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01_721193-ffirs.indd i 4/21/10 9:50 PM
Salzburg
day day BY
™
1st Edition
by Nick Dalton
A John Wiley and Sons, Ltd, Publication
01_721193-ffirs.indd i 4/21/10 9:50 PM

Contents
15 Favorite Moments 1
1 The Best Full-Day Tours 7
The Best in One Day 8
The Best in Two Days 14
The Best in Three Days 18
2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 21

Mozart 22
The Sound of Music 30
Art & Architecture 38
Gourmet Salzburg 44
The Magic of Christmas 48
Salzburg with Kids 54
3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 59

The Mönchsberg 60
The Kapuzinerberg 64
4 The Best Shopping 69

Shopping Best Bets 70
Salzburg Shopping A to Z 73
5 The Great Outdoors 79

River Salzach by Bike 80
The Untersberg 84
Salzburg Snow Shuttle 88
Salzburg Area Skiing 92
6 The Best Dining 97

Dining Best Bets 98
Salzburg Dining A to Z 101
02_721193-ftoc.indd ii 4/21/10 9:51 PM

7 The Best Nightlife 109
Nightlife Best Bets 110
Salzburg Nightlife A to Z 113
8 The Best Arts & Entertainment 117

Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 118
Arts & Entertainment A to Z 121
9 The Best Lodging 127

Lodging Best Bets 128
Salzburg Lodging A to Z 132
10 The Best Day Trips &

Excursions 141
Salt, Rock & Ice 142
Salzkammergut 146
Berchtesgaden 152
The Savvy Traveler 157

Before You Go 158
Getting There 160
Getting Around 161
Fast Facts 163
Salzburg: A Brief History 167
Salzburg’s Architecture 168
Useful Phrases & Menu Terms 170
Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 174
Index 175
02_721193-ftoc.indd iii 4/21/10 9:51 PM

Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate,
Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England
Telephone (+44) 1243 779777
Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): cs-books@wiley.co.uk.
Visit our Home Page on www.wiley.com
All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
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UK Publisher: Sally Smith
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5 4 3 2 1
03_721193-flast.indd iv 4/21/10 9:51 PM

A Note from the Editorial Director
Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.
Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then
expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are
different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then
they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient
way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by
time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with
a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.
Hoping to follow in the footsteps of Mozart, listening to exquisite

music? Hoping to climb every mountain from The Sound of Music
while sampling the sensational skiing? Or simply soak up the atmo-
sphere of Europe’s finest baroque city? Whatever your interest or
schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow.
Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restau-
rants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals
get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers.
The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one
complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and res-
taurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wild-
est nightlife—it’s all here.
Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors person-
ally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot
who say what they think and would never include places they
wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to
suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please
send your comments our way at feedback@frommers.com, and
we’ll pass them on.
Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion

you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.
Warm regards,
Kelly Regan, Editorial Director

Frommer’s Travel Guides
03_721193-flast.indd v 4/21/10 9:51 PM

vi
About the Author
Nick Dalton is a freelance travel writer based in London. He writes regu-
larly in the Daily Telegraph and has written for The Times, The Independent
and The Daily Express as well as countless magazines. He has covered
mountain destinations around the world, from the Rockies to South Korea,
and is a leading ski journalist who loves using his trips to the slopes as a
way to explore their surroundings . . . Salzburg in particular. He has also
written travel guides for Colorado, Canada, Tennessee and other destina-
tions. He is the co-author of Frommer’s Wales with Your Family.
Acknowledgments
Thanks to Maria Altendorfer and Andrea Heitzer at Salzburg Tourism, Sabine
Arnold at Ski Amadé, Doris Thurnhofer at Salzburgerland Tourism, and Karo-
line Scheiber and everyone at the Austrian Tourist Office in London. A big
thank you to Deborah Stone for helping with the photography. This book is
dedicated to Deborah, Georgia and Henry, who make the family research
such fun.
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—
and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or
call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors,
editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of
readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we
encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.
Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked
for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-
rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are
rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a= icon to point out
the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or
restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a
shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet P .
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
03_721193-flast.indd vi 4/21/10 9:51 PM

vii
Travel Resources at Frommers.com
Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website,
www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destina-
tions. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current
trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bar-
gains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com
members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read
blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.
A Note on Prices
In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a
system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the
price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree (main course) at
a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:
Cost Hotels Restaurants

$ under $100 under $10
$$ $100–$200 $10–$20
$$$ $200–$300 $20–$30
$$$$ $300–$400 $30–$40
$$$$$ over $400 over $40
How to Contact Us
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,
restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us
about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in
upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d
love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Salzburg Day by Day, 1st Edition

Wiley UK
03_721193-flast.indd vii 4/21/10 9:51 PM

04_721193-prechap01.indd viii 4/21/10 9:51 PM
15 Favorite
Moments
04_721193-prechap01.indd 1 4/21/10 9:51 PM

2
15 Favorite Moments
15 Favorite Moments
St. Maria- Adolf-
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04_721193-prechap01.indd 2 4/21/10 9:51 PM

3
Grillp
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04_721193-prechap01.indd 3 4/21/10 9:51 PM

4
S
15 Favorite Moments
alzburg is a city known for its music and its history.
What’s surprising to the first-time visitor is how small and walk-
able the place is, and how many simple pleasures there are to be
had. These are just a few of the things that I find special about this
gorgeous city on the edge of the mountains.
1 Walking the Mönchsberg. One 3 Singing The Sound of Music

of a pair of mini-mountains book- songs in Mirabell Gardens.
ending the city, this semi-wild park Salzburg is full of The Sound of
high above the streets has walks Music locations but these ornate
from the ancient Hohensalzburg gardens sum it all up, a mix of time-
Fortress to the sleek Museum of less beauty and movie memories.
Modern Art. There’s a real feeling of Here, among the fountains, arched
being behind the tourist scenes as hedge, and exquisite flower dis-
you find hidden paths and discover plays, is where Do-Re-Mi was sung.
yet another breathtaking view See p 12.
through the trees. See p 60.
4 Wandering the narrow streets.
2 Taking the children to Hellb- The Getreidegasse and the roads,
runn. The palace, in its huge park, is paths, and alleys that criss-cross the
an ideal family excursion. Young- Old Town never fail to entertain.
sters love getting soaked (and There’s something around every
watching adults getting soaked) on corner, on every wall, and down
the tour of the trick fountains, then every opening, whether shops with
running wild in the grounds and at ornate medieval signs, little pieces
the impressive adventure play- of history, or cafes. And you can
ground. If you have the energy to never stray far, with the Mönchs-
take them to the zoo, they’ll love berg on one side and the river on
you even more. See p 19. the other. See p 60.
Hellbrunn Palace.
5 Listening to a Schlosskonzerte
at the Mirabell Palace’s Marble
Hall. I feel like I’ve penetrated the
inner sanctum of Mozart’s city at
one of the almost-daily recitals by
cool quartets and other small
groups in the small, refined setting.
No fancy wigs or gold buttons, just
black suits and T-shirts, and a
friendly makeshift bar. See p 27.
6 Popping into Fürst’s for a
Mozart Ball. It’s a childlike treat to
have just one of the original, hand-
made, chocolate-covered marzipan
treats. These gobstopper-sized
chocs, created in 1890, can’t be
eaten in one bite, and let me know
I’m back in Salzburg, sipping a cof-
fee in one of the handful of Fürst’s
cafes. See p 26.
04_721193-prechap01.indd 4 4/21/10 9:51 PM

5
7 Being amazed at the Dom. The
15 Favorite Moments
Dom is the cathedral, a baroque
masterpiece of frescoes, gilt, and
carving. The font where Mozart was
baptized is here but that’s over-
shadowed by the sheer Italianate
grandeur of the place. It’s relaxing
when it’s quiet, but I love it most
when it’s packed for Sunday Mass,
with organ and choir in full swing.
See p 9.
8 Having a glass of bubbly in
Threesixty. No matter how many
times I come here, I’m still in awe.
Threesixty is a glass-walled, glass-
floored pod of a bar hanging from
the roof of the modernistic glass-
and-steel Hangar-7, where Red Bull
drinks baron Dietrich Mateschitz
keeps his collection of planes, heli- Sunset over the Dom.
copters, and cars. I like to take the
heady, spiraling walkway and sip as far as the town of Hallein. Either
champagne just as the sun is slip- way, it’s easy cycling at the foot
ping behind the mountains, turning of the encroaching mountains. See
the world to gold. See p 113. p 80.
9 Biking along the river. The 0 Sipping a beer in the Augustiner
Salzach cuts through the middle of Bräustübl. This is the beer hall to end
Salzburg. I like to rent a bike for the beer halls, room after cathedral-like
day on the Old Town’s riverbank, room. Grab a tankard, pay, and have
and then I follow the flat river path it filled from a single tap. I still haven’t
south. If I fancy an easy jaunt, it’s worked my way through the corridor
down to Hellbrunn and back along of stalls selling all manner of snacks
the other side; a longer trip and it’s from peppery radishes to spit-roasted
The alleys off Getreidegasse are full of temptations.
04_721193-prechap01.indd 5 4/21/10 9:51 PM

6
15 Favorite Moments
The Salzach has bike paths along both sides of the river.
chicken, cured fish to enormous gaily-lit and decorated streets. Even

sausages—but I’m trying. See p 101. doing the tourist sites takes on a
new dimension, with the sounds
! Having an evening cocktail on
and scents of the season all around.
the Steinterrasse. The rooftop bar
See p 48.
at the Hotel Stein, on the New Town
riverbank, has one of the world’s $ Heading up the Untersberg.
most glorious views, straight across I adore this lonely mountain only a
from the brilliantly lit Hohensalzburg short bus ride from town. The historic
Fortress and the yellow lights of the cable car up is fun, and then you
narrow streets below. See p 114. have serious hikes (I’ve been to Ger-
many and back) as well as gentle
@ Standing in the house where
walks with immense views. If the
Mozart was born. The uneven
clouds roll in, I just head to one of
stairs, the low ceilings, and the
the cafes. See p 84.
sheer feeling of history are over-
whelming in this ancient house % And finally . . . just standing
where a genius came into the world. outside the Hohensalzburg For-
The fact that it contains instruments tress and gazing. The city spreads
he used to play in his earliest days out below, a mass of tumbling roofs
makes it even more awe-inspiring. and soaring spires, and the moun-
See p 24. tains rise up a few miles away. It
truly is a beautiful place, some-
# Watching the snow fall at
where that has the benefits of a city,
Christmas. There’s nowhere more
but with the joys of a small town—
magical than Salzburg at this time,
and somewhere that when you’ve
whether you’re browsing in the
been once you’ll always want to
Christkindlmarkt—the king of Christ-
come again. See p 9.
mas markets—or shopping in the
04_721193-prechap01.indd 6 4/21/10 9:51 PM

1 The Best
Full-Day Tours
05_721193-ch01.indd 7 4/21/10 9:52 PM

8
The Best Full-Day Tours
The Best in One Day
Julius-
tr. Max-Ott-
hun-s
Fab
0 -t 1/8 mi Raab-Platz
Ernest Platz Auerspergstra Information
erst
ße
raße
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Schwa
aß e Adolf- Post Office

gstr Straße
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Steg o dro
Elisa
Stra
Mirabell- is-L Kirche
Evangelische Par
ße
bet
garten St. Sebastians-

Kirche
hka
Barockmuseum Friedhof
Fra
Dreif
nz
Bus-Terminal-
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Nord
altigk
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Universität St. Sebastians-

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Museum der Haus der steg St. Johannes-
9 11 3 Kirche
Moderne Natur Steingasse
Mönchsberg Ferdinand- Staats- Giselak
Griesgasse brücke ai
Aufzug Hanusch-Platz Gr Robert-
stä ie sgasse Jungk-Platz
G
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be r gas Mozart-
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G
Alter steg
ner
Kirche Herbert-von-
g.
Universitätsplatz Gedenkstätte
Brod
Markt
Haff
Karajan-Pl.
Goldg.
Spielzeug Waagpl. Information

Universität
und
Museum Residenz- Mozartplatz

Ho
Kollegien- Galerie St. 7

Sigm
fst
kirche Michael
all
Bürgerwehr r 3 Mozartplatz
ga
t o Max-
s Franziskaner- Salzburg
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Residenzplatz
Museum
Sig Platz Residenz
Felsenreitschule 3 6 Museum Dom Neue Residenz
Domplatz Panorama
Hildmann- der Moderne 4
platz Museum
Salzburg Rupertinum
.
Krotachg
Dommuseum
Kaig.
Stiftskirche Kapitelgasse
Johann- Kapitelplatz
St. Peter
Michael- Erzbischöfliches Ka
1 Hohensalzburg Fortress igas
Haydn- Palais se
2 Mönchsberg Museum Katakomben Herrengasse
Friedhof Festungsgasse
3 Festival Halls St. Peter
Festungs
StieglKeller
4 Salzburg Cathedral
5 Getreidegasse
bahn
Oskar-Kokos
chka-Weg
6 Cafe Niemetz
1
7 Mozart Square M
Ha
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ga
sb
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erg
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be
River cruise
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No
10 Mirabell Palace & Gardens

11 Salzach River-Island-Bar Brunnhausgasse
Previous page: The domes of the cathedral and Kollegienkirche line up.
05_721193-ch01.indd 8 4/21/10 9:52 PM

9
The Best in One Day

ith just a day, you simply want to go and explore Salz-
burg, and there’s no easier city to come to grips with; a com-
pact place and simple to get around. Soak up the history, take in the
views, try the food, and cruise down the river. Be prepared for a
decent amount of walking, because that’s the only way to see Salz-
burg properly. START: Hohensalzburg funicular.
1 ★★★ Hohensalzburg For- 4 ★★★ Salzburg Cathedral

tress (Festung Hohensalz- (Salzburg Dom). Rated as the
Fra
burg). The fortress that sits on a

nz-
most impressive early baroque edi-

Jos
ße
stra rocky plateau and dominates the fice on the northern side of the Alps,
ef-S
r-
tra
hale city skyline protected church rulers this really is unmissable. The cathe-
ße
rt
Vie
in their lofty perch for centuries. It dral (the Dom) presents a mighty
aße
was built in 1077 by Archbishop facade topped with a dome, incredi-

Gebhard and considerably enlarged ble in itself since the current dome
4 centuries later, and is now the was built after the original was
ns-
largest, fully preserved fortress in demolished by wartime bombing.
central Europe. This is the place to The present building dates from
start any tour of Salzburg. You can 1628, and is the third on the site;
take a slow walk up or ride the the first, from 774, was destroyed by
funicular, which click-clacks almost fire and its replacement, itself fire-
er- vertically up the hillside. See p 10. damaged, was torn down in 1598
by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich, later
rkloster 2 ★★★ Mönchsberg. From the
imprisoned for his actions. Inside, the
fortress walk along the top of the
baroque artwork is some of Europe’s
plateau—this high-level park has
Robert- best and there’s the font in which
ngk-Platz treelined paths and a view over the
city in one direction and toward the The Hohensalzburg Fortress looms over
Mozart-
mountains in the other. You can buy the city.
l steg a drink from a snack kiosk after a
e
short distance, and benches at every
Information
Mozartplatz turn will tempt you to chill out in the
atz sun. When you reach the modernistic
alzburg Museum der Moderne (Museum
useum
esidenz of Modern Art, p 40, 1), take the
Panorama elevator, which drops through the
Museum
rock to the streets below. @ 30 min.
.
Krotachg
Kaig.
gasse See p 60 for a full tour of the

höfliches Ka Mönchsberg.
igas
lais se
engasse 3 Festival Halls (Festspiel-
häuser). Walk with the Mönchsberg
on your right and you come to the
Festival Halls complex, where the
world-famous Salzburg Festival
(p 122) is held. This also contains the
ung
Felsenreitschule (Rock Riding
sse
lzburg
ga
School, p 33, 5), the open-air

rg
be
nn
concert venue made famous in The

No
Sound of Music (p 30) that is only vis-

ible during a tour of the halls.
@ 10 min. See p 43 9.
05_721193-ch01.indd 9 4/21/10 9:52 PM

10
Hohensalzburg Fortress
Mayor’s
Funicula
Tower
Nonnberg
r Railway
1A Bastion
Trumpeter’s 1B
Tower
1G St. George
1F
1I 1J Chapel
1H
Heroes 1K 1L Outer Courtyard
Tower
1M 1N Cistern
Chaplain’s
1E Quarters
1D
Hasen- Granary
tower Vulture 1C
Tower
Powder
Tower
From the a ticket office, the onto the g tower roof for pan-
steep b snake path curves oramic views. After the tour, you’re
upward, through the cloistered tun- free to walk into the h Roman-
nel. You emerge outside the c bar/ esque chapel with its excavated
cafe with a d tower of cannon- flooring and uncovered fresco
balls opposite. Continue to the remains. Enter the i castle keep
e stables where you can join the and head up the stone stairs into the
free audio tour (the only way to get 1 old living quarters where
into this area), taking in the f tor- you’ll find exhibitions on the history
ture chamber, filled with portraits of the fortress and Salzburg, items of
of prince archbishops and models of warfare right up to the Nazi occupa-
the fortress down the ages, and out tion in World War II, and ecclesiastical
treasures. On the top floor, the
extravagant ( archbishops’
private quarters include the
) Golden Hall (now used for con-
certs), the ^ Golden Room with
its fantastically decorated tiled oven,
and the * bedroom. @ 2 hr.
Mönchsberg 34. y 0662/84243011.
www.salzburg-burgen.at. Admission
10.50€ adults, 6€ children 14 and
under, free 5 and under. Daily May–
Sept 9am–7pm; Oct–Apr 9:30am–5pm
A carved bench in the Golden Hall. (Easter/Advent weekends 6pm).
05_721193-ch01.indd 10 4/21/10 9:52 PM

11
St. Peter’s Cemetery (p 26, 6),
The Best in One Day

Mozart was christened, an organ sur-
rounded by angels (Mozart was court across Kapitelplatz, to this classical
organist), and carved portals. In late square featuring the statue of
2009, a 12th-century choir crypt Mozart by Ludwig Schwanthaler,
(filled in after the fire and discovered unveiled on September 5, 1842, in
in the 1950s) was transformed into a the presence of Mozart’s sons.
public space. In it, French artist Chris- You’ll also find the Salzburg
tian Boltanski has created a danse Museum (p 41, 6) occupying
macabre shadow play involving flick- one side of the square. @ 20 min.
ering candles and metal puppets. The
adjoining museum (see p 40, 3) con-
8 ★ River walk. Head to the riv-
erbank path (taking care to avoid
tains many works of art. @ 1 hr.
the many carefree cyclists) and
Domplatz. y 0662/80477950. www.
stroll along with views across to
kirchen.net/dommuseum. Free admis-
the Kapuzinerberg, the Hotel Stein
sion. Daily 6:30am–7pm (5pm winter).
(p 68) with its roof terrace, and
Charge for museum, see p 40, 3.
other grand buildings until you
Tours in English from end July to Aug,
reach the Makartsteg footbridge,
2:30pm; rest of year by arrangement.
where you’ll see the river cruise
Bus: 1.
pontoon. @ 10 min.
5 ★★★ Getreidegasse. Walk
9 ★ River cruise. The Amadeus
across Residenzplatz, then along
Salzburg plies the Salzach from mid-
Alter Markt, and you find yourself at
April to mid-October, giving views
the bustling, picturesque heart of
up at the city skyline through its
Salzburg, a narrow street running
panoramic windows. The cruise is
canyon-like through the high, historic
short enough to get a feel for the
buildings on either side. Along with
river and to see things from a differ-
Mozart’s Birthplace (p 24, 1), it is
ent perspective, but there’s not
packed with shops as well as roman-
much to keep the attention once
tic passageways and courtyards that
out of the city—although switching
have been turned into glitzy shop-
ping arcades. As you stroll, gaze up
Salzburg Cathedral.
at the metal pictorial shop signs (dat-
ing from when few of the populace
could read) and smile at the one that
signifies a disguised McDonald’s.
@ 40 min.
6 Cafe Niemetz. Okay, you’re not

going to the Salzburg Festival but you
can experience some of the atmo-
sphere at this cafe next to the Festi-
val Halls. The place is full of musical
memorabilia and there’s every
chance you could be sitting next to a
world-famous musician. Herbert-von-
Karajan-Platz 11. y 0622/843367. $$.
7 ★ Mozart Square (Mozart-

platz). Walk through the back-
streets, this time heading through
05_721193-ch01.indd 11 4/21/10 9:52 PM

12
A glorious winter’s day seen from the Makartsteg footbridge.
on the jet overdrive gives a fun turn and nine a day depending on sea-
of speed. This is a good opportunity son). Advance booking (at the river-
to relax with a coffee or beer after side office) is recommended,
all that walking. The captain’s finale particularly in summer.
of using the jets to send the boat on
0 ★★ Mirabell Palace & Gar-
a mad waltz accompanied by blaring
dens (Schloss Mirabell). Cross
Mozart music is always a crowd
the Makartsteg footbridge and you’ll
pleaser. The trip heads upriver as
find yourself at the Makartplatz
far as Hellbrunn, and some cruises
entrance to the gardens. The vast
include a visit to Hellbrunn Palace
formal gardens are a delight of foun-
(p 19, 1) with a bus back. @ 35–40
tains, sculptures (including original
min (standard cruise). Makartsteg
1689 statues of Roman gods),
footbridge. y 0622/825858. www.
clipped greenery, and bold flowers,
salzburgschifffahrt.at. Standard
and are rated Europe’s most impor-
cruise: 13€ adults, 7€ children 15
tant baroque gardens. On a good
and under, free 3 and under. Incl. on
weather day, you’ll want to wander
Salzburg Card (p 165). Boats leave
aimlessly, letting the spray from the
on the hour, Apr–Oct (between four
The Salzburg Card

Nowhere does it better—just about everything you would want
to do is included on a single micro-chipped card. With the Salzburg
Card you can visit all the city’s attractions, plus use public transport
(including the funicular to the fortress, boat trip along the river, and
the Untersberg mountain cable car) for no extra cost other than the
price of the card. The Salzburg Card also gives discounts for cultural
events as well as many tours and excursions. For full details, see
p 165.
05_721193-ch01.indd 12 4/21/10 9:52 PM

13
The Best in One Day

fountains wash over you. You can
then walk across a footbridge onto
old fortifications where there are
more gardens, and into the Kur Gar-
dens, a more casual park with trees
and a small hill topped with rose
bushes. In 1606, Prince Archbishop
Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau had the
palace built for his mistress, mer-
chant’s daughter Salome; in return
she bore him 15 children, so you can
see the attraction. Since then it’s had
baroque and neoclassical overhauls,
been home to the Austrian emperor,
and now houses the Salzburg may-
or’s office. Most of the building isn’t The ornate marble stairwell of the Mira-
open to the public but you can gasp bell Palace.
at the mighty marble staircase
adorned with marble cherubs, and
the ornate Marble Hall (Marmor- ! Salzach River-Island-Bar.
At the river cruise company base
saal), or check it out at one of the
you’ll find this floating panoramic
nightly concerts by the Salzburger
bar/restaurant. Open from 7pm it’s
Mozartsolisten (p 27). @ 40 min.
a popular haunt for locals as the sun
Mirabellplatz. y 0662/80722334.
goes down, and a great place to
Marble Hall: free admission. Mon,
relax before considering dinner
Wed, Thurs 8am–4pm; Tues, Fri:
options. Makartsteg footbridge.
1–4pm. Gardens daily, unrestricted
access. Bus: 1.
y 0622/825858. www.salzburg
schifffahrt.at. $$.
The Mirabell Palace & Gardens.
05_721193-ch01.indd 13 4/21/10 9:52 PM

14
The Best in Two Days
Julius-
tr. Max-Ott-
hun-s
Fab
0 -t 1/8 mi Raab-Platz
Ernest Platz Auerspergstra Information
erst
ße
ra
0 0.125 km Police Station
ße
Schwa
aß e Adolf- Post Office

gstr Straße
Rain
rs per sef- Kolping-Platz
z-Jo
Elisabe
Salzburg
rzstra
Aue Fran
erst
Hay
7 sse
raß
r-Ga
ße
Bank
thkai
attle
dn s
e
Paracelsus e rt-S
Fab
Hub
traß
erst
Kurpark eg
Fra
e
er-W sse
a r tn
nz-
ga
r.
umg St. Andrä- nen
Wo
Jos
ard-Pa Kirche ran ße
Sch
lf-
nh
r stra
ef-S
B e Schloss
Die
r-
tra
Mirabell Mirabell-
tric
ße hale
Stra Loreto
ße
Müllner iert
on-
h-
platz V
Steg odr
Elisa
Stra
is-L Kirche
Evangelische
Mirabell- Par
ße
bet

Kirche
hka
Barockmuseum Friedhof
Fra
Dreif
i
nz
Bus-Terminal-
altigk
-Jos
Nord
ef-K
Mozarteum Universität St. Sebastians-

eitsg
Dreifaltigkeits-
ai
Mozarteum Kirche
kirche
.
Ber
Marionetten- 3
6 8
3
Prie
gstr
Sa
se
Theater as
lza
ster
aß e
Ursulinen- Makartplatz
erg
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Universität
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Salzburg Rupertinum
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Kapitelplatz Kapitelgasse
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7 The Sound of Music Tour

8 Cafe San Marco Brunnhausgasse
05_721193-ch01.indd 14 4/21/10 9:52 PM

15

ay two gives you an increasing feel for what makes the
city tick, notably Mozart and The Sound of Music tour (booking
required), while letting you get inside the sublime region surround-
ing it. First, more of the same: walking and wandering, seeing the
city from the tiny, quaint, meandering streets. And then the opportu-
nity to dart out into the countryside. START: Getreidegasse.
1 ★★ Mozart’s Birthplace 3 ★★ St. Peter’s Abbey

(Mozarts Geburtshaus). The (Stiftskirche St. Peter). In any
apartment where the Mozart family normal city this would be the eccle-
lived from 1747 to 1773, and where siastical highlight but, a 2-minute
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born walk from the Dom, it slips into sec-
in 1756. Today it has grown from ond place. Just. The church is high-
being a quaint, cluttered collection of Romanesque, but was given a
artifacts such as Mozart’s childhood baroque makeover in the 17th cen-
violin and piano to a modern place tury, like many of Salzburg’s build-
with a rather avant-garde approach. ings. One of the chapels in the south
Some feel it’s gone a little too far in aisle contains a memorial for Johann
this direction with the things that you Michael Haydn and a marble plaque
really want to see playing second fid- for Mozart’s sister, Nannerl. The
dle, as it were, to design. Mozart fans cemetery (p 26 6) is fascinating
would want to spend longer here and beautiful, pushed up against the
browsing amongst the exhibits. Mönchsberg rock, with intricate
@ 45 min. See p 24, 1. memorials to a number of well-
known locals, including Nannerl and
2 Residenz. Now this is what pomp
Haydn’s composer brother Michael.
and circumstance is all about . . . a
Fascinating catacombs hewn out of
sprawling medieval bishops’ resi-
the Mönchsberg rock walls (which
dence with 180 rooms, three court-
only take a few minutes to look at)
yards, and a wealth of gold and
are thought to be of early Christian
velvet. It was given a baroque
origin and are a strange find in a city
appearance at the end of the 16th
center. See p 26, 5 & 6. @ 30
century and is now mostly used for
state functions. However, the part
Mozart’s Birthplace, the heart of
that is open, the State Rooms, is big Salzburg.
and grand enough so you can live
without seeing the rest. You do have
to pay attention to the audioguide,
though, because there’s no other
way to work out what you’re looking
at. The Residenz Gallery has a col-
lection of Old Masters including
Rubens, Rembrandt, and Breughel.
@ 45 min. Residenzplatz 1. y 0662/
80422690. www.salzburg-burgen.at.
Admission 8.50€ adults, 2.70€ chil-
dren 14 and under, free 5 and under.
Daily 10am–5pm. Audioguide in
seven languages. Guided tours by
arrangement.
05_721193-ch01.indd 15 4/21/10 9:52 PM

16
Festival Halls. Even if you’re not
stocking up, this is a place for win-
dow shopping, full of sights and
enticing smells. Grab some bread,
cheese, ham, fruit, and a bench for
a casual, early lunch. Universität-
splatz. Mon–Fri 7am–7pm, Sat
7am–3pm.
5 ★★ Mozart’s Residence
(Mozart Wohnhaus). Head across
The ceiling of one of the Residenz State the Makartsteg footbridge to the
Rooms. New Town and you’ll find yourself on
Makartplatz, with the plush Hotel
min. Erzabtei St. Peter. y 0662/ Bristol on one side and the building
844576. www.stift-stpeter.at. Church: housing the apartment where Mozart
free admission. Daily 8am–noon, lived on the other. Mozart lived here
4:30–6:30pm. Catacombs admission with his family from 1773–1780, and
1€ adults, .60€ children 17 and by this time was now a bit of a celeb-
under, free 5 and under. May–Sept rity. He wrote a number of works in
10:30am–5pm; Oct–Apr Wed/Thurs the big, airy apartment and the place
10:30am–3:30pm, Fri–Sun 10:30am–4 is a fascinating mix of manuscripts
pm. Hours subject to change. Closed and musical instruments. The
3 weeks in Nov. Bus: 5. museum traces Mozart’s time here
(with multi-lingual audio) and there’s
a film, Mozart and Salzburg, which
4 Green Market. Salzburg’s lead- provides a good overview (using the
ing market for local produce with audioguide headsets). Serious Mozart
dozens of stalls. It starts on Univer- aficionados will want to spend more
sitätsplatz, but spills down side time here (see p 27, !). @ 45 min.
streets and reaches the front of the Makartplatz 8. y 0662/8422740.
The Residenz.
05_721193-ch01.indd 16 4/21/10 9:52 PM

17
(p 19, 1), and Nonnberg Convent

(p 32, 1). The tour is fun whether
you’re a Sound of Music buff or not;
pleasantly tongue-in-cheek yet infor-
mative with a chance to see both the
city and the countryside. It’s brought
alive by the constant chatter and jokes
of a guide who knows his stuff but
still sees the funny side. There’s an
hour or so stop in the lakeside town
of Mondsee (p 151, 0) for the church,
or just taking in the scenery. @ 4 hr.
Panorama Tours, departs Mirabell-
platz (but free pick-up from city hotels).
www.panoramatours.com. y 0662/
8832110. 37€ adults, 18€ children 12
and under, free 3 and under. Departs
9:30am & 2pm. See p 30 for a full The
Sound of Music tour.
St. Peter’s Abbey. 8 Cafe San Marco. When you’ve

had enough of the tourist trail, disap-
www.mozarteum.at. Admission 7€ pear into this little bar and pizzeria.
adults, 3€ children 15–18, 2.50€ There’s the public face on the corner
6–14. Daily 9am–5:30pm (8pm July/ of Makartplatz (just along from the
Aug). Combined ticket with Mozart’s Hotel Bristol, with tables on the
Birthplace (p 24, 1) 12€/4.50€/ square), and the lively, divey back bar
3.50€. opening onto the covered walk-
through by the Universität Mozarteum
bike garage. Here, a pint of Stiegl
6 Mirabell Cafe. On a summer’s costs just 2.90€ and a margarita
day, sitting in the Mirabell Gardens pizza 5.50€. Makartplatz 5. y 0662/
is a delight, and this little cafe on 872088. www.cafesanmarco.at. $.
the grass and under the trees just
inside the Makartplatz gate across
from Mozart’s Residence has a Mozart’s Residence.
casual, almost French country feel.
The place to relax with coffee and
cake. No phone. $.
7 ★★ The Sound of Music

Tour. A relaxing 4-hour tour (you
need to pre-book), with an English-
speaking guide, takes you out of
the city to see the mountain land-
scape where the opening scenes of
the movie were filmed. It includes the
church where Maria and the Baron
were married, as well as Salzburg
beauty spots Leopoldskron Palace
(p 35, ^), Hellbrunn Palace
05_721193-ch01.indd 17 4/21/10 9:52 PM

18
05_721193-ch01.indd 18
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The Best in Three Days
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5
3 Café Bazar
4/21/10 9:52 PM
19
The Best in Three Days

oday, you have the chance to see some out-of-town
delights with the ease of public transport, making the day a lit-
tle more relaxing. You’ll combine some of Salzburg’s most beautiful
spots, the city’s most stunning modern attraction, and unforgettable
views from the air (advance booking required). START: Mirabellplatz
for bus no. 25 to Hellbrunn.
1 ★★ Hellbrunn Palace free; students 6€. Late Mar, Apr, Oct

(Schloss Hellbrunn). The trick daily 9am–4:30pm; May, June, Sept
fountains here are stupendous, even to 5:30pm; July/Aug to 9pm. Grounds:
e
raß
more so when you learn they were free admission. Apr–Sept daily 6am–
nst
the joke of Prince Archbishop Markus 9pm; Mar/Oct 6:30am–6pm; Dec–Feb

kro
l ds
Sittikus (1574–1619), who had this 6:30am–5pm. Bus: 25.

po
Leo
summer palace built 400 years ago.

Head back on the bus to Mirabell-
There are dozens of fountains: some
Rosittengasse
platz, and from there take bus
which spurt out of pathside rocks,
no. 2 for the 10-minute ride to
some which form arcs as you walk,
Karolingerstrasse.
and Markus’s greatest joke—those
which shoot up from stone seats at
his outdoor dining table. You can 2 Carpe Diem Café. Stop for cof-
only see the fountains (p 56, 2) on a fee and cake or lunch in this cafe in
guided tour, which also allows you Hangar-7, right by the collection of
ling entry into the palace. The large sur- planes and cars, in architecturally
Dür
rounding park has free entry and is a stunning surroundings. The reputa-
fine place for walking. If you find tion for fine food at the main restau-
yourself with more time, it’s also a rant, Ikarus, spills over into this
pleasing hour’s walk, much of it casual spot with everything from
along the river, back to town. @ 2 hr Viennese dishes (fried chicken with
traße (1 hr fountains/palace, 1 hr park). potato-corn salad, pumpkin seed oil,
Fürstenweg 37. y 0662/8203720. and cranberries) to a modern take
www.hellbrunn.at. Palace and foun- on kebabs. Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse
tains: adults 9.50€, children 18 and 7a. y 0662/219777. www.hangar-7.
under 4.50€, children 3 and under com. $$.
Hellbrunn Palace.
05_721193-ch01.indd 19 4/21/10 9:52 PM

20
Hangar-7.
3 ★★★ Hangar-7. An extraordi- you can take the bus straight

nary place on the opposite side of back to the city.
the runway from Salzburg Airport’s 4 ★ Helicopter tour. The com-
terminal. This curving, futuristic, bination of timeless architecture and
glass-and-steel hangar is the toy of the white-tipped mountain backdrop
Dietrich Mateschitz, the Red Bull makes Salzburg a wondrous place to
fizzy drink creator, who owns sports see from the air. Helios flights,
teams, not least a successful For- based at Salzburg airport, then take
mula 1 set-up. Here is his collection you onward to look at the mighty
of historic planes, from fighter jets Hohe Tauern peaks (65 min), the
to Yugoslav President Tito’s Douglas pretty Lake District (30 min) or the
DC-6B state airliner and a North greenery of Upper Bavaria (40 min).
American B-25J Mitchell bomber, It’s not cheap, but then any helicop-
along with helicopters and racing ter flight is a luxury. @ 30–65 min.
cars (including the winner of the
y 0622/32994. www.helios.at. Book-
2008 Formula 1 Italian Grand Prix). ing required. From 180€ per person.
It’s also home to the fleet of the Fly- Bus: 2.
ing Bulls. It’s difficult to know which
is the more beautiful: the exhibits or
the building that also features the 5 Café Bazar. After arriving back
glass-floored Threesixty bar (p 113) in town, this is a place to relax,
dangling from the roof. The sun either for late afternoon coffee, an
pours through the arching roof and early evening drink, or even dinner.
the mountains fill the view in one The Bazar is on the river, just along
direction—the place is particularly from the Mirabellplatz bus stop, and
stunning in the late afternoon light. has a lovely outdoor area. You can
@ 1 hr. Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse 7a. order hot and cold food all evening
y 0662/21970. www.hangar-7.com. and, with sister hotel the Brandstät-
Free admission. Daily 9am–10pm. ter (p 101) owned by the same fam-
Bus: 2. ily having a Michelin star, the quality
is guaranteed. Schwarzstrasse 3.
The airport is only one further
stop on bus no. 2, and afterwards y 0662/84278. Closed Sun. $$.
05_721193-ch01.indd 20 4/21/10 9:52 PM

2 The Best Special-
Interest Tours
06_721193-ch02.indd 21 4/21/10 9:52 PM

22
The Best Special-Interest Tours
Mozart
St. Maria- Adolf-
Kirche raße
Schwa
rgst sef-Straße Kolping-
Rain
Salz
Elisabe
rzstra
er-S
e ng Kurhaus Congress Natio
Bä r ä
Fran
Hay
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traß
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P
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Bernh
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Ha
erg
Schloss n
ran tra
upts
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Au Müllner -Lo
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Kirche platz is Lore

Steg Par
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Mirabell- Par aße
Fran
tr
Evangelische garten ro n-S
Lod
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Kirche St. Seb

-Jos
Barockmuseum Frie
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Dreif
Bus-
14 St. Sebastian
ai
altigk
13 Terminal-
Universität Kirc
Mozarteum 12 Nord
Elis
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Mozarteum
a be
Be
th
rgs
i Dreifaltigkeits-
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Marionetten-
Ber
as
traß
rg
Sa Theater Kirche
gstr.
ze
lza
L in
Makartplatz
ch LandestheaterS
Ka
Ursulinen- ch
11
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platz wa
om
M na rzs
Mozart-
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ö de tra
n Markuskirche ße Wohnhaus
c E l is
h Fra ab
nz -Jo Anlegestelle eth
Gstä
s
sef Makart- kai

b
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St. Johannes-
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Haus der
g.
Kirche
Museum der Moderne Aufzug Ferdinand- Staats- Giselak
Griesgasse ai
Salzburg Mönchsberg Hanusch- brücke
Mün
Griesgas
stä Platz se
G
tte
zg.
ng Rathaus Rudo
Blasius- . Bürger- 2
3 lfska
i
Kirche platz Getreidegasse Juden
Mozarts 1 gas
se G
Geburtshaus
e
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Herbert-von- Alter
gass
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Go
G
Waag-
Brod
Universität
ner
ldgasse
Platz platz
Bürgerwehr
Haff
Spielzeug Kollegien- Residenz-

Ho
St.
Galerie
un d
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Museum Kirche Michael

all
Reichenhaller Straße
ga
Sigm
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to
ss
ds Festspielhäuser Residenz
e
un Reinhardt-
m Haus für Mozart 3 Platz Residenz platz
Sig
Dom
straße
Felsenreitschule Museum der Dom-

Franziskaner-
Hildmann- Moderne Salzburg platz
Kirche
Neutorstraße platz Rupertinum
Dom
Untersberg-
Kapitel-
Johann-Michael- platz
Haydn-Museum
4 5
Ra Joh-Wolf-Straße 16
straße
inb
erg
str Karolinenhöhe Stiftskirche
aß
th
e
508m St. Peter Festun
reu
Steinbruchstraße
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Festungs
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Post Office M chka-
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Am Rainb
ch H
Hospital sb
ans
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0 1/8 mi
0 0.125 km
Previous page: The Neptune fountain in Kapitelplatz.
06_721193-ch02.indd 22 4/21/10 9:53 PM

23
Grillp
arzer-
Mozart
e
str.
ass
ertg
Rup
ße
Adolf-
1 Mozart’s Birthplace
tra
f-Straße Kolping- sse
ose
ers
A2 -Ga
Platz ller
CaféoMozart
am
Baye
asse
rn
National- rtg il-K
lzh
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Rupe Em
Virg
3 House
Hay
e for Mozart
rha
Ste
ass
r-G ass Bank
il g
dns
e
mer
attle
4 Johann-Michael-Haydn-
as
ert-S
Au
Fab
traß
se
stra
e
ers
ass Museum
erst
ße
e
nen
per
Fra
ran
ra
Sch
nz -
5 St. Peter’s Abbey
gst
Andrä-
ße
Wo
Jos
raß
Kirche as s
e
ße
lf-
ef-S
eng 6 St. Peter’s Cemetery
e
stra
Die
hra
nn aße
-Str
tra
tric
l- Sc r- aße
ron hale 7 Salzburg Cathedral
ße
Lod Loreto rt tstr

h-S
ris- Vie aup

Pa er H
traß
is- Kirche os 8 Cafe Konditorei Fürst

Par aße allm
o
e
-S tr 15 Sch
ron 9 Mozart Square
Lod St. Sebastians-
Friedhof 10 Mozart Bridge
Dreif
Bus-
St. Sebastians-
11 Mozart’s Residence
altigk
Terminal-
sität Kirche
Nord
12 Mozarteum
eitsg
eum
Be
.
rgs
13 Magic Flute Lodge

se
ifaltigkeits-
Ber
as
traß
rg
Kirche
gstr.
ze
14 Universität Mozarteum
e
L in
akartplatz
15 St. Sebastian’s Cemetery
Mozart- Ka 16 Mozart Dinner Concert
Wohnhaus pu
Kapuzinerkirche zi
ne
kai rb
Platzl Kapuzinerkloster er
g
St. Johannes-
Kirche
Steingasse
Staats- Giselak
ai
brücke Robert-
e in gas
Rathaus Rudo se
lfska Arenbergstraße
i
Imbergs
Juden
gas
10 Gise
traße
se Georg Trakl Mozart- la kai
e
asse
Alter Unfallkrankenhaus
gass
Gedenkstätte steg
splatz Markt
Go
G
Waag-
Brod
ner
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Galerie
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Platz
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Michael Mozartplatz
f G.
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Salzburg ol
Residenz- Museum fsk
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platz
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ga s
a ss
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llb
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gs Festungsg
Haupt
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Festungs
St. Ehrentraud- Str

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24
S
alzburg is the city of Mozart. The great composer was born
here and lived here until well into his 20s. He composed some of
his greatest works here and the city is alive with his music in festivals
and concerts. You’ll find everything in his name from skiing—the
nearby region of Ski Amadé is named after him—to chocolates, with
the world-famous Mozart Ball. START: Getreidegasse.
1 ★★★ = The unfinished portrait is

Mozart’s Birth- just one of the delights at
place. Getreidegasse Mozart’s Birthplace.
9, in the heart of the
city, is where the say too modern
Mozart family lived in and artsy. @ 1 hr.
Getreidegasse 9.
an apartment from
1747 to 1773. Wolf- y 0662/844313.
www.mozarteum.at.
gang Amadeus Mozart
Admission 7€ adults,
was born here on Janu-
3€ children 15–18,
ary 27, 1756, the sev-
2.50€ 6–14. Daily
enth child of Salzburg
9am–5:30pm; July/
royal chamber musi-
Aug until 8pm.
cian Leopold Mozart.
Today it houses Mozart’s childhood
violin, concert violin, clavichord, and
harpsichord, along with portraits and
2 ★★ Café Mozart. Only a few
steps from where the composer
family letters. The top floor is was born. Grab a heady coffee or
devoted to Mozart and the stage, have a solid start to the day with
with intricate models of his sets and the Mozart Breakfast Exklusive—
music from his operas. It has been a smoked salmon with scrambled
museum since 1880, but recently has eggs plus a glass of prosecco and
annexed an adjoining house and coffee or hot chocolate, rolls, and
undergone a revamp. It is now a honey for only 12€. Getreidegasse
modern, artsy attraction—some may 22. y 0662/843958. www.cafe
mozartsalzburg.at. $–$$.
Café Mozart, across from Mozart’s
Birthplace.
3 House for Mozart. Not a
house, but a hall, part of the Festival
Halls complex (p 43, 9), opened in
2006 as part of Mozart Year, the
250th anniversary of Mozart’s birth.
It was designed by Wilhelm Holz-
bauer, born in Salzburg in 1930, a
student of Clemens Holzmeister, the
architect who created the adjoining
Large Festival Hall. It cleverly incor-
porates the foyer from the former
Small Festival Hall, preserving the
1926 frescoes by Anton Faistauer.
Entry only as part of a Festival Halls
guided tour. @ 1 hr. Hofstallgasse 1.
06_721193-ch02.indd 24 4/21/10 9:53 PM

25
Mozart
Mozart—A Life in Music
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, born in Salzburg in 1756, was a
child prodigy and continued to amaze throughout his short life. He
was playing piano at 3, wrote his first tune aged 4, and composed
his first symphony at the age of 8. He became a virtuoso pianist,
organist, and violinist. Chaperoned by his father, an ambitious
musician himself, young Mozart was constantly touring and playing
for royalty. Reaching adulthood, his audience became bored and
he was forced to get a real job as court organist for the Archbishop
of Salzburg. Among his most famous works are Eine kleine Nacht-
musik (A Little Night Music, 1787) and the operas Don Giovanni
(1787) and Die Zauberflöte (The Magic Flute, 1791). Mozart died
from a fever at 35, leaving a legacy of more than 600 works cover-
ing opera, symphony, concerto, chamber, choral, instrumental,
and vocal music.
y 0662/8045500. www.salzburger sheet music, letters, and modern

festspiele.at. Admission 5€ adults, listening stations as well as instru-
2.90€ children 17 and under, free 5 ments from the period in an historic
and under. Tours daily at 2pm (not setting in the courtyard of St. Peter’s
July during Festival) with more in Abbey. There are also summer
summer months. Reservations music recitals late afternoon. @ 20
needed. Bus: 1. min. Courtyard, Erzabtei St. Peter.
4 Johann-Michael-Haydn- y 0662/84457619. www.concerts-
at-five.com. Admission 2€ adults, 1€
Museum. Haydn followed his
children 17 and under, free 5 and
friend Mozart as court and cathedral
under. May, June, Oct 2–5pm; July–
organist in Salzburg in 1781. This
Sept 12:30–5pm; closed Wed.
small museum combines original
The House for Mozart.
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26
Listen to the Music
Mozart’s music is performed almost non-stop in Mozart Week,
the last week in January. It’s a stirring celebration of Mozart and
more, with concerts by leading orchestras and ensembles. The
Salzburg Festival (p 122) is the world’s most famed celebration of
classical music (late July–end Aug), with plenty of Mozart but open
to other composers. There are music festivals throughout the year
that feature Mozart, and you’d feel hard done by if you arrived in
the city and there wasn’t a concert while you were there.
5 ★★ St. Peter’s Abbey 7 ★★ Salzburg Cathedral.

