala to the sauce Serve hot, garnished with flat leaf parsley Chick peas cooked with garlic, onions and EVO compliment this very nicely

Christmas 1971 Punta del Este

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Baccala Mantecato We have here the Italian version of Brandade de Morue It has multiple applications: on toasted bread/crackers, on polenta, it can be made into patties (breaded and fried), on top of a mixed salad, or as a sauce for pasta (see next recipe) 1 lb of boneless salt cod 1 medium russet potato (about 1/2 lb) 2 large cloves of garlic, finely minced 1 cup EVO 1/2 cup of light cream or half & half freshly ground black pepper

Soak the cod in cold water 36 hours or more (not more than 48 hours), changing the water 4 or 5 times per 24 hours. The cod will almost double in size and be softly resistant to the touch. Cut the soaked cod in 5 to 6 inch pieces and place in a sauce pan or deep skillet with at least an inch of water to cover Bring to a boil with the cover ajar and cook at a steady strong simmer for about 20 minutes, until the cod is easy to flake. Don't overcook. Lift out, drain and let cool in a colander, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water Meanwhile, put the cleaned un-peeled whole potato in cold water and cook - then let cool and peel Flake the cod and place in a mixing bowl and beat at a slow speed to break up the fish Add in the garlic and pour in (while the beater is going) 1/2 of the EVO in a slow stream, then Add the potato and after that gradually add the rest of the EVO Raise speed to high and whip the mixture to lighten it Reduce speed to medium, add in the cream, then increase speed again and whip until smooth

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If it is a little dense, add in some of the cooking water then season with the ground pepper This can be kept in the refrigerator for a week, or frozen TRY THIS, from Barcelona Spread Baccala Mantecato on grilled polenta wedges and serve with roasted red peppers. A typical PINTXO!

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Baccala Mantecato with Pasta 1/3 cup EVO 3 large garlic cloves, sliced 1 pinch of dried hot pepper flakes 1 cup, or more, of Baccala Mantecato 1/4 tsp salt freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley

Pour the oil in a large skillet, scatter in the garlic over medium heat, stirring frequently - don't darken the garlic Sprinkle in the red pepper flakes and after a minute lower the heat and stir in the baccala Meanwhile start cooking the pasta - linguine, tagliatelle, etc, or gnocchi - and ladle about 2 cups of the hot pasta water into the skillet and stir Bring to a boil, add s/p and add into the skillet the cooked/drained pasta Toss in the parsley and serve Additionally, fresh roasted bread crumbs can be sprinkled over the top Alternative: Wait to stir in the baccala until the pasta is done, pour the pasta into the skillet, add chopped parsley and some pasta water, then the baccala Add more parsley and the bread crumbs if desired

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Roses Baccala Salad This is more of a first course or hors d'oeuvre than a typical salad It can also be made in smaller quantities by adjusting the details 1 1/2 lbs of pre-soaked salt cod 3 celery ribs, thinly sliced crosswise 1 tbsp minced garlic 1/4 cup of chopped green olives (with the pimento stuffed inside) 1/4 cup of chopped kalamata olives (pits removed!) 1/3 cup of chopped fresh - or bottled - pimentos 1/2 cup of fresh flat leaf parsley 1/2 cup of fresh basil leaves 3 tbsp of lemon juice 1 tsp of red wine vinegar 1/2 tsp of sugar 3 tbsp EVO

Cut the cod into large pieces and place in a large frying pan with water to cover Bring water to a boil then reduce to a strong simmer, slightly covered, for about 20 minutes - until cod is easy to flake. Don't overcook. Remove cod to a platter to cool slightly, then Shred the cod and stir together with the celery, garlic, olives (both), roasted peppers, parsley and basil Separately, stir together the lemon juice, vinegar, sugar and EVO and pour over the cod mixture Season with freshly ground black pepper and chill, covered, for about 1 1/2 hours This will keep a couple of days Serve with toasted hard crust bread along with a fine chablis/chardonnay

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Baccala on Toast 1/2 lb of pre-soaked baccala, cut into 1 inch slices 4 or 5 tbsp EVO 2 large cloves of garlic, sliced 4 or 5 (or more) cippolini onions, cut in half, sideways 1 or 2 bay leaves sugar red wine vinegar(or white) flat leaf parsley hot pepper flakes - optional S/P

Saut the fish with s/p and garlic in EVO, turning the fish just once, until golden, then add the pepper flakes and remove to a warm plate and sprinkle with parsley

Upper Parana - 1972

Saut salted cippolini in the same pan, adding more EVO if necessary, until slightly darkened, add bay leaves Sprinkle over about 1 tsp of sugar, stirring Add in a couple of tbsp of red wine vinegar and simmer until onions are tender Toast slices of Italian bread, drizzle on a little EVO Spoon the onion mixture on the toast and place baccala on top

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Calamari Lyonnaise Ligure, an old Italian restaurant in Buenos Aires, serves this In Argentina you can find a very small form of calamari that arent available in the U.S. You have to substitute the smallest ones you can find and use more fingers (tentacles). 1/4 cup EVO 1 medium chopped onion/shallot 1/2 lb small calamari, bodies thinly sliced 1 large potato diced into 1/2 inch cubes and dried 2 cloves garlic, chopped thyme a sprinkle S/P

Cook the onions and garlic in the EVO until very translucent seasoning with some salt along the way. Add in the diced potatoes and thyme. Let them brown up a bit until tender. At this point add in the calamari, turn up the heat to medium, stir well and cook covered, a couple of minutes only. Season again to taste The result should be moist and rich but with little visible liquid Note: As an option you can add in after the calamari are slightly cooked, a little chicken broth but at the end it should have cooked down to almost nothing Hot pepper flakes can be added

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Stuffed Calamari with Peas & Sun Dried Tomatoes 1 lb fresh peas, shelled to yield 3/4 cup 8 large whole calamari, about 1/2 lb 1/4 cup of EVO 2 or 3 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced 1/2 cup of sun dried tomatoes soaked 1/2 hour in warm water- chopped 1 1/2 cups of fresh bread crumbs salt and freshly ground pepper 1 bunch of finely chopped flat leaf parsley, about 1/4 cup 1 1/2 cups of white wine 1 cup of basic marinara sauce