(Stiftskirche St. Peter). Mozart This baroque masterpiece is where
was associated with the beautiful Mozart played as court organist
church from an early age. Aged just (1773–77), and for which he com-
13, he composed Dominicus Mass in posed most of his sacred music. Turn
1769 for his boyhood friend, Kajetan a sharp left inside the main door and
Rupert Hagenauer, abbot from 1786 you’ll come to the medieval font in
to 1811, conducted his famous which he was christened. His parents
Mass in C minor in the church in were also married here in 1747.
1783, and another Mass, uncom- @ 30 min. See p 9, 4.
pleted, was first performed on Octo-
ber 26, 1783. Mozart conducted
and his wife, Constanze, sang the 8 ★★ Cafe Konditorei Fürst.
soprano part. One of the chapels in Take a breather at the first Fürst.
the south aisle contains a memorial This is where confectioner Paul
to Johann-Michael Haydn and a mar- Fürst started making Mozart Balls
ble plaque for Mozart’s sister, Nan- (as a tribute to the composer) back
nerl. @ 45 min. See p 15, 3. in 1890. Stock up on the moreish
chocs with the composer’s face
6 ★★ = St. Peter’s Ceme- staring out from the silver wrapper,
tery. With its unique backdrop of or relax with coffee and cakes. Alter
St. Peter’s, this is one of the oldest Markt, Brodgasse 13. y 0662/
and most charming cemeteries in 8437590. www.original-mozartkugel.
the world. While Mozart himself com. $–$$. See p 46, 9.
rests in Vienna, here lie his sister
Nannerl, Lorenz Hagenauer (family
friend and landlord), Sigmund Haff- 9 Mozart Square (Mozart-
ner (mayor and Mozart benefactor, platz). A classical square that is
immortalized in Mozart’s Haffner dominated by the statue of Mozart
Serenade and Haffner Symphony), dating back to 1842. Not a terribly
not to mention Michael Haydn (com- good likeness by all accounts, and
poser and Joseph Haydn’s younger clutching a pencil rather than the
brother), opera singer Richard Mayr, appropriate quill, but it’s all the
and many others from musicians to more interesting because of it. You
World War II heroes. @ 30 min. See have the chance to buy a tacky
p 32, 3. souvenir at Zum Mozart (p 77).
@ 5 min. See p 11, 7.
06_721193-ch02.indd 26 4/21/10 9:53 PM

27
0 ★★ Mozart Bridge. Not a
Mozart
bridge that Mozart ever had the
chance to use, but this delicate Art
Nouveau pedestrian river crossing
was named after him. Find it just off
one end of Mozartplatz and use it to
get to the New Town. A short river-
bank stroll gets you to Mozart’s Res-
idence. @ 5 min.
! ★★★ Mozart’s Residence.
Mozart’s family moved to this spa-
cious eight-room apartment (Austrian
signs call it the Mozart-Wohnhaus) in
1773, in what is now Makartplatz.
Young Mozart stayed until 1780 and
composed many works here, includ-
ing countless symphonies, sere-
nades, divertimenti, and five concerts
for violin and piano. The museum—
actually more satisfying than his
Birthplace (p 24, 1)—has a wealth
The cathedral, along with most of Salz-
of original manuscripts and instru- burg’s architectural delights, can best be
ments. The exhibition, with excellent seen from the Mönchsberg.
free audioguide, traces Mozart’s time
here, and his many tours around @ ★★ Mozarteum. The interna-
Europe, including London. The build- tional foundation oversees all
ing also contains the Mozart Sound things Mozart, from the Birthplace
and Film Collection, the world’s and Residence museums to the
largest audiovisual collection of Bibliotheca Mozartiana, a library
Mozart-related works that visitors containing 35,000 items from manu-
can watch on a collection of screens. scripts to books. Entry to the library
@1⁄ 1
2 hr. See p 16, 5. is free, but it’s a place for scholars,
largely German-speaking ones.
The Best of the Best

The most impressive concerts in the city on an almost daily
basis (more than 300 a year) are the Salzburger Schlosskonzertes
by the Salzburger Mozartsolisten in the Mirabell Palace’s beautiful
Marble Hall (Marmorsaal). No costume drama, just small ensembles
of slightly dissolute chaps (and the occasional beautiful woman) in
black suits play to several dozen people, with Eine kleine Nacht-
musik, the equivalent of a rock ’n’ roll band finishing with a Chuck
Berry number. Another tip is to visit the cathedral for 10am Sunday
Mass. It varies, but can well be a Mozart Mass, involving a massive
organ, choir, and strings creating an emotional sound. Moreover,
it’s free—just arrive at least 20 minutes early as it fills up.
06_721193-ch02.indd 27 4/21/10 9:53 PM

28
y 0662/8894013. www.mozarteum.
at. Library: free admission. Mon,
Tues, Fri 9am–1pm; Wed/Thurs
1am–5pm.
# ★★ Magic Flute Lodge. The
Lodge (the Zauberflötenhäuschen) is
in the Bastion Garden outside the
Mozarteum’s Large Hall, and can be
visited, free, but only during con-
certs. The small wooden building is
where Mozart supposedly composed
elements of his Magic Flute master-
piece. He met singers here for
rehearsals and is said to have been
locked in by his librettist, Emanuel
Schikaneder, to ensure he completed
the work on time. @ 10 min. Free
admission during concerts only.
$ Universität Mozarteum. Salz-
The impressive entrance to Mozart’s burg’s revered music school is sur-
Residence. rounded by students with bicycles
and instrument cases. It’s not a place
There is also a major concert hall to visit, but students put on daily
where top names appear during the (usually free) recitals in its small stu-
Mozarteum’s Mozart Festival (p 121) dios. Look for the unassuming poster
each January. You may find the in the window for a heady array of
foyer open for ticket sales at certain bargain performances here, along
times so you can get a feel for the with a list of larger concerts by the
place. @ 10 min. Schwarzstrasse 26. students at other venues. @ 5 min.
The Mozart Bridge.
06_721193-ch02.indd 28 4/21/10 9:53 PM

29
Mozart
Buy the Music
There’s no shortage of Mozart music on CD. The gift shops at
both Mozart’s Birthplace (p 24, 1) and Residence (p 27, !) have a
good selection, as does the shop at the Festival Halls (p 43, 9). The
shop at the Salzburg Museum (p 41, 6) also has a music section,
and gift shops at other attractions generally have some. Realisti-
cally, though, there’s little that qualifies as a real souvenir, or that
you can’t find cheaper on the Internet. A good keepsake, and
something you won’t find elsewhere, is the album on sale at the
Mozart Dinner Concert (below, ^).
Mirabellplatz 1. y 0662/61983125.
period clothing; while the food is a
www.moz.ac.at. Recitals daily; prices
modern take on an historic menu—
vary but usually free.
breast of roasted capon on truffled
% ★ St. Sebastian’s Cemetery cream of sage with polenta, potato-
(Friedhof St. Sebastian). This stuffed pear, and vegetables. @ 3
beautifully tranquil spot hidden away hr. Reservations recommended. See
off the traffic-free street in the oldest p 122.
part of the New Town is a bit of a
treasure trove for Mozart comple-
Mozart’s father Leopold is buried in
tists. The grave of Mozart’s father,
St. Sebastian’s Cemetery.
Leopold, is the one most people
come to see (it’s rather unassuming,
near the gate), but you’ll also find
Mozart’s wife Constanze, her second
husband and her aunt, Mozart’s
grandmother, and his sister Nannerl’s
first daughter. @ 15 min. Linzer-
gasse. y 0662/84457687. www.
stift-stpeter.at. Free admission. Daily
8am–6pm (winter hours may vary).
^ ★ Mozart Dinner Concert.

There are various dinner concert
options around the city, but this is
the one you should start with in the
charming candlelit setting of the
Baroque Hall in what is accepted as
the oldest restaurant in central
Europe, first mentioned in the year
803 when Charlemagne dropped by.
Mozart classics, both musical pieces
and opera excerpts, are performed
on piano and stringed instruments
and by singers all kitted out in lavish
06_721193-ch02.indd 29 4/21/10 9:53 PM

30
The Sound of Music
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1 Nonnberg Benedictine Convent
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4 Horse Pond Felsenreitschule 5 Platz
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straße
5 Rock Riding School Dom-

Hildmann- Moderne Salzburg Kirche platz
6 Mönchsberg Terrace platz Rupertinum
Neutorstraße Dom
Untersberg-
7 Universitätsplatz
Johann-Michael- Kapitelplatz
Ra8 Residenzplatz & Residenz Haydn-Museum
Joh-Wolf-Straße
straße
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str
aß Karolinenhöhe St. Peter St. Peter
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10 Steinbruchstraße
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12 Mirabell Gardens
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17 Salzburg Marionette Theater
06_721193-ch02.indd 30 4/21/10 9:53 PM

31
The Sound of Music

ße
Adolf- Schloss
16 Leopoldskron South Salzburg
tra
f-Straße Kolping-
ose
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Platz Schloss Freisaal
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Universität
taler Hauptst
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lzh
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Hay
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traß
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Platzl g
St. Johannes- Schloss
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St
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brücke ai
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14
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e Jungk-Platz Ste Schloss-
in gas
Rathaus se park
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G
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Kirche platz r
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Dommuseum Kajetaner To
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Kirche He
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3 Festun gasse asse ru
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06_721193-ch02.indd 31 4/21/10 9:53 PM

32
The Hills Are Alive
Wallersee
0 5 mi Irrsee
Henndorf
Kasten
0 5 km
Eugendorf 20
Hallwang Mondsee
Bergheim 21
A1 E55
Thalgau E60
Freilassing 1 Plainfeld Mondsee
20
Fuschlsee
23 Fuschl
Ebenau
Salzburg Scharfling
Salzburg Glasenbach St. Gilgen
Airport Vordersee
W.A. Mozart Anif 22
Wiestalstausee Hintersee Zwölferhorn St. Wolfgang
Oberasch 1521m
RG
BE Niederalm Wolfgangsee
AUSTRIA
RS
18
Salzach
TE
Hintersee
OSTERHO
Zinkenbach
UN
Adnet
Marktschellenberg Hallein
18 Untersberg
Winkl 19
19 The mountains
RNG
Vigaun
GERMANY 20 A picnic in Mondsee
RUP
Berchtesgaden 21 Mondsee
PE
305 22 Schafberg
Kuchl 23 The Sound of Salzburg
I t was an unlikely movie hit: a true love story amid the tale of an
Austrian family troupe hounded by Nazis as World War II nears.
Yet the Rodgers and Hammerstein songs and music were outstand-
ing and had already made it a Broadway hit. Interest is higher than
ever, with plenty of timeless settings to see. START: Nonnberg Bene-
dictine Convent. TRIP LENGTH: 1 or 2 days.
1 ★★ Nonnberg Benedictine St. Rupert and St. Virgil. @ 20 min.

Convent. It’s here, on the edge of Nonnberggasse 2. y 0662/841607.
the Mönchsberg, that Maria was www.benediktinerinnen.de. Free
late for Mass, and where the nuns admission. Daily 7am–dusk, closed
sung How Do You Solve a Problem during Mass.
Like Maria?. The gates are seen as
2 Nonntaler Hauptstrasse.
German troops storm in. In real life,
This is the street near the convent
this is where Maria and the Baron
where Maria and the children were
were married in 1927. The 15th-cen-
seen riding in a horse-drawn carriage
tury Gothic building on 11th-century
on their tour of the city. @ 5 min.
Romanesque foundations contains a
wealth of beautiful works including 3 St. Peter’s Cemetery. A
Romanesque frescoes and the late- short walk through the Old Town
Gothic winged altar with a shrine and you arrive at the ancient ceme-
adorned by a Madonna between tery with its wrought-iron gates
06_721193-ch02.indd 32 4/21/10 9:53 PM

33
The Sound of Music

The Sound of Music Story
The movie of The Sound of Music was released in 1965. It won
five Oscars, including Best Picture and Best Director (Robert Wise).
There were a further 10 nominations, including one for Julie
Andrews who leapt to stardom in her role as Maria. It also won two
Golden Globes and a host of other awards. The film, which also
e starred Christopher Plummer as Captain von Trapp, was based on
the successful stage musical inspired by Maria von Trapp’s autobi-
ography The Story of the Trapp Family Singers. After the Trapps
Scharfling fled Austria—recounted in the movie’s gripping finale—they set-
tled in the U.S. where the Trapp Family Lodge is still one of the
leading hotels in the Vermont ski resort of Stowe.
St. Wolfgang
Wolfgangsee
where the Trapp family tried to hide 7 Universitätsplatz. This is the
Zinkenbach
as they fled from the approaching square housing the market (now the
Nazi troops. It was here that Liesl’s Green Market, p 77) where Maria
boyfriend, Rolf, glimpsed them, but and her charges played with the
allowed them to make their escape. fruit and veg, and little Gretl
@ 15 min. See p 26, 6. dropped a ripe tomato. @ 5 min.
4 = Horse Pond (Pferde- 8 = Residenzplatz & Res-
schwemme). This large pond is idenz Fountain. Maria strolls into
where Maria and the singing, danc- the square at the side of the cathe-
ing children stopped to look at the dral through one of the imposing
large statue of a groom trying to arches dividing it from Domplatz
rein in a horse as they excitedly (Cathedral Square) to catch a bus on
explored the city. @ 5 min. her way from the Nonnberg Convent
Herbert-von-Karajan-Platz. to the Trapp Villa. She passes the
5 Rock Riding School. Here, in elegant fountain, and splashes the
water, singing I Have Confidence in
the open-air Felsenreitschule, the
Me. The Residenz is also seen omi-
Trapp family performed their farewell
nously covered in Nazi flags towards
song and Baron von Trapp sang Edel-
the end of the movie. @ 15 min.
weiss before slipping away into the
night and confounding the Nazis. 9 Kapitelplatz. This is the
Now an open-air theater and part of square, on the other side of the
the Festival Halls complex, it is only cathedral, where Maria is seen
accessible as part of a guided tour. boarding her bus, with views of the
@ 1 hr. small Horse Pond in the back-
6 = Mönchsberg Terrace. ground. @ 5 min.
Now the terrace of the Museum 0 = Mozart Bridge. After
der Moderne (Museum of Modern walking across Mozart Square, you’ll
Art, p 40, 1) this is the spot where find this Art Nouveau footbridge
the children sang Do-Re-Mi as they across the river—a pretty, iron
enjoyed the panoramic views of the affair—where Maria and the chil-
city. @ 10 min. dren were seen cavorting. @ 5 min.
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34
The Sound of Music Tour makes a stop at Wolfgangsee.
! Riverbank. The grassy banks on Take bus no. 25 for 15 minutes to

the New Town side are where Maria Hellbrunn.
and the children ran in single file as $ The Sound of Music Pavil-
they sang, with little Gretl falling then ion. Hellbrunn Palace (p 19, 1) is
picking herself up and catching up famed for its dancing fountains (for
with the others. @ 5 min. which there is a charge) but the
@ ★★★ = Mirabell Gardens. expansive grounds are free. Just
Perhaps the most iconic spot for The inside the gate, you’ll find the gazebo
Sound of Music fans, as here you’ll where Liesl and Rolf sang 16 Going
find the steps where the children on 17 and Maria and the Captain
sang Do-Re-Mi. They marched around sang Something Good. At the time,
the Pegasus Fountain and cavorted in the pavilion was at the Leopoldskron
front of the grand fountain. Maria and Palace but was moved when the pal-
the children also danced down the ace owners became tired of fans
hedge-covered arch, and the young- climbing over their wall to get at it.
sters imitated the dramatic poses of There’s little to see (it’s rather like a
the statues of fighting men. Another small conservatory, and it’s locked)
statue, of a bespectacled dwarf, but you can relax in the park happy
received a pat on the head. The glori- in the knowledge that you’ve seen it.
ous gardens combine the city’s A brief visit covers the movie setting,
beauty with the movie’s upbeat joy. but if you take in the gardens, foun-
@ 30 min. See p 12, 0. tains, and zoo you could easily spend
longer here. @ 25 min. See p 19, 1.
# Flöckner Brot. Just across % Frohnburg Palace. A pleas-

the road from the Mirabell Gardens ing stroll along the treelined Hellb-
is this little bakery, part of a small runner Allee brings you to this
chain that was born in 1837. They palace, which served as the von
sell a wide range of (mostly organic) Trapp residence in the movie. You
breads, pastries, cookies, pretzels, might find yourself confused at first
and cakes for a picnic, or you can eat as the front was filmed as the back
in the small cafe area and garden. of the Trapp home (overlooking the
Mirabellplatz 7. y 0662/871438. lake, which isn’t here) and the rear
www.floeckner.at. $. was seen as the front of the house.
Maria jumped off the bus in the
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35
The Sound of Music

Allee when she arrived at the gates
for her job with the Trapp family.
There’s no entry as it’s private (part
of the Mozarteum music school) but
you can take a walk around the out-
side, peeking through the gates and
railings. @ 20 min. See p. 27, @.
Grab bus no. 25 back and jump
off at Sinnhubstrasse. Walk 10
minutes through green and pleas-
ant backstreets to:
^ Leopoldskron Palace. A pri-
vate educational institution, Leopolds-
kron is only viewable from across
the lake (unless you’re staying in The children danced around the Pegasus
one of the exclusive hotel rooms). Fountain in Mirabel Gardens.
This was where Maria and the chil-
dren fell from their boat, although on foot, a pleasing walk under the
the palace’s ornate waterside gar- Mönchsberg (p 9, 2), with views up
dens were off-limits even then and to the convent (p 32, 1). The only
the outdoor scenes were filmed out- way you can get in and see all the
side the adjoining Meierhof build- sights is by renting one of the hotel
ing (now part of the Leopoldskron rooms. @ 15 min. See p 139.
campus) with the famed lakeside & = Salzburg Marionette
horse statues re-creations of the Theater. The puppet theater that
original a few yards away. Winter is featured in the movie (lonely goat-
particularly nice, with the lake used herds et al) now turns full circle with
for ice skating. The Venetian Room its own 90-minute tribute The Sound
was recreated in the studios in of Music performance. Jerky, Thun-
larger form for the ballroom scenes. derbirds-like puppets combine with
Retrace your steps to the bus the Rodgers and Hammerstein
stop—although you can continue soundtrack in English, especially
The Mirabell Gardens steps made famous in The Sound of Music.
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36
The Sound of Music Pavilion.
recorded in the United States. It’s a Alpenstrasse, which passes under

bizarrely riveting spectacle, particu- the A10 autobahn and heads into
larly the appearance of the giant, the village of St. Leonhard (20 min-
human chief nun. It alternates with utes from Salzburg) and its cable
other shows, but a 5:30pm perfor- car. Alternatively, bus no. 25 takes
mance (it’s also on at 2pm and you to the bottom of the cable car.
7:30pm) doesn’t take over your eve-
* Untersberg. Take the cable
ning. @ 13⁄4 hr. See p 121.
car up the top of this mountain. This
is where the Trapp family was seen
Day Two pretending to be hiking as they fled
the Nazis. See p 85.
TRAVEL TIP Take the A10 south for around 20
You can take in a number of spots minutes for the scenery, until you
with movie connections in the area reach Hallein.
surrounding Salzburg. Various com- ( The mountains. Many of the
panies run bus tours but they don’t movie’s opening scenes—including
cover all the bases as the places are Maria singing The Hills Are Alive) were
widely spread. Hire a car and you filmed by helicopters above the peaks
can nip around them all—although to the south of Salzburg. The spots
just about everyone you meet will are all but impossible to get to even
have a different story about where if you could identify them, but you
the mountain scenes were really can get the feel by driving around.
filmed.
At the town of Hallein, turn around
and head back up the A10 past the
Take the riverside Rudolfskai city. Turn right onto the A1, which
south from the Old Town. It takes you all the way to Mondsee,
quickly becomes the busy an hour’s journey.
06_721193-ch02.indd 36 4/21/10 9:53 PM

37
w Schafberg. This bald peak
The Sound of Music

) A picnic in Mondsee. The (Sheep Mountain) on the banks of
simple, grassy waterfront park in
Wolfgangsee is where Maria and her
Mondsee, on the lake of the same
charges were briefly seen on the lit-
name, isn’t a place that featured in
tle, red cog train. The train still runs.
the movie—but the children would
See p 149, 3.
have loved to frolic here with Maria.
Plan to have brought something Head back to St. Gilgen and turn
with you (the car park’s nearby), or left, which will take you all the
take the short stroll into town where way back into the heart of the
there are plenty of delis. Robert- city in about 40 minutes.
Baum-Promenade, Mondsee. $.
“ The Sound of Salzburg.

q Mondsee. In the lake district, Finish the day with this dinner show
half an hour east of Salzburg, the by the Sound of Music Singers, not
town of Mondsee is where you’ll quite sing-along-a-Sound-of-Music,
find the church where the wedding but not far off. The show, in period
of Maria and the Baron was filmed. costume, not only includes the big
Just outside the town is where movie numbers, but also the Trapp
Maria and the children were seen Family Folk Music Revival. Dinner is
on a lakeside bicycle ride—take the what you might expect: roast pork
lakeside road on the eastern side of and apple strudel, in a candlelit set-
the lake and you soon reach the ting. Sternbräu Dinner Theater,
spot where the road hugs the Griesgasse 23. y 0662/826617.
water. See p 151, 0. www.soundofsalzburgshow.com.
Nightly 7:30pm. Tickets incl. one
Turn back and follow the road
drink and three-course dinner. 46€
around the lake to St. Gilgen. Here
adults, 37€ children 7–14. $$. See
the road splits—turn left along
p 123.
Wolfgangsee, circling the bottom
of the lake to St. Wolfgang.
Leopoldskron, where the children fell from their rowing boat.
06_721193-ch02.indd 37 4/21/10 9:53 PM

38
Art & Architecture
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06_721193-ch02.indd 38 4/21/10 9:53 PM

39
Art & Architecture

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40
T
he buildings of Salzburg tell their own story. The city’s
baroque architecture is world-famous. One of the best-preserved
cities north of the Alps, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site
in 1997. Yet it’s not just the outside—within are superlative collec-
tions of art, from baroque to classical, religious to modern, as well as
much hidden history. START: Mönchsberg elevator.
1 ★ Museum der Moderne. 2 Museum der Moderne

The Museum of Modern Art has, Rupertinum. Walk down from the
from the streets below, a jokey cliff- Mönchsberg via the path on the far
top appearance with gaudy lettering side of the funicular and you drop
and a child-like tower, but close up into the city streets just around the
it’s simplistic and exciting. Take the corner from this sister modern art
Mönchsberg elevator up through the gallery. There’s more of the same,
mountain and you move from the along with collections such as the
historic streets to the new world. The works of Gustav Klimt, including Lit-
serious, regularly changing exhibi- zlberg am Attersee, one of the art-
tions can be a little heavy (given the ist’s few landscapes, plus the charm
wealth of beauty outside) but the of an early baroque 14th-century
building is worth exploring, and it’s building that used to be a training
free with the Salzburg Card (p 165). hall for priests. @ 30 min. Wiener-
From here, you can gaze over the Philharmoniker-Gasse 9. y 0662/
cityscape and marvel at the range of 842220451. www.museumder
elegant baroque buildings, the twin moderne.at. Admission 6€ adults,
cathedrals of the Dom and St. Peter’s 4€ children 6–15. Tues–Sun 10am–
almost next to each other, the nar- 6pm (Wed until 9pm); summer/Easter
row, medieval streets, and the Mira- Mon 10am–6pm.
bell Palace. @ 30 min. Mönchsberg
3 Dommuseum. The Cathedral
32. y 0662/842220401. www.
Museum, high in the galleries, has a
museumdermoderne.at. Admission
rich, heady collection of artwork
8€ adults, 6€ children 6–15. Tues–
from the Archdiocese of Salzburg as
Sun 10am–6pm (Wed until 8pm);
well as the cathedral itself. The
summer/Easter Mon 10am–6pm.
Museum of Modern Art.
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41
Art & Architecture

2.50€ adults, 1€ children 6–15. July–
Aug daily 9am–5pm; rest of year by
appointment.
5 ★★ Kapitelplatz Market.
The square next to the cathedral
has a number of stalls, some of
them selling trinkets and souvenirs,
some of them selling snacks. Grab a
giant pretzel, sit on a bench, and
enjoy the contrasting styles—the
Dom’s Italianate towers on one
side, the looming Hohensalzburg
Fortress on the other, with alto-
gether more delicate buildings in
between. Kapitelplatz. $.
6 ★★ = Salzburg Museum.
This is your chance to get inside the
Neue Residenz with its courtyard,
in a museum that only opened in
2007, yet which won European
Museum of the Year 2009. Contem-
The Sphaera (or Man on Mozartkugel) in porary and historic art, special exhi-
Kapitelplatz. bitions, and more than a touch of city
history are all the more interesting
highlight is St. Rupert’s Cross, the and state-of-the-art than one might
largest surviving metal cross, dating expect. In one of the towers, and
back 1,300 years and which was visible from the courtyard, is a clock-
believed to have been mounted in work glockenspiel that has been
the first Salzburg cathedral. You’ll
also be treated to views of the city Salzburg Museum.
and cathedral interior. @ 30 min.
Domplatz 1a. www.kirchen.net/
dommuseum. Admission 5€ adults,
1.50€ children 15 and under. Mon–
Sat 10am–5pm, Sun/Festival 11am–
6pm.
4 Cathedral Excavations
Museum. This is a dark, evocative
time capsule under two squares,
Residenzplatz and Domplatz. There
are the remains of a Roman villa
(including mosaics, walls, and
sewer), and foundations and wall
fragments of the Romanesque
cathedral that was demolished in
1598 after a fire. @ 1 hr. Residenz-
platz. y 0662/620808131. www.
salzburgmuseum.at. Admission
06_721193-ch02.indd 41 4/21/10 9:53 PM

42
7 ★ Panorama Museum. In the

Salzburg Museum’s basement is the
awesome panorama of Salzburg by
Johann Michael Sattler painted
between 1826 and 1829. It’s a
clever circular painting, more than
25m (80 ft.) in circumference, in
which you stand in the middle, get-
ting views of the city and the sur-
rounding countryside. A Time
Telescope allows comparison
between the present and the eerily
accurate snap of the past. @ 15
min. Mozartplatz 1. y 0662/620808-
730. www.salzburgmuseum.at.
Admission 2€ adults, 1€ children 15
and under. Daily 9am–5pm (Thurs
until 8pm).
8 Karajan-Platz. This is a superb
square dedicated to world-famous
conductor Herbert von Karajan
(1908–89), who ousted Archbishop
The ornate Horse Pond in Karajan-Platz. Sigismund Christian Schrattenbach
from the name plaques. The classic
playing music since 1704, and the marble architecture butts up against
repertoire includes pieces by Haydn the Mönchsberg, right by the tunnel
and Mozart. @ 1 hr. Mozartplatz 1. out of the Old Town, the oldest road
y 0662/620808700. www.salzburg tunnel in Austria. In the middle,
museum.at. Admission 7€ adults, 3€ you’ll see the wonderful, ornate
children 15 and under. Daily 9am– Horse Pond (p 33, 4) with mighty
5pm (Thurs until 8pm); closed Mon central statue, The Horse Tamer,
Sept–Nov, Jan–June. one of Salzburg’s best, dating back
City of Churches
Salzburg has more than 20 churches and cathedrals, most in
the heart of the city or within a short stroll, with a wealth of variety,
from baroque to Gothic, Romanesque to medieval. If you’ve already
done the Dom and St. Peter’s, next on your list should be the
Franziskanerkirche—the Franciscan church (Siegmund Haffner-
Gasse, www.kirchen.net/franziskanerkirche/geschichte2.htm) with
its Gothic choir, delicate pillars, and ribbed ceiling. St. Andrew’s
(Andräkirche), on Mirabellplatz, is generally passed by in a rush but
it is worth a look for its blend of late 19th-century Gothic and mod-
ern simplicity due to much of it being destroyed in World War II. The
website www.salzburg.info has a good section on all the churches.
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43
Art & Architecture

to the 17th century when the royal
stables were nearby. @ 10 min.
9 Festival Halls. The complex
that’s at the heart of the Salzburg
Festival (p 122) is worth a look even
when there’s nothing going on. The
Large Festival Hall, House for Mozart
(p 24, 3), and the Rock Riding
School (p 33, 5) can be admired
during a guided tour in English.
@ 1 hr. Hofstallgasse 1. y 0662/
8045500. www.salzburgfestival.at.
Tours 5€ adults, 2.90€ children 11
and under. Daily 2pm (not July), with
additional tours in high season.
0 ★ Salzburger Barockmu-
seum. Head across the Makartsteg
bridge into the Mirabell Gardens
(p 12, 0) and you find an impres- The Salzburger Barockmuseum is discreet
sive art hoard tucked away in a for- but packed with astonishing works.
mer orangery. The collection
focuses on the early days of
Linzergasse, with a view of St. Sebastian’s baroque art, the drawings and pre-
Church. paratory oils from which extrava-
gant masterpieces by the likes of
Rubens evolve. To the untrained eye
many look perfect—it’s difficult to
believe they were only the starting
point for greater works. @ 30 min.
Orangerie des Mirabellgartens.
y 0662/87743217. www.barock
museum.at. Admission 4.50€ adults,
3.70€ children 15 and under. Wed–
Sun 10am–5pm; Tues–Sun July–Aug.
! ★ Linzergasse. This pictur-
esque street, from the Staatsbrücke
bridge into the oldest part of the
New Town, is subtly different to the
Old Town. The latter became filled
with elegant shops while here were
merchants and services such as
gunsmiths, coopers, and chemists.
In fact no. 3 is where famed scientist
Paracelsus lived from 1540 to
1541. The architecture is less grand
than across the river but every bit
as interesting. @ 20 min.
06_721193-ch02.indd 43 4/21/10 9:53 PM

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ing
a
zg.
tt e Rathaus sse
ng Rudo
Blasius- . Bürger- 2 6 lfsk ai Hospital
Imberg
Kirche platz Getreidegasse Mozarts Juden s traße
11 Alter
gass Mozart- Gise
Geburtshaus e Georg Trakl laka
Herbert-von- Markt steg i Unfallkrankenhaus
asse
Karajan- 4 5 1 Waag-
er G
Museum 9
Ho
affn
3 Mozartplatz Rehrl-Platz
fst
Goldg.
Residenz-
H
Kollegien-
all
10 St. Mozartplatz
sse
Bürgerwehr
ga
Kirche Galerie
und
Reichenhalle
ss
r Straße Michael
e
S
Max- Salzburg
f Ga
Rud
olfs
Sigm
Museum
Stie eb.-
1 Holztrattner Bakery Festspielhäuser, Reinhardt- Residenzplatz kai Ign
Platz Residenz Neue Universität a
Gourmet Salzburg
Haus für Mozart z-R

Karolinen- ie de
2 Sporer Wines & Spirits & Felsenreitschule Museum der Dom Residenz Basteigasse brücke r-K
Franziskaner- Domplatz ai
Moderne Salzburg Panorama Pfeife
r
3 Vom FassHildmann- Kirche Museum To
gas
Neutorstraße platz Rupertinum as s Kajetaner He

Rudolfs-
se
Dommuseum llb
4 Green Market Kirche run
Stiftskirche Kapitelplatz gas platz n
Kapitel se Fra
5 Holzermayr Chocolates St. Peter Kaigasse
Krotachg e
Johann-Michael- 7
nz-
Hin
& Confectionery Haydn-Museum Erzbischöfliches Kajetanerplatz Landesgericht ter
Joh- Wolf-Straße
Straße Kaiga
s ho
Palais se Schan lze
Katakomben zlga He r-K
raße
6 Kaslöchl Karolinenhöhe Herrengasse sse ll br a i

Friedhof u
hstraße
508m se nn
t
7 St. Peter’s Abbey Bakery St. Peter
Festun asse
gsg as er
Festungsg
reu
Steinbruchstr.
Hauptst
S tr
StieglKeller aß
ckl
8 Konditorei Ratzka Stift St. Ehrentraud- e
Bu
M
ö Nonnberg Kirche ler
a
Festungs
n nnt ße
tr.
9 Cafe Konditorei Fürst No ptstra

ch Festung sse u
ga
nns
Jose
10 Stiegl Brauwelt sb Oskar-Kokos Hohensalzburg bahn rg Ha f Pre
be
is A
bru
er chka-Weg
g llee
nn
Straße
ers
Rainb St. Erhard-

No
erg 11 Balkan Grill

Erzabt Klotz
Pet
Kirche
berg
r.
tst
Rain
up
Am
Ha
er
tal
nn
No
4/21/10 9:53 PM
45
Gourmet Salzburg
ustrian food isn’t just pork and sauerkraut; today’s Austria
is a gastronomic destination with a commitment to local,
organic food. In Salzburg, modern cuisine pays homage to hearty
mountain fare, with traditional dishes, coffee houses, farm produce,
e
llee
and chocolate treats. Salzburg is also Austria’s beer capital with

is A
f Pre
frothy Märzen brewed since 1492. START: Kapitelplatz.

Jose
Straße
but meanders along paths and
Erzabt Klotz
nns
tr. 1 ★ Holztrattner Bakery. Not roads to the Festival Halls. @ 40
nnt ße
ers
bru just a bakery—40 different types of
aler
min. Universitätsplatz.
No ptstra
Pet
dough turn out a phantasmagorical
u
Kirche
5 ★ Holzermayr Chocolates &

Ha
variety of bread along with fruit loaf,

Confectionery. Joseph Holzer-
St. Erhard-
Danish pastries, and grissini to die

Kirche
for. Take out a bundle or try for one mayr’s chocolates were so well
sse
r.
of the three tables where everyone regarded that Archduke Franz Ferdi-
ga
tst
Stift
Nonnberg
up
rg
be from students to businessmen nand appointed him as purveyor to

Ha
nn
er
No
tal
No
nn choose homemade lunch from a the Imperial Court in 1890. The com-
daily changing menu. Brodgasse 9. pany produces its own Mozartkugel
y 0662/841682. $. (p 76), the famed chocolate-dipped
Hohensalzburg
marzipan Mozart Ball, as well as a

Festung
version for diabetics. The shop is an

2 ★★ Sporer Wines & Spirits. exercise in nostalgia with sweets
The narrowest building in this his- and candies, sugared almonds,
torical street dates back to 1407. It’s and much more. @ 15 min. Alter
an Aladdin’s cave stocked with fine Markt 7. y 0662/842365. www.en.
hn
stungsba liqueurs, punches, and schnapps in holzermayr.at.
100-year-old casks lining the walls.
6 Kaslöchl. The quirky wooden
chka-Weg
Distilling goes on upstairs, with tast-

ings in the vaults. Try the orange storefront opens onto a tiny space
hiding a treasure trove of cheese
Oskar-Kokos
punch, made from the same recipe

since 1927. Lots of Austrian (and dating back to 1892 (the shop, not
very local) wines too. @ 20 min. the cheese). There are up to 150
Getreidegasse 39. y 0662/8454314. varieties, many organic, almost all
www.sporer.at.
g
The Green Market has a wealth of local

er
3 ★★ Vom Fass. A quaint little produce.

sb
place that concentrates on oils, vine-

ch
gars, and liqueurs. You can find the

n
ö
highly rated Styrian pumpkin seed

M
oil, and a goodly selection of

schnapps and vinegars in an extraor-
dinary number of varieties. Take your
own bottle, or buy one of the individ-
ually labeled ones. @ 20 min. Gold-
gasse 5. y 0662/849316.
Bu
berg 4 ★★★ Green Market. The

Ernst-S Rain
Am city’s major market is a beautiful
place to stroll among the fresh fruit
and vegetables, pungent cheeses,
sizzling sausages, and crusty
breads. It starts on Universitätsplatz
erg
Rainb
06_721193-ch02.indd 45 4/21/10 9:53 PM

46
Buying Time
This isn’t a tour you should attempt on a Sunday. Many shops,
particularly those which involve cafes or sell souvenirs, are now open
on a Sunday, but some aren’t, including markets. Salzburg Festival
time, however, can bring out the entrepreneur in the most traditional
shopkeeper. Most shops are open 10am to 6pm Monday to Friday
and 10am to 5pm on Saturday. Bakers may be open from 6:30am,
and food shops from around 8am. Some still close for lunch.
Austrian. Try the Vorarlberger

Hochalpkäse, hard, rich, and Aus- picnic in the adjoining St. Peter’s
tria’s highest mountain cheese aged Cemetery (p 26, 6), ancient and
up to 18 months. Other treats soothing. Kapitelplatz 8. y 0662/
434187. Closed Wed. $.
include organic Parma ham and (per-
haps an acquired taste) sheep’s milk
chocolates. @ 30 min. Hagenauer- 8 ★★ Konditorei Ratzka. Aus-
platz 2. y 0662/844100. www. tria’s gourmet guide, the Gault Mil-
kasloechl.at. lau, has declared this the country’s
best cake shop, and it’s easy to see
7 ★★ St. Peter’s Abbey Bak- why—the display cases are a riot
ery. Salzburg’s oldest bakery, men- of custard and cream, tarts, and
tioned in records dating back to the strudels. Choose from 20 options
12th century, is in a building next to daily, not least the famed apricot
the ancient waterwheel at the foot of Marillenfleck and the raspberry-truf-
the Hohensalzburg Fortress. Original fle torte. @ 15 min. Imbergstrasse
wood-burning ovens give a special 45. y 0662/640024.
finish to the natural sourdough 9 ★★ Cafe Konditorei Fürst.
loaves. Bring some cheese and The Holy Grail for those in search of
Holzermayr creates Mozart Balls, a traditional treat of Salzburg.
06_721193-ch02.indd 46 4/21/10 9:53 PM

47
Gourmet Salzburg
the Mozart Ball (p 76), that pista-
chio-marzipan-nougat-chocolate
sensation. It was first made here, in
this classic coffee house with gar-
dens, in 1890. Creator Paul Fürst’s
great-grandson Norbert continues
the tradition with lots of other choc-
olatey delights and pastries. There’s
a further cafe and two shops in the
Old Town. @ 15 min. Alter Markt,
Brodgasse 13. y 0662/843759-0.
www.original-mozartkugel.com.
Cross the river, take the no. 1 bus

from Mirabellplatz to the Bräu-
hausstrasse stop.
0 ★★ Stiegl Brauwelt. Salz-
Cafe Konditorei Fürst, home of the first
burg’s iconic beer, Stiegl, dating back
Mozart Ball.
to the 15th century, is celebrated in
a rather charming museum at the
brewery complex near the airport. ! ★★★ Balkan Grill. Well, yes,
Entry gets you a beer tasting, and it is a hotdog stand but one that’s
there’s a shop to buy beer to take taken on iconic status. It serves the
home, and a beer garden, as well as Bosna, what was originally a Bulgar-
restaurants. @ 1 hr. Bräuhausstrasse ian staple that is now a Salzburg tra-
9. y 0662/83871492. www.brauwelt. dition as everyone from gastronomes
at. Museum: admission 9€ adults, 4€ to local workers cluster around the
children 6–16, free 5 and under. Daily unassuming window. And what for?
10am–5pm (July/Aug 7pm); pub and A grilled pork bratwurst, with onions,
beer garden daily 10am–midnight; fresh parsley, and a secret blend of
Paracelsus restaurant lunch & dinner spices. Plus many variations on a
Tues–Sat. Bus: 1. See p 106. theme. Getreidegasse 33. y 0662/
841483. $.
Take the bus back to the Old Town.
Organic Delights
Austria has been hailed for its ‘aristocratic’ green sensibility,
and you’ll rarely find food with less of a carbon footprint. Long
before it was trendy, locally produced food from farms using natu-
ral methods has been the way of life. Now it is even more so. In
1993, the Austria Bio Garantie (ABG) was founded, the first certifica-
tion body for organic products in Austria. Today the group (www.
abg.at) carries out inspections down every link of the food chain,
and involves 10,700 organic farmers and 900 processors. Finding
organic produce in restaurants is the norm rather than exception,
yet little fuss is made as it’s what’s been expected for generations.
06_721193-ch02.indd 47 4/21/10 9:53 PM

48
The Magic of Christmas
St. Maria- Adolf-
raße
Schwa
Kirche rgst f-Straße Kolping-
n ose
c he rspe Salzburg z-J
Rain
Salz
Elisabe
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tt e Mozarts
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n Rathaus Rudo
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Blasius- . Bürger- ai
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Karajan- Universitätsplatz
a
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ga
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sto Max-
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Festspielhäuser
e
nd Reinhardt- Residenz
mu Residenz platz
Sig Platz
straße
Franziskaner-
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platz Rupertinum
Neutorstraße Dom
Untersberg-
Kapitelplatz
Johann-Michael-
Haydn-Museum 8
Ra Joh-Wolf-Straße
inb
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ße St. Peter
508m Festun
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06_721193-ch02.indd 48 4/21/10 9:53 PM

49

ße
Adolf-
1 Salzburg Christkindlmarkt
tra
f-Straße Kolping-
ose
ers
Platz 2 Getreidegasse
am
se
National- rtgas
lzh
Rupe 3 Mirabellplatz Christmas Market
Hay
se Bank Ste
-Gas
tler
dns
at 4 Mirabell Market Stalls

ert-S
Au
Fab
traß
sse
ers
a
erst
eng 5 Barockmuseum Christmas Market

e
per
Fra
n
ran
raße
Sch
nz-
gst
Andrä-
6 Hellbrunner Adventzauber
Wo
Jos
raß
Kirche se
gas
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ße
ef-S
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ran Stra
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ße
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h -S
ris-L Loreto V stra 8 St. Peter’s Advent Concerts

a upt
traß
P
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Par aße
Kirche er Ha 9 Krampus/Perchten Runs
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Friedhof
Dreif
Bus-
St. Sebastians-
altigk
Terminal-
sität Kirche
Nord
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eum
Ber
Stadt Aussicht
.
faltigkeits-
gstr
se
Ber
as
Kirche 608m
rg
aße
gstr.
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akartplatz
Lin
Ka
Mozart- pu
zi
Wohnhaus ne
rb
Kapuzinerkirche er
kai g
Platzl Kapuzinerkloster
St. Johannes-
Kirche
Steingasse
Staats- Giselak
a i
brücke Robert-
e in gas
Rathaus Rudo s e
lfsk ai Arenbergstraße
Imbergs
Juden traße
gas Mozart- Gise
se Georg Trakl laka
gasse
steg i Unfallkrankenhaus
sse
Alter Gedenkstätte
splatz
a
Markt
Go
Waag-
er G
Brod
ldgasse

n
Haff
n- Residenz- Mozartplatz Rehrl-

Galerie St.
u nd
Platz
Stie b.-
Mozartplatz
f G.
Michael
Se
Rud
Sigm
Salzburg olfs
Residenz- Museum kai
Ign
Residenz platz Neue Universität a z-R
Karolinen- ie de
9 Dom Residenz Basteigasse brücke r-K
Franziskaner- 1 Panorama Pfeife ai
Kirche r
Domplatz Museum
Krotachg e
gas
as s
Kaigasse
Rudolfs-
se
Kirche He
Kapitelplatz Kapitelgasse platz llb
Fra run
hael- nz- n
Erzbischöfliches Hin
eum Kajetaner- Landesgericht ter
Palais Kaiga ho
Stiftskirche s se platz Schanzl lze
gass r-K
tstraße
St. Peter Herrengasse e He a i

llb
Festun asse sse ru
gsg Festungsga nn
er
Haup
Festungs
St. Ehrentraud- Str

StieglKeller Stift a ße
Kirche
Nonnberg ler
nnta e
No ptstraß
bahn
u Jose
Ha
Oskar-Kokos f Pre
chka- is A
Weg llee
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sse
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nns
gga
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N
06_721193-ch02.indd 49 4/21/10 9:53 PM

50
W
hile Salzburg is beautiful at any time of year, it is made
for Christmas. The ancient streets are usually covered with a
soft veneer of snow, the historic buildings are awash with twinkling
lights, the scent of cinnamon and grilling sausages wafts from just
about every street corner, and carols fill the air. New Year is also a
treat (see ‘Entertainment,’ p 117). START: Domplatz, from end of
November to Christmas.
Residenzplatz. www.christkindl-markt.
co.at. Advent–December 26 (incl.
Christmas day) 10am–8pm Mon–
Thurs, 10am–9pm Sun, 9am–9pm
Sat, 9am–8:30pm.
2 ★★ Getreidegasse. Before
you cross the river for the New Town
take a stroll down Salzburg’s historic
main street—always special, it takes
on a different quality at Christmas
with extravagant displays in the
upmarket shop windows and the nar-
row alleyways are a riot of seasonal
gifts and decorations. @ 20 min.
3 ★★ = Mirabellplatz
Christmas Market. With its set-
ting on Mirabell Square in front of
the Mirabell Palace, this market has
its own charms, with plenty of stalls.
Christkindlmarkt, Domplatz.
The Mirabell Gardens are a lovely
place to stroll (particularly if the
1 ★★★ = Salzburg Christ- snow is falling) or stop for a steam-
kindlmarkt. The main Christmas ing hot chocolate and a rich cake
market in Salzburg, and also one of from one of the many stands as sea-
the best in the Alps. The twinkling sonal music from brass ensembles
lights and candles in front of the and choirs fills the air. @ 30 min.
cathedral and the drifting scents of Mirabellplatz. www.weihnachtsmarkt-
roasted almonds, hot chestnuts, salzburg.at. Advent–Christmas Eve,
and mulled wine create a magical 10am–8pm Mon–Wed & Fri, 9am–
ambiance that neither Disney nor 8pm Thurs, 10am–9pm Sat, 10am–
Coca-Cola could hope to match. The 8:30pm Sun; 10am–3pm Christmas
dozens of traditional booths sell Eve.
handicrafts, cakes, and gingerbread
men, aromatic tree ornaments, and
other delicate decorations. There 4 Mirabell Market Stalls. For
are performances by traditional Sal- a quick, atmospheric lunch pop
zburg choirs and children’s school back to the Christmas Market where
groups to add to the allure. The the stalls offer a wealth of choices—
market is opened by the archbishop soft pretzels, veal sausages in
on the first Saturday in Advent (late seeded rolls, gingerbread, and
November) after the blessing of the more. Mirabellplatz. $.
Advent wreaths. @ 1hr. Domplatz/
06_721193-ch02.indd 50 4/21/10 9:53 PM

51

Christmas Doesn’t Come But Once…
Christmas doesn’t come just one day a year in Salzburg, it’s
around for a number of weeks. There are more Christmas markets
than listed here on a regular (and irregular) basis in and around
Salzburg, from the stalls outside the station to the Waldklang,
where the work of dozens of artists vies with DJs, VJs, rock bands,
and choirs at the Waldbad Anif swimming lake on the city’s out-
skirts, to those in outlying villages. There are exquisite mangers on
display in churches, advent concerts in churches and in the streets,
and music and decorations everywhere. The most comprehensive
and up-to-the-minute information is found on the official Salzburg
website, www.salzburg.info, from sometime in November.
5 ★★ Barockmuseum Christ- about 20 min) out to Hellbrunn Pal-

mas Market. Now this is a nice one, ace for this exceptional event in a
the passion and pomp of the baroque magical setting. The palace’s roman-
way of life transformed into Christmas tic courtyard (which is free to enter)
trinkets and presents with an artiness and a giant Advent calendar form a
and style not seen elsewhere. The backdrop to the usual food and fun.
setting outside the museum in the A real reindeer pulls sleigh rides,
Mirabell Gardens is special too, even there are real livestock such as
though the gardens are less showy at sheep and goats, and plenty of
this time of year. @ 30 min. Mirabell entertainment, plus Hellbrunn’s usual
Gardens. From early Dec. Museum delights. @ 30 min. www.hellbrunner
hours. See p 43, 0. adventzauber.at. Advent to Christ-
mas Eve Wed–Fri 1–8pm, Sat–Sun
6 ★★★ = Hellbrunner
10am–8pm; Christmas Eve 10am–
Adventzauber. It’s worth taking
2pm. See p 19, 1.
the bus (no. 25, from Mirabellplatz,
Mirabell Gardens in winter.
06_721193-ch02.indd 51 4/21/10 9:53 PM

52
Hellbrunn Adventzauber.
7 ★★ = Hohensalzburg entertainment. Children get to make

Christmas Market. Back in town, their own fun—apple-men, straw
and it’s time to head high above the stars, ice flowers, angels, gift tags,
rooftops to the courtyard of the and much more. @ 1 hr. Hohensalz-
Hohensalzburg Fortress. This is burg. www.salzburg-burgen.at. See
Christmas sightseeing at its finest, p 9, 1, normal admission charges
especially when the city’s lights apply. Weekends from Advent until
really start to sparkle in the late Christmas, times vary.
afternoon. Plenty of stalls selling
8 ★★ St. Peter’s Advent Con-
decorations and culinary delights
certs. The vaulted Romanesque Hall
combine with brass bands, choirs,
of St. Peter’s Abbey, a short walk
and dancers to create all-round
’Twas The Night Before Christmas

The many traditions of Christmas in Salzburg come to a head on
Christmas Eve, at which point it is time to take a short break from
the fun and remember the importance of the time in a beautiful
fashion that is only possible in this city. Each year there is the noon
Christmas and Christ Child salute, followed by the 2pm Christ-
mas service in St. George’s Chapel at the Hohensalzburg Fortress.
It’s unlikely that you’ll manage to get in to this, as it gets packed,
but you can stay on high and enjoy the 5:30pm open-air Christ-
mas brass concert from the Mönchsberg. Later in the evening
there is a Christmas Mass at the Franciscan Church, with the day
culminating in a Midnight Mass at the cathedral.
After a pleasantly sedate few days things come alive on New
Year’s Eve when there is a late-afternoon gun salute from the
Mönchsberg, with end-of-year services at St. Peter’s and the
cathedral.
06_721193-ch02.indd 52 4/21/10 9:53 PM

53

Magic of the Markets
Christmas markets make a holiday in themselves—and many
people come here for several days just to experience them. They
generally run from Advent (the last weekend in November) through
to Christmas Eve, although some run through to December 26. It’s
a fairy-tale experience, as warming for adults as it is for children.
You’ll find all sorts of presents to buy, from gingerbread treats to
carved Christmas tree decorations, foodie specials to handicrafts.
And you don’t need to search out a place for lunch—food is every-
where, with mulled wine to wash it down as snow drifts from the
sky.
from the bottom of the Mönchsberg, heart of the Old Town. It’s also possi-
is a perfect setting for Advent and ble to have a special dinner (an extra
Christmas songs as well as chamber 26€) at the Goldener Hirsch hotel
music by Mozart. The late-afternoon (p 136) around the corner, although
performance sets you up nicely for a you’ll also find many restaurants
stroll among the stalls of a Christmas offering a celebration menu. @ 11⁄2
market in the evening air. @ 11⁄2 hr. hr (not incl. dinner). Gothic Hall,
St. Peter’s Abbey. y 0662/823788. Gstättengasse. y 0662/436870.
www.nachmittagskonzerte.at. Admis- www.adventserenaden.at. Admission
sion 22€ adults, 15€ children 17 and 26–33€ adults, 10€ children 9 and
under, free 5 and under. Daily at 4pm under. From late Nov varied days at
from late Nov. 7:30pm & 4pm Sat.
9 Krampus/Perchten Runs. Christmas cherubs.
Grim-looking demons dash about
protecting the populace from evil
spirits in this Pagan tradition. The
characters in hideous wooden
masks run through the city, flailing
with rods and cows’ tails—anyone
hit is said to be blessed. Runs, which
are a riot of laughter and fancy-
dress, take place regularly (but at no
specific time) from late November in
late afternoon/early evening and
often involve the Christkindlmarkt.
@ 30 min. www.salzburg.info. Late
Nov late afternoon/early evening.
0 ★★ Salzburg Advent Sere-
nades. A combination of seasonal
and other folk and classical music,
and poetry by candlelight in the
evocative setting of the Gothic Hall at
St. Blasius Church in the romantic
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54
Salzburg with Kids
St. Maria- Adolf-
1 Zoo Salzburg raße
Schwa
Kirche rgst f-Straße Kolping-
hgässchen ose
rspe Salzburg z-J
Rain
S2
alzacHellbrunn Trick Fountains Fran
Aue Platz
Elisabe
rzstra
er-S
eng Kurhaus Congress Natio
Bä r ä
3 Hellbrunn
Fran
Hay
Cafe se
traß
-Gas Ba
ssc
ße
hkai
tler
dns
z-Jos at
hen
e
4 Museum of Natural History Paracelsus ert-S
Fab
traß
Hub
ef-K
e
ass
erst
5 Toy Museum eng
e
Kurpark g
ai
r-We ran
n
raße
rtne St. Andrä- Sch
6 Mirabell Gardens mga
a r d-Pau Kirche sse
Bernh nga
Schloss nne tra
Müllner Mirabell- Schra n-S
Augustiner- Kirche Müllner Mirabell dro
-Lo
Mül
platz is Lor
kloster Mülln Steg 6 Par
lner
is- Kirc
Par aße
Fran
Mirabell- -Str
Hau
Evangelische d ron St. Seb

garten
pts
z-Jo
Kirche Lo
Frie
traß
se f
Barockmuseum
Dreif
Bus-
-Ka
e
St. Sebastian
i
altigk
Terminal-
Universität Kirc
Mozarteum Nord
eitsg
Mozarteum
Elis
Ber
.
ab
Dreifaltigkeits-
gstr
se
Marionetten-
Ber
e
as
thk
i Kirche
rg
Theater
aße
Sa
gstr.
a
ze
lza Makartplatz
Lin
ch LandestheaterS
Ka
Ursulinen- ch
ipr
platz wa
om
M na r zs
e
ö de tra Mozart-
n Markuskirche ße
c Wohnhaus
h Fra Elis
nz- ab
Jos Anlegestelle eth
Gstä
Makart-
s
ef-K Altstadt ka
4 i
b
ai steg
tten
Platzl
e
St. Johannes-
rg
Haus der
g.
Natur Kirche
Mönchsberg St
Griesgasse a i
Salzburg Mönchsberg Hanusch- brücke
Mün
Griesgas
stä Platz se
G
tt e
zg.
ng Rathaus Rudo
. Bürger- lfsk
Blasius- ai
Mozarts gas
se G
Herbert-von- Geburtshaus
gasse
sse
Alter Ge
Karajan- Universitätsplatz
a
Markt
Go
Waag-
er G
Brod
ldgasse
Museum 5
platz
n
Haff
Kollegien- Residenz-
Ho
St.
u nd
fst
Kirche Galerie Michael

all
Reichenhaller Straße Bürgerwehr r

sto
ga
Sigm
Max-
ss
nd Festspielhäuser
e
mu Reinhardt- Residenz
Sig Platz Residenz platz
straße
Franziskaner- Dom-
platz Rupertinum
Neutorstraße Dom
Untersberg-
Kapitelplatz
Johann-Michael-
Haydn-Museum
Ra Joh-Wolf-Straße
inb
thstraße
erg Stiftskirche
s tra Karolinenhöhe
ße St. Peter
508m Festun
reu
Steinbruchstraße
ckl
Festungs
St
Bu
Information
Police Station
bahn
Oskar-Kokos
Post Office M chka-
erg
ö Weg
n
Am Rainb
ch H
Hospital sb
ans
er
-Sedlmayr-Weg
g
0 1/8 mi
0 0.125 km
06_721193-ch02.indd 54 4/21/10 9:53 PM

55
Salzburg with Kids

Hellbrunn
ße
Adolf-
tra
f-Straße Kolping-
ose
ers
Platz weg
sten
am
National- Fürstenweg Für
lzh
Hay
se Bank Ste
-Gas
Morzg
tler
dns
at
ert-S 2
Fab
traß
er
sse Sound of Music
nga
erst
Straße
Fra
ra nne 3 Pavillion
raße
Sch
nz-
Andrä-
Wo
Jos
Kirche sse
lf-
ng a ße
ef-S
stra
Die
nne ße Schloss
- Schra Stra
tra
tric
on- ler- Hellbrunn

ße
odr ha Schloss-
iert
h -S
a ris-L Loreto V
traß
P park
is- Kirche
Par aße
e
-Str
o dron St. Sebastians-
L
Friedhof
Dreif
Bus- He
He
St. Sebastians- llb

altigk
Terminal-
llb
Kirche ru
r un
sität Nord nn
ne
eitsg
eum Volkskundemuseum e
rst
Ber
ra
.
ße
r
faltigkeits-
gstr
se
Ber
Be
1
as
Kirche 0 1/8 mi
rg
aße
gstr.
rg
ze
akartplatz Salzburger
Lin
0 0.125 km Tiergarten
Mozart-
Wohnhaus
Kapuzinerkirche Kap
kai uzin
Kapuzinerkloster erberg
Platzl
St. Johannes-
Kirche
Steingasse
Staats- Giselak
a i
brücke Robert-
e in gas
Rathaus Rudo s e
lfsk ai Arenbergstraße
Imbergs
Juden traße
gas Mozart- Gise
se Georg Trakl laka
gasse
steg i Unfallkrankenhaus
sse
Alter Gedenkstätte
splatz
a
Markt
Go
Waag-
er G
Brod
ldgasse

n
Haff
n- Residenz- St. Mozartplatz Rehrl-

u nd
Galerie Platz
Stie b.-
Michael Mozartplatz
f G.
Se
Rud
Sigm
Salzburg olfs
Residenz- Museum kai
Ign
Residenz platz Neue Universität a z-R
Karolinen- ie de
Franziskaner- Dom- Panorama Pfeife ai
Kirche platz r
Museum
Krotachg e
gas
as s
Kaigasse
Rudolfs-
se
Kirche He
Kapitelplatz Kapitelgasse platz llb
Fra run
hael- nz- n
Erzbischöfliches Hin
eum Kajetaner- Landesgericht ter
Palais Kaiga ho
s se platz Schanzl lze
aße
Stiftskirche gass r-K

Herrengasse e He a i
St. Peter
Hauptstr
llb
Festun asse sse ru
gsg Festungsga nn
er
Festungs
St. Ehrentraud- Str

StieglKeller Stift a ße
Kirche
Nonnberg ler
nnta e
No ptstraß
bahn
u Jose
Ha
Oskar-Kokos f Pre
chka- is A
Weg llee
St. Erhard-
e
traß
sse
H Kirche Erhard-
en
Union-
nns
gga
ans
Festung
ssch
platz Sportanlage
b ru
traß
ber
-Sedlmayr-Weg
Hohensalzburg
rdgä
nn
ers
pts
No
Pet
au
Bus-
Erha
rH
al e Terminal-
nt
on Süd
N
06_721193-ch02.indd 55 4/21/10 9:53 PM

56
S
alzburg might be a place of culture but it’s also a place for
family fun and the perfect city to introduce your children to city
breaks, being small and walkable with safe, traffic-free streets.
There’s a river, bridges, hills, and castles. Youngsters can appreciate
the Mozart heritage while other attractions are made especially for
them. START: Bus no. 25 from Mirabellplatz to Hellbrunn.
1 ★★ = Zoo Salzburg. A like- see them), my children believed they

able and relaxedly small zoo that would only see a few jets of water,
has been an animal park since 1619, but by the time they’d been round
when Archbishop Marcus Sittikus they were soaked and laughing. As
had it created along with the adjoin- you walk through grotto-like gardens,
ing gardens and Hellbrunn Palace. water spurts from statues, chairs,
The animals live in natural enclo- crevasses, and even regular foun-
sures among the trees on the gentle tains, all dating from the early 17th
slopes of a small mountain. Children century. Everyone joins in the fun,
love the wild feel of the place, which with the guide/operator delighting in
manages to feature more than 400 catching youngsters (and adults)
animals from lions, cheetahs, white unawares. Best on a very hot day
rhinos, and monkeys to marmots when everyone can dry off on the
and wolves. @ 1 hr. Anifer Lan- bus back to town. The ticket includes
desstrasse 1. y 0662/8201760. entry to the palace but it’s not some-
www.salzburg-zoo.at. Admission 9€ thing you really need to bother with.
adults, 4€ children 4–14, 7€ stu- Instead take them into the sweeping
dents. Combined zoo & Hellbrunn grounds where there’s a great adven-
Palace ticket. See below. Daily 9am– ture playground, lots of logs and
4pm; later in summer. Bus: 25. swings—and you can laze on the
lawns. @ 40 min. Best on a very hot
2 ★★★ = Hellbrunn Trick
day when everyone can dry off on the
Fountains. Before lining up for the
bus back to town. See p 19, 1.
tour (the only way you can get in to
Hellbrunn’s trick fountains.
06_721193-ch02.indd 56 4/21/10 9:53 PM

57
Salzburg with Kids

with shaded seats and tables, and
sells ice cream, sandwiches, potato
chips, drinks, and cakes. Hellbrunn
Palace courtyard. No phone. $.
4 ★★★ = Museum of Natu-

ral History. This already-impres-
sive museum (signposted Haus der
Natur) underwent a rebirth in sum-
mer 2009 with sweeping new front-
age and exhibition halls. It’s not
what you’d expect of a natural
history museum in the mountains,
with its large aquarium, space hall
(including a moon landing re-cre-
ation), and animatronic dinosaurs,
plus a cutting-edge, interactive look
at the Salzach river and a homage to
Salzburg physicist Christian (Dop-
pler Effect) Doppler. @ 1 hr. Muse-
The playground next to the Mirabell umsplatz 5. y 0662/8426530. www.
Gardens. salzburg-zoo.at. Admission 6€
adults, 4€ children 4–14 and stu-
dents. Daily 9am–5pm.
3 Hellbrunn Cafe. While there
is a restaurant-like affair at Hellb- 5 Toy Museum. The biggest col-
runn, this glorified snack bar is all lection of European toys in Austria—
you need for a break. It’s in the pal- not that that means much to
ace courtyard, next to the gardens, youngsters, although they will find
Young Explorers
Most museums and galleries provide special facilities for chil-
dren. The Museum der Moderne Salzburg Rupertinum (p 40, 2)
features workshops in English for youngsters called Every Picture
Tells a Story, and there are also special tours of the museum’s sister
facility on the Mönchsberg (p 9, 2). In fact, most places in Salzburg
are great for children, whether it is a stroll across the Mönchsberg,
a wilder walk up the Kapuzinerberg, pottering about by the river,
darting into chocolate shops, looking at the planes in Hangar-7
(p 20, 3), or seeing where Mozart was born (p 24, 1). Cycling is
good and safe by the river.
Salzburg’s attractions are mostly clustered together, connected
by fascinating narrow streets, alleyways, courtyards, squares, and
riverside paths. And most attractions a bit farther afield are acces-
sible on the impressive bus service.
06_721193-ch02.indd 57 4/21/10 9:53 PM

58
Head for the Park & Pool
With the mountains on its doorstep and the Mönchsberg and
Kapuzinerberg as places to walk, Salzburg seems to have never
fully embraced (or needed to embrace) the idea of the park. Best
place for a breath of fresh air and a kick-around is Franz-Josef
Park, on the banks of the Salzach, just out past the Kapuzinerberg
(bus nos. 6, 7, or 20). There’s a lake, gardens, sculptures, and
plenty of grass. In the adjoining Volksgarten is a large open-air
swimming pool (Freibad Volksgarten), mini-golf, and ice rink.
There is also an excellent open-air swimming pool with slides and
stuff as well as mini-golf down by the lake at Leopoldskron (bus no.
25), and another on Alpenstrasse. They all open on May 1 each
year. There are two swimming lakes near the city, the Waldbad in
Anif and the Salzach Lake north of the city. The Paracelsus
indoor pool, adjoining the Mirabell Gardens, is open all year.
something they like amongst the 6 ★★★ = Mirabell Gardens.

dolls, teddy bears, and railways. The gardens themselves offer a per-
Children can join in games and fect space to run around and let off
crafts, and there’s a Punch and Judy energy, with spraying fountains to
show each Tuesday and Wednesday cool off. But there is also a free
(3pm, not summer/Christmas holi- adventure playground on the river-
days). The setting, in an historic hos- side (through a tunnel at the back of
pital on a renaissance square, the hedge-covered walkway) amid
enchants parents and offspring alike. the old city fortifications. This is a
@ 40 min. Bürgerspitalgasse 2. good place to wind down in the
y 0662/620808300. www.salzburg shade of towering trees, especially
museum.at. Admission 3€ adults, 1€ for younger children. There’s an
children 6–15. Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; excellent climbing tower with a big
also Mon July, Aug, Dec. slide and chute as well as all the
usual play equipment. @ 1 hr. See
p 12, 0.
06_721193-ch02.indd 58 4/21/10 9:53 PM

3 The Best
Neighborhood Walks
07_721193-ch03.indd 59 4/21/10 9:53 PM

60
07_721193-ch03.indd 60
The Best Neighborhood Walks
Makartplatz Robert-
Elis
Mozarteum Mozart- kai Rudolfs-
ab
e Sch Jungk-Platz
Fra war Mozart- St. Johannes- Rudolfs platz
nz- thk
a zs steg
Jos finish i traß
e Wohnhaus Kirche Universität se
ef-K
Platzl s
Stief
ai here Marionetten- Georg Trakl igaKajetaner Landesgericht
Information
Seb.-
Landestheater ste
G.
B ärengä
Theater Gedenkstätte Ba Kirche se
ssc Müllner kai Mozartplatz lgas
he
n Steg Evangelische Elisabeth Staats- ai ifergas anz
14 olfsk Pfe se Sch
Müllner Kirche brücke Rud Mozartplatz Kajetaner- St.
Müllner se Waag- K
Makart- Rathaus de n g as platz platz Ehrentraud-
rot
Ju
B
Kirche 12 Hau .
p Fran Salzburg Museum Kirche
r
Salzach Anlegestelle steg Go
o
tstr z-Jo esg
ach
a ße s Gri Alter eSt.
ldg
g.
.
ef-Ka
i Altstadt Neue Residenz
dg.
Ferdinand- Markt Michael ass
Kaipromenade Hanusch- Residenzplatz Kaig
Residenz- Panorama Museum
Sigm
f- K ai
.
s e Platz Mozarts Dom 2
un
Markuskirche Franz-Jo Galerie Erzbischöfliches
elg
13 11 Ursulinen- Geburtshaus Stift
pit
se
sse Nonnberg St.
d Ha
Ka
Haus der Palais as
Augustiner- platz sga e Universitätsplatz Residenz n g
ss
Previous page: Mönchsberg view.

G Natur ie Dommuseum Erhard-
Erh
Gr ga Domplatz rre sg.
ffner
kloster Mülln 10 stätte ide Kapitelplatz He ung Kirche
ard
ng. Mönchsberg tre Franziskaner- t

es
Gass
Ge Universität Kollegien- F
e
gäss
Aufzug Bürger- Kirche start

Nonnb
1 Festungsbahn Kirche here StieglKeller

platz Herbert-von-
chen
8 Blasius- Karajan- Fe
2 Nonnberg Benedictine Convent 9 Hof stallgasse Museum der stu
Kirche Platz Stiftskirche
erggasse
ng
3 Hohensalzburg Fortress Museum der Moderne Salzburg St. Peter sb 3
Spielzeug 1 ah
The Mönchsberg
n Festung
nntaler Hauptstraße
Moderne Rupertinum Johann-Michael-
M
Museum
Nonn
4 Mönchsberg Path Festspielhäuser Haydn-Museum Hohensalzburg
ön
tor
g
ch
e
5 Richterhöhe We
ss
sb
ka-
ga
6 Mönchsberg Path continues er 7 sch

g a us
Bürgerwehr - K oko Hans
Dr-
-
Sigmunds
nh
S
kar
Lu
s un
ed
7 Bürgerwehr 4 O Br
dw
lm
ig
ay
Karolinenhöhe
r-
-Pr
8 Museum der Moderne
äh
Hildmann-
We
508m
g
au
Information
s
9 Restaurant M32 platz
er
ße
erg
Bu
-W
tra
ck
Police Station
eg
10 Mönchsberg Path continues rS
sb
lle
lre
Un
ha
h
ter
en 6
Ern
s
Post Office
uths
11 Schloss Mönchstein ich
st-
be
nc
Re
rg
So
e
ö
-
m
raß
traße
p
M
12 Müllner Kirche
Fü
rst e
ek
0 1/8 mi
rst
str
uto raß
-St
e
en
-St tr.
aß
13 Augustiner Bräu N
e
hs
br
olf
raß
uc e
-W r
un
h 0 0.125 km
ns
14 Riverbank Jo inb 5
tr.
Ste Richterhöhe 507m
4/21/10 9:53 PM
61
The Mönchsberg
he Mönchsberg is the rocky ridge crowned by the Hohen-
salzburg Fortress, running almost 1.25km (0.8 miles) the
length of the Old Town and reaching 499m (1,640 ft.). It’s the prod-
uct of glacial movement, an island of stuck-together rubble (material
used to front many a building in olden times). Now it’s a haven from
the crowds and perfect for a relaxed walk. START: Salzburg Cathedral.
TIME: 21⁄2–3 hr, longer if you stop for lunch.
1 Festungsbahn. Across Kapi- 3 Hohensalzburg Fortress.

telplatz from the cathedral, the Obviously a place to visit, but not
bright red funicular beckons. How- during a full exploration of the
ever, instead take a photograph of it Mönchsberg. If you haven’t done it
climbing up the almost-sheer cliff, already (and it should be top of
and head past the entrance, con- your list), save it for later. Instead of
tinuing along (and up) Festungs- turning left into the gateway, mar-
gasse. You can take some steep vel at the city views and carry on
steps directly upward, but the nar- along the footpath that runs under
row street offers a seductive, the Festungsbahn. @ 10 min or
changing view across the city as you longer if you want to explore. See
rise before turning a sharp right p 9, 1.
onto the path that hugs the rock.
4 Mönchsberg Path. From the
@ 15 min. Festungsgasse 4. forbidding fortress surrounds,
2 Nonnberg Benedictine you’re suddenly in the sun-dappled
Convent. Before turning right, trees. There are views to the left
take a quick detour straight along (south) to the mountains, and
the road. Just as you round the there’s a small hut selling coffees
bend at the very tip of the Mönchs- and soft drinks. You can turn right
berg, you’ll find the Nonnberg, the for a swift descent to the Old Town,
abbey from The Sound of Music, fac- left for the valley floor, or take one
ing south over the mountains. Turn of several wooded paths across the
back and head up toward the for- summit. @ 15 min.
tress. See p 32, 1.
A winter view from the far end of the Mönchsberg.
07_721193-ch03.indd 61 4/21/10 9:53 PM

62
free. Follow the path curving behind
the fortifications. If you fancy a lon-
ger walk, you can take a left and
stick to the western ridge that takes
you out and past the Johannes-
schlossl, another old lookout point,
or branch off through the wooded
area. It’s equally tempting to carry
straight on toward the Museum der
Moderne (Museum of Modern Art).
@ 30 min.
8 Museum der Moderne. You
emerge from the ancient forest and,
on the city side, find this starkly
modern building, yet the startling
The Festungsbahn on its near-vertical
climb up the Mönchsberg.
simplicity somehow fits into the
serenity of the lofty setting. There’s
5 Richterhöhe. Off and up to modern sculpture outside (not least
Henry Moore’s 1960s’ work Locking
the left are the ruins of this castle-
Piece) and generally something
like lookout post that gave early
interesting to see inside with regu-
warning of anyone approaching
larly changing exhibitions. But this is
from the south. The trees have
the time to sample its other attrac-
thinned and walkers take the oppor-
tion—the cafe and restaurant, M32.
tunity to sit in the sun on one of a
Should you want to curtail your tour
number of benches that face the
you can jump into the Mönchsberg
mountains.
Elevator, which takes you straight
6 Mönchsberg Path contin- down through the mountain to the
ues. Past the Richterhöhe the main city streets below. @ 20 min. See
path veers around and follows the p 40, 1.
western ridge, giving views over the
Rainberg—another, smaller rock Path leading to the Hohensalzburg
outcrop—and across to the airport Fortress.
and the mountains beyond. The
path continues over the narrowest
part of the ridge, under which the
road runs into the Old Town.
7 Bürgerwehr. These fortifica-
tions are part of the ancient city
walls. They date from the 13th cen-
tury, before artillery, and were built
with small stones. The building, with
its huge walls and five towers,
became obsolete when explosives
started to be used, as the small
stones used in the construction did
not stand up to cannon fire. Infor-
mation boards tell the tale and show
where further walls were. There are
enchanting views over to both sides
and you can walk on the ruins for
07_721193-ch03.indd 62 4/21/10 9:53 PM

63
The Mönchsberg
The Hohensalzburg Fortress.
come across this church—unimpos-

9 Restaurant M32. Stop at the ing on the outside, splendid within.
museum’s cafe and restaurant, with The Gothic-turned-baroque interior is
city views from the ceiling-high win- home to a red marble altar and a late
dows. It may be you’re tempted by medieval masterpiece—a statue of
a posh lunch, but I’d recommend the Madonna with Child from 1460.
grabbing a coffee and cake and
relaxing on the large terrace. Aside
@ 15 min. Augustinergasse 4.
y 0662/432671. www.kirchen.net.
from the views, this is a place to
people watch—the tourists, hikers,
and arty types all coming together. # Augustiner Bräu. Opposite the
Mönchsberg 32. y 0662/841000. Müllner Kirche, as you head down at
Closed Mon. the end of the Mönchsberg, you find
this stone building where monks
were brewing beer back in 1621, and
0 Mönchsberg Path contin- where the Bräustübl Tavern is one of
ues. The path now starts to mean- Salzburg’s leading beer halls with its
der gently downward with a fantastic shady beer garden. This is a great
viewpoint over the river and city. You place to finish the walk with a late
are still among the trees, including afternoon beer and something to
many beech and rowan (which are as nibble from the food hall, which has
pretty when bare during the winter kiosks selling sausages, smoked fish,
as during the summer) but there’s a and much more. Augustinergasse 4.
feeling of approaching civilization. y 0662/431246. www.augustiner
! Schloss Mönchstein. Voted bier.at. $.
the best five-star hotel in Austria,
this fairy-tale castle looming over
$ Riverbank. Having wound your
the city is worth popping in for a
way down, you’re just a wide stone
look, and is another option for a
staircase away from the river and a
sophisticated lunch. Even if you’re
few minutes’ walk from the heart of
not stopping, poke your head inside
the city. If you’ve stumbled from the
the door for a peek. See p 139.
Augustiner Bräu, pay attention to
@ Müllner Kirche. Just as you’re the bikes racing along as you
winding your way downward, you emerge onto the river path.
07_721193-ch03.indd 63 4/21/10 9:53 PM

64
07_721193-ch03.indd 64
National-
Bay
Vir
1 Staatsbrücke e Bank tr. 0 1/8 mi
gil
Au
ass n-S
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eng
ga
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2 The arch ran is -Lo
sse
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Sch Par
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0 0.125 km
Fra
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3 Passion Path
aß
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aße
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4 Felix Gate rstr
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lf-D
-Str
aße Vie Franziski-
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-Str e
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5 Kanzel on schlössl
tric
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is-L pts
h-S
6 St. John’s Church Par er Hau Kapuzinerberg 10
Loreto oos
traß
se 636m
e
Kirche allm gas
7 Capuchin Monastery Sch ken Bayerische Aussicht
Gloc 573m
8 Zweig Villa
St. Sebastians- 11
9 City wall Friedhof
10 Franziskischlössl St. Sebastians-
Kirche
11 The path down
12 Hotel Stein Stadt Aussicht
608m
Dreifaltigkeits-
se
Pr i e
Berg
as
Landestheater Kirche
rg
ster
g
h
ze
Makartplatz
straß
rber
e
The Kapuzinerberg
Lin
aus
4 Kapuzine
gas
Dreif
se
altig
Mozart- 2
keit
Wohnhaus 3 9
sga
Sc
hw St. 8
sse
ar Johannes-
Elis zs
abe tra
thk
ai
ße 6 Kirche
Platzl 5 7 Kapuzinerkloster
Gis
start ela
ka i
Museum
here 1 12 Steing
Staats- asse Theater
Ferdinand- brücke
Hanusch-Platz
finish Robert-
Imb
erg Post Office
stra
Rathaus here Jungk-Platz ße
4/21/10 9:53 PM
65
The Kapuzinerberg
he small mountain, at 635m (2,086 ft.), is Salzburg’s high-
est point on the New Town side. It’s steep with upward and
downward hiking trails, steps through dense beech trees, and
exceptional views. It’s most beautiful in late afternoon when the sun
starts dropping over the Old Town and the golden rays flicker
through the branches. START: Staatsbrücke bridge. TIME: 2 hr.
1 Staatsbrücke. Stand on the Cross, built by various Salzburg art-

bridge and gaze up at the wild ists between 1736 and 1744. The
Kapuzinerberg, which rises up from graphic scenes and figures in the lit-
the very back of the shops and res- tle Passion Chapel document
taurants on car-free Linzergasse. Christ’s Passion, culminating in a
Walk up Linzergasse and the immen- powerful crucifixion scene on the
sity of this huge rock becomes more mound. The path follows parts of
and more apparent. It’s only a short the old city walls and has views over
walk (passing the Restaurant Was- the plains to the north before a hair-
serfall, (p 106), which incorporates a pin turn back toward the river.
small, real Kapuzinerberg waterfall 4 Felix Gate. Commissioned by
in its interior) until you find an arch
Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron in
which leads to the mountain.
1632, the huge stone gateway in
2 The arch. Not notable in itself the city walls frames the city in a
but interesting as it is a cut between perfect view.
two buildings, so discreet you could 5 Kanzel. ‘The pulpit’ is a magnifi-
walk past without noticing. Peer
cent viewpoint on the mountain’s
through, under the dark upper
edge with benches where you can
floors that form the arch, and you
sit for hours looking over the Old
just get the idea there might be a
Town (and over to Bavaria), and
path. Linzergasse 14.
along the river in either direction.
asse
3 Passion Path. The path is so- It’s a place of calm, and a meeting
ße
stra
Steing
called because, after walking place for hikers, dog walkers, and
erg
tourists. At this point, another path

Imb
through the archway under the his-

toric buildings, you find yourself takes you down to Steingasse via
Jungk-Platz
Robert-
passing six baroque Stations of the the Imbergstiege stairs.
Kapuzinerberg view.
finish
here
ka i
ela
Gis
brücke
Staats-
Rathaus
start
here
Hanusch-Platz
Ferdinand-
07_721193-ch03.indd 65 4/21/10 9:53 PM

66
simple but imposing Capuchin Mon-
astery and its classic church, the
Kapuzinerkirche, which give their
name to the mountain, loom over
the river beneath a towering cross.
The abbey’s inner portal frames an
exquisite late-Gothic oak door,
believed to have come from the
original Salzburg cathedral. The
main altar dates from the early 18th
century, and the central altar paint-
ing, depicting the Adoration of the
Magi by the Shepherds, was painted
in 1602. The interior of the church,
mostly from the 17th and 18th cen-
turies, is simple in accordance with
the rules of the order and provides
Even on a winter’s afternoon the Kapuz- a haven for meditation, a far cry
inerberg is a lovely place to stroll. from World War II when the monks
were evicted by the Nazis who
6 St. John’s Church (Johan- planned (but failed) to turn it into an
niskirche). Follow this path for a imposing HQ. Kapuzinerberg 6.
short way and you soon find the y 0662/8735630. www.kapuziner.
pretty, pink little St. John’s Church at/nordtirol/sbg/kloster_sbg.html.
that dates back to at least 1319, but Free admission. Mon–Sat 6am–6pm
which received a drastic makeover (8pm summer), Sun 8am–6pm (8pm
in 1681 thanks to Prince Archbishop summer). No visits during Mass.
Max Gandolf. The main arch still
8 Zweig Villa. This is a late 17th-
bears his coat of arms. It is said that
century house built onto the old city
young Mozart and his sister Nannerl
walls which is now known as the one-
loved the place and played here,
time home of famed Austrian writer
but the enchanting story is regarded
Stefan Zweig. Zweig was known for
as more fable than fact. Information
his short stories, biographies, and
as Kapuzinerkloster, below.
essays, and in the 1930s was one of
7 Capuchin Monastery the world’s most translated writers.
(Kapuzinerkloster). Dating back Zweig bought the villa in 1919 and
to the end of the 16th century, the stayed there until he emigrated to
Up & Over
The Kapuzinerberg is darker and somehow more remote than
the Mönchsberg. And whereas the Mönchsberg is mostly easy-
going walking on the summit, this involves steepish paths or climb-
ing through the trees, perhaps glimpsing the odd chamois and deer
(the badgers and martins are harder to spot). The most direct route
to the top, called the Stefan-Zweig-Weg, is about 1.6km (1 mile), but
take some of the routes that zigzag across it and the distance can
easily double.
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67
The Kapuzinerberg
Beneath These Walls
The oldest parts of the city walls on the Kapuzinerberg date
back to the 13th century. The ruins of the medieval Trompeterschlössl
Castle were the base for the Kapuzinerkloster, and walls extended
down the mountain to the Steingasse. On the other side, they crept
down to a house at 12 Linzergasse, next to the footpath, which is long
gone. The walls appeared impregnable but failed to fully protect the
city during the Thirty Years War, at which point Prince Archbishop
Paris Lodron made the decision to include all of the Kapuzinerberg
into Salzburg’s fortifications. Between 1629 and 1632, work went on
to heavily fortify the southern side while the northern side was natu-
rally protected by its steep rock walls and cliffs.
England in 1934. Pacifist Zweig slope, following the forbidding con-

became a British citizen in 1938 but tours of the terrain. There are vari-
committed suicide in Argentina in ous paths over the Kapuzinerberg,
1942 when he thought the world was some easy and some barely discern-
falling to Nazi rule. There is a bust of ible amongst the trees. If you take
Zweig next to the abbey but the the lowest, most southerly track,
house is privately owned and is not you not only get intriguing views
open to the public. Kapuzinerberg 5. along the river but eventually find
yourself climbing steep steps cut
9 City wall. The ancient wall
into the mountain in the shadow of
goes all the way from the Felix Gate,
the wall (with barred windows and
encompassing the Kapuzinerkloster,
occasional small towers) until it
and runs along the entire western,
emerges beneath Franziskischlössl.
southern, and eastern mountain
The Franziskischlössl on a cold winter’s day.
07_721193-ch03.indd 67 4/21/10 9:53 PM

68
down to Linzergasse, keep to the
0 Franziskischlössl. Designed in left. The path curves around the
1629 by Salzburg Cathedral architect Kanzel, heads down the stone
Santino Solari, this heavily fortified Imbergstiege steps and through
watchtower at the northern end of the Steintor (an ancient city gate)
the wall has views of the city and the and finishes on Steingasse, the little
flatlands. With its white-painted walls medieval street that manages to
it looks like a mini Hohensalzburg For- squeeze its way along between the
tress. A tavern opened in 1849 and it rock and the busy Giselakai river-
is still a place for daytime drinks and front road. Walk along the road,
snacks. Cozy up under low, white, with the mountain on your left, for a
vaulted ceilings or sit on the terrace short distance to get a feel for the
with sausages, strudel, beer, and treelined slopes, and for the Kapuz-
other Austrian fare—for which you’ll inerkloster high above you, before
have worked up an appetite as the taking one of the side streets across
only way here is on foot. Kapuziner- to Giselakai and doubling back to
berg 9. y 0662/87295. www.
the Hotel Stein.
franziskischloessl.com. $.
! The path down. This is quite

@ Hotel Stein. Finish your walk
on the Steinterrasse,the cafe-bar,
gorgeous, if only because you’re on the roof of this smart hotel. It’s
facing the Old Town the whole way. known for its views across the river,
It’s easy enough to vary your route, but turn around and you can appre-
but the main path is simplest and ciate where you’ve just come from.
gives you most chance to soak up Giselakai 3–5. y 0662/8743460.
the views. Pass through the Felix www.hotelstein.at. $$.
Gate but instead of heading back
Kapuzinerberg from the Mönchsberg.
07_721193-ch03.indd 68 4/21/10 9:53 PM

4 The Best Shopping
08_721193-ch04.indd 69 4/21/10 9:54 PM

70
The Best Shopping
Shopping Best Bets
Best Leather Goods
Jann-Markl, Residenzplatz 3 (p 77)
Tackiest Souvenirs
Zum Mozart, Mozartplatz 5 (p 77)
Poshest Keepsakes
Lobmeyr, Schwarzstrasse 20 (p 73)
Best Gourmet Food
★★★ RF Azwanger, Getreidegasse 15
(p 75)
Best Chocolate Delight

★★★ Cafe Konditorei Fürst, Alter
Markt, Brodgasse 13 (p 75)
Best for Fresh Produce

★★★ Green Market, Universität-
splatz (p 77)
Best Classical Records

★★ Salzburg Festival Shop,
Hofstallgasse 1 (p 78)
Best Men’s Shirts

The crowds gather to window shop on
★★ Hemden Babitsch, Wold-
Getreidegasse.
Dietrich-Strasse 15 (p 74)
Best Hip Menswear Best Handicrafts

★★ Wanger, Getreidegasse 2 ★★ Salzburger Heimatwerk,
(p 75) Residenzplatz 9 (p 76)
Best Designer Womenswear Chicest Jewelry

Betty Barclay, Judengasse 9 (p 74) ★★ Atelier 4, Münzgasse 1 (p 77)
Shopping Hours
Most shops are open 10am to 6pm Monday to Friday and 10am
to 5pm on Saturday. You’ll find some bakers open from 6:30am,
and food shops from around 8am. Some still close for a 1- or 2-hour
lunch break. Many shops, particularly those selling souvenirs, open
on Sunday, although others still observe religious traditions and
stay shut. For information on sales tax and related rebates for non-
E.U. residents, see p 166.
Previous page: Getreidegasse, Salzburg’s main street.
08_721193-ch04.indd 70 4/21/10 9:54 PM

.
Markuskirche Sc
erg
Ka Sa
z
hw Alte f.e. Hofapotheke 21
0 1/8 mi
08_721193-ch04.indd 71
ipr lza ar
Lin
Fra om ch Elis zs
Gstä
en ab tra Kapuzinerkirche Atelier 4 4
nz-
Jos a Makart- eth
kai ße
tten
ef-K de
ai steg 0 0.125 km Augarten Porcelain 17
Kapuzinerkloster
gass
e
Haus der Anlegestelle Kapu Betty Barclay 23
Natur Kirche zinerberg
Altstadt Steingasse Information Billa 6
Mönchsberg Ferdinand- Staats-
3 Giselak
a Police Station
Aufzug Griesga Hanusch-Platz brücke i Cafe Konditorei Fürst 22
sse Robert-
4 Gr
iesgass Jungk-Platz Cobra Couture 12
Mün
Museum der 6 e Post Office
Mozarts
zg.
Moderne Rathaus Rud Designer Outlet Salzburg 1
Geburtshaus 15 olfsk
Salzburg Bürger- 5 14 ai
Mönchsberg platz Getreidegasse 16 Imberg
s traße Europark 2
Juden
8 9 13 g a Mozart- Gise
Blasius- 20 Alter sse Georg Trakl laka Gerhard Swarovski Rosentury 18
steg i
Kirche Herbert-von- Univesritätsplatz
12 17 19 Markt 23 Green Market 10
.
Karajan- 10
Spielzeug Platz Universität 11 18 21 25
er G
Information Hermès 20
Museum Waagplatz
Ho
affn
27 Mozartplatz
fst
Residenz- 22 Jann-Markl 26
H
Kollegien-
Goldgasse
all
sse
ga
Bürgerwehr r Kirche Galerie 24 26 Mozartplatz To
und
Katholnigg House of Music 11
ss
Max-
e
S
sto He
f Ga
28 Salzburg Rud
und Reinhardt- olfs llbr
Sigm
1 Museum un Kirchtag 5
Stie eb.-
Festspielhäuser, 7 Residenzplatz kai
igm Platz
n
S Haus für Mozart Residenz Neue Universität Knopflmayer 14
2
& Felsenreitschule Dom Residenz Basteigasse
Museum der Franziskaner- Domplatz
Panorama Pfeife Madl 9
Hildmann- Moderne Salzburg r
Kirche Museum Max Mara 25
gas
Old Town Shopping
platz Rupertinum Kajetaner
as s
Rudolfs-
se
Dommuseum Kirche Museumshop 3
Stiftskirche Kapitelplatz platz
Kapitelgasse
St. Peter
Kaigasse
Nomination 19
Krotachg e
Johann-Michael-
Erzbischöfliches Kajetanerplatz Landesgericht
Haydn-Museum Kaiga RF Azwanger 8
Palais s se Schan
Katakomben zlga
raße
Karolinenhöhe Herrengasse sse Salzburg Festival Shop 7

Friedhof
hstraße
508m F
t
St. Peter
estungsgasse sse Salzburg Museum 28
Festungsga
reu
Hauptst
StieglKeller Salzburger Heimatwerk 24
ckl
Stift St. Ehrentraud-
Bu
M Schatz Confectionery 13
a
Festungs
n nnt ße
tr.
ch Festung sse No ptstra

u Wanger 15
ga
nns
sb rg Ha
bahn
Oskar-Kokos Hohensalzburg
be
bru
er
g
chka-Weg Wolford 16
nn
Straße
ers
St. Erhard-
No
Zum Mozart 27
Erzabt Klotz
Pet
Kirche
Shopping Best Bets
71
r.
tst
up
Ha
er
tal
nn
No
4/21/10 9:54 PM
72
The Best Shopping
New Town Shopping
Hauptbahnhof
0 1/8 mi S Post Office
Mertensstraße
e
raß
0 0.125 km Train Station
erst
Plainstraße S S-Bahn Station
Ignaz-v.-
Rain
Elisabethstraße
Heffter-Str.
River Cruise
traße
St.-Julien-Straße
1
Hospital
tens
Bahnh
Las
of-
Fr.-Neum- viadu
kt
Parac
Straße
Plainstraße
arzstraße
Ga
elsus
Lessingstr. bels
ber
ger
str.
str
aße
Schw
V.-Kaplan-Str aße
rstr
. -
dinger-St
r. S3 Humbold
ise
Hans-Pro straße
We
Privatklinik
Fab
Wehrle
erst
Haydn-
e Julius-
raße
-Straß Las
-Thun
e
Raab-Platz ser
Ernest
raß
Max-Ott- str
Auerspergstraß aße
sst
Platz e
lsu
e
straße
traß
ace
us-S
ittik
ße
Par
kus-S
Mar
tra
Adolf-
Rain
raße
ers
rgst ße Kolping-
Stra
am
rspe Salzburg sef-
er-S
Platz
Aue
lzh
z-Jo
Schwa
Fran
traß
Ste
sse
Hay
e
r-Ga Bank
rzstra
attle
dns
Paracelsus ert-S Fra