Preheat oven to 375 Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil, add 1 tbsp of salt Set up an ice bath nearby Add peas to boiling water and blanch for 30 seconds, then drain, place in ice bath for a minute and set aside Clean the calamari and finely chop the tentacles Remove any inside matter being careful not to cut into the sides In a large saut pan heat the oil until almost smoking, add the calamari tentacles and cook until opaque (30-45 seconds) Add the peas, garlic and sun dried tomatoes and stir through, about 1 minute Add the bread crumbs and stir in to coat Season with s/p add the parsley, mix and set aside to cool When cool stuff the mixture into each of the calamari until almost full and place in an earthenware pan just large enough to hold them and the sauce Add the wine and tomato sauce, stir to settle and bake covered for 35 minutes

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Braised Squid/Tomatoes/Chiles & Swiss Chard Most squid recipes call for quick cooking over high heat. This is slow food. 1/2 cup EVO 1/2 small red onion-minced 1 small carrot & celery stick-minced 3 cloves of garlic-minced 1/2 cup of dry white wine 28 oz can of tomatoes 1 jalapeno pepper, cut up 2 lbs of squid with tentacles, cut up 1 or 2 bunches of Swiss chard(leaves only) zest of 1 small lemon

Crush the tomatoes, removing as much water as possible Heat 1/3 cup of the EVO and saut the onion, carrot and celery until soft, then add 1/2 the garlic & the wine. Stir over medium heat until reduced by half. Add the crushed tomatoes and bring to a fast simmer. Add S/P and the jalapeno. Add in the squid, bring to a quick boil, reduce heat to a very low simmer, cover and cook until tender-about 45-50 minutes Meanwhile, cook the cut up chard in boiling salted water (2-3 minutes), squeeze out excess liquid Heat the remaining oil in a skillet, add the rest of the garlic plus the lemon zest. Stir then add in the chard and simmer 3-4 minutes. Add this mixture to the squid pan and simmer 4-5 minutes more. Turn off heat and let rest for about 10 minutes. If desired, this can be served over toasted Italian bread

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FRESH COD
Baked Cod with Onions & Potatoes 1 1/2 lbs of fresh cod, at least 3/4 inch thick 3 or 4 tbsp of melted butter 3 medium/large onions, thinly sliced 3 or 4 tbsp EVO 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 lbs of new potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/8 inch rounds 3 sprigs of fresh thyme, or a little dried thyme 1/2 cup of chopped flat leaf parsley S/P Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees Grease a baking dish with a little of the melted butter and lay in the fish along with some salt and freshly ground pepper In a bowl blend the sliced onions, garlic, thyme plus some salt and pepper

In a frying pan heat the EVO and saut the onions, etc for 3 or 4 minutes, then add in the parsley Scatter the onion mixture over and around the cod Add some additional EVO to the frying pan and cook the potatoes with some salt, stirring for about 10 minutes Spoon the potatoes over the fish and pour on the remaining melted butter Bake for 25 minutes, basting from time to time TRY THIS INSTEAD - Pat dry one inch cod filets, add S/P, dip in beaten eggs then press on fresh breadcrumbs. Fry/cook (medium heat) the filets in a mixture of EVO and butter, turning once. Sprinkle on fresh parsley and serve with your choice of sauted greens and boiled parsley potatoes! A chilled white burgundy rounds things out. All this is fast, simple and vastly underestimated. 120

Cod, Potato & Fennel Casserole You can substitute soaked baccala instead of cod for a richer taste 2 medium fennel bulbs (cut off stalks but save some of the fronds for garnish) 1 1/2 lbs large boiling potatoes 3 large garlic cloves, minced 1 tsp sea or kosher salt 1/4 tsp ground black pepper 6 or 7 tbsp EVO 2 lbs skinless cod fillets ( 1 inch thick, cut into 6 portions)

Preheat oven to 400 Cut fennel bulbs crosswise into 1/8 inch slices Peel and cut potatoes crosswise into 1/8 inch slices Transfer fennel and potatoes to a shallow baking dish and toss with garlic, s/p, and 4 tbsp of EVO Spread the vegetables evenly and bake, covered with foil until tender - 25 to 30 minutes Season the cod with s/p and arrange on top of the vegetables Drizzle with the remaining EVO and bake, uncovered until cod is just cooked thru - 12 to 15 minutes

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Cod, Potato & Hard Boiled Egg This is a variation I even prefer it to the previous cod/potato recipe. It has a more Spanish/Portugese overtone. Baccala can be substituted. 1 lb of cod, thickly cut 1/4 cup EVO/butter 1 large onion sliced 1 large potato, boiled and peeled 1 cup or less chicken broth parsley, chopped S/P 1 hardboiled egg

Cook the onions in the oil until translucent at least 10 minutes

The famous Rouget incident

Put in the cod for the more adventurous soaked salt cod (baccala) offers a different dimension coat well with the oil, raise the heat, add s/p and then the broth. Simmer covered until the cod barely flakes. Sprinkle in the parsley and then the potato, cut into large pieces. Stir to cover the potato with the oil/broth. Cut the hardboiled egg into 2 or 3 pieces and stir in gently

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Fritto Misto di Pesce (Mixed Fried Fish) Most any small fish or crustaceans work with this. It is great for Hors doeuvres, lunch or a main course. It is very common to serve this on Christmas Eve. The amounts and kind of each type depend only on your preference small squid - the tentacles alone, or also with bodies cut into rings medium size shrimp - whole or shelled and de-veined smelts - cleaned but with the heads attached baccala - desalinized in water etc. and cut into 2 - 3 inch pieces flour vegetable oil, alone or mixed with olive oil salt lemon wedges

Chappaquiddick

Dry off all the candidates and dredge by shaking in a bag with the flour Bring the frying oil to high heat - 375 degrees - and fry each type individually until golden and crisp The more oil you use the better, so that the pieces cook quickly and thus absorb less oil Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt Serve on a warm platter with lemon wedges along with a crisp cool white wine