Fab
Hub
traß
ße
nz-
e
Wo
e
Kurpark 2
rstra
g
Jos
r-We
lf-
rtne e
ass
ef-S
Die
mga
ße
g
-Pau St. Andrä- nen
tric
ran
tra
a r d
Bernh Kirche Sch
ße
Schloss
h-S
e
traß
lers
traß
Mirabell
Müllner Mirabell-
aße rtha
Vie
e
Platz -Str Loreto

Steg ron 10
Lod
Elisa
Mirabell- 3 ris- Kirche 11

Pa 9
b
Evangelische garten
eth
St. Sebastians-
k
Kirche Bus-Terminal- Friedhof

ai
Barockmuseum 12
Nord
Dreif
St. Sebastians-
altigk
Universität
Mozarteum Kirche
eitsg
Kirche
Ber
Marionetten-
asse
Prie
gst r
Sa Theater 8
lza Makart-
ster
aße
Landestheater Mozart-
ch pl. rg
Ka
e
hau
Sc Wohnhaus be
ss
ipr
hw er
rga
ar 4
sg.
om
Markus- 7 in
na uz
ze
zs
e
de tra 5 p
Li n
kirche ße Ka
Gstä
Fra Elis
ab 6 Kapuziner-
nz- eth kirche
tten
Jo sef Makart- kai

-Ka steg Kapuzinerkloster
gas
i
se
Haus der Anlegestelle Kirche

Natur Altstadt
Steingasse
Museum der Ferdinand- Staats-
Giselak
Moderne Griesgasse Hanusch-Platz brücke a i
Robert-Jungk-
Platz
Hemden Babitsch 9 Pöstgesichte Weissenbock 10

Johann Nagy & Söhne 8 Schleisselberger House of Leather 6 Mozart-
Kieselpassage 1 Schranne 2 steg
Kolbl Delicatessen 5 Schubert 7

Lobmeyr 4 Spar 11
Organic Farmers’ Market 3 Stiegl Brauwelt 12
08_721193-ch04.indd 72 4/21/10 9:54 PM

73
Salzburg Shopping A to Z
Art & Design the Mönchsberg, is packed with arty
Augarten Porcelain OLD TOWN goods including books, posters, and
The fabled Augarten white porce- posh souvenirs such as coffee sets
lain, made in Vienna since 1718, is and table lamps. Mönchsberg 32.
sold here along with extravagant y 0662/842220401. www.museum
hand-painted designs, much with dermoderne.at. AE, MC, V. Map
gold embellishment. The shop is p 71.
Parac
worth seeing in itself, dating back to

Pöstgesichte Weissenbock
elsus
1325 with an alleyway through the

NEW TOWN A cute shop selling
str.
building and entrances featuring

antique postcards with views of the
Untersberg marble. Alter Markt 11.
city and most other places in Austria,
y 0662/840714. www.augarten.at. starting from around 1.50€, plus lots
AE, MC, V. Map p 71.
Las of artier, rarer works, including Bau-
ser
str
a ße
★ Lobmeyr NEW TOWN The haus designs, which are often sold
Viennese glassmaker was supplying at auction. Wolf Dietrich Strasse 6a.
the Imperial Court as far back as y 0662/8822531. www.wiener-
ße
tra
werkstaette-postkarten.com. MC, V.
ers
1835. This showroom, in a former

am
prison, showcases hand-blown one- Map p 72.

lzh
Ste
of-a-kind pieces, along with less indi-

vidual (but more affordable) items. Designer Home Goods
Fra
nz-
Schwarzstrasse 20. y 0662/873181. ★ Gerhard Swarovski Rosen-

Jos
ef-S
www.lobmeyr.com. AE, MC, V. Bus: tury OLD TOWN Extravagant cre-

tra
3, 5, 6. Map p 72.
ße
tra ße ations are made from real roses—the

lers
rtha ★★ Museumshop OLD TOWN flowers are freeze-dried and turned
Vie
The shop at the Museum of into huge arrangements or delicate
s- Modern Art (Museum der Moderne) sprays. There are also candles and
(p 40, 1), high above the city on other more manageable gifts. Pop in
ns-
Where to Shop
r g
r be
ine
uz Shopping may not be the main reason to come to Salzburg, but
ner- it is a stylish city and, as such, has stylish shops. The Getreide-
gasse might seem to be the tourist heart of the city, yet despite
erkloster
most camera-clutching visitors gazing up at the historic architec-
ture, street level offers a high density of fascinating shops, includ-
ing many upmarket boutiques. In the surrounding streets and
Robert-Jungk-
Platz down the many alleyways that connect them there are many more
places, although most are esoteric and sell things you really don’t
Mozart-
need. For more conventional shopping, you need to head to the
steg rather more ordinary streets near the station, which resemble
many a city center across Europe. And if you really must have inter-
national chain stores, then Europark (p 78) is the answer, on the
edge of town (but easily accessible by bus).
08_721193-ch04.indd 73 4/21/10 9:54 PM

74
The Best Shopping
Cafe Konditorei Fürst.
even if just to sample the heady Hermès OLD TOWN This stylish
scent. Churfürststrasse 4. y 0662/ emporium is packed with Parisian
842037. www.swarovski-rosentury. fashions for men and women
com. AE, MC, V. Map p 71. along with leather goods, jewelry,
watches, blankets, towels, and table
Fashion & Accessories linen. Alter Markt 1. y 0662/
★★ Betty Barclay OLD TOWN 84662126. www.hermes.com. AE,
From casual gear to party frocks, MC, V. Map p 71.
outdoor wear to business suits, this Kirchtag OLD TOWN A century-
is the stylish flagship store of the old umbrella maker, using ebony,
top Austrian label. Judengasse 9. maple, cherry, and other wood
y 0662/840100. www.bettybarclay. along with a wealth of fabrics to cre-
de. AE, MC, V. Map p 71. ate the sort of umbrella for men and
★ Cobra Couture OLD TOWN women that’s hard to resist. There’s
Head here for designer chic, both also a selection of luggage and
classic and modern, from designer leather goods. Getreidegasse 22.
Katharina Kaesbach. Discuss styles y 0662/841310. www.kirchtag.
and fabrics before your choice is com. AE, MC, V. Map p 71.
made up by local seamstresses. Sig- Knopflmayer OLD TOWN A but-
mund Haffner Gasse 14. y 0662/ ton shop, but a button shop that
84014. Also Nonntaler Hauptstrasse has been plying its trade in deter-
18. www.cobra-couture.at. AE, MC, minedly old-school fashion for 250
V. Map p 71. years. Thousands of varieties are all
Hemden Babitsch NEW TOWN neatly stacked in boxes, from
Men’s shirts are handmade from a chunky traditional varieties to great
selection of fine cloth on the prem- ones for children to the stylishly
ises of this smart shop. The small modern. They also sell a few handi-
team of women tailors can add craft materials. Rathausplatz 1.
monograms and do repairs. There is y 0662/842263. MC, V. Map p 71.
also a small selection of ties, polo Madl OLD TOWN You can order
shirts, and other accessories. Wolf- custom-made pieces for men and
Dietrich-Strasse 15. y 0662/883852. women from this exclusive fashion
AE, MC, V. Map p 72. shop. Items are made from local
08_721193-ch04.indd 74 4/21/10 9:54 PM

75
linen, and cashmere or silk from Food Shops
France and Italy. Accessories include ★★★ Cafe Konditorei Fürst
pashminas, scarves, hats, belts, OLD TOWN The home of the first
bags, and purses. Getreidegasse 13. and best Mozart Ball (p 76), made
y 0662/845457. www.madlsalzburg. here since 1890. There are Mozart
at. AE, MC, V. Map p 71. Balls in every conceivable fashion,
from singles to elaborate gift packs.
Max Mara OLD TOWN The famed
Alter Markt, Brodgasse 13. y 0662/
Italian fashion label stocks an exqui-
8437590. Other Fürst branches are in
site collection of womenswear and
Sigmund Haffner Gasse, Getreide-
accessories. Waagplatz 5. y 0662/
gasse (by the Mönchsberg elevator),
843534. www.maxmarafashion
and Mirabellplatz. www.original-
group.com. AE, MC, V. Map p 71.
mozartkugel.com. AE, MC, V. Map
Schubert NEW TOWN Men’s shirts p 71.
from London, Italy, and top labels
★★ Kolbl Delicatessen NEW
elsewhere, plus jumpers, ties, and
TOWN Smart deli featuring well-
posh pajamas. Dreifaltigkeitsgasse 8.
chosen items from across Europe,
y 0662/874411. www.schubert-
particularly Austria and Italy. Lunch,
hemden.com. AE, MC, V. Map p 72.
from roast meat to sandwiches, is
Wanger OLD TOWN Men’s fash- served at standing tables. Theater-
ion emporium featuring Dolce & gasse 2. y 0662/872423. www.
Gabbana, Gucci, and Boss. Getreide- koelbl-feinkost.at. MC, V. Map p 72.
gasse 2. y 0662/840161. www.
★ RF Azwanger OLD TOWN The
wanger.at. AE, MC, V. Map p 71.
ancient wooden shelves in this 1656
Wolford OLD TOWN Salzburg grocery store show its history,
seems to have a lingerie shop in although it now likes to think of itself
every street, but Wolford stands out as a wine and fancy foods emporium.
as an Austrian label with its own col- Posh spirits and champagnes, Aus-
lection. There’s an understated cloth- trian wines, hand-dipped chocs, and
ing range and swimwear. You’ll also an esoteric selection of other wines
find a branch at Europark (p 78). Kran- and vinegars. Getreidegasse 15.
zlmarkt 5. y 0662/875442. www. y 0662/8433940. www.azwanger.
wolford.com. AE, MC, V. Map p 71. at. AE, MC, V. Map p 71.
The Mirabell Mozart Balls are available in many shops and supermarkets.
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76
The Best Shopping
Schatz Confectionery A Salzburg souvenir.
OLD TOWN This tiny choco-
late and cake shop sells spe- books to local beer,
cialties such as chocolate salt, and food. Mozart-
poppy cake and mini platz 1. y 0662/
meringues, and you can sit 620808700. MC, V.
and enjoy them with a Map p 71.
coffee at one of the Salzburger Heimat-
tables. Getreidegasse werk OLD TOWN
3. y 0662/842792. MC, Rustic handicrafts,
V. Map p 71. pewter, ceramics,
handmade Christmas tree
Gifts decorations, and carved
Johann Nagy & Söhne Nativity scenes. Residenz-
NEW TOWN This shop platz 9. y 0662/844110.
opened as a chandler and MC, V. Map p 71.
gingerbread maker in 1879.
Stiegl Brauwelt OUT-
It still sells 40 types of honey
SKIRTS This beer museum, bar,
gingerbread (with seasonal specials
and restaurant has a great gift shop.
from Easter bunnies to Christmas
Clothing such as fleeces is well-
Krampen figures) along with count-
designed if a little bright in the
less varieties of handmade candles.
company’s traditional bright red,
Linzergasse 32. y 0662/882524.
but there are also glasses, jugs,
www.nagy.at. MC, V. Map p 72.
and, of course, bottles of beer.
Salzburg Museum OLD TOWN Bräuhausstrasse 9. y 0662/83871492.
The museum’s impressive shop sells www.brauwelt.at. AE, MC, V. Map
a wide range of intelligent items, p 72.
from the usual pencils, pads, and
Mozart Balls—the Real Story

The true Mozart Ball—Mozartkugel—is a blob of green pistachio
marzipan coated in a layer of nougat then dunked in chocolate. It
was created in 1890 in Salzburg by confectioner Paul Fürst, and
named after the local musical hero. It was handmade then, and still
is, with more than 1.5 million a year produced in the original Alter
Markt premises by Fürst’s great-grandson Norbert and his small
team. Only these can be called Salzburg Mozartkugeln, and they
are only available from here, Fürst’s three other city stores, and its
website (www.original-mozartkugel.com). Other manufacturers
have their own versions; Holzermayr has been making its own fine
version from almost the beginning. The ones you’ll see in most
places are from the Mirabell company, which makes around 90 mil-
lion a year. They’re perfectly fine, but are smaller, glossier, like
chocs from a box, rather than Fürst’s king-size treats, which have a
just-the-one air. You’ll come across various others, all of which lay
claim to some form of originality.
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77
Zum Mozart OLD TOWN Tat and Schleisselberger House of
then some, all in a glorious fun lack Leather NEW TOWN In ‘Tanner
of taste. A great place to browse Street’, this started out as a tannery
among the Hohensalzburg snow- and has been family owned since
globes, Mozart statuettes, and hun- 1422. Leather goods, luggage, and
dreds of T-shirts. Mozartplatz 5. MC, just leather—including bargain off-
V. Map p 71. cuts. Lederergasse 5. y 0662/
873182. www.lederhaus.at. MC, V.
Map p 72.
Grocery Stores
Billa OLD TOWN Salzburg’s most
central grocery store, and hardly Markets
huge, serves its purpose in the midst ★★★ Green Market OLD TOWN
of the tourist streets. There are other The massive daily market spreads out
branches near the main station and from in front of Collegiate Church.
in various suburbs. Griesgasse 19–21. Local fruit, veg, cheese, meat, bread,
www.billa.at. MC, V. Map p 71. and more along with exotic foods,
handicrafts, and plenty of stalls sell-
Spar NEW TOWN I like this place, on
ing sizzling sausages. Universität-
the corner of Linzergasse; it’s handy
splatz. Mon–Fri 7am–7pm, Sat 7am–
for bargain local cheeses, dark breads,
3pm. No credit cards. Map p 71.
and potato chips for a picnic lunch,
plus Austrian wine at several euros a ★★ Organic Farmers’ Market
bottle for a pre-dinner quaff. Franz- NEW TOWN Excellent selection of
Josef Strasse 34. MC, V. Map p 72. local produce straight from farms,
some of which are only a couple of
Jewelry miles away. Mirabellplatz, Thurs
8am–noon; Papagenoplatz, Fri 8am–
Atelier 4 OLD TOWN Modern
noon. No credit cards. Map p 72.
works—rings, necklaces, etc—in gold
and platinum by local designer Birgit ★★ Schranne NEW TOWN A
Radtke, along with other innovative throbbing mass of stalls selling pro-
artists, plus top-quality watches. duce, flowers, and handicrafts.
Münzgasse 1. y 0662/842987. www. There’s a social buzz with food stalls
atelier4.at. AE, MC, V. Map p 71. dishing up bratwurst, bauernkrapfen
Nomination OLD TOWN A shop
Varied produce of the Green Market.
that pays homage to Italian design,
including the trendy composable
bracelet made up of letters and sym-
bols of your choice. Alter Markt 15.
y 0662/841158. www.nomination.
at. MC, V. Map p 71.
Leather Goods
★★ Jann-Markl OLD TOWN
Exclusive leather and suede goods—
gloves, belts, hats—from a tanner
with 600 years of history. Also hand-
woven jackets, socks, and other gear
that was taken up by the English
hunting classes. Residenzplatz 3.
y 0662/842610. www.wildleder
bekleidung.at. AE, MC, V. Map p 71.
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78
The Best Shopping
Linzergasse offers quaint shops in a traffic-free setting.
(doughnuts), buchteln (baked yeast y 0662/841451. www.salzburg

dumplings), gebackene mäuse (frit- festival.at. MC, V. Map p 71.
ters), and pofesen (toast fried in bat-
ter). St. Andrew’s Church. Thurs 5am–
Shopping Malls
1pm. No credit cards. Map p 72.
Designer Outlet Salzburg OUT-
SKIRTS Opened in summer 2009,
Medical this grand and rather stylish-looking
Alte f.e. Hofapotheke OLD indoor mall is designed to look like a
TOWN Salzburg’s first pharmacy is 1920s shopping arcade. Top labels
a museum-like treasure trove of are on offer at bargain prices, there
dark wooden shelves and big glass are cafes and restaurants, and the
bottles alongside the usual supplies. bus calls here on the way to the air-
Alter Markt 6. y 0662/843623. MC, port. Kasernenstrasse 1. y 0662/
V. Map p 71. 854404–14. www.designer-outlet-
salzburg.at. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 2.
Music Map p 71.
Katholnigg House of Music Europark OUTSKIRTS A massive
OLD TOWN Since 1847 this vaulted shopping center by the autobahn
room with stone floors has been a that is supposedly Austria’s most
music shop, switching from pianos successful mall with around 130
in 1922. It now sells CDs and DVDs, stores covering everything from
mostly classical, although drifting fashions to furniture. There’s a Spar
into jazz and folk, plus upmarket superstore, IKEA, H&M, C&A, Levi’s,
wines. Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse 16. and a Salomon ski and sports shop
y 0662/841451. www.salzburg-cd. plus restaurants. Europastrasse 1.
com. AE, MC, V. Map p 71. y 0662/4420210. www.europark.
Salzburg Festival Shop OLD at. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 1, 20, 28;
TOWN A box-office store with a S-bahn: S3. Map p 71.
wide range of CDs, DVDs, books, and Kieselpassage NEW TOWN
photos. Interestingly different are the Small mall opposite the station with
bags and briefcases made in the the- various clothes and jewelry stores
ater workshops from materials used and a couple of cafes. Rainerstrasse
in productions, as well as own-label 21. y 0662/6285100. www.kiesel.
wine. Festspielhaus, Hofstallgasse 1. at. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 72.
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5 The Great
Outdoors
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80
The Great Outdoors
River Salzach by Bike
1 Franz-Josef-Kai
2 River path Mattsee
Straßwalchen
3 Golling Mattsee
4 Torrenerhof Neumarkt
5 Golling Waterfall Obertrum
6 Hallein Wallersee
Irrsee
7 Kaffeehäferl
Seekirchen Henndorf
8 Keltenmuseum Kasten
9 Silent Night Museum
10 Franz-Josef-Kai Eugendorf
Hallwang Mondsee
Bergheim A1
Freilassing E55 E60
1 Plainfeld Thalgau
Mondsee
start & finish
here
20 Fuschlsee
1
Salzburg Airport 2 Ebenau
W.A. Mozart Fuschl
A8 Salzburg Glasenbach
E52 E60 St. Gilgen
Vordersee
Anif Wiestalstausee
Bad Hintersee Zwölferhorn
Reichenhall Oberasch 1521m
Niederalm
Großgmain
7
AUSTRIA
Salzach
10 Hintersee
Marktschellenberg 8 Adnet
O Hoher
20 6 Hallein S
TE Zinken
Winkl 9 RH
Vigaun OR 1764m
NG
RU
Bischofswiesen Berchtesgaden PPE
Kuchl
305
GERMANY 4
3 Golling
3 Pichl
Königssee 5
Watzmann
2713m Oberscheffau
Königssee
Abtenau
NATIONALPARK
BERCHTESGADEN TENNEN
GEBI
RGE
E
Salet Obersee E55

G
IR
Bleikogel
B
G
S N 2412m
TE E A10
IN G Werfen
ER A
NE H
S M 159
EER Bike Route
0 5 mi
Hochkönig
Hinterthal 2940m
0 5 km
Previous page: Bikes for hire.
09_721193-ch05.indd 80 4/21/10 9:54 PM

81

alzburg and bikes would go together like Sachertorte (the
local chocolate and apricot delicacy) and chips, you might think,
the rocky bits and mountains being a hindrance. Yet where it’s flat,
it’s very flat. For a good day out, the River Salzach is unbeatable.
walchen This tour takes you on paved cycle paths south along one bank and
back along the other, for around 65km (40 miles). START: Makartsteg
footbridge.
e
1 Franz-Josef-Kai. Start on the the village of Puch, the path drifts
Kasten riverbank on the Old Town side, as away from the river before heading
this is where you can rent a bike at into Golling.
Top Bike Salzburg for around 15€
3 Golling. A pretty market town
ndsee a day. From here, cross the bridge
on the river, and the farthest point
and turn right, heading south for the
on your tour. The Heimatmuseum
mountain. The path takes you under
Mondsee Burg Golling has a chapel along
the Staatsbrücke bridge and past
with fossils and costumes. Heimat-
see the smart chateau-like houses at the
museum. Marktplatz 1. y 06244/
foot of the Kapuzinerberg, with
Fuschl 4223. www.museumburggolling.at.
wonderful views of the city on the
Admission 5€ adults, 2€ children
St. Gilgen other side of the river. As you leave
6–16. May–Oct Tues–Sun.
the city, you pass by the peaceful
Zwölferhorn Franz-Josef Park then continue
1521m
along the path past treelined sub-
urbs with the river gently flowing
4 Torrenerhof. A pleasingly tra-
ditional hotel across the river in
intersee to your right. Top Bike Salzburg. Golling with a dark, simple restau-
y 0676/4767259. www.topbike.at. rant where you can relax and cool
Hoher
2 River path. Keep going amid down after your ride, which has so
Zinken
1764m the greenery of the countryside, far been around 32km (20 miles).
GR with views of the Untersberg off to Schnitzel, a good choice of salads,
UPP and big, hearty grills if you need—
E the right. The path twice dips under
the A1 Tauern-Autobahn and passes and you probably will. Torren 24,
Hallein, where the river Salzach Golling. y 0624/5522. www.
splits around a natural island. After torrenerhof.com. $–$$.
Pichl
rscheffau Cycling near Salzburg.
btenau
EBIR
GE
kogel
12m
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82
The Great Outdoors
Taking It Easy
The journey to Golling by bike is relatively easy as long(ish)
bike journeys go, but may still be too far for most children. A good
family-friendly alternative would be to start the tour but only go as
far as the river bridge near Hellbrunn, which is about 5km (3 miles).
Once you’re across the river, a country lane takes you onto
treelined Hellbrunner Avenue and along to Hellbrunn Palace, which
is about 1km (just over half a mile). Here you can rest and play for
free in the grounds with their adventure playground, and have a
snack at the cafe or a picnic, before heading back to the riverside
path and returning to the city. The whole journey is only around
12km (7 miles) and is flat all the way, and almost all traffic-free.
5 ★★★ Golling Waterfall. Get 6 Hallein. At about the halfway

onto Wasserfallstrasse and in less stage back to Salzburg, this charm-
than a mile you’ll reach this beauty ing town, sitting on the valley floor
spot (you’ll need a bike lock, as it’s a with mountainous backdrop, is a
20-minute walk from the car park). good place to stop. Maybe have a
The waterfall is the area’s major wander around the streets with the
attraction as it crashes 75m (502 ft.) pretty market square. The town,
down the rock face. Cool down in the with a big student population, is sur-
spray then head back to the river and prisingly lively and a good place for
from here take the bike path along cafes. @ 1 hr.
the left bank, back in the direction of
Salzburg. @ 30 min. Wasserfall-
strasse, Golling. y 06244/4356. 7 Kaffeehäferl. Take a break in
this dark and traditional coffee
www.golling.info. Daily May–Oct.
house. Good, strong drinks, and
Admission 2.50€ adults, 1.50€ chil-
plenty of cakes. Pflegerplatz 2.
dren 14 and under, free 5 and under.
y 06245/783177. $–$$.
Golling Waterfall.
8 ★ Keltenmuseum. A smart,
modern museum telling the story of
local salt mining and the Celtic min-
ers. See p 144, 3.
9 Silent Night Museum. The
home of Franz Xaver Gruber, com-
poser of the music for the Christmas
carol Silent Night. He put to music
the poem of Josef Mohr in the hours
before a service in the nearby vil-
lage of Oberndorf in 1818. There
are signed copies of the music,
along with the guitar with which
Mohr accompanied the premiere.
09_721193-ch05.indd 82 4/21/10 9:54 PM

83

of town to the left and continues in
the shadow of the rocky Little and
Great Barmstein peaks. There are
views across the river to the path
that you came along earlier in the
day, as you continue amid farmland
and through woods. As you’re about
to go under the Tauern-Autobahn
for the second time you cross
Konigseeache, the river which leads
to Konigsee near Berchtesgaden.
Silent Night Museum. The path straightens out and you
head back toward the city—you
@ 15 min. Gruberplatz 1. y 06245/ know you’re just about there when
85394. www.stillenachthallein.at. you pass under the Hellbrunner Lan-
Admission 2€ adults, .70€ children 18 desstrasse bridge (the road leading
and under, 6 and under free. Daily to Hellbrunn Palace). The paths gets
Jan 7–Advent 3–5pm; Advent–Jan 6, busier and the views of the Hohen-
11am–5pm. salzburg Fortress atop the Mönchs-
berg get bigger before you’re
0 ★★ Franz-Josef-Kai. Free-
passing the Old Town on the way to
wheel downhill from the museum to
drop off your bike.
the river where the path heads out
Practical Matters—Salzburg by Bike

Before renting a bike check with your hotel—a number have
bikes for complimentary use, or let you use them for a very reasonable
rate. The city really does go out of its way to make life easy for cyclists:
the city itself is rated the most bike-friendly in Austria, with 160km (100
miles) of paths, including 23 scenic routes, plus (and it’s a proud boast)
more than 900 signs. In addition,
there are 5,500 bike parking
spaces, and self-service stations
with free tools, bike stands, oil, and
compressed air. There’s a garage
for 350 bicycles (including 130
lockable bike boxes) at the Haupt-
bahnhof, the main railway station.
You’ll find contra-flow paths on
dozens of one-way streets and the
riverside paths have underpasses
so you can cross the city without
stopping. It’s also easy to rent a
bike, with handy locations in the
heart of the historic city. See p 163 A modern cyclist on the Old Town
riverbank.
for more details of cycle hire shops.
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84
The Great Outdoors
The Untersberg
1 Untersbergbahn
2 Geiereck
3 Schellenberg Ice Cave E60
4 Hochalm 20 E55
5 Untersberg Museum Schloss
A1
6 Salzburg Open-air Museum Mirabell
7 Hotel Untersberg
Salzburg
Salzburg Airport Festung
W.A. Mozart Hohensalzburg
Hangar-7
A8 Gois
E52 E60
Stieglbrauerei
Schloss
Mauthausen E55 Hellbrunn
21
Salzburger
Schloss Tiergarten
Staufeneck
Marzoll
Fürstenbrunn 5 Anif
Bad Grödig
Reichenhall
AUSTRIA
Großgmain Geiereck 1
6
1806m 2 Niederalm
4
3 7
3
3
159
Hallthurm UNTERSBERG
Marktschellenberg
Karkopf
1740m
GE
Berchfesgadner
Hochthron
IR
20
1972m
B
E
G
N
E Winkl
T 305
T
LA
Lopi GERMANY Oberau
Bischofswiesen
Berchtesgaden Place of Interest
Schwarzeck Airport
Strub Funicular Railway
0 3 mi
305 0 3 km
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85
The Untersberg
uriously, Salzburg isn’t in the mountains, but it’s right on
the edge, with a sensational backdrop on three sides. Other
than the pair of rocks in town—the Mönchsberg and the Kapuziner-
berg—this is the nearest mountain, offering year-round activities.
It’s easy to get to and has all the attractions of the mountains with-
out going that far. START: Mirabellplatz.
Schloss
Mirabell
1 Untersbergbahn. Take bus 2 Geiereck. You arrive at this point
urg no. 25 to the village of Grödig/St. on the massive table mountain, far
Festung Leonhard at the base of the moun- outpost of the Berchtesgaden Alps.
salzburg tain. The bus stops outside the base The mountain, which crosses the
of the cable car, which is a tourist border into Germany and Bavaria’s
attraction in itself. It rises serenely Berchtesgaden National Park
from the plain to 1,807m (5,931-ft.) (p 154, 2), is home to griffon vul-
Geiereck, a 2.4km (11⁄2-mile) ride. tures (bred by Salzburg Zoo), golden
Schloss Should you be feeling energetic you eagles, and chamois. Although you
Hellbrunn can take the cable car one way, walk- can bike and climb, most people
rger ing down or even walking up. There’s come for walking and the Trekking
rten a service every half-hour year-round Map Untersberg—Nature and Culture
Anif (some closures in Apr/Nov for main- is available in English at the cable car
tenance), with slightly shorter hours station (1.50€).
in winter. @ 20 min. www.members. Most people simply wander
aon.at/untersbergbahn. July–Sept around, but there are walks to the
8:30am–5:50pm; Mar–June, Oct/Nov 1,852m (6,078-ft.) Salzburger
8:30am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4pm. Hochthron and 2.054m (6,470-ft.)
Niederalm
Return trip 19€ adults, 9.50€ chil- Berchtesgadener Hochthron
dren 14 and under, free 5 and under. lookouts. Some hikes should only be
Reductions for ascent or descent undertaken with a guide and others
only. Bus: 25 (from the city center); only by those with climbing experi-
21, 28, 35 from other areas. For ence. The weather is unpredictable,
mountain info: www.untersberg.net. so protective clothing is a must—
this place is much bigger than it
The Untersberg fills the horizon south of the city.
Oberau
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86
The Great Outdoors
The Zeppezauer House restaurant occupies a stunning spot atop the Untersberg.
looks from below. Several huts clothing and food. @ 1 hr.

serve food and drink, including Eishöhlenhütte. y 0664/1341690.
Zeppezauer House (open May–Oct, www.eishoehle.net. Daily from Whit-
y 0662/629862), a 20-minute walk sun to end of Oct, tours hourly
down from the cable car, which 10am–4pm. Admission 5€ adults,
dates from 1883. @ 1 hr. 2.50€ children under 14.
3 Schellenberg Ice Cave. This
is on the German side, at 1,569m 4 Hochalm. Opened in 1962,
(5,150 ft.), a 2-hour walk from the shortly after the cable car that is
cable car. It’s a quite remarkable alongside, this cozy restaurant, dec-
experience with halls of ice you pass orated with mounted animal heads
through over walkways, and up and and historic photos, has spectacular
down wooden stairs. The only light views over Salzburg. There’s tradi-
comes from eerie gas lamps carried tional food and weekend barbe-
by the guides and volunteer tour- cues, a couple of lounges, and a big
ists. There are cathedral-like caves sun deck. This is the place to refuel
with walls of ice, which change year after a long walk, but if you want to
by year. The Schellenberger stay, the simple B&B is around 20€,
Eishöhlenhütte serves refreshments children half price (or you can bring
and has 18 beds for hikers. This is a your sleeping bag). y 0662/628674.
long walk and it should only be www.hochalm.net. $.
undertaken by those with extra
Uses of the Untersberg

Untersberg marble—a mottled yellow and pink—has been
used for centuries with columns, tombs, urns, and inscription
plaques in Salzburg having their origin in Roman times. The rock
can be traced through the building and art history of the city, start-
ing with Roman boundary stones all the way to Renaissance and
the baroque statues and buildings. The mountain has also been
used for farming, with large areas at one time turned into alpine
meadows (particularly in the Middle Ages) but now reforested. The
mountain also has plenty of underground springs, which to this day
provide around 75% of Salzburg’s water.
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87
The Untersberg
Ski the Untersberg
This isn’t a ski area as such, but it is possible to ski top-to-
bottom in winter. The 8-km (5-mile) ski run, which drops around
1,400m (4,600 ft.), starts after a 20-minute walk from the cable car.
The run is for experts only and gets steep near the bottom, but it is
possible to avoid the section by skiing down a mountain road. It is
also a popular spot for ski touring (hiking on skis with special skins
on so you can walk up slopes, then ski down). During the ski season,
a mountain rescue team is stationed at the Schweigmühl Alm
where drinks are available. If you like skiing away from the crowds,
this is the place.
5 Untersberg Museum. A city, it’s a spectacular spot where chil-

small museum in the village of dren can run free. There are tractors
Fürstenbrunn, not far from the to climb on, as well as a real adven-
cable car base station (also reach- ture playground, and all sorts of craft
able by nos. 21 and 35 buses), demonstrations. @ 1 hr. Hasenweg,
which tells the story of 2,000 years Grossgmain. y 0662/850011. www.
of quarrying for marble (see ‘Uses of freilichtmuseum.com. Admission
the Untersberg,’ p 86), with a mar- 8.50€ adults, 4€ children, under 7s
ble ball grinding mill, fossils, and free. Bus 25. Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 9am–
changing exhibitions. @ 30 min. Ball 6pm; Mon July/Aug. Dec 26–Jan 6 daily
Mühlweg 4, Grödig. y 0624/67206. 10am–4pm.
www.museum.untersberg.net. Mar–
Dec Sat, Sun & holidays, 1–6pm;
Nov, Mar & Apr 1–5pm.
7 Hotel Untersberg. Right at
the bottom of the mountain, this
6 ★★ = Salzburg Open-air smartly refurbished hotel has a res-
Museum. This is one of those big taurant opening onto a terrace with
places where they collect buildings— Untersberg views. A good place for
there are 70 here, including farms, a beer or meal before heading back
mills, blacksmiths’, and even a brew- to the city. Dr. Friedrich Ödlweg 1,
ery, from across 5 centuries. Set at St. Leonhard. y 06246/72575.
the bottom of the Untersberg moun- www.hoteluntersberg.at. $$.
tain, yet just 9.5km (6 miles) from the
Hiking the Untersberg brings you to many viewing spots.
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88
09_721193-ch05.indd 88
The Great Outdoors
1 Obertauern E52 E60 Salzburg St. Gilgen
A8
2 Zauchensee
3 Gastein Inzell Salzburg Airport Bad Ischl
Ruhpolding W.A. Mozart
O
S
4 Kitzbühel T Hoher Zinken
Bad E 1764m
Marquartstein Reichenhall Hallein R Bad Aussee
5 Schladming H
O Bad Goisern
6 Schnepf’n Alm RN
GR
7 Flachau Berchtesgaden Kuchl UP
Reith PE
Reit im Winkl Golling Hallstatt
8 Leogang Ramsau Königssee Gosau
Gollinger
9 Zell am See
Wasserfall Abtenau
10 Breiteckalm Lammertal Hoher Dachstein
NATIONALPARK 2995m
11 Kitzsteinhorn Waidring Eisriesenwelt
BERCHTESGADEN Caves Bleikogel DA
St. Johann CHS
TEINGRUPPE
Kufstein in Tirol 2412m
Werfen E55 6
3
Fieberbrunn A10
GERMANY Leogang 5
8 Radstadt Schladming
Kirchberg 4
Kitzbühel 7
Saalbach
2
Salzburg Snow Shuttle
Westondorf Muhlbach
10
3 Wagrain
Zell am See
9
Taxenbach Schwarzach Obertauern
1
Place of Interest
Airport Uttendorf 11
Kitzsteinhorn
0 10 mi Hüttschlag
AUSTRIA
0 10 km 3
Gastein
HOHE TAUERN
4/21/10 9:54 PM
89

ustria is one of the world’s top ski destinations and Salz-
burg is a major player—dozens of ski areas are less than an
hour away. You can enjoy the delights of the city of Salzburg by
night while skiing by day. The Salzburg Snow Shuttle is a fabulous
daily coach service that connects the city with a different ski resort
each day of the week. START: Mirabellplatz.
Monday Tuesday
1 ★★ Obertauern. A resort built 3 ★★ Gastein. The small ski area
in the early ’60s, but with sympa- of Dorfgastein (ideal for families) is
thetic architecture rather than the the nearest to the entrance of the
concrete brutality of French develop- Gastein valley. Just along the road
ments. The resort found fame when (connected by free ski bus) is the
The Beatles capered around on skis resort town of Bad Hofgastein with
Hüttschlag
for their movie Help! (there are still its sizeable ski area, which connects
photos on restaurant walls) but it has with the pretty spa town of Bad Gas-
other attractions. Set at 1,737m tein and the high, open slopes of
Gastein
(5,700 ft.) and with skiing nearing Sportgastein. y 0642/7645550.

2,500m (8,200 ft.), there is guaran- www.skiamade.com.
teed snow, a long season (Nov–May)
3
and a good day-long ski circuit, the Wednesday

Tauernrunde, circling high above
AUSTRIA
4 ★★★ Kitzbühel. One of Aus-

the village. y 06456/7252. www. tria’s most-famous ski resorts, this
obertauern.com.
walled medieval town is home to the
2 ★ Zauchensee. Sitting above legendary Hahnenkamm race each
the trees at 1,350m (4,400 ft.) January. Yet, despite its reputation,
Kitzsteinhorn
Zauchensee is Ski Amadé’s (see the skiing here is mostly easy-

p 91) highest village and has some of going—better skiers have to look to
the loftiest slopes. It is connected to the off-piste. As a day out, the resort
the slopes of Flauchwinkl by a charm- itself is a sparkling, upmarket delight
HOHE TAUERN
ing tractor and trailer that hauls gig- (you don’t need to ski to have fun)
gling skiers through a tunnel as but it is low so can suffer from poor
trucks thunder north and south snow, and is often crowded. There
on the Tauern-Autobahn overhead. are more than 50 mountain restau-
y 06457/72800. www.skiamade. rants here, from the historic to the
com. Map p 88. Barenbadalm on the Resterhohe with
its smart, modern bar with flatscreen
Uttendorf
The wide open slopes of Ski Amadé. TVs and huge sofas. y 05356/777.
www.kitzbuehel.com.
Thursday
5 ★★★ Schladming. One of
Austria’s liveliest ski towns (includ-
ing the Hohenhaus Tenne slopeside
bar, traditionally Austrian but on a
10 km
massive scale). Four side-by-side

mountains along the valley—Hauser
Kaibling (reaching 2,014m/6,610 ft.),
Planai, Hochwursen, and Reiter-
alm—are connected, offering plenty
0
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90
The Great Outdoors
The Snow Shuttle
The Salzburg Snow Shuttle runs to a different ski resort each
day, Monday from Obertauern or Zauchensee, Gastein, Kitzbühel,
Schladming, Flachau, Leogang, Zell am See, or Kitzsteinhorn,
although destinations are subject to snow conditions. Journey
times are 50 to 90 minutes. Reservations must be made by 5pm the
evening prior to travel at your hotel, by phone (y 0662/871712) or
on the Internet with Salzburg Tourism (www.salzburg.info),
although there are changing offers, not least free travel Monday to
Wednesday if you buy a lift pass. The buses start from the Europark
shopping mall (p 78) at 8am, which suits locals, but most visitors
will get on at Mirabellplatz at 8:30am (they also call at some hotels).
Buses return at 5 or 6pm. The service runs daily from just before
Christmas until March. You can buy lift passes as well as organize
equipment hire and lessons through on-board multi-lingual guides.
The shuttle is also perfect for (and has information on) toboggan-
ing, walking, cross-country skiing, ice skating, and lazing in natural
hot spring spas, as well as simply sightseeing.
of varied skiing and views of the ride across town, on to Alpendorf.

impressive Dachstein mountain Fast modern lifts mean you can
opposite. y 03687/22042555. squeeze an awful lot into a day. With
www.skiamade.com. the near Flachauwinkl-Zauchensee
area, there are 200km (125 miles)
of runs that suit those with modest
6 ★★ Schnepf’n Alm. Cozy, ski talents while being fast fun for
traditional-but-modern restaurant
better skiers. y 06457/72800. www.
high on Schladming’s Reiteralm
skiamade.com.
slopes. It’s part of the Almwelt village
of luxurious chalets and rooms, and
serves classic Austrian cuisine of the Saturday
Wiener schnitzel variety, the bread- 8 ★★★ Leogang. A quiet village
crumbed and fried veal or pork sta- with a fine beginner area where the
ple. There’s also a panoramic spa long pistes that thunder down
with saunas and steam room— through the trees can be a day out in
perfect if the idea of skiing is too themselves. Yet Leogang is also part
daunting after lunch. y 0645/472577. of one of Austria’s major linked ski
www.almwelt-austria.at. $–$$. areas, the Saalbach Hinterglemm
Leogang Ski Circus, 200km (125
miles) of connected slopes in pretty
Friday surroundings. Once over to Saalbach,
7 ★★ Flachau. A small village you’re onto the circular tour (hence
that is the gateway to Ski Amadé’s Ski Circus) which takes you along the
largest connected area, the Salz- Glemm valley, past Hinterglemm,
burger Sportswelt. The long, fast, then back along the other side. It’s all
cruising runs chase from here over to perfectly prepared, intermediate runs
Wagrain and, with only a shuttle bus and a competent skier would be able
09_721193-ch05.indd 90 4/21/10 9:54 PM

91

to do the circuit in a day (but no long
lunch, especially if you’re hoping to
catch the bus back). y 06582/
70660. www.leogang-saalfelden.at.
Sunday
9 ★ Zell am See. A beautiful
lakeside town with skiing looking
down on the gently lapping waters.
The slopes are mostly easy-going
and, while not a huge area, it is a
great experience to ski here. The
The slopes above Schladming.
stylish town is an interesting place
to visit. y 06542/770. www.
! ★★ Kitzsteinhorn. This alter-
zellamsee-kaprun.com.
nate destination is the glacier area
above the small resort of Kaprun,
0 ★★ Breiteckalm. This is what just along the lakeside from Zell am
Austrian mountain restaurants are See. There is a small but decent col-
all about—rustic yet bustling with a lection of above-treeline runs with
mammoth sun deck. People quaff excellent snow thanks to a top
Jagatee (traditionally a hot concoc- height of 3,029m (9,940 ft.). Kaprun
tion of black tea, rum schnapps, and itself has its own small ski area, the
red wine) and mulled wine from old Maiskogel, but the glacier, reached
family recipes, and fill up on local by its own gondola, is the place
dishes involving cheese, noodles, to be. There are gorgeous views
potatoes, and pork. y 06542/ from the slopes and mountain
73419. www.ski-fun.com. $–$$. restaurants. y 06542/770. www.
zellamsee-kaprun.com.
Ski Amadé
Ski Amadé is Salzburg’s ski world and the name makes sense
if you know it is named after Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. It offers
the most skiing in Austria on one lift pass. Some resorts (Flachau,
Gastein, Schladming, and Zauchensee) are served by the Snow
Shuttle. There are 860km (540 miles) of piste and 270 lifts spread
across 25 resorts and five regions. The slopes reach almost 3,017m
(9,900 ft.), offering snowsure skiing while, just to be certain, 80% of
pistes have artificial snowmaking. The skiing isn’t all connected like
major French areas, but there are large, linked areas, as well as
small, beautiful villages. The nearest resort is around 45 minutes
from Salzburg, with most areas having car parks just off main roads
at the lifts. Schladming is also served by trains from Salzburg, which
take a little over an hour. The trains also call at little Pichl at the near
end of the area—the station is near the base area. Schladming’s
new multi-story car park is built onto the edge of the mountain,
allowing you to ski straight to the door for your level.
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92
09_721193-ch05.indd 92
The Great Outdoors
1 Muhlbach E52 E60 Salzburg
A8 St. Gilgen
2 Filzmoos 4
Inzell Salzburg Airport
3 Hotel Hubertus Ruhpolding W.A. Mozart Bad Ischl
O
Hoher Zinken
S
4 Salzkammergut
Bad T
E 1764m
Dachstein Glacier Marquartstein Reichenhall Hallein R Bad Aussee
5 8 H
O Bad Goisern
6 Tennengebirge RN
Reit im Winkl GR
7 Grossarltal Berchtesgaden Kuchl UP
Reith PE
8 The Untersberg Golling Gosau Hallstatt
Ramsau Königssee
Gollinger
Wasserfall Abtenau
Kaisergebirge Hoher Dachstein
NATIONALPARK Lammertal
2344m 2995m
Waidring Eisriesenwelt
BERCHTESGADEN Caves Bleikogel DA 5
Kufstein St. Johann 2412m CHS
TEINGRUPPE
in Tirol 6
Werfen 3 2
E55 A10
GERMANY Fieberbrunn Leogang
Radstadt Schladming
Kirchberg
Salzburg Area Skiing
Kitzbühel
Saalbach 1
Westondorf Muhlbach
Zell am See Wagrain
Taxenbach Schwarzach Obertauern
Place of Interest 7
Airport Uttendorf Kitzsteinhorn
0 10 mi AUSTRIA Hüttschlag
0 10 km Gastein
HOHE TAUERN
4/21/10 9:54 PM
93

f you don’t take the Snow Shuttle, Salzburg has plenty of other
nearby resorts that you can reach easily with a car, safe in the
knowledge that you’ll be back in the world’s most stylish ski town for
cocktail hour. Stay in the city for another week and you can explore
yet another different resort each day, some of them big, some just
fascinating.
Monday Tuesday
1 ★★ Muhlbach. Start your trip 2 ★ Filzmoos. A picture-post-
with this hidden delight, a village card village snuggling between tree-
that only became a ski area at the covered slopes with only 13km (8
tail end of the ’80s when its mining miles) of runs, but offering a charm-
operations petered out. It’s the ing experience. It’s the place if you
Hüttschlag
nearest entrance to the under-rated fancy a mixture of easy, pretty ski-

(and largely unknown) Hochkönig ing and a traditional lunch in historic
area, and has a car park by the lifts surroundings—with 12 mountain
on the valley road. Skiing follows the restaurants, it’s a pretty good ratio.
Gastein
valley, opposite rugged Hochkönig The annual weeklong balloon festi-

(High King) mountain, crossing the val in mid-January makes you stop
valley at Dienten, and heading for and stare into the packed skies as
Hinterthal and the town of Maria you ski. If you have a car, it’s worth
AUSTRIA
Alm. There are plenty of spots for staying on into the evening when
beginners, lots of treelined pistes, the streets become a party full of
and challenging off-piste on the food, drink, and balloons with their
Aberg above Maria Alm. y 06584/ burners on. y 06457/2800. www.
7661. www.skiamade.com. skiamade.com.
Kitzsteinhorn
Skiing in Filzmoos.
HOHE TAUERN
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94
The Great Outdoors
Cross country skiing around the Tennengebirge area.
3 ★★★ Hotel Hubertus. Nowhere It’s open for lunch at weekends, or

does it finer than the Hubertus, home dinner from 6:30pm Wednesday to
of Austrian celeb chef Johanna Maier. Sunday, and the food is exquisite,
A Longer Stay
Salzburg is lovely but in the winter it’s tempting to disappear to
the slopes for days. Schladming has a wealth of hotels in the busy
town. For something quieter I love the large, classy Pichlmayrgut
(y 06454/7305, www.pichlmayrgut.at), which sits on a hillside
across the valley from the Hochwursen/Reiteralm lifts (it has a free
shuttle bus) with impressive spa and pool. In Hochkönig, the Über-
gossene Alm (y 06461/2300, www.uebergossenealm.at) by the
lifts in Dienten is a similar property with excellent spa. In Leogang,
the big, stylish Krallerhof (y 06583/82460, www.krallerhof.com),
with its own beginner lift and ski school, is a delight, while over in
Hinterglemm the Theresia (y 06541/74140, www.hotel-theresia.
com) is the new face of Austria. Traditional outside, it is cool and
white inside with a hip bar (the ironic Cow print on the wall is a
signed Andy Warhol), tremendous restaurant, spa, and top-notch
children’s facilities. Ski Amadé puts together Learn-to-Ski Weeks
with hotel, ski hire, ski school, and lift pass with everything but half
your accommodation cost refunded if you don’t like it.
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95

Summer Skiing
It is possible to ski through the summer on the region’s glaciers.
The Kitzsteinhorn, near Zell am See, and the Dachstein, near
Schladming, are largely open year-round. There are some spring
and early autumn closures, and it is best to check with the resorts
before heading out. The snow is best in the morning, with a long
lunch, sightseeing, or golf the best options for the afternoon. Con-
ditions improve just before winter and you can often find interna-
tional ski teams holding a training camp.
notably St. Gilgen, where the

dishes such as sweet-sour mushroom Zwölferhorn slopes are reached by
soup with crispy fried perch. You a tiny cable car and have lake views.
can order a la carte, or there’s a 170€ Other options include Faistenau,
five-course gourmet menu with wines. Hintersee, and Koppl. The biggest
Dorfplatz 1, Filzmoos. y 06453/8204.
area is Postalm with 18km (12 miles)
www.hotelhubertus.at. $$$.
of slopes. This is also an area for
cross-country skiing, with lakeside
Wednesday trails in Wolfgangsee, a high-moun-
4 ★ Salzkammergut. Salzburg’s tain trail on the Postalm, and more
lake district has a number of tiny ski than 45km (30 miles) around Faist-
areas that are easy to get to (near- enau. y 0662/668844. www.
est little more than 30 min.). Wolf- salzburgerland.com.
gangsee has a couple of tiny areas,
The lakeside ski area of Zell am See.
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96
The Great Outdoors
Thursday Saturday
5 ★ Dachstein Glacier. Year- 7 ★ Grossarltal. A small area in
round snow, skiing up to 2,700m the beautiful Hohe Tauern National
(8,858 ft.), and wondrous views Park, which connects the village ski-
make this glacier near Schladming ing of Grossarl with that of Dorfgas-
(and above the village ski resort of tein at the head of the Gastein
Ramsau) a place to visit. There’s a valley. There are 80km (50 miles) of
goodly assortment of well-groomed slopes—not huge but attractive,
pistes for all levels. It also has the with mostly easy to medium runs.
glass-floored Sky Walk at 2,700m And there are free ski buses to
(8,858 ft.), high on a 250-m (820-ft.) other resorts in the Gastein valley—
vertical rock face. The 360°-pan- Bad Gastein and Bad Hofgastein.
orama takes in Slovenia and the y 06414/281. www.grossarltal.info/
Czech Republic. y 03687/81833. ew_home.html.
www.skiamade.com.
Sunday
Friday 8 ★ The Untersberg. The
6 ★ Tennengebirge. A small mountain on the outskirts of Salz-
area near Werfen and the Hohen- burg has a cable car and an 8-km
werfen Fortress. There might only (5-mile) off-piste run, which starts
be 24km (15 miles) of runs but the with a 20-minute hike from the top
close scenery of the Tennengebirge station. This isn’t a place for begin-
Mountains is wonderful. There are ners and you only get one run for
also 38km (25 miles) of cross-coun- your money, 9.50 €. Have lunch in
try skiing, 56km (35 miles) of winter the Hochalm, on the mountain by
hiking paths, ice-skating, sledding, the lift, a traditional place stuffed
and horse-drawn sleigh rides, with animal heads. Bus: 25 from the
making it an all-round family day city; 21, 28, 35 from other areas. For
out. y 06466/420. www.werfen mountain info: www.untersberg.net.
weng.org. See p 84.
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6 The Best Dining
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98
The Best Dining
Dining Best Bets
Best Traditional Food
★★ Restaurant s’Herzl $$
Getreidegasse 37 (p 105)
Best Beer Garden

★★ Augustiner Bräustübl $
Augustinergasse 4 (p 101)
Best for Lording It

★★ Festungrestaurant $$$
Mönchsberg 34 (p 103)
Best for Style

★★ Magazin $$ Augustinergasse 13
(p 104)
Best Madly Modern

★ Carpe Diem Finest Fingerfood $
Getreidegasse 50 (p 102)
Best Value
★ Wilder Mann $ Getreidegasse 20
Coffee at Café Tomaselli.
(p 107)
Best Gourmet Treat Best for History
★★ Restaurant Goldener Hirsch ★★ Stiftskeller St. Peter $$$
$$$ Getreidegasse 37 (p 105) St. Peter Bezirk 1/4 (p 107)
Best Coffee Shop Best Dessert
★★ Café Tomaselli $$ Alter Markt 9 ★ Café Sacher $$ Schwarzstrasse
(p 102) 5–7 (p 102)
Best Views Best Fast Food
★★ Restaurant M32 $$ Mönchs- ★ Balkan Grill $ Getreidegasse 33
berg 32 (p 105) (p 47)
Best Indoor Views Best for Families
★★★ Ikarus $$ Wilhelm-Spazier- ★ Sternbräu Gastronomie World
Strasse 7a (p 103) $$ Griesgasse 23–25 (p 106)
Best Secret Best for Romance
★★ Auerhahn $$ Bahnhofstrasse 15 ★★ Restaurant Schloss Mönchstein
(p 101) $$ Mönchsberg Park 26 (p 105)
Previous page: A cafe seen from Mozart’s Birthplace.
10_721193-ch06.indd 98 4/21/10 9:55 PM

Makartplatz
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Dining Best Bets
99
4/21/10 9:55 PM
100
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101
Salzburg Dining A to Z
Stabauer
-
gasse
★★ Andreas Hofer Weinstube www.biowirtshaus.at. Entrees
e
raß
NEW TOWN AUSTRIAN A wine bar- 8€–20€. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner
nst
ste
cum-restaurant that has a resolutely Mon–Sat. Map p 100.

old-school charm. Here, lots of peo- Blaue Gans OLD TOWN AUSTRIAN
ple meet to quaff (beer as well as Ancient vaulted ceilings soar over a
wine), laugh, and knock back a bar- heavenly mix of white walls and even
gain spag bol or Wiener schnitzel whiter linen in this lovely, quiet hotel
(thinly sliced veal or pork, breaded restaurant. Try timeless dishes such
and fried) in quiet moments. Stein- as Wiener schnitzel, or local Danube
gasse 65. y 0662/882200. www.
salmon and Tauern lamb. Getreide-
dieweinstube.at. Entrees 7€–12€.
gasse 43. y 0662/841317. www.
AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner Mon–Sat. Map
blauegans.at. Entrees 15€–22€. AE,
p 100.
DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Wed–Mon.
★★ Auerhahn NEW TOWN AUS- Map p 99.
TRIAN To the delight of those in
Parac
★ Brandstätter OUTSKIRTS AUS-

the know, this small, relaxing place
e
TRIAN Hidden in an out-of-town

lsuss
in the self-named gasthof (guest- gasthof, this unassuming place has

tr.
house) produces award-winning a Michelin star and serves exquisite

modern food mixed with regional takes on traditional food—brawn
dishes—clams in a frothy lime with pumpkin seed oil, for instance.
sauce, dumplings made from soya, Münchner Bundesstrasse 69.
Las
ser lots of game, and river fish. Bahn-
str
aße
y 0662/434535. www.hotel-
hofstrasse 15. y 0662/451052.
brandstaetter.com. Entrees 15€–
www.auerhahn-salzburg.at. Entrees
30€. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Tues–
ße
14€–21.50€. AE, DC, V. Lunch & din-

tra
Fri. Bus: 4, 24. Map p 99.

ers
ner Tues–Sun; lunch & dinner daily

am
lzh
Aug. Map p 100. ★★ Café Bazar NEW TOWN COF-

Ste
FEE HOUSE Opened in 1884, this is

★★ Augustiner Bräustübl OLD
a cozy, riverside place, heavy with
Fra
TOWN BEER HALL One of Austria’s

nz-
wood and chandeliers. Stop for cof-

Jos
biggest beer halls (and biggest beer

ef-S
fee and cakes, or meals such as truf-

tra
garden) also has a string of deli

ße
traß
e fle tortellini, steaks, and casseroles.
lers booths that make it a place for casual
rtha Schwarzstrasse 3. y 0662/874278.
Vie
eating, with everything from radishes www.cafe-bazar.at. Entrees 10€–
to grilled chicken, pickled fish to sau- 18€. AE, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch &
-
sages. Augustinergasse 4. y 0662/ dinner Mon–Sat; breakfast & lunch
4312460. www.augustinerbier.at.
Sun. Map p 100.
ns- Food 3€–15€. No credit cards. Lunch
& dinner daily. Map p 99. ★★ Café Fingerlos NEW TOWN
COFFEE HOUSE There’s almost a
★★ BIO Wirtshaus Hirschen-
French feel here in the big, airy
er
g wirt NEW TOWN AUSTRIAN Every- salon and at the tables out on the
rb thing here is organic, from hearty
ine terrace. The cakes are luscious, but
uz
vegetarian fare (think dumplings), to many come for the elegant desserts
ner- heartier meat (the Hirsch plate fea- featuring ice cream, fresh fruit, and
erkloster
tures venison and blood sausages). even champagne. Franz-Josef-
The setting is a quartet of historic Strasse 9. y 0662/874213. Entrees
e
rooms in the Hotel zum Hirschen. St. 5€–11€. AE, MC, V. Breakfast &
Julien-Strasse 23. y 0662/881335.
lunch daily. Map p 100.
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102
The Best Dining
Café Sacher is home of the chocolate and apricot Sachertorte.
★★ Café Sacher NEW TOWN ★ Carpe Diem Finest Finger-

COFFEE HOUSE This place exudes food OLD TOWN MODERN INTER-
a classic riverside elegance as you NATIONAL This place is the wacky
nibble the chocolate-apricot Sach- brainchild of Red Bull drinks creator
ertorte (the iconic creation of Vien- Dietrich Mateschitz, with two floors
na’s sister hotel). Schwarzstrasse of cafe, bar, and takeout serving
5–7. y 0662/889770. www.sacher. inventive tapas-style food in cones.
com. Entrees 10€–20€. AE, MC, V. Getreidegasse 50. y 0662/848800.
Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Map www.finestfingerfood.com. Two
p 100. courses 15€–30€. AE, DC, MC, V.
Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Map
★★★ Café Tomaselli OLD TOWN
p 99.
COFFEE HOUSE This is a must—
the city’s oldest coffee house dating ★ Culinarium NEW TOWN FRENCH-
from 1705, where Mozart relaxed ITALIAN The rustic decor is
amid the marble tables, balcony, wedged beneath a modern high-rise,
and garden. Enough coffee choices and the food is the kind of rustic
should keep you awake forever. menu you might find in Provence or
Alter Markt 9. y 0662/844488. Puglia rather than a small Alpine city,
www.tomaselli.at. Entrees 8€–16€. with lots of fish soup and risottos
No credit cards. Breakfast, lunch & along with meat dishes. St. Julien-
dinner daily. Map p 99. Strasse 2. y 0662/878885. 16€–
30€. DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
★★ Cafe Wernbacher NEW
Mon–Sat. Map p 100.
TOWN COFFEE HOUSE Around
only since 1936, but it has its own Die Weisse NEW TOWN AUS-
history as home of Salzburg’s first TRIAN Popular with a younger
disco, the raffish Scotch Club, in the party set, this microbrewery can
’60s. Coffee, snacks, and hot dishes be busy, so you may struggle to
are served in a grand European set- find a seat or at least a quiet one.
ting. Franz Josef-Strasse 5. y 0662/ Expect exceptional weisse (wheat)
881099. www.cafewernbacher.at. beers, which are a meal in them-
Entrees 7€–10€. MC, V. Breakfast, selves, plus original cuisine (wheat
lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Map beer soup, Bavarian veal sausage).
p 100. Rupertgasse 10. y 0662/872246.
www.dieweisse.at. Entrees 10€–16€.
10_721193-ch06.indd 102 4/21/10 9:55 PM

103
MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner reasonably priced fare, from grill-
Mon–Sat. Map p 100. würstl (grilled sausage) to fish.
There’s an excellent happy hour
Esszimmer OLD TOWN CONTEM-
antipasti buffet (4–5pm, 10:30–
PORARY AUSTRIAN A hip meeting
11pm) where you can escape the
of cuisines thanks to renowned local
crowds. Linzergasse 9. y 0662/
chef Andreas Kaiblinger, with dishes
88965. www.gablerbrau.com.
such as marinated trout with pump-
Entrees 6.50€–15.50€. MC, V. Lunch
kin rösti and pumpkin vinegar, and
& dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 100.
saddle of venison with red cabbage
and polenta. The bright, modern Gasthaus Glocke OLD TOWN
decor with video screens is perhaps AUSTRIAN Deep in the Old Town,
a tad too hip, although the view of this small restaurant seems to
the river running underneath adds a escape the attention of the tourist
timeless touch. Müllner Hauptstrasse hordes. Local dishes include a selec-
3. y 0662/870899. www.esszimmer. tion of sugary pancakes, plus a
com. Entrees 25€–30€. AE, DC, MC, changing daily menu. There’s also a
V. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sat. Map small garden. Schanzlgasse 2.
p 99. y 0662/8453910. Entrees 6€–13€.
AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–
★ Festungrestaurant OLD TOWN
Fri; lunch only Sat. Map p 99.
AUSTRIAN This is the restaurant
high in the medieval fortress (at the ★★★ Ikarus OUTSKIRTS MODERN
top of the funicular), but the touristy INTERNATIONAL This is perhaps
setting belies the fine food, which Salzburg’s sleekest restaurant, over-
includes game and Salzburger bau- looking the aircraft collection at
ernschmaus (meat, sausage, and modernistic Hangar-7 (p 20, 3).
dumpling stew). Mönchsberg 34. Each month a different chef is flown
y 0662/841780. www.salzburg in from around the world, creating a
highlights.at. Entrees 11€–21€. MC, new menu. The food is as modern
V. Dinner daily. Map p 99. (and attractive) as the surroundings.
Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse 7a. y 0662/
Gabler Brau NEW TOWN AUS-
219777. www.hangar-7.com. Entrees
TRIAN A locals’ meeting place
28€–35€. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch &
since 1429 and still serving
dinner daily. Map p 99.
Café Tomaselli, one of Salzburg’s most historic coffee houses.
10_721193-ch06.indd 103 4/21/10 9:55 PM

104
The Best Dining
Tradition . . . and Much More
Austrian food was long known for its heavy, meat tradition.
However, what to the casual onlooker might have seemed to be a
slab of pork with dumplings was often much more. Now the tradi-
tions have been refined and you can find old recipes with a modern
touch as well as plenty of places where you’ll find more varieties of
dumpling—both as a main course and laden with sweet sauces—
than you’d think possible. Combine that with the rest of the world
catching up with Austria in the use of local, organic produce and
you have some wonderful dishes you have to try.
Il Sole OLD TOWN ITALIAN If you the tourist trail near the river, for
want an authentic Italian restaurant, schnitzel and much more, with a
this is the place, right by the gastronomic touch. Müllner Haupt-
Mönchsberg elevator. The relaxed strasse 31. y 0662/432274. www.
room downstairs and the more krimpelstaetter.at. Entrees 10€–
refined upstairs are decorated with 18€. MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–
Italiana, down to the giant pepper Sat. Map p 99.
mills. Top pizza, pasta, and a little bit
★★ Magazin OLD TOWN CONTEM-
more at rustic prices. Gstättengasse
PORARY AUSTRIAN Within a mod-
15. y 0662/843284. Entrees 13€–
ern complex (including a wine bar,
18€. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
wine shop, and kitchen store) behind
daily. Map p 99.
the Mönchsberg, you’ll discover a
★★ Krimpelstätter OLD TOWN Michelin-starred restaurant where
AUSTRIAN To experience a real Austrian classics are reinvented and
locals’ hangout, you’ll do well to paired with local wines. Augustiner-
head to this old braugasthof (an gasse 13. y 0662/841584. www.
inn that brewed its own beer) off magazin.co.at. Three-course menu
Carpe Diem Finest Fingerfood.
10_721193-ch06.indd 104 4/21/10 9:55 PM

105
Expect classic Austrian cuisine at the Michelin starred Magazin.
around 50€. AE, MC, V. Lunch & din- dreamy setting. Makartplatz 4.
ner Mon–Sat. Bus 4, 21. Map p 99. y 0662/8873557. www.bristol-
salzburg.at. Entrees 18€–28€. AE,
Mostschenke OUTSKIRTS AUS-
DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat.
TRIAN Traditional food (much
Map p 100.
homebred pork) is served in the gar-
den in summer or the homely ★ Purzelbaum OLD TOWN BISTRO
kitchen in winter at the Rauchenbi- Austria meets France on the sunny
chlgut farm/guesthouse. Don’t plan side of the Mönchsberg. Art Nou-
on driving home after tasting one of veau ceilings and marble tables are
the homemade schnapps. Rauchen- a charming foil to the Med-tinged
bichlerstrasse 23. y 0662/458048. cuisine, in what is a boisterous Festi-
www.rauchenbichlgut.at. Entrees val crowd hangout. Zugallistrasse 7.
15€–20€. MC, V. Dinner Tues–Fri. y 0662/848843. www.purzelbaum.
Bus 3, 5, 23. Map p 100. at. Entrees 22€–30 €. AE, MC, V.
Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 99.
Mundenhamer NEW TOWN AUS-
TRIAN Simple, traditional food is ★★ Restaurant Goldener
offered at bargain prices in this unas- Hirsch OLD TOWN AUSTRIAN A
suming place across the road from Salzburg classic serving Austrian and
the Mirabell Palace. Themed, sea- Salzburg creations (often venison) in
sonal weeks involve asparagus, not sumptuous ‘rustic’ surroundings.
to mention dumplings and strudel. Ask for the Karajan-Table, composer
Rainerstrasse 2. y 0662/875693. Herbert von Karajan’s regular spot.
www.mundenhamer.at. Entrees Getreidegasse 37. y 0662/8084861.
7€–16€. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & din- www.goldenerhirsch.com. Entrees
ner Mon–Sat. Map p 100. 18€–30€. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch &
dinner. Map p 99.
Polo Lounge NEW TOWN AUS-
TRIAN A rich and stylish place in ★★ Restaurant M32 OLD TOWN
the Hotel Bristol (p 135), rated along- MODERN INTERNATIONAL A smart
side the Goldener Hirsch for sheer eatery in the Museum der Moderne
class (although the dress code for (p 40, 1) on the Mönchsberg
both is smart casual). It features an with glorious city views. Snacks and
inspired take on Austrian cuisine, coffee are served all day, there’s a
plus cross-border Italian dishes, in a good-value business lunch, then
10_721193-ch06.indd 105 4/21/10 9:55 PM

106
The Best Dining
candlelit dining takes over in the one of the most classic buildings in
evening. Mönchsberg 32. y 0662/ the Old Town. The country-baroque
841000. www.m32.at. Entrees interior is the perfect setting for
9.50€–29€. AE, DC, MC, V. Break- lighter Austrian fare including fried
fast, lunch & dinner Tues–Sat; break- chicken and various fish dishes.
fast & lunch Sun. Map p 99. Rudolfskai 28. y 0662/84857155.
www.austria-trend.at. Entrees 18€–
★★ Restaurant Riedenburg
27€. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
OUTSKIRTS MODERN AUSTRIAN
Mon–Sat. Map p 99.
Head out of town for a sophisticated
dining experience in a cream- ★★ Restaurant Wasserfall NEW
painted, suburban villa. Local fare TOWN ITALIAN A temple of north-
such as venison and trout is served ern Italian cuisine, with dishes in
in imaginative ways with a country rich sauces, simply grilled fish, and
feel. Neutorstrasse 31. y 0662/ classic pasta. A small waterfall tum-
830815. www.riedenburg.at. Entrees bles out of the Kapuzinerberg rock
30€–35€. MC, V. Lunch & dinner that forms the rear of the restaurant
Tues–Sat. Bus: 1, 22. Map p 99. and runs through the dining area in
a trough. Linzergasse 10. y 0662/
★★ Restaurant Schloss
873331. www.restaurant-wasserfall.
Mönchstein OLD TOWN CONTEM-
at. Entrees 8€–20€. AE, MC, V. Din-
PORARY AUSTRIAN In the hotel
ner Mon–Sat. Map p 100.
atop the Mönchsberg, this eatery
(sometimes referred to as Restau- Sabah’s Kebap Haus OLD TOWN
rant Paris Lodron) has city views TURKISH Much-loved by students
and a terrace. It’s modern cuisine and all lovers of kebab, this shack by
with Austrian heritage (butter-fried the river serves up bargain doner
pike/perch on a bed of celery purée, and shish kebabs as well as other
roast loin of lamb dredged in pump- snacks. Sit on the riverbank or at
kin seeds) and nods to a conserva- one of the few tree-shaded tables.
tive international clientele (king Rudolfsplatz 1a. y 0662/844272.
prawns with sesame oil and ginger). Entrees 3€–6€. No credit cards.
Mönchsberg Park 26. y 0662/ Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 99.
8485550. www.monchstein.at.
★★ Scio’s Specereyen OLD
Entrees 25€–50€. AE, DC, MC, V.
TOWN AUSTRIAN Tempt the taste-
Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 99.
buds at this cafe-bistro with tapas-
★★ Restaurant s’Herzl OLD style dishes (oysters, ragout patties)
TOWN AUSTRIAN The casual sister and Austrian and Mediterranean
to Restaurant Goldener Hirsch is dishes, followed by Capezzoli di
loved by the Festival types, not least Venere (Nipples of Venus), chocolate-
Leonard Bernstein (his photo is on dipped chestnut and nougat truffles.
the wall). Try the Nürnberger Brat- Sigmund Haffnergasse 16. y 0662/
würstl (small, roast sausages with 841638. www.venusbruestchen.at.
sauerkraut). Getreidegasse 37. Entrees 7€–21.50€. AE, MC, V. Break-
y 0662/8084889. www.goldener fast, lunch & early dinner Tues–Sat.
hirsch.com. Entrees 7€–22€. AE, Map p 99.
DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map
★★ St. Paul Stube OLD TOWN
p 99.
AUSTRIAN A charmingly discreet,
★ Restaurant Symphonie OLD wood-paneled place in the shadow
TOWN AUSTRIAN Book a table here of the Mönchsberg. The menu is
if you want a good excuse to get into awash with hearty soups, dump-
the Altstadt SAS Radisson (p 132), lings, and meat, and more
10_721193-ch06.indd 106 4/21/10 9:55 PM

107
dumplings for dessert, all turned out Historic cafe signs
with style. The place is packed fill the streets.
with students and locals
thanks to its reasonable brewery site—
prices, so a reservation is recom- five restaurants and
mended. There’s also a garden that several beer gardens
can be so busy include the Brau-
it’s cozy. Her- meister brew-
rengasse 16. pub and
Trattoria La
y 0662/
843220. www. Stella. There’s
paul-stube.at. also a playroom
Entrees 8€–20€. AE, and a good chil-
MC, V. Dinner Mon–Sat. dren’s menu.
Map p 99. Griesgasse
23–25. y 0662/
Stadtkrug NEW TOWN 84214080. www.
AUSTRIAN In the traditional sternbrau.com. Entrees
hotel of the same name, the restau- 8€–18€. AE, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch
rant serves fish from mountain lakes & dinner daily. Map p 99.
and beef from its own country
estate, all with an Austrian flair. The ★★ Stiegl Brauwelt OUTSKIRTS
room is stylishly rustic, while the BEER GARDEN At the Stiegl brew-
roof garden offers a candlelit ery (p 47), where tours are followed
delight. Linzergasse 20. y 0662/ by tastings, you’ll find the brewer’s
8735450. Entrees 18€–26€. AE, DC, buffet features meaty local dishes.
MC, V. Lunch & dinner Wed–Mon. You can also sample upmarket Aus-
Map p 100. trian food in the Braustube tavern.
Bräuhausstrasse 9. y 0662/
★= Sternbräu Gastronomie 83871492. www.brauwelt.at. Entrees
World OLD TOWN AUSTRIAN A 11€–22€. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
‘food and drink world’ on an historic daily. Bus 1. Map p 99.
Coffee Culture
There are probably more flamboyant, elegant coffee houses
crammed into a tiny area of Salzburg than just about any other city,
and that’s saying something for Austria, a place where thick,
foamy, black coffee is its lifeblood. No Starbucks and muffins here.
Aside from the simple black stuff we’re talking extraordinary con-
coctions laced (well, perhaps a bit more than laced) with exotic
liqueurs and topped with dramatic cream, served by waiters who
look like they’ve stepped out of the Ritz, and cakes so rich they
should be driving a Rolls Royce.
Yet cafes here aren’t just places for a caffeine hit and a treat,
they’re extravagant all-day (and often all-evening) places, generally
offering hot dishes or at least something real to eat. They should be
visited every bit as much as a museum or castle, packed with his-
tory and culture. Maybe cut out the cakes every now and then.
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108
The Best Dining
Sternbräu.
★★ Stiftskeller St. Peter OLD on Universitätsplatz. Sigmund-Haff-

TOWN AUSTRIAN Europe’s oldest ner-Gasse 12. y 0662/840745.
restaurant was established by Bene- Entrees 8€–17€. DC, MC, V. Lunch &
dictine monks in A.D. 803, in a warren dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 99.
of rooms and a vaulted cellar. Expect
★★ Zum Mohren OLD TOWN AUS-
pork, sauerkraut, dumplings, and
TRIAN Built into the 13th-century
other staples, well done. St. Peter
city walls, this historic restaurant has
Bezirk 1/4. y 0662/8412680. www.
welcomed Mozart and Schubert. The
haslauer.at. Entrees 12€–20€. MC, V.
menu is made up of innovative local
Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 99.
food, particularly venison in winter.
★★ Wilder Mann OLD TOWN Judengasse 9. y 0662/840680. www.
AUSTRIAN Try the piled-high farm- restaurant-zummohren.at. Entrees
er’s plate of pork, sausage, veal, 12€–25€. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & din-
cabbage, and dumplings in this ner Mon–Sat. Map p 99.
cheery old inn with a hunting lodge
feel, yet right in the heart of town.
= Zwettler’s Stiftskeller OLD
TOWN AUSTRIAN Austrian classics
Getreidegasse 20. y 0662/841787.
are served alongside more straight-
Entrees 8€–15€. No credit cards.
forward fare in this pub, beer gar-
Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 100.
den, and restaurant open from late
★★ Zipfer Bierhaus OLD TOWN morning until 1am. The garden is
AUSTRIAN Simple Austrian also very family-friendly and is an
dishes—goulash, cheese-covered ideal place to bring the kids. Kai-
noodles—at a good price. The pub gasse 3. y 0662/844055. www.
is divided into two rooms with sim- stiftskeller-zwettler.com. Entrees
ple wooden tables: one for drinkers, 8€–17€. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
another for those who want to eat. daily. Map p 99.
In the summer, there are tables out
10_721193-ch06.indd 108 4/21/10 9:55 PM

7 The Best Nightlife
11_721193-ch07.indd 109 4/21/10 9:55 PM

110
The Best Nightlife
Nightlife Best Bets
Steinterrasse at night.
Best Old-World Atmosphere Best Riverside Garden Bar

★★★ Bar Goldener Hirsch, with Music
Getreidegasse 37 (p 113) Baboon Bar, Imbergstrasse 11
(p 113)
Best Views
★★★ Steinterrasse, Giselakai 3-5 Hippest Cave
(p 114) ★★★ Bar Saitensprung, Steingasse
11 (p 114)
Best Dance Club
★★ Cave Club, Leopoldskronstrasse Best Champagne Skybar
5 (p 116) ★★★ Threesixty Bar, Hangar-7,
Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse 7A (p 113)
Best Open-Air Bar
★ StieglKeller, Festungsgasse Best Irish Bar
10 (p 115) O’Malley’s, Rudolfskai 16 (p 114)
Best Beer Hall Best Gay Bar
★★★ Augustiner Bräustübl, Diva, Priesterhausgasse 22 (p 116)
Augustinergasse 4 (p 115)
Previous page: Nightlife in the Old Town.
11_721193-ch07.indd 110 4/21/10 9:55 PM

Mirabellgarten Kapuzinerkloster
Makartplatz
Sch Mozarteum Mozart- runn Rudolfsplatz
Mozart- Hellb Rudolfskai
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112
The Best Nightlife
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113
Salzburg Nightlife A to Z
Bars Saturday. Richard Mayr Gasse 1.
Afro Cafe OLD TOWN A strange,
rhamerstr
y 0662/8772970. www.buero-
yet entrancing place that’s good for salzburg.at. Map p 112.
aße
daytime coffee, then Afro-inspired

Cave le Robinet NEW TOWN
food such as curry and couscous in
This wine merchant bridges the gap
Virgilg
the early evening, before becoming

with a tasting cellar and tavern.
a cool nighttime hangout until late.
asse
You’ll find the best of Austrian wines

Bay
Bürgerspitalplatz 5. y 0662/844888.
erh
along with many others. Steingasse

a me
www.afrocoffee.com. Map p 111.

43. y 0662/5591237. www.
rstr
aße
Baboon Bar NEW TOWN This amphora-ttgc.com. Closed evenings.

lively spot with a garden, down by Map p 112.
the river, is fun for all ages, as long as
★ Chez Roland NEW TOWN For
a ße you can deal with the large music col-
up tstr more than 30 years, the Festival
r Ha lection that focuses on the ’70s, ’80s,
crowd has headed to this arty bar. It
and, of course, disco. Imbergstrasse
occupies an old salt storage cellar
11. y 0662/885932. Map p 112.
with its vaulted ceiling, yet natural
★★★ Bar Goldener Hirsch OLD light filters in. Choose from a large
TOWN The inner courtyard at one selection of Austrian wines. Usually
of the ancient hotels is now an irre- open until at least 4am. Giselakai 15.
sistible bar, all stags’ heads and y 0662/874335. Map p 112.
arches. It’s a Salzburg classic. Try the
Daimler’s NEW TOWN A lively riv-
signature cocktail, the Suzanne—
erbank bar and club that is also pop-
vodka, cassis, orange juice, and
ular with the gay crowd, although
g tonic. Getreidegasse 37. y 0662/
it’s not strictly a gay bar. Giselakai
8084824. www.goldenerhirsch.com.
17. y 0662/890989. Map p 112.
Map p 111.
★★ Hangar-7 OUTSKIRTS Near
Buro NEW TOWN American- the airport, this futuristic hangar
themed cellar bar and pizzeria
has two bars, gourmet restaurant,
with arched brick ceilings, down an
Ikarus, and lots of planes. The
alley off Makartplatz. Free live jazz,
Threesixty Bar hanging from the
blues, and soul music Wednesday to
Red Bull Hangar-7.
ass
e
ße
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114
The Best Nightlife
Steinterrasse, the spectacular roof top cafe-bar.
roof has views through its glass Segabar OLD TOWN Noisy and
floor. The Mayday Bar serves Smart generally packed, this club-style bar
Food—dishes created by a nutri- stays open until 4am Monday to Sun-
tionist to supposedly make you day. Music, TVs, and moderately
look, feel, and act smarter. Wilhelm- priced drinks. Rudolfskai 18. y 0662/
Spazier-Strasse 7A. y 0662/21970. 846898. www.segabar.at. Map p 111.
www.hangar-7.com. Bus: 2. See
p 20, 3. Map p 111.
Shamrock OLD TOWN While this
Irish bar may lack Euro chic, it does
Living Room Bazillus NEW have Guinness, pizza, burgers, a pool
TOWN A small but busy and trendy table, sports TV, and live music.
bar. Relax in the small garden with Rudolfskai 12/Judengasse 1. y 0662/
city and river views. Imbergstrasse 841610. www.shamrocksalzburg.
2a. y 0662/81631. Map p 112. com. Daily midnight–3am, Thurs–Sat
to 4am, Sun to 2am. Map p 111.
O’Malley’s OLD TOWN On most
days, this Irish-themed pub is pleas- Shrimps NEW TOWN Cocktails
antly low key (avoid Thursday karaoke) and seafood go hand-in-hand at this
in a pubby way with Guinness and bright and lively bar, not least the
Irish(ish) food. Its livelier sister, the shrimp roll—an irresistible baguette
Shamrock, is just down the street. oozing sauce and shrimps. Steingasse
Rudolfskai 16. y 0662/84965. www. 5. y 0662/874484. www.shrimps.at.
omalleyssalzburg.com. Map p 111. Map p 112.
Pepe NEW TOWN It’s always ★★★ Steinterrasse NEW TOWN
fiesta time at this cocktail bar with a This spectacular roof terrace cafe-bar
Mexican touch, hence margaritas, tops the stylish Hotel Stein (p 137) on
lots of tequila, and piles of nachos. the riverbank with views of the
Steingasse 3. y 0662/873652. www. Mönchsberg. Giselakai 3–5. www.
pepe-cocktailbar.at. Map p 112. hotelstein.at. y 0662/8743460. Map
p 112.
★ Saitensprung NEW TOWN A
very trendy bar-cum-disco with a hip Watzmann NEW TOWN ‘Cultbar-
crowd and hip music. The setting is lounge-garden’ as the place, next to
suitably inspiring—a cave dug into the Hotel Stein, describes itself. The
the Kapuzinerberg several centuries lively place, generally throbbing to
back. Steingasse 11. y 0662/881377. disco and club music by the river,
Daily 9pm–4am. Map p 112.
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115
overflows with a young crowd until ale brewed on the premises. Bräu-
4am. Giselakai 17a. y 0662/877237. hausstrasse 9. y 0662/83871492.
Map p 112. www.brauwelt.at. Bus: 1. Map p 112.
Die Weisse NEW TOWN Various

Brewpubs rich weisse (wheat) beers—such as
★★★ Augustiner Bräustübl OLD the wonderful dark bock, brewed
TOWN On a chilly winter Sunday before Easter and Advent—are
evening when the city seems aslum- created in this hugely popular
ber, there’s still life in this old beer microbrewery and bar tucked away
hall. Grab a stone mug of the in-house in the backstreets. It’s small, but
brew and everything’s right with only by comparison to the likes
the world. It also has Austria’s biggest of the Augustiner. Rupertgasse 10.
beer garden. Augustinergasse 4.
y 0662/872246. www.dieweisse.at.
y 0662/431246. www.augustiner Map p 112.
bier.at. Daily 3–11pm. Map p 111.
Raschhofer’s Rossbräu Her-
★ Bärenwirt OLD TOWN An rnau OUTSKIRTS Enjoy the atmo-
excellent pub with terrace down by sphere and jolly after-work clientele
the river at the foot of the Mönchs- at this big, bustling, modern brew-
berg that manages to be both mod- pub and beer garden by a shopping
ern and traditional. Not strictly a mall just off the busy Alpenstrasse.
brewpub, but it serves beer from the Alpenstrasse 4/Zentrum Herrnau.
Augustiner brewery. Popular with
y 0662/626444. www.rossbraeu.at.
students. Müllner Hauptstrasse 8. Map p 111.
y 0662/422404. www.baerenwirt-
salzburg.at. Map p 111. ★ Stiegl Hell OLD TOWN A dark,
warm brewpub on the banks of the
★ Brauhaus Gusswerk OUT- Salzach, with a selection of Stiegl
SKIRTS A bit out of town, but worth beers—one of the liveliest small bars
the trek. This award-winning organic in town. Rudolfskai 25. y 0662/
brewery serves up special beers (try 843498. Map p 111.
the dark, herby Black Betty). The
modern bar in an old warehouse also ★★★ StieglKeller OLD TOWN
serves organic food. Söllheimerstrasse This is the place to go for a feel of Sal-
16. y 0662/243279. www.brauhaus- zburg. Several beer halls are set into
gusswerk.at. Bus: 21. Map p 112. the rock beneath the Hohensalzburg
Fortress, with terraces overlooking
★ Braumeister OLD TOWN Part town. It’s the perfect spot as the sun
of the gigantic food and drink com- sets. Festungsgasse 10. y 0662/
plex in the old Sternbrau brewery 842681. May–Sept. Map p 111.
(p 106), yet with the feel of a tiny,
hidden bar, this claims to be Salz- The StieglKeller is a massive beer hall cut
burg’s oldest pub. It’s dark, fun, and into the face of the Mönchsberg here.
has a goodly array of beer. Wednes-
day is students’ night. Griesgasse 23.
y 0662/84214080. www.sternbrau.
com. Map p 111.
★★ Bräustüberl OUTSKIRTS At
Stiegl Brauwelt (p 106), a museum
complex, this lively bar is open daily
until midnight. There is also a bus-
tling beer garden and a selection of
simple Austrian food to soak up the
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116
The Best Nightlife
Beer Hall or Beer Garden?
Salzburg has cavernous beer halls and it has relaxing beer
gardens. How do you choose? Well, beer gardens are perfect for a
cooling daytime tipple, while a beer hall is a place where time stands
still as you pass the evening. The city’s two beer icons have them
both. The Augustiner Bräustübl (p 115) is a huge place that serves
just beer—one kind, out of one tap after you’ve paid the one lady for
a ticket. Indoors is a series of rooms, all filled with tables and beer
drinkers; outside is another world, even in the evening, with children
playing and families enjoying themselves. The StieglKeller (p 115),
serves a selection of the fabled Stiegl brew along with wine and
waitress-service meals. Inside has a calming, restaurant air while
outside the beer garden (actually a massive beer terrace) overlooks
the city and is a place of nighttime partying.
There are plenty of other places where you can sit out with a
beer, often a beer brewed on the premises, although not on the
same scale. Many bars, especially by the river, have gardens.
Casino with the arched ceilings to create a

Casino Salzburg OUTSKIRTS swirling scene that could be from a
Expect the sort of casino you might ’60s pop-art movie. Gstättengasse
see in a James Bond movie, set in a 4–6. y 0676/670407. www.half
former prince archbishop’s palace moon.at. Thurs–Sat 10pm–5am.
with a design based on Versailles Cover around 5€. Map p 111.
palace. Roulette, poker, blackjack,
stud poker, and slot machines. Jack- Gay & Lesbian Bars
ets required. Schloss Klessheim, Diva NEW TOWN One of the city’s
Wals-Siezenheim. y 0662/8544550. two hottest gay bars, along with
www.casinos.at. Map p 111. 2-stein. They’re just around the
corner from each other in the old,
Dance Clubs riverbank part of the New Town.
★★ Cave Club OUTSKIRTS This Priesterhausgasse 22. y 0662/
famed spot with top-quality DJs and 832680502. Map p 112.
cutting-edge techno and house
2-stein NEW TOWN Smart bar
music is a world away from main-
(you might also see it called Zwei-
stream clubbing. Regular dub reg-
stein) with modern art on the walls
gae nights too. And it really is a
and occasional live entertainment.
cave of sorts, built into the Rainberg
Fills up as the night goes on—which
mountain. Leopoldskronstrasse 5.
is until 4am in the week, 5am at
y 0662/840026. www.cave-club.at. weekends. The crowd moves in
Cover charge 5€–10€. Map p 111.
waves between here and Diva.
Half Moon OLD TOWN A popu- Giselakai 9. y 0662/877179. www.
lar and sophisticated club and zweistein.at. Map p 112.
lounge where the lights combine
11_721193-ch07.indd 116 4/21/10 9:55 PM

8 The Best Arts &
Entertainment
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118
The Best Arts & Entertainment
Arts & Entertainment Best Bets
Mozart Dinner Concert at St. Peter’s Monastery during the Salzburg Festival.
Best Classical Concert Best Puppet Experience

★★★ Salzburger Schlosskonzerte, ★★★ Salzburg Marionette Theater,
Schloss Mirabell (p 121) Schwarzstrasse 24 (p 121)
Best Festival Best for Rock ’n’ Roll
★★★ Salzburg Festival, various Rockhouse, Schallmooser
venues (p 122) Hauptstrasse 46 (p 125)
Best Concert Hall Best Dinner Show
★★ Large Festival Hall, ★★ Mozart Dinner Concert,
Hofstallgasse 1, (p 24) Stiftskeller St. Peter (p 122)
Best Sporting Event Best for Dance
★★ FC Red Bull Salzburg, ★★ Sommerszene, various venues
Stadionstrasse 2, 5071 Siezenheim, (p 124)
Wals-Siezenheim (p 126)
Previous page: The Salzburg Festival is one of the world’s most important arts
festivals.
12_721193-ch08.indd 118 4/21/10 9:56 PM

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12_721193-ch08.indd 120 4/21/10 9:56 PM

121
Arts & Entertainment A to Z

Cinema concerts (www.adventserenaden.
Das Kino NEW TOWN The city’s at). Bürgerspitalgasse 2. Ticket
arts cinema shows movies from prices vary. Map p 119.
around the world in their original
Salzburg Marionette Theater
language with German subtitles.
NEW TOWN Going strong since
Giselakai 11. y 0662/873100. www.
1913, the puppets act out opera,
daskino.at. Ticket prices vary. Map
Parac
mostly Mozart. Then there’s The

p 120.
Sound of Music in English with
elsus
Thunderbirds-like characters and a

str.
Classical & Opera classy U.S.-recorded score. Schwarz-

★★ Concerts at Five OLD TOWN strasse 24. y 0662/8724060. www.
Enjoy charming hour-long summer marionetten.at. Tickets 22€–35€
Las
concerts at the Haydn Museum, adults, 14€ children 11 and under.
ser
str
a ße
with varied composers celebrated Map p 120.
by young musicians on original
Salzburger Landestheater
instruments. Johann-Michael-Haydn-
ße
NEW TOWN This beautiful audito-

tra
Museum, Courtyard, St. Peter’s

ers
rium dates back to 1775, and has

am
Abbey. y 0662/84457619. www.

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been recently revamped. There’s a

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concerts-at-five.com. July–Sept
wide selection of ballet, dance,
Thurs–Tues 5pm. Tickets 15€ adults,
Fra
opera, and classical operettas,

nz-
12€ children 6–15. Map p 119.