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Frutta di Mare There are multiple variations on this, because once you make the basic 'sauce' any fish/ crustacean can be added 15 or 20 mussels 1 dozen little neck clams 1/4 lb(or more) calamari fingers (not the bodies) 6 medium fresh shrimp 4 tbsp EVO 1 large white onion thinly sliced 2 cloves of garlic thinly sliced 1 hand full of chopped flat leaf parsley 1/2 cup (or a little more) white wine a sprinkle of sea salt fresh ground black pepper

Saut salted onions slowly in the oil until quite translucent- 10 minutes or so Add garlic slices, simmer 1 or 2 minutes Turn up heat and add the wine. After a minute or two lower the heat and add in the parsley and simmer 1 minute. Although not called for, nothing stops you at this point from adding in a small amount of crushed tomatoes or a trifle of tomato paste. Add in the mussels, cover and simmer 3 or 4 minutes or until they start to open Add in the clams, cover and simmer until they start to peek open Add in the calamari fingers, cover and simmer until somewhat translucent - 2 or 3 minutes (longer if sliced bodies are included) Add in the shrimp, cover and simmer until shrimp are done - maybe four or five minutes Ground black pepper Never, never add grated cheese This recipe can be used as is, or can be added to cooked pasta In any event the resulting juice (liquor) is so good that it can be drunk alone!

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Hake and Bake Incredibly simple and great for company Heat oven to 350 4 pieces of hake or any flaking fish 1 to 2 inches thick EVO S/P lemon juice Herbs de Provence, fine herbs or thyme(fresh is better) Panko bread crumbs, or your own Dry the pieces, brush with the oil and add s/p Drizzle on some lemon juice, pat on the herbs then roll the fish in the crumbs Bake for about 20 minutes

San Sebastian

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Shrimp & Fennel This is not only great but most of it can be made ahead of time, with the shrimp added later. Great for company. 1/2 cup EVO 1 fennel bulb sliced lengthwise in 1/2 inch pieces 2 or 3 cloves of garlic thickly sliced 1/2 cup white wine pinch of saffron optional salt 3/4 lb (more or less) of uncooked shelled medium shrimp hot pepper to taste

Heat the oil, add the fennel and saut until it takes on a good bit of color, adding in the garlic along the way. Once browned, raise heat and put in the wine. After a minute, lower the heat and sprinkle in the saffron and salt. This can all be done in advance. When ready, bring the shrimp to room temperature raise heat to medium and toss into the fennel, etc. Stir well and add desired pepper (heat!). Dont overcook! Potatoes of all sorts accompany this

La Rambla Barcelona

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Shrimp Fra Diavolo You can do this in about 45 minutes 1/3 cup EVO 16 large shrimp, peeled and deveined 6 cloves of garlic, minced 3 shallots, chopped 6 oz of cherry tomatoes, or small cut up tomatoes(squeezed) 1 1/2 cups of canned tomatoes, crush up 1 2/3 cups dry white wine (or a little less) 1 sprig of oregano, chopped salt & freshly ground black pepper 2 sprigs chopped parsley 3/4 tsp hot pepper flakes 1/2 lb of bucatini or linguine

Sospel

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat, then add in the shrimp and cook turning once, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add garlic and shallots to the skillet and cook until soft, 7-8 minutes Add all the tomatoes, wine and oregano and season to taste. Simmer, stirring from time to time until the tomatoes are soft and the sauce is thickened,about 25 minutes. Cook the pasta al dente of course and reserve 1/4 cup of the water Add to the skillet the parsley, pepper flakes, pasta, reserved pasta water and the shrimp. Toss well.

127

Shrimp in Marinade A nice hors doeuvre from Janice and very simple 3 lbs shrimp, peeled & cleaned 1 cup vegetable oil 3/4 cup apple cider vinegar 1/4 cup capers 1/2 tsp salt, 1/8 tsp pepper 1/4 cup sugar Juice of I lemon 1 tbsp Worcestershire Sauce 1 Bay Leaf 1/2 tsp garlic powder 1/4 dry mustard 1/2 tsp parsley, chopped 2 medium onions, thinly sliced

Put the shrimp in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes then drain and let sit in the marinade overnight

128

Baked Rollatini of Sole Elegant for company and very simple 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/4 cup chopped parsley 2 tsp oregano 1 lemon grated, then slice half into rounds and juice half 6 tbsp EVO 2 tbsp sweet butter 1 cup white wine 6 filets of sole 2 tbsp capers

Heat oven to 350 degrees Mix together the crumbs, cheese, parsley, oregano and lemon zest then drizzle with some EVO and toss around Coat a baking dish with soft butter. Put in the lemon slices, the juice and the wine. On a cutting board lay down the fish, add a little s/p and press on the bread crumb mixture. Proceed to roll up the filets (mixture inside) and seal with a couple of toothpicks. Place them in the baking dish on top of the sliced lemons along with the capers plus about 2 tbsp of the EVO Bake uncovered about 20 minutes. Remove the toothpicks. A potato gratin and mixed salad go very nicely, along with a white burgundy

129

Sauted Filets of White Fish Here is a simple quick and classic way to saut filet of fish 4 filets of lemon sole or other white fish 2 tbsp EVO 5 tbsp sweet butter flour for dusting 5 cloves of crushed garlic 1 cup +/- dry white wine 2 tbsp lemon juice 3 tbsp of capers parsley

In a skillet heat the EVO and 3 tbsp of butter. Season the filets with s/p, dredge in the flour and brown quickly on both sides ( i.e. cook). Remove to a warm platter. Sauce Increase the heat to medium/high and scatter in the garlic. After a minute add the wine/lemon juice and let the mixture come to a boil. Add in the capers and 2 tbsp of butter then wisk and boil down to about half (maybe 2 or 3 minutes). Season with s/p, take out the garlic and add in the parsley. Pour this over the warm filets. Sauted Filets w/Salsa Verde Eugenias method is: Heat EVO in a pan and when very hot add in a small chopped onion and cook until translucent Add in the minced garlic, maybe 3 cloves Now put in the salted filets and move around When almost done stir in a bunch of well chopped parsley and cook quickly Note: You can always make this green sauce separately by cooking the onion then adding in the garlic and chopped parsley which can then be used for fish or meat dishes. Its a kind of Spanish pesto!