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along with plays and children’s thea-

ef-S
Gotischer Saal OLD TOWN The ter, but mostly in German. Schwarz-
tra
ße
tra ße Gothic Hall in the Church of St. Bla- strasse 22. y 0662/871512222.
lers
rtha sius (also confusingly known as the www.salzburger-landestheater.at.
Vie
Civic Hospital Church and Church of Tickets 5€–49.50€. Map p 120.
- the Holy Spirit) snuggles up to the
★★★ Salzburger Schloss-
Mönchsberg. It provides a smart
konzerte NEW TOWN The best
setting, with a ribbed ceiling, for
ns- regular music in Salzburg. Near-daily
classical recitals and Advent
rg
uz
in er
be
Advance Tickets
ner-
The Mozarteum not only puts together Mozart Week, but also the
erkloster Dialogues Festival and around 20 major concerts throughout the
year. Its website (www.mozarteum.at) is a good place to buy these,
but while Mozart Week operates at 95% capacity, there are still
tickets available near the time. In Mozart Week, the Mozarteum
ticket office is open daily 9am to 6pm. The Salzburg Festival has its
own year-round shop and box office at the Festival Halls, while its
website (www.salzburgerfestspiele.at) gives all sorts of ticket per-
mutations. Salzburg Ticket Service (Mozartplatz 5; y 0662/
840310, www.salzburgticket.com) has tickets for most things.
Kartenbüro Arena (Alpenstrasse 119; y 0662/6232330, www.
arena.at) has tickets for events in Salzburg and other cities.
12_721193-ch08.indd 121 4/21/10 9:56 PM

122
The Salzburg Festival
The Salzburg Festival is the world’s biggest arts festival with
more than 200 concerts, plays, and operas in more than a dozen
venues, from cathedral to theater. It’s been going since 1920 and
runs from late July until the end of August, paying tribute to Mozart
and many other composers, with exciting new productions. The
city comes alive and gets packed, so advance booking of hotels is
essential. Moreover, despite there being more than 220,000 tickets
on offer, most go swiftly. You can order tickets from the website
(www.salzburgfestival.at), either individual tickets or one of many
combinations, which give you performances on consecutive days.
Either way, you should have your request (possibly appeal) in by
mid-January. Don’t simply plan to arrive in town and decide on a
show; this has to be sorted out in advance. However, even if you’re
not planning on a show, the Festival weeks are a spectacle in them-
selves—the streets are full of beautiful gowns and dinner suits as
people make their way to performances, restaurants are alive with
arty visitors, and upmarket hotel bars are deep in excited discus-
sions. On the other hand, if you like it quiet, stay away.
concerts by small ensembles in the opera, as you eat in a hall in the old-
Mirabell Palace’s Marble Hall are est restaurant in central Europe. This
arranged by, and often feature, Salz- may be a tourist must, but is impres-
burg violinist Luz Leskowitz. Splen- sive nonetheless. Stiftskeller St.
did music played with no costumes Peter, St. Peter Bezirk 1/4. y 0662/
or fuss. Schloss Mirabell, Mirabell- 828695. www.skg.co.at. Daily at
platz. y 0662/848586. www. 8pm. Tickets 48€ adults, 28€ chil-
salzburger-schlosskonzerte.at. Tick- dren 13 and under. Map p 119.
ets 29€–35€ adults, 10€ children.
Bus: 3, 5, or 6. Map p 120. Knights’ Feast takes place at the Hohen-
salzburg Fortress.
Dinner Shows
★ = Knights’ Feast OLD TOWN
Combination of medieval entertain-
ment and traditional Austrian dinner
in the Hohensalzburg fortress. Quaff
beer from tankards, eat suckling pig,
pitch horseshoes, and fire cross-
bows. Great family fun with a chil-
dren’s menu. Mönchsberg 34.
y 0662/825859. www.salzburg
highlights.at. Tickets 32€ adults, 14€
children 11 and under. Map p 119.
★★ Mozart Dinner Concert OLD
TOWN Musicians in period cos-
tume play and sing classics, including
12_721193-ch08.indd 122 4/21/10 9:56 PM

123

The ornate setting of the Mozart Dinner Concert, the oldest restaurant in Europe.
★ Salzburger Festungkonzerte ensemble and as a chamber music

OLD TOWN The Mozart Ensem- orchestra. Pfeifergasse 10. y 0662/
ble Salzburg perform Mozart, 881547. www.aspekte-salzburg.at.
Haydn, and more high in the Golden Early Mar. Ticket prices vary. Map
Hall of the fortress. Dinner is served p 119.
before the concert in the restaurant
★ Culture Days OLD TOWN
at the top of the funicular. Hohensalz-
Classical performances, operas, and
burg Festung. y 0662/825858.
a wealth of local and international
www.mozartfestival.at. Daily Apr–
performers, ensembles, choirs, and
Oct; regularly for rest of year. Tickets
orchestras. Various venues. y 0662/
47/51€ with dinner; 31/38€ concert
845346. www.salzburg.com/
only. Map p 119.
kulturvereinigung. Two weeks in Oct.
The Sound of Salzburg OLD Ticket prices vary.
TOWN An evening of songs that
Dialoge NEW TOWN An event
made the city famous, largely from
exploring Mozart’s works through
The Sound of Music, although you’ll
contemporary music, dance, film, and
also find folk, operettas, Mozart,
literature. Mahler, Schönberg, and
and the Trapp Family Folk Music
John Cage have all been featured in
Revival. There’s a choice of three-
the innovative selections. Mozarteum,
course menus. Sternbräu Dinner
Theatergasse 2. y 0662/83154.
Theatre, Griesgasse 23. y 0662/
www.dialoge-festival.at. Nov–Dec.
826617. www.soundofsalzburgshow.
Tickets 20€–25€. Map p 120.
com. Mid-May–Oct daily dinner
7:30pm, show 8:30pm; year-round ★★ Easter Festival OLD TOWN
for groups by arrangement. Tickets Classical music, usually revolving
46€ with dinner & drink; 32€ with around a major opera (Sir Simon Rat-
drink only. Map p 119. tle conducted Richard Wagner’s Ring
cycle over several seasons). Various
venues. y 0662/8045361. www.
Festivals
osterfestspiele-salzburg.at. Week
Aspekte Salzburg OLD TOWN
before Easter. Ticket prices vary.
A celebration of modern classical
music (with premieres) with the ★ Encounter Festival NEW TOWN
focus on the Austrian Ensemble for Orchestral works, chamber music
New Music, performing both as an (played by the distinguished
12_721193-ch08.indd 123 4/21/10 9:56 PM

124
y 0662/873100. www.daskino.at.
Late Nov–early Dec. Ticket prices
vary. Map p 120.
★★★ Mozart Week NEW TOWN
Winter’s musical highlight is this
expansive selection of popular clas-
sics combined with lesser-known
works, plus contemporary compos-
ers, performed by world-renowned
string quartets and orchestras.
Mozarteum, Theatergasse 2. y 0662/
873154. www.mozarteum.at. Late Jan.
Ticket prices vary. Map p 120.
★★★ Salzburg Festival CITY-
Opera performed in the fantastical set- WIDE The world’s leading classical,
ting of the Felsenreitschule during the opera, and drama festival across
Salzburg Festival.
5 weeks (see p 122). Various venues.
Camerata Salzburg group), and solo y 0662/873100. www.salzburg
festival.at. Late July–Aug. Ticket
compositions with a theme such as
prices vary.
‘Nature’ held over a weekend in mid-
May. Mozarteum, Theatergasse 2. Sommerszene CITYWIDE Dance
y 0662/873154. www.mozarteum. celebration—from hip-hop to bal-
at. Mid-May. Ticket prices vary. Map let—involving world-renowned cho-
p 120. reographers, plus theater, music,
and art. Locations vary from the arts
★ Jazz Festival CITYWIDE Expect
group Szene’s Republic Theatre to
everything jazz from the avant-garde
the Museum der Moderne. Various
to the traditional in locations as
venues. y 0662/843448. www.
diverse as the University Auditorium
sommerszene.net. Mid-July. Ticket
and Stiegl’s Brauwelt. Top interna-
prices vary.
tional names as well as upcoming
delights. Various venues. y 01/ ★ Whitsuntide Festival CITY-
5048500. www.jazz4you.at. Late Oct– WIDE Music and opera festival that
early Nov. Ticket prices vary. focuses on Neapolitan baroque and
the links between Austria and Italy.
Literature Festival OLD TOWN
Venues include the Mozarteum and
A celebration of the written word
Collegiate Church. Various venues.
with readings and discussions in vari-
ous languages. Everything from y 0662/8045500. www.salzburg
festival.at. Mid-May. Ticket prices
Greek mythology marathons to
vary.
poetry shows make this a true cross-
border festival. Various venues. ★ Winterfest NEW TOWN A cir-
y 0662/885048. www.literaturfest- cus festival in a big top in a park
salzburg.at. Late May. Ticket prices near the river. Ensembles from vari-
vary. ous countries put on high-wire dis-
plays, as well as tumbling, clowning,
Mountain Film Festival NEW
and all the classics, yet with an
TOWN The world’s leading
upmarket air. Volksgarten.
climbers descend on the city for
vertigo-inducing movies, talks, and y 0662/887580. www.winterfest.at.
Dec. Ticket prices vary. Map p 120.
discussions. Das Kino, Giselakai 11.
12_721193-ch08.indd 124 4/21/10 9:56 PM

125

Live Music Regular live music and other events.
★ Jazzclub Life NEW Anton Neymayr Platz 2. y 0662/
TOWN Popular jazz club with regu- 841613. www.republic-cafe.at.
lar live acts, and some big-name Fri- Ticket prices vary. Map p 119.
day guests. Reasonably priced
★★ Rockhouse NEW TOWN A
drinks. Schallmooser Hauptstrasse
great rock venue set in a 19th-cen-
50. y 0664/2134548. www.jazzclub
tury wine cellar and ice store back-
life.at. Ticket prices vary. Bus: 4.
ing onto the Kapuzinerberg where
Map p 120.
you can catch well-known British
★★ Jazzit NEW TOWN Trendy and U.S. bands alongside a wide
club near the station featuring live range of European acts. Schall-
acts from jazz to drum ’n’ bass and mooser Hauptstrasse 46. y 0662/
more esoteric musical cousins. Elis- 884914. www.rockhouse.at. Ticket
abethstrasse 11. y 0662/875996. prices vary. Bus: 4. Map p 120.
www.jazzit.at. Ticket prices vary.
Salzburgarena OUTSKIRTS This
Map p 120.
large, 21st-century venue in the
Oval OUTSKIRTS Europark is grounds of Salzburg’s exhibition
apparently Europe’s first shopping complex is a spectacular place com-
mall to have an arts and concert bining a wooden dome with state-of-
venue. The Oval puts on jazz, folk, the-art equipment and stunning
and other music along with cabaret, interior design. It stages major con-
dance, and movies each evening. certs and shows from chart acts to
Away from town but trains and Bob Dylan to Michael Flatley’s Lord
buses stop outside. Europastrasse 1. of the Dance. Am Messezentrum 1.
y 0662/44202131. www.oval.at. y 0662/24040. www.salzburgarena.
Ticket prices vary. Bus: 1, 20, 28; at. Ticket prices vary. Bus: 1. Map
S-bahn: S3. Map p 119. p 119.
★★ Republic Cafe OLD TOWN Sporthalle Alpenstrasse OUT-

Hang out with musicians and rock SKIRTS Sports venue which is also
fans in an artfully unkempt bar, per- used for pop concerts. Otto-Holz-
formance areas, and club at the bot- bauer-Strasse 5. y 0662/623344.
tom of the Mönchsberg elevator. Bus: 3, 8. Map p 119.
The Mozarteum is home to the Mozart Festival and many other concerts.
12_721193-ch08.indd 125 4/21/10 9:56 PM

126
FC Red Bull Salzburg OUT-
SKIRTS Watch the regular Bundes-
liga soccer champions in action
against the likes of Rapid Vienna
late summer to spring. There are
tours of the modern, architecturally
striking stadium on Saturdays (not
matchdays) 10am to 1pm, free
admission but must be booked via
website. Stadionstrasse 2, Wals-
Siezenheim. y 0662/433332. www.
redbulls.com. Tickets 11€–23€
adults, 2€–7€ children. Bus: 1, 20,
28; S-Bahn train to Europark/Tax-
ham. Map p 119.
Salzburg AMREF Marathon

CITYWIDE More than 4,000 run-
ners take to the streets the first Sat-
urday of May, starting and finishing
on Residence Square, taking in
Street musician perfoming outside the
Cathedral.
Mozart Square, Hellbrunn, and Leo-
poldskron. Thousands more take
Performance part in a half-marathon, fun run,
ARGEkultur OLD TOWN An inde- children’s, and team races. www.
salzburg-marathon.at.
pendent arts complex that puts on
avant-garde shows involving DJs, SV Austria Salzburg OUTSKIRTS
dance, modern music, cabaret, multi- The soccer team was set up by fans
media presentations, and even chil- after Salzburg’s original soccer team
dren’s festivals. Josef-Preis-Allee 16. was taken over and rebranded FC
y 0662/848784. www.argekultur.at. Red Bull Salzburg. SV are currently
Ticket prices vary. Map p 119. moving up through the divisions.
Eichetstrasse 31. y 0664/73631040.
Spectator Sports Tickets 5€. www.austria-salzburg.at.
EC Red Bull Salzburg OUT- Bus: 27. Map p 119.
SKIRTS One of Austria’s leading
ice-hockey teams, with games Theater
played throughout the winter at the Summer Theater NEW TOWN
Eisarena, a short walk from the Summer sees an eclectic season of
Kapuzinerberg, near the river. Salz- productions with everything from
burger Eisarena, Hermann Bahr- classics to Woody Allen’s Midsum-
Promenade 2. y 0662/630752. mer Night’s Sex Comedy. Mostly in
http://ecredbulls.seso.at/2006/news. German, though. Kleines Theater
php. Ticket prices vary. Bus: 6, 7, 20. Schallmoos, Schallmooser Haupt-
Map p 120. strasse 50. y 0664/3021746. www.
salzburger-sommertheater.at. Tick-
ets 10€–20€. Map p 120.
12_721193-ch08.indd 126 4/21/10 9:56 PM

9 The Best Lodging
13_721193-ch09.indd 127 4/21/10 9:56 PM

128
The Best Lodging
Lodging Best Bets
The Old Town has plenty of stylish hotels.
Best Romantic Hotel Best for History

★★★ Schloss Mönchstein $$$$ ★★★ Arthotel Blaue Gans $$
Mönchsberg Park 26 (p 139) Getreidegasse 43 (p 133)
Best Luxury Hotel Best Views

★★★ Hotel Bristol $$$$ Makart- ★★★ Hotel Stein $$ Giselakai 3–5
platz 4 (p 135) (p 137)
Best Budget Hotel Best for Families

★★ Hotel Schwarzes Rössl $ ★★ Jedermann Design-hotel $$
Priesterhausgasse 6 (p 137) Rupertgasse 25 (p 138)
Best Old Town Location Best for Spa

★★★ Altstadt Radisson SAS $$$ ★★ Wolf-Dietrich $$ Wolf-
Rudolfskai 28 (p 132) Dietrich-Strasse 7 (p 140)
Best Country Retreat Best for The Sound of Music

★★★ Schloss Leopoldskron $$ Fans
Leopoldskronstrasse 56 (p 139) ★★ Villa Trapp $$$ Traunstrasse
34 (p 140)
Best Restaurant
★★ Hotel Sacher $$$ Schwarz- Best Business Hotel
strasse 5–7 (p 137) ★ NH Hotel Salzburg $$ Franz-Josef-
Strasse 26 (p 138)
Best Boutique Hotel
★★★ Arte Vida $$ Dreifaltigkeits- Best Low-Cost
gasse 9 (p 133) Accommodation
★★ Institut St. Sebastian $ Linzer
Best Affordable Design
Gasse 41 (p 138)
★★ Hotel Evido Salzburg City $$
Rainerstrasse 25 (p 135)
Previous page: Schloss Leopoldskron.
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131
4/21/10 9:56 PM
Morzger
Straße
132
The Best Lodging
Salzburg Lodging A to Z
www.austria-trend.at. 62 units. Dou-
bles 245€–600€ w/breakfast. AE, DC,
MC, V. Map p 129.
★★ Altstadthotel Amadeus NEW
TOWN I just love the views over the
cemetery of St. Sebastian, where
Mozart’s father lies. Evocative corri-
dors give way to modern rooms,
some with four-posters, some six-bed
family apartments. Good breakfast,
and free afternoon coffee. Linzergasse
43. y 0662/871401. www.hotel
amadeus.at. 26 units. Doubles 100€–
180€ w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Map
p 130.
Altstadthotel Amadeus.
★★ Altstadthotel Stadtkrug
NEW TOWN This is so Salzburg—a
★★★ Altstadt Radisson SAS burgher’s house snuggling against
OLD TOWN It might sound like the Kapuzinerberg rock. The com-
something big and modern, but this is fortable, modern rooms provide an
a pink-washed inn dating back to agreeable contrast with the roman-
1377. Now a five-star hotel, its loca- tic setting. Linzergasse 20. y 0662/
873545. www.stadtkrug.at. 35 units.
tion is perfect. Some rooms have
Doubles 135€–200€. AE, DC, MC, V.
wooden beams, and there’s a court-
Map p 130.
yard. Rudolfskai 28. y 0662/8485710.
Where to Stay
Where should you stay? Well, Salzburg’s Old Town is the hub
with some of the most classic, historic hotels. By and large, the
price reflects this, but don’t fear if they’re out of your price range.
The Old Town is also the busiest area and can be a little overwhelm-
ing. Head across the river and, as well as the biggest, swishest
hotels (the Bristol (p 135) and Sacher (p 137)), you’ll find many more
reasonable properties. In the streets opposite the Mirabell Gar-
dens, there are friendly, historic places like the Austrotel (p 133)
and the smart, bright NH Hotel (p 138). Not only are prices more
reasonable but you can enjoy a pleasing walk to and from the
sights. Generally, the hotels around the station are cheaper but the
surroundings are blandly European, you have none of the feel of
staying in a classic city, and it’s a goodly walk (or bus ride) from
where you want to be. Hotels in treelined outskirts can be a good
choice, offering a countryside air while rarely being far from bus or
train stations, or even a pretty hike or bike ride from town.
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133
★ Altstadthotel Zur Goldenen
★★★ Arte Vida NEW TOWN This
Ente OLD TOWN Sitting on the pic- is a bizarre Moroccan-themed retreat
turesque Goldgasse in the heart of with individually designed rooms, sat-
the Old Town, the hotel dates back to ellite TV, and free Wi-Fi, along with a
the 14th century and offers style at a courtyard garden (shared with the
moderate price. Don’t miss the roof Mozart Residence, p 16, 5). There’s
terrace at happy hour. Goldgasse 10. a communal kitchen or you can buy
y 0662/845622. www.ente.at. 17 breakfast. Dreifaltigkeitsgasse 9.
units. Doubles 110€–160€. AE, DC, y 0662/873185. www.artevida.at. 5
MC, V. Map p 129. units. Doubles 70€–120€. AE, MC, V.
Map p 130.
Amadé Hotel Schaffenrath
OUTSKIRTS This is an excellent busi- ★★ Arthotel Blaue Gans OLD
ness base: eight meeting rooms, and TOWN Claiming to be Salzburg’s
apartments each with meeting space, oldest inn (650 years old), the ‘Blue
kitchenette, extra beds, and connect- Goose’ has undergone a 21st-cen-
ing doors. It’s also a good base for tury rebirth. Cool decor and original
exploring the city and countryside. art in rooms are in contrast to the
Alpenstrasse 115–117. y 0662/ ancient stone vaults housing the res-
639000. www.amadehotel.at. 48 taurant. Getreidegasse 43. y 0662/
units, 28 apartments. Doubles 128€– 84219150. www.blauegans.at. 40
218€ w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. units. Doubles 130€–250€ w/break-
Bus: 3, 8, 28, 840. Map p 131. fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 129.
★★ Ambiente Hotel Struber ★★★ Austrotel Salzburg NEW
OLD TOWN A good-value place with TOWN The former palace of Arch-
a family atmosphere on the sunny bishop Paris Lodron, this is now a
plain beneath the Hohenfestung. smart place to stay opposite the
Rooms are cozy and traditional; some Mirabell Gardens (p 12, 0). My chil-
have a balcony and a view of the for- dren loved the free soft drinks and
tress. It’s a 10-minute walk, passing free Internet in the lobby, while we
the Nonnberg Convent, into the Old relaxed with a free coffee. Paris-
Town, and a pretty stroll out to the Lodron-Strasse 1. y 0662/8816880.
Leopoldskron Palace. Nonntaler www.austrotel.at. 73 units. Doubles
Hauptstrasse 35. y 0662/843728. 210€ w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.
www.struber.at. 14 units. Doubles Map p 130.
90€–168€ w/breakfast. AE, MC, V.
Map p 129.
Many of Salzburg’s best hotels are close to the river.
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The Best Lodging
Salzburg Card Packages
The local tourist board (www.salzburg.info) puts together rea-
sonably priced packages for 2 or 3 nights in conjunction with its
Salzburg Card (p 165). The packages give accommodation in a selec-
tion of three- and four-star hotels and a Salzburg Card, which gives
entry to all attractions and use of public transport during the period.
Prices depend on the season, and vary from around 100€ to 190€
per break. There are small discounts for children. The website also
offers a general booking service for most hotels in Salzburg.
★★ Berglandhotel NEW TOWN hotel looks traditional; inside, it’s

A small, well-priced hotel that com- been refurbed, so ancient stone
bines Austrian warmth with modern steps and wooden ceilings comple-
simplicity. It’s in a quiet street away ment white rooms, modern art, and
from the tourist trail (although just soft lighting. Goldgasse 17. y 0662/
along from the Die Weisse brewpub). 842765. www.hotelamdom.at. 15
It boasts a solarium and a delightful units. Doubles 140€–220€. AE, DC,
roof terrace. Rupertgasse 15. y 0662/ MC, V. Map p 129.
872318. www.berglandhotel.at. 18
Castellani Parkhotel OUTSKIRTS
units. Doubles 95€–108€ w/break-
This big hotel complex combines an
fast. AE, MC, V. Map p 130.
old house and newer buildings that
★★ Boutiquehotel am Dom have been finished to a charming, if
OLD TOWN On the outside, this businesslike, effect in parklike gar-
dens, with a baroque wedding cha-
Berglandhotel. pel and an old priory. There are
conference facilities and two restau-
rants. Alpenstrasse 6. y 0662/
20600. www.hotel-castellani.com. 151
units. Doubles 150€–230€. AE, DC,
MC, V. Bus: 3, 8, 28, 840. Map p 131.
★★ Christkönig Kolleg OLD
TOWN A guesthouse at the foot of
the Mönchsberg that’s part of the
Archbishopric Salzburg—during
term time it also accommodates
female students. The prices are
very reasonable (singles from
36€) although some have shared
showers and WC, but there’s a
decent breakfast buffet included.
Kapitelplatz 2A. y 0662/842627.
www.christkoenig-kolleg.at. 20 units.
Doubles 70€–84€ w/breakfast. MC,
V. Map p 129.
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Hotel Bristol is one of Salzburg’s best addresses, opposite Mozart’s Residence.
Cordial Theater-Hotel NEW ★★ Haus Arenberg NEW TOWN

TOWN This historic building oozes A B&B on the slopes of the Kapuz-
Salzburg style with an attractive inerberg. It’s just away from the river
lobby bar, and a hidden garden. The in pretty gardens (and a garden
Barcarole restaurant serves local room for the big buffet breakfast)
and international cuisine while the with gorgeous views of the city and
Intermezzo cafe with its terrace is mountains from most rooms. Blu-
good for lighter fare. There’s also mensteinstrasse 8. y 0662/640097.
massage, sauna, and solarium. www.arenberg-salzburg.at. 13 units.
Schallmooser Hauptstrasse 13. Doubles 125€–160€ w/breakfast.
y 0662/881681. www.cordial.at. 58 AE, MC, V. Map p 130.
units. Doubles 139€–218€ w/break-
★★★ Hotel Bristol NEW TOWN
fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 130.
A classic grand European affair on a
★★ Gästehaus Steinerhof OUT- square facing Mozart’s Residence.
SKIRTS It’s difficult to resist the Gloriously over-the-top rooms are
red deer and the lush grounds of decorated in the style of historical
this charming guesthouse. Resident eras. The Polo Lounge restaurant
chickens provide breakfast, and (p 104) creates seasonal Austrian and
there are pretty, traditional rooms. Italian specialties. Makartplatz 4.
Town is a short bus ride away. y 0662/8735570. www.bristol-
Moosstrasse 138. y 0662/826280. salzburg.at. 60 units. Doubles 215€–
www.gaestehaus-steinerhof.at. 8 670€ w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.
units. Doubles 60€ w/breakfast. AE, Map p 130.
MC, V. Bus: 60. Map p 130.
★★★ Hotel Elefant OLD TOWN
Gasthof Auerhahn NEW TOWN Tucked away down a small street in
Families would do well to seek out the heart of the city you’ll find this
this guesthouse past the station but 700-year-old palace. It’s a Best
only a bus hop (most lines) or mostly Western hotel but retains all its Aus-
riverside stroll from the sights. It trian character, including a restau-
comes complete with a great break- rant with vaulted ceilings and local
fast buffet in an award-winning res- dishes with an international touch.
taurant. Bahnhofstrasse 15. y 0662/ Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse 4. y 0662/
451052. www.auerhahn-salzburg.at. 843397. www.elefant.at. 60 units.
15 units. Doubles 72€–85€ w/break-
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136
The Best Lodging
Doubles from 210€ w/breakfast. AE, Rieder Kai 25. y 0662/622565.
DC, MC, V. Map p 129. www.hotel-gastein.at. 14 units. Dou-
bles 118€–168€ w/breakfast. AE,
Hotel Evido Salzburg City NEW
MC, V. Map p 131.
TOWN This small but stylish hotel
has simple yet sophisticated rooms Hotel Goldene Krone NEW
including flatscreen TVs. It’s a few TOWN A great setting—backing
minutes’ walk in from the station, onto the Kapuzinerberg with a court-
and near the river. Good breakfast yard set into the rock—makes this
buffet. Free laptop rental. Rainer- 15th-century family-run hotel a joy.
strasse 25. y 0662/875400. www. Great views across the city skyline.
evido.at. 20 units. Doubles 86€–138€ Linzergasse 48. y 0662/872300.
w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 130. www.hotel-goldenekrone.com. 24
★★ Hotel Gästehaus Scheck units. Doubles 84€–130€ w/break-
fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 130.
OUTSKIRTS The feel of a chateau—
white rooms and dark furniture, set ★★★ Hotel Goldener Hirsch
in a country garden—makes this a OLD TOWN A star in Salzburg’s
splendid getaway. Yet it’s just off the crown, this is a 15th-century inn
river past the Kapuzinerberg. Renn- turned sleek international property
bahnstrasse 11. y 0662/623268. (part of the Starwood Luxury Collec-
www.hotel-scheck.com. 10 units. tion), which has all the flair and style
Doubles 90€–110€ w/breakfast. AE, you’d hope for from the city. It’s the
MC, V. Map p 131. discreet home to musical stars dur-
★★ Hotel Gastein OUTSKIRTS ing the Festival. Getreidegasse 37.
The 15-minute walk to the sights y 0662/80840. www.goldener
hirsch.com. 69 units. Doubles 170€–
from this villa on the Salzach is stun-
615€. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 129.
ning. You can sit and enjoy the views
of the mountains and fortress from Hotel Hofwirt NEW TOWN An
the lounge in the garden. Inside the 1898 property given a modernistic
hotel, the hand-carved stairs lead to makeover with bright rooms and a
traditionally furnished rooms. Ignaz smart bar. It’s just off Linzergasse at
Let’s Go Camping
Salzburg might not seem like a city for campsites, but there are
several within easy reach of the center. Camping Nord-Sam (www.
camping-nord-sam.com) is just north of the New Town and on the
no. 23 bus route. Set in a pine forest, there’s a big open-air pool and
rentable cycles for a streamside trail into the city. Panorama Camp-
ing Stadblick (www.panorama-camping.at) is close by (near the
nos. 3, 5, and 23 bus routes) and is more open with big city and
mountain views. Camping Kasern (www.camping-kasern-salzburg.
com) is the wrong side of the A1 autoroute, but the no. 21 bus stops
outside, and there are big, ready-pitched tents to rent. Camping
Schloss Aigen (www.campingaigen.com) is to the south of the city,
in a nice spot at the foot of the Gaisberg mountain, but a bit of a walk
from transport (bus no. 7/Salzberg Aigen station).
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137
Hotel Sacher, seen from across the river.
the end of the traffic-free thorough- in the restaurant. Bayerhamerstrasse

fare, so quiet while still only a short 14. y 0662/ 8814380. www.mercure.
stroll to the river. Schallmooser at. 121 units. Doubles 115€–175€.
Hauptstrasse 1. y 0662/8721720. AE, MC, V. Bus: 2. Map p 130.
www.hofwirt.net. 15 units. Doubles
★ Hotel Ramada NEW TOWN
Chain hotel right by the station but
Map p 130.
with a touch of flair—a sixth-floor
Hotel Hohenstauffen NEW TOWN restaurant, smart roof terrace, and
Built when the trains arrived (1860) two-floor spa. Südtiroler Platz 13.
and run by the same family for a cen- y 0662/22850. www.ramada.de.
tury, this is perfect for the station 120 units. Doubles 75€–200€. AE,
area. There are four-poster beds, a MC, V. Map p 130.
baroque lounge, and a cycle room.
★★★ Hotel Sacher NEW TOWN
Elisabethstrasse 19. y 0662/
Along with the Bristol (p 135), this is
872193. www.hotel-hohenstauffen.at.
Salzburg’s five-star height, on the
31 units. Doubles 95€–145€ w/break-
river, awash with antiques and run by
the family of the Sachertorte dessert
Hotel Josefa OUTSKIRTS A cen-
tury-old hotel in a country setting The Hotel Stein’s roof terrace offers
with a secluded garden between the wonderful views of the city.
Old Town and Leopoldskron Palace.
The city’s attractions are walkable, or
it’s 5 minutes by bus. Reasonable
prices and away from the hustle-bus-
tle. Nussdorferstrasse 5. y 0662/
825586. www.hotel-josefa.at. 15
rooms. Doubles 85€–125€ w/break-
fast. AE, MC, V. Bus: 21, 22. Map
p 131.
= Hotel Mercure NEW TOWN

The Mercure is a modern chain hotel
in a quiet street 10 minutes’ walk
from the river. Ideal for families, chil-
dren can stay free in the parents’
room and there’s a children’s menu
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The Best Lodging
The beautiful Schloss Leopoldskron, formerly an archbishop’s palace.
creator. The Zirbelzimmer, with river of my favorite Salzburg spots—are

terrace and original wood ceiling, is stupendous. The Stein opened in
one of four places to dine. Schwarz- 1399, and was turned into a design
strasse 5–7. y 0662/889770. www. icon in 2003. Giselakai 3–5. y 0662/
sacher.com. 112 units. Doubles 8743460. www.hotelstein.at. 17
276€–980€ w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, units. Doubles 169€–219€ w/break-
V. Map p 130. fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 130.
★★★ Hotel Schwarzes Rössl ★ Institut St. Sebastian NEW
NEW TOWN Tucked away in a little TOWN A guesthouse, youth hostel,
street off Linzergasse, this 15th-cen- and student dorm at St. Sebastian
tury building makes a pleasing hide- Church. There’s no age limit, but it’s
away, full of wood and white walls. for the young-at-heart with communal
The rooms are charmingly traditional, lounges, kitchens, and laundry in an
even if many lack en-suite facilities. ancient setting. It has regular en-suite
Priesterhausgasse 6. y 0662/84426. rooms as well as dorms (beds around
www.academiahotels.at. 50 units. 20€). Linzer Gasse 41. y 0662/
Doubles 50€–66€. AE, DC, MC, V. 871386. www.st-sebastian-salzburg.
Map p 130. at. 110 beds incl. 3 10-bed dorms.
Doubles 55€–70€. MC, V. Map p 130.
★★★ Hotel Stein NEW TOWN
Wedged between the river and ★ Jedermann Design-hotel
Kapuzinerburg, the views—particu- NEW TOWN A grandiose 1830s
larly from the rooftop cafe-bar, one
Religious Rooms
Several places linked to the city’s religious orders offer simple
and very reasonably priced lodging. The Christkönig Kolleg (p 134)
has an enviably central position and rooms with breakfast from 35€
per person. Nearby is the Seminary Guesthouse (p 139) where
other people staying will be candidates to the priesthood of the
diocese. Johannes Schlössl der Pallottiner (above) is high on the
Mönchsberg while the Institut St. Sebastian (above) offers rooms
and dormitories in Linzergasse on the other side of the river.
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139
building with cool, modern rooms Pension Katrin OUTSKIRTS If
and family apartments, some with a you enjoy cycling, this unassuming
garden. Breakfast in the hidden gar- pension (small, family-run hotel)
den is a treat. The atmosphere with sunny patio in a green and
might be sleek, but the place is pleasant area south of the Old Town
friendly and family-run. A good fam- is handy for various cycle paths as
ily choice. Rupertgasse 25. y 0662/ well as Hellbrunn and Leopoldskron.
873240. www.hotel-jedermann.com. Nonntaler Hauptstrasse 49. y 0662/
15 units. Doubles 95€–160€ w/ 830860. www.members.aon.at/
breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 130. pensionkatrin.at. 12 units. Doubles
90€–125€ w/breakfast. DC, MC, V.
★★ Johannes Schlössl der Pal-
Bus: 5, 22, 25. Map p 131.
lottiner OLD TOWN Atop the
Mönchsberg is the religious retreat Salzburg Seminary NEW TOWN
of the Pallottiner monks amid trees A simple guesthouse that is home
and gardens, with stunning views, to trainee priests, but also open to
and only a stroll from the Augustiner the public. Breakfast, all organic or
beer hall (p 115). Guest rooms are FairTrade, is 6€. Cheap and central.
light and simple; breakfast and din- Dreifaltigkeitsgasse 14. y 0662/
ner is served in the hall for 7.50€. 87749545. www.kirchen.net/priester
Mönchsberg 24. y 0662/846543. seminar. 60 units in July–Aug, 22
http://pallottiner.szg.at. 55 units. from Oct–June. Doubles 46€–78€.
Doubles 80€–100€. No credit cards. No credit cards. Map p 130.
Map p 129.
★★★ Schloss Leopoldskron
★★ NH Hotel Salzburg NEW OUTSKIRTS An absurdly beautiful
TOWN A bright chain hotel, used by former archbishop’s palace reno-
tourists and businessmen alike, in a vated by Salzburg Festival founder
quiet spot just off historic Linzergasse Max Reinhardt, and famed for its role
with a relaxed bar and sauna. Special as the lakeside Trapp mansion in The
packages have extras such as bike Sound of Music. It has been owned
hire. Franz-Josef-Strasse 26. y 0662/ by a private foundation since 1947
8820410. www.nh-hotels.com. 140 but is now opening rooms to outside
units. Doubles 110€–210€ w/break- guests. There are palace suites (the
fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 130. Reinhardt Suite has a secret passage
Schloss Mönchstein, atop the Mönchsberg.
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140
The Best Lodging
to the library) and rooms in the y 0662/889990. www.sheraton.com/
adjoining Meierhof building. You’re salzburg. 162 units. Doubles 125€–
likely to mix with visitors here for 450€. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 130.
seminars, but you have the run of
Trumer Stube NEW TOWN The
the palace and grounds, and get
flower-bedecked windows draw you
breakfast in the Marble Hall or in the
to this pink-painted hotel tucked
mirrored Venetian Room, recreated
away between Mirabell Gardens and
by Hollywood for the film. Dinner is
Linzergasse. Simple, baroque-tinged
served for group bookings. If you’re
rooms make this a pleasant retreat.
not a guest, you won’t get to see any
Bergstrasse 6. y 0662/84776. www.
of this—it’s behind locked gates.
trumer-stube.at. 20 units. Doubles
Leopoldskronstrasse 56. y 0662/
839830. www.schloss-leopoldskron.
Map p 130.
com. 66 units. Doubles 98€–145€;
Reinhardt Suite 350€ w/breakfast. ★★★ Villa Trapp OUTSKIRTS
AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 22. Map p 131. This is the real Trapp home (not the
one in The Sound of Music movie), a
★★★ Schloss Mönchstein OLD
country mansion set in parkland. The
TOWN Atop the Mönchsberg with
family lived here from 1923 to 1938
city views and treelined walks, this is
(when they fled the Nazis) and it was
boutique luxury. Rooms and suites
owned by a religious order until
are individually furnished in Vienna
2008. It’s now a sophisticated B&B
Workshop style or in castle charac-
with simple, dark furniture, and a pri-
ter. You can borrow a laptop, and
vate chapel where you can get mar-
eat in the glass-fronted restaurant.
ried. There’s also an exhibition on the
Mönchsberg Park 26. y 0662/
history of the house and the Trapps’
8485550. www.monchstein.at.
fate, and a Sound of Music theme in
24 units. Doubles 240€–1,200€
the park. Although there’s a country
w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 25.
feel, you’re only minutes from the
Map p 129.
station (which is minutes from the
Schwärzler Hotel Neutor OLD city) and bus stop. Traunstrasse 34.
TOWN Behind the Mönchsberg, y 0662/630860. www.villa-trapp.
just a short walk through the moun- com. 14 units. Doubles 105€–225€
tain parking cave to the sights, this w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Train:
hotel brands itself as the ‘meeting Bahnhof Aigen; Bus: 7. Map p 131.
place for artists’ and features work
★ Wolf-Dietrich NEW TOWN
by local and international artists.
A classic Austrian hotel with buildings
Neutorstrasse 8. y 0662/8441540.
on either side of the street. Smart
www.s-hotels.com. 89 units. Doubles
decor and—a rarity here—a swim-
ming pool and spa. The hotel’s
Map p 129.
restaurant, Ährlich, claims to be Aus-
★★ Sheraton Salzburg NEW tria’s first licensed organic restaurant.
TOWN You know what you’re get- Wolf-Dietrich-Strasse 7. y 0662/
ting at this glossy international luxury 871275. www.salzburg-hotel.at. 40
hotel, with a gourmet restaurant units. Doubles 119€–199€ w/break-
serving international cuisine and Aus- fast. AE, MC, V. Map p 130.
trian favorites. Auerspergstrasse 4.
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10 The Best Day Trips
& Excursions
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142
The Best Day Trips & Excursions
Salt, Rock & Ice
1 The road South
2 Salzwelten Mattsee
Straßwalchen
3 Keltenmuseum Mattsee
4 Gasthof Pass-Lueg-Hohe Neumarkt
5 Eisriesenwelt Obertrum
6 Hohenwerfen Fortress Wallersee
Irrsee
Seekirchen Henndorf
Kasten
Saaldorf
Eugendorf
Hallwang Mondsee
Bergheim A1
Freilassing E55 E60
Thalgau
1 Plainfeld Mondsee
20 Fuschlsee
Salzburg Airport Ebenau
W.A. Mozart Salzburg Fuschl
A8 Glasenbach
E52 E60 St. Gilgen
Vordersee
Anif Wiestalstausee
Reichenhall Oberasch 1521m
Niederalm
Großgmain 1 AUSTRIA
Salzach
Hintersee
Marktschellenberg Adnet
Hallein O Hoher
S
20 TE Zinken
Winkl 2 3 RH
Vigaun OR 1764m
NG
RU
Kuchl
GERMANY
305
Golling Pichl
Watzmann Königssee 4
3
2713m Oberscheffau
Königssee
Abtenau
NATIONALPARK
GEBI
5 RGE
E
Salet Obersee E55

G
IR
6 Bleikogel
B
G
S N 2412m
TE E A10
IN G Werfen
ER A
NE H
S M
EER 159
0 5 mi
Hochkönig
Hinterthal 2940m 0 5 km
Previous page: Wolfgangsee.
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143
Salt, Rock & Ice

his day out provides an overview of what the Salzburg
region is all about, heading deep down into a salt mine and
way up to a mountaintop castle, all within classic Alpine scenery. This
is a great day for children, a roller-coaster ride of experiences. And all
walchen of it is an easy drive from Salzburg, whether you have a car or take a
private taxi tour. START: South down the A10 Tauern-Autobahn.
e
1 The road South. The drive is a You’ll take two wooden slides (once
rather beautiful one. You’re quickly used by miners hurrying to work), and
Kasten clear of the city and you pass the a barge across a salt lake, all the while
craggy point of the Untersberg with an English-speaking guide, plus
(p 84) off to the right, surging up various film shows. For my children,
ndsee from the flat surroundings. The the slides (one around 46m/150
valley passes between ft.) that once rushed miners
gradually rising moun- to work were a highlight
Mondsee
tains and follows the of their time in Salzburg.
see River Salzach until you Outside is a recon-
reach the town of Hal- structed village, on the
Fuschl
lein. @ 30 min. same ticket, while
St. Gilgen entry here also gets
Entering Hallein, fol-
you into the Keltenmu-
low signs to Salzwelten.
Zwölferhorn seum (3) in Hallein, 5
1521m After crossing the rail
minutes down the mountain.
line, turn right at the round- Sign in Hallein’s
about, which takes you
@ 11⁄2 hr. Ramsaustrasse 3,
intersee Salzwelten. Bad Dürrnberg. y 06132/
across the river before a
2008511. www.salzwelten.at.
Hoher sharp right onto Durnberg-Lan-
Entry only on a tour. Admission 17€
Zinken destrasse, which passes Salzwelten
1764m
adults, 10€ children 15 and under, 8€
5 minutes up the mountain road.
children 6 and under. Daily Apr–Oct
GR
UPP
E 2 ★★★ = Salzwelten. A hole regular tours 9am–5pm, Nov–Mar
in the mountain that’s fun for all the hourly 10am–3pm.
family. The experience starts when
Retrace your steps, but just before
you put on a protective suit and con-
crossing the river, turn right onto
Pichl tinues on a train ride along a narrow
Brauerstrasse, then immediately
tunnel. You’ll creep along paths going
rscheffau left onto Colloredostrasse, and the
back hundreds of years in a salt mine
museum is on your left.
that only ceased production in 1989.
btenau
EBIR
GE
A Land for Children
kogel
12m
The SalzburgerLand is an ideal place to combine with the city if
you have a family. The area has around 25 hotels dedicated to fami-
lies, many with pools and playgrounds, as well as a number of
farms that offer a true countryside experience. The latter work
together (www.salzburg.farmholidays.com) and give youngsters
the chance to get involved with animals, try out many kinds of
adventure, and eat farm-fresh produce.
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144
SalzburgerLand Card
What the Salzburg Card (p 165) does for the city, this does for
the whole region. The SalzburgerLand Card includes admission to
almost 200 sights and attractions across the area, from mountain
lifts to mines, trains to lake cruises. The card costs 43€ for 6 days
(and just 52€ for 12 days) with children half price. It also includes
entry to most of Salzburg’s attractions for a 24-hour period. www.
salzburgerlandcard.com. See p 165 for more details. Salzburger-
Land Tourism (y 0662/668866, www.salzburgerland.com) also
has details of what to do and where to go in the region.
3 Keltenmuseum. In the middle the old road a short distance up

of Hallein, this modern museum tells the Pass-Lueg-Hohe.
the history of the Celts who made
their fortunes hundreds of years ago
mining salt from the mountains. It 4 Gasthof Pass-Lueg-Hohe.
Stop for lunch at this delightful hotel
occupies Hallein’s largest non-reli-
and restaurant on Pass Lueg, a little
gious building, what was for several
road bypassed by a tunnel near the
centuries the HQ of the ‘Salina’ plant
A10 Tauern-Autobahn. Nestled in
including salt-drying rooms. The styl-
the mountains are views of mighty
ish, fascinating exhibits, with English
peaks almost close enough to touch
explanations, also detail how salt
from the picture windows and ter-
was mined. @ 30 min. Pflegerplatz
race. The menu is full of local pro-
5, Hallein. y 06245/80783. www.
duce including mountain fish as well
keltenmuseum.at. Admission 6€
as seasonal specialties such as
adults, 2.50€ children 19 and under,
asparagus (soup, risotto) in spring.
free 6 and under. Daily 9am–5pm.
The Tauernradweg cycle path
Head south on the autobahn for passes the door. y 06244/4280.
a few minutes, take the Golling www.pass-lueg-hoehe.com. $$.
exit, then turn right and follow
Hohenwerfen Fortress dominates the surrounding area.
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145
Salt, Rock & Ice

Birds of prey display at Hohenwerfen Fortress.
Follow the pass, the B159, which roofs flow down the ridgeline in
soon dips under the autobahn fairy-tale fashion. You can hike up,
and parallels it south for 10 but a new funicular (so steep it’s
minutes before you pass the almost an elevator) is easier, and
Hohenwerfen Fortress car park, included in the admission price.
from where a shuttle bus runs to There are fabulous views up and
Eisriesenwelt along the road. down the valley and the whole place
has the feel of an adventure play-
5 ★★ = Eisriesenwelt. It
ground with steep paths, steep
brags of being the world’s biggest
lawns, and steep steps. Get here for
ice cave and who could doubt it.
11am or 3pm when there’s a free
You get to walk almost 1.5km (1
falconry demonstration (there are
mile) through huge caverns where a
more in high summer) featuring
sea of ice (which partially melts in
eagles and vultures the size of Spit-
summer) drifts and creates strange
fires. @ 1hr. y 06468/7603. www.
formations—and it’s not hard to
salzburg-burgen.at. Admission 14€
believe that there are another
adults, 7.50€ children 15 and under.
40km (25 miles) beyond the bound-
10.50/5.50€ without elevator. Daily
aries of the guided tour. There’s no
Apr–Oct 9am–4pm; May, June, Sept
electric light, just hand-held lamps.
5pm; July, Aug 6pm; closed Mon Apr.
The whole place is an adventure
with a 20-minute walk (it’s not ideal The view from Hohenwerfen Fortress.
for younger children) from the car
park, a cable car ride, then another
walk before the 70-minute tour.
@ 1 ⁄ –2 hr. Wimstrasse 24, Werfen.
1
2
y 06468/5248. www.eisriesenwelt.
at. Admission 19€ adults, 9.50€ chil-
dren 14 and under. Daily May–Oct
9am, last tour at 3:30pm (4:30pm
July–Aug).
6 ★★ = Hohenwerfen For-
tress. A mountaintop castle that
has 900 years of history, yet which
is best known as the setting of the
classic war movie Where Eagles
Dare starring Clint Eastwood and
Richard Burton. The massive stone
walls and circular turrets with pointy
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146
Salzkammergut
Lamprechtshausen
1 Franke
Mattsee Straßwalchen
Mattsee
Neumarkt
Oberndorf
Obertrum
Wallersee Irrsee
Seekirchen Henndorf
Kasten
Saaldorf 9
3
am
Eugendorf 3
11
Hallwang Mondsee
Bergheim A1 10
Freilassing E55 E60
Thalgau Sto
1 Plainfeld Mondsee
8
Fuschlsee
20
1 Scharfling
Salzburg Airport Ebenau
W.A. Mozart Salzburg Fuschl
A8 Glasenbach
E52 E60 St. Gilgen
2
Vordersee
Anif Wiestalstausee
Reichenhall Oberasch S
1521m
Niederalm Wolfgangsee
Großgmain AUSTRIA
Salzach
Hintersee
Marktschellenberg Adnet
Hallein O Hoher
20 S
TE Zinken
Winkl RH
Vigaun OR 1764m
NG
RU
Kuchl
305
GERMANY
Golling Pichl
Watzmann Königssee
2713m Oberscheffau
Königssee
Leitenh
Abtenau
NATIONALPARK
GEBI
RGE
E
Salet Obersee E55

Lam
G
IR
Bleikogel
B
S
G
TE N 2412m Lungötz
IN E A10
ER G Werfen
A
NE H
S M
EER 159
Fi
0 5 mi
Bischofshofen
0 5 km 99 Eben
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147
Salzkammergut
Völklabruck
Frankenmarkt 1 E55 E60
A1
145 Laakirchen
Seewalchen
Schörfling
Attersee Gmunden
Almünster
n Nußdorf
am Attersee
Attersee
dsee 7
Traunsee
Traunkirchen
Stockwinkl Steinbach
Mondsee am Attersee
Scharfling Ebensee
Höllen Gebirge
Fuschl Burgau 1862m Steinberg
. Gilgen 4
3 1458m
Leonsberg Langweis
e 1745m 145
wölferhorn SAL Offensee
St. Wolfgang ZKA
1521m 3 MM
ER
Wolfgangsee GU
Strobl T
ntersee 158 5 Bad Ischl
Rettenbachalm
Hoher
Zinken Laufen
1764m
GR Altaussee
UPP See
E
Altaussee Grundlsee
Bad Goisern
145
Bad
Gosau Aussee
Pichl Hallstätter
155 See
cheffau Airport
6 Obertraun
Leitenhaus
tenau 1 Fuschlsee
Lahn 2 St. Gilgen
162
BIRG Krippenstein 3 St. Wolfgang
E 2109m
Lammertal 4 Schafbergspitze
ogel Hoher Dachstein
2995m 5 Bad Ischl
2m Lungötz
DA 6 Salzwelten Hallstatt
CHS
TEINGR 7 Attersee
UPPE
8 Mondsee
Filzmoos
9 Cafe-Restaurant Fisherman’s
10 Mondsee town
Eben Mandling Kulm 11 Konditorei Frauenschuh
14_721193-ch10.indd 147 4/21/10 9:57 PM

148
T
his is Salzburg’s lake district, only a half-hour drive yet a
different world. It’s a place that has long been wealthy through
the salt mined here. The name means ‘Estate of the Salt Chamber’
and comes from the Imperial Salt Chamber, the authority that ran
the salt mines during the Habsburg Empire between the 15th and
18th centuries. START: East along Schallmooser Hauptstrasse.
St. Gilgen and Wolfgangsee.
Keep going along the B158 for

TRAVEL TIP 14km (8 miles) to:
It is possible to get the no. 150 bus
from Salzburg to Fuschl, St. Gilgen,
2★ = St. Gilgen. After emerg-
ing from the hilltop forest, you’ll be
and Bad Ischl, and then the no. 356 wowed by one of Austria’s great
from St. Gilgen to Mondsee, but the views, looking down on the village of
tour really only works with a car. St. Gilgen with Lake Wolfgang
(Wolfgangsee) stretching out before
Along Schallmooser Hauptstrasse, you, surrounded by hazy peaks. The
take a right onto Minnesheim- village is a popular year-round holi-
strasse, which twists back on day spot and you can sun yourself on
itself for a moment as it climbs the promenade, take a variety of boat
(offering a brief but beautiful trips, or ride the small cable car up
cityscape). This road, the B158, the Zwölferhorn. St. Gilgen was the
takes you straight to the lake. home of Mozart’s mother, Anna Pertl,
and the house where she was born is
1 ★ Fuschlsee. Drive along the the Mozart Haus St. Gilgen, a small
length of the lake, about 6km (4 museum devoted to the composer’s
miles), then drop down into the vil- life. There are also walks up into the
lage of Fuschl. It’s a pretty place for hills. @ 1 hr. y 06138/8003. www.
a short stroll, or you can head off wolfgangsee.at. Cable car: Raiffeisen-
along the lakeside path for a longer strasse. y 06227/2350. www.12er
hike. @ 30 min. y 06626/83840. horn.at. Daily 8am–6pm. Return tick-
www.fuschlseeregion.com. ets 19€ adults, 13.50€ children 16
and under. Mozart Haus St. Gilgen:
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149
Ischlerstrasse 15. y 06227/2348.
Salzkammergut
www.mozartdorf.at. June–Sept Tues– although I’d suggest you go for a cof-
Sun 10am–noon, 3–5pm. Admission fee on the terrace (taking a sweater
4€ adults, 2.50€ children 18 and as it’s a breezy spot). Ried 23, St.
under, free 5 and under. Wolfgang. y 06138/3542. www.
schafberg.net. $$.
Follow the B158 down to the end
of the lake then round to the other
side, around 18km (12 miles). Drive another 13km (8 miles) east
along the B168 until you get to:
3 ★★ = St. Wolfgang. On the
other side of the lake you’ll find the 5 ★★ Bad Ischl. This small town
village of St. Wolfgang, a bustling, was a royals’ spa resort in the days
touristy hub although beautiful with of the Austro-Hungarian empire.
it. There are lots of quaint buildings Here is the Kaiservilla, summer resi-
and the ornate, lakeside Church of dence of Emperor Franz Josef. It is
St. Wolfgang, with its large gilded open daily for tours, which also
carved altar. A must-do attraction is include the English-Elizabethan-style
the SchafbergBahn, a cog steam cottage in the park the Emperor had
train which clacks up to the peak of built for his Empress Sissi. Sissi’s pri-
the 1,783m (5,800 ft.) Schafberg, a vate swimming pool is now open
dizzying, jagged ridge with views of under the name Bad Ischl Parkbad,
Wolfgangsee in one direction, Atter- expanded with slide, whitewater
see in the other. @ 3 hr. y 06138/ canal, and children’s pool. The small
8003. www.wolfgangsee.at. Schaf- town has narrow streets and smart,
bergBahn: Markt 35. y 06138/2232. yellow-painted buildings. @ 11⁄2–2 hr.
www.schafbergbahn.at. Daily May– y 06132/277570. www.badischl.
Oct 9:15am–5pm. Return tickets com. Kaiservilla: Jainzen 38.
28.60€ adults, 14.30€ children 14 y 06132/23241. www.kaiservilla.at.
and under, free 5 and under. Daily Apr–Oct, varying times between
9:30am and 5pm, and Advent week-
ends 10am–4pm. Admission 4.50€
4 Schafbergspitze. At the pinna- adults, 3.50€ children 16 and under,
cle of the Schafberg, this ludicrously free 6 and under. Parkbad: Emperor
sited hotel and restaurant has never- Franz-Josef-Strasse 19. y 06132/
theless been a success since 1862. 26991. Daily May–Sept 9am–7pm.
The dark, traditional restaurant fea- Admission varies on facilities used
tures traditional Austrian dishes, between 1.50€ and 5€.
Boat trips on the Wolfgangsee.
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150
SchafbergBahn.
Drive south along the B145 for an extra hour if you’re planning a
around 12km (7 miles), turning visit. @ 11⁄2–2 hr. Hallstatt: Salt Berg-
right to follow the western side strasse 1. y 06132/277570. www.
of Hallstättersee, the same dis- salzwelten.at. Admission 15€ adults,
tance again until you reach: 10€ children 15 and under, 8€ chil-
dren 6 and under. Tours 9:30am–
6 ★★ Salzwelten Hallstatt. This
3/3:30/4pm, late Mar–late Oct:
is a Salzwelten attraction linked to
Altaussee: Lights Berg 25. y 06132/
Salzwelten Hallein (p. 143, 2), which
2002400. Admission 14€ adults,
involves tours with hard hats and
8.50€ children 15 and under, 7€ chil-
lamps, deep inside the mountain,
dren 6 and under. Tours 9am–3/4pm,
showing traces of 7,000 years of salt
late Mar–late Oct.
mining including wall markings and
what is believed to be the oldest From Hallstatt, head north on the
staircase in the world. About the A145 for 16km (10 miles), passing
same distance from Bad Ischl (just Bad Ischl then turning left onto
keep on the B145 rather than turning the A153 at Mitterweissenbach.
right) is Salzwelten Altaussee, From here, it’s 11km (8 miles) to:
which also involves an underground 7 = Attersee. This is the big-
tour, past glistening, salt-packed rock
gest lake in the area, 20km (12 miles)
walls and down to a subterranean
long and 4km (2 miles) wide. There
lake. These, of course, involve at least
are beaches and parking spots, while
the main village, Attersee, is at the
The Schafbergspitze tops the breath-
taking Schafberg.
other end of the lake. @ 30 min.
As you reach the lake, turn left
onto the B152 for an 8-km (5-mile)
lakeside drive. Turn left onto the
A151 for 3km (2 miles) and you
reach:
8★ = Mondsee. Another of
the region’s major and most pictur-
esque lakes. You emerge on the
north bank and the road hugs the
shore for most of the way, around
11km (8 miles), to the pretty, lively
resort town of Mondsee at the far
tip. Start by the lakefront (near
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151
Salzkammergut
where there is a car park) with its
breathtaking views of lapping water
surrounded by peaks. There’s a park
that runs along the water’s edge
with jetties to walk out on and
plenty of grass to lie down on as
well as an adventure playground,
cafe, and restaurant. @ 1 hr.
9 Cafe-Restaurant Fisher-
man’s. This is a glorious place for
lunch with its south-facing, railed
The ancient gates at the Salzwelten
waterfront terrace—you could
Hallstatt.
almost be adrift on a boat. The
place concentrates on fish, particu-
larly those from the lake as well as
the mountain rivers. Robert-Baum-
! Konditorei Frauenschuh.
This busy, classic Austrian cafe and
Promenade 1, Mondsee. y 06232/ cake emporium on the town square
36479. www.fishermans.at. $$. is just along from the church. This is
touted as having the country’s best
apple strudel, and it’s certainly
0 ★★ Mondsee town. A
good, especially with the rich vanilla
treelined avenue, the haunt of happy
sauce. Tour parties fill the place out,
cyclists, leads away from the lake for
but you should find a seat for a late
a short stroll into the middle of
afternoon rest, a perfect way to end
Mondsee. This is an upmarket town
the day. Marktplatz 8, Mondsee.
of smart hotels and cake shops, the
y 06232/2312. www.konditorei-
stylishness countered only slightly by
frauenschuh.at. $$.
an abundance of souvenir stalls and
The Sound of Music coach parties.
Most tourists come here for The From Mondsee, there are many
Sound of Music connections—the routes back to Salzburg through
ornate Church of St. Michael with the countryside but the A1 auto-
its twin towers was the setting for bahn runs nearby and takes you
the wedding of Maria and Captain straight back to the city in less
von Trapp. @ 11⁄2 hr. y 06132/ than half an hour.
26909. www.mondsee.at.
Salzkammergut Adventure Card

Even if you’re only planning to visit a couple of attractions, the
Salzkammergut Card generally involves a saving. It gives up to 30%
off public transport including lake ferries, mountain railways, and
lifts, along with salt mines, ice caves, scenic roads, nature parks,
museums, swimming, and other activities. The card costs 4.90€ a
day; there’s no card for children 15 and under, who simply benefit
from child rates. The card is available from tourist offices, shops,
and hotels. See www.salzkammergut.at for details.
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152
Berchtesgaden
Schloss
20 Salzburg Mirabell
Fe
Aufham Ho
Salzburg Airport
W.A. Mozart Hangar-7
E52
Piding A1
E60 A8
Schloss
Mauthausen Stieglbrauerei Hellbrunn
Salz
Tier
Weißbach Anif
Bad
Reichenhall
Niederalm
Großgmain
Kirchberg
Saalachsee
UNTERSBERG
Markts
20 Berchtesgaener
Unterjettenberg Hochthron
1972m
305
Winkl
Loipl
Bischofswiesen
1
Bischofswiesen
GERMANY Berchtesgaden 2
Obersalzb
Strub
Antenbichl Engedey
Au 4
Hintersee
305 5
20
Hintersee Ramsau bei
Berchtesgaden
6 Königssee
Watzmann
2713m
Königssee
NATIONALPARK
BERCHTESGADEN
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153
Berchtesgaden
Schloss
Salzburg Mirabell 0 3 mi
Festung
Hohensalzburg 0 3 km
Ebenau
Hangar-7
150 Place of Interest
Glassenbach Airport
Schloss
erei Hellbrunn Vordersee
Salzburger
Tiergarten
Anif Wiestalstausee Hintersee
Oberasch
Niederalm
AUSTRIA
Salzach
159
RG Adnet
Marktschellenberg
Hallein
ener 305
on
A10
Vigaun
esen E55
n 3 Obersalzberg
Kuchl
4 4
5 5 159
162
önigssee Golling
1 Almbach Gorge
2 Berchtesgaden
3 Obersalzberg
Documentation Center
4 Eagle’s Nest
5 Kehlsteinhaus
6 Königssee
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154
J
ust across the border in Germany you’ll find stirring Alpine
scenery and one of the most important surviving relics of the
Third Reich, the Eagle’s Nest. You can combine 20th-century history
with timeless beauty, all set around the picturesque Bavarian town
of Berchtesgaden. START: Alpenstrasse.
Head south on this main road 9670. www.berchtesgadener-land.

which passes under the A10 info. Admission 2.50€ adults, 1.30€
autobahn, past St. Leonhard and children 18 and under. Daily May–
the Untersberg cable car, all the Oct 7:30am–7pm.
way, as the B305, to Berchtes-
Leaving the gorge, it is only
gaden, around 24km (15 miles).
about 1.5km (1 mile) into:
1 ★★ = Almbach Gorge.
2 ★ Berchtesgaden. This pretty
The entrance to this hidden wonder-
Bavarian town is on the other side of
land is the car park by the Kugel-
the mountains from the town of Hal-
mühle Inn and Marble Mill outside
lein and shares an age-old interest in
Berchtesgaden on the road from
salt mining. It’s the heart of Ber-
Salzburg. A path leads through the
chtesgaden National Park and
imposing gorge and takes you, via
offers countless opportunities for
wooden bridges and even a tunnel
hiking and biking. The imposing
through the rock, past crashing
Royal Palace is still home to descen-
waterfalls and swirling pools. As the
dants of Bavarian royalty and com-
gorge opens out there’s a path
bines Romanesque cloisters with a
through the woods to the church of
stunning Gothic hall, Biedermeier,
Ettenberg with its historic frescoes,
and baroque styles across the centu-
and cafe next door. The hike takes
ries. Don’t miss the hunting halls
you steeply upward to a point
filled with their trophies and guns,
where you can turn back (around
and the rose gardens with their views.
an 80-minute round trip) or you can
The Grassl Schnapps Distillery is
carry on to Ettenberg (around 2 hr
the oldest in Germany and gives free
20 min return). Longer hikes take
tours and tastings. @ 1 hr. y 08652/
you all the way to the town of Ber-
9670. www.berchtesgadener-land.info.
chtesgaden. @ 2–3 hr. y 08652/
Berchtesgaden and Mt Watzmann.
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155
Berchtesgaden
Bird’s eye view of the Eagle’s Nest.
Royal Palace: Schlossplatz 2. Nest buses. It tells the chilling tale of

y 08652/947980. www.berchtes the Nazi regime and World War II
gadener-land.info. Mid-May–mid-Oct but also gets you into the vast, eerie
Sun–Fri, 10am–1pm, 2–5pm; Mon– expanse of the underground bunker
Fri 11am–2pm. Admission 7€ adults, system. @ 1 hr. Obersalzberg-
3€ children 17 and under. Grassl strasse, Berchtesgaden. y 08652/
Schnapps Distillery: Salzburger- 947960. www.obersalzberg.de.
strasse 105. y 08652/95360. www. Admission 3€ adults, children free.
berchtesgadener-land.info. May–Oct Apr–Oct, daily 9am–5pm; Nov–Mar
Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm; Tues–Sun 10am–3pm.
Nov–Apr Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–
Buses from the Center car park
4pm. Free admission.
are the only way up (apart from
From town you can get a bus to walking) to:
the Obersalzberg Documentation
4 ★ Eagle’s Nest. The bizarre
Center. By car, it is about 2km
side of Nazi Germany. This lofty
(1.5 miles) from the B305 (now
retreat was Hitler’s 50th birthday
Berkwerkstrasse). Take the B319
present, masterminded by his right-
Salzbergstrasse across the river
hand man, Martin Bormann, who
and you pass the Center as you
really should have known about the
go up the hill.
Führer’s dislike of heights. The
3 ★★★ Obersalzberg Docu- house, at 1,834m (6,017 ft.), was a
mentation Center. The mountain monumental statement, with a mar-
village of Obersalzberg, a holiday ble-lined tunnel leading from the car
retreat since the 1900s, is where park to an elevator with brass fit-
Adolf Hitler renovated a house to tings rising several hundred feet
live in and where he had his south- through the rock of the Kehlstein
ern HQ, but pretty much anything mountain, stopping within the
that wasn’t obliterated by Allied safety of the 1-m (3-ft.) thick walls.
bombs was torn down after the war. Incredibly, it escaped Allied bomb-
This smart museum (which opened ing and these features are still
in 1999, part of Germany’s Institute there. The road especially built from
of Contemporary History) sits on the Obersalzberg was just as much a
foundations of a former Nazi guest- feat of engineering. It’s now closed
house, near the car park for Eagle’s to public traffic and the only way to
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156
(one way) 3€ adults, 1.50€ children
14 and under.
5 Kehlsteinhaus. The restaurant

in the Eagle’s Nest building is far
from the iconic destination one
might expect, but the setting of the
granite-walled Grand Hall with its
beams and chandeliers is worth a
stop. The food is traditional Bavar-
ian—sausages, sauerkraut, and
schnitzel (the breadcrumbed and
fried veal or pork dish)—and there’s
a terrace with phenomenal views
if you just fancy a coffee or beer.
y 08652/61244. $$.
Drive back into town and take the

B20 south 6km (4 miles) to:
A boat trip on Königssee. 6 ★ Königssee. Germany’s high-

est lake (603m/1,978 ft.) is only a
visit is by a special bus from the short drive from Berchtesgaden, in
Documentation Center car park, Berchtesgadener National Park. It is
unless you fancy a 2- to 3-hour hike. 7.7km (5 miles) long, 190m (623 ft.)
The building has been a restaurant deep and framed by peaks such as
since 1952. @ 2–3 hr. y 08652/ Mt. Watzmann, the second highest
9670. www.eagles-nest.de. Buses in Bavaria. The best place to access
from Obersalzberg Documentation it is the little town of Schönau,
Center. y 08652/2029. www. where there are electric boat rides
berchtesgadener-land.info. Bus across the incredibly clean waters
15€ adults, 8.50€ children 14 to pretty St. Bartholomä. Often the
and under. Daily mid-May–Oct. guide plays a trumpet blast so you
Obersalzberg parking 3€. Bus from can hear the echoes as you sweep
Berchtesgaden to Obersalzberg almost silently across. @ 1 hr.
Berchtesgaden Facts
Berchtesgaden is less than 24km (15 miles) from Salzburg, and
the easiest way to explore the area is to hire a car (see ‘Car Rentals,’
p 159). Alternatively, take a train from Salzburg Hauptbahnhof to
the town, a journey of around 45 minutes (departures around every
30 minutes). See www.bahn.de for details. There is also a bus (no.
840), which goes from the station as well as various spots in the
city, including Rathausplatz on the Old Town riverbank.
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Before You Go
Government Tourist Offices Festivals & Special Events
In the U.S.: 500 Fifth Avenue, Suite SPRING. Easter is a big event in Salz-
800, New York NY 10103 (y 212/ burg, one which brings together
944-6885); 11601 Wilshire Boulevard, two local high points—music and
Los Angeles, CA 90049 (y 310/ chocolate. While the shops are piled
477-3332). In Canada: 2 Bloor high with charming confections,
Street East, Suite 3330, Toronto, emotive music fills places of wor-
Ontario M4W 1A8 (y 416/967- ship, with the Easter Festival, 10
3381). In the U.K. and Ireland: days from Palm Sunday, involving
9–11 Richmond Buildings, London, bigger concerts. May 1 brings
W1D 3HF (y 020/7440-3830). In parades while Whitsun (late May–
Australia: 1st Floor, 36 Carrington early June) again unites a religious
Street, Sydney, NSW 2000 (y 02/ festival with music, the Baroque
9299-3621). Music Festival. Corpus Christi, in
the second week of June, brings
The Best Times to Go many closures.
There isn’t strictly a best time to
visit Salzburg—it depends what you SUMMER. A season that simply gears
want from it. However, this is a itself up for the Salzburg Festival,
stop-off on grand European bus the last week of July and the whole
tours, so high season is crowded. of August, when the city comes
May to September is the best time alive with the feeling of a carnival.
to experience the cafe society and Mid-August is the Feast of the
the walks, but this is also the busi- Assumption, which can close shops
est. More and more coach tours and restaurants.
arrive and then there are the Salz-
burg Festival crowds from the last FALL. Austrian National Day (Nation-
week in July until the end of alfeiertag), October 26, is the anni-
August. October can be a nice mix versary of the neutrality declaration
of weather and uncrowded streets, after World War II. November 1 is All
and the Kapuzinerberg and Mönchs- Saints Day while November 11 is
berg look beautiful as the leaves fall. St. Martin’s Day when children
By late November, Salzburg has flock from house to house collecting
turned into a fairy-tale winter city. sweets and candy, a bit like trick or
Even if the streets aren’t covered treating.
with snow, the surrounding peaks
WINTER. From Advent, the last week-
are. This is when the skiers start to
end in November, the city is alive
arrive, and plenty more people start
with Christmas—markets, music,
to arrive on short breaks for the
special events, and church services
Christmas markets. January can be
in churches. This is also the time for
a good time with bright, clear skies
Krampus and Perchten runs, a
and the city stays lively with the
Salzburg tradition. The hideous pair,
Mozart Festival at the end of the
said to dispel the evil spirits of win-
month. February to March sees
ter, dash through the streets flailing
Salzburg as a ski town, while April
with sticks and cows’ tails amid
can be snowy and wet.
Previous page: A medieval door knocker.
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Before You Go
SALZBURG’S AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURE & MONTHLY RAINFALL
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUNE
TEMP (°F) 39 43 52 55 66 72
TEMP (°C) 4 6 11 13 19 22
RAINFALL (IN.) 2.2 2 1.6 2.1 3.1 4.4
JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC
TEMP (°F) 73 75 68 57 46 39
TEMP (°C) 23 24 20 14 8 4
RAINFALL (IN.) 5.6 4.3 3.2 2.7 2.1 1.8
screaming, cheering children—any- • www.visit-salzburg.net Inde-

one hit is said to be blessed. Runs, pendent site with plenty of info
which are a riot of laughter, take to browse.
place in late afternoon and early • www.salzburg-airport.com
evening. December 8 is the Feast of Airport information along with
the Immaculate Conception, a day transport connections.
that can involve shop and restau-
rant closures.
Cellphones
World phones—or GSM (Global Sys-
The Weather tem for Mobiles)—work in Austria. If
The weather’s what it is, when it is. your cellphone is on a GSM system,
I’ve arrived in Salzburg in late May to and you have a world-capable multi-
35°C (95°F) temperatures and the fol- band phone, you can make and
lowing day it’s been cold with torren- receive calls from Austria. Just call
tial rain. And I’ve been in January your wireless operator and ask for
when I could comfortably wander ‘international roaming’ to be acti-
the streets all day, lunching on a vated. North Americans can rent a
cheese roll by the river, finishing with GSM phone before leaving home
a sunset walk on the Kapuzinerberg. from InTouch USA (y 800/872-
This is mountain weather, tempera- 7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or
mental and changeable by the min- RoadPost (y 888/290-1606 or 905/
ute. It’s often much nicer than you 272-5665; www.roadpost.com).
might imagine . . . balmy, blue-skied,
and beautiful. But it’s also often rainy Car Rentals
and dismally damp. And snow can be Driving in Austria is easy enough, but
expected any time from November if you’re simply visiting the city, you
to April. Come prepared for the won’t really need a car. If you’re stay-
worst—but expect the best. ing for a few days, though, you’ll
want to head into the beautiful sur-
Useful Websites rounding countryside and moun-
• www.austria.info The world- tains; it can be done with excursions,
wide site for the Austrian Tourist but a car gives you greater flexibility,
Board, with full information on if only for a day. A number of compa-
travel and accommodations and nies have offices here, with Avis
links to all individual areas. (y 0662/877278; www.avis.at),
• www.salzburg.info Excellent Hertz (y 0662/852086; www.hertz.
official site with regularly updated com), and Budget (y 0662/855038;
and changing information. www.budget.com) being the major
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The Savvy Traveler
names, along with Europcar Royce Phantom, Ferrari Spider, or
(y 0662/850208; www.europcar. Porsche Cayenne, there’s luxury
at) and Sixt (y 0662/856051; www. specialist Blue Box (y 0662/
sixt.com). And if you fancy a Rolls 85809010; www.blueboxrent.com).
Getting There
By Plane change) from the driver. Tickets are
Salzburg’s W.A. Mozart airport also sold at the airport news kiosk,
(Innsbrucker Bundesstrasse 95; but when I’ve been there they’ve
y 0662/8580150; www.salzburg- only had multi-tickets. The kiosk,
airport.com) is on the edge of the however, does sell the Salzburg Card
city, a 15-minute drive from the cen- (p 165) that gives free bus travel. A
ter. The airport has a daily British taxi takes around 15 minutes to the
Airways service from London Gat- city and costs around 12€.
wick, as well as Frankfurt, Dussel-
dorf, Vienna, Zurich, and major By Car
cities in Russia, Finland, and Spain, The A8 heads down from Munich in
amongst others. Germany, becoming the Tauern-
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), the Autobahn, the A10, just outside Sal-
low-cost operator, has a daily flight zburg. The Tauern-Autobahn runs
in summer with a second during the almost the length of Austria, from
ski season from London Stansted. Villach, prior to which it is the A11
However, the year-round flight, at from Slovenia. From the east the A1
the crack of dawn, can be inconve- autobahn leads to Salzburg from
nient. Flights aren’t always cheap Vienna, via Linz.
and the best prices only come to In Austria all vehicles using auto-
those who watch the website like a bahns have to display a toll sticker
hawk . . . and then there are the from the moment they cross the
notorious extra charges for luggage, border. Available from border con-
booking, and more. trol offices, a 10-day ticket is 7.50€.
easyJet (www.easyjet.com), the See www.asfinag.at for details.
other budget giant, has several
flights a week from London Gatwick. By Train
Tour operator Thomson offers rea- The central train station in the New
sonably priced charter flights twice a Town is a 20-minute walk from the
week from London Gatwick, London Old Town. There are connections
Stansted, Belfast, Birmingham, Bour- from London, the main one being the
nemouth, Bristol, Dublin, East Mid- Eurostar from St. Pancras to Paris,
lands, Glasgow, Luton, Manchester, followed by the German sleeper train
and Newcastle (www.thomson to Munich, then a 2-hour journey to
lakes.co.uk/ www.thomsonski.co.uk). Salzburg the following morning.
From the airport: Bus 2 runs There are good connections with the
every 10 minutes (20 min. on Sun- rest of Austria along with Switzerland
days and holidays) to Salzburg’s and Germany.
main station, covering many of the
city center streets, from around By Tour
5:30am to midnight. The journey A number of British companies offer
takes around 20 minutes. A single package tours to the city and sur-
ticket costs 2€ and is available (with rounding area, which can be a
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161
Getting Around
simple option if you are flying to Thomson (y 0871/971-0578; www.
London from the U.S. Leading thomsonski.co.uk). In addition to the
summer operators Thomson above, you can also search for ski
(y 0871/230-8181; www.thomson packages via the U.K. with First
lakes.co.uk), Crystal (y 0871/231- Choice (y 0871/664-0130; www.
5661; www.crystallakes.co.uk) and firstchoice-ski.co.uk) and Neilson
Inghams (y 020/8780-4444; www. (y 0845/070-3460; www.neilson.
inghams.co.uk) feature the city in co.uk). Ski packages can include
their Lakes and Mountains programs. flights, transfers, hotels, and often
For skiing, all of the above offer pack- food, sometimes for as little as 300€
ages with the following having dedi- per person all in.
cated ski websites: Crystal (y 0871/
231-2256; www.crystalski.co.uk) and
Getting Around
On Foot Tabak sign). A 24-hour ticket is 4€,
Salzburg is a small, compact city and 2€ for children.
most of the attractions are within The Salzburg Card is valid for
walking distance of each other. unlimited journeys on all buses.
Given the historic nature of the Night buses run until 12:45am on
place, many of the narrow streets Friday and Saturday, connecting
are traffic-free. For families, this is an with Lokalbahn trains departing
ideal first city-break because of the from the main station. Post Buses
ease in getting about. (tickets available from the driver)
serve the countryside.
By Bus
Salzburg’s city bus network, the By Train
Stadtbus (www.stadtbus.at), oper- The Lokalbahn, from the main sta-
ates with fine Austrian efficiency, and tion, serves areas to the north of
centers on the main bus station out- the city as well as some southern
side the Hauptbahnhof in the New spots after curving around the
Town. There are 10 bus routes and Kapuzinerberg.
eight trolley-bus routes, almost all of
which pass through the city center. By Taxi
Most make a loop—or at least part of There is a taxi rank in front of the
the loop—which takes in the New station, and taxi journeys are rea-
Town, including the Mirabell Palace sonably priced (rarely more than
and the riverbank of the Old Town. 10€), yet you don’t really need one
They run every 10 minutes during the unless you’re staying out of town.
day. You’re most likely to want to use A novel late-night option is the bus-
the buses if you’re staying near the taxi, a service serving 12 routes,
station or in one of the rural hotels on picking up at central spots on either
the outskirts and want to cut out the side of the river. Each car carries up
long stroll to the Old Town. to four people, with additional cars
Single tickets are 1.70€ if bought called if more people are waiting.
on board, 1.40€ from a ticket The service costs 3.50€ per person
machine or newsstand. Books of five and operates Sunday to Thursday,
tickets, cheaper still, are available 11:30pm to 1:30am, and 11:30pm
from tobacconists (see the Austria to 3am on Friday and Saturday.
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The Savvy Traveler
By Bike including the Original Sound of Music
Many hotels rent out bikes (generally Tour, Christmas tours, and tours of
less than 10€ a day) while others mountains, salt mines, and lakes.
have them available for free. There Salzburg Sightseeing Tours
are also rental shops at which hotels (y 0662/881616; www.salzburg-
will often be able to gain you dis- sightseeingtours.at) is the other
counts. Bike lanes and paths main operator and was the first, in
throughout the city, including the riv- 1921. Coaches with multi-lingual
erbank, make cycling safe and easy. guides offer general city and coun-
Salzburg can also be used as the tryside tours along with specialist
starting point for a number of longer tours including those on Mozart and
tours that pass along the river. The The Sound of Music. Some tours are
Tauern Cycle Path (Tauernweg) combined with walks and river trips.
runs 282km (175 miles), reaching The company’s Hop-on Hop-off
Krimml Falls in the southwest; the service is a way to combine a tour
Salzkammergut Path covers 354km with doing your own thing. Luxury
(220 miles) past 13 lakes; while coaches that call at 12 stops are
the Mozartweg takes you 450km equipped with headphones, which
(280 miles), linking Mozart-related have commentaries in seven lan-
sites. rad.salzburgerland.com is the guages. A 2-hour ticket costs 15€,
address for SalzburgerLand cycling while a 24-hour ticket is just 20€.
queries. For a 40-mile route, along Austria Guides (y 0650/
the River Salzach by bike, see 4566704; www.dididobrasil.com) is
p 80–83. an innovative service offering inde-
pendent options from simple city
By Car tours to gourmet tours and even
Assuming you don’t arrive by car, arranging group escorted Harley
there’s no need to hire one unless Davidson tours. Boss Didi Nie-
you’re planning repeated jaunts out derkofler, an Austrian-Brazilian, is an
into the countryside. There’s nowhere engaging font of knowledge about
to park for free and parking in the Salzburg and the surrounding area.
streets is generally limited to 3 hours. Bob’s Special Tours (y +43
As a tourist there is something to be 662 849511; www.bobstours.com)
said for the Altstadtgarage, a car offer personal, English-speaking
park carved from the interior of the tours by minibus, including one on
Mönchsberg, but at 2.40€ an hour The Sound of Music, in and around
it’s the cost of a tourist attraction Salzburg. Private tours can also be
(although Old Town shops and restau- arranged.
rants will stamp your ticket, giving a There are also peculiarly Aus-
3€ for 4 hours rate). It, like other car trian options such as Fräulein
parks, accepts credit cards. Compre- Maria’s Bicycle Tour (y 0650/
hensive car park information is on 3426297; www.mariasbicycletours.
www.salzburg.info. com). The 31⁄2 hour small group
tours offer easy cycling around the
By Tour sights for adults and children, and
There are various companies offer- provide bikes, helmets, and child
ing tours in Salzburg and the sur- seats. Tours leave Mirabell Square
rounding areas. at 9:30am daily, May to September,
Salzburg Panorama Tours and reach the palaces of Leopoldsk-
(y 0662/8832110; www.panorama ron and Hellbrunn through back
tours.com) is the major operator with roads and cycle paths. The cost is
a variety of tours in the city and out, 24€ for adults, 15€ for children.
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Fast Facts
Equally gentle is a horse-drawn carriages have their own websites
carriage from Residence Square, and phone numbers (www.salzburg.
but with a 50-minute ride for four info has a list), but there are usually
costing 72€ it is an expensive (and plenty waiting.
touristy) option. Various individual
Fast Facts
APARTMENT RENTALS Salzburg businesses are on skeleton staff if
Tourism (www.salzburg.info) has all not closed altogether. At restau-
the rentals you’ll ever need. There’s rants, lunch is usually from 1:30 or 2
everything from simple apartments to 4pm and dinner from 9 to
in private houses on the outskirts to 11:30pm or midnight. Major stores
city center delights with roof are open Monday through Saturday
terraces. from 9:30 or 10am to 8pm; staff at
smaller establishments, however,
AREA CODES Salzburg 0662. often still close for siesta in the mid-
afternoon, doing business from
ATMS/CASHPOINTS The easiest way
9:30am to 2pm and 4:30pm to 8 or
to get euros is at an ATM with your
8:30pm.
credit card—but remember that
credit card companies charge inter- DRINKING LAWS The minimum
est from the moment of transaction drinking age is 16, when it is possi-
even if you pay your bill as soon as ble to buy beer and wine, and be
you receive it. served in a bar or restaurant—but if
a person appears to be getting
BIKE RENTALS There are various
drunk he or she will be refused ser-
bike rental shops in Salzburg. Top
vice. The legal age for buying and
Bike Salzburg (y 0676/4767259;
drinking spirits is 18. The drink-drive
www.topbike.at) has an excellent
limit is 0.5 milligrams of alcohol per
website in English and rates of 6€
100 milliliters of blood, stricter than
for 2 hours, 15€ a day, and 45€ a
the U.S. and U.K. (0.8 per 100).
week, with a 20% Salzburg Card
discount (p 165). It has two central DRIVING See ‘Getting There.’
locations, in the Old Town by the
river on Franz-Josef-Kai by the Sta- ELECTRICITY Hotels operate on the
atsbrücke bridge, and in the New continental two-pin 220-volt AC sys-
Town by the main station. It’s also tem, but a simple plug adaptor is all
possible to book from hotels, with a that is needed to get connected.
5€ delivery charge. City Bike also
has a riverside Old Town shop on EMBASSIES & CONSULATES U.K.
Hanuschplatz (y 0810 500500; Consulate, Altermarkt 4; y 0662/
www.citybikesalzburg.at). Try also 848133. All others are in Vienna:
VELOactive (Willibald-Hauthaler- U.S. Embassy, Boltzmanngasse 16;
Strasse 10; y 0662/4355950). y 01/313-390; Canadian Embassy,
Laurenzerberg 2; y 01/531-383-
BUSINESS HOURS Banks are open 000; Australian Embassy, Mattiel-
Monday through Friday from 8:30am listrasse 2-4; y:01/506-74-0; Irish
to 2pm. Most offices are open Mon- Embassy, Rotenturmstrasse 16–18;
day through Friday from 9am to 6 or y 01/715-4246.
7pm. (In July, 8am–3pm). In August,
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The Savvy Traveler
EMERGENCIES For police dial expenses, or car rental insurance.
y 133, or for general police enqui- For more information, contact one of
ries y 0591/33550. For an ambu- the following recommended insur-
lance y 144; for fire y 122. ers: Access America (y 866/807-
3982; www.accessamerica.com);
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS For a Travel Guard International
small city Salzburg has a lively gay (y 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.
scene, focused on a small area in com); Travel Insured International
the riverside area of the New Town. (y 800/243-3174; www.travel
Diva (p 116) in Priesterhausgasse insured.com); and Travelex Insur-
and the 2-Stein (p 116) on Giselakai ance Services (y 888/457-4602;
are the main bars, while the restau- www.travelex-insurance.com). For
rants in between are the places to travel overseas, most U.S. health
eat. HOSI (the Salzburg Homosexual plans (including Medicare and Medic-
Initiative) is very active and holds a aid) do not provide coverage, and
festival four times a year at the the ones that do often require pay-
ARGEKultur arts complex (Josef- ment for services upfront. If you
Preis-Allee 16; y 0662/8487840; require additional medical insurance,
www.argekultur.at), a party that try MEDEX Assistance (y 410/453-
goes on until very late. HOSI has 6300; www.medexassist.com) or
events dates on its website (www. Travel Assistance International
hosi.or.at) but it is only in German. (y 800/821-2828; www.travel
assistance.com; for general informa-
GUIDES A good way to see Salz-
tion on services call the company’s
burg if you are on a tight schedule is
Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc.,
with a walking guide. The Salzburg
at y 800/777-8710).
Guide Service (Linzergasse 22;
For E.U. citizens, emergency
y 0662/840406; www.salzburg- health treatment is covered with the
guide.at) offers 2- to 3-hour tours.
free European Health Insurance
HOLIDAYS Holidays observed are Card (www.ehic.uk.com or www.
January 1 (New Year’s Day), January ehic.ie).
6 (Feast of the Epiphany), March/
INTERNET ACCESS Most hotels now
April (Good Friday and Easter Mon-
have Internet connections, whether
day), May 1 (Labor Day), May/June
via connection or Wi-Fi. Some
(Whit Monday), June Corpus Christi,
charge, but some are free and even
August 15 (Feast of the Assump-
offer free computer terminals in
tion), October 26 (Austria’s National
reception. Internet cafes are becom-
Day), November 1 (All Saints’ Day),
ing rarer but you can try the Cybar
December 8 (Feast of the Immacu-
(Mozartplatz 5; y 0662/844822;
late Conception), and December 25
www.cybar.at) in the Old Town or
(Christmas) and December 26 (Feast
Isis (Südtiroler Platz 1; y 0699/
of St. Stephen).
12363717) by the station.
HOSPITALS Salzburg’s main hospi-
LANGUAGE English is spoken
tal is Landeskrankenhaus, Müllner
widely, and the Austrians have no
Hauptstrasse 48 (y 0662/4482, but
problems with you not speaking
144 for an ambulance).
their language, but it is wise to take
INSURANCE Check your existing a good phrasebook such as From-
insurance policies before you buy mer’s German PhraseFinder &
travel insurance to cover trip cancel- Dictionary. For useful terms and
lation, lost luggage, medical phrases see p 170.
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Fast Facts
Salzburg & SalzburgerLand Cards
The Salzburg Card is an excellent value card, making visiting
Salzburg easy at reasonable cost. The card gives a single free entry
to 25 attractions in Salzburg, including the Hohenfestung Fortess,
Hellbrunn, a river cruise, and the Untersberg cable car. The card
gives free bus travel throughout the city. There are also discounts
on most regular concerts, coach tours, bike rental, dinner shows,
and more, along with discounts on many attractions outside Salz-
burg such as salt mines and waterfalls. The card is available from
most hotels, tourist offices, the airport newsstand, and some
shops. In high season (May–Oct) it costs 24€ for 24 hours, 32€ for
48 hours, and 37€ for 72 hours. Children are half price. See www.
salzburg.info for details.
The SalzburgerLand Card is similar to the Salzburg Card, but
useful if you’re planning a few days outside the city. It gives free
entry to almost 200 sights and attractions including spas, mountain
lifts, sports activities, and lakes. A 6-day card costs 43€, 12 days
52€ (children half price) with Salzburg city attractions covered for a
24-hour period. It is available at tourist offices, many hotels, shops,
and from www.salzburgerlandcard.com.
LEGAL AID If you have a serious office at the Hauptbahnhof open

legal problem while in Austria, you longer hours, including weekends.
should contact your embassy for
advice (see p 163). MONEY The single European cur-
rency in Austria is the euro. At
LOST PROPERTY Call credit card press time, the exchange rate was
companies the minute you discover approximately 1€ = $1.40 (or 90p).
your wallet has been lost or stolen For up-to-the minute exchange
and file a report at the police HQ on rates, check the currency converter
Alpenstrasse. Your credit card com- website www.xe.com/ucc. There
pany or insurer may require a police are various currency exchange
report number or record. The city’s offices which take credit cards as
lost property office is on the ground well as cash. At the airport there’s
floor of the Mirabell Palace (y 0662/ the Salzburger Sparkasse
80723580) and is open Monday to exchange, generally open 8am to
Thursday 7:30am to 4pm, and Friday 4pm, with an after-hours service
7:30am to 1pm. (until around 11pm) at the airport
information counter. Interchange
MAIL & POSTAGE There are a num- Austria (Mozartplatz 5; y 0662/
ber of post offices (with the sign of a 84384045) is open Monday to Friday
yellow horn and the word Postamt) 9am to 5:30pm, Saturday 9am to
in the city, including in Residenz- noon. Banks will also exchange
platz and Makartplatz. Main offices currency.
are generally open from 8am to
noon and 2pm to 6pm, Monday NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES English-
through Friday. There is a post language newspapers from both the
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166
The Savvy Traveler
U.K. and the U.S. are available at a the country code (1 for the U.S. and
number of kiosks and shops, includ- Canada, 44 for the U.K.) then the
ing the one at the Hauptbahnhof area code (omitting the first zero)
(the main station). and number. When dialing Austria
from abroad, the international dial-
PASSPORTS If your passport is lost ing code is 43.
or stolen, contact your country’s
embassy or consulate immediately. TIME Austria is in the Central Euro-
See ‘Embassies & Consulates’ pean Time zone, 1 hour ahead of
above. Make a copy of your pass- Greenwich Mean Time and 6 hours
port’s critical pages and keep it sep- ahead of Eastern Standard Time in
arate from your passport. the U.S. Summer time moves ahead
1 hour on the same dates as the
PHARMACIES Pharmacies (apo- U.K., but a few days out of sync with
thekes) operate during normal busi- the U.S.
ness hours, including Saturday
mornings, and have a rota for night TIPPING While tipping is still
and holiday cover. The location and expected in Salzburg, it is not an
phone number of the duty phar- issue to the same extent as in some
macy is posted on the door of all European destinations. Around 10%
the other pharmacies. would be normal in a restaurant
and simply rounding up in a bar or
POLICE For police dial y 133, or cafe. Tour guides and coach drivers
for general police enquiries y 0591/ expect tips and show it, in the nicest
33550. possible way.
SMOKING Austria was one of the TOILETS Here they’re signed as
smokiest places on earth (I’ve been WCs (damen for women, herren for
in smart hotels when someone has men) and there are a few around
lit up at breakfast) but things are the city, some with a .50€ charge. It
changing . . . up to a point. A law is acceptable to use the facilities in
introduced on January 1, 2009, rules restaurants and bars, but not always
that bars, pubs, and restaurants appreciated unless you place an
with several rooms must offer sepa- order.
rate non-smoking areas. But you
need to look out for signs as smaller TOUR COMPANIES A number of
establishments can choose whether companies offer escorted tours to
to be smoking or non-smoking. Austria which take in Salzburg.
TAXES If you are from outside the In the U.S.:

EU you can claim back VAT paid on American Express Vacations
most goods. A form must be (y 800/335-3342; www.american
obtained from the shop on pur- expressvacations.com).
chase, then stamped at the airport
or border. The form should be Brendan Vacations (y 800/421-
returned to the shop, which will 8446; www.brendanvacations.com).
credit the money to your account.
Collette Vacations (y 800/340-
TELEPHONES Telephone boxes are 5158; www.collettevacations.com).
a vanishing species but there are
still a few around. Post offices have Globus & Cosmos Tours (y 800/
them, with instructions in English. 338-7092; www.globusandcosmos.
To make an international call, dial com).
y 00, wait for the tone, and dial
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167
Salzburg: A Brief History

In the .U.K.: Monday to Saturday in September
Travelsphere (y 0800/567-7372; and Advent, Christmas, and New
www.travelsphere.co.uk). Year; Easter and May to June Thurs-
day to Saturday.
Archers Direct (y 0844/573-4806;
www.archersdirect.co.uk). TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES The
bulk of Salzburg’s buildings are very
Cox & Kings (y 020/7873-5000; old so access might well have been
www.coxandkings.co.uk). a problem, but the problem has
been tackled well. Salzburg Tourism
TOURIST INFORMATION The main (www.salzburg.info) has a compre-
tourist office (y 0662/88987330) is hensive brochure, Salzburg Without
on Mozartplatz. From May to Sep- Barriers, which can be downloaded
tember, plus Advent, Christmas, in PDF format (click on Service, then
and New Year, it is open daily, 9am Salzburg for . . . ). It gives full infor-
to 7pm. The rest of the year (9am to mation, including door widths, WC
6pm) it is closed Sundays. access, and height of any steps, for
There is a smaller office (y 0662/ hundreds of attractions, hotels, res-
88987340) at the Hauptbahnhof, taurants, and bars. Travel is also
open daily year-round. In high sea- taken care of, with special access on
son it is open 8:30am to 8pm, low Salzburg’s buses.
season 9am to 6pm.
A further office is at the Park & VISAS No visas are required for
Ride car park Salzburg-Süd, near U.S. or Canadian visitors to Austria
Hellbrunn (Alpensiedlung-Süd, providing your stay does not exceed
Alpenstrasse, y 0662/88987360). 90 days. British and Irish visitors
It is open daily in July to August; need no visa.
Salzburg: A Brief History