130

Sauted Whitefish (Merluzzo) Any small whole whitefish such as smelts will do around 8 to12 inches 2 or 3 cleaned fish heads, tails intact EVO Flour S/P

Clean fish in cold water and dry completely Toss the victims in the flour to which S/P has been added. Shake off excess flour. Heat the oil in an iron skillet (maybe a 1/2 inch of oil) until it splatters when you toss in a few drops of water Add the fish and cook until done, turning very carefully to avoid breaking them up Remove and place on paper towels until serving time A twist of lemon Perhaps a potato galette and some sauted greens?

Aunt Monica Lake George

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VEGETABLES
A string bean and his wife are driving home when they have this terrible crash. At the hospital a team of doctors miraculously saves his life. The head surgeon announces to his wife he will live. but will always be a vegetable. One of the most basic ways to treat vegetables is to cook them in a little boiling salted water then saut them in garlic and olive oil This is particularly true for spinach, broccoli, cauliflower (sometimes mixed with broccoli), Swiss chard, beet greens, dandelion, escarole, broccoli rabe, kale, and cabbage among others Heat enough EVO to cover the bottom of the frying pan and add in slices of garlic (not chopped since they will burn faster). Cook until golden, not dark.

Add in the cut up, slightly cooked vegetables. In the case of spinach and Swiss chard, particularly, squeeze out as much moisture as you can. Add S/P and - optionally - some hot pepper flakes and stir Cook with a medium to high flame Important Note: Cook dandelion or escarole in a little salted water and save the juice. Heated up, it is better, and better for you than any cup of tea. For those in search of a non-alcoholic ante-prandium, dandelion or escarole juice merits your serious consideration.

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ARTICHOKES

Artichokes have sufficient personality so that they need very few additives Basically, a little olive oil and parsley can do the trick. Sauted Baby Artichokes 8 baby artichokes 1/4 cup of EVO 2 large cloves of garlic, sliced 1/2 cup or so of chicken broth 2-3 tbsp of chopped parsley S/P

One at a time, snap off the outer, tougher leaves of the artichokes, cut off the tops, peel the stems, then slice them in half lengthwise As each one is done place them either in lemon water or immediately in the frying pan with the EVO (otherwise they will blacken from the air) If you use the lemon water method, when all are ready rinse them off, dry them and add to the oil along with the garlic Mix well to cover the artichokes with the oil then add in the chicken broth Add S/P and the parsley and simmer covered until tender - not mushy - about 15 minutes depending on thickness and freshness 133

If baby artichokes are not available, 2 or 3 normal globe artichokes are fine. After peeling, pruning, etc they should be cut in half lengthwise then any furry center should be removed and then cut lengthwise again - and even again depending on the size

Artichokes Fried in Batter These are great as a side dish or hors doeuvres Trim and thinly slice baby artichokes (vertically). Dip the pieces in flour, then salted beaten eggs (as an option you can then roll them in breadcrumbs), then fry them in hot oil until done i.e. a minute on each side. OR just dip the slices in egg and then roll them in the breadcrumbs. Also, see bottom note of Eggplant Parmigiana recipe. Artichokes with Curry Sauce 1 globe artichoke mayonnaise curry powder

Break off the outer leaves, cut off the top 1/2 inch or so, cut off the stem Cook the artichoke in boiling salted water (to cover ) until the outer leaves pull off easily(they also can be steamed) Drain and cool to room temperature In a cup, mix together the mayonnaise with enough curry powder - spicey or normal - to suit your taste Place artichoke on a serving plate with a dollop of the mixture

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Stuffed Artichokes An excellent first course or side dish, usually served at room temperature 1 fresh globe artichoke breadcrumbs grated parmesan cheese chopped parsley a pinch of chopped garlic EVO S/P

Break off the outer leaves of the artichoke, cut off the top 1/2 inch or so, cut off the stem Blend together the crumbs, cheese, parsley, S/P and garlic Squeeze the artichoke a little to open the leaves then sprinkle in the mixture to more or less fill the spaces, then drizzle over a little EVO In a cooking pot ideally just big enough to hold the number of artichokes being prepared, add about 1 inch of water and a tbsp of EVO Bring to a boil then simmer covered until the outer leaves pull off easily, about 25 minutes. Alternatively, they can be put on a rack and steamed, about 35-40 minutes.

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CONSIDER THE BEAN

In most cases the recipes can inter-change most any shelled beans. For a more detailed and erudite analysis read Richard Olneys Simple French Food (page 180). White Beans with Oil & Sage Canned cannellini beans work just fine, or you can soak dried white beans overnight then cook in boiling unsalted water until done. Fresh cranberry beans are also excellent. In either case drain off any liquid, place the beans in a bowl and drizzle on a very good EVO Add s/p to taste and crumble in some chopped fresh sage Hot pepper flakes are a pleasant option Serve at room temperature

136

White Beans w/Tuna Fish (Fagioli col Tonno) Cook almost 2 cups of white beans*, drain well and pour in about a half cup of good quality olive oil. Add in 2 cans/jars of the best tuna you can afford. Mix well and then add in a small chopped red or sweet onion. Season with S/P. Optionally, a little chopped celery can be thrown in, and some capers for that matter. An excellent luncheon dish, served with toasted bread *Salt should not be added to the beans cooking water until the last 10 15 minutes since it makes the skin tough

The ladies from Geraci Marina Aunt Teresa and Grandma Rose

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Escarole & Beans A very flexible dish: it can be served on the side or as a first or main course if you add cooked small pasta Dont forget to save some of the escarole juice for the cocktail hour! 1 head of fresh escarole 1/4 cup - or more - of EVO 1 large onion, thinly sliced 2 large garlic cloves, sliced 1 can of cannellini beans - or you can soak dried white or cranberry beans overnight then cook them S/P hot pepper flakes optional

Cut the well-rinsed escarole into thirds and cook in 1 or 2 cups of salted water, dont overcook Meanwhile saut the onions in the EVO, later adding the garlic When the onions are nicely soft, add in the drained escarole plus enough of the juice to well moisten the mixture Stir over medium heat for a minute or so then add in the beans, some of which you have mashed up, and some of the liquid from the beans Add a few pepper flakes, to taste Serve with grated cheese Option: Saut the onions, etc. along with some cut up pancetta or capacollo, then proceed as above

138

Fava Beans 1)Boil fresh fava beans in unsalted water, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and remove the outer layer of skin. While they are still warm puree with a wooden spoon in a good amount of sweet butter. S/P to taste. Among other things,very good on toast. 2) In Tomato Sauce Cook and shell 2 lbs of beans as above, then add some salt Sauce: 1 onion chopped 1 slice of lean salt pork (or pancetta, lardons) chopped 1 celery stalk chopped some fresh chopped parsley 2 tbsp EVO 2 lbs fresh plum tomatoes, or 4 cups canned (cut into chunks) S/P

Pound the onion, pork, celery and parsley into a semi-paste (battuto) and saut in the oil until golden ( in a pan large enough to hold the tomatoes and beans) If using fresh tomatoes: drop them in boiling water for a couple of minutes then drain, peel and cut into chunks Add the tomatoes to the battuto and simmer about 45 minutes, along with s/p When the sauce has thickened add the beans, stir in and simmer until ready 3) With Tuna - this makes a very nice summer dish Cook and shell 3 lbs of beans as above, adding salt, or use 2 1 lb cans (drained) Now combine the beans 7 oz can of Italian tuna 4 tbsp EVO S/P 2-3 tbsp wine vinegar

139

Drain the tuna and put in a bowl with the beans, mixing in the oil, s/p and vinegar Cannellini beans fresh or canned are an excellent variation Possible additions You can add any or all of: 1 firm tomato - quartered 1 medium Spanish onion - chopped 2 celery stalks - slivered 1 small cucumber thinly cut 1/2 green or red pepper thinly cut more EVO and S/P to taste

140

Braised Endive In this case endive is interchangeable with fennel (cut into quarters) Brown the whole endives in EVO then add chicken broth to about half way S/P Cover and simmer until done not over done about 25 minutes An excellent accompaniment to all kinds of chicken, steak, etc.

Celery Root Remoulade Celery root is unrelated to celery, it is a separate vegetable. This remoulade makes a nice accompaniment to cold lunches or grilled meat. It is very bad on your tie. 2 medium size celeriac bulbs (celery root) 1 cup of mayonnaise 1 tbsp of Dijon mustard, or even more 1 tbsp of lemon juice (or more), red wine vinegar is an option freshly ground black pepper and salt, to taste

Peel the bulbs and clean off the brown spots. Then slice up the bulbs, quite thinly - sometimes this is called julienne the grating device on the Cuisinart works well for this. Combine the mustard/mayonnaise and season to taste with the lemon juice Mix well and let stand in the refrigerator until serving

141

Cipolline Onions & Balsamic Vinegar Any small white (round) onions will do, but the cipolline are best. A handful will make a nice side dish for two. Peel the onions and place in a skillet with already heated olive oil maybe 2 tbsp. Stir and add 1 or 2 tbsp of balsamic vinegar. S/P. Cover the pan and simmer about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Most of the liquid should cook down. Another version uses butter, brown sugar and wine vinegar: To a little heated butter add slightly boiled pearl onions and cook for about ten minutes, until tender. Add in salt and some brown sugar, stirring well. Once the onions have developed a glaze add a tablespoon- as you like of wine vinegar, bring back to a boil, lower heat and cook about 5 minutes until the sauce is thickened.

Spanish Grilled Onion This is great with grilled or boiled meats. 4 to 6 large Spanish onions 2 tbsp parsley 2 tsp of fresh, chopped basil, or 1/2 1 tsp dried 1/4 cup EVO S/P

Peel and then boil the onions for 10 minutes. They should be tender but not overcooked. Then drain them and cut crosswise. Place them under the broiler after sprinkling with the parsley, EVO, basil and s/p. Broil well away from the flame for 10 15 minutes, until tender and ever so slightly turning. Before serving, sprinkle on a little more oil and, optionally, lemon juice. There is nothing wrong with substituting dried oregano for the basil

142

Eggplant Parmigiana 1 or more good sized fresh, firm eggplants - cut into 1/4 inch slices EVO/vegetable oil flour marinara sauce thinly sliced or grated mozzarella - optional grated parmesan cheese optional: bread crumbs, hardboiled egg (thinly sliced)

Salt each eggplant slice on both sides then place all of them into a colander, under a heavy weight for 15 - 20 minutes. This will squeeze out any bitterness. Then wipe off the salt and any remaining moisture. This step is not necessary if the eggplants are reasonably fresh. The important thing here is to brown the eggplant in the oil without letting it absorb too much of the oil Heat about 1/4 inch of oil in a heavy frying pan until almost smoking, then lightly flour a slice of eggplant (both sides) and drop in the pan - put in as many as can fit the pan without touching Brown quickly on both sides - they don't have to be cooked thru - then place each slice on a paper towel to absorb the excess oil. Salt them lightly. In an oven proof baking dish or shallow casserole spread a thin layer of marinara sauce - try to have the sauce on the thick side - then a layer of the eggplant. Spread around some sauce and sprinkle on(if you wish) a little mozzarella and some parmesan cheese. Repeat this process - eggplant, sauce, cheeses - until you have three (maximum 4 ) levels - finish with sauce Hard boiled eggs - this adds a rich touch - place slices on top of each interior eggplant layer On the top of the finished casserole you can sprinkle on bread crumbs Heat the oven to 350 and cook the casserole uncovered about 15 minutes This can be served warm, cooled, or at room temperature. It can be a main course or side dish, even served with pasta. Option: Artichoke Parmigiana is fabulous. Vertically slice baby artichokes into 1/4 inch pieces, douse in flour, dip in beaten egg and fry in oil until well browned. Dry off then proceed as with eggplant slices.

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Eggplant Sandwich A unique luncheon choice - served hot or at room temperature 1 large eggplant, unpeeled, cut crosswise into 1/2 inch slices 1 1/2 cups bread crumbs 1/3 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley 1/2 lb thinly sliced mortadella 1/2 lb provolone cheese, thinly sliced 2 eggs, slightly beaten 1/4 cup EVO salt

Place the eggplant slices in a bowl, salting each layer. Weight them down for about half an hour in order to force out excess moisture (not necessary if the eggplant is fresh). Wipe off the slices and dry with paper towels. Combine the breadcrumbs, parmesan, parsley and a little salt and set aside Quickly brown- in a little EVO the eggplant, then sandwich 2 slices of mortadella and 1 slice of provolone between 2 slices of eggplant. Dip these sandwiches into the beaten egg, and then into the breadcrumbs. Put oven at 350. Pour the EVO into a large baking dish and heat for a few minutes. Place the sandwiches in the pan and bake for 15 minutes on each side. Note: You can substitute the mortadella/provolone with anchovy/salami or prociutto/mozzarella. Live on the edge!