4000 B.C. Stone Age settlement on 700 Bishop Rupert von Worms
the Rainberg mountain. arrives from Bavaria as a mission-
ary and founds St. Peter’s Abbey
500 B.C. Celts invade the area and
and the Nonnberg Convent.
start to mine salt and build
fortifications. 719 Salzburg becomes a bishopric,
and is later one of the most
1ST–5TH C. B.C. The region becomes
important areas outside the
a trade hub, with salt transported
Vatican.
along the river.
755 Name Salzburg is first
15 B.C. Romans conquer the Celts
documented.
and create a town, Luvavum.
774 Irish bishop Virgil consecrates
A.D. 45 Luvavum acquires municip-
the new cathedral.
ium status, and becomes one of
the largest administrations out- 798 City becomes an archbishopric.
side Rome.
803 St. Peter’s restaurant opens.
500 Bavarian hordes drive out the
1077 Archbishop Gebhard starts
Romans and set Luvavum ablaze.
work on Hohensalzburg Fortress.
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The Savvy Traveler
1167 German Emperor Barbarossa 1731 Twenty thousand protestants
burns the city to the ground. banished from the province by
Archbishop Leopold Anton von
13TH C. Salt from Hallein brings
Firmian.
glory days of archbishops’ rule.
1756 Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
1322 Salzburg gains independence
born.
after civil war between Bavaria
and Austria. 1779–81 Mozart is organist at Salz-
burg Cathedral.
1328 Salzburg becomes an autono-
mous state. 1803 Rule of the archbishops ends
after defeat to Napoleon.
1348 Plague kills almost half the
population. 1805 Salzburg incorporated into
Austria.
1492 Stiegl brewery is founded.
1809–10 Salzburg under French rule
1495–1519 Fortress rebuilt by Arch-
after second Napoleonic defeat.
bishop Leonard von Keutschach
into the form that exists today. 1816 Salzburg becomes part of the
Austrian Habsburg Empire.
1525 Salzburg is occupied and the
fortress besieged for three 1918 Austrian republic proclaimed.
months during the Bauerkriege
1920 Salzburg Festival founded.
(Peasants’ Revolt).
1938 Austria annexed by Nazi Ger-
1578–1612 The reign of visionary
many. Book burnings are held on
Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von
Residenzplatz and persecution of
Raitenau, when the Baroque age
Jews begins.
began.
1944–45 Fifteen Allied airstrikes
1612–19 Archbishop Markus Sittikus
destroy almost half of Salzburg’s
continues Salzburg’s rebirth, and
buildings, especially around the
creates Hellbrunn Palace.
station.
1619–53 Archbishop Paris Lodron
1955 New Austrian republic
continues the work while keeping
declared.
Salzburg out of the 30 Years’ War
that devastated Europe. 1959 Restoration of the cathedral
completed.
1620–44 City fortifications built.
1964 The Sound of Music filmed.
1653 Cathedral completed by Paris
Count of Lodron. 1997 Salzburg becomes a UNESCO
World Cultural Heritage site to
1687–1709 Under the reign of
honor its unique Baroque
Johann Ernst von Thun, Salzburg
architecture.
finally completes its Baroque
makeover.
Salzburg’s Architecture
Renaissance (2nd century extraordinary engineers. Relics of
B.C.–4th century A.D.) the Roman colony of Barcino can be
The early conquerors of Spain were seen in the surviving columns of the
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169
Salzburg’s Architecture
Gothic (14th–16th century)
The more ornate style, with its
pointed arches, also made its mark
in Salzburg. The hall choir of the
Franciscan Church is a beautiful
example, the work of German mas-
ter builder Hans von Burghausen.
The earliest example is the chapel of
St. Mary in St. Peter’s Abbey, rebuilt
in Gothic fashion in 1319.
Baroque (16th–18th century)

When the Romanesque cathedral
was damaged by fire Archbishop
Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau (related
to the Pope and educated in Rome)
had a vision. He brought in Vincenza
architect Vincenzo Scamozzi to
Salzburg Cathedral. draw up plans for a new Salzburg,
which involved razing the area
Temple d’Augustus, originally part around the cathedral. The result
of the Roman forum, and gates and was a vast workforce of Italian
sections of the 3rd and 4th century stucco artists, painters, and archi-
walls that encircled the city. The fin- tects building a new life for them-
est Roman ruins are beneath Plaça selves in Salzburg creating the
del Rei, in the Museu d’Història blueprint for the cathedral that
de la Ciutat. exists today along with squares,
Mirabell Palace, and more. Wolf
Romanesque (11th–12th Dietrich’s imprisonment in a salt-
century) related dispute didn’t stop the
Salzburg, a city filled with churches work—his successor Marcus Sittikus
in traditional style, started to had a similar vision, appointing Ital-
change around now. Churches were ian Santino Solari court architect,
remodeled in the fashionable which yielded the cathedral and the
Romanesque style. The nave of the Italianate Hellbrun summer palace.
Franciscan Church is a good exam- Archbishop Johann Ernst Thun along
ple, the chunky simplicity and round with respected architect Johann
arches a rebellion against the more Bernhard Fischer von Erlach
joyous styles of earlier years. completed the picture, achieving his
Hangar-7.
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The Savvy Traveler
dream of making Salzburg the ‘Ger- Mozart to celebrate the 250th anni-
man Rome’ with buildings such as versary of Mozart’s birth in 2006.
the Collegiate Church.
Modern (21st century)
20th Century Austria has taken to stylish modern-
The Mozarteum, completed in 1914, ism in architecture with gusto, and
was built in late Munich historical generally gets it right. The Museum
style with a touch of Baroque. In of Modern Art atop the Mönchsberg
1924 what is now the Festival Halls is a simple, marbled form, which can
complex started taking shape under be appreciated from the Makartsteg
the guidance of architect Clemens footbridge with its vertical and hori-
Holzmeister. It brought together the zontal curves. But with so much his-
ageless Mönchsberg rock with a tory in the Old Town, new building is
simpler, modern approach, taking in rare and development (most of it
set designer Benno von Arendt’s very ordinary) takes place near the
Nazi-era Baroque touches. The halls station or farther out. An exception
have changed regularly, most is Hangar-7, the curved glass hom-
recently the former royal stables age to food, drink, and historic
being adapted by Wilhelm Holz- planes near the airport, the work of
bauer, one of Holzmeister’s stu- Salzburg architect Volkmar
dents, and Luxembourg architect Burgstaller.
François Valentiny as a House for
Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

Useful Words & Phrases
ENGLISH GERMAN PRONUNCIATION
Good morning Guten morgen guu-ten morgen
Good evening Guten abend guuten-abend
Good night Gute nacht goot nacht
Thank you Danke dan-ke
You’re welcome Bitte sehr bit-tuh zayr
Goodbye Auf Wiedersehen awf veed-er-shane
Please Bitte bit-tuh
Yes Ja yah
No Nein nine
Excuse me Entschuldigen Sie ent-shul-di-gen zee
Where? Wo? woah?
Where’s the toilet? Wo ist die toilette? voh ist dee
twah-let-uh?
How much? Wieviel? wee-veel?
When? Wann? one?
What? Was? woss?
Is/are there? Gibt es? gibb-et ess?
May I? Darf ich? darf-ikh
Is it near here? Ist es ganz in der nähe? Ist ez gans in der nye?
I’m sorry Es tut mir leid es toot meer lied
Do you speak English? Sprechen sie Englisch? shprekhen zee Eng-lish
Station Bahnhof ban-hof
Airport Flughafen floog-hafen
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171
Current Phrases
Useful
Next week Nächste Woche nex-tuh voh-khuh
I need Ich brauche... ikh brow-khuh
Tomorrow morning Morgen früh mor-gen fruh
Heading&1Menu Terms
Today Heute hoy-tuh
Next week Nächste Woche nex-tuh voh-khuh
This week Diese Woche dee-zuh voh-khuh
I would like… Ich möchte… ikh mersh-ta
To eat Essen ess-en
A room Ein Zimmer ain tzim-mer
For one night Für eine Nacht feer ai-neh nakht
Emergencies
It’s an emergency Es ist ein Notfall ess ist ighn noht-fahl
I’m sick Ich bin krank ikh bin krahnk
I’ll call the police Ich rufe die Polizei ikh roo-fuh dee
poh-lee-tsigh
I need your help Ich brauche deine/ ikh brow-khuh
Ihre Hilfe digh-nuh/ee-ruh
hill-fuh
I’m lost Ich habe mich verirrt ikh hah-buh mikh
fer-irt
Help! Hilfe! hill-fuh!
Restaurants
Is service included? Ist die Bedienung Ist dye bedden-ung
inbegriffen? inbe-griffen?
The check, please Die Rechnung, bitte die reck-nung, bit-tuh
Do you have a table? Haben sie einen Tisch? haben see I-nen tish?
Menu Speisekarte space-kart
Do you have…? Haben sie? haben see?
Food
Chicken Huhn hoon
Beef Rindfleisch rint-flighsh
Fish Fisch fish
Ham Schinken shink-en
Sausage Wurst vurst
Cheese Käse kay-zuh
Salad Salat zah-laht
Eggs Eier igh-er
Vegetables Gemüse guh-muu-zuh
Fruit Obst owpst
Bread Brot broht
Noodles Nudeln noo-deln
Rice Reis righzz
Beans Bohnen boh-nen
Tea Tee Tay
Coffee Kaffee kaff-ey
Juice Saft zahft
Mineral water Mineralwasser mineral-vasser
Tap water Leitungswasser ligh-toongs-vasser
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The Savvy Traveler
Meat
Cold cuts Aufschnitt owf-shnitt
Roast chicken Brathuhn braht-hoon
Grilled sausage Bratwurst braht-vurst
Hamburger/ Hamburger/ hamburger/
beefsteak Fleischleibchen flighshlaib-chen
Duck Ente en-ter
Goose Gans ganz
Poultry Geflügel ge-floo-gel
Veal Kalb kalb
Pork chops Kassler Rippchen kass-ler rip-chen
Lamb Lamm lamm
Liver Leber lay-ber
Roast beef Rinderbraten rin-der-brah-ten
Roast pork Schweinebraten shwai-ner-brah-ten
Turkey Truthahn troot-hahn
Fish
Eel Aal aahl
Trout Forelle for-ell
Pike Hecht hect
Carp Karpfen karp-fen
Crayfish Kerbs kerbs
Salmon Lachs lackhs
Mackerel Makrele mak-rel
Rhine salmon Rheinsalm rine-saahm
Haddock Schellfisch shel-feesh
Sole Seezunge see-zung-er
Vegetables
Cauliflower Blumenkohl blue-men-kohl
Beans Bohnen bohr-non
Fried potatoes Bratkartoffeln braht-kart-off-eln
Peas Erbsen erb-sehn
String beans Grüne Bohnen groo-neh bohr-non
Cucumber Gurken gurr-ken
Carrots Karotten karr-o-ten
Mashed potatoes Kartoffelnbrei karr-toff-eln-brei
Potato salad Kartoffelnsalat karr-toff-eln-sal-aht
Cabbage Kohl kohl
Beets Rote Rüben roh-ter roo-ben
Red cabbage Rotkraut roht-rowt
Lettuce Salat sal-aht
Boiled potatoes Salzkartoffeln salz-karr-toff-eln
Asparagus Spargel spar-gel
Spinach Spinat spee-naht
Tomatoes Tomaten Tom-ah-ten
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173
Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

Beverages (Getränke)
Beer Bier beer
A dark beer Ein dunkles ein dun-kuls
A light beer Ein helles ein hels
Milk Milch milsh
Chocolate Schokolade shok-oh-laa-der
A cup of coffee Eine Tasse Kaffee ein-er tass-er kaff-ey
A cup of tea Eine Tasse Tee ein-er tass-er tay
Water Wasser vass-er
Cooking Terms
Rare Blutig blue-tig
Baked Gebacken ge-back-en
Fried Gebraten ge-brah-ten
Stuffed Gefült ge-fuult
Boiled Gekocht ge-coct
Roasted Geröstet ge-rerr-stet
Well done Gut durchgebraten goot dursh-ge-
brah-ten
Hot Heiss hiyse
Cold Kaltes kal-tez
Condiments
Butter Butter butt-er
Ice Eis aiys
Vinegar Eissig aiy-sig
Dumplings Knödel nuuh-del
Pepper Pfeffer pheff-er
Rice Reis raiys
Cream Sahne sah-ner
Salt Salz salz
Mustard Senf senph
Sugar Zucker zoo-ker
Numbers
1 eins (einz)
2 zwei (z-vai)
3 drei (dry)
4 vier (veer)
5 fünf (foonf)
6 sechs (secks)
7 sieben (see-ben)
8 acht (act)
9 neun (noon)
10 zehn (zen)
11 elf (elf)
12 zwölf (z-wulf)
13 dreizehn (dry-zen)
14 vierzehn (veer-zen)
15 fünfzehn (foonf-zen)
16 sechzehn (seck-zen)
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174
Traveler
Title
Numbers
17 siebzehn (seeb-zen)
18 achtzehn (act-zen)
Chapter
19 neunzehn (noon-zen)
20 zwanzig (z-wan-zig)
The Savvy
30 dreißig (dry-zig)
40 vierzig (veer-zig)
50 fünfzig (foonf-zig)
60 sechzig (seck-zig)
70 siebzig (seeb-zig)
80 achtzig (act-zig)
90 neunzig (noon-zig)
100 hundert (hund-ert)
Days of the Week

Monday Montag
Tuesday Dienstag
Wednesday Mittwoch
Thursday Donnerstag
Friday Freitag
Saturday Samstag
Sunday Sonntag
Toll-Free Numbers &

Websites
AER LINGUS EASYJET LUFTHANSA
y 15852100 in Austria y 0900 370120 y 0810 1025 8080
y 01/886-8844 in Ireland in Austria in Austria
y 0871 718 5000 No U.S. number y 0871 945 9747
in the U.K. y 0905 821 0905 in the in the U.K.
y 800/474-7424 in the U.K. (NOT TOLL-FREE) y 800/645-3880
U.S. (NOT TOLL-FREE) www.easyjet.com in the U.S.
www.aerlingus.com FIRST CHOICE www.lufthansa.com
AUSTRIAN AIRLINES y 0871 200 7799 in U.K. THOMAS COOK
y 051766 1002 (U.K.-based call center) y 0871 895 0060
in Austria www.firstchoice.co.uk in the U.K. (U.K.-based
y 0870 1 24 26 25 KLM call center)
in the U.K. y 0820 420 414 www.thomascook.com
y 800/843-0002 in Austria
in the U.S. y 0871 222 7740
www.aua.com in the U.K.
BRITISH AIRWAYS y 800/374-7747
y 179 567 567 in Austria in the U.S.
y 0870 850 9850 www.klm.nl
in the U.K.
y 800/247-9297
in the U.S.
www.british-airways.com
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175
Index
Balloon festival, 93 Bräustübl Tavern, 63
Index
See also Accommoda-
Bärenwirt brewpub, 115
Bar Goldener Hirsch, 110,
113
Breweries, 47, 115
Brewpubs
Augustiner Bräustübl,
Barockmuseum Christmas 5–6, 110, 115, 116,
tions and Restaurant Market, 50 138
indexes, below. Bars, 113–115 Bärenwirt, 115
Afro Cafe, 113 Brauhaus Gusswerk, 115
A Baboon Bar, 110, 113 Braumeister, 106, 115
ABG (Austria Bio Garantie), Bar Goldener Hirsch, Bräustüberl, 63, 115
47 110, 113 Die Weisse, 115
Accessories, shopping for, Buro, 113 Raschhofer’s Rossbräu
74–75, 77 Cave le Robinet, 113 Herrnau, 115
Accommodations. See Chez Roland, 113 Stiegl Hell, 115
Accommodations Index Daimler’s, 113 StieglKeller, 110, 115,
Afro Cafe, 113 Living Room Bazillus, 116
Airports, 160 114 Bürgerwehr, 62
Almbach Gorge, 154 Mayday, 114 Buro bar, 113
Alpendorf, 90 O’Malley’s, 110, 114 Buses, 160, 161
Alter Markt, 4, 76 Pepe, 114 Business hours, 46, 70, 163
Amadeus Salzburg (boat), Saitensprung, 110, 114
11–12 Segabar, 114 C
Ambulance service, 164 Shamrock, 114 Cafe Konditorei Fürst, 46–47,
Animal parks, 4, 34, 56 Shrimps, 114 70, 75
Apartment rentals, 163 Steinterrasse, 6, 110, Cafes, 107. See also Restau-
Arch, in Kapuzinerberg, 65 114 rant Index
Architecture, 41–43, Stiegl Brauwelt, 47, 76, Camerata Salzburg group,
168–170 106–107, 115 123–124
ARGEkultur, 126 Threesixty, 5, 20, 110, Camping, 136
Art galleries and museums, 113–114 Capuchin Monastery (Kapuz-
38–43, 73 2-Stein, 116, 164 inerkloster), 66
Museum der Moderne Watzmann, 114–115 Car rentals, 155, 159–160,
Rupertinum, 40 Zipfer Bierhaus, 107 162
Museum of Modern Art Zwettler’s Stiftskeller, Cashpoints, 163
(Museum der Mod- 108 Casino Salzburg, 116
erne), 4, 9, 33, 40, 62, Bastion Garden, 28 Catacombs, 15
73 Beer gardens, 116 Cathedral Excavations
Residenz Gallery, 15 Beer halls, 5–6, 110, 115, Museum, 41
Salzburger Barock- 116, 138 Cave Club, 110, 116
museum, 43 Berchtesgaden, 85, 152–156 Cave le Robinet bar, 113
Salzburg Museum Berchtesgadener Hochthron Caves, 145
(Neue Residenz), lookout, 85 Cell phones, 159
41–42 Berchtesgaden National Chez Roland bar, 113
Aspekte Salzburg, 123 Park, 85, 154, 156 Children, activities for,
ATMs, 163 Bicycling 54–58
Attersee lake, 150 in Berchtesgaden dining, 106, 108, 122
Augustiner Bräustübl (beer National Park museums, 57, 87, 145
hall), 5–6, 110, 115, 116, (Bavaria), 154 outdoors, 4, 57, 58, 82,
138 bike rentals, 81, 83, 89, 126, 145, 150–
Austria Bio Garantie (ABG), 162, 163 151, 154
47 with children, 57 at Salzwelten and Salz-
Austrian Ensemble for New near River Salzach, 5, burgerLand, 143
Music, 123 80–83 Christkindlmarkt, 6, 53
Austrian National Day on Tauernradweg cycle Christmas, 6, 48–53, 50, 158
(Nationalfeiertag), 158 path, 144 Christmas Eve, 52
Birding, 85, 145 Christmas markets, 50
B Boating, 11–12, 148, 156 Church of St. Michael, 151
Baboon Bar, 110, 113 Brauhaus Gusswerk brew- Church of St. Wolfgang, 149
Bad Gastein, 89 pub, 115 Cinema, 121
Bad Hofgastein, 89 Braumeister brewpub, 106, City wall, 67
Bad Ischl, 149 115 Classical music, 4, 13,
Bad Ischl Parkbad, 149 Bräustüberl brewpub, 115 27–29, 118, 121, 122
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176
Index
Climate, 158, 159 F Gastein, 89–91
Coffee, 107 Faistenau, 95 Gay and lesbian travelers,
Collegiate Church, 124 Farms, 143 116, 164
Concerts Fashion, 74–75, 77 Geiereck, 85–86
at Christmas, 52, 53 FC Red Bull Salzburg soccer German language, 164,
classical, 4, 13, 27–29, team, 118, 126 170–174
118, 121 Felix Gate, 65 Getreidegasse, 11, 24, 50
dinner shows, 29, 37, Felsenreitschule (Rock Riding Gifts, shopping for, 76, 77
122 School), 9, 33, 43 Glacier skiing, 91, 95
and festivals, 124 Festival Halls (Festspiel- Golden Hall, 10, 123
jazz, rock and pop, 125 häuser), 9, 24, 25, 29, 43, Golden Room, 10
Consulates, 163 121 Golling, 81–82
Cross country skiing, 95, 96 Festivals, 26, 93, 123–124, Golling Waterfall, 82
Cruises, river, 11–12 158–159 Gotischer Saal, 121
Culture Days, 123 Festspielhäuser (Festival Gourmet Salzburg tour, 44–47
Currency, 165 Halls), 9, 24, 25, 29, 43, Government tourist offices,
Cybar, 164 121 158
Festung Hohensalzburg Grassl Schnapps Distillery,
D (Hohensalzburg Fortress), 154
Dachstein Glacier, 90, 95, 96 4, 6, 9, 10, 52, 61, 115, Green Market, 33, 45, 70, 77
Daimler’s bar, 113 122 Grossarltal ski area, 96
Dance clubs, 116 Festungsbahn, 61
Das Kino, 121 Filzmoos, 93 H
Day trips, 142–156 Fire service, 164 Haffner, Sigmund, 26
Berchtesgaden, Flachau, 90, 91 Hahnenkamm race, 89
152–156 Flachauwinkl-Zauchensee, Half Moon club, 116
Salt, Rock and Ice, 90 Hallein, 82
142–145 Flying Bulls, 20 Hangar-7 museum, 5, 20, 57,
Salzkammergut, Food, shopping for, 44–47, 103, 113–114
146–151 75–76 Haus der Natur (Museum of
Dialogues Festival, 121, 123 Franziskanerkirche (Francis- Natural History), 57
Die Weisse brewpub, 115 can church), 42 Hauser Kaibling, 89
Die Zauberflöte (Mozart), 25 Franziskischlössl bar, 68 Haydn, Joseph, 26, 42, 123
Dining. See Restaurant Index Franz-Josef-Kai, 81, 83 Haydn, Michael, 26
Dinner shows, 122–123 Franz-Josef Park, 58, 81 Haydn Museum, 121
Disabilities, travelers with, Friedhof St. Sebastian (St. Heimatmuseum Burg
167 Sebastian’s Cemetery), 28, Golling, 81
Diva bar, 110, 116, 164 29 Helicopter tours, 20
Dommuseum, 40–41 Frohnburg Palace, 34–35 Helios flights, 20
Don Giovanni (Mozart), 25 Full-day tours, 8–20 Hellbrunner Adventzauber,
Dorfgastein, 89 one-day, 8–13 51
Drinking laws, 163 two-day, 14–17 Hellbrunn Palace (Schloss
Driving, 160 three-day, 18–20 Hellbrunn), 4, 12, 17, 19,
Fürst, Norbert, 76 34, 51, 56, 82
E Fürst, Paul, 76 Hiking
Eagle’s Nest, 155–156 Fürstenbrunn, 87 Almbach Gorge, 154
Easter festival, 123, 158 Fuschlsee, 148 Berchtesgaden National
EC Red Bull Salzburg ice Park (Bavaria), 154
hockey team, 126 G Geiereck, 85–86
Eine kleine Nachtmusik Gardens Schellenberg Ice Cave,
(Mozart), 25, 27 Bastion Garden, 28 86
Eisarena, 126 Hellbrunn Trick Foun- Untersberg, 6
Eisriesenwelt, 145 tains, 4, 19, 56 Hintersee, 95
Electricity, 163 Kur Gardens, 13 Hochkönig ski area, 93
Embassies, 163 Mirabell Palace & Gar- Hohenhaus Tenne bar, 89
Emergency services, 164 dens (Schloss Mira- Hohensalzburg Christmas
Encounter Festival, 123–124 bell), 4, 12, 13, 34, Market, 52
Ettenburg, 154 40, 50, 51, 58, 133, Hohensalzburg Fortress
Euro, 165 140 (Festung Hohensalzburg),
Europark, 73, 75, 78, 90, 125 at Mozart Residence, 133 4, 6, 9, 10, 52, 61, 115,
Exchange rate, 165 at The Sound of Music 122
Pavilion, 34
16_721193-bindex.indd 176 4/21/10 10:00 PM

177
Index
Hohenwerfen Fortress, 145 Living Room Bazillus bar, 114 Muhlbach, 93
Hohe Tauern National Park, Lost property, 165 Müllner Kirche, 63
20, 96 Museums. See also Art gal-
Holidays, 164 M leries and museums
Holzermayr Chocolates & Magazines, 165–166 Cathedral Excavations
Confectionery, 45 Magic Flute (Mozart), 28 Museum, 41
Home goods, 73, 74 Magic Flute Lodge (Zauber- for children, 57, 87, 145
Horse Pond (Pferde- flötenhäuschen), 28 Dommuseum, 40–41
schwemme), 33, 42, 43 Mail, 165 Hangar-7 museum, 5,
HOSI (Salzburg Homosexual Maiskogel, 91 20, 57, 103, 113–114
Initiative), 164 Malls, 78 Haydn Museum, 121
Hospitals, 164 Marble Hall (Marmorsaal), 4, Heimatmuseum Burg
House for Mozart, 24, 25, 43 13, 27, 122 Golling, 81
Markets, 33, 41, 50, 53, 77–78 Johann Michael Haydn
I Marmorsaal (Marble Hall), 4, Museum, 25
Insurance, 164 13, 27, 122 Keltenmuseum, 82, 143,
Internet access, 164 Mayday bar, 114 144
Isis, 164 Medical supplies, 78 Museum der Moderne
Mines, 143, 144, 150 Rupertinum, 40, 57
Mirabell Palace & Gardens Museum of Modern Art
J (Museum der Mod-
Jagatee, 91 (Schloss Mirabell), 4, 12,
13, 27, 34, 40, 50, 51, 58, erne), 4, 9, 33, 40, 62,
Jazzclub Life, 125
122, 133, 140 73, 124
Jazz Festival, 124
Mirabellplatz Christmas Museum of Natural His-
Jazzit club, 125
Market, 50 tory (Haus der Natur),
Jewelry, 77
Mobile phones, 159 57
Johanniskirche (St. John’s
Mönchsberg, 4, 9, 35, 40, Panorama Museum, 42
Church), 66
52, 53, 58, 60–63, 66, 105 Salzburger Barockmu-
Johann Michael Haydn
Mönchsberg Path, 62, 63 seum, 43
Museum, 25
Mönchsberg Terrace, 33 Salzburg Museum
Mondsee, 17, 37, 150–151 (Neue Residenz), 11,
K Money, 165 29, 41–42, 76
Kaiservilla, 149 Salzburg Open-air
Mountain Film Festival, 124
Kanzel, 65 Museum, 87
Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus,
Kapitelplatz, 33, 41 Silent Night Museum,
5, 6, 15–17, 22–29, 42, 53,
Kaprun, 91 82–83
91, 123, 148
Kapuzinerberg, 58, 64–68 Toy Museum, 57, 58
birthplace of (Mozarts
Kapuzinerkloster (Capuchin Untersberg Museum, 87
Geburtshaus), 6, 11,
Monastery), 66 Music. See also Concerts
15, 17, 24, 27, 29, 57
Karajan, Herbert von, 42 classical, 4, 13, 27–29,
residence of (Mozart
Karajan-Platz, 42, 43 118, 121, 122
Wohnhaus), 16–17,
Kaslöchl cheese shop, 45, 46 jazz, 124, 125
27, 29, 133
Keltenmuseum, 82, 143, 144 rock and pop, 125
Mozart and Salzburg (film),
Kitzbühel, 89, 90 shopping for, 29, 78
16
Kitzsteinhorn, 90, 91, 95
Mozart Ball candy (Mozart-
Knights’ Feast, 122
kugel), 4, 45–47, 75, 76 N
Konditorei Ratzka, 46
Mozart Bridge, 27, 33 Nationalfeiertag (Austrian
Königssee, 156
Mozart Dinner Concert, 29, National Day), 158
Koppl, 95
118, 122 Neighborhood walks, 60–68
Krampus and Perchten runs,
Mozart Ensemble Salzburg, Kapuzinerberg, 64–68
53, 158, 159
123 Mönchsberg, 60–63
Kur Gardens, 13
Mozarteum, 27, 28, 35, 121, Neue Residenz, 11, 29,
124 41–42, 76
L Mozart Haus St. Gilgen, 148 Newspapers, 165–166
Lake Wolfgang (Wolfgang- Mozartkugel (Mozart Ball Nightlife, 110–116
see), 148 candy), 4, 45–47, 75, 76 bars, 113–115
Large Festival Hall, 43, 118 Mozartplatz (Mozart Square), best bets, 110
Legal aid, 165 11, 26–27 brewpubs, 115
Leogang, 90–91 Mozart Square (Mozartplatz), casinos, 116
Leopoldskron Palace, 17, 35 11, 26–27 dance clubs, 116
Linzergasse, 43 Mozart Week, 26, 28, 121, gay and lesbian bars,
Literature Festival, 124 124 116
16_721193-bindex.indd 177 4/21/10 10:00 PM

178
Index
Nonnberg Benedictine Cathedral Excavations St. Wolfgang, 149
Convent, 17, 32, 61 Museum, 41 Saitensprung bar, 110, 114
Nonntaler Hauptstrasse, 32 Church of St. Wolfgang, Salt, Rock & Ice day trip,
149 142–145
O Dommuseum, 40–41 Salzach Lake, 58
Obersalzberg Documenta- Ettenburg church, 154 Salzburg
tion Center, 155 Müllner Kirche, 63 favorite moments in,
Obertauern, 89, 90 Nonnberg Benedictine 2–6
O’Malley’s pub, 110, 114 Convent, 17, 32, 35, history of, 167–168
Opera, 25, 28, 121, 122 61 maps, 2–3
Organic Farmers’ Market, 77 Passion Chapel and Salzburg Advent Serenades,
Organic foods, 47, 77, 104 Path, 65 53
Outdoor activities, 80–96 St. John’s Church Salzburg AMREF Marathon,
River Salzach bike tour, (Johanniskirche), 66 126
80–83 St. Peter’s Abbey Salzburgarena, 125
Salzburg area skiing, (Stiftskirche St. Salzburg Card, 12, 40, 134,
92–96 Peter), 15–16, 26 144, 165
Salzburg Snow Shuttle, St. Peter’s Cemetery, Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburg
88–91 11, 15, 26, 32, 33 Dom), 5, 9, 11, 26, 27, 40,
Untersberg Mountain, St. Rupert’s Cross, 41 42
84–87 St. Sebastian’s Ceme- Salzburg Christkindlmarkt,
Oval art and music venue, 125 tery (Friedhof St. 50
Sebastian), 28, 29 Salzburg Dom (Salzburg
Salzburg Cathedral Cathedral), 5, 9, 11, 26,
P (Salzburg Dom), 5, 9, 27, 40, 42
Panorama Museum, 42
11, 26, 27 Salzburger Barockmuseum,
Parks, 4, 9, 19, 34, 37, 56,
Republic Cafe, 125 43
58, 96
Residenz Gallery, 15 Salzburger Festungkonzerte,
Passion Chapel, 65
Residenzplatz & Residenz 123
Passports, 166
Fountain, 33 Salzburger Hochthron look-
Pepe bar, 114
Richterhöhe, 62 out, 85
Performance art, 126
River cruises, 11–12 SalzburgerLand, 143, 144,
Performing arts, 118–126
River Salzach bike tour, 5, 165
cinema, 121
80–83 SalzburgerLand Card, 144,
classical and opera,
Rockhouse, 118, 125 165
121, 122
Rock music, 125 Salzburger Landestheater,
dinner shows, 122–123
Rock Riding School (Felsen- 121
festivals, 123–124
reitschule), 9, 33, 43 SalzburgerLand Tourism,
live music, 125. See
Royal Palace, 154 144
also Concerts
Salzburger Mozartsolisten,
maps, 119, 120
S 13, 27
performance, 126
Saalbach Hinterglemm Leo- Salzburger Schlosskonzerte,
spectator sports, 126
gang Ski Circus, 90–91 27, 118, 121, 122
theater, 126
St. Andrew’s, 42 Salzburger Sportswelt, 90
Pferdeschwemme (Horse
St. Bartholomä, 156 Salzburg Festival, 9, 26, 43,
Pond), 33, 42, 43
St. Blasius Church, 53 70, 78, 118, 121, 122, 124,
Pharmacies, 166
St. George’s Chapel, 52 158
Pichl, 91
St. Gilgen, 95, 148 Salzburg Homosexual Initia-
Police, 164, 166
St. John’s Church (Johanni- tive (HOSI), 164
Pop music, 125
skirche), 66 Salzburg Marionette The-
Postage, 165
St. Peter’s Abbey ater, 35–36, 118, 121
Postalm, 95
(Stiftskirche St. Peter), Salzburg Museum (Neue
15–16, 26, 40, 42, 52, 53 Residenz), 11, 29, 41–42,
R St. Peter’s Advent Concerts, 76
Raschhofer’s Rossbräu Her- Salzburg Open-air Museum,
52, 53
rnau brewpub, 115 87
St. Peter’s Cemetery, 11, 15,
Religious sites, 42 Salzburg Zoo, 56, 85
26, 32, 33, 46
accommodations at, Salzkammergut, 95,
St. Rupert’s Cross, 41
138 146–151
St. Sebastian’s Cemetery
Capuchin Monastery Salzwelten Altaussee mine,
(Friedhof St. Sebastian),
(Kapuzinerkloster), 66 150
28, 29
catacombs, 15
16_721193-bindex.indd 178 4/21/10 10:00 PM

179
Index
Salzwelten Hallein mine, The Sound of Music, Universitätsplatz, 33
143, 144, 150 30–37 University Auditorium, 124
Salzwelten Hallstatt mine, 150 Wolfgang Amadeus Untersbergbahn, 85
Schafberg (Sheep Mountain), Mozart, 22–29 Untersberg marble, 86
37 Spectator sports, 126 Untersberg Mountain, 6, 36,
SchafbergBahn train, 149 Sporer Wines & Spirits, 45 84–87, 96, 143
Schellenberg Ice Cave, 86 Sportgastein, 89 Untersberg Museum, 87
Schladming, 89, 90, 91 Sporthalle Alpenstrasse, 125
Schloss Hellbrunn (Hellbrunn Staatsbrücke, 65 V
Palace), 4, 12, 17, 19, 34, Stefan-Zweig-Weg, 66 VAT (value-added tax), 166
51, 56, 82 Steinterrasse cafe-bar, 6, Visas, 167
Schlosskonzerte, 4 110, 114 Volksgarten, 58
Schloss Mirabell (Mirabell Sternbrau brewery, 115 Vom Fass, 45
Palace & Gardens), 4, 12, Stiegl Brauwelt, 47, 76,
13, 27, 34, 40, 50, 51, 58, 106–107, 115, 124
122, 133, 140 Stiegl Hell, 115
W
Wagner, Richard, 123
Schloss Mönchstein, 63 StieglKeller brewpub, 110,
Waldbad, 58
Schönau, 156 115, 116
Walking
Segabar, 114 Stiftskirche St. Peter (St.
in Kapuzinerberg,
Shamrock bar, 114 Peter’s Abbey), 15–16, 26,
64–68
Sheep Mountain (Schafberg), 40, 42, 52, 53
in Mönchsberg, 4,
37 Summer Theater, 126
60–63
Shopping, 70–78 SV Austria Salzburg soccer
in Salzburg, 161
art and design, 73 team, 126
wallking guides, 164
at Christmas markets, Sweistein, 116
Watzmann cultbar-lounge-
50, 52, 53 Swimming, 58, 149
garden, 114–115
fashion and accesso- Szene’s Republic Theatre,
Weather, 158, 159
ries, 74–75, 77 124
Websites, useful, 42, 159,
food, 44–47, 75–76, 77,
174
104 T Whitsuntide Festival, 124
on Getreidegasse, 11 Tauern Autobahn, 143 Winterfest, 124
gifts, 76, 77 Tauernradweg cycle path, Wolfgangsee (Lake
home goods, 73, 74 144 Wolfgang), 148
jewelry, 77 Taxes, 70, 166
at malls, 78 Taxis, 161
at markets, 33, 41, 50, Telephones, 163, 166
Z
77–78 Zauberflötenhäuschen
Tennengebirge, 96
medical supplies, 78 (Magic Flute Lodge), 28
Theater, 126
music, 29, 78 Zauchensee, 89, 90, 91
Thirty Years War, 67
Shrimps bar, 114 Zell am See, 90, 91
Threesixty bar, 5, 20, 110,
Silent Night Museum, 82–83 Zipfer Bierhaus, 107
113–114
Ski Armadé, 89–91, 94 Zoos, 4, 34, 56, 85
Tickets, purchasing, 121
Skiing, 87, 89–96 Zum Mozart, 27, 70, 77
Time zones, 166
Sky Walk, 96 Zweig, Stefan, 66, 67
Tipping, 166
Smoking, 166 Zweig Villa, 66, 67
Toilets, 166
Snow Shuttle, 88–91 Zwettler’s Stiftskeller, 108
Toll-free phone numbers,
Sommerszene dance Zwölferhorn, 95, 148
174
festival, 118, 124 Tour companies, 36,
The Sound of Music (film), 4, 160–162, 166–167 Accommodations
9, 17, 30–37, 61, 121, 123, Tourist information, 167 Altstadthotel Amadeus, 132
139, 151 Toy Museum, 57, 58 Altstadthotel Stadtkrug, 132
The Sound of Music pavilion, Trains, 149, 155, 160, 161 Altstadthotel Zur Goldenen
34 Trapp family, 33 Ente, 133
The Sound of Music tours, Trapp Family Folk Music Altstadt Radisson SAS, 106,
17, 30–37, 151 Revival, 123 128, 132
Sound of Salzburg, 37, 123 Trompeterschlössl Castle, 67 Amadé Hotel Schaffenrath,
Special-interest tours, 22–58 2-Stein bar, 116, 164 133
art and architecture, Ambiente Hotel Struber, 133
38–43 Arte Vida, 128, 133
for children, 54–58
U Arthotel Blaue Gans, 128,
UNESCO World Heritage
at Christmas, 48–53 133
site, 40
gourmet food, 44–47 Austrotel Salzburg, 132, 133
Universität Mozarteum, 28
16_721193-bindex.indd 179 4/21/10 10:00 PM

180
Index
Berglandhotel, 134 Schafbergspitze, 149 Gasthause Glocke, 103
Boutiquehotel am Dom, 134 Schloss Leopoldskron, 128, Gasthof Pass-Lueg-Hohe,
Bristol, 132 139 144
Camping Kasern, 136 Schloss Mönchstein, 63, Hellbrunn Cafe, 57
Camping Nord-Sam, 136 128, 140 Hochalm, 86, 96
Camping Schloss Aigen, 136 Schwärzler Hotel Neutor, Holztrattner Bakery, 45
Castellani Parkhotel, 134 140 Hotel Hubertus, 94, 95
Christkönug Kolleg, Seminary Guesthouse, 138 Hotel Untersberg, 87
134, 138 Sheraton Salzburg, 140 Ikarus, 98, 103
Cordial Theater-Hotel, 135 Theresia, 94 Il Sole, 104
Gästehaus Steinerhof, 135 Trumer Stube, 140 Kaffeehäferl, 82
Gasthof Auerhahn, 135 Übergossene Alm, 94 Kehlsteinhaus, 156
Gasthof Pass-Lueg-Hohe, Villa Trapp, 128, 140 Konditorei Frauenschuh, 151
144 Wolf-Dietrich, 128, 140 Krimpelstätter, 104
Haus Arenberg, 135 Magazin, 98, 104–105
Hochalm, 86 Restaurants Mostschenke, 105
Hotel Bristol, 128, 135 Ährlich, 140 Mundenhamer, 105
Hotel Elefant, 135 Andreas Hofer Weinstube, Polo Lounge, 105, 135
Hotel Evido Salzburg City, 101 Purzelbaum, 105
128, 136 Auerhahn, 98, 101 Restaurant Goldener Hirsch,
Hotel Gästehaus Scheck, 136 Augustiner Bräu, 63 53, 98, 105
Hotel Gastein, 136 Augustiner Bräustübl, 98, Restaurant M32, 62, 63, 98,
Hotel Goldene Krone, 136 101 105–106
Hotel Goldener Hirsch, 136 Balkan Grill, 47, 98 Restaurant Riedenburg, 106
Hotel Hofwirt, 136 BIO Wirtshaus Hirschenwirt, Restaurant Schloss Mönch-
Hotel Hohenstauffen, 137 101 stein, 98, 106
Hotel Josefa, 137 Blaue Gans, 101 Restaurant s’Herzl, 98, 106
Hotel Mercure, 137 Brandstätter, 101 Restaurant Symphonie, 106
Hotel Ramada, 137 Braumeister brewpub, 106 Restaurant Wasserfall, 65,
Hotel Sacher, 128, 137 Bräustübl Tavern, 63 106
Hotel Schwarzes Rössl, 128, Breiteckalm, 91 Sabah’s Kebap Haus, 106
138 Café Bazar, 20, 101 St. Paul Stube, 106
Hotel Stein, 68, 114, 128, Café Fingerlos, 101 St. Peter’s Abbey Bakery, 46
138 Cafe Konditorei Fürst, 26 Schafbergspitze, 149
Hotel Untersberg, 87 Café Mozart, 24 Schnepf’’n Alm, 90
Institut St. Sebastian, 128, Cafe-Restaurant Fisherman’s, Scio’s Specereyen, 106
138 151 Stadtkrug, 107
Jedermann Design-hotel, Café Sacher, 98, 102 Sternbräu Dinner Theater, 37
128, 138 Café Tomaselli, 98, 102 Sternbräu Gastronomie
Johannes Schlössl der Cafe Wernbacher, 102 World, 98, 107
Pallottiner, 139 Carpe Diem Finest Finger- Stiegl Brauwelt, 47, 107
Krallerhof, 94 food, 98, 102 Stiftskeller St. Peter, 98, 108
NH Hotel Salzburg, 128, 132, Culinarium, 102 Torrenerhof, 81
139 Die Weisse, 102–103 Trattoria La Stella, 107
Panorama Camping Stad- Esszimmer, 103 Wilder Mann, 98, 108
blick, 136 Festungrestaurant, 98, 103 Zeppezauer House, 86
Pension Katrin, 139 Flöckner Brot restaurant, 34 Zipfer Bierhaus, 108
Pichlmayrgut, 94 Franziskischlössl, 68 Zum Mohren, 108
Sacher, 132 Gabler Brau, 103 Zwettler’s Stiftskeller, 108
Salzburg Seminary, 139
16_721193-bindex.indd 180 4/21/10 10:00 PM

181
Photo Credits
Photo Credits
Front Matter Credits: i: © Shutterstock; © Leonid Serebrennikov / Alamy; © Pictorium / Alamy
All images: © Nick Dalton with the following exceptions:
© Berchtesgadener Land Tourismus: p154-156.
© F1online digitale Bildagentur GmbH / Alamy: p94.
© Foto Herbert Raffalt: p93.
© Helge Kirchberger / Red Bull Photofiles: p113.
© Hotelstein Salzburg: p114.
© Leonid Serebrennikov / Alamy: p42.
© Ski amadé/Leo Himsl/Salburg Tourism: p89.
© Tourismus Salzburg: p50, p52, p53, p81, p82, p86, p87, p95, p98, p109, p110, p117,
p118, p124, p148, p149, p150.
© Ulrich Grill / Red Bull Photofiles: p20.
Courtesy Berglandhotel, Salzburg: p134.
Courtesy of Carpe Diem and Afro Coffee, Salzburg: p104 bottom.
Courtesy Hotelstein: p137 bottom.
Courtesy of Magazin Restaurant, Salzburg: p105.
16_721193-bindex.indd 181 4/21/10 10:00 PM

182
Notes
Notes
16_721193-bindex.indd 182 4/21/10 10:00 PM

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Salzburg day day

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4 O Br Obusline 2 Obusline 7 S-Bahn

aller Straße 508m Station

6 Line under construction Interchange station

UK £8.99 US $13.99 CAN $15.99

A John Wiley and Sons, Ltd, Publication

01_721193-ffirs.indd i 4/21/10 9:50 PM

2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 21

3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 59

4 The Best Shopping 69

5 The Great Outdoors 79

6 The Best Dining 97

02_721193-ftoc.indd ii 4/21/10 9:51 PM

8 The Best Arts & Entertainment 117

9 The Best Lodging 127

10 The Best Day Trips &

The Savvy Traveler 157

02_721193-ftoc.indd iii 4/21/10 9:51 PM

03_721193-flast.indd iv 4/21/10 9:51 PM

Hoping to follow in the footsteps of Mozart, listening to exquisite

Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion

Kelly Regan, Editorial Director

03_721193-flast.indd v 4/21/10 9:51 PM

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

03_721193-flast.indd vi 4/21/10 9:51 PM

Cost Hotels Restaurants

Frommer’s Salzburg Day by Day, 1st Edition

03_721193-flast.indd vii 4/21/10 9:51 PM

04_721193-prechap01.indd 1 4/21/10 9:51 PM

10 Schloss nne tra

sef steg kai

Salzburg Mönchsberg Griesgas

Kirche Galerie Michael

Reichenhaller Straße Bürgerwehr r

Previous page: Winter view of Salzburg.

04_721193-prechap01.indd 2 4/21/10 9:51 PM

eng 5 Mirabell Palace

6 Cafe Konditorei Fürst

nne ße 7 Salzburg Cathedral

odr rth pts 8 Threesixty, Hangar-7

is-L Loreto Vie Hau

Bus- St. Sebastians-

Kirche 12 Mozart’s Birthplace

akartplatz 15 Hohensalzburg Fortress

platz Information Dr-Franz-

- Residenz- 6 St. Mozartplatz Rehrl-

St. Peter Herrengasse gass He a

St. Ehrentraud- Str

04_721193-prechap01.indd 3 4/21/10 9:51 PM

1 Walking the Mönchsberg. One 3 Singing The Sound of Music

04_721193-prechap01.indd 4 4/21/10 9:51 PM

7 Being amazed at the Dom. The

The alleys off Getreidegasse are full of temptations.

04_721193-prechap01.indd 5 4/21/10 9:51 PM

chicken, cured fish to enormous gaily-lit and decorated streets. Even

04_721193-prechap01.indd 6 4/21/10 9:51 PM

05_721193-ch01.indd 7 4/21/10 9:52 PM

aß e Adolf- Post Office

garten St. Sebastians-

Universität St. Sebastians-

Markuskirche me rzs Mozart-