144

Fennel with Butter & Parmesan Cheese Did you know that fennel (finocchio) is one of the worlds oldest edible plants? Freshly cut, raw it makes a great addition to any green salad. This one is very simple, just butter and cheese salt 8 small fennel bulbs, trimmed and quartered 5 tbsp of sweet butter freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese

Place the cut up fennel in boiling salted water and cook until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Drain. Heat the butter in a large skillet over medium heat, then add the fennel and season to taste. Cook, turning occasionally, until tender, maybe 15 minutes. Transfer to a warm plate and sprinkle on the cheese

145

POTATOES
On Easter Sunday in Callian a few years ago we had dinner at the Sevoss and they invited some Swedish friends who brought the first course: Vodka 2 kinds, lemon and regular more would be better Herring 3 different types Potatoes boiled, fingerling

You had a piece of herring, drank a shot of vodka, and ate a potato This was repeated several times. No one was even tipsy and it was quite enjoyable. It must have been the potatoes Fingerling Potatoes Boil fingerling potatoes in salted water, then slice in half lengthwise While still warm mix the potatoes with salt, fresh ground pepper, sage and rosemary Saut the potatoes in goose or duck fat. You always have this in the fridge, right? Another way: Cut a round of parchment paper to fit inside a 12 inch heavy skillet and butter one side. Slice potatoes into 1/8 inch coins and arrange in the skillet. Add 2 cups of water, 3/4 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp pepper, Dot the top with butter. Cover with the parchment (buttered side down) and briskly simmer until the liquid evaporates, 30-35 minutes. Sprinkle on chopped parsley.

146

Galette of Potato In a 10 inch iron skillet heat a small amount of equal parts of sweet butter and olive oil then turn up the heat Cover the bottom with overlapping thinly sliced potatoes which have been patted dry to remove the moisture. Sprinkle on S/P, hot pepper flakes and some rosemary and/or thyme. Repeat with another layer of potatoes etc. and drizzle around additional butter/oil When the bottoms are well browned, place a plate over the top, flip over and slide the potatoes back into the skillet. Cook until done. Alternatively, instead of flipping just place the skillet under the broiler and cook until done As a perky little option you can sprinkle a little freshly ground nutmeg on to the first layer of potatoes instead of the above mentioned herbs

147

Gratin of Celery Root & Potatoes Instead of plain mashed potatoes, try this. You could also substitute turnips for the celery root. 1 lb of celery root, peeled, cut into large cubes 1 lb of Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered salt 5 tbsp of cold butter freshly ground black pepper

Boil the celery root in salted water about 10 minutes, then add the potatoes and cook until both are tender, +/- 30 minutes more Preheat oven to 375 Drain the vegetables, save some of the water Puree the vegetables in a ricer, adding some of the water if very thick. Stir in 3 tbsp of the butter with a wooden spoon and add in more of the water to form a loose, not quite pour-able puree. S/P. Spread into a buttered gratin dish, ripple the top with the wooden spoon and distribute thin shavings of the remaining butter over the surface Bake for about 20 minutes, until surface is lightly golden Option: Cut celery root and potatoes into cubes and cook separately in salted water until done. Put both thru a ricer and mix in plenty of heavy cream, butter, salt and black pepper. Mashed Potatoes w/Pancetta & Scallions Make mashed potatoes as usual, mixed with some cream/milk, butter + S/P Chop up 2 or 3 thin slices of pancetta and cook until somewhat flakey with a little EVO When done add in some chopped scallions and cook a minute or so Add this mixture to the warm potatoes

148

Potatoes Anna 4 or 5 Potatoes, peeled and cut 1/4 inch thick 4 or 5 tbsp melted butter salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 425 Put about 1 tbsp of butter in an 8 or 10 inch frying pan. Pat the cut potatoes dry and place in the pan, making sure to overlap the slices until the bottom is covered. S/P.

Drizzle a little of the butter over the top of the layer and then add additional layers (with S/P, butter) until all the potatoes are used Cover the pan with silver paper and cook in oven about 25 minutes Remove cover and cook an additional 45 minutes, or until the top is well browned No where is it written that you cant sprinkle a little fresh rosemary between one of the layers 149

Pumpkin Flowers in Batter Zucchini flowers can be substituted Remove the stamen and the bottom hard part if any from the flower Lightly dust each one in flour, and dip in a lightly beaten egg. S/P Heat some olive oil/butter in a frying pan and fry the flowers without touching each other, turning once They are excellent as a side dish, or main course Alternatively, a bunch of the flowers (dusted with flour)can be mixed with several beaten, seasoned eggs and made into a frittata This dish goes with no known wine

150

Stuffed Pumpkin Flowers We first had this at La Chiusa in Tuscany. A great side dish or first course. 4 pumpkin or zucchini flowers 5 oz of fresh ricotta 1 egg lightly beaten 2 oz sweet butter 4 ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded & diced a handful of chopped parsley 1 pinch of sugar S/P

Detach the stems and green parts of the flowers, and remove the stamens

West Hartford, VT 1967

In a bowl stir together the ricotta and egg, add in the parsley and season with s/p Carefully fill the flowers with the mixture Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the diced tomatoes, sugar and season with s/p and saut 10 minutes Add the stuffed flowers saut over low heat another 10 minutes, turning the flowers gently a few times to coat in the sauce

151

Slow Baked Tomatoes Split plum tomatoes lengthwise and scoop out the seeds and the gelatinous stuff. Put them in a bowl, pour over some EVO and mix along with s/p. Place them in a flat pan, add salt and a sprinkling of herbs de province, or just some thyme, oregano, savory etc. Drizzle on more EVO and bake at around 240 for 2 1/2 hrs A very good side dish or served on toast. Capers or anchovies can be added. Swiss Chard Bruschetta One of the great Casa Povera dishes. You can substitute spinach or dandelion for the chard. Parboil cutup Swiss chard in salted water and drain well. Saut garlic and chopped onions in some EVO then add in cannellini beans, some of which are mashed up. Add in the chard and mix well along with some hot pepper flakes. Serve over toasted (or not) Italian bread with grated cheese. Any leftovers can be used in a frittata. Swiss Chard Patties 2 lbs Swiss chard, cooked, chopped and squeezed of liquid 4-5 tbsp EVO 1 medium onion (1 1/2 cups), thinly sliced 1 1/2 tsp of sea salt 3 tbsp butter, in 3 pieces 1/2 tsp ground black pepper 1 egg, lightly beaten 2 cups of Montasio cow (or other soft) cheese, shredded

Heat the oil in a heavy skillet (non-stick is easier), add the onions and 1/2 tsp of the salt and cook about 5 minutes until the onions are well done Scatter in the chard along with the 3 pieces of butter and the pepper. Stir, add 1/2 tsp of salt and cook about 7 minutes, until the mixture is fairly dry (too wet and the patties dont hold together). Remove from the skillet, add 1/2 tsp of salt and set aside to cool. When cool, pour in the egg and mix well. With your hands make patties and then pat on rather firmly the shredded cheese. Place in a hot skillet with a little oil if necessary and cook one or two at a time until golden on both sides, wiping the pan between turns.

152

MISCELLANEA
Aioli ! This is a garlic mayonnaise. It is superb and a classic accompaniment to a vast combination of boiled vegetables, hard boiled eggs, boiled salt cod, potatoes, beets, chick peas, snails and squid (as the combinations grow, the whole thing is referred to as Le Grand Aioli!) Excellent also with boiled beef. A perfect Provence dish for the summer The garlic must be fresh remove any green stems inside Use the best olive oil 5 or 6 peeled garlic cloves 2 egg yolks room temperature 1 1/3 cups EVO warm water juice of a lemon S/P

Pound the garlic into a real paste with a mortar and pestle then add in the egg yolks, stirring thoroughly Start to add the oil in a slow drizzle, stirring, and as it begins to thicken add a little water, then the lemon juice. Continue with the oil/water/lemon etc until finished. Season with s/p. Note: When finished the aioli should be rather thick. If it begins to separate, put it in another bowl, clean the mortar, put in another egg yolk with a little water and a few drops of lemon juice. Little by little pour in the first aioli and mix until thick.

153

Berro, Apio y Cebolla (water cress, celery & onion) Mix a bunch of water cress (stems clipped) with chopped onion (red or otherwise) and tender parts of celery Add salt/pepper and oil/vinegar dressing Very Argentine

Bordelaise Sauce (excellent on rare filet, etc.) Makes about 2 cups 2 tbsp of butter 2 tbsp minced shallots 3/4 cup of dry red wine 1 1/2 cups of brown sauce or canned beef gravy 2 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp minced parsley S/P

Melt the butter in a sauce pan and cook the shallots until quite translucent. Add in the wine and simmer until reduced to half. Add the remaining ingredients and heat thoroughly Note: You can add in some sliced mushrooms that have been cooked somewhat in butter. I prefer to add in, at the beginning, some presoaked dried porcini mushrooms, chopped and cooked along with the red wine.

154

Chimichuri Sauce No respectable argentine asado is without a chimuchuri. There are many variations but it starts with oil/vinegar/garlic/parsley and builds from there according to taste. 1/2 cup EVO 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1/4 cup water 1/2 cup chopped parsley 1 red onion finely chopped 4 garlic cloves minced 1/2 red pepper, seeded and finely chopped(optional) 1 tomato, peeled, seeded (squeeze out liquid), finely chopped 1 tbsp oregano 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp laurel, chopped (optional) 1 tbsp coarse salt 1 tsp fresh ground black pepper hot pepper flakes to taste

Mix very well in a large bowl all the ingredients except the water, oil and vinegar. Let stand 20-30 minutes. Add the water and vinegar and let stand another 30 minutes Add in the EVO (oil) to cover and mix well Put in a glass container, close tightly and let rest several hours or more

155

Grilled Figs with Goat Cheese The fig tree in Callian came in very handy Two of these per person make an elegant first course, dessert or snack 8 ripe figs 1/4 cup fresh goat cheese 1 tsp mixed fresh herbs thyme, rosemary etc S/P 8 fig leaves or 8 6 inch squares of foil, if you dont have a fig tree in growing your apartment 8 rosemary-twig skewers or toothpicks 1 tsp soy sauce optional 1 tsp balsamic vinegar

Cut off the stems and split the figs apart slightly, forming 4 sides and a pocket. Into the pocket place a small amount of goat cheese and sprinkle on some herbs & s/p. From the bottom up, use the leaves or foil to form a cup around each fig and skewer each leaf or foil so that it holds securely Grill the figs open side up until they brown slightly. Remove and sprinkle with a few drops of the soy sauce or balsamic vinegar.

156

Frittata - Sometimes called an omelet

An old cook book of ours had a recipe for a Rumanian Omelet: First, you steal a dozen eggs. There are multiple variations on this theme including onions, peas & onions, sliced artichokes, potatoes, mushrooms, asparagus etc. The decision is - once the bottom is cooked - whether to put the frying pan under the broiler to finish or to flip it by putting a fitted dish on top, quickly turning the pan over and sliding the omelet back into the pan for a minute or so (this makes a big impression). Frittatas can be served warm or at room temperature.

Chateau Oeuf de Pop !

Potato & Onion Actually, this can be made with both ingredients or either one Use a large non-stick or heavy based frying pan 2 thinly sliced medium onions 2 good-sized boiled potatoes sliced into 1/4 inch rounds (or very thin sliced raw potatoes ) 3 or 4 tbsp of EVO 2 slices of lean salt pork, lardons or pancetta - chopped up salt and freshly ground pepper 7 eggs

Caramelize the onions in the oil, several minutes Add in the salt pork and let it cook down 157

Add the potato slices and saut until golden, turning the bits around with a spatula to let all sides cook S/P Turn up the heat to medium/high Having beaten the eggs now pour them into the pan and move the potatoes etc. around to let the eggs get to the bottom Alternatively, pour the onion/potato mixture into the beaten eggs first As the eggs solidify slightly move a plastic spatula under the edges and gently shake the pan to keep the frittata loose When the bottom has solidified turn it over and cook until done, shaking the pan gently Try these two variations. Nonna used to make these for me for lunch. (1)Cook chopped/sliced onions in butter/EVO until translucent. Pour this into a bowl and mix in beaten eggs, s/p and chopped fresh mint leaves. Proceed as usual. Do not overcook. (2)Cook the onions and at the end throw in fresh peas. When tender add all plus S/P to the beaten eggs. Proceed as usual. Zucchini Frittata - A surprisingly good dish Saut sliced zucchini rounds in 3 tbsp of EVO, add s/p and sprinkle on mixed herbs (thyme, oregano, dill). Meanwhile, beat 2 large eggs plus an egg white then mix in maybe 3 tbsp of grated parmesan cheese. S/P. When the zucchini are browned/cooked, turn the heat to medium high and pour in the egg mix. Use a spatula around the sides to prevent sticking. When the bottom is done maybe 2 minutes sprinkle on a little more cheese and put the pan under low heat in the broiler until puffy and slightly browned.

158

Hot Onion Omelet w/Vinegar Richard Olney Thinly slice 3 large onions and slowly (20 - 30 minutes) cook them with 2 tbsp of butter in a smallish heavy pan, stirring frequently Lightly beat 3 eggs, with S/P, and stir in the cooked onions. Add butter to the pan and cook the omelet, lifting the edges to avoid sticking. When done, slip it on to a warm plate. Add 1 tbsp of butter to the hot pan and when foaming pour it over the omelet Add 1 tbsp of wine vinegar to the pan, swirl it around, and drizzle over the omelet

Pintxos
Basque country tapas, often accompanied by a zurrito, which is a small shot of beer. Isabel and I hold advanced diplomas on the subject pintxos that is. Gildas The classic Pintxo On a wooden skewer, alternate guindillas (long thin green pickled peppers you can get them in Spanish grocery stores) with anchovies and green olives. A sprinkle of EVO. Fresh gildas quickly fried in EVO and salted are a fabulous side dish

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Pissaladiere (Onion Tart from Lulus Provancal Table) Pastry dough 1 cup of flour salt 10 tbsp of cold butter, diced about 4 tbsp of cold water Filling 4 tbsp EVO 2 pounds of fresh sweet white onions, finely sliced S&P 8 anchovies, rinsed and filleted, or 10 fillets (salt anchovies are preferable to those in oil, but the oil based ones will do) 1/2 cup of Nicoise olives

Preheat oven to 375 Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl, add the butter and crumble all together. Dont overwork the dough. Gather it together with a fork and a little cold water, wrap it in plastic and refrigerate at least 1 hour. Warm 2 tbsp of EVO in a large heavy sauce pan, add the onions and salt, and cook covered over low heat for an hour or more until they are very soft. Remove the lid and continue to cook until much of the liquid has evaporated. Dont let the onions become brown. Add pepper. With the palm of your hand flatten the ball of pastry on a generously floured board, sprinkle on more flour and roll it out to a thickness of about 1/8th inch. Place on a large baking sheet. Roll up the edges slightly and crimp the edges with a floured fork Spread the onion puree mix over the pastry, press in the anchovy fillets into a pattern you like and push in the olives. Drizzle olive oil over the surface and bake about 30 minutes, until the edges are golden and crisp. Good served hot or room temperature Note: Bread dough is often used instead of pastry. In which case the oven temperature is 425 for about 20 minutes, being careful not to let the onions become brown.

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Polenta Wedges You can make it (see Polenta, Non-Pastas) or buy it ready to go in food stores. The variations are forever. Heat up polenta rounds in butter. After turning once, sprinkle on grated parmesan cheese and a dab of pesto. Let it melt a little. Formidable! Instead of pesto, try marinara sauce or hearts of artichoke, or Tapenade This can be made with green or black olives. The taste is slightly different. It is very good with toast, cold vegetables, braised celery, mixed with pasta, and as a filling for hard boiled eggs. Or on polenta wedges! It keeps for weeks in the refrigerator. 1 1/2 cups of pitted black olives 2 large cloves of garlic, pureed 6 anchovy filets 2 tbsp capers 2 tbsp EVO 1/4 cup of lightly pressed down parsley a small amount of fresh (or, less, dried) thyme

Puree all of the above and adjust for seasoning. The mixture can be altered to taste. Optionally, a few drops of brandy can be added

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Tomato Salad There is nothing better than fresh cut up New Jersey tomatoes sprinkled with high quality EVO, sea salt and basil leaves Vinaigrette Sauce (For green salads) For the daring, blend in an anchovy (or two). Even a little minced garlic. Use a cup of very good extra virgin olive oil and stir in a teaspoon of dried mustard (or regular Dijon mustard). Too much mustard will overwhelm the olive oil. Add salt, freshly ground pepper and about 1/4 cup of red vinegar (balsamic or wine) Do this in a bottle with a tight top and shake vigorously until the mixture is creamy This will keep for several days It is particularly good with frise lettuce topped with an anchovy

Graduation Day Luis Irizar Escuela y Cocina San Sebastion

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DESSERTS
The best dessert is a sliced peach or pear in a glass of red wine Or, maybe an ice cream at Lawrence Beach Club

Blueberry Tortoni This can be made ahead of time and frozen until needed 1 cup heavy cream 1/4 cup of confectioners sugar 1 tsp of vanilla 1 tsp of rum flavoring 1 cup of fresh blueberries 1/3 cup of crisp crumbled macaroons

In bowl combine all but the berries and macaroons. Whip until stiff. Fold in the berries and most of the macaroon crumbs Put the mixture in muffin papers, sprinkle on the rest of the crumbs and stick on a few extra berries Freeze, then serve slightly thawed

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Ricotta with Black Olives This is generally taken as a dessert, or at least as the last course along with a caf espresso Simply place a large dollop of fresh ricotta on a plate accompanied by good quality wrinkled black olives Also not bad as an afternoon snack

THATS IT

